Flying Thai - The End

Wednesday 6th November – Mini Bus to Vientiane

Vang Vieng is certainly a destination that needs a few days to explore all it has to offer. Forget all the hype about it being a prime backpacker destination as there are plenty of activities for us oldies. Just chilling out and taking in the views would in most cases be enough but you can also kayak, trek and go cave tubing.

Our mini bus for the 152km trip to Vientiane is due to depart at 9:00am. Generally I would opt for a large bus to avoid being cramped however the timing is right and it is only a three hour trip. There were only six passengers in the back of the van so that made it more comfortable. The scenery is fairly nondescript so the time was passed listening to music and reading. Our journey terminated at the northern bus terminal and we then transferred to a tuk tuk which took us to the AV Hotel ($US45) in the city centre.

With the trusty Lonely Planet guide and a city map we have mapped out a few recommended sites for eating, shopping, drinking and sightseeing. Prior to dinner we thought a quiet drink down by the Mekong would be in order. Along the way it was Toby’s turn to visit the pharmacy for a purchase of Imodium. I think all the Beer Lao are starting to catch up on him. When we reached the street that is adjacent to the river it was a surprise to see a night market in full swing. Toby purchased two pair of jeans for 40,000 kip (under$6) each and was extremely happy with his bounty. He may have to drop a few kilos for them to be a perfect fit. What was great about this area is the long wide promenade that stretches for kilometres beside the river. It will be interesting to see what it looks like in the light of day. There was an exercise class packed with locals all moving to rhythm of the music. I immediately thought of Alice and her passion for Zumba. We found a bar overlooking the Mekong which was popular with the locals and settled back with a couple of beers. Our stomachs were rumbling so it was time to try a Lonely Planet “our pick”, the Han Sam Euay Nong restaurant. The service and delivery was fast and the Lao food was delicious. Most of the meals on the menu were only 10,000 kip ($1.30) so I ended up ordering four dishes. I am a glutton for punishment or a bargain and could not finish everything. Luckily it was a bit of a walk back to the hotel which gave me time to digest the meal. I do believe that I am piling on the weight and would not be surprised if I am over 72kg.

Thursday 7th November – “Wat” a Day

I’m not too happy this morning as I have woken up with a headache and a sore throat. My nose is starting to run and the colour looks ominous. It will be my turn to take a trip to the pharmacy for some drugs to combat the dreaded flu symptoms. After resting up I managed to purchase some Tiffy Dey tablets which should dry up my nose and reduce the head pain. We then picked up our bicycles which will be our main mode of transportation today. At 10,000 kip ($1.30) for a one day hire it is great value. The other bonus is that Vientiane is very flat but we do have to remember the French influence by riding on the right hand side of the road.

Our Lonely Planet cycling tour took us past the Presidential Place a vast beaux-arts-style chateau which was originally built to house the French colonial governor. Our first Wat of the day was Wat Si Saket which houses thousands of tiny Buddha figures. After passing the fresh food markets we headed up to Vientiane version of the Arc Di Triomphe which is known as the Patuxai. It is a seven storey concrete construction that was commenced in the 1960’s. It was never fully completed due to the political instability of that period. The climb up was worth it as it gave us some unbeatable views of the city.

It was time for lunch so we made our way to the Le Vendome French Restaurant which offers a daily special for 22,000 kip ($3). Our seats were on the shaded patio of an old style French house. It wasn’t long before a large plate of chicken scaloppine with a mushroom cream sauce was placed before us. It was accompanied by a large serving of spaghetti which was tossed with local vegetables.  The meal was delicious and was finished off with a latte.

Next on the agenda was Wat In Paeng which is famous for the artistry displayed in the stucco relief. Nearby was Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan where a Buddhist monk invited me to have a good look at the 16th century bronze Buddha measuring 5.4 m tall and weighing several tonnes. The front facade of the temple has beautifully Lao carvings. Wat Hai Sok was next followed by our last Wat of the day, Wat Mixai. The front entrance is flanked by two nyak (guardian giants). We finished off our bicycle tour with a long ride along the Mekong riverfront.

During the late afternoon I rested up before returning our bicycles. Toby was feeling famished but the thought of eating literally turned my stomach. After a quick stroll through the night market we went in search of food. In the end I returned to the hotel, popped a couple of pills and went to bed. Toby managed to find a restaurant that served wood fired pizza.

Friday 8th November – Back to Thailand

I awoke this morning with a barking cough and a nose that was running faster than the Mekong. Some more pill popping was in order before spending some time at the breakfast area. Our check-out time is midday so I decided to stay in bed until the last minute. After storing our bags we headed off to the Le Vendome French Restaurant for another crack at their daily special. Today’s menu was a fresh salad which was followed by a filet of freshwater perch served with sticky white rice.

Toby was keen for more shopping and was lucky enough to find three reasonably nice tee shirts. For the Laos section of the trip he has spent 2.75million kip. I shudder to think how much I have spent. We are winding down the time and keeping an eye on our expenditure as we need money for the taxi we have booked to the border. The trip took about 35 minutes and cost 130,000 kip ($19). After a quick accounting exercise with my trusty abacus I have a grand total of 21,000 kip ($3) left in my hip pocket. Just enough for a bottle of water. Prior to immigration we were faced with an unexpected expense of 10,000 kip for a customs excise. Only 11,000 kip left. After clearing immigration it was time to catch a bus over the Freedom Bridge. After paying for both our bus tickets (4,000 kip each) I was left with the grand total of 3,000 kip (40 cents). Toby managed to have 8,000 kip left.

My impression of Vientiane is that it is a great place to start or finish a journey to Laos. The food choices are varied and excellent however from a sightseeing perspective it has limited attraction. Two full days is enough for the capital of Laos.

Friday 8th November continued – Nong Khai to Bangkok

After completing the relatively easy formalities at the Thailand immigration counter we boarded a tuk tuk for the short trip to the Nong Khai railway station. If you had a light pack then it is an easy undertaking to walk and save yourself $2. Train number 70 was waiting when we arrived so we should depart on time at 6:20pm. We have booked a first class sleeper which has cost 1217 baht ($41) each. It is obviously an overnight train and is due to arrive Bangkok at 6:00am.

Once we were settled in a lady presented us with a menu so that we could order our evening meal. For a 10% commission she would place the order and deliver it to our cabin. The temptation was too great so we ordered the Tom Yom soup, chicken with oyster sauce and fruit. It was duly delivered and was 200 baht well spent. I remembered that last time I travelled on a train in Thailand that the air conditioning is a good means to catch hypothermia. It is no different this time but I’m okay because of the jumper I have at my disposal.

The train is running along at a good pace with hardly a jolt or a roll. The only stops we make are the stations and they seem to be spaced at intervals of just under one hour. I’m just waiting for the guard to set up our bunks and it will be off to bed for me.

Saturday 9th November – Shopping MBK

A broken night’s sleep on the rail due to the cold and over reactive Chinese bladder has left me feeling a tad weary. The train arrived on time at 6:00am and after manhandling our luggage to the front entrance of the station we were besieged by taxi touts. I settled for a metered taxi from the rank and we were soon speeding towards our destination, the Ambassador Hotel. I had a rough idea where it was and when he continued past it I shook my head in exasperation when I realized he had absolutely no English. He tried asking for directions at another hotel but failed. I then held up my fingers to indicate that the hotel was located in soi 11. He nodded in understanding as we headed back to where we had been previously. I ended up directing him to the hotel where we happily alighted. The fare ended up being 87 baht and after I handed him 100 baht he jumped in the taxi to head off. I stuck my hand out for my change and he begrudgingly gave me a 5 baht coin. I shook my head and he ended up slapping another 5 baht into my hand. He was not a happy cabbie but I felt like I had for once had a minor victory over a taxi driver.

After settling in to our well appointed room at the Ambassador we jumped on the sky train and headed to the MBK shopping centre. Toby has a pocketful of baht and is on the hunt for some clothing bargains. Quite a few hours later he is so laden down with bounty that the plastic shopping bags are cutting off the blood supply to his fingers. He has done well with his purchases but next time I will find a quiet place to wait while he decides what colour and style suits him best.

Our agenda for this evening was to have a late dinner and a couple of drinks before retiring. I made it to bed around midnight but Toby kicked on.

Sunday 10th November – Chatuchak Market

Toby eventually rocked in at 5:00am looking a little bleary and worse for wear and tear. I on the other hand am still feeling the impacts of the flu with a congested aching head. Over a leisurely breakfast with myself as company I surfed the net and caught up with all that is important in Australian sport. Toby woke from his slumber around midday and I have decided to leave him to his own devices for the remainder of the day.

My afternoon mission is to catch the sky train to Mo Chit station and then walk to the Chatuchak market. From the train I can easily see the corrugated iron rooftops that delineate the market. I am looking for a store in section 10 on Soi 20/21 to track down a sleeping bag liner for my good neighbour Jen. This maze could have been easily constructed by Daedalus as I feel like Theseus in search of the Minotaur in the labyrinth below the Minoan Palace of Knossos on the island of Crete. Nothing like a little bit of Greek Mythology to spice up a yarn! I did manage to find the location but alas there was no store open or sleeping bag liners. There are acres of bargains under these rooftops and just about something for everyone. Towards the end of the day and with my backpack full to overflowing I spotted a foot massage stall. I sauntered over and was soon enjoying a relieving 60 minute massage for 200 baht.

One of the downsides of this trip is that I am starting to realize that the face staring back at me in the mirror is getting old. None of us really feels that we are getting older but unfortunately in three countries I have been called ‘’Pappa”. It hurts even more when I think the ones saying it are as old as me. I’m glad that Alice loves me and is partially blind.

The Soi near the Ambassador Hotel has a few old Combie Vans parked by the kerb. At night the roof opens up and they become roadside cocktail bars. They do a brisk business and would be a big hit in the Valley.

 A quiet evening near the hotel was in order tonight.

Monday 11th November – More Shopping

It is a slow start to the day as we wait for breakfast and Toby’s stomach to settle. Some more shopping has to be done at MBK before we can think about a relaxing swim by the pool. It was a balmy afternoon with high humidity which made it perfect for swimming. The hotel has a great pool with comfortable deck chairs and for Toby, Wi-Fi access. The garden has plenty of palm trees to soften the impact of concrete pavers. There is also an aviary which has a large collection of exotic parrots. The hotel has a preponderance of Indian clientele and with their cackling laugh and hairy chests they add another dimension to the wildlife scene. They also have great difficulty with English as they clearly disregard all the pool notices as well as the verbal requests from the Thai staff. It is also clear that the staff do not like their guests from the sub continent. I can picture my brother having very little patience with this type of behaviour. It is like getting the dreaded pause on the phone right on meal time which is shortly followed by a smarmy voice wanting to help you with the speed of your internet.

Tuesday 12th November – Last Day in Bangkok

Another late night for Toby which means I get to have a leisurely breakfast by myself. There is no rush as all of our shopping has been completed and our bags packed for departure. To save a few dollars we are going to attempt to catch the train to the airport. Toby’s flight departs six hours before mine so I will guide him on the first part of the train trip. The most difficult part will be lugging our bags from the hotel and then up the steep flight of stairs to Nana Station. From there we catch the sky train to Phaya Thai Station (32 baht) and then transfer by walking down the stairs and across the concourse to the Airport Rail Link (City Line). There are eight stops to the airport and the 27 minute journey cost 45 baht. If you catch the non-stop express service from Makkasan Station it will cost 150 baht and take 17 minutes.

There were no problems for Toby and within 25 minutes of leaving the hotel he was at Phaya Thai Station and on his way to the airport. The only issue with using the BTS is that when boarding at some of the stations such as Nana the trains can be quite crowded which would make it slightly more difficult. Back at the hotel I have taken refuge from boredom by occupying a lounge at poolside. The water is warm and the latest tome that I am reading is holding my attention. There is still just enough time for one last swim this evening before heading back to the room to make ready my departure. I have opted for a late check-out at 8:00pm and the 1000 baht charge for this standard of hotel seems reasonable. My flight is at 11:59pm so I should have plenty of time to make use of the business class lounge. There was a small problem at check-out as the staff wanted to charge me for the two Heiniken beers that they did not replace the day before. The staff were fine and after writing a short statement I settled the account.

My three pieces of luggage weighed a total of 35kg which is half my body weight. I may have bitten off more than I could chew with my quest to use public transport to the airport. With two backpacks on and manhandling a 15kg bag I gypsy tapped my way down the street to Nana Station. It was quite comical watching me trying to squeeze through the narrow turnstiles whilst trying to tap the Rabbit Card (GoCard equivalent). When the train pulled in just before 8:00pm I was amazed to see that it was jam packed with commuters. With a little help from a friendly Thai gentleman I managed to squeeze myself in. On arrival at Phaya Thai Station I repeated the process and slowly made my way to the Airport Line. The platform was already packed with commuters, some travellers and a rather sweaty, disheveled David . Luckily for me that this is the start of the line so I managed by the skin of my teeth to land a seat. By the time the train had gone three stops there was absolutely no standing room left. On arrival at the airport I had ceased my sweating and fortunately it was only a short walk to escalators and an airport luggage trolley. I just managed to squeeze into the elevator for the ride from the ground to the 4th floor departure area. Well I made it and even though it was a little traumatic due to my heavy load I would recommend it for single travellers. For a total of 70 baht ($2.40) it is the cheapest trip I have ever made to or from an international airport terminal.

The check-in at the Thai Airline counter was efficient an in total took about five minutes. Even better was that they did not charge me excess baggage for my 31kg load. Even the security check and immigration formalities went smoothly. My trip is nearing the end so now I will enjoy a light snack and some red wine (Tinto) from Portugal before boarding the red eye to Brisbane.

I like Bangkok as there is plenty to hold your attention for a few days. For first time travellers there are plenty of sights and activities to keep you busy. For old hands there is always the shopping and if you have a weekend in your schedule there is the weekend market at Chatuchak.

Highs and Loas

  Thursday 31st October – Chang Rai to Huay Xai and Pak Beng

The early morning call blasted Toby out of bed like he had been shot from a cannon. Our driver was already waiting at reception but we managed to delay our departure long enough to scoff down breakfast. At 6:15 we motored out of the parking lot and hit the road to Chiang Khong. Toby curled up on the back seat and was soon fast asleep. Being so early there was not much traffic on the road. In fact I saw more dogs than cars. They seem to enjoy sitting in the middle of the road and appear to be watching the parade of cars as they pass them by. A quick blast from the horn soon reminds them of where they are. I thought all of the world's Indian Myna birds had congregated at Lucy Street however there were plenty of them perched on power lines as we sped by.

Over the course of the trip our driver who is about my age dropped a couple of unwanted SBD’s. The smell was so rank that it brought tears to my eyes. Toby just slept blissfully on unaware of the sensory assault on my nasal passages. Needless to say I did not bother to tip him. It was a simple process to clear immigration in Thailand. We then spent 40 baht on a boat ticket and were soon crossing the Mekong River into Laos. Our Shompoo Cruise guide was waiting to greet us and gave us the necessary immigration papers to complete. The process was quite easy. You handed over the necessary documents with a passport photograph through one window. You then waited for them to call out you name at the other window, then hand over $US30 and presto you have a visa to enter Laos.

Our cruise boat looks like the one that was portrayed on the internet and is very comfortable. We have plenty of space to spread out as there are only ten passengers on this cruise. After extricating ourselves from the maze of boats that were moored on the river bank the captain had us on our way at 9:45am. Today we will travel approximately 160km downriver to Pak Beng. The river is wide, brown and meanders like a huge python. As we cruise along at a sedate pace we see stately barges and speedboats literally flying past us. Our course is never straight as the captain has to navigate us past rocky shoals and the shallower parts of the river.

A hot lunch was served right on midday and consisted of rice with curry, soup, chicken barbeque in pandanus leaves and steamed Mekong fish. I am not a big fan of chicken but these bite size pieces were delicious. Later in the afternoon our cruise stopped at a local village. They explained that the thatched houses do not have windows as it keeps evil spirits out. We also visited the local primary school which had two teachers. The children have only the bare essentials, no uniforms and earthen floors. It is our first hot day and I was glad to be back on the river catching the cool breezes and feeling like Huckleberry Finn. Only difference is that we can access a cold Lao beer.

The boat docked at Pak Beng just before 4:30pm. Prior to disembarking we backed a couple of basic needs into our day packs as we are leaving our main luggage onboard. It was only a short walk uphill to our overnight lodging, the Monesavanh Guesthouse. Toby is happy because he has a room to himself tonight. The upstairs rooms that have been allocated to us are exceptionally clean but the main bonus is that there is a small balcony overlooking the main street. After settling in we ventured up the main street to determine which establishment would win our custom for dinner tonight. Toby was already hungry so we tried a Laotian pancake from a street vendor.

The girl who prepared this delicious dish was like an artisan at work using deft strokes to create a pancake masterpiece. With some food in our stomachs and a couple of ice cold beer Lao’s we adjourned to our balcony for some people watching.

Retraction notice: While sitting on the balcony Toby confessed to being the perpetrator of the SBD’s that permeated the confines of our taxi. My apologies to the poor driver who must have suffered as much as I did. Dirty little bugger!

Dinner tonight was at the Steak House directly opposite our guesthouse. The steak dinner was average due to the fact that it was only just warm. It must have been sitting in the kitchen for about ten minutes after it was ready. I did have some fun though as all the restaurant guests started to panic when a large grasshopper flew in. It did not take me long to catch it and then pose for photographs. I scared one girl when I touched her back with the grasshopper’s legs. Her scream brought tears of laughter to Toby’s face. I set it free by casting it over the balcony into the night. The only problem was that attracted by the light he returned and met an untimely death when he flew into the overhead fan.

Friday 1st November – Pak Beng to Luang Prabang

Up nice and early for today we are covering 180km along the Mekong River. The river boats are apparently the only means of transport in this area as there are no roads. It is overcast today and is decidedly cooler. Every now and then there are small villages perched high above the river. Goats can be seen grazing near small sandbars while fishermen try their luck for the giant Mekong catfish which can grow up to 200kg. It is a peaceful mode of travel and gives you time to unwind and relax.

After another superb lunch with the highlight being grilled pork mince on a lemon grass skewer we stopped at the Pak Ou caves. The caves hold over 4000 carved Buddha images with some dating back seven centuries. The first cave is more of a rock shelf overlooking the Mekong and the small village on the opposite bank. This cave holds the most images and the more important carvings. The second cave is reached after climbing about 250 steps. It is a much deeper cave and typical of most limestone caves. There are the resident bats and some stalagmites and stalactites. The last part of the journey was spent on the prow of the boat and all too soon we docked at the Luang Prabang port which is on the edge of town. Our verdict was a positive thumbs up for this easy paced trip and I would recommend Shompoo Cruises as a company offering a mid range tour.

Most of the guesthouses in Luang Prabang are within walking distance of The Mekong River and the night market. The two star Singharate Guesthouse is costing us $US30 a night and is located two blocks from the river. Toby and I were a little hungry so it was off to the night market for some street food. We settled on a couple of baguettes which were washed down with fresh fruit smoothies. The cost was 25000 kip each which equates to about $3.50. Toby bought himself a couple of T-shirts from the market which were reasonably priced. Most of items for sale did not interest me so my Kip stayed in my hip pocket. I did part with 21000 kip at a supermarket for three stubbies of dark Beer Lao lager. Back at the hotel I thought I would watch some local television but alas there are no soapies for me as the television refuses to turn on. A quiet beer and it is time for bed.

Saturday 2nd November – Walking and Waterfalls

The room is nice and dark so I did not emerge until 7:00am. Toby on the other hand has taken advantage of our late program and has decided to sleep in. The balcony is the place to be and a great spot to relax watching the street scene unfold. It is an overcast sky this morning with a touch of fog. Hopefully it will be like yesterday and burn off before lunch to reveal a bright blue sky.

Breakfast on the balcony and then a short walk to the river for a coffee was an ideal start to the day. At 11:30am we boarded a mini bus for a 25km drive to the Kuang Si waterfall. The cost was 50000 kip for the bus and 20000 entry fee to the waterfall. The falls themselves are fantastic as there is a large main fall that then cascades down weathered limestone rock into a number of swimming pools.

The water is a milky blue and is reasonably warm. I suckered Toby once again by splashing him as he tip toed like a little girl into the water. He responded by missing me completely and wetting two girls and their expensive camera. If looks could kill Toby would be a dead man! All of the pools were surrounded by dense rainforest but there was enough light to warm the swimming areas. The Inala in us came out when we spotted the rope swing that beckoned us to attempt a dive into the pools. It was a couple of metres above the water and Toby put in a fair effort with his feet first
entry. I managed to get a fair amount of air but my head first entry went astray. My upper body strength was not sufficient to produce the entry required for a dive. Instead I scored a perfect ten for failure when I landed on my side with a sickening thud. One dive was enough for the old fella!

There was also an enclosure for endangered Black Asiatic Bears that have been rescued for rehabilitation. They are beautiful animals and they appear to be healthy and happy in this environment. Hopefully, the donation that Toby and I made will go a small way in helping these wonderful animals. The sun did break through and it has turned out to be another beautiful day.

Back at our guesthouse we have been requested to change rooms. It has turned out that the water outlet in the shower is not draining properly and was in danger of flooding the room. Our new room is better as the air conditioner is silent and efficient. The television also works with the added bonus of HBO movies, news and sport all in English.

At 5:30pm it was time to hit the road and catch the Luang Prabang sunset from a small hillock behind the night markets.  Too old, too slow as we missed the sunset and had to be content with the twilight. To compensate Toby suggested a foot massage do I readily acquiesced. The massage cost 50000 kip ($7) and wasn’t too bad considering that the masseuses were barely teenagers. The evening was finished with an Indian curry which receives the Michelin rating of 6.5 out of 10.

Sunday 3rd November – Back on the Elephant

Toby is still keen to try his hand as a mahout so we are back on tour with one of the many elephant tour operators here in Luang Prabang. On boarding our elephant Toby was allowed to sit on his neck while I had the seat to myself. The young mahout just trotted beside us shouting commands when he needed to. The well worn trail took us into some second growth forest which was quite thick in places. After about 30 minutes Toby started to regret his decision to ride on the neck as his unmentionables were starting to take a battering. On one section the mahout pointed out a green tree snake that was slithering up one of many ferns. It blended in perfectly with its surrounding and was difficult to see even though we were right next to it. Back at the starting point we took turns at feeding our elephant bananas and sugar cane. It must be a real treat because as soon as she saw what was on offer this sagacious animal sprinted over to us. Her trunk worked overtime as we fed her each individual morsel.

I finally got my wish to swim in the Mekong River as part of this tour is that we get to bathe with the elephants. With us sitting on their backs they lumbered down to the river. They stopped at the edge and took a long drink from the cool water before heading into the deeper water. We were sitting peacefully on our elephant when the mahout yelled out a command. Next second there was a quick flick of her enormous head which sent us catapulting unceremoniously into the river. The water was cool, fast flowing, turgid and refreshing. A couple of quick strokes and we were back on board for more of the same. At our next attempt we managed to hold on a little longer as we were more prepared. In the attempt to throw us off she even sunk completely below the surface, a veritable elephant submarine. Our skills are not that great and I don’t think we have a future on the rodeo circuit. A German woman who was with us could not cope and after her first throw swam straight to shore to watch the carnage. Toby and I kept climbing back on and just as quickly we were literally flung back into the water. For us it was great fun and if it wasn’t time for lunch we would have kept on going. Real Inala boys! At 250,000 kip ($35) per person including lunch it represented good value.

Back at the guesthouse we rested up to escape the afternoon heat before heading off on our Lonely Planet walk. It isn’t a long walk but you can easily spend a few hours by exploring the different temples and stopping for coffees at one of the many riverside cafes. We climbed up the many stairs to

That Chomsi and were rewarded with a great view of the City and the Mekong River. There were also many large statues of Buddha in a variety of poses. We took the wrong set of stairs back down and as a result missed Buddha’s oversized footprint. You just can’t help bad luck! The trail then meandered through some palm shaded footpaths before emerging at the Mekong waterfront. Walking along this peninsula there area number of inviting cafe terraces, Lao-French colonial houses and atmospheric small Wats. We spent 20,000 kip for admission into the monastery of Wat Xieng Thong and marvelled at the fine temples and mosaics. Our walk finished with a short stroll on a stretch of the lovely Nam Khan waterfront. We had missed the sunset once again so we selected a cafe on the waterfront and relaxed with an ice cold drink.

It was still too early for dinner so another massage was in order. My neck muscles were very tight so a 60 minute head and shoulder massage should have been what the doctor ordered. The discount price of 38,000 kip ($5) should have been refunded as the young lady who was massaging me did a poor job. I heard her mobile go off a few times and even though I was laying face down I could tell that she was replying by text with one hand. Toby reckoned his massage from a young man was spot on.

Monday 4th November – VIP Bus to Vang Vieng

Our time in Luang Prabang was excellent and we could have easily spent more time here as there are plenty of activities on offer. It would be a good base to contemplate a two or three day trek in the nearby hills and jungle.

I woke up this morning with a touch of diaorreah and after my effort can understand why it is colloquially known as the “squirts”. With a long bus journey in front of us I did not want to be caught short so I popped a couple of Imodium. At the bus terminal I could feel my insides cramping so I made a mercy dash to the squat toilet.

Our 288km bus trip to Vang Vieng departed at 9:30am and as soon as we left the city precinct it became the long and winding road (a great song). It was continuous curves and sharp curves as our bus snaked its way over countless mountain ranges. I really appreciated the great scenery as it was impossible to concentrate on something mundane as reading. At 12:30pm the bus stopped for a toilet break and as if on cue my stomach cramped again. Another 2000 kip for use of a very clean squat toilet and another large donation from me. To play it safe I swallowed another two Imodium. A lunch meal was included in our ticket price but there was no sign of the bus stopping for lunch. Eventually the bus came out of the mountain ranges and onto a narrow fertile plain. The road was still windy but the bus was making better time. Our lunch stop finally occurred at 2:30pm and it was good to get out and stretch our legs. The food was a basic meal with rice and stir fried vegetables which tasted fine. The trip finally came to an end when we arrived at Vang Vieng at 4:00pm. After 6 hours travelling on windy mountain roads I am feeling queasy from all the motion. It would be definitely worth taking a couple of Kwells for anyone undertaking this trip. At the bus terminal I pre-purchased our onward bus tickets to Vientiane.

Our room on the 4th floor of the Vilayvong Hotel ($US30 night) has a great balcony that gives us a great view of the river and the nearby limestone mountains that surround this town. The room is large and clean with a television and mini refrigerator. Unfortunately the power point for the fridge is broken and the air conditioner is in need of a service. I’m in need of an early night so after a hamburger I left Toby to his own devices.

Tuesday 5th November – Ballooning and Tubing

I was up at 5:00am for some hot air ballooning. The flight lasted about 45 minutes and our pilot skilfully guided us between the limestone mountains. The fields below resembled a patchwork quilt and the early morning clouds shrouded the mountain peaks. When the sun popped over the ridgeline the clouds began to dissipate leaving a clear blue sky. The Tassie Devil also got to star in a couple of high altitude photographs. I think our flight had the best pilot as the other balloon landed in a farmer’s backyard. Our landing in a clear area was perfect. At a cost of $US80 it would have to represent one of the world’s cheapest balloon flights.

At around 11:00 we headed down town to begin our tubing experience. There are plenty of you tube videos which highlight the boozy nature of this experience. There has also been some bad press ad a few drunken backpackers have been killed. After paying our 55,000 kip ($8) each we boarded a tuk tuk which took us a few kilometres out of town. The water was clear and flowing at a nice steady pace. We had not gone more than a few hundred metres when the first of the bars beckoned us. The

music was playing loudly and a free Lao whiskey was on offer. Due to the early start time there were not too many revellers at the bar. Toby had a beer and we stayed for about twenty minutes. There are only about five bars now and they are all congregated near the start of the tubing. Most people consume a significant amount of alcohol in a short space of time and then attempt to sober up before they finish. It appears that as a result of the deaths the rope swings have now been dismantled. That is probably a good move. Toby managed to find a couple of more beers, lost his sunglasses in the river and appeared to be enjoying himself. Even without the booze I found the tubing a very relaxing experience and a great way to spend three hours.
     
Back at the guesthouse Toby has succumbed to the effects of the day and crashed relatively early. I had a relaxing afternoon on the balcony and enjoyed the scenery in the evening twilight.

Thailand

Thursday 24th October – Kathmandu to Bangkok

Well my stay in Nepal is over and once again I have thoroughly enjoyed the beauty of the country and the hospitality of the people. I would like to think that I have one more trek left in me and it maybe up to Jemma to help make it happen. James sister Michelle has been absolutely fabulous. She treated me like one of the family and from the first minute made me feel welcome. It was a treat not staying in Thamel and it added to the adventure when trying to give directions and negotiating fares with the taxi drivers. Speaking of taxis my driver from yesterday was keen to earn another 500 rupees and will deliver me to the international terminal at 10:30am.

My flight is not until 1:30 pm and as most people know I do not like hanging around. The exception to the rule is when I can take advantage of a business class lounge and have a free lunch with a glass or two of wine. The driver was waiting for me when I left the hacienda and the subsequent trip to the airport went smoothly. An additional advantage of arriving early was that the check-in and immigration was hassle free. The business class lounge is a quiet and salubrious experience compared to the chaos of the downstairs waiting area. The normal cost to enter this lounge is $US44 per person which means that the priority pass has saved me nearly $US20. It is back to the rigours of economy class once I board my Thai flight to Bangkok. I guess that I will delay the inevitable as long as possible.

The flight departed about 50 minutes late due to all the domestic flights that were landing. I was very lucky with the seat allocation as I had a spare seat next to me which allowed me to spread out. This time my in-flight entertainment was working so I whiled away the time by watching the movie “white House Down”. It wasn’t a bad action flick. I didn’t really need the meal they served but I could not resist the lamb cutlets which were sensational. On landing I sprinted the one kilometre to immigration, ducked under the rope and joined a queue with only eight people in it. I was feeling very pleased with myself but that all changed when the passenger in front of me had problems with his passport. All the other queues were moving steadily while I just stood and waited for twenty minutes until his problem was resolved. The best laid plans of mice and men!

My bags were one of the last ones on the carousel. I made my way to zone 4 and like Toby eventually found the girl who organised the free shuttle to The Silver Gold Garden Hotel. Alice the girls and I stayed here in 2008 and at $28 a night including breakfast and airport transfers it is a real bargain. At 8:00pm I arrived at the hotel and had to hustle Toby from his air conditioned room so I could unload my bags. Toby was looking relaxed and we went out for a Pad Thai meal at the hotel restaurant. The food was good but I had obviously eaten too much over the course of the day. Back in the room I regurgitated a fair quantity of partly digested food. I feel much better now!

Friday 25th October – Bangkok to Chang Mai

Toby is definitely not a morning person but I hope to change that over the next three weeks. We were up at 7:00am for an early breakfast and a couple of strong coffees. At 8:30am the shuttle bus took us to the airport for our 10:40am flight to Chang Mai. As there is plenty of time we took up a position in the food court and ordered a couple of coffees from, of all things, a Coffee Club franchise. I had my Coffee Club VIP card with me so I thought I would try and get a discount. Too my surprise the waitress gave me 10% discount and as I always say “Little Fish a Sweet”. Toby bought an ice cream from McDonalds which gave us access to one hour of Wi Fi.

Our flight departed on time and fifty minutes later it touched down in Chang Mai. For 120 baht a deluxe minivan delivered us to the Suriwongse Hotel which is located just 50 metres from the night bazaar. It is a four star hotel which Alice and I stayed at in 2005. Our room is huge, well appointed and has cost only $45 a night with a buffet breakfast. I think the price was cheap as the old section that Alice and I stayed in is being renovated.

Toby and I went out for a Thai lunch of spicy papaya salad and then went and booked some tours for the following days. Also booked some VIP bus tickets for the road trip to Chang Rai. The cost of the tickets was 288 baht ($10) per person. Not content with a tour we decided on a Thai massage each from one of the many parlours that line the main street. I had a foot, shoulder and head massage for 180 baht while Toby spent 300 baht on a full oil massage. At this price it is likely that I will have a couple more. Prior to dinner we made a couple of purchases at the night market. It was a fairly late night as we decided to have a few beers after our seafood dinner.

Saturday 26th October – Elephant Riding and Bamboo Rafting

Up bright and early for a buffet breakfast before we are picked up for our all day tour which has cost 900 baht ($30). Our first stop was for a 45 minute elephant ride through the mountains which are about one hour from Chang Mai. Toby enjoyed himself as the mahout let him ride on the elephants neck for the last part of the ride. He had a bag full of bananas which he fed to the elephant by taping her on the head. On this signal it would curl up its trunk and take Toby’s fruit offering.

We had a short stop at a Karen Hill tribe village where we were able to observe some of their daily life. They really live in primitive conditions but they all appear to be happy. There were a couple of pig carcasses hanging from poles which seemed to be a favourite for the flies. Toby exchanged a couple of his valuable cigarettes with the locals and in turn they let us have a pretend puff on their opium pipe as well as a banana leaf rolly. After a long walk we reached the Maewang waterfall but because of recent heavy rain it was not suitable for swimming. Another kilometre of walking along a fairly muddy track brought us to the Long Neck Kayan village. There were no long necks to be seen however for 200 baht we would be allowed to go and photograph a couple. All of the people on the tour declined the offer and instead spent 10 baht each firing a crossbow at a cardboard target.

Our very gay lady boy guide whose name was Gae (very appropriate) kept us moving towards our lunch destination. I kept us entertained by singing Village People songs. Our lunch was a vegetarian stir fry served with rice and accompanied by soup and fruit. It must have been good as there was nothing left at our table. When lunch was finished it was off to the river for some bamboo rafting. Toby and I took the front raft and he started squealing when I splashed the cold river water over him. It wasn’t long before we had also soaked the Singaporean couple behind us as well as the German family on the other raft. The rafts are captained by locals who use long bamboo poles to move and guide the rafts. The river was running quite strongly and it was exhilarating as we sped over submerged rocks and ducked our heads under low hanging tree branches. Towards the end our young captain gave us both an opportunity to guide and propel our unwieldy craft. The rafting was a lot of fun and also the last activity of the day.

Back in Chang Mai Toby has decided to try his hand at bartering for more goods. Judging by the number of items that he has bought, I think he is starting to get the hang of it. It is another early start tomorrow so we are back at the hotel a lot earlier tonight.

Sunday 27th October – Smart Cook Thai Cookery School

This morning we were picked up and taken to a little food market for a tour. Our guide identified a number of the different vegetables that we would be using throughout the day. Before heading out to the cooking school’s country farm we had a 40 baht fruit smoothie which was delicious. We are pretty lucky as there are only three of us partaking in the class today. The last part of our journey to the farm was undertaken by bicycle down some country lanes. The farm is more of a country garden that provides the majority of the ingredients for the course. The other participant is a Welsh lady named Tanya and our teacher is a relatively young Thai girl who goes by the name of Tan. Her English was quite good which made her instructions easy to understand. The course was made easier as most of the ingredients were pre cut.

For lunch Toby cooked himself some Pad Thai (fried noodle Thai style) and a Chang Mai style hot and sour chicken soup. He did not muck around in devouring them so they must have tasted fine. I tried my hand at stir fried holy basil with chicken and a delicious hot and sour prawn soup. After we had eaten I jumped on the bicycle and went for a 30 minute ride around the local neighbourhood.

After lunch I pounded out a massaman curry paste with mortar and pestle while Toby made a red curry paste. With our pastes we made up some chicken curries which had a bit of a kick to them thanks to the magic of chillies. To finish off I made a spicy papaya salad and for desert a sweet sticky rice with mango. Toby tried his hand at vegetarian spring rolls and deep fried banana. There was plenty of food left over which we bagged up for dinner. The class was excellent and we both think that we may be able to recreate some of the dishes thanks to the accompanying recipe book.

Back in town we arranged for a one hour foot massage as it is pretty tough work cooking up a five course dinner. On our way back to the hotel we could not resist the ranting of a mad Turkish man with his Thai assistants selling chicken kebabs for 50 baht each. Toby is a fan of Thai Boxing so we have arranged to go to a stadium tonight to watch a few bouts. We were given seats in the second row which cost 400 baht ($13.50). Our hostess soon had a cold beer in our hands and considering the occasion the price was reasonable. There were six fights on the program plus one novelty fight. The action was fast and furious and none of the fights went the distance. I managed to pick 3 winners out of the 6 fights that were contested. The novelty fight was a hoot. There were three fighters in the ring but the catch was that they were blindfolded. They went at it hammer and tongs and the only knock downs were when the referee was snotted. This happened on more than one occasion. All in all it was a reasonable night of entertainment.

Monday 28th October – Chang Mai to Chang Rai

Today we travelled on the Greenline VIP bus to Chang Rai. The 288 baht was well spent as the seat configuration gave us ample room to stretch out. The journey is just under 200km and takes about three hours. The road wound its way through lush countryside, farmland and mountain ranges. I don’t know why it is but bus, airline and train companies insist on making your journey a painful experience by slowly freezing you to death. The other problem with the cold is that one needs to make frequent trips to the loo. Luckily our bus is fitted out with a very clean water closet. The process of actually going to the toilet was another experience. Try and imagine the balancing act required as the bus lurched from side to side as it negotiated the windy mountain roads. After banging my head and shoulders on the walls and roof of the tiny cubicle I managed to get myself into a safe sitting position and then braced myself with a hand on each wall. Ah instant relief!

We arrived at the bus station around 1:00pm and were soon on a motorised tuk-tuk to the Laluna Hotel and Resort (1400 baht/night). This is a four star hotel and our bungalow is set in a beautiful garden surrounded by hibiscus and palm trees. The room is large and the bathroom is big enough to hold a party in. I think Toby is getting spoiled as he can’t wait to get stuck into the buffet breakfast. After settling in we hired a couple of bicycles and headed off to the town centre. I arranged a tour for tomorrow and made enquiries about the cost of transportation for our run to the Laos border.

Back at our hotel Toby went for a swim while I purchased a couple of beers. It was relaxing sitting on our patio in the twilight sipping on some ice cold Chang export lager. For dinner tonight we found a restaurant along the same road as our hotel. Both of us decided on a hot and not too spicy seafood soup. I’m glad that I ordered not so spicy as after the first few mouthfuls my mouth was on fire. I tried in vain to quench the fire with cold beer but in the end all I could do is wait for the heat to subside. Should be interesting in the morning!

Tuesday 29th October – On Tour in Chang Rai

I woke up this morning with more than just a rumble in my tummy. It is fortunate that our tour pickup is not until 9:00am as both of us have made mercy dashes to the toilet. Three trips and I can still feel spasmodic stomach cramps.

Our tour has only cost 700 baht ($24) per person and includes a 50 baht allowance for lunch. We were pleasantly surprised when our guide picked us up in a near new Isuzu. Another young couple will be accompanying us on the tour. The young girl from France and her boyfriend from Italy have been on the road in South East Asia since July. It is a small world as prior to that they had spent the last year living at Milton, Brisbane in the View apartments on Coronation Drive.

Our first stop today was at the White Temple. Construction started in the 1980’s and is still a work in progress. The artisans are painstakingly gluing small mirrors to the entire facade. The completed works that are surrounded by ponds and beautifully kept gardens give the whole place a feeling of serenity. One interesting aspect was the mural that is still being completed in the main temple. It is very surreal and reminds me of Dali’s works. There are superheroes, scenes of destruction like the twin towers, death and angels. I have no clue as to what the artist is trying to convey. Next stop on the opposite side of town was the black house. In terms of design it is also at the opposite end of the spectrum when compared to the white temple. The Thai designer/artist commenced building here over 35 years ago. It seems to be a fusion of Thai, Balinese and African. In the main hall there were wooden tables that could seat over 200 people. What I thought was a long table runner turned out to be several giant Python skins. The main motif all around the property were the skulls of long deceased buffaloes. Toby was excited when he found a cage sporting two large Burmese Pythons.

The highlight of the tour was our visit to a local hill tribe village. The entry fee was 300 baht which goes to the local community. There are five different ethnic tribes residing in this small area. The tribes share the farming land but congregate in separate groups. I suspect that this is done more for the tourists rather than cultural differences. The tribes represented here are the Akha, Lahu – Muser, Palong (big earring), Yao – Lu Mien and the Karen Long Necks. The long necks get the most attention as the brass rings that circle their necks can weigh up to 4 kilograms. Legend claims that the brass rings protect the women from tiger bites however the practice of wearing them helps maintain individual and tribal identity. Our walk through the various compounds was interesting especially when we came across the pen holding the wild boars. There is nothing like the sight of a randy old boar (David) chasing a female (Alice) around and around the pen.

The fifty baht lunch was a real treat. The main meal served with rice and a clear soup was only 30 baht ($1) and tasted great. We made up the difference by washing down the meal with a couple of large cokes. Next stop on our large agenda was the Monkey Cave and yes there were plenty of these annoying hairy beats to photograph. The walk up a steep flight of over 200 steps brought us to the cave. There was no one there so the lights were out in the cave. There was enough light to show the reclining Buddha that makes the location sacred to the Thais. The town of Mae Sai on the Burmese border beckoned us. Our driver took us through the centre of the local market and then to the summit of a large hill. The view of Burma was quite good but it really looked like it was conjoined with Mae Sai. There was a thirty minute opportunity for browsing through the local market. The prices were pretty good so Toby could not resist the urge to buy a few more goods.

It was now after 4:00pm and our next stop was the Golden Triangle. Our view point was on a small hill that overlooked the Mekong River and a smaller river that flowed into it. At this confluence of the two rivers are the borders of Thailand, Burma and Laos. The Meekong flowing brown and wide is around 4900km and the tenth longest river in the world. In this area we also visited the small opium museum and a large golden Buddha which stood on the banks of the river. There are a few nice hotels and restaurants lining the river and it appears that it would be a good area to spend a night prior to heading into Laos. Our last stop on what has been a big day was a 700 year old temple in the town of Chiang Sen. It was dark when we arrived but the temple had lights on as there were monks praying and chanting at the base of the Buddha.

It was after 7:00pm when we arrived back in Chiang Rai and the driver was kind enough to drop us at the night market. I would certainly recommend Thailand Tour (Mr Lotte) for day trips in Chang Rai. After a quick walk through the market we ended up in the huge open air food market. After availing ourselves or a bright yellow metal chair and table we selected an establishment which would fulfil our culinary needs. There was plenty of seafood on offer and I settled on half a dozen tempura prawns for 40 baht and seven vegetarian spring rolls for 20 baht. The food was reasonable and at that price a real bargain.

Wednesday 30th October – Poolside Laluna Resort

After the big day yesterday Toby and I have decided to take it easy. A nice sleep in was followed by a small grazing session at the buffet breakfast. There was even time for a few lengths of the pool prior to heading into town for some lunch. Toby is still on the hunt for bargains and because he shops like a woman I have left him to his own devices. He eventually returned to the hotel with a new pair of jeans.

I have booked a wakeup call for 5:15am as our private transport to the Laos border will pick us up at 6:15am. We are using the same tour company as yesterday and the cost will be 1800 baht ($60) which was the cheapest I could find. Our afternoon swim was cut short by a torrential downpour which was accompanied by thunder. The only thing to do now is pack our bags for tomorrow and have a quiet beer with dinner.

Last Night in Nepal

Saturday 19th October – Chitwan to Kathmandu

Up early this morning for our last breakfast before catching the dreaded bus back to Kathmandu. Our hosts at the Tiger Camp have really looked after us and have been understanding about our desire not to participate in all the activities. We have all relaxed and are satisfied with all the animals that we were lucky enough to have seen. Michelle gathered an extra couple of bruises on her legs from constantly hitting the wooden cage during the elephant safari. The cost of $US85 per person for all meals, activities and lodging for 3 days and 2 nights is still a good bargain. Just to finish off a good stay I was lucky enough during breakfast to see a rhino crossing the river upstream from the lodge.

Our tourist bus operated by Mountain Overland departed on time at 9:30am. The bus itself was quite new and comfortable and by the time we left the town of Chitwan there was a full load. The first section to Mugling went without incident and by midday had reached the lunch break restaurant. Lunch was included in our ticket and of course it was dal baht. The Nepali’s in our group loaded up their plates while we were content to have a more restrained portion.

The next section to Kathmandu is the make or break part of the journey. Today we were lucky and after another 4 hours of incident free driving and just before 5:00pm we reached the bus park in Kathmandu. Our total driving time not including rest breaks was around 7 hours for a journey of 200 km. Michelle heard from a friend that there had been a serious accident on the road to Pokhora and traffic was not getting through. Someone else's misfortune probably helped our journey. To add a different perspective to this it is about the same amount of time to fly from Brisbane to Singapore. When we stopped I knew we were somewhere near Thamel but I had no idea where we were. Michelle however soon had us in a taxi and within ten minutes we were at her hacienda. What a welcome respite it is after all that time on the bus.

It was back to Alice’s restaurant tonight for another fabulous dinner. I have been hanging out for a good salad and was not disappointed when a big plate of green stuff was placed in front of me. James opted for the steamed spinach momos filled with vegetables and they looked and tasted delicious. For mains James and I went for the spicy chicken wrap whilst Michelle went for the tamer barbeque version. By our second piece James and I were sweating and clearing our sinuses. Our mouths were on fire and I was trying to put it out by gulping down large quantities of beer. James was more sensible and ordered a chocolate milkshake to sooth his mouth. We soldiered on and managed to finish what was a deliciously hot wrap. I don’t know what tomorrow will bring as a result of that spice but my mouth had a warm glow long after we had finished eating. The atmosphere at this restaurant is so relaxed that we chatted for a long while after the meal had finished.

Sunday 20th October – Belinda’s Arrival

Woke up bright and early this morning and I don’t appear to be having any unwanted symptoms after last night’s meal. James has whipped up one of his special omelettes for breakfast which was once again delicious. Around midday we headed off to the airport to pick up James’ girlfriend Belinda who is due to land at 12:25. The flight was a little bit in front of schedule and it wasn’t long before she exited the terminal.

After Belinda had settled into the hacienda we all headed into Thamel. James and Belinda had to meet with their guide’s representative to put the finishing touches on their 17 day trek over the three passes to Everest Base Camp. I did a small amount of shopping while Michelle surfed the net at the Java cafe.

Dinner tonight was at the Buzz Bar which is located a short walk from Michelle’s. The ambiance was excellent and is a great place for a relaxing drink. The food however was not up to the same standard. The curry which was supposed to be medium spicy was bland and you needed a Seeing Eye dog to find the chicken. I ordered a medium rare pepper steak with vegetables and chips. The chips and the miniscule portion of vegetables were good but my piece of steak is best forgotten. It was a small piece that was cooked so long it might as well have been cremated. Luckily, I had a chainsaw that enabled me to saw through this piece of old leather. You cannot expect a great meal every time you eat out but at least the beer was cold and the company excellent.

Monday 21st October – Thamel Shopping Day

James does not seem to be having any luck at the moment when it comes to food. It looks like he has picked up a mild dose of food poisoning from last night’s disastrous meal. He is certainly off colour and has taken some high level prescription tablets that can cure just about everything except the common cold.

Belinda and I gave him some quiet recuperation time by heading off into Thamel for some lunch and

James had certainly picked up considerably from this morning and was looking forward to an evening meal. We gave the Buzz Bar a miss and headed off to Alice’s where the staff are starting to recognise us. The food was much better but alas they also do not understand the concept of a medium rare steak. I’ll just have to go back to the Everest Steak House.

Tuesday 22nd October – All By Myself

James and Belinda were up bright and early as they are getting picked up at 7:30am. They are off to the domestic airport where they will catch a light plane to what many believe is the world’s most dangerous airport, Lukla. From there they will commence a 17 day trek over three high passes to Everest Base Camp.

After seeing them off I decided that I would walk into Thamel for a rooftop breakfast. After walking for 20 minutes I realised that I was going in circles. I gave up the idea of walking and grabbed a taxi which soon had me at my destination. With the sun warming my back I had a big breakfast and a couple of cups of coffee. With my trusty Kindle to keep me occupied I whiled away a couple of hours before hitting the shops. After yesterday’s shopping effort I have decided that I need a bigger bag and have headed back to my favourite shop Snowland. The owner always gives a fair price and will tell you where the knock off item is produced. He had a North Face bag but it was too small. He then invited me for a cup of tea and we sat down on some low stools for a good chin wag. After filling my backpack with all sorts of goodies it was time for lunch at you know where.

Arrived back at the hacienda a little after 4:00pm where I was greeted by Michelle’s Nepali helper Di Di. The new bag that I bought for 700 rupees can comfortably hold all of my purchases. I just hope that my bags do not exceed the airline limits. If they do then I will be wearing a lot more clothes onto the plane. When Michelle arrived home we sat down to some potato vegetarian wraps that Di Di had prepared earlier. The Spanish red wine that Michelle produced from the kitchen cupboard complemented what was a delicious meal.

Wednesday 23rd October – Toby is Airborne

My nephew Toby is off to Brisbane airport this morning for his first overseas trip. He is flying with Singapore airlines via Singapore to Bangkok. Hopefully all goes well until I catch up with him tomorrow evening.

Today I have organised a taxi for 9:30am for an all day road trip to Bhaktapur and Patan. I really enjoyed the taxi ride out to Patan especially when we had to weave our way through narrow streets bordered by old wooden buildings. Women were drying the seeds from rice on large mats on the side of the road while men pushing bicycles were hawking their wares.
shopping. After finally finding an ATM that would dispense 35000 rupees we took a luncheon break at the Pumpernickel Cafe. For a change I tried a hamburger which wasn’t too bad once I added the tomato sauce. Belinda is starting to get a feel for the street layout of Thamel and was a great help in assisting me to choose some pashminas for my lovely girls. After all this walking it was time for a treat so it was off to the bakery for a German chocolate truffle cake, chocolate doughnut and a custard Danish tart. They all tasted like mana from heaven. After negotiating my first taxi trip back to Balutar I was able to give the right directions to the hacienda.
the domestic airport where they will catch a light plane to what many believe is the world’s most dangerous airport, Lukla. From there they will commence a 17 day trek over three high passes to Everest Base Camp.

Patan Durbar Square is situated at the centre of Lalitpur city. It is one of the three Durbar Squares in Kathmandu Valley, all of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. One of its attractions is The Ancient Royal Palace where Malla Kings of Lalitpur resided. The Durbar Square is a marvel of Newa architecture. The Square floor is tiled with red bricks. There are many temples and idols in the area. The main temples are aligned opposite of the western face of the palace. The entrance of the temples faces east, towards the palace. There is also a bell situated in the alignment beside the main temples. The Square also holds old Newari residential houses. You have to admire the intricate wooden carvings that support the roof structure of the temples. It reminds me of our own Nepalese pagoda that now stands at South Bank. The entrance fee is 500 rupees and represents much better value than the Kathmandu Durbar Square. Another highlight is that the local populace keeps the square remarkably clean.  

Next stop on my joyride was Bhaktapur which is undoubtedly the most impressive of the three Durbar Squares. Also World Heritage listed it has also been used as a site for movies such as the best forgotten “Golden Child” with Eddie Murphy, “Seven Years in Tibet” with Brad Pitt and “Little Buddha” with Keanu Reeves. There are four main squares in Bhaktapur Durbar Square, Taumadhi Square, Dattatraya Square and Pottery Square. Durbar Square is a conglomeration of stone art, metal art, wood carving and terracotta art. The Golden Gate, statue of King Malla perching on the top of stone monoliths, the palace of 55 windows and the National Art Gallery are the major monuments of this ancient city. Most of the construction occurred in the 17th and 18th centuries. In Taumadhi Square the Nyatapola Temple with its multiple rooves over five stories is a fine example of engineering and architectural skills. Dattatraya Square is the oldest part of the city and you can observe various size and shaped windows carved from wood. The most impressive is the Peacock Window.     

You can probably guess what is made in Pottery Square. There are still many potters working with their traditional wooden wheels molding the clay into earthen pots.

After walking around the City which could be up for a “Tidy Town” award because of the cleanliness I was ready for some lunch. I chose a rooftop restaurant which allowed me ample opportunity to people watch. In 2011 Japan and Nepal managed to build a two lane highway in each direction between the airport and Bhaktapur making it only a twenty minute drive between the two areas. As a result I would recommend that you arrange to stay your last night in Nepal at Bhaktapur to enjoy some peace and quiet in this world heritage town.

The dual highway looks like it will eventually go into the heart of Kathmandu City. The road width is there but the money appears to have dried up possibly through corruption as on each side of the current road there are great swathes of rutted earth. My driver who cost 2000 rupees for six hours dropped me back in Thamel for a late afternoon blended ice lemon drink at the Java cafe. I arrived back at the hacienda a round 5:30pm and found that the latch on the front gate had been closed. I pondered on how I would gain entry to this impregnable fortress. Eventually, I found a long stick and by leaning over the tall fence was able to dislodge the offending latch. When I told Michelle of my predicament she laughed and told me all I had to do was turn the knob on the front gate. Dur!

For dinner tonight Michelle has taken me to the Roadhouse (can’t help but think of the old Doors song Roadhouse Blues). I went with Michelle’s advice and had a delicious wood fired pizza which was better than my local Miltonios. I washed it down with a tall ice cold Tuborg which should help me gain a little more weight. It is my last night in Nepal and Michelle generously picked up the tab for dinner.

A ticket to Ride with Dimitri

Sunday 13th October – Free Falling

This morning there is plenty of cloud cover but there is still a view of Fishtail so it may be a good day for paraflying. After organising our 40 to 60 minute flights (10500 rupees) we wandered the main street looking for trinkets. Along the way we stopped at the Meera Hotel and made contact with Tip’s son who works there as a waiter. Whilst swapping email addresses Tip rang and invited James and I to visit his farm across the lake tomorrow in order to celebrate the festival with his family.

After lunch the weather started to deteriorate further so we made the decision to postpone our flights for a few days. This gave us the opportunity to book a zip line adventure from the top of Sarangot in two days time. After all this excitement and a quick Skype to home it was off to the Jiva Spa for another 90 minute massage. The irony has not been lost on me as the cost of the massage is more than what our porters earn for three days work. Nevertheless the massage was once again excellent. It was dark when we finished so it was off for another meat lovers experience at the Everest. Nicholas has also rocked in for his last supper in Pokhora before heading back to Kathmandu and lands beyond. A good evening with good company was the perfect end to what has turned out to be a wet day.

Monday 14th October - Dasian Festival

The rain tumbled down all night and it does not look like abating during the day. Himal contacted us and I met him down in the lobby. James has decided to remain at the hotel and nuke the bug that has continued to plague him on and off. I donned my poncho and followed Himal down to the lake where we searched for someone to rent us a canoe. For 500 rupees we have a boat for the day which Himal and not I will paddle to the distant shore of Lake Fewa. Once across it was another 45 minute slog through the rain up to Tip’s farm. There were a lot of Namaste’s exchanged as I was greeted by his family and friends. If it wasn’t for the rain there would have been a good view of the lake and the mountains.

I took up a position on the porch and placed my posterior on the only available stool. One of the girls placed a cup of ginger tea in my hands which I sipped on contentedly. Tip led me inside and we crouched on a mat in front of his 84 year old mother who placed a white rice tika on our foreheads.

The ritual included her dropping rice into our hair and smearing it on our hands. At the end you must give her a gift of thanks which is usually a few rupees. The lamb that had been slaughtered was on the menu and although there were plenty of bones the spicy curry tasted nice. Tip went into his storeroom and came out with four litres of his wife’s homemade firewater, Raski which is made from rice. Luckily, it was somewhat diluted with water which meant that I could stay sober if I sipped it slowly. It certainly helped to keep me warm whilst I was sitting in the cold on the verandah. Tip is like a groom at a wedding as he has to be everywhere ensuring that everyone is having a good time. One of the customs is that a younger person must bow down to the feet of their elders as a sign of respect.

I had delayed my lunch of dal baht for as long as possible but Tip’s wife eventually succeeded in getting me to eat. The rain was getting heavier and I was not looking forward to the trip back. A bit after 2:00 I bid my farewells to Tip who at this stage was looking a little tipsy from all of the raski. He grasped my hand and held it to his heart and tearfully thanked me for coming and at the same time apologising for not being with me the whole time. I took my time walking down the slippery stone staircase as I did not want a repeat of the other day. After emptying the boat of rain water we headed off into the wind for the long row across the lake.  It rained all the way so my butt was wet and it ached from sitting on the damp wooden bench. A little after 4:00pm I arrived back at the hotel looking like a drowned rat. I looked like I had been shot in the head as the red tika I received from another grandmother had started to run down the side of my face. It was a great experience which would have been better if it had been a little shorter and the rain had stayed away.

James was looking a lot better so we braved the rain and went out for some vegetarian Indian food. The only good thing about the meal was the naan bread and leaving the restaurant.

Tuesday 15th October – Deeper Water

Like the great Paul Kelly song the water here is getting deeper due to the constant rain. The three of us were booked in for zip lining but that had to be rescheduled for tomorrow. All of this rain is apparently being caused by a cyclone that hit India a couple of days ago. Water is flowing down the streets like a river in full flood. Pokhora is getting a real spring clean. With nothing else to do we checked out a few shops and bought some ABC t-shirts as a reminder of our trek.

After lunch it was back to the Jiva Spa for another 90 minute massage. I am having a hot stone massage that Michelle recommended. I nearly fell asleep on the table as the masseuse gently rubbed my back and shoulders with copious quantities of oil. This should replenish my dry old skin. It was so relaxing with the sound of the rain on the corrugated iron roof and the occasional knocking of the stones as I was being massaged. Hopefully, the heat from the stones will remove some of the stored up toxins in my body. James and Michelle also looked contented and both proclaimed that their massages a success.

I dropped into the internet cafe on the way back to the hotel and had an embarrassing moment. I needed to go to the toilet and the manager gave me some convoluted hand signals that indicated that the toilet was out the back and around a corner. We all know the problem that when you are getting close to the toilet the urge to go multiplies out of proportion of the real need. I was starting to hop on both feet. There were hotel rooms but I could see no sign of a toilet. I could not see anyone so in the end the only option left was to let loose in the hotel garden. Ah relief at last!

Dinner tonight was taken at the Lemon Tree restaurant. The food was good but was delivered to each of us over a 30 minute period. When we finished it was still raining cats and dogs.

Wednesday 16th October – Adrenalin Action

The sky is still overcast but at least the rain has finally stopped. I can clearly see the lake and the top of Sarangot which is a good sign. The paraflying agency has confirmed that our flights today will proceed but they may be running late. The three of us have booked a cross country flight which cost 10500 rupees ($110) each. The term cross country is a bit of a misnomer as all it means is that you fly higher and longer. You still land in the same spot as the cheaper flight (7500 rupees for 20 to 30 minutes) but the flight time is between 40 and 60 minutes.

Our launch pad is at Sarangot about 1700 metres above sea level. James was the first off due to his superior weight advantage. It wasn’t long before he was off and climbing higher on the thermals. Michelle who was a little nervous followed soon after. My pilot, Dimitri from Bulgaria was a real character. After he settled me into the harness he launched into a medley of Beatles songs. I think he knew the entire catalogue and before long I was singing with him. The time, pardon the pun, just flew by as we soared on the thermals just below the cloud line. There were over twenty other parafliers all riding the thermals and I must admit that my only fear is colliding with another parachute. The pilots however seem to be aware of their surroundings and make the necessary adjustments in direction. All to soon it was time descend but Dimitri had one more surprise for me. No it wasn’t another Lennon and McCartney song. When we were over the lake Dimitri handed over the controls too me and under his instruction I executed a series of left and right turns. A nice safe landing by Dimitri and my 50 minutes of fun was over. Michelle landed soon after and you could tell by the expression on her face that she had really enjoyed herself. We joined James who had been down for about 10 minutes. It was a great flight with great views of the lake and Pokhora but unfortunately no mountains.

After lunch it was time for our next adventure, the Zip Flyer. It is claimed to be the world’s longest, steepest and fastest zip-line. We departed at 3:00pm and once again headed up to Sarangot. The zip-line is a new attraction and as a result the facilities are very modern. There were ten participants but as the time wore on two of them decided to take the jeep back down the mountain. After what seemed a drawn out wait it was time for me to be strapped into the harness. To ensure that accidents do not occur there was a fairly comprehensive safety brief. At a 56% incline, 1.8km in length and a 2000 foot vertical drop I’m ready for the gates to open and start this thrilling ride. On a clear day you would see the Annapurna mountain range but we are content with the forest canopy and river below. The gates open and I’m on my way flying through the air. James and I had anticipated that the speed would be fast but found it rather tame. Michelle also relaxed and enjoyed her zip down to the bottom. At a cost of nearly 6000 rupees for 90 seconds of action I would say that this ride is a once only attraction.

Back into Pokhora just before 6:00pm so we decided to try Tip’s recommendation for Dal Baht at the Sun Welcome restaurant. We took a table at the front of the restaurant and were enjoying the peace of no blaring music. A large European sat down just below our table and started to open his cigarettes. I politely asked him if he was smoking and he replied yes. I asked him if he wouldn’t mind not smoking and he said okay. Communication breakdown as when he had unwrapped the packet he offered me a smoke. We laughed and explained that none of us smoked. He was good about it and took another table away from us. The dal baht was excellent and the cost even better. Under $10 for three meals, Garlic naan bread and drinks.

Thursday 17th October – Pokhara to Chitwan    

After gulping down breakfast it was time for us to say farewell to Pokhora. The couple of days of rain did limit our experience here but as usual it is still a great place to relax and chill after a trek. We have pre booked (8000 rupees) the Fiat that the hotel uses for our trip to Chitwan. The driver whose name I do not know is quiet and very competent. The first part of the journey to the turn off at Mugling went very smoothly and took 2.25 hours. The road down to Chitwan follows the river for a long distance and for the most part the journey is slow. This is due to many sections of the road being washed out and laced with huge potholes. Even with these obstacles it only took us 1.5 hours to reach the Tiger Camp at Chitwan.

They obviously are heavily booked at the moment as our sleeping quarters are in a neighbouring lodge called the Jungle Adventure World. We can’t complain as we have our own bungalow with a porch and a gas hot water system. After Pokhora you can really notice the change in temperature.
Lunch beckoned so we made our way back to the Tiger Camp where they served us up a hearty lunch. It is a buffet and included in the cost of our stay. With nothing to do until our late afternoon walk the three of us went off and explored the main part of the Sauraha village. This consisted of walking down the main street past the stores selling tourist kitsch, a few bars, restaurants and a couple of banks. After a cold beer on the rooftop of a restaurant it was time to Skype home. Amazingly this was the best connection of the trip so far.

At 4:30pm we were off for a walk to the elephant breeding centre. Down by the river our guide pointed out two large sleeping crocodiles that were on a nearby sandbank. One was a mugger which is similar to our Australian salty and the other which has a longer snout was an Indian Gharial. We then followed a muddy trail through the forest and were soon engulfed by mosquitoes. Thank goodness for Telissa’s areogard.

The highlight of the walk was when we came across an old cow elephant foraging in the forest. Apparently the older ones who can no longer work are set loose during the day. The guide cautioned us to keep our distance as they will sometimes charge you. Luckily, we did as this old cow turned on us and shaped to charge. After a warning trumpet she turned and continued on her way back to the elephant camp. We followed at a discreet distance until we reached the breeding centre. In one of the enclosures there was a young calf that was only three months old. It was quite comical as it tried to scratch it’s rump on a stump of wood.

Our buffet dinner was ready at 7:00pm. James and Michelle pronounced the fried chicken as first class while I through most of my pork to the mongrel dog that had sidled up next to me. The remainder of the meal was also delicious. After dinner most of the guests headed off to the cultural show. We have feigned tiredness and retreated to our rooms for an early night.

Friday 18th October – Elephant Ride

The sun is up, the sky is blue and we are all relaxed after a good night of uninterrupted sleep. We are not rushing for breakfast as we have also declined the canoe trip down the Rapti River and the subsequent three hour walk through the jungle. The guide even indicated that it was unlikely that we would see any wildlife on the walk. Relaxation is the name of the game for this morning!

Over breakfast we could see a couple of small crocodiles basking on the sandbank across the river from our lodge. There was a bit of commotion when the big gharial crocodile slithered out of the water and took prime position on the bank. We were hoping to participate in washing the elephants but unfortunately there was no action today.

After lunch we boarded an old four wheel drive for a trip down to the elephant safari headquarters. We all squeezed onto the back of our trusty pachyderm and were soon heading into the thick undergrowth of the jungle. There were plenty of trees to dodge and James who was at the rear ended up with a few scratches to his legs.

Our first animal sightings were a small troop of monkeys some with babies on their backs who scampered off into the undergrowth. We spent some time chasing a large peacock with bright plumage before heading out to a large grassy area. There were some spotted deer and sambar deer grazing on the grass. We then spotted a large female one horned rhinoceros with a baby in tow. There were also about 15 other elephants in the vicinity all vying for some happy snaps of these awesome creatures. Towards the end of our ride there were more spotted deer with one of the males displaying a large set of antlers. After nearly two hours our little safari was over. I think that is enough time as I doubt that my butt could have lasted much longer. The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing over a quiet drink and waiting for the red sunset over the Rapti River and the fields of elephant grass.