Thursday, 19th November – Another Day at the Office
It is a little like Groundhog Day as Tony and I have had bacon, fried eggs and pork beans for breakfast followed by another workout at the gym. The girls went off for Pilates and an aqua fitness class. I must be enjoying the holiday as I made the mistake of jumping on the scales at the gym. To my chagrin I’ve added another 3kg in under three weeks.
I spent most of the afternoon trying to work out the most economical way for us to travel from KoOlina to Waikiki. Julie ended up finding a site for star taxis which is a discount taxi company. I called them and they quoted $US80 for the trip which is much cheaper than all the other options. I booked the trip and will probably use them for our transfer to the airport from Waikiki as they only charge $US30. www.startaxihawaii.com
The romantic sunset on the beach has been relegated to the back burner as the rain god has chosen to open up the heavens this afternoon. Alice and I stayed in doors but Tony and Julie backed up for a line dancing or boot scooting class. They returned looking all sweaty but a champagne and a beer perked them up. Dinner tonight is at the hotel’s longboard restaurant. There was no need to book as the rain is keeping everybody away including the local entertainer. The food was just okay but the atmosphere made up for it.
Friday, 20th November – Who’ll Stop The Rain
There was no need to hurry out of bed this morning as it is still raining. We checked out of our room at 10:00am and Julie arranged for our bags to be stored and a pass so that we could use the facilities. Tony and I hit the gym again however the girls had to be content with slumming it in the hot tub as all outdoor activities have been cancelled due to the rain.
There were some indoor activities available so Tony and Julie signed up for some Ukulele lessons whilst Alice and I contented ourselves with some light reading. Tony returned with a good understanding of the requisite skills he needed to be a player. Fortunately, for us he did not burst into a rendition of Tiny Tim’s “Tip Toe Through The Tulips”. Our Star Taxi arrived at 2:00pm and it comfortably fitted us all in and had ample room for our luggage. The driver did inform us that the company gets many calls from Australia for airport pickups. All you have to do is contact them the day before you fly out, give them your relevant flight details etc and they will meet you at the airport.
The trip to Waikiki was uneventful and took just under an hour. Our salubrious lodgings will be the not so five star budget Holiday Surf Hotel. It is located about a 10 minute walk to the beach and is next to the Ala Wai Canal on the very busy Ala Wai Boulevard. Our budget price of approximately $US95 per night isn’t too bad as our rooms have a reasonable kitchen with basic utensils. The only downside is that the noise emanating from the vehicular traffic is exacerbated by the squelching rubber on the wet tarmac. Our only solution was to crank up the air conditioner to drown out the noise.
The hotel staff are very helpful and pointed us in the direction of a reasonably sized and priced supermarket. We purchased enough supplies to last us a few days but Tony and I had to return to ensure we had enough beer for our evening respite. When it was time for bed I thought that I had not turned off the light. I then realized that we have a street light directly outside our third storey window which throws a bright yellow light through our threadbare curtains. Fortunately we both managed to drop off to sleep without the usual tossin’ and turnin’.
Saturday, 21st November – Waikiki
This morning we caught up with Sue and Russell at the Outrigger Waikiki Hotel for a look at the Ukulele Guild of Hawaii’s annual exhibition. Some of the instruments that were on display were works of art and were for sale for over $US2000. There were also some groups playing traditional Hawaiian songs accompanied by singers old and young. The rain had eased off so we took a long walk along the shoreline passing the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, U.S. Army museum and the Hilton Hawaiian Village. The latter sits next to the Ala Wai Yacht Club and is a huge complex with its own beach and private lagoon which appears to be well favoured by blushing Japanese brides.
The weather was still quite ordinary so the girls decided that some shop trolling would be a good way to spend some time. Tony and I being perfect husbands quickly acquiesced to their very reasonable request. From the yacht club it was only a short walk to the huge Ala Moana Shopping Centre. We knew that we were on the right path as we could see other tourists happily toting bargains back to their hotels in well filled Macy bags. After a spot of lunch in the food court we bid the girls farewell and set off for a leisurely stroll around the shops. We soon became bored but had a knowing laugh when we saw all the other men sitting in the suffering seats. Tony was looking a tad disheveled and went looking for a barber. He found one that was doing a brisk business which was either a good indication that it was cheap or they were good at their work. With his decision made he entered the shop and was soon in the hands of the world’s oldest hairdressers. She was probably cutting hair when Pearl Harbor was bombed. I was in fear for his ears as I had grave doubts that she could still hold the scissors with a steady hand. Nevertheless his ears remained intact and he emerged looking more handsome than ever. For three hours worth of shopping the girls returned with surprisingly little merchandise. Well there is always tomorrow!
Meanwhile back at the hotel we have freshened ourselves up and are ready to meet Sue and Russell at the Waolina Cocktail Lounge for a pre-dinner cocktail. Russell chose this place as the happy hour runs from noon until six in the evening. The beers were $2, Mai Tai’s $4 and the service terrible. In the hour that we were there we did manage to get two beers. Afterwards we took a long walk back to the Outrigger Hotel for a dinner with the Ukulele Guild. The buffet dinner was good and Tony could not resist going back for seconds as there was so much food leftover. His only mistake was that he did not have a knife or fork as they had already been taken away. Luckily, Sue had a set of used utensils which did the trick. The highlight of the evening was the concert that featured highly skilled Ukulele players who tested their abilities on instruments that were constructed by guild members. It was interesting to have a brief synopsis of the different materials used in construction and the sound that they were trying to achieve. A Japanese maker used a Vienna spruce that was harvested on a full moon light. Apparently that has an impact on the amount of moisture in the timber. A great night, with great music and a perfect way to end the day.
Sunday, 22nd November – Waikiki Rain
Well our walk up to Diamond Head is definitely cancelled for today as it is bucketing down. All this rain is a little unusual so the girls decided that they would check out a few of the local shops. Tony and I dropped them off at the Ross, Dress for Less store with instructions to meet us for lunch at 1:00pm at the Long Yard bar for a late lunch. With the rain pelting down Tony and I headed for some covered walkways which are few and far between on the streets of Waikiki in search of a hot coffee. After all we did not want to start too early at the Long Yard. Eventually we found a good coffee brew house and managed to kill an hour or so by people watching. When the clock struck twelve we headed straight to the bar and pulled up a stool with a good view of the street. There are about 150 beers on tap so we decided to try an IPA sampler. There were six small beers to sample and at a fraction over $US10 reasonable value. The following will be of interest to beer drinkers only and is a small description of our two favourites.
1. Breakside Wunderlust IPA 6.4% from Portland – A golden IPA made with 5 different hops, intense grapefruit and dank notes with a crisp finish.
2. Rouge Farms 7 Hop IPA 8% from Oregon – utilizes all 7 hops grown in the hopyard of Rouge Farms. This blend is then added to 3 varieties of Rouge Farms malt and brewed with free range Oregon costal waters.
As we were finishing off the tasting Alice arrived without any purchases. Fifteen minutes later Julie also arrived in a similar vein. It turns out that they had bought so much booty that they had to return to the hotel. The girls quickly ordered a cocktail and placed an order for lunch. The still thirsty boys were hooked on the IPA so an order for a half yard of Deschutes Inversion IPA was placed. We were still drinking that beastie long after devouring our lunch. As discriminating hop heads and at 6.8% this big, bold IPA’s intense multi-hop kick gets a subtle dose of restraint from select Munich and Caramel malts. As you can tell we think this is an amazing beer.
Back at the hotel the four of us combined our food resources and had a nice cheap dinner which was followed by a reasonably early night.
Monday, 23rd November – Big Fat Rain and Waikele Premium Outlet
The rain is still coming down but the girls are undaunted as they are booked on a Roberts Bus Shuttle ($US15 return) which is leaving Waikiki at 9:30am. We don’t expect them to return until after 6:00pm which means we have a free day. Around 10:30 and in between downpours we caught up with Russell and went for a stroll around Waikiki looking for a coffee shop that had a spare table with dry seats. After much searching we ended up down near the Long Yard and enjoyed a nice strong latte. With the rain still tumbling down we decided that it was time to have a salty dip in the briny waters of Waikiki. After all we couldn’t get any wetter. The water was warm but the area where we chose to swim was full of rocks of all sizes. It wasn’t too deep but you couldn’t see the bottom as the stormy weather had churned up the sand. We lasted for about fifteen minutes which also gave us the opportunity for a code yellow.
Russell had some business to catch up on so we left him to his own devices. We still had a couple of steaks in the refrigerator so a steak sandwich was the order of the day. A quick bus trip and the purchase of a new pair of runners filled in the afternoon. Russell had promised us a couple of beers so we headed up to his hotel. A large Hawaiian woman was on duty so we told her we were here to visit Mr. Russell in room 401. This was when our Basil Fawlty moment occurred. She then asked if we wanted a room. No, I want to visit Russell I replied. What is your room number she said. I don’t have a room, I’m only visiting…. This went backwards and forwards like an old tape recording. Eventually, she looked at the register and said Sue room 206. Seems like Sue was the magic word and Russell does not know his room number!
Anyhow we made it to the room and killed a couple of beers whilst looking out the window in anticipation of the girls return. Being impeccable husbands we decided to meet them at the drop off point to assist them in the carriage of the recently purchased chattels. After waiting for more than 45 minutes we gave up and adjourned to a bar across the road. We had no sooner sat down for a drink when they were spotted walking up the street clutching an array of bags which included Victoria Secret. The bus had apparently dropped them outside the store so they justifiably had spent the last 45 minutes there. We decided to try dinner some Udon Noodles for dinner and chose Marukame Udon Restaurant (Address: 2310 Kuhio Ave). There is always a queue outside which is testament to its popularity and value for money. The wait in line is relatively short as the diners move on once they have eaten. Guests order at the counter at this casual Japanese restaurant specializing in noodle soup. It is not a place for chatting or sipping slowly on a glass of wine. I’m not a fan of noodles but the general opinion was that the food was excellent.
Back at Sue and Russell’s the girls displayed all of the bargains that they had purchased. Alice also did a little shimmy wearing her Victoria Secret outfit. No more to be said about that!
Tuesday, 24th November – Diamond Head
The weather has finally cleared up so after breakfast we jumped on the number 23 bus (number 2 also available) and headed up to Diamond Head ($1 admission) to hike around the crater and the top of the rim. We arrived at the drop off point about 15 minutes later. It was only mid-morning but given the good weather it seemed that every tourist was out to hike the trail. There’s just something empowering about walking up the side of an extinct volcano. More than 3,500 feet in diameter with a 760-foot summit, Diamond Head in Waikiki is perhaps the world’s most recognized volcanic crater. It is a lasting remnant of a volcanic explosion that occurred about 500,000 years ago. Ancient Hawaiians called it Laeahi, which translates to “brow of the tuna.” The name “Diamond Head” can be traced to the 1800s, when British sailors mistakenly thought there were diamonds lodged in the crater’s soil. The “diamonds” turned out to be calcite crystals embedded in the lava rock.
The 0.7-mile hike up Diamond Head is considered a moderate climb and takes about an hour to reach the summit, and half that time for the return. The trail climbs the inside slope of Diamond Head for about 0.6 miles. It’s a switchback trail with the mountain on one side and a railing on the other. After a lookout point that doubles as a rest stop, the trail takes a steep upward ascent through a series of stairs and tunnels. The last set of stairs is a 99-step climb—just take it slow and steady—that eventually leads to a World War II bunker. From there, the stairs reach an end and you step up to some of the finest panoramic views on Oahu. We took a short walk around and savored the moment. The day was clear and in the distance we could see the island of Molokai. Standing atop the lookout, viewing Oahu’s entire leeward side, feeling the trade winds and hearing waves crashing far below, you can’t help but feel humbled to be on this glorious island.
Tip: Go in the early morning or late afternoon if you want to avoid potential crowds.
After a light lunch Alice and I thought it was time to have a swim in the warm waters and gentle swell of Waikiki. My thoughts are that the stretch of sand adjacent to the statue of Duke Kahanamoku is the most ideal spot for a swim. The Duke was an Olympic swimming gold medalist and is widely credited with popularizing the ancient Hawaiian sport of surfing. A patch of sand to place our towels was difficult to find but we finally secured a patch a few rows back from the surf. This is the place to come if you want to learn to surf as it is a gentle wave that starts to form right out the back and has enough power to get you moving. You can swim out for over 100 metres and still touch the bottom. The most dangerous place here is right on the beach as the waves break on the shoreline. After a relaxing swim it was back to the hotel for a mini-break before heading out for dinner.
Julie chose tonight’s destination the Waikiki Sky Lounge after reading a review in the good old Sunday Mail. The lounge is on the 19th floor of Sky Waikiki and as we found out from the surly hostess it is best to have a reservation even if you arrive at 5:00pm. On the deck, you have an almost-360 degree view of Waikiki, including views of the ocean, Diamond Head, Waikiki Beach and the famous, pink Royal Hawaiian hotel. Buildings block some of the dazzling sunset, but you’ll forget about that once the sun goes down and the city’s twinkling lights turn on around you while breathing the fresh air. Surprisingly, that given the view the drinks were reasonably priced. The staff were quite good but on principle we did not leave a tip due to the attitude of the hostess.
Wednesday, 25th November – Pearl Harbor and Swap Meet
We were up bright and early this morning as we are planning to catch public transport out to Pearl Harbor. Alice isn’t 100 percent today so has decided to recuperate at the hotel. Good weather again today so Tony, Julie and I boarded bus 42 (also No.20) at 7:00am and arrived at Pearl right on 8:00am. This coincided with the playing of the National Anthem and out of respect we joined the Americans who were paying homage to the flag. I lined up for tickets and managed to get us on the 8:45am tour. Entry to Pearl Harbor and the 75 minute tour of the USS Arizona Memorial are free. This is the number one visitor destination for Hawaii and given the history it is easy to understand why. The visitor centre features museums, theatres, wayside exhibits and panoramic views of Pearl Harbor. As you travel by launch to the memorial the battleship USS Missouri can be seen in the background. The Arizona Memorial is built over the remains of the sunken battleship USS Arizona, the final resting place for many of the 1,177 crewmen killed on December 7, 1941 when their ship was bombed by Japanese Naval Forces. The tour is a very poignant and emotional reminder of what was a horrific time in our history. As a reminder Darwin was bombed by the Japanese on 19th February, 1942. You could easily spend the whole day here as there is plenty to see with the Missouri and Blowfin exhibits.
After completing our tour of Pearl Harbor we hopped on Shanks’ Pony for ten minutes and dropped in at the Aloha Stadium for the Wednesday Swap meet. We could have caught the bus but it was only two stops up the road. Since 1979, the Aloha Stadium Swap Meet has become Hawaii's premier outdoor market, featuring over 400 vendors, crafters, artists from all over the world, a true melting pot of Aloha.
Thursday, 26th November – Thanksgiving and Circle Tour
When we awoke this morning I couldn’t believe the weather. Yes it is promising to rain on Thanksgiving Day and ruin our day out to the North Shore. After picking up our Chrysler 300 series from Dollar Rentals (If renting a car in Hawaii I would recommend using https://www.hawaiidiscount.com/rental-cars.htm) we picked up the girls and headed in an anticlockwise direction from Waikiki.
The rain is currently holding off so we were able to get a nice view of the Diamond Head Lighthouse from the roadside lookout below the crater. There were a few police cars about but they were doing point duty for what appeared to be a half marathon. Judging by the caliber of runners a few of them should have stayed at home.
With Julie providing the navigation we found our way onto route 72, the Kalaniannaole Highway, try saying that with a mouthful of dry weet-bix. Along the way we stopped off at
· Koko Crater View Point
· Hanauma Bay which is supposed to be a great snorkeling area. There is a $1 charge for vehicles and $7.50 per person. We didn’t avail ourselves of this option as the weather was beginning to get dirty.
· Molokai Lookout
· Halona Blowhole – don’t know if you need big waves to set it off but I’ve seen more smoke from one of my mate Gene’s cigarettes
At the end of route 72 we hung a right onto route 61, Kailua Road so we could have a look at what is supposed to be the best beach on the island. A couple of wrong turns later I thought that I was in Forest Lake with all the cul-de-sacs and roads that turned into each other. Just to top it off there was even a man-made lake. We never did find the beach but Julie did manage to get us onto the H3 and then route 83, the Kamehameha Highway. Alice and Tony were starting to get a bit growly as they both needed some caffeine. We decided to stop for a brew at Kahana but alas like the Polynesian Cultural Centre and the Shrimp Shack it was closed for Thanksgiving. By this time the rain was coming down in torrents and driving was becoming more difficult.
Eventually we spotted a lone roadside diner that had a flashing neon sign in red declaring that it was open. Keneke’s Grill at Punaluu was a godsend in more ways than one. The food was reasonably priced and delicious but what tickled our fantasy was that the entire wall of the dining area was covered in quotes from various bible scriptures. After lunch and a few kilometres up the road we came upon the first of quite a few Shrimp Trucks which are an institution on the North Shore. I couldn’t come all this way without trying some of these tasty crustaceans. The lucky recipient of our $US13 was Fumi’s who cooked up some rice and about 10 prawns in butter and garlic. I reckon we all had great garlic breath after that feed. Tony and Julie also opted for the Dole Pineapple whip ice-cream. I was doing a little bus spotting so on a whim I followed the number 52 into the Turtle Bay Resort. The golf course was immaculate and had the requisite 5 star hotel attached. There were also condominiums butting up against the fairways. I think you would need a pretty penny to stay here.
Finally we reached Hawaii’s big wave area and our first stop was Sunset Beach which appeared to be hosting a leg of the world surfing tour. Even with the rain pelting down finding a parking space was difficult. Alice and Julie braved the wind and the rain and reported that a few brave souls were out testing their mettle against the big surf. Just up the road was the famous Banzai Pipeline and I had a look at the surf which was big but not huge. The lifeguards were on duty but they only had to keep their eyes on a couple of guys.
Further up the road was the turnoff for Waimea Valley and waterfall which we decided to bypass in favour of Waiimea Bay. Surprisingly, there was very little swell and not a soul swimming. At every beach park there were Hawaiian families doing their best to celebrate Thanksgiving. Most of them were stuck under gazebos but one hardy bunch was having a game of volley ball or should I say mud ball. By this time we had just about had enough but we soldiered on to the historic hamlet of Haleiwa. Just about everything was shut so we headed off to route 99, Kamehameha Highway in search of the Dole Pineapple Plantation. The place was jam packed with Japanese tourists who could not get enough of the food and the pineapple inspired souvenirs. My impression was that it was like the old big pineapple at Nambour but with bigger crowds. On a fine day you could have boarded the pineapple express for a tour of the plantation or tried your luck navigating your way through the world’s biggest maze.
Tony and I consider ourselves sensitive new aged guys who are tuned in on the same wavelength as our wives. With this in mind we pointed the Chrysler 300 in the direction of the Waikele Premium Outlet for a last assault on the specials. We arrived just after 4:00pm which was perfect timing as stores like Old Navy were just opening their doors for “Black Friday” specials. The majority of stores will be opening all night and I mean all night and will finally close at midnight on Friday. The girls did manage to acquire a couple of more items. Next sensitive stop was at the Ross Dress For Less located near the Ala Moana Shopping Centre. The girls decided that they would get in early on all the specials so Tony and I left them to their own devices and headed back to Waikiki to return the hire car. It was still raining so we caught the free Dollar shuttle back to the Food Pantry for some supplies. We entertained ourselves with a couple of beers whilst watching all the action unfolding on the street below us. A little after 9:00pm we saw the girls walking down the street carrying more goods than a Sherpa on the Annapurna trail. After showing off their booty it was time for bed and some well earned shut-eye.
Friday, 27th November – Black Friday, Waikiki
This is our penultimate day in Hawaii so we decided to do virtually nothing. Nothing naturally included another trip to Ross, Macy’s and Victoria Secret. I actually came away with the best purchase of the entire trip. At the Ross store I spent $3.99 and came away with a Danos Direct type product. You have probably guessed that it was the “Potato Express” which is used for cooking potatoes in the microwave oven. Yep 4 potatoes can be cooked to perfection in 6 to 8 minutes. www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QTQD354JJc
Tony and I returned to the hotel and the girls said that they would be back soon after. We decided that a swim down near the statue of the Duke would be beneficial to our health. Unlike yesterday the sun was out and so were the sand worshippers. We managed to find a place for our personal gear and spent a good hour just swimming and floating about. To finish off we took a walk around the streets and discovered that you could hire Paddle Boards and Surf Boards at a cheaper rate from the stores about a block back from the beach. Carrying a board an extra block is not a great imposition if it saves you a few dollars whilst giving you a little extra exercise. Back at the hotel and still no sign of the girls. They eventually returned and once again were fully laden. Julie has also made a good decision to purchase a large suitcase from our old friend Ross to ensure that she can transport all our goodies home.
Our last meal tonight is a roast dinner cooked by Julie in her apartment. Tony and I assisted by purchasing some champagne and beers to celebrate what has been a fabulous trip. The meal was delicious and the company even better.
Saturday, 28th November – Homeward Bound
This morning Alice and I decided to treat ourselves to the breakfast special at the Seaside Bar and Grill. As much as I enjoyed the breakfast I find that it is near nigh impossible to consume two huge pancakes on top of bacon and two eggs done easy over. After breakfast we had a last little walk around the shopping precinct before heading back to the hotel to finish packing.
We have pre-booked our Star Taxi for 11:15am for our trip to the Honolulu International Airport. http://www.startaxihawaii.com/ At a cost of $US30 for the four of us it is good value. Our flight is not until 2:35pm so we should have plenty of time to pass through the rigors of Airport Security. The driver was a little early so we ended up at the airport about 3 hours before departure. The check-in line for Hawaiian Airlines looked horrendous but fortunately for us that was for domestic travel. Tip- Allow at least two hours for check-in and security if you are flying domestic out of Honolulu. The international check-in was much more civilized and I estimate that it took only about 25 minutes to complete that process as well as security. The airport seems to be poorly laid out as we had to walk quite a distance to another terminal building to find our departure gate. With a little time to kill before boarding we headed our separate ways for a spot of lunch.
The plane started boarding just before 2:00pm and wasn’t quite full. We have once again been allocated our exit aisle seat which will make it a more relaxing flight home. We really recommend spending the extra $110 to secure one of these berths. Our take-off was spot on time for our 10 hour flight home to Australia. Somewhere before the international dateline Tony and I caught up at the rear of the aircraft for a couple of wines and idle chit-chat. The steward did not need any cajoling to top up our plastic wineglass. Actually, the service from the on-board staff is excellent. A spot of turbulence sent us scurrying back to our seats and another movie.
Sunday, 29th November – Home
One minute it is Saturday and the next it is Sunday and so it goes when you cross the dateline towards Australia. The rest of the flight was uneventful as we cruised towards Brisbane. Touchdown and that feeling of being home starts to overwhelm you. Apart from sitting on the tarmac for 45 minutes after landing it was a good trip. No hassles with immigration apart from Julie and Alice being unrecognizable on their E-Passports (Tip – don’t forget to remove your glasses from your face or top of your head if they are not on the passport photo). No problems either with the baggage or customs. The other nice thing about traveling is when you are met at the airport by family or friends. On this occasion it was Jemma who had volunteered to pick-up the ‘rents’ and it brought a tear to the old boy’s eyes as she gave each of us a welcome home hug.
Wednesday, December 16, 2015
Sunday, November 22, 2015
Hawaii Part 2
Friday, 13th November – Molokai
Early this morning we set off for the island of Molokai which involved another crossing of a major channel. Time wise it was a lot shorter than the last crossing and certainly not as rough. By breakfast time we had docked at the harbor and after a hearty meal boarded some vehicles for a full day trip on land. Our female driver who was of Hawaiian descent soon had us on our way. She was enthusiastic with her commentary as she proudly pointed out every landmark including the swimming pool where she teaches the younger children to swim.
I think we were heading east from the capital of Kaunakakai to the roads end at Halawa Bay. The houses are few and far between and most are positioned in locations that offer uninterrupted views of the ocean. The road petered out to a narrow one lane road but this did not deter our driver who continued to drive with one hand and swivel her head as she pointed out various landmarks. She nearly lost it a couple of times and would have had trouble stopping because of the pieces of fruit and water bottle rolling on the floor near the brake pedal. I nearly forgot to mention that it was also raining which made conditions slippery. We were all glad when she stopped for a photo opportunity which allowed a couple of other drivers to get in front of her. Nevertheless this is a magnificent stretch of coastline that deserves a visit.
They say that Molokai is the only island that still gives you a sense of what the Aloha spirit was like in Hawaii long ago. No stop lights, no high-rises just a welcome slower pace. This was reinforced when we met with some locals for a “talk story” and a chance to experience their land and traditions. They explained that ‘aloha’ actually means love and not hello or goodbye. Other words such as luau have also been bastardized. After a traditional greeting of touching heads and noses we passed by the pig pen and taro patches before hiking to a towering waterfall in Halawa’s Cathedral valley.
After fording a fast flowing stream we hit the narrow winding trail. It has been raining and the track is quite muddy. It wasn’t long before our shoes were covered in sticky black mud that stuck like glue and made the shoes twice as heavy. We did not get very wet as the canopy of the rain forest kept the rain off us. After about an hour of walking we reached our destination where we could sit on the rocks beneath the waterfall.
Tony, Sue, Alice and I were soon into our togs and enjoyed a swim in the large rock pool at the base of the falls. The water was a good depth, cool and refreshing. I could have stayed in longer but didn’t want to miss out on the lunch that the crew had lugged up for our benefit. On our way back down the track appeared to be even muddier. A few of the passengers took nasty falls and ended up with abrasions but fortunately no sprains. When we reached the stream I took the time to give my sandals a good wash but even then I still could not remove all of the mud. The drive back to the boat was a little more sedate which Tony, Russell, Julie and Sue managed to grab a little shut eye. There is nothing like watching a few oldies with swaying heads and drooling mouths.
There is no dinner on board tonight as we are heading up into the hills to the Molokai Museum for a paina (correct word for luau). It was a great evening as we were entertained by a young hula dancer who was accompanied by two musicians who also put on a Hawaiian style jam session. We ate a lot of very delicious home style dishes that were complemented by a couple of great wines. Back at the ship we had a few more drinks prior to packing our bags for disembarkation in the morning.
Saturday, 14th November – Kepuhi Bay
After a hearty breakfast we were transferred to the Molokai Hotel where we will hang around until we are transferred to the airport. No we are not flying out but it made more sense to pick-up our hire car from here as we are staying on Molokai for another three nights.
Prior to heading for the airport we took a shuttle to the small downtown area so we could wander around the Saturday outdoor market. Kaunakakai is virtually unchanged since the early 1900’s and a leisurely walk down Ala Malama Street afforded us an eclectic collection of charming shops, food markets and empty restaurants. Alice, Sue, Russell and I dropped into the bookstore and Terri the owner took time out to explain the ‘things to do’ in Molokai. She is enthusiastic about her home and was happy to share her favourite locations with us. The market was small but had some good quality organic fruit and vegetables for sale as well as some freshly baked pumpkin bread. After a couple of purchases it was back to the hotel so we could take the midday shuttle to the airport.
After picking up our rental car at the airport we headed out to Mauna Loa Highway and traveled west for about 15 miles to Kepuhi Bay. We have rented a two bedroom apartment through Air B&B for the next three nights. Unfortunately our room was not ready but we were able to leave our bags which gave us some time to pick up some supplies. Sue and Russell are not staying with us but that is another story. We said farewell to them at the airport as they are taking a taxi to the Blue Goose Bed and Breakfast which is located at Maunaloa.
We traveled back past the airport and headed up to the village of Hoolehua. The girls were getting a little hungry and stopped at the Cookhouse for a burger and some fries. The food was good and the girls were happy. With a full stomach we crossed the street to the Kulaapuu Market which is a historic plantation store. This is the spot to stock up on supplies such as beer, steak, local foods like poke and household goods. We attempted to track down Sue and Russell but Maunaloa is like a ghost town as there are quite a few empty houses. Tony thought that their host may have been Anthony Perkins.
Our apartment was ready when we arrived back so we wasted no time in settling in. The balcony is the spot to be as it has an amazing view of the water which is only 100 metres away. The sound of the wind and waves crashing on the rocks coupled with a red sunset was a great finish to a long day.
Sunday, 15th November – A Day of Doing Nothing
We managed to track down Sue and Russell so I picked them up for a day out at our apartment. The surf looked appealing so we all headed down to our local beach for some sunbathing. Some local youngsters had their boogie boards out and were catching some great waves from the near perfect swell. Russell looked resplendent in his speedos but his body surfing technique could have been better. The amount of time he spent plowing the sand did a great job of exfoliating his skin and nether regions. He will probably be still getting sand out of his speedos when he is back in Australia.
The girls prepared a great salad and that went well with the sirloin steak that we cooked up on the barbeque. With the going down of the sun it was time to return Russell and Sue to Bates’ Hotel. I only hope that they will be there in the morning! When I returned there was time for a few beers on the balcony with the giant moths which have been attracted by the lounge light. It is a pity as we need to close the doors so that they are kept at bay.
Monday, 16th November – Kalaupapa Mule Tour
We are up nice and early today as we have an 8:00am appointment with a mule. The back of the car is a little cramped as Sue and Russell have survived the night and the six of us are off on a butt testing descent of the Kalaupapa Trail. The mule skinners selected our mounts for us and I suspect it was based on personality rather than the size of the rider. Alice’s mount was named Poele and I was given a spotted Zebra named Stripes who for some reason was the leader of the pack. The trail descends a 1780 foot cliff to the Kalaupapa settlement. It is approximately 3.2 miles in length and has 26 switchbacks. On the descent we had to lean back in the saddle to avoid falling off.
After our jarring descent we all needed a hand to lift our legs out of the saddle. I suppose that is one of the joys of growing old and living dangerously, gold. The second part of our rare adventure on a rusty yellow school bus was about to begin. This isolated plain sitting below some of the world’s highest sea cliffs on the Makanalua Peninsula is a place of astonishing beauty with a harsh history. Because of its isolation and its natural barriers of sea and cliffs the Kingdom of Hawaii, in 1866 chose this place to ship leprosy victims to. They spent the remainder of their days here as prisoners of the land. Today only seven patients remain on the peninsula and they are free to travel as they please. When the last patient dies or leaves then the land will be turned over to the National Park Service.
Our tour included a visit with two of the patients who run a bookstore and café/bar. Our guide was very passionate about the injustice that the leprosy patients suffered in the early years and the work of Mother Marianne who spent many years on Molokai at the turn of the last century. Her gravestone is well looked after. For a small area there are quite a few churches and as the father was in residence we had a pleasant tour of the Catholic Church. Lunch was taken in a pleasant glade overlooking the sea cliffs in the area of Kalawao. This is where the boys were looked after in the early years. This is also the location of St. Philomena Church and the monument to Saint Damien. He spent seven years ministering to the victims of leprosy, building churches and water reservoirs. In the end the disease claimed his life and he became known as the Martyr of Molokai.
By 2:00pm the time had come to hop on our long eared mounts and face the obstacles, precipices and hazards of this treacherous ascent and endure the vicissitudes of the narrow passage between destination and rim. All of that said it was much easier going up than down. Stripes led the way again and would have been first home if not for the withering burst of speed by Julie’s trusty steed. At $US195 per person it is an expensive day trip however we all agreed that it was a great adventure and that being a Mule Skinner for a day can be removed from the bucket list. We still had some time left for some sightseeing so we headed off to the Kalaupapa Lookout which gives you a panoramic view of the settlement. There are also a number of plaques which tell the story of the Leper Colony. There is also another interesting monolith in this area which is known as Phallic Rock. On close inspection you do not need any imagination on how the name was derived.
Back at our apartment we had a couple of drinks with Sue and Russell before taking them to the airport for a night flight to Honolulu. It was lucky that I was driving at a moderate speed because on the way back there were three deer on the road. That encounter was a nice way to finish what was a big day out.
Tuesday, 17th November – Oahu
Check-out time today is 10:00am so we had a leisurely morning and one last walk along our beach. Our flight to Oahu is not until 1:45pm so to kill time we took a drive to Coffees of Hawaii. Every Tuesday at 10:00am the local musicians who are mostly Ukulele players get together for a music jam.
When we arrived there were about twenty musicians and a large crowd packed onto the reasonably large deck of the coffee shop. The music was certainly entertaining and had a real Hawaiian sound. A couple of our entertainers also doubled as hula dancers. We even saw Ted and his wife Joy who were from British Columbia and traveled on the Un-cruise with us. This was a great way to finish our stay on Molokai. In hindsight it would have been good to spend at least five days here and we would certainly recommend our air B&B accommodation. You can also travel by ferry from Molokai to Maui for a different twist on your holidays.
Our flight on Ohana Air departed on time and took about 25 minutes and was as uneventful as they come. It went up, leveled out for enough time for me to go to the toilet and then came down again! After picking up our luggage we quickly found our ride with Speedi-Shuttle and were soon on our way to the Marriott Beach Club at Ko Olina.
Julie has secured us a luxury stay for the next three nights. The adjoining rooms and the facilities is a big step up from the digs that we usually stay in. The resort has all sorts of activities, a good beach, swimming pools, hot spas, gym and steam room just to mention a few. After settling in we jumped on the free shuttle bus driven by a very happy Earle (I’d be happy to if I got as many tips as him) and headed off to the resort shopping centre. Tony and I recognized the signs that the girls were getting a tad hungry so we immediately headed into a Mexican restaurant where we had an early dinner or was it a late lunch. The food was good, filling and reasonably priced. A quick trip into the ABC market and we had enough beer and food supplies to last us for a couple of days.
Wednesday, 18th November – Malingering at the Marriott
After a leisurely breakfast Tony and I hit the gym to burn off some of the additional calories that we have been piling on. I don’t know if it is all the food or the quantity of beer that we have been quaffing down that has caused our bulging mid-riffs. Anyhow we had a good work out while the girls put in a big session at the aqua zumba class.
We spent the afternoon just lazing around the pool and the hot tubs. Tony felt the need for more exercise so we went for an ocean swim at the front of the resort. He estimated that we must have swum the same distance as the Hawaiian Ironmen which was at least 300 metres. After all that exhausting exercise I decided to take some steam at the health club. After all that heat I was extremely relaxed and felt rejuvenated. Tony had the beers chillin’ and we relaxed while we waited for the girls to return from their sunset walks. If we had more sense we would have wooed them with a chilled wine on the beach as the sun sunk below the horizon. Maybe tomorrow!
Early this morning we set off for the island of Molokai which involved another crossing of a major channel. Time wise it was a lot shorter than the last crossing and certainly not as rough. By breakfast time we had docked at the harbor and after a hearty meal boarded some vehicles for a full day trip on land. Our female driver who was of Hawaiian descent soon had us on our way. She was enthusiastic with her commentary as she proudly pointed out every landmark including the swimming pool where she teaches the younger children to swim.
I think we were heading east from the capital of Kaunakakai to the roads end at Halawa Bay. The houses are few and far between and most are positioned in locations that offer uninterrupted views of the ocean. The road petered out to a narrow one lane road but this did not deter our driver who continued to drive with one hand and swivel her head as she pointed out various landmarks. She nearly lost it a couple of times and would have had trouble stopping because of the pieces of fruit and water bottle rolling on the floor near the brake pedal. I nearly forgot to mention that it was also raining which made conditions slippery. We were all glad when she stopped for a photo opportunity which allowed a couple of other drivers to get in front of her. Nevertheless this is a magnificent stretch of coastline that deserves a visit.
They say that Molokai is the only island that still gives you a sense of what the Aloha spirit was like in Hawaii long ago. No stop lights, no high-rises just a welcome slower pace. This was reinforced when we met with some locals for a “talk story” and a chance to experience their land and traditions. They explained that ‘aloha’ actually means love and not hello or goodbye. Other words such as luau have also been bastardized. After a traditional greeting of touching heads and noses we passed by the pig pen and taro patches before hiking to a towering waterfall in Halawa’s Cathedral valley.
After fording a fast flowing stream we hit the narrow winding trail. It has been raining and the track is quite muddy. It wasn’t long before our shoes were covered in sticky black mud that stuck like glue and made the shoes twice as heavy. We did not get very wet as the canopy of the rain forest kept the rain off us. After about an hour of walking we reached our destination where we could sit on the rocks beneath the waterfall.
Tony, Sue, Alice and I were soon into our togs and enjoyed a swim in the large rock pool at the base of the falls. The water was a good depth, cool and refreshing. I could have stayed in longer but didn’t want to miss out on the lunch that the crew had lugged up for our benefit. On our way back down the track appeared to be even muddier. A few of the passengers took nasty falls and ended up with abrasions but fortunately no sprains. When we reached the stream I took the time to give my sandals a good wash but even then I still could not remove all of the mud. The drive back to the boat was a little more sedate which Tony, Russell, Julie and Sue managed to grab a little shut eye. There is nothing like watching a few oldies with swaying heads and drooling mouths.
There is no dinner on board tonight as we are heading up into the hills to the Molokai Museum for a paina (correct word for luau). It was a great evening as we were entertained by a young hula dancer who was accompanied by two musicians who also put on a Hawaiian style jam session. We ate a lot of very delicious home style dishes that were complemented by a couple of great wines. Back at the ship we had a few more drinks prior to packing our bags for disembarkation in the morning.
Saturday, 14th November – Kepuhi Bay
After a hearty breakfast we were transferred to the Molokai Hotel where we will hang around until we are transferred to the airport. No we are not flying out but it made more sense to pick-up our hire car from here as we are staying on Molokai for another three nights.
Prior to heading for the airport we took a shuttle to the small downtown area so we could wander around the Saturday outdoor market. Kaunakakai is virtually unchanged since the early 1900’s and a leisurely walk down Ala Malama Street afforded us an eclectic collection of charming shops, food markets and empty restaurants. Alice, Sue, Russell and I dropped into the bookstore and Terri the owner took time out to explain the ‘things to do’ in Molokai. She is enthusiastic about her home and was happy to share her favourite locations with us. The market was small but had some good quality organic fruit and vegetables for sale as well as some freshly baked pumpkin bread. After a couple of purchases it was back to the hotel so we could take the midday shuttle to the airport.
After picking up our rental car at the airport we headed out to Mauna Loa Highway and traveled west for about 15 miles to Kepuhi Bay. We have rented a two bedroom apartment through Air B&B for the next three nights. Unfortunately our room was not ready but we were able to leave our bags which gave us some time to pick up some supplies. Sue and Russell are not staying with us but that is another story. We said farewell to them at the airport as they are taking a taxi to the Blue Goose Bed and Breakfast which is located at Maunaloa.
We traveled back past the airport and headed up to the village of Hoolehua. The girls were getting a little hungry and stopped at the Cookhouse for a burger and some fries. The food was good and the girls were happy. With a full stomach we crossed the street to the Kulaapuu Market which is a historic plantation store. This is the spot to stock up on supplies such as beer, steak, local foods like poke and household goods. We attempted to track down Sue and Russell but Maunaloa is like a ghost town as there are quite a few empty houses. Tony thought that their host may have been Anthony Perkins.
Our apartment was ready when we arrived back so we wasted no time in settling in. The balcony is the spot to be as it has an amazing view of the water which is only 100 metres away. The sound of the wind and waves crashing on the rocks coupled with a red sunset was a great finish to a long day.
Sunday, 15th November – A Day of Doing Nothing
We managed to track down Sue and Russell so I picked them up for a day out at our apartment. The surf looked appealing so we all headed down to our local beach for some sunbathing. Some local youngsters had their boogie boards out and were catching some great waves from the near perfect swell. Russell looked resplendent in his speedos but his body surfing technique could have been better. The amount of time he spent plowing the sand did a great job of exfoliating his skin and nether regions. He will probably be still getting sand out of his speedos when he is back in Australia.
The girls prepared a great salad and that went well with the sirloin steak that we cooked up on the barbeque. With the going down of the sun it was time to return Russell and Sue to Bates’ Hotel. I only hope that they will be there in the morning! When I returned there was time for a few beers on the balcony with the giant moths which have been attracted by the lounge light. It is a pity as we need to close the doors so that they are kept at bay.
Monday, 16th November – Kalaupapa Mule Tour
We are up nice and early today as we have an 8:00am appointment with a mule. The back of the car is a little cramped as Sue and Russell have survived the night and the six of us are off on a butt testing descent of the Kalaupapa Trail. The mule skinners selected our mounts for us and I suspect it was based on personality rather than the size of the rider. Alice’s mount was named Poele and I was given a spotted Zebra named Stripes who for some reason was the leader of the pack. The trail descends a 1780 foot cliff to the Kalaupapa settlement. It is approximately 3.2 miles in length and has 26 switchbacks. On the descent we had to lean back in the saddle to avoid falling off.
After our jarring descent we all needed a hand to lift our legs out of the saddle. I suppose that is one of the joys of growing old and living dangerously, gold. The second part of our rare adventure on a rusty yellow school bus was about to begin. This isolated plain sitting below some of the world’s highest sea cliffs on the Makanalua Peninsula is a place of astonishing beauty with a harsh history. Because of its isolation and its natural barriers of sea and cliffs the Kingdom of Hawaii, in 1866 chose this place to ship leprosy victims to. They spent the remainder of their days here as prisoners of the land. Today only seven patients remain on the peninsula and they are free to travel as they please. When the last patient dies or leaves then the land will be turned over to the National Park Service.
Our tour included a visit with two of the patients who run a bookstore and café/bar. Our guide was very passionate about the injustice that the leprosy patients suffered in the early years and the work of Mother Marianne who spent many years on Molokai at the turn of the last century. Her gravestone is well looked after. For a small area there are quite a few churches and as the father was in residence we had a pleasant tour of the Catholic Church. Lunch was taken in a pleasant glade overlooking the sea cliffs in the area of Kalawao. This is where the boys were looked after in the early years. This is also the location of St. Philomena Church and the monument to Saint Damien. He spent seven years ministering to the victims of leprosy, building churches and water reservoirs. In the end the disease claimed his life and he became known as the Martyr of Molokai.
By 2:00pm the time had come to hop on our long eared mounts and face the obstacles, precipices and hazards of this treacherous ascent and endure the vicissitudes of the narrow passage between destination and rim. All of that said it was much easier going up than down. Stripes led the way again and would have been first home if not for the withering burst of speed by Julie’s trusty steed. At $US195 per person it is an expensive day trip however we all agreed that it was a great adventure and that being a Mule Skinner for a day can be removed from the bucket list. We still had some time left for some sightseeing so we headed off to the Kalaupapa Lookout which gives you a panoramic view of the settlement. There are also a number of plaques which tell the story of the Leper Colony. There is also another interesting monolith in this area which is known as Phallic Rock. On close inspection you do not need any imagination on how the name was derived.
Back at our apartment we had a couple of drinks with Sue and Russell before taking them to the airport for a night flight to Honolulu. It was lucky that I was driving at a moderate speed because on the way back there were three deer on the road. That encounter was a nice way to finish what was a big day out.
Tuesday, 17th November – Oahu
Check-out time today is 10:00am so we had a leisurely morning and one last walk along our beach. Our flight to Oahu is not until 1:45pm so to kill time we took a drive to Coffees of Hawaii. Every Tuesday at 10:00am the local musicians who are mostly Ukulele players get together for a music jam.
When we arrived there were about twenty musicians and a large crowd packed onto the reasonably large deck of the coffee shop. The music was certainly entertaining and had a real Hawaiian sound. A couple of our entertainers also doubled as hula dancers. We even saw Ted and his wife Joy who were from British Columbia and traveled on the Un-cruise with us. This was a great way to finish our stay on Molokai. In hindsight it would have been good to spend at least five days here and we would certainly recommend our air B&B accommodation. You can also travel by ferry from Molokai to Maui for a different twist on your holidays.
Our flight on Ohana Air departed on time and took about 25 minutes and was as uneventful as they come. It went up, leveled out for enough time for me to go to the toilet and then came down again! After picking up our luggage we quickly found our ride with Speedi-Shuttle and were soon on our way to the Marriott Beach Club at Ko Olina.
Julie has secured us a luxury stay for the next three nights. The adjoining rooms and the facilities is a big step up from the digs that we usually stay in. The resort has all sorts of activities, a good beach, swimming pools, hot spas, gym and steam room just to mention a few. After settling in we jumped on the free shuttle bus driven by a very happy Earle (I’d be happy to if I got as many tips as him) and headed off to the resort shopping centre. Tony and I recognized the signs that the girls were getting a tad hungry so we immediately headed into a Mexican restaurant where we had an early dinner or was it a late lunch. The food was good, filling and reasonably priced. A quick trip into the ABC market and we had enough beer and food supplies to last us for a couple of days.
Wednesday, 18th November – Malingering at the Marriott
After a leisurely breakfast Tony and I hit the gym to burn off some of the additional calories that we have been piling on. I don’t know if it is all the food or the quantity of beer that we have been quaffing down that has caused our bulging mid-riffs. Anyhow we had a good work out while the girls put in a big session at the aqua zumba class.
We spent the afternoon just lazing around the pool and the hot tubs. Tony felt the need for more exercise so we went for an ocean swim at the front of the resort. He estimated that we must have swum the same distance as the Hawaiian Ironmen which was at least 300 metres. After all that exhausting exercise I decided to take some steam at the health club. After all that heat I was extremely relaxed and felt rejuvenated. Tony had the beers chillin’ and we relaxed while we waited for the girls to return from their sunset walks. If we had more sense we would have wooed them with a chilled wine on the beach as the sun sunk below the horizon. Maybe tomorrow!
ADVENTURES IN ECONOMY – HAWAII
Day 1, Thursday 5th November – Double Thursday
Melbourne Cup has come and gone for another year and it is now time to tote up our luggage for another adventure. Ever since I was a young boy I dreamed of surfing the big waves of Hawaii and that was reinforced by television shows such as Hawaii Five-O and Magnum P.I. Just like Tom Selleck’s shorts the big wave surfing has been consigned to the scrap heap but at least Alice and I will have the opportunity to witness the amazing landscape and just perhaps, a few big waves.
After a fine dinner on Thursday evening Jemma kindly delivered Tony, Julie, Alice and me to Brisbane International Airport. Everything went smoothly right up until the time we were scheduled to takeoff. We were sitting in our premium seats with the extra legroom when the airport was lashed by a huge electrical storm. The announcement came over the intercom that all flights were to be delayed. After one hour of sitting on the tarmac the call finally came that we would be taking off. Our flight was largely uneventful and I managed to grab about five hours of sleep which is a record for me. As we flew over Tonga our second Thursday arrived as we crossed the international date line.
Due to our delay in Brisbane we only had 1 hour and twenty minutes to make our connecting flight to the big island of Hawaii. I needed to pee so Alice waited patiently for me in the immigration line. By the time I emerged from the toilet Tony and Julie had cleared immigration but we still had twenty minutes to wait before we cleared. After picking up our luggage we had to hightail it to the domestic terminal which was located in another building. The way finding signage and lack of ground staff to direct us slowed us even further. We spotted Julie and Tony in the security line and they were able to give us directions on where to drop our luggage. In the short period that we were dropping off the bags the security closed the line and ordered us outside to join a queue which extended out onto the footpath. The security people are woeful as they only think about what is happening inside their own box. It is of no concern to them if your plane arrived late and you are going to miss your connecting flight.
Fortunately one of the staff who keeps the queue moving assisted us and pointed us to a security line that was opening up. Without her help we would have still been in the long and winding queue. My stress levels were up with all the rushing around and it was with a sigh of relief that we joined Julie and Tony at the boarding gate. I threw everything on a seat and tried to catch my breath. In a nanosecond things went from good to bad as I could not find my wallet which had all my cards and a large amount of cash in it. I started to panic and rushed back to security in case I had left it in the basket. No luck and I was really stressing out. When I returned to the others they could see that I had a shattered look on my face. I had resigned myself to the fact that I had lost it when a guy who had been sitting nearby asked if we had lost something. He then pointed to the offending black wallet that had camouflaged itself against the black cloth of the chair where I had originally dumped my bag. My stress levels dropped away instantaneously and I was so thankful for his honesty.
After touching down on what was a very brief 35 minute flight we picked up our hire car from Dollar. Even the five kilometer traffic jam that we encountered after leaving the airport could not dampen our spirits. We have booked a two bedroom flat that is attached to a house on the hillside of Kona. We are using Air BnB for the first time and can say that the room is as advertised. We have a great view from the Lanai (patio) and the sunset promises to be smashing. The only downside is that we have to walk through one of the bedrooms to access the toilet. Tony and I went for a drive to Walmart and picked up a few supplies for our evening meal. We managed to find some fruit, peanuts, chips and of course a few beers which we enjoyed on the lanai.
Friday, 6th November – Touring Around
A restful night’s sleep was had by all and after a hearty breakfast we hit the road. We did not have much of a plan but decided to head south towards the volcano. After a couple of minor detours the urge for a coffee overwhelmed us. There is no shortage of coffee here as the big island is famous for their Kona brew. We were in the Kealakekua Bay area which just happened to have a coffee plantation and a museum right on the highway. There was a great view from the back deck and it wasn’t long before we were knocking back free samples of the different brews. The girls bought a couple of postcards which helped to offset the dozen or so samples that Tony and I tried.
On the road again and we decided to turn off the highway and take a look at the Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park. There was an exorbitant entrance fee of $3 per person and $5 for the car so we parked outside and opted for a free walk down to the bay. This was a great area for snorkeling but alas we only had our bathers. Tony and I opted for a swim and enjoyed a relaxing twenty minutes in the crystal clear water. Back in the car we decided to keep heading south as there was a town shown on the map called Ocean View which we thought would be a great spot for lunch.
It did not look far on the map but it still took another hour to get there. The town was so small that before we knew it we were beyond the town limits. We had seen a sign for a Hawaiian Barbeque that promised to sate our rumbling stomachs. After executing an immaculate U turn on the highway we headed back for the promised lunch. The girls immediately vetoed lunch at this establishment as the smell of the deep fryers and the behemoth clientele indicated that our arteries would soon be clogged with saturated fats. In the end we opted for a foot long pastrami roll that we shared four ways. With our hunger under control it was good bye to Ocean View which by the way did not have an ocean view.
Heading north again we dropped in for a look at Hookena Beach Park which was about a two mile deviation. It had a camping area which was closed and a reasonable sandy beach for swimming. The one thing we have noticed is that the coastline is mostly rocky headlands dotted with a few sandy beaches. Our trip back was delayed as there appeared to be a major accident that had blocked the highway. A police officer gave us some directions to get around the blockage which involved a long detour on narrow roads. We followed the flow and were heading in the right direction until I failed to follow Julie’s advice and ended up at a bay whose name I can’t remember. At least we had a chance to stretch our legs and have a rest break.
For dinner tonight we have decided to head downtown and try out Kona’s Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. It is located right on the water but unfortunately we missed out on a waterfront table. After sharing a mixed entrée we all opted for different versions of the shrimp except for Tony who decided an American beef burger was the way to go. All this was washed down with wine, cocktails and liquid aloha courtesy of Kona Brewing. There was plenty of food but none of us could finish what we ordered. The Bubba Gump concept and theme is brilliant but just a little too much of the deep fry for my delicate taste buds. They do have T-shirts for sale and given my track record Alice thought I should purchase the “I Gotta Pee” shirt. The bill with a tip came in at $US194 which was a little more than we bargained for.
Saturday, 7th November – Zumba in Hawaii.
Alice has managed to track down a Zumba class in Kailua-Kona that kicks off at 9:30am. Whilst Julie and she are taking their exercise class Tony and I have been delegated to find an establishment that can print and scan documents. No problem for Ace Ventura and his sidekick as we found a place that met the prerequisite requirements. Tony and I retrieved Julie’s I-pad and then picked up a pair of sweaty girls from their class. They both gave it a thumbs up. By 11:30 we had completed our office duties and were ready to return the car to the airport.
After dropping the girls and the bags off at the Hawaiian airlines baggage carousel we returned the car. The shuttle bus was about to leave so we sprinted and just managed to catch it. Wouldn’t you know it, an Australian drawl said gidday and right before us were Sue and Russell our friends from Australia who will be joining us for our seven day Un-Cruise adventure. You may well ask what were we doing at an airport if we were about to embark on a cruise. The answer to that riddle was that we had to catch their shuttle bus with passengers who were just arriving. Our destination is Kawaihae Harbour which is about 30 miles north of the airport.
The Un-Cruise meet and greet was occurring at the Hapuna Beach Prince resort. After dropping off our bags we had a free run of the resort which has its own golf course and a beautiful beach right on Hapuna Bay. Unfortunately, we did not have access to our togs so we had to settle for a beer around the palm tree shrouded pool which overlooks one of the best beaches on the island. I did get some sand between the toes when I took a long walk along the beach. Around 5:00pm along with the other thirty two guests we boarded our vessel, the Safari Explorer for our week long sea odyssey. In hindsight it would have been ideal to spend about six days on the Big Island with the last two days at the aforementioned resort. Anyway after changing into some suitable attire (shorts and t-shirt) we joined the other guests for a delicious meal and a significant amount of alcohol which is included in our cruise price.
Sunday, 8th November – Pacific Manta Rays
This morning the boys are all a little seedy. I think it is a combination of last night’s beer consumption and the constant rolling of our small ship. We have anchored in Honomalino Bay just off Kailua-Kona where we will have an introductory snorkeling lesson. After collecting all of our equipment we were off in the skiff to a site that was surrounded by lava tubes and imposing basalt cliff face. Of course there was a Jack Nickalus designed golf course hugging the coast line. The snorkeling site was safe enough for everyone but on a scale of one to ten I would give it a three. It was just too deep to get a good feel for the marine life at this location.
Back on board we relaxed with lunch which was followed by an early dinner. We were anchored off shore from the Sheraton resort at Keauhou Bay for a night snorkel with giant Pacific Manta Rays. This activity is supposed to be ranked at number 3 in the top things to do before you die. Judging by the number of boats and lights in the water quite a few people were going to tick this one off their bucket list. We were all provided with wetsuits and around 6:30pm we jumped in the skiff for a short ride to where the Mantas hang out.
The setup for viewing the Mantas is quite ingenious as you are broken up into groups of six and then assigned to a paddle board. The boards have a hole in the centre which holds a powerful light that is used to attract the plankton. Once you have enough plankton the Mantas swoop in and enjoy a big Hawaiian feast. We kicked our paddle board over to an area where they had sighted a few and in no time we were witnessing these beautiful creatures gliding gracefully through the water only metres from us. Some displayed their maneuverability by executing perfect loop the loops. We spent about 45 minutes in the water and all agreed that it was an amazing experience. www.mantarayshawaii.com
Back on board we were treated to a late happy hour that extended way past my bedtime.
Monday, 9th November – Captain Cook
This morning we boarded some skiffs which are operated by Captain Zodiac for a fast trip to Kealakekua Bay for some of the islands best snorkeling. Coincidentally it just happens that this was the spot where Captain Cook was slain in 1779. It is suspected that the Hawaiians attached religious significance to the first stay of the Europeans on their islands. In Cook’s second visit, there was no question of this phenomenon. Kealakekua Bay was considered the sacred harbor of Lono, the fertility god of the Hawaiians, and at the time of Cook’s arrival the locals were engaged in a festival dedicated to Lono. Cook and his compatriots were welcomed as gods and for the next month exploited the Hawaiians’ good will. After one of the crewmen died, exposing the Europeans as mere mortals, relations became strained. On February 4, 1779, the British ships sailed from Kealakekua Bay, but rough seas damaged the foremast of the Resolution, and after only a week at sea the expedition was forced to return to Hawaii.
The Hawaiians greeted Cook and his men by hurling rocks; they then stole a small cutter vessel from the Discovery. Negotiations with King Kalaniopuu for the return of the cutter collapsed after a lesser Hawaiian chief was shot to death and a mob of Hawaiians descended on Cook’s party. The captain and his men fired on the angry Hawaiians, but they were soon overwhelmed, and only a few managed to escape to the safety of the Resolution. Captain Cook himself was killed by the mob. A few days later, the Englishmen retaliated by firing their cannons and muskets at the shore, killing some 30 Hawaiians. The Resolution and Discovery eventually returned to England.
The snorkeling here was excellent as the area is a marine park and the water visibility is a good 25 metres. There were plenty of reef fish and the hard corals were in great condition. Back on board the boys fired up the powerful twin outboards and headed over to the cliff face to show us some lava tubes and sacred Hawaiian sites. Being surrounded by water was having an impact on my rather weak bladder. I relayed my distress to the crew member who yelled out to the captain that they had a ‘code yellow’. A few minutes later I was allowed to jump over the side to relieve my stress. To my satisfaction I was joined by another passenger who seemed to be visibly relaxing.
After lunch it was time for some shore leave in downtown Kailua-Kona. We docked next door to the Sheraton Hotel which has a full sized wooden replica of an outrigger canoe. Our little Un-cruise treat was a half hour paddle in a six man fiberglass outrigger which was skippered by an enthusiastic young Hawaiian. The six of us were soon powering our way out into the harbor. We were so good that they could have used us on a trailer for Hawaii Five O or maybe not. Out in the harbor we did get up close and personal with some spinner dolphins and their young. Afterwards Alice and I trolled a few shops and sites such as Queen Hulihe’e Palace and the Moku’aikaua Church. We then caught the 4:00pm skiff back to the boat as we have booked a free 45 minute massage.
Looking good and feeling relaxed we settled in for cocktails and another sumptuous meal. The captain gave us a talk about our crossing tonight as it is expected to get a tad rough as we motor to Maui. In preparation for our assault on the channel Tony and I armed ourselves by consuming quite a few beers. We knew it was time for bed when the staff started to glad wrap the cupboards to stop them from flying open.
Tuesday, 10th November – West Maui
We knew when the ship was in the major channel as it started to heave left, right, up and down which meant sleep was nigh impossible. Alice had a nasty fall when she attempted to go to the toilet. She went flying backwards and crashed onto the floor. Her arm was severely bruised and she was lucky not to have hurt herself more. At breakfast most of the passengers looked like they had a hard night but that has not stopped us from signing up for some kayaking.
The six of us are on the second kayak trip so we have time for a swim and a paddle board off the back of the ship. I had a go at the stand up paddle board but my effort should have been called fall down boarding. No matter how hard I tried I kept falling off in spectacular fashion. In the end I gave up as I popped a rib cartilage when pulling myself onto the board. Russell fared no better than me but Sue was the queen for the day because she eventually mastered it.
Joe and Joyce who were on the first kayak trip returned on the skiff. They were soaking wet and had to be brought back as they just could not get back on board the kayak. Joe claimed they were torpedoed by a Japanese submarine. Our kayaking was less adventurous but we did manage to cover a bit of territory. Our guide Mitch did manage to show us a couple of sea turtles that were hunting over a small reef just off the shore. As we headed back to the ship and lunch I thought Sue and Russell had other activities planned. They set an outstanding pace as they powered away from the rest of us.
No need to guess what we did after lunch, yes it was another snorkel. Once again the water was crystal clear and teeming with underwater life and coral gardens. Back on board Tony has opted for an afternoon sleep and abstained from drinking alcohol. He is the only man I know who abstains from drinking when it is all inclusive. Power to his resilience!
Wednesday, 11th November – Turtles and Lahaina Town
The captain has altered our schedule for today as we need to get a plumber on board to unblock one of the toilets. This gave us the opportunity to snorkel at the old Mala Warf which was a fishing pier that was destroyed in 1992 by hurricane Iniki. The pylons of the pier and the platform lie scattered on the sea bed providing structure for the many species of fish. The pier has White Tip Reef Sharks, lots of schooling fish, Frogfish, Nudibranchs, and Turtles. Julie who is a non-swimmer and deathly afraid of sharks was certain she saw one. We were not so fortunate but we all spent a great deal of time swimming with at least ten turtles. There were even a couple of small juvenile turtles swimming near their parents. We all love a good collective noun but I cannot understand how they could come up with a “bale of turtles”. Thanks to the turtles we had an amazing snorkeling trip.
After lunch we had a chance to stretch our legs with a walk around Lahaina town. Our tour coordinator gave us a map that had a short walk which gave us a good feel for the history of the town. There was a craft market which was set up under the shade of a massive Banyan tree which nearly covered the entire block. Alice certainly enjoyed the market as it took me some time to extricate her from its spell. She did see a nice photograph and I promised to return later to consider its purchase.
We continued on our walk and saw a wedding in progress at the local Episcopal Church. Later on we learned that Sue had photo bombed the wedding and had her picture taken with the happy gay couple. Some of the other sites included the old courthouse, the old prison and churches of all denominations. There were also some old Hawaiian sites such as The Kings Taro Patch, Brick Palace (only a few left) of Kamehameha 1 and the Hauola Stone which was used by high ranking women to give birth on. It was getting a bit hot so we tucked into a local favourite to cool us down. It was a shaved ice which had ice-cream in the middle and flavoured with cordial. We did return to the market and I was impressed by the photograph that Alice had chosen. Quite a few dollars later we left the market with a photo that will hang gracefully at Currimundi.
Back on board I managed to convince Tony that he should enjoy a slight tipple at happy hour. We had a couple before enjoying a presentation by the local team leader who is responsible for freeing whales from nets and fishing lines.
Thursday, 12th November – Lanai the Pineapple Island
Early this morning our captain navigated his way to the nearby Island of Lanai. The wind was blowing at a good rate so the boarding of the skiffs was a little hairy. Only Sue, Russell and I are up for this morning’s snorkeling trip at the aptly named shark fin rock. Once again the water is crystal clear and as a result great for taking underwater pictures. Russell was trying out his camera managed to take quite a few good shots of the large school of Angel Fish and our attractive bartender, Erica.
After lunch we jumped into a couple of vans for a short drive to the small settlement town of Lanai City. At an elevation of 3000 feet the air is definitely cooler. Most of the native Hawaiians live here and there are a few craft shops as well as a small museum. We learned that by the 1870s, Walter Gibson had acquired most of the land on the island for ranching. Prior to this he had used it as a Mormon colony. In 1899, his daughter and son-in-law formed Maunalei Sugar Company, headquartered in Keomuku. The company failed in 1901. Many native Hawaiians continued to live along the less arid windward coast, supporting themselves by ranching and fishing.
In 1922, James Dole, the president of Hawaiian Pineapple Company, developed a large portion of it into the world's largest pineapple plantation.
With Hawaii Statehood in 1959, Lānaʻi became part of the County of Maui.
In 1985, Lānaʻi passed into the control of David H. Murdock, as a result of his purchase of Castle & Cooke, then owner of Dole.
In June 2012, Larry Ellison, then CEO of Oracle purchased Castle & Cooke's 98 percent share of the island. The state owns the remaining 2 percent. The sale price was not revealed, but the Maui News previously reported the asking price was between $500 million and $600 million. Ellison reportedly plans to invest as much as another $500 million to add to and improve the island's infrastructure and to create an environmentally friendly agricultural industry.
Our time here was limited as we were doing a short hike at Manele Bay where Larry Olsen has one of his Four Season Resorts. The beach here is quite beautiful and attracts day visitors from Maui who come across on the ferry. Our walk took us out to the point where we had a great view of Kaneapua Rock. There looks to be some sort of altar on top which was built ages ago. How they managed to get the rocks up there is anybody’s guess
Melbourne Cup has come and gone for another year and it is now time to tote up our luggage for another adventure. Ever since I was a young boy I dreamed of surfing the big waves of Hawaii and that was reinforced by television shows such as Hawaii Five-O and Magnum P.I. Just like Tom Selleck’s shorts the big wave surfing has been consigned to the scrap heap but at least Alice and I will have the opportunity to witness the amazing landscape and just perhaps, a few big waves.
After a fine dinner on Thursday evening Jemma kindly delivered Tony, Julie, Alice and me to Brisbane International Airport. Everything went smoothly right up until the time we were scheduled to takeoff. We were sitting in our premium seats with the extra legroom when the airport was lashed by a huge electrical storm. The announcement came over the intercom that all flights were to be delayed. After one hour of sitting on the tarmac the call finally came that we would be taking off. Our flight was largely uneventful and I managed to grab about five hours of sleep which is a record for me. As we flew over Tonga our second Thursday arrived as we crossed the international date line.
Due to our delay in Brisbane we only had 1 hour and twenty minutes to make our connecting flight to the big island of Hawaii. I needed to pee so Alice waited patiently for me in the immigration line. By the time I emerged from the toilet Tony and Julie had cleared immigration but we still had twenty minutes to wait before we cleared. After picking up our luggage we had to hightail it to the domestic terminal which was located in another building. The way finding signage and lack of ground staff to direct us slowed us even further. We spotted Julie and Tony in the security line and they were able to give us directions on where to drop our luggage. In the short period that we were dropping off the bags the security closed the line and ordered us outside to join a queue which extended out onto the footpath. The security people are woeful as they only think about what is happening inside their own box. It is of no concern to them if your plane arrived late and you are going to miss your connecting flight.
Fortunately one of the staff who keeps the queue moving assisted us and pointed us to a security line that was opening up. Without her help we would have still been in the long and winding queue. My stress levels were up with all the rushing around and it was with a sigh of relief that we joined Julie and Tony at the boarding gate. I threw everything on a seat and tried to catch my breath. In a nanosecond things went from good to bad as I could not find my wallet which had all my cards and a large amount of cash in it. I started to panic and rushed back to security in case I had left it in the basket. No luck and I was really stressing out. When I returned to the others they could see that I had a shattered look on my face. I had resigned myself to the fact that I had lost it when a guy who had been sitting nearby asked if we had lost something. He then pointed to the offending black wallet that had camouflaged itself against the black cloth of the chair where I had originally dumped my bag. My stress levels dropped away instantaneously and I was so thankful for his honesty.
After touching down on what was a very brief 35 minute flight we picked up our hire car from Dollar. Even the five kilometer traffic jam that we encountered after leaving the airport could not dampen our spirits. We have booked a two bedroom flat that is attached to a house on the hillside of Kona. We are using Air BnB for the first time and can say that the room is as advertised. We have a great view from the Lanai (patio) and the sunset promises to be smashing. The only downside is that we have to walk through one of the bedrooms to access the toilet. Tony and I went for a drive to Walmart and picked up a few supplies for our evening meal. We managed to find some fruit, peanuts, chips and of course a few beers which we enjoyed on the lanai.
Friday, 6th November – Touring Around
A restful night’s sleep was had by all and after a hearty breakfast we hit the road. We did not have much of a plan but decided to head south towards the volcano. After a couple of minor detours the urge for a coffee overwhelmed us. There is no shortage of coffee here as the big island is famous for their Kona brew. We were in the Kealakekua Bay area which just happened to have a coffee plantation and a museum right on the highway. There was a great view from the back deck and it wasn’t long before we were knocking back free samples of the different brews. The girls bought a couple of postcards which helped to offset the dozen or so samples that Tony and I tried.
On the road again and we decided to turn off the highway and take a look at the Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park. There was an exorbitant entrance fee of $3 per person and $5 for the car so we parked outside and opted for a free walk down to the bay. This was a great area for snorkeling but alas we only had our bathers. Tony and I opted for a swim and enjoyed a relaxing twenty minutes in the crystal clear water. Back in the car we decided to keep heading south as there was a town shown on the map called Ocean View which we thought would be a great spot for lunch.
It did not look far on the map but it still took another hour to get there. The town was so small that before we knew it we were beyond the town limits. We had seen a sign for a Hawaiian Barbeque that promised to sate our rumbling stomachs. After executing an immaculate U turn on the highway we headed back for the promised lunch. The girls immediately vetoed lunch at this establishment as the smell of the deep fryers and the behemoth clientele indicated that our arteries would soon be clogged with saturated fats. In the end we opted for a foot long pastrami roll that we shared four ways. With our hunger under control it was good bye to Ocean View which by the way did not have an ocean view.
Heading north again we dropped in for a look at Hookena Beach Park which was about a two mile deviation. It had a camping area which was closed and a reasonable sandy beach for swimming. The one thing we have noticed is that the coastline is mostly rocky headlands dotted with a few sandy beaches. Our trip back was delayed as there appeared to be a major accident that had blocked the highway. A police officer gave us some directions to get around the blockage which involved a long detour on narrow roads. We followed the flow and were heading in the right direction until I failed to follow Julie’s advice and ended up at a bay whose name I can’t remember. At least we had a chance to stretch our legs and have a rest break.
For dinner tonight we have decided to head downtown and try out Kona’s Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. It is located right on the water but unfortunately we missed out on a waterfront table. After sharing a mixed entrée we all opted for different versions of the shrimp except for Tony who decided an American beef burger was the way to go. All this was washed down with wine, cocktails and liquid aloha courtesy of Kona Brewing. There was plenty of food but none of us could finish what we ordered. The Bubba Gump concept and theme is brilliant but just a little too much of the deep fry for my delicate taste buds. They do have T-shirts for sale and given my track record Alice thought I should purchase the “I Gotta Pee” shirt. The bill with a tip came in at $US194 which was a little more than we bargained for.
Saturday, 7th November – Zumba in Hawaii.
Alice has managed to track down a Zumba class in Kailua-Kona that kicks off at 9:30am. Whilst Julie and she are taking their exercise class Tony and I have been delegated to find an establishment that can print and scan documents. No problem for Ace Ventura and his sidekick as we found a place that met the prerequisite requirements. Tony and I retrieved Julie’s I-pad and then picked up a pair of sweaty girls from their class. They both gave it a thumbs up. By 11:30 we had completed our office duties and were ready to return the car to the airport.
After dropping the girls and the bags off at the Hawaiian airlines baggage carousel we returned the car. The shuttle bus was about to leave so we sprinted and just managed to catch it. Wouldn’t you know it, an Australian drawl said gidday and right before us were Sue and Russell our friends from Australia who will be joining us for our seven day Un-Cruise adventure. You may well ask what were we doing at an airport if we were about to embark on a cruise. The answer to that riddle was that we had to catch their shuttle bus with passengers who were just arriving. Our destination is Kawaihae Harbour which is about 30 miles north of the airport.
The Un-Cruise meet and greet was occurring at the Hapuna Beach Prince resort. After dropping off our bags we had a free run of the resort which has its own golf course and a beautiful beach right on Hapuna Bay. Unfortunately, we did not have access to our togs so we had to settle for a beer around the palm tree shrouded pool which overlooks one of the best beaches on the island. I did get some sand between the toes when I took a long walk along the beach. Around 5:00pm along with the other thirty two guests we boarded our vessel, the Safari Explorer for our week long sea odyssey. In hindsight it would have been ideal to spend about six days on the Big Island with the last two days at the aforementioned resort. Anyway after changing into some suitable attire (shorts and t-shirt) we joined the other guests for a delicious meal and a significant amount of alcohol which is included in our cruise price.
Sunday, 8th November – Pacific Manta Rays
This morning the boys are all a little seedy. I think it is a combination of last night’s beer consumption and the constant rolling of our small ship. We have anchored in Honomalino Bay just off Kailua-Kona where we will have an introductory snorkeling lesson. After collecting all of our equipment we were off in the skiff to a site that was surrounded by lava tubes and imposing basalt cliff face. Of course there was a Jack Nickalus designed golf course hugging the coast line. The snorkeling site was safe enough for everyone but on a scale of one to ten I would give it a three. It was just too deep to get a good feel for the marine life at this location.
Back on board we relaxed with lunch which was followed by an early dinner. We were anchored off shore from the Sheraton resort at Keauhou Bay for a night snorkel with giant Pacific Manta Rays. This activity is supposed to be ranked at number 3 in the top things to do before you die. Judging by the number of boats and lights in the water quite a few people were going to tick this one off their bucket list. We were all provided with wetsuits and around 6:30pm we jumped in the skiff for a short ride to where the Mantas hang out.
The setup for viewing the Mantas is quite ingenious as you are broken up into groups of six and then assigned to a paddle board. The boards have a hole in the centre which holds a powerful light that is used to attract the plankton. Once you have enough plankton the Mantas swoop in and enjoy a big Hawaiian feast. We kicked our paddle board over to an area where they had sighted a few and in no time we were witnessing these beautiful creatures gliding gracefully through the water only metres from us. Some displayed their maneuverability by executing perfect loop the loops. We spent about 45 minutes in the water and all agreed that it was an amazing experience. www.mantarayshawaii.com
Back on board we were treated to a late happy hour that extended way past my bedtime.
Monday, 9th November – Captain Cook
This morning we boarded some skiffs which are operated by Captain Zodiac for a fast trip to Kealakekua Bay for some of the islands best snorkeling. Coincidentally it just happens that this was the spot where Captain Cook was slain in 1779. It is suspected that the Hawaiians attached religious significance to the first stay of the Europeans on their islands. In Cook’s second visit, there was no question of this phenomenon. Kealakekua Bay was considered the sacred harbor of Lono, the fertility god of the Hawaiians, and at the time of Cook’s arrival the locals were engaged in a festival dedicated to Lono. Cook and his compatriots were welcomed as gods and for the next month exploited the Hawaiians’ good will. After one of the crewmen died, exposing the Europeans as mere mortals, relations became strained. On February 4, 1779, the British ships sailed from Kealakekua Bay, but rough seas damaged the foremast of the Resolution, and after only a week at sea the expedition was forced to return to Hawaii.
The Hawaiians greeted Cook and his men by hurling rocks; they then stole a small cutter vessel from the Discovery. Negotiations with King Kalaniopuu for the return of the cutter collapsed after a lesser Hawaiian chief was shot to death and a mob of Hawaiians descended on Cook’s party. The captain and his men fired on the angry Hawaiians, but they were soon overwhelmed, and only a few managed to escape to the safety of the Resolution. Captain Cook himself was killed by the mob. A few days later, the Englishmen retaliated by firing their cannons and muskets at the shore, killing some 30 Hawaiians. The Resolution and Discovery eventually returned to England.
The snorkeling here was excellent as the area is a marine park and the water visibility is a good 25 metres. There were plenty of reef fish and the hard corals were in great condition. Back on board the boys fired up the powerful twin outboards and headed over to the cliff face to show us some lava tubes and sacred Hawaiian sites. Being surrounded by water was having an impact on my rather weak bladder. I relayed my distress to the crew member who yelled out to the captain that they had a ‘code yellow’. A few minutes later I was allowed to jump over the side to relieve my stress. To my satisfaction I was joined by another passenger who seemed to be visibly relaxing.
After lunch it was time for some shore leave in downtown Kailua-Kona. We docked next door to the Sheraton Hotel which has a full sized wooden replica of an outrigger canoe. Our little Un-cruise treat was a half hour paddle in a six man fiberglass outrigger which was skippered by an enthusiastic young Hawaiian. The six of us were soon powering our way out into the harbor. We were so good that they could have used us on a trailer for Hawaii Five O or maybe not. Out in the harbor we did get up close and personal with some spinner dolphins and their young. Afterwards Alice and I trolled a few shops and sites such as Queen Hulihe’e Palace and the Moku’aikaua Church. We then caught the 4:00pm skiff back to the boat as we have booked a free 45 minute massage.
Looking good and feeling relaxed we settled in for cocktails and another sumptuous meal. The captain gave us a talk about our crossing tonight as it is expected to get a tad rough as we motor to Maui. In preparation for our assault on the channel Tony and I armed ourselves by consuming quite a few beers. We knew it was time for bed when the staff started to glad wrap the cupboards to stop them from flying open.
Tuesday, 10th November – West Maui
We knew when the ship was in the major channel as it started to heave left, right, up and down which meant sleep was nigh impossible. Alice had a nasty fall when she attempted to go to the toilet. She went flying backwards and crashed onto the floor. Her arm was severely bruised and she was lucky not to have hurt herself more. At breakfast most of the passengers looked like they had a hard night but that has not stopped us from signing up for some kayaking.
The six of us are on the second kayak trip so we have time for a swim and a paddle board off the back of the ship. I had a go at the stand up paddle board but my effort should have been called fall down boarding. No matter how hard I tried I kept falling off in spectacular fashion. In the end I gave up as I popped a rib cartilage when pulling myself onto the board. Russell fared no better than me but Sue was the queen for the day because she eventually mastered it.
Joe and Joyce who were on the first kayak trip returned on the skiff. They were soaking wet and had to be brought back as they just could not get back on board the kayak. Joe claimed they were torpedoed by a Japanese submarine. Our kayaking was less adventurous but we did manage to cover a bit of territory. Our guide Mitch did manage to show us a couple of sea turtles that were hunting over a small reef just off the shore. As we headed back to the ship and lunch I thought Sue and Russell had other activities planned. They set an outstanding pace as they powered away from the rest of us.
No need to guess what we did after lunch, yes it was another snorkel. Once again the water was crystal clear and teeming with underwater life and coral gardens. Back on board Tony has opted for an afternoon sleep and abstained from drinking alcohol. He is the only man I know who abstains from drinking when it is all inclusive. Power to his resilience!
Wednesday, 11th November – Turtles and Lahaina Town
The captain has altered our schedule for today as we need to get a plumber on board to unblock one of the toilets. This gave us the opportunity to snorkel at the old Mala Warf which was a fishing pier that was destroyed in 1992 by hurricane Iniki. The pylons of the pier and the platform lie scattered on the sea bed providing structure for the many species of fish. The pier has White Tip Reef Sharks, lots of schooling fish, Frogfish, Nudibranchs, and Turtles. Julie who is a non-swimmer and deathly afraid of sharks was certain she saw one. We were not so fortunate but we all spent a great deal of time swimming with at least ten turtles. There were even a couple of small juvenile turtles swimming near their parents. We all love a good collective noun but I cannot understand how they could come up with a “bale of turtles”. Thanks to the turtles we had an amazing snorkeling trip.
After lunch we had a chance to stretch our legs with a walk around Lahaina town. Our tour coordinator gave us a map that had a short walk which gave us a good feel for the history of the town. There was a craft market which was set up under the shade of a massive Banyan tree which nearly covered the entire block. Alice certainly enjoyed the market as it took me some time to extricate her from its spell. She did see a nice photograph and I promised to return later to consider its purchase.
We continued on our walk and saw a wedding in progress at the local Episcopal Church. Later on we learned that Sue had photo bombed the wedding and had her picture taken with the happy gay couple. Some of the other sites included the old courthouse, the old prison and churches of all denominations. There were also some old Hawaiian sites such as The Kings Taro Patch, Brick Palace (only a few left) of Kamehameha 1 and the Hauola Stone which was used by high ranking women to give birth on. It was getting a bit hot so we tucked into a local favourite to cool us down. It was a shaved ice which had ice-cream in the middle and flavoured with cordial. We did return to the market and I was impressed by the photograph that Alice had chosen. Quite a few dollars later we left the market with a photo that will hang gracefully at Currimundi.
Back on board I managed to convince Tony that he should enjoy a slight tipple at happy hour. We had a couple before enjoying a presentation by the local team leader who is responsible for freeing whales from nets and fishing lines.
Thursday, 12th November – Lanai the Pineapple Island
Early this morning our captain navigated his way to the nearby Island of Lanai. The wind was blowing at a good rate so the boarding of the skiffs was a little hairy. Only Sue, Russell and I are up for this morning’s snorkeling trip at the aptly named shark fin rock. Once again the water is crystal clear and as a result great for taking underwater pictures. Russell was trying out his camera managed to take quite a few good shots of the large school of Angel Fish and our attractive bartender, Erica.
After lunch we jumped into a couple of vans for a short drive to the small settlement town of Lanai City. At an elevation of 3000 feet the air is definitely cooler. Most of the native Hawaiians live here and there are a few craft shops as well as a small museum. We learned that by the 1870s, Walter Gibson had acquired most of the land on the island for ranching. Prior to this he had used it as a Mormon colony. In 1899, his daughter and son-in-law formed Maunalei Sugar Company, headquartered in Keomuku. The company failed in 1901. Many native Hawaiians continued to live along the less arid windward coast, supporting themselves by ranching and fishing.
In 1922, James Dole, the president of Hawaiian Pineapple Company, developed a large portion of it into the world's largest pineapple plantation.
With Hawaii Statehood in 1959, Lānaʻi became part of the County of Maui.
In 1985, Lānaʻi passed into the control of David H. Murdock, as a result of his purchase of Castle & Cooke, then owner of Dole.
In June 2012, Larry Ellison, then CEO of Oracle purchased Castle & Cooke's 98 percent share of the island. The state owns the remaining 2 percent. The sale price was not revealed, but the Maui News previously reported the asking price was between $500 million and $600 million. Ellison reportedly plans to invest as much as another $500 million to add to and improve the island's infrastructure and to create an environmentally friendly agricultural industry.
Our time here was limited as we were doing a short hike at Manele Bay where Larry Olsen has one of his Four Season Resorts. The beach here is quite beautiful and attracts day visitors from Maui who come across on the ferry. Our walk took us out to the point where we had a great view of Kaneapua Rock. There looks to be some sort of altar on top which was built ages ago. How they managed to get the rocks up there is anybody’s guess
Sunday, June 28, 2015
The Final Installment
Day 45, 1st June – Johanna Beach to Melbourne (10032km – 10324km)
Wow, what a cold and windy night to start the first day of winter. I was glad when the light filtered through the window a little after 7:15am. No mucking around this morning and as a result I had abandoned the camp prior to 9:00am. My plan is to drive slowly and enjoy the scenery between here and Anglesea. As the road is wet and slippery I am being quite careful with the driving. After Appolo Bay the road basically follows a magnificent coastline that begs you to stop and enjoy the views and suck in some of that cold salty that is blowing in off the Bass Strait. There are lots of hairpin turns which reduced my average speed to about 45 kmph. It took about 2.5 hours to travel about 120km but it was definitely worth it. I picked up some speed once I hit the M1 and by 1:00pm I had arrived at the Big4 caravan park in Coburg, Melbourne.
After setting up the van I thought I would have a cup of coffee. Bugger, the cylinder was out of gas and I had not refilled the other empty one. I trundled over to the office and placed an order for 2 refills of gas. They asked me to bring over the other bottle so back to the van I went. After packing the bed away so I could access the gas bottle I discovered that I had inadvertently forgotten to turn the gas on. Shamefaced, I returned to the office to adjust my order. The staff just laughed and gave me a refund.
I have a bottle of wine cooling down in the refrigerator as a welcome back Alice present. At around 5:00pm I will brave the Melbourne peak hour traffic and head out to the airport at Tullamarie. Alice’s flight is due in from Hobart at 5:45pm and I can’t wait to see her. The traffic was light so I arrived at the airport with plenty of time to spare. Unfortunately, Alice’s Jetstar flight was slightly delayed and as a result she did not stride through gate 30 until 6:20pm. A few hugs later and we were on our way out of the concrete jungle, less $24 for under 2hours of parking. Owning an airport is definitely a license to print money.
Day 46, 2nd June – The DFO (10324km – 10342km)
Another day and guess what it is cold and it is raining. Our plans for today are quite flexible and in the end we decided to pay a visit to the DFO at Essendon. After a quick walk around we found a Coffee Club franchise and thanks to Lilian returning my wallet I was able to purchase a two for one coffee. Alice spent a few hours checking out the various outlets while I found a chair and read my Kindle. She did manage to source a few items and also purchase me a pair of track pants. Just because the elastic had gone from the old pair didn’t mean they wouldn’t last for a bit longer.
Day 47, 3rd June – Melbourne to Lakes Entrance (10342km – 10684km)
There is nothing to keep us here in Melbourne so we were able to get on the way just before 9:00am. The first part of the journey is quite horrendous as you have to negotiate your way through the last of the peak hour traffic, numerous traffic signals and a great big ring road. After about 35 minutes we hit the eastern ring road and our travel became less onerous. I nearly had a fit when the M1 was called the Monash Freeway and not Princes highway. Going with the M1 was the correct door and within an hour we were out into the country. This part of the drive was far more relaxing as we traveled through some beautiful countryside. There were a number of road side stalls that called us to pullover but we thought we had enough spuds to last us a while yet. The small towns along our route had familiar names that I recalled from my primary school days. English and Scottish sounding towns such as Moe, Morwell, Traralgon, Rosedale, Sale, Stratford which was of course on the Avon River and Bairnsdale rolled by before we eventually reached Lakes Entrance at 2:30pm.
After setting up the van Alice and I went for a long distressing walk along the waterfront. Firstly, we ambled across a bridge that connected lakeside with the surf. There was a huge surf club with great amenities and an easy walk down to the beach. The sun is shining which warms us a little against the cold weather. The beach here is a far cry from what I recently experienced at Johanna. The wind has dropped and as a result the water would be inviting if it was not so cold. This would be an exceptional place in the warmer months where you could just relax and fish by the water. On our walk the big thing that I noticed was that there were three mini golf courses all vying for customers. Alice and I were up for a challenge but alas being winter none were open for business. How lucky was she! One of the other attractions is a cruise on the waterways that make up the Lakes Entrance area. Most of the companies were charging around $55 for a three hour cruise.
The caravan park here has exceptional amenities especially if you do not have any equipment. The camp kitchen has everything you need to cook up a feast as well as a refrigerator to keep your beer cool. The shower block is small but again someone was thinking when they designed the shower space. Again this is a place where we wish there was more time for us to get to know the lay of the land.
Day 48, 4th June – Lakes Entrance to Eden (10684km – 10931km)
This morning we departed at a reasonable time and headed north up the Princes Highway. There were plenty of locations along the way which if you had time would be worth the effort of further investigation. The scenery on this section of the highway was exceptional and there were a number of areas where you could pull over for a free camp. At lunch we stopped at a free camp site just north of the small town of Genoa. We were having a relaxing time and next second we were invaded by another ten caravans. It was a club who had decided to set up camp here for tonight which proves it must be a good stopover. Twenty minutes after lunch we powered into NSW which meant that on this trip Alice has visited every state except Western Australia and if you are picky the ACT.
We stopped for the night at the coastal town of Eden which sits on Twofold Bay. After setting up in the aptly named Garden of Eden caravan park I went for a long walk along the foreshore. There are some great walking trails and the beach looks excellent. In the town centre there are plenty of shops, restaurants and The Killer Whale Museum. The historic cemetery overlooks the water and would be an excellent place to be laid to rest. It is certainly a location which would be worth a longer stay.
Day 49, 5th June – Eden to Shoalhaven Heads (10931km – 11301km)
Today we have a longer drive but we also want to take a scenic route along the Sapphire Coast. After leaving Eden we turned off the highway at Pambula and were soon at Merimbula. This looks like a southern version of Hervey Bay with great waterways and lots of seafood. If I could have found somewhere to park I would have brought some of the many oysters that were being offered for sale. As you travel north from here there are numerous surfing beaches and lakes for swimming and fishing. Bermagui was a bit of a disappointment as we could not get a decent coffee.
Back on the Princes Highway we passed Potato Point before stopping at Batemans Bay for supplies. You know a town is big when it not only has a Coles and Woolworths but an Aldi and a Bunnings as well. There is still another 130km to travel so after a coffee and cake we were back on the road. There are quite a few small towns that the highway does not bypass so you get to see quite a few historic buildings as you drive through at a sedate 50kmph. If time would have permitted we would have stopped for a browse through Milton. Approaching Nowra the rain started to fall which with the huge increase in traffic made towing the van a nightmare. The traffic queues were over a kilometer long which meant constant stopping and starting. Eventually we turned onto Bolong Road which meant it was only 15km to our destination. We put our faith in the Nav Bi.. and once again she led us astray. She completely missed the caravan park but with some luck we found our way to the park.
We have gone the whole hog and booked a drive-through site with an ensuite. Setting up should have been a breeze but the rain started coming down in buckets. After getting saturated we were not in any mood to cook dinner so we headed up to the local bowls club. The menu was comprehensive but I could not resist the pensioner’s staple of roast pork. The entertainment was first class and we relaxed over a couple of drinks whilst listening to one of the local crooners. For an additional $35 we could have purchased tickets to see Jon Stevens.
Day 50, 6th June – Winter Wine Festival (11301km – 11349km)
After last night’s rain the weather today has turned out brilliant. Just up the road from the caravan park is the historic Coolangatta estate which was built by convicts in 1822. The estate has accommodation but we are here to sample some of the nine varieties that are grown here. They are one of about twelve participating wineries in the Shoalhaven Coast winter wine festival. After purchasing a festival glass for $10 we were able to enjoy some fine wine and cheese. They also operate Bigfoot Adventure Tours which is an exhilarating ride in an open air 4x4 truck to the summit of Mt Coolangatta. The view of Seven Mile Beach and the Shoalhaven River was magnificent.
Our next stop was the Two Figs winery. The word must have been out as there were over 100 cars in the carpark with more flowing in. The winery is built on a hill overlooking the river and the surrounding grassy lawn is an ideal place for a picnic. We managed to squeeze our way into the tasting room and try most of the wine that was available for sampling. Overall the quality of the wine was quite good.
Needing a break from the drinking we hit the road and took a drive up to Gerroa and Gerringong. For all those old league nuts I did manage to find the pub that Mick Cronin owns. On the other side of the highway there was an opportunity for lunch at the Roselea Vineyard. Some music, wood fired pizza and of course a couple of wines as we overlooked the vineyard was a great way to spend our lunch break.
Our path back to Shoalhaven took us through Berry. We had a walk around the shops which were being well patronized. The town had a real Montville feel about it. Our last stop on what has been a very full day was Mountain Ridge Wines. Like all the other wineries this one was perched high on a hill with great views. We tried a few of the wines and cheese and then found a spare couple of chairs to listen to the band that was pumping out some good blues music. I even managed time to sample one of their craft beers called Bolong Black. With the sun going down it was back to the van for a relaxing dinner.
Day 51, 7th June – Shoalhaven Heads to Newcastle (11349km – 11649km)
Well I’m glad today is Sunday as we are heading north up Highway 1 through Sydney to Newcastle. There is plenty of traffic on the roads but at this time of day the majority of it I heading south. There was a driver reviver just south of Woolongong so we pulled over for a complimentary coffee which always comes with a couple of Arnotts biscuits. The Nav Lady wanted us to turn off highway 1 but given her past record I ignored her. This turned out to be a huge error as the highway turned into a two lane nightmare through the Sutherland Shire. Lots of traffic signals and a 70kmph speed limit really put the brakes on our travel speed. Eventually we found our way onto the Eastern Distributor and dived under the airport and Sydney Harbour. Our joy was short lived because as soon as we hit the northern suburbs it was a stop start journey for about 15km through the burbs. Once we hit the Newcastle Expressway it was all systems go as we sped north to our rendezvous with Brian, Kerith and their beautiful girls.
We arrived at 2:00pm and Brian who is resting up after a recent hernia operation was there to meet us. This is free camping at its best as we parked the van half on the footpath and quickly set up for the night. The girls came home soon after and we spent the afternoon catching up. It is a full house as Keith’s niece Tahnee and her husband Reece are also visiting. Kerith cooked up a delicious meal which went well with some organic pale ale from the Red Oaks brewery.
After watching the long movie Inter Stellar we headed out to the footpath and another night in the van. There was a good chill in the air so Alice turned on the cooktop burners to add some warmth while she readied herself for bed. With double layers of everything she nearly looks like the Michelin Man. With the rattling sound of a coal freight train in the distance we drifted off to sleep.
Day 52, 8th June – The Newcastle Song (11649km)
It was definitely a cold night as I awoke to the sound of water dripping onto the roof above our expanda bed. The rising sun started to warm the dew on the roof of the van which sent it cascading in little rivulets along the perimeter of the roof. We had a morning coffee before entering the sanctuary of the Weld household. Some quick ablutions and we were ready to face the day but not before devouring some delicious pancakes whipped up by Jessica and Brian.
Our first stop for the morning was not on the heritage trail but nevertheless is an important stop for visitors and Novicastrans. It was of course the iconic Ugg boot factory owned by the Mortel family. The original owner who migrated from the Netherlands is a member of the church which Brian and Kerith attend. After some obligatory photos with the giant Ugg Boots it was off into the store to browse through the stock. That turned out to be a bad move as I purchased a pair of seconds for $75 and Alice a pair of slippers for $50.
Kerith guided us to a free parking spot on the fringe of the CBD. As we strolled down a very steep hill and past many empty car spaces to Hunter Street. I remembered this street from an old tune from 1974 named “The Newcastle Song” which was sung by Bob Hudson. It ranks up there with the Slim Newton classic “Redback on the Toilet Seat”. After grabbing a quick coffee we headed up the street to Scratchley Fort where they are letting off the cannons as a salute for the Queens Birthday. On arrival at the fort we were greeted by the haunting sounds of Scottish bagpipes. Nothing like hearing Mull of Kintyre on bagpipes. It was a special day for the volunteers as they get to play with the guns. You can see by the expression on their faces that they can’t wait for 1:00pm to roll around so that they can let loose with the ammunition. The fort is on one of Newcastle’s prime real estate positions with commanding views of the river, surf beaches and the pelicans. At the appointed hour Dad’s Army let loose with the cannon and the boom would have been heard for miles. It certainly startled the resident seagull population and the hardy surfers that were riding what was a pretty good break. We wandered down the hill straight past the sausage sizzle and headed over to Scotties Fish ‘n’ Chips shop. We found an outside table and ordered up the standard fare. We did add one unusual ingredient and that was a beetroot scallop which was surprisingly tasty. Brian went one better and had the fish burrito.
With the meal over I accompanied the girls whilst Brian and Reece went back for the cars. Kerith’s parking folly came back to haunt the boys as they nearly expired when they had to walk back up that very steep hill. The foreshore walk is great as you get amazing views of the water and rugged coastline and at the end there is a great lookout. Back in Thornton Tahnee has whipped up some apricot chicken for dinner and Alice prepared some salted caramel tarts. Later in the evening the girls including Reece donned their cosi’s and jumped into the Weld hot tub. They were glowing when they jumped out as well as being totally relaxed and ready for bed.
Day 53, 9th June – Newcastle to South West Rocks (11649km – 11995km)
Another cold night but at least we did not have to get up at 4:00am to travel to the airport like Tahnee and Reece. We did hear them go but drifted off back to sleep and awake at a more sane hour. After a quick coffee we joined the Weld family as they readied themselves for school and work. We had a great time with Kerith and Brian who soldiered on despite his recent operation.
It did not take us long to get ready and we were soon on the A1 heading north for our next destination South West rocks. The highway north to the Port Macquarie turnoff is first class. Apart from slowing down to 80kmph at the very small town of Coolongolook where we did stop for a sausage roll and a coffee we bypassed most of the major centres. It would have been nice to deviate through places like Forster, Tuncurry, Gloucester and Taree but our grey nomad schedule will not allow it. The last 20km of the journey was quite scenic as we followed the Macleay River into South West Rocks.
We have decided to stay in the South West Rocks Tourist Park which has excellent facilities and borders one of the small creeks that runs into the Macleay. After setting up I made my way to the South West Rocks Dive Centre to ascertain if I could arrange a dive for tomorrow. My luck was in and I am booked in for a double dive at the unseemly hour of 7:00am. Next on the agenda was a quick reconnaissance drive of the local area. The caravan park at Horseshoe Bay looked very inviting and they had a couple of powered sites with uninterrupted views of the ocean. It looked like a good spot if the wind was blowing from the south east. Next stop was the Trial Bay gaol which for a gaol has the best location if you have to spend some time in stir. There are also some waterfront camp sites for $27.50 a night which has a super view of Horseshoe Bay. The waterfront sites don’t have power but that is a small inconvenience given where you are positioned. I thought about staying here but thought there would be nothing available. You can be wise after the fact. Just on dark I made it back to our site and relaxed with a cold beer while Alice prepared our evening meal. Sausages never tasted so good!
Day 54, 10th June – Diving Fish Rock and Smoky Cape (11995km - 12032km)
The shrill call of the mobile phone alarm clock at 6:00am woke me from my slumber. A leisurely coffee and I was off to the dive shop for some underwater excitement. Alice meanwhile slept in until 8:15am, lucky bugger. Two boats are heading out today and our destination is Fish Rock. After negotiating a rather lumpy bar at the mouth of the river it was a smooth ride out to the rock which lies just off the Smoky Cape Lighthouse. Once I had geared up I must have looked like a large sea lion in my 7mm wetsuit. With a not so graceful backward roll I entered the frigid water of the Pacific Ocean. The water temperature was a toasty 20 degrees and the moment some water leaked into the wetsuit I knew I was alive. After descending the mooring line we were in a narrow gutter with a sandy bottom. Within a couple of minutes I saw the first of what was to prove many Grey Nurse Sharks. On occasions there were four sharks gliding slowly past us with some over 2.5 metres in length. There were also Wobbegong Sharks and Blue Cod in the gutter. After about 50 minutes it was time to surface and try and thaw out.
During the surface interval there were whales breaching and a couple surfaced within 20 metres of the dive boat. I managed to down a cup of soup and a few lollies which warmed me up considerably. Our next dive was a swim through Fish Rock Cave which has a maximum depth of about 25 metres. This was an amazing dive as we swam through some narrow spaces and vertical shafts. There were heaps of lobsters, cod, puffer fish, large painted crab, wobbegong sharks, and a large bull ray that just wanted to swim beneath me. In another section there were heaps of moray eels and an octopus. I had plenty of air left but after 50 minutes I needed to surface as the cold was setting into my bones. Back on the surface it took me ages to get my shivering under control. Before heading back to shore we saw some more whales which gave us a good buzz.
Back at the van Alice and I prepared our evening meal which will be lamb goulash. We even had time to prepare a nice bacon and egg sandwich. Umm delicious! After lunch we went for a short drive to visit the local sites. Our first stop was Horseshoe Bay where we sat on the headland and watched the local dolphins patrolling the nearby rocky outcrops in search of dinner. The weather was great and we were sheltered from the South Easter that had blown up since lunch. We both thought this was the spot for an afternoon happy hour. Next stop was the Trial Bay Gaol where we were greeted by the resident kangaroos. There was probably around twenty of them in residence. Alice agreed with me that with amazing views and reasonable facilities the camp sites here are amongst the best on the east coast. Our last destination for the day was the Smoky Cape Lighthouse. The two old lighthouse cottages which have three double bedrooms are available for rent. Solitude and location would make this an ideal getaway for a group of friends. Oh, the view from the lighthouse takes in Fish Rock and the long beach that leads down to Hat Head. Even with the wind blowing Alice was able to see heaps of whales on their migration north. There is also a barbeque area with resident kangaroos and birdlife to keep you company. Just below the lighthouse is the Smoky Cape campground which is part of the national park. The sites were reasonable and set in the bush not far from the beach. A good spot for fishermen as there is beach access providing you have the dreaded vehicle permit.
Day 55, 11th June – Kempsey and The Heads (12032km – 12203km)
The rain bucketed down last night and there are quite a few puddles lying around. We took a drive into Kempsey, quickly looked around and just as quickly left. The town is basically cut in half by the river with most of the shopping and older buildings on the west bank. After our tour we followed tourist route 12 which took us back towards the coast and the seaside village of Crescent Head. It is a small village with a caravan park in an ideal beachfront position. I think that you would need to book early if you wanted a site in the summer months. There is also a country club that has a small golf course right on the water. We took a drive up to the headland lookout and were greeted with a large rainbow. Unfortunately, it did not last long as the rain squalls rolled in from the south. Years ago we fed some magpies on the headland and were pleased when the resident flock once again showed up for some lamb tidbits.
Lunch was getting close so it was off to the other head, Hat Head for a nice big juicy hamburger with homemade patties and plenty of beetroot. Thank goodness there was no mayonnaise. Hat Head is much smaller than Crescent Head but it does sport a bowls club and a caravan park. It would be a great spot to stay in summer or if you love fishing. Prior to heading back we checked out the hungry Head Campground. The last 3km is all dirt road and after all the recent rain there are plenty of potholes. The drive was worth it as this national park campground is well grassed which the local kangaroos seem to appreciate and it is an easy walk to the beach. Camping fees are $5 per adult plus a $7 a day charge for the vehicle. If you are staying longer you can purchase an annual pass for $20. There is also vehicle access to the beach which runs all the way to Crescent Head.
Our last stop was the small village of Gladstone which is nestled on the bank of the Macleay River. I think they had more historic buildings here than Kempsey. It seems like the artists like this place as there were a few galleries sequestered here. We bought some expensive vegetables at the fruit and vege shop before heading back to the Rocks. We finished our day with some gentle exercise and a roast lamb dinner.
Day 56, 12th June – South West Rocks (12203km – 12228km)
After breakfast this morning and in between the rain squalls Alice and I managed a walk of a few kilometres. From the caravan park you can take a path along the old river entrance which brings you around to Horseshoe Bay. From here you can easily continue along the beach to Trial Bay Gaol but we opted for a coffee that was brewed with Toby Estate beans. There were plenty of pelicans about as well as a couple of grizzled old fishermen who were out to catch a few black bream.
After lunch I organized my dive for tomorrow and found a spot where I could connect to the internet. After logging on I was able to partially complete my dive course on Diving with Nitrox. Alice meanwhile has decided to take in a movie at the Roxy Theatre. It is a quaint older style building which is also used as an arts theatre. It warms my heart when I see a theatre manager dressed up like a maitre-d in a swish restaurant. There is nothing like a nicely pressed white shirt and black bow tie. After the movie I chauffeured the gorgeous Alice to the Country Club for a fine dinner. The only thing missing from this great evening was the glass slipper.
Day 57, 13th June – Diving with Sharks Again (12228km- 12245km)
I was up reasonably early this morning as I would like to put a dent in my diving homework. After breakfast I headed up to Horseshoe Bay in search of an internet connection. Success, I was able to log onto my course and with a great view was able to successfully complete it. With this task out of the way it was back to the dive shop to get some gear together for the dive this afternoon. With my wetsuit and a vest with a hood in hand I headed back to the bay to search for Alice who had spent the morning looking around the market and the local shops. When I found her she had managed the purchase of a couple of vegetables and a kilo of honey.
After all of our exhaustions we were in need of a coffee. It was back for some more Toby Estate but I felt the need to supplement this with a $3 bacon and egg sandwich. The good wives of the South West Rock Masons were happy to take my donation. After coffee Alice went back to the Roxy for another movie or was it to see the dapper manager. Two movies in two days could be considered suspicious.
I was at the boat ramp at midday to join my fellow divers on the rough ride out to Fish Rock. There was a good swell which caused a couple of the divers to express interest in what they had for lunch. With my extra layer of warmth I felt pretty good when I hit the water. I was even happier when I saw that the visibility had improved to an impressive 25 metres. As soon as we descended the mooring line the Grey Nurse Sharks came into plain view. The whole dive was like swimming in an aquarium and with minimal surge and current the dive was exceptional. There were also plenty of fish, an inquisitive Wobbegong and the Bull Ray from the other day.
After about a 45 minute surface interval it was back in the water for a swim through Fish Rock Cave. The sandy bottom of the cave was so thick with Wobbegong Sharks that it looked like it was carpeted. One of the divers had to turn back due to a faulty computer which left me to bring up the rear. Again we saw some Moray Eels and Lion Fish but the highlight was hand feeding a Loggerhead Turtle. This guy could not get enough of the tidbit that was on offer. It was so voracious that it reminded me of the Butcher Birds that inhabit our back deck. It was another great dive with excellent visibility. I would highly recommend this dive operation for their local knowledge, attention to safety and customer service. They certainly went the extra yard with me and assisted me with small things like getting my fins on. Remember when you get to my age it can be a little difficult bending over in a cramped boat with a weight belt and tank strapped to your torso.
I ended up returning to the van at about 5:00pm. There was no sign of the theatre manager but Alice did have some cold champagne and nibblies ready for our last night at SWR.
Day 58, 14th June – South West Rocks to Broken Head (12245km – 12605km)
We hit the road just after 8:00am and were soon on the Pacific Highway heading north. It seemed ages before we hit the outskirts of Coffs Harbour but when we did our travel speed reduced appreciably. There were that many traffic lights that I thought we were arriving in Sydney. Eventually we made it through this cosmic wormhole and were once again on dual bitumen heading towards Grafton. As we were making pretty good time we decided to stop for a hamburger at New Italy. This rest stop is just south of Woodburn which is the turnoff for Evans Head which was going to be our base for the next three nights. Little Italy has a museum which tells he interesting history of the 200 plus Italians who settled here in the late 1800’s. Suffice to say that this little group is considered to be the first refugees to settle in Australia. Check it out on Wikipedia.
We arrived Evans Head at 1:00pm and the caravan park had some powered sites available. Prior to paying for a site we did an inspection and were not impressed. It seemed like that every southerner was jam packed into the available spaces. The sites were quite small or next to the amenities block that certainly did not appeal to either of us. We both concurred that this was not the place for us so it was back in the truck to continue the journey. We did not bother with stopping at Ballina or Lennox Heads but tried our luck at Broken Head which is about 10km south of Byron Bay. As luck would have it there were powered sites available which had room for us to spread out. The location is fantastic with a great surf beach bordering the front of the park and a national park rainforest at the rear.
After setting up I managed some light exercise to work out the kinks from the day’s driving. With all the hard work over we both relaxed with a cool drink under and listened to the sounds of the surf. Ah bliss!
Day 59, 15th June – Rainforests and Byron Bay (12605km – 12650km)
We did have some heavy rain last night but this morning we have a bright blue sky. At 7:00am I could not believe the number of surfers who were getting an early morning surf. The weather is that good that I have been reduced to wearing just shorts and a t-shirt for our rainforest walk. A number of vans left this morning and as a result the park is near empty. For the moment we have an uninterrupted view of the water. I can only hope that we do not get any new neighbours this afternoon.
The rainforest walk is only about 2km return and takes you out to the headland. Along the route you are rewarded with great views of the water and the hardy surfers braving the cold waters. The predominant plants are Cottonwood Hibiscus, Pandanus Palms and Honey Banksia. The headland has a grassy knoll with a lookout towards a rock formation known as the Three Sisters. There are also a couple of tracks down to the beach which the surfers like as they can get right out to the point with minimal paddling. The local fishermen also enjoy fishing off the rocks here.
After the walk we jumped into the car and headed into Byron for a glimpse of how some of the well heeled live. As we drove down the main street I was amazed by the number of backpackers and ageing hippies that I saw. We drove down to Palm valley beach where I used to launch our caper cat for some catamaran surfing. The good old days are long gone as I could not see a boat ramp and you needed to pay for parking as the beach is located within a national park. Too much for me so it was off to Wategos Beach where property is definitely in excess of a million dollars. The beach here is excellent and judging by the number of surfers and the unavailability of car spaces it is the place to be. Next stop was a drive up to the lighthouse but at $7 for a parking spot I quickly moved on. We found a free two hour parking space downtown which gave us some time to stroll around the shops. As we were walking we could detect a lot of international dialects which proves that Byron Bay is on the list of destinations to see in Australia. Eventually we had a light lunch and a beer at one of the hotels before heading back to the camp.
There is still nobody camping next to us and I was able to enjoy my afternoon repast with the added bonus of the view. Alice whipped up some great potato and tuna patties which we enjoyed with some Spanish Cava.
Day 60, 16th June – Who’ll Stop The Rain (12650km – 12665km)
With the coming of the dawn, the rain also cometh. At first it was just a sprinkle but as the morning progressed so did the intensity. Our plan of a long walk was put on hold and then cancelled. In the end we had a relaxing day which we spent reading and just doing nothing at all. As evening fell the rain got even heavier which in turn flooded our little area under the annex. Tomorrow will be a big pain as it would appear that we will have to pack up in the rain. Oh what a day!!
Day 61, 17th June – Broken Head to Banora Point (12665km – 12755km)
Well it is State of Origin day and we are off to Banora point to spend an evening with our good friends Jane and Tony Guarino. The weather is quite bleak but the rain held off just long enough for us to pack up everything in a reasonably dry state. We took the scenic route over the hills via Bangalow before hitting the M1 for a speedy trip to Banora Point.
Tony and Jane are marvelous hosts and really made us feel at home. I suspect that Tony suffers from a little OCD as everything has a place and kept in immaculate condition. The lawn was so well kept that we could have eaten dinner off it. The only let down for the evening was the Maroons failure to wrap up the series.
Day 62, 18th June – Banora Point to Brisbane (12755km – 12905km)
When we awoke Jane and Tony had already left for work. True to form they had set up a nice little breakfast for us so that we could just relax and take off when we were ready. Our trip home was indirect as we wanted to travel via Canungra. We opted for exit 73 via South Nerang which eventually hooks up with the Nerang-Beaudesert Road. A sausage roll and a coffee was calling us so we had to stop at the Canungra bakery to answer the call. Absolutely delicious!
The aim of travelling this direction was so we could stop at Ceadervale to visit Alice’s mum and sister. We had a great afternoon but reluctantly it was time to leave for the final leg of our journey. It was around 3:30pm and just under 13,000km when we pulled into Lucy Street. This was nearly the most difficult part of the journey as all the mothers were trying to park out the street so they could visit the park. I managed to stop two of them from taking up the space for the caravan. After a little reversing magic our journey through the eastern part of Australia had come to an end.
There were many beautiful places that we did not have time to visit or enough time to fully appreciate them. It looks like we will have to save them for another adventure in economy. Until then the old adage remains true, “There is no place like home”.
Wow, what a cold and windy night to start the first day of winter. I was glad when the light filtered through the window a little after 7:15am. No mucking around this morning and as a result I had abandoned the camp prior to 9:00am. My plan is to drive slowly and enjoy the scenery between here and Anglesea. As the road is wet and slippery I am being quite careful with the driving. After Appolo Bay the road basically follows a magnificent coastline that begs you to stop and enjoy the views and suck in some of that cold salty that is blowing in off the Bass Strait. There are lots of hairpin turns which reduced my average speed to about 45 kmph. It took about 2.5 hours to travel about 120km but it was definitely worth it. I picked up some speed once I hit the M1 and by 1:00pm I had arrived at the Big4 caravan park in Coburg, Melbourne.
After setting up the van I thought I would have a cup of coffee. Bugger, the cylinder was out of gas and I had not refilled the other empty one. I trundled over to the office and placed an order for 2 refills of gas. They asked me to bring over the other bottle so back to the van I went. After packing the bed away so I could access the gas bottle I discovered that I had inadvertently forgotten to turn the gas on. Shamefaced, I returned to the office to adjust my order. The staff just laughed and gave me a refund.
I have a bottle of wine cooling down in the refrigerator as a welcome back Alice present. At around 5:00pm I will brave the Melbourne peak hour traffic and head out to the airport at Tullamarie. Alice’s flight is due in from Hobart at 5:45pm and I can’t wait to see her. The traffic was light so I arrived at the airport with plenty of time to spare. Unfortunately, Alice’s Jetstar flight was slightly delayed and as a result she did not stride through gate 30 until 6:20pm. A few hugs later and we were on our way out of the concrete jungle, less $24 for under 2hours of parking. Owning an airport is definitely a license to print money.
Day 46, 2nd June – The DFO (10324km – 10342km)
Another day and guess what it is cold and it is raining. Our plans for today are quite flexible and in the end we decided to pay a visit to the DFO at Essendon. After a quick walk around we found a Coffee Club franchise and thanks to Lilian returning my wallet I was able to purchase a two for one coffee. Alice spent a few hours checking out the various outlets while I found a chair and read my Kindle. She did manage to source a few items and also purchase me a pair of track pants. Just because the elastic had gone from the old pair didn’t mean they wouldn’t last for a bit longer.
Day 47, 3rd June – Melbourne to Lakes Entrance (10342km – 10684km)
There is nothing to keep us here in Melbourne so we were able to get on the way just before 9:00am. The first part of the journey is quite horrendous as you have to negotiate your way through the last of the peak hour traffic, numerous traffic signals and a great big ring road. After about 35 minutes we hit the eastern ring road and our travel became less onerous. I nearly had a fit when the M1 was called the Monash Freeway and not Princes highway. Going with the M1 was the correct door and within an hour we were out into the country. This part of the drive was far more relaxing as we traveled through some beautiful countryside. There were a number of road side stalls that called us to pullover but we thought we had enough spuds to last us a while yet. The small towns along our route had familiar names that I recalled from my primary school days. English and Scottish sounding towns such as Moe, Morwell, Traralgon, Rosedale, Sale, Stratford which was of course on the Avon River and Bairnsdale rolled by before we eventually reached Lakes Entrance at 2:30pm.
The caravan park here has exceptional amenities especially if you do not have any equipment. The camp kitchen has everything you need to cook up a feast as well as a refrigerator to keep your beer cool. The shower block is small but again someone was thinking when they designed the shower space. Again this is a place where we wish there was more time for us to get to know the lay of the land.
Day 48, 4th June – Lakes Entrance to Eden (10684km – 10931km)
This morning we departed at a reasonable time and headed north up the Princes Highway. There were plenty of locations along the way which if you had time would be worth the effort of further investigation. The scenery on this section of the highway was exceptional and there were a number of areas where you could pull over for a free camp. At lunch we stopped at a free camp site just north of the small town of Genoa. We were having a relaxing time and next second we were invaded by another ten caravans. It was a club who had decided to set up camp here for tonight which proves it must be a good stopover. Twenty minutes after lunch we powered into NSW which meant that on this trip Alice has visited every state except Western Australia and if you are picky the ACT.
Day 49, 5th June – Eden to Shoalhaven Heads (10931km – 11301km)
Today we have a longer drive but we also want to take a scenic route along the Sapphire Coast. After leaving Eden we turned off the highway at Pambula and were soon at Merimbula. This looks like a southern version of Hervey Bay with great waterways and lots of seafood. If I could have found somewhere to park I would have brought some of the many oysters that were being offered for sale. As you travel north from here there are numerous surfing beaches and lakes for swimming and fishing. Bermagui was a bit of a disappointment as we could not get a decent coffee.
Back on the Princes Highway we passed Potato Point before stopping at Batemans Bay for supplies. You know a town is big when it not only has a Coles and Woolworths but an Aldi and a Bunnings as well. There is still another 130km to travel so after a coffee and cake we were back on the road. There are quite a few small towns that the highway does not bypass so you get to see quite a few historic buildings as you drive through at a sedate 50kmph. If time would have permitted we would have stopped for a browse through Milton. Approaching Nowra the rain started to fall which with the huge increase in traffic made towing the van a nightmare. The traffic queues were over a kilometer long which meant constant stopping and starting. Eventually we turned onto Bolong Road which meant it was only 15km to our destination. We put our faith in the Nav Bi.. and once again she led us astray. She completely missed the caravan park but with some luck we found our way to the park.
Day 50, 6th June – Winter Wine Festival (11301km – 11349km)
After last night’s rain the weather today has turned out brilliant. Just up the road from the caravan park is the historic Coolangatta estate which was built by convicts in 1822. The estate has accommodation but we are here to sample some of the nine varieties that are grown here. They are one of about twelve participating wineries in the Shoalhaven Coast winter wine festival. After purchasing a festival glass for $10 we were able to enjoy some fine wine and cheese. They also operate Bigfoot Adventure Tours which is an exhilarating ride in an open air 4x4 truck to the summit of Mt Coolangatta. The view of Seven Mile Beach and the Shoalhaven River was magnificent.
Our next stop was the Two Figs winery. The word must have been out as there were over 100 cars in the carpark with more flowing in. The winery is built on a hill overlooking the river and the surrounding grassy lawn is an ideal place for a picnic. We managed to squeeze our way into the tasting room and try most of the wine that was available for sampling. Overall the quality of the wine was quite good.
Our path back to Shoalhaven took us through Berry. We had a walk around the shops which were being well patronized. The town had a real Montville feel about it. Our last stop on what has been a very full day was Mountain Ridge Wines. Like all the other wineries this one was perched high on a hill with great views. We tried a few of the wines and cheese and then found a spare couple of chairs to listen to the band that was pumping out some good blues music. I even managed time to sample one of their craft beers called Bolong Black. With the sun going down it was back to the van for a relaxing dinner.
Day 51, 7th June – Shoalhaven Heads to Newcastle (11349km – 11649km)
Well I’m glad today is Sunday as we are heading north up Highway 1 through Sydney to Newcastle. There is plenty of traffic on the roads but at this time of day the majority of it I heading south. There was a driver reviver just south of Woolongong so we pulled over for a complimentary coffee which always comes with a couple of Arnotts biscuits. The Nav Lady wanted us to turn off highway 1 but given her past record I ignored her. This turned out to be a huge error as the highway turned into a two lane nightmare through the Sutherland Shire. Lots of traffic signals and a 70kmph speed limit really put the brakes on our travel speed. Eventually we found our way onto the Eastern Distributor and dived under the airport and Sydney Harbour. Our joy was short lived because as soon as we hit the northern suburbs it was a stop start journey for about 15km through the burbs. Once we hit the Newcastle Expressway it was all systems go as we sped north to our rendezvous with Brian, Kerith and their beautiful girls.
We arrived at 2:00pm and Brian who is resting up after a recent hernia operation was there to meet us. This is free camping at its best as we parked the van half on the footpath and quickly set up for the night. The girls came home soon after and we spent the afternoon catching up. It is a full house as Keith’s niece Tahnee and her husband Reece are also visiting. Kerith cooked up a delicious meal which went well with some organic pale ale from the Red Oaks brewery.After watching the long movie Inter Stellar we headed out to the footpath and another night in the van. There was a good chill in the air so Alice turned on the cooktop burners to add some warmth while she readied herself for bed. With double layers of everything she nearly looks like the Michelin Man. With the rattling sound of a coal freight train in the distance we drifted off to sleep.
Day 52, 8th June – The Newcastle Song (11649km)
It was definitely a cold night as I awoke to the sound of water dripping onto the roof above our expanda bed. The rising sun started to warm the dew on the roof of the van which sent it cascading in little rivulets along the perimeter of the roof. We had a morning coffee before entering the sanctuary of the Weld household. Some quick ablutions and we were ready to face the day but not before devouring some delicious pancakes whipped up by Jessica and Brian.
Kerith guided us to a free parking spot on the fringe of the CBD. As we strolled down a very steep hill and past many empty car spaces to Hunter Street. I remembered this street from an old tune from 1974 named “The Newcastle Song” which was sung by Bob Hudson. It ranks up there with the Slim Newton classic “Redback on the Toilet Seat”. After grabbing a quick coffee we headed up the street to Scratchley Fort where they are letting off the cannons as a salute for the Queens Birthday. On arrival at the fort we were greeted by the haunting sounds of Scottish bagpipes. Nothing like hearing Mull of Kintyre on bagpipes. It was a special day for the volunteers as they get to play with the guns. You can see by the expression on their faces that they can’t wait for 1:00pm to roll around so that they can let loose with the ammunition. The fort is on one of Newcastle’s prime real estate positions with commanding views of the river, surf beaches and the pelicans. At the appointed hour Dad’s Army let loose with the cannon and the boom would have been heard for miles. It certainly startled the resident seagull population and the hardy surfers that were riding what was a pretty good break. We wandered down the hill straight past the sausage sizzle and headed over to Scotties Fish ‘n’ Chips shop. We found an outside table and ordered up the standard fare. We did add one unusual ingredient and that was a beetroot scallop which was surprisingly tasty. Brian went one better and had the fish burrito.
With the meal over I accompanied the girls whilst Brian and Reece went back for the cars. Kerith’s parking folly came back to haunt the boys as they nearly expired when they had to walk back up that very steep hill. The foreshore walk is great as you get amazing views of the water and rugged coastline and at the end there is a great lookout. Back in Thornton Tahnee has whipped up some apricot chicken for dinner and Alice prepared some salted caramel tarts. Later in the evening the girls including Reece donned their cosi’s and jumped into the Weld hot tub. They were glowing when they jumped out as well as being totally relaxed and ready for bed.
Day 53, 9th June – Newcastle to South West Rocks (11649km – 11995km)
Another cold night but at least we did not have to get up at 4:00am to travel to the airport like Tahnee and Reece. We did hear them go but drifted off back to sleep and awake at a more sane hour. After a quick coffee we joined the Weld family as they readied themselves for school and work. We had a great time with Kerith and Brian who soldiered on despite his recent operation.
Day 54, 10th June – Diving Fish Rock and Smoky Cape (11995km - 12032km)
The shrill call of the mobile phone alarm clock at 6:00am woke me from my slumber. A leisurely coffee and I was off to the dive shop for some underwater excitement. Alice meanwhile slept in until 8:15am, lucky bugger. Two boats are heading out today and our destination is Fish Rock. After negotiating a rather lumpy bar at the mouth of the river it was a smooth ride out to the rock which lies just off the Smoky Cape Lighthouse. Once I had geared up I must have looked like a large sea lion in my 7mm wetsuit. With a not so graceful backward roll I entered the frigid water of the Pacific Ocean. The water temperature was a toasty 20 degrees and the moment some water leaked into the wetsuit I knew I was alive. After descending the mooring line we were in a narrow gutter with a sandy bottom. Within a couple of minutes I saw the first of what was to prove many Grey Nurse Sharks. On occasions there were four sharks gliding slowly past us with some over 2.5 metres in length. There were also Wobbegong Sharks and Blue Cod in the gutter. After about 50 minutes it was time to surface and try and thaw out.
During the surface interval there were whales breaching and a couple surfaced within 20 metres of the dive boat. I managed to down a cup of soup and a few lollies which warmed me up considerably. Our next dive was a swim through Fish Rock Cave which has a maximum depth of about 25 metres. This was an amazing dive as we swam through some narrow spaces and vertical shafts. There were heaps of lobsters, cod, puffer fish, large painted crab, wobbegong sharks, and a large bull ray that just wanted to swim beneath me. In another section there were heaps of moray eels and an octopus. I had plenty of air left but after 50 minutes I needed to surface as the cold was setting into my bones. Back on the surface it took me ages to get my shivering under control. Before heading back to shore we saw some more whales which gave us a good buzz.
Day 55, 11th June – Kempsey and The Heads (12032km – 12203km)
The rain bucketed down last night and there are quite a few puddles lying around. We took a drive into Kempsey, quickly looked around and just as quickly left. The town is basically cut in half by the river with most of the shopping and older buildings on the west bank. After our tour we followed tourist route 12 which took us back towards the coast and the seaside village of Crescent Head. It is a small village with a caravan park in an ideal beachfront position. I think that you would need to book early if you wanted a site in the summer months. There is also a country club that has a small golf course right on the water. We took a drive up to the headland lookout and were greeted with a large rainbow. Unfortunately, it did not last long as the rain squalls rolled in from the south. Years ago we fed some magpies on the headland and were pleased when the resident flock once again showed up for some lamb tidbits.
Lunch was getting close so it was off to the other head, Hat Head for a nice big juicy hamburger with homemade patties and plenty of beetroot. Thank goodness there was no mayonnaise. Hat Head is much smaller than Crescent Head but it does sport a bowls club and a caravan park. It would be a great spot to stay in summer or if you love fishing. Prior to heading back we checked out the hungry Head Campground. The last 3km is all dirt road and after all the recent rain there are plenty of potholes. The drive was worth it as this national park campground is well grassed which the local kangaroos seem to appreciate and it is an easy walk to the beach. Camping fees are $5 per adult plus a $7 a day charge for the vehicle. If you are staying longer you can purchase an annual pass for $20. There is also vehicle access to the beach which runs all the way to Crescent Head.
Our last stop was the small village of Gladstone which is nestled on the bank of the Macleay River. I think they had more historic buildings here than Kempsey. It seems like the artists like this place as there were a few galleries sequestered here. We bought some expensive vegetables at the fruit and vege shop before heading back to the Rocks. We finished our day with some gentle exercise and a roast lamb dinner.
Day 56, 12th June – South West Rocks (12203km – 12228km)
After breakfast this morning and in between the rain squalls Alice and I managed a walk of a few kilometres. From the caravan park you can take a path along the old river entrance which brings you around to Horseshoe Bay. From here you can easily continue along the beach to Trial Bay Gaol but we opted for a coffee that was brewed with Toby Estate beans. There were plenty of pelicans about as well as a couple of grizzled old fishermen who were out to catch a few black bream.
After lunch I organized my dive for tomorrow and found a spot where I could connect to the internet. After logging on I was able to partially complete my dive course on Diving with Nitrox. Alice meanwhile has decided to take in a movie at the Roxy Theatre. It is a quaint older style building which is also used as an arts theatre. It warms my heart when I see a theatre manager dressed up like a maitre-d in a swish restaurant. There is nothing like a nicely pressed white shirt and black bow tie. After the movie I chauffeured the gorgeous Alice to the Country Club for a fine dinner. The only thing missing from this great evening was the glass slipper.
Day 57, 13th June – Diving with Sharks Again (12228km- 12245km)
I was up reasonably early this morning as I would like to put a dent in my diving homework. After breakfast I headed up to Horseshoe Bay in search of an internet connection. Success, I was able to log onto my course and with a great view was able to successfully complete it. With this task out of the way it was back to the dive shop to get some gear together for the dive this afternoon. With my wetsuit and a vest with a hood in hand I headed back to the bay to search for Alice who had spent the morning looking around the market and the local shops. When I found her she had managed the purchase of a couple of vegetables and a kilo of honey.
After all of our exhaustions we were in need of a coffee. It was back for some more Toby Estate but I felt the need to supplement this with a $3 bacon and egg sandwich. The good wives of the South West Rock Masons were happy to take my donation. After coffee Alice went back to the Roxy for another movie or was it to see the dapper manager. Two movies in two days could be considered suspicious.
I was at the boat ramp at midday to join my fellow divers on the rough ride out to Fish Rock. There was a good swell which caused a couple of the divers to express interest in what they had for lunch. With my extra layer of warmth I felt pretty good when I hit the water. I was even happier when I saw that the visibility had improved to an impressive 25 metres. As soon as we descended the mooring line the Grey Nurse Sharks came into plain view. The whole dive was like swimming in an aquarium and with minimal surge and current the dive was exceptional. There were also plenty of fish, an inquisitive Wobbegong and the Bull Ray from the other day.
After about a 45 minute surface interval it was back in the water for a swim through Fish Rock Cave. The sandy bottom of the cave was so thick with Wobbegong Sharks that it looked like it was carpeted. One of the divers had to turn back due to a faulty computer which left me to bring up the rear. Again we saw some Moray Eels and Lion Fish but the highlight was hand feeding a Loggerhead Turtle. This guy could not get enough of the tidbit that was on offer. It was so voracious that it reminded me of the Butcher Birds that inhabit our back deck. It was another great dive with excellent visibility. I would highly recommend this dive operation for their local knowledge, attention to safety and customer service. They certainly went the extra yard with me and assisted me with small things like getting my fins on. Remember when you get to my age it can be a little difficult bending over in a cramped boat with a weight belt and tank strapped to your torso.
I ended up returning to the van at about 5:00pm. There was no sign of the theatre manager but Alice did have some cold champagne and nibblies ready for our last night at SWR.
Day 58, 14th June – South West Rocks to Broken Head (12245km – 12605km)
We hit the road just after 8:00am and were soon on the Pacific Highway heading north. It seemed ages before we hit the outskirts of Coffs Harbour but when we did our travel speed reduced appreciably. There were that many traffic lights that I thought we were arriving in Sydney. Eventually we made it through this cosmic wormhole and were once again on dual bitumen heading towards Grafton. As we were making pretty good time we decided to stop for a hamburger at New Italy. This rest stop is just south of Woodburn which is the turnoff for Evans Head which was going to be our base for the next three nights. Little Italy has a museum which tells he interesting history of the 200 plus Italians who settled here in the late 1800’s. Suffice to say that this little group is considered to be the first refugees to settle in Australia. Check it out on Wikipedia.
After setting up I managed some light exercise to work out the kinks from the day’s driving. With all the hard work over we both relaxed with a cool drink under and listened to the sounds of the surf. Ah bliss!
Day 59, 15th June – Rainforests and Byron Bay (12605km – 12650km)
We did have some heavy rain last night but this morning we have a bright blue sky. At 7:00am I could not believe the number of surfers who were getting an early morning surf. The weather is that good that I have been reduced to wearing just shorts and a t-shirt for our rainforest walk. A number of vans left this morning and as a result the park is near empty. For the moment we have an uninterrupted view of the water. I can only hope that we do not get any new neighbours this afternoon.
The rainforest walk is only about 2km return and takes you out to the headland. Along the route you are rewarded with great views of the water and the hardy surfers braving the cold waters. The predominant plants are Cottonwood Hibiscus, Pandanus Palms and Honey Banksia. The headland has a grassy knoll with a lookout towards a rock formation known as the Three Sisters. There are also a couple of tracks down to the beach which the surfers like as they can get right out to the point with minimal paddling. The local fishermen also enjoy fishing off the rocks here.
After the walk we jumped into the car and headed into Byron for a glimpse of how some of the well heeled live. As we drove down the main street I was amazed by the number of backpackers and ageing hippies that I saw. We drove down to Palm valley beach where I used to launch our caper cat for some catamaran surfing. The good old days are long gone as I could not see a boat ramp and you needed to pay for parking as the beach is located within a national park. Too much for me so it was off to Wategos Beach where property is definitely in excess of a million dollars. The beach here is excellent and judging by the number of surfers and the unavailability of car spaces it is the place to be. Next stop was a drive up to the lighthouse but at $7 for a parking spot I quickly moved on. We found a free two hour parking space downtown which gave us some time to stroll around the shops. As we were walking we could detect a lot of international dialects which proves that Byron Bay is on the list of destinations to see in Australia. Eventually we had a light lunch and a beer at one of the hotels before heading back to the camp.
There is still nobody camping next to us and I was able to enjoy my afternoon repast with the added bonus of the view. Alice whipped up some great potato and tuna patties which we enjoyed with some Spanish Cava.
Day 60, 16th June – Who’ll Stop The Rain (12650km – 12665km)
With the coming of the dawn, the rain also cometh. At first it was just a sprinkle but as the morning progressed so did the intensity. Our plan of a long walk was put on hold and then cancelled. In the end we had a relaxing day which we spent reading and just doing nothing at all. As evening fell the rain got even heavier which in turn flooded our little area under the annex. Tomorrow will be a big pain as it would appear that we will have to pack up in the rain. Oh what a day!!
Day 61, 17th June – Broken Head to Banora Point (12665km – 12755km)
Well it is State of Origin day and we are off to Banora point to spend an evening with our good friends Jane and Tony Guarino. The weather is quite bleak but the rain held off just long enough for us to pack up everything in a reasonably dry state. We took the scenic route over the hills via Bangalow before hitting the M1 for a speedy trip to Banora Point.
Tony and Jane are marvelous hosts and really made us feel at home. I suspect that Tony suffers from a little OCD as everything has a place and kept in immaculate condition. The lawn was so well kept that we could have eaten dinner off it. The only let down for the evening was the Maroons failure to wrap up the series.
Day 62, 18th June – Banora Point to Brisbane (12755km – 12905km)
When we awoke Jane and Tony had already left for work. True to form they had set up a nice little breakfast for us so that we could just relax and take off when we were ready. Our trip home was indirect as we wanted to travel via Canungra. We opted for exit 73 via South Nerang which eventually hooks up with the Nerang-Beaudesert Road. A sausage roll and a coffee was calling us so we had to stop at the Canungra bakery to answer the call. Absolutely delicious!
The aim of travelling this direction was so we could stop at Ceadervale to visit Alice’s mum and sister. We had a great afternoon but reluctantly it was time to leave for the final leg of our journey. It was around 3:30pm and just under 13,000km when we pulled into Lucy Street. This was nearly the most difficult part of the journey as all the mothers were trying to park out the street so they could visit the park. I managed to stop two of them from taking up the space for the caravan. After a little reversing magic our journey through the eastern part of Australia had come to an end.
There were many beautiful places that we did not have time to visit or enough time to fully appreciate them. It looks like we will have to save them for another adventure in economy. Until then the old adage remains true, “There is no place like home”.
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