Wet & Wild and a Little Hoarse

Monday 18th October - Fish Market

Another day and another change in the weather as today we have a slight drizzle. You just can't pick it. At this stage we will just hang around the hotel and do a few running repairs such as a well needed shave and a manicure. With a little bit of luck the weather will clear which will allow us to get out and explore a little more of this charming place.

In the end we caught our local mini bus into town with the aim of going to the fish market for a meal. There are two aspects to eating here and that is too choose a fish and a restaurant.

There are a number of restaurants who all charge the same price of 5TL for cooking your delicacy so in the end it is all up to the head waiter who will try just about anything to entice you in. Our guy got us by reducing the price of our beer and wine.

Next step was to purchase our seafood from one of the many fish mongers that yell out their daily specials. As I don't like bones I picked a fillet of fish that was very similar to Mackerel and a small Calamari that set me back 10 TL. Alice went for a half kilo of prawns for 13 TL, Tony had Mackerel for 7 TL and Julie a whole sea bream for 10 TL.

Back at the restaurant we handed over our purchases where they were cooked to perfection. The prawns were done in a light chili and garlic sauce and the fish barbecued with garlic butter and came with salad, toasted Turkish bread and Parmesan cheese.

After lunch Tony and I decided we needed a trim to make ourselves beautiful for our main squeezes. We found a “Berber” who also offered massages as well as the usual cut and shampoo. Tony's Berber was quite short and had to stand on his tiptoes to reach his massive scone. The end result was that I came out looking like Daniel Craig and Tony like Woody Harleson. Watch out Alice and Julie!

Tuesday 19th October – Blue Cruise

Lots of rain overnight and a morning thunder storm had us wondering what would be in store for us when we set sail (motor) on our Gulet. Over breakfast the rain stopped and some patches of blue appeared which has given us some hope of a reasonable day. It is like Brisbane in reverse, after the thunder the skies clear and everything is fresh.

Our departure from Fethiye Harbour was delayed as there was a problem with the Hassle Free travel agency with whom we had booked our accommodation and cruise.

Apparently they had not forwarded any of the money that we had paid and were stuffing V-Go around. I spoke to the agent and reminded him that we would be back in Istanbul and that I would involve the police if he did not honour our booking. Eventually, it was sorted out through a third party and I suspect that it was a matter of face. I will be having a word when we return to Istanbul.

We motored out at about 12.30pm in reasonable conditions but it soon deteriorated. The swell was up and there were a number of green faces. Just as we pulled up for a late lunch the rain bucketed down so we all retreated to the main cabin. Half the guests retreated to their cabins but Alice and I remained on deck as we motored over for a look at Butterfly Valley and the Blue Lagoon. Both places are beautiful but today the sea conditions do not permit a landing.

In the late afternoon we anchored off St Nicholas (Of Santa Claus Fame) Island. A couple of the more hardy boys dived in for a swim but the rest of us opted for a hot coffee. We were just about ready to visit the Byzantine ruins on the island when a big thunder storm came over. Alice quickly disappeared into the cabin. It blew over quickly but it was getting dark so we left the ruins to the local goats and cats that inhabit the island.

Wednesday 20th October – Rough Seas

What a night we had! Howling wind, roaring thunder, the sky lit up with sheet and forked lightning and torrential rain. Lucky for us we are all secure tucked in behind the island and safely ensconced in our cosy little cabin. Our cabin contains a comfortable double bed, small wardrobe, about one metre of floor space and a ensuite for those more private moments.

At 7.15am the skipper weighed anchor and we made a break for our next destination. As soon as we left the island' shelter the wind and sea hit us front on. Our gulet was bobbing up and down like a cork. The decision was made very quickly to turn back to St Nicholas island. The only good omen was that it had stopped raining and we could see some blue sky on the horizon.

After a good breakfast some of the younger ones went in for a swim but we remained on deck and enjoyed our surroundings. By 11.00am there was a bit more sun out and the wind had dropped a little. It was I thought, time to get wet. As soon as I hit the water I did not regret my decision. The water was surprisingly warm so I struck out for the distant bank of the island. On arrival I was greeted by a couple of mewing white cats who looked like they were glad of the company. There was a sign which confirmed that St Nicholas had spent time here and that the island was once an important port of call.

After lunch we motored off again and this time the conditions although not perfect were suitable for us to continue. Tony and I had popped a seasick tablet which allowed us to enjoy our ocean voyage. Alice however was looking decidedly green and eagerly chewed on a tablet to relieve her nausea. Julie just soldiered on showing no effect from the constant sideway and up and down movements.

We traveled slowly just off the coastline and for the next six hours enjoyed our vista of the rugged Turkish coast. The time was interrupted by short bursts of fishing from the hand lines that we trolled behind the boat and plenty of conversation. We had a beautiful sunset as the bright red orb of the sun dropped below a distant island. This was replaced by a bright full silvery moon and the evening star which reflected light off the much calmer water.

At around 7.30pm we dropped anchor in a beautiful little bay off the town of Kas. A beautiful little island provided plenty of shelter from the elements. After a great dinner and a couple of beers on deck I adjourned to my cabin as I am sounding a little like Kermit the Frog.

Thursday 21st October – Blue Skies At Last
My voice has deteriorated overnight but I feel okay. The one bright thing is that the sun is shining and it looks as if we will have good weather today. After breakfast the crew will take us over to the town of Kas where we can pick up Cash and replenish the dwindling supplies. I will see what I can find for a sore throat.

After a breakfast in the marina surrounded by well heeled yachties we had a relaxing two hours walking around Kas. We barely scratched the surface but Kas wove its spell and left us wanting to see more of this charming little town.

The town itself does not sport the finest beaches but the atmosphere of the place is wonderfully mellow. The surrounding areas offer everything from first class scuba diving, shopping for the girls,and paragliding from the peak of the 500 metre mountain that surrounds the town. There is also a plethora of restaurants that make choosing where to eat a difficult but fun chore.

When we were leaving the harbour I spotted my first and only turtle and some flying fish that were skipping over the water. A swim followed shortly after and the water was so good that even Julie and Alice decided to get wet. After lunch the captain decided to show us that he was a real sailor and hoisted the jib. It was great not to hear the steady thump, thump, thump of the diesel.

We motored along the shore of Kekova Island where Byzantine ruins,partly submerged 6m below the sea and called the sunken city. This was the result of a series of earthquakes that occurred in the 2nd century AD.

Across from the sunken city is the little outpost of Kalekoy which is home to the ancient ruins of Simena (Lycian). There is an old Crusader fortress perched above the hamlet below that gives great views of the surrounding area. Julie, Alice and I made the trek to the top where we watched the sunset over the islands and Mediterranean sea. Tony meanwhile was sleeping off the four cans of Efes that he had for lunch. A little later we were anchored in a secluded bay sheltered from all the elements.

Dinner on deck under the stars was a great way for me at least to finish the day. Alice and I are having an early mark as I can hardly talk which I suppose is a blessing for some. Tony and Julie with a few others caught a speedboat to Smugglers Cove for a few island drinks and some dancing. Judging by the noise they made on their return, I reckon that they had a good time. Tony later told me that it looked like the set of Gilligan's Island and that the Germans who were on the dance floor appeared like extras on the set.

Friday 22nd October – An Offer Too Good To Refuse

A swim before breakfast really woke us up as the surface water was quite cold. Luckily it was warmer just below. The captain has made us all an offer to stay an extra night on the gulet with all meals included for the never to be repeated price of 50 TL per person. Naturally we accepted this bargain along with five others. Martin and Jane a mature English couple could not stay as they had other accommodation booked.

Later in the morning we stopped at the pirates cave for a swim. The water was crystal clear which made it easier whilst swimming inside the large cavern. There was a large rock in the middle to sit on and at one end was a small beach that led to what may have been pirates treasure. Most likely it led to a colony of bats whose shrieking gave the place an eerie feeling.

After lunch we said our farewells to Martin and Jane and motored off to another island. The gulet anchored for the night in a secluded cove with two other boats. A couple of us grabbed some gear and snorkeled close to the shoreline. The marine life was fair and we saw a cuttlefish, trumpet fish and a big school of bait fish. The crew were busy with a spear gun and caught a bucketful of fish for tonight's barbecue dinner. A few beers underneath a starry sky ended another great day.

Saturday 23rd October – Kas Again

So many decisions too make when you wake up on a Gulet. Will I have a swim before breakfast or not? A hot coffee won out as I could remember the coolness of yesterdays early swim. Tony and I are becoming real Nancy boys. Over breakfast a couple of the local goats serenaded us as they walked along the rugged shoreline. We eventually braved the water and were pleasantly surprised by the warmth. Julie floated around on a noodle whilst Alice did a slow breaststroke up the channel.

A quick motor and we arrive at another cove with a bank lined by pine trees. There is supposed to be a hot spring here so I was looking forward to a swim after finishing the last few pages of my book.

At 1.00pm we are supposed to catch a bus from the town of Demre to our next destination. The captain's mobile goes off, good reception the whole cruise, and after the call he informs us that we are now going to Kas. As the anchor is coming up he explains that his boss needs the boat there because he had buggered up the bookings of a new group. We did not mind going backwards as it gave us a couple of more hours at sea.

Well what a great trip we had, good people, good crew and in the end great weather. If you are ever in Turkey make sure you take a blue cruise. The 3N/4D option is probably the best as I think a bigger cabin would be necessary for a longer cruise.

After we settled up our rather hefty bar tab which was due to all the wine consumed by Alice and Julie and not the beer that Tony and I drank, we jumped on a bus at 2.45pm bound for Olympos. The bus trip was about 2.5 hours and followed the coastline for the majority of the journey. We left the bus at the turnoff for Olympos, another 10km away,and farewelled our fellow cruise members (Jordan, Adam, RC, Catherine and Rebecca).

Our bus departed at 6.00pm and drove down a beautiful valley surrounded by pine trees growing off the rugged slopes of the mountains. We are staying at Bayrams Treehouse Pension for 35TL per person a night and that includes breakfast and dinner.

The bungalows are all close to each other and built among an orange orchard. The rooms are basic, clean and the water hot. Out in the courtyard for dinner which was incredibly good we relaxed on a little platform with cushions scattered all around. A very mellow place to chill.

Maiden Flight in Oludeniz

Monday 11th October – Ephesus

Our tour today was to the ancient city of Ephesus. We went through the gates at around 10.00am with hordes of other people. Apparently there were a couple of cruise ships in. The site has been excavated and restored for about 100 years and as a result there is plenty to see. Just outside the main entrance is the tomb of Luke the Evangelist. Inside the gates is the Odeon which was basically a Council Hall where political issues were discussed. There are so many aspects to Ephesus that it would take ages to write about.

In summary we saw the temple of Hadrian, Fountain of Trajan, Gymnasium Baths, Library of Celsus and The Great Theatre. One interesting aspect was the Roman mens toilets. Nice little slots cut into the marble and once the business was done it was taken away by running water. Apparently the wealthy Romans would bring along a slave to warm up the cold marble so that they could enjoy a comfortable sitting. The 125000 seat theatre has been host to great singers including Tom Jones, Frank Sinatra, Sting and Tony Aitchinson.

After a fantastic lunch it was off to a leather factory where they put on a fashion show in an attempt to lure some Turkish Lira from the hip pockets of gullible tourists. I sat out in the car park and when Alice returned with the news that she had purchased a beautiful red jacket I could not have been happier.

Our next stop was the home of the Virgin Mary. There is no definite proof that she spent her last days here but there are strong indicators that she did. The Catholics and Muslim faiths however do recognize the site and as a result many pilgrims travel here. A baptismal pool was discovered in 1961 which is not far from the church which has been reconstructed on this site. There were many people at the site and our guide had to restrain the many pensioners who caused a stampede when they saw the church. You would have thought they were going to expire before they could get inside.

Outside the church there is a fresh water spring that is supposed to have been blessed and once again there was a mad crush to get to this potent elixir. I managed to fill my water bottle and will see if it has an impact on my receding hair line. There is also a wishing wall. You write a note on a piece of paper and stuff it into the wall amongst the thousands of other notes. It is like a miniature version of the Wailing Wall in Jerusalem.

Next stop was the Temple of Artemis which was recognized as one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. These days there is a big hole, a few building blocks and a column where this great temple once stood. You just have to use your imagination.

A riot nearly occurred as our mini van made the turn into a carpet factory. It was a unanimous decision and our driver who also did not wish to go in quickly turned around and took us back into town. He joined the majority of us in the consumption of a few beers in the local cafe/park.

After 100 TL of beers we adjoined to the terrace of his hotel for further relaxation. It was an impromptu event which we all enjoyed over more beer, wind and some take away Turkish Pide (pizza). To make it a memorable evening we also had a small earthquake that registered about 3.5 on the Richter scale.

Tuesday 12th October – Happy Anniversary

Today Tony and Julie celebrate their 8th wedding anniversary. The weather is overcast and we are getting some intermittent showers. We have nothing planned for today so we can relax, as if we are not already, and take it easy by browsing around Selcuk.

We had a nice little lunch of “Gozleme” which is spinach, cheese and potato wrapped in a flat Turkish bread. The venue was Ali Baba's restaurant and our delicious meal was coked by Mrs Baba. Ali drives all the guests of the ANZ guesthouse around the town and to local sites. I suspect that he does all right because many of them end up in his carpet shop around the corner. Nevertheless you can't help but like him.

Alice and I then ventured off for a look at the Basilica of St. John. According to the literature this church would have been the 7th largest in the world if it was still active today. St John's tomb, today, is marked by a simple marble slab.

We were going out for dinner to celebrate Tony and Julie's anniversary but ended up on our rooftop terrace swilling a few beers and wines. Tony brought out the guitar and he and Mike entertained us for a few hours on the rooftop. A little reminiscent of the Beatles. Words for the music came from Chris's (Mike's wife) laptop. Ah the marvels of technology! Ernie and Leslee from Tasmania entertained us with some jive dancing. To ward off the hunger the girls ventured down to Ali Baba's and ordered takeaway. It was a good night and Tony and Mike were really in the zone.

Wednesday 13th September – Hierapolis

Up bright and early today as we are leaving our guest house for a three hour trip to Pamukkale to visit the famous Travertines.

It is hard to describe the way that the calcium cliffs shine in the sun but it is like the mountains are covered in snow. The ruins of Hierapolis evoke what life was like in the early centuries where Romans, Jews, Christians and Pagans. The whole area was set up like a modern day spa where people came for health cures from the hot sulphuric pools. The whole site is covered in ruins. Sites include the temple of Apollo, Byzantine Church, a 12,000 seat Roman Theatre, museum and the famous antique pool where Cleopatra had a bit of a dalliance with Mark Anthony. There is also an octagonal Martyrium of St Philip the Apostle built on the site where it is believed St Philip was martyred.

We decided to pay 25 TL for a swim in the antique pool where you can bathe amid submerged sections of original fluted marble columns. The water temperature is a languid 36 degrees. Tony felt that he was a bit like Richard Burton who starred in the 60's movie “Cleopatra”. I on the other hand felt like I was in a busy watery scrum as hordes of overweight Russian men and women competed for seats on the submerged columns. They say you will feel ten years younger after a swim here. I never looked so good! To finish off our time here we took a magic carpet ride. You will have to wait for the video on this one.

At 4.00pm we transferred to a mini bus so we could catch our bus to Fethiye which will take about 4.5 hours. In the bus park a young American couple were throwing a Frisbee which caused great amusement among the staff working at the bus station. They joined in and had a tremendous time throwing a piece of plastic. I think they were a little sad when it was time for the bus to depart.

It wasn't long before we started to get a little rain as our very cramped midi bus took on the mountains surrounding Pamukkale. As usual the bus driver was excellent however the WC at our first stop has lived up to the norm. The girls are tired of having to pay 1 TL for a squat toilet with no toilet paper. They reckon that they should not have to pay for inferior ablutions but I guess it keeps someone employed. It might be a good program for those who never want to enter the workforce in Australia!

We finally arrived at the bus station at around 9.30pm and I did a quick walk around to ascertain if our pre-booked hotel had sent someone to pick us up. Alas, nobody was there so we decided to have a Doner Kebab to ward off the munchies. After our feed we found a taxi and made our way to the hotel for a well earned rest. There were a few young ones having some drinks at the bar and one girl had a laugh that you get when you have had one too many drinks. You know the sound, just like fingernails scraping across a blackboard. Fortunately, we were too tired for it to be a problem but I did hear of a few complaints in the morning.

Thursday 14th October – Fethiye

After a reasonably good nights sleep at the V-Go Guest House we awoke to gray skies and intermittent rain. I guess the weather in Turkey has finally caught up with us. We pondered about what we could do in this inclement weather, Shopping! No, that would be too easy. W did what eve5yone who comes to Turkey should do, indulge yourself at a Turkish Haman.

We organized a pickup from our hotel and were soon on the other side of Fethiye sitting down discussing what sort of treatment we would have. All of us decided on the traditional Turkish bath with an extra thirty minute massage and a face pack for the girls. It wasn't long and we were all sporting our sarongs with our togs underneath in a very hot sauna.

When we couldn't take the heat any longer Tony and I went into the wash house to receive our punishment whilst Alice and Julie had their face packs applied. Tony was the first one to be laid out on the marble slab and seemed to enjoy (just kidding) the slap across his buttocks that his burly Turkish male body scrubber gave him.

After a good scrubbing Tony received a liberal dousing of water to remove all the dead skin from his body. He then moved over to the washing side of the slab where another Turkish man was ready to give him a good wash. They really froth up the suds and it is like soft bubbles landing on your skin when they start.

After a through wash you are given a good soaking before they start on shampooing your hair. I don't think Tony has ever been so clean! Meanwhile Julie and Alice appeared looking like extras from the Mel Gibson movie “Braveheart”. After the face mask was removed they both looked years younger not that they have aged that much.

The massage that we had later was of a high quality and left us all feeling relaxed. At about $40 each this was a great way to while away a few rainy hours.

While I was watching the Turkish CNN in the cool down area of the Haman they reported severe flooding and mudslides in the town of Bursa which is not far from Istanbul. The majority of Turkey at the moment is in the grip of this severe weather depression. Hopefully, we will be able to enjoy the next few days as this area has a lot to offer.

After a good lunch of Lentil soup, pide, doner kebab and beer Tony and I headed back to our hotel for a number of beers, Along the way we passed the fish market where you can buy a fish and then ask the local restaurant to cook it up for you. The cost is 5 TL which also includes a salad. Not a bad way to have a fresh fish dinner. The girls mean while have decided to do what they do best, SHOP!

The girls finally returned from their expedition at around 6.30pm. Julie was clutching a new leather Jimmy Choo handbag and there were even presents for Tony and David. We decided to stay in and partake of the house barbecue dinner which incidentally was delicious.

After dinner there was a hive of activity with the owners gift wrapping heaps of shirts. The girls had also noticed them doing this the night we arrived. It looked like they were running a clothing export business after dark. Alice and Julie could not contain themselves and needed to know what was going on. They pulled over a staff member who explained that the owner and his Belgian girlfriend of 10 years were getting married and these were presents for the 1000 guests that would be attending the upcoming nuptials. The wedding will go for three days and they can accomplish this without the help of a wedding planner. Good luck to them.

Most of you would know that between us we have six unmarried daughters. Alice and Julie thought that our young Turkish barman and jack of all trades, Caesar, might be a good catch for one of these girls. The only photograph available was one of Telissa which impressed him no end. We assured him that all the girls were “beauties” and worth at least forty camels.

Friday 15th October – 12 Island Tour and Scuba Diving

No need to play the Carpenters “Rainy Days and Mondays” as we have woken up to some blue skies which will hopefully last. We even managed to have a hot shower before heading down to breakfast.

I caught the local mini bus down to the wharf and joined Mermaid Diving for the day. The cost was 80 TL including lunch and all gear. The boat was nice and big with plenty of room for sunbathing as well as gearing up. Our first dive was called Three Tunnels and involved swimming through some narrow caves and rock fissures. The visibility was good and there was a reasonable variety of Mediterranean reef fish.

We did not have our second dive until about 3.30pm which meant that it was a little colder. This dive was not as good as the first as there was not much to see as we swam about 200 metres along a rock wall. The most prolific sea creature I saw was a Fire Worm which looks remarkably like a centipede and will give you a nasty sting if touched. The boat pulled into the quay at 5.30pm and I headed home for a beer.

The 12 Island tourists reported back at 6.00pm and advised that they had perfect weather and a brilliant day. The following is an extract from Alice's diary and verbatim I will quote it: “left the harbour with gray skies ahead but we are hopeful and it paid off. Only a few drops fell and it seemed that we were chasing the clouds away, motoring into sunshine and watching the scenery as we went. First swim stop we all dived in for a refreshing swim as we were told by the barman/crew member that no swim, no lunch.

Then it was off to a lunch location. We were given a lunch ticket depending on what we chose fish or chicken. Tony took his ticket for a swim (he is such a blond) so it was lost somewhere in the Mediterranean. He was told (jokingly) that this was a big problem - no ticket, no lunch.

Stop three was another swim at Flat Island in the idyllic waters. Stop four another swim and meet the locals on Red Island which is also known as Rabbit Island. No prizes for guessing who the locals were. They were well trained too as they came down to greet the boats. A very relaxing day.”

This evening we traipsed off to dinner with a Canadian couple, Paul and Cindy, to try out a cheap feed on a boat that is moored at the waterfront. The setting was basic but very relaxing which was right up my alley.

They have been raving about the fried Anchovies so we ordered three plates of the little suckers. Now they were not the Coles supermarket style, full of salt and only suitable for a caesar salad or pizza, they were crispy and quite edible. Tony however left a plate full of tails.

The fish and chips that followed were a bit ordinary but the beers were cheap. We finished off with a drink at a nightclub where they were playing a good mix of music. Sitting next to us was a mother, daughter combination that Julie thought were on the game.

The younger one had a fake tan, boob job, hair in a blond ballroom style, bleached white teeth, white mini dress and white accessories. To put it simply she was a fake but Mum was an even bigger fake, a cougar on the make, mutton dressed up as lamb.

Saturday 16th October – Thunder in the Sky

Woke this morning to the sound of thunder and dark forbidding skies. At breakfast the heavens opened up and the rain pelted down. Around 10.00am the weather cleared so we decided to try and find the Fethyie Museum.

After a few wrong turns and wandering around several back streets dodging puddles and barking dogs we found the museum. Three Turkish Lira gained us entry into this small but well laid out museum. There are some good archaeological exhibits from the Lycians who dwelled in this area from about 1000 BC to 300 BC when Alexander The Great conquered them. There was also a collection of artifacts from the Hellenistic and Roman periods.

We then proceeded uphill to try and find the Lycian Tombs. It did not take long before we came across these old tombs that had been carved into the limestone rock. They must have been prominent men as the view was stupendous. The carving was reminiscent of Petra but obviously not of the same scale. I paid 8TL for the privilege while the others paid 4TL for a freshly squeezed orange juice.

On the way down for lunch we passed some very interesting buildings which still had quarters for the family goat. It was so interesting that Julie received a hit in the head from an apple which was thrown over the balcony of a house by an old woman. You could see on her face that she was mortified for not seeing Julie but the language barrier prevented her from apologizing.

We were once again in the main shopping area where Alice and Julie tried the patience of many store owners who endeavoured to tempt them with their wares. After one too many shops Tony and I headed for a bar to have yet another Efes as well as to escape the drizzle that had started up again. It took a couple of minutes to find one that was not full of Turkish men smoking cigarettes and playing backgammon. Eventually, the girls rejoined us and much to our surprise they had not bought too many items.

Julie decided to browse the shops like an internet surfer hooked on Google for a little longer while we headed back to our hotel. We had not gone 100 metres when Tony decided that he needed to pee. There was no man at the WC so he went and relieved himself of a few Efes, On the way out he did the right thing and waited for the man to pay his dues. He handed over 10TL and only received 5TL in change. I could not believe that he had paid the price of nearly two beers for a pee. As Julie says “ no matter what you never get change from the WC. The moral of the story is always carry lose change when you are caught short in Turkey and don't stress when you know that you've been had.

Finished off the day with Tony playing guitar, telling jokes and enjoying another barbecue dinner. Life is good.

Sunday 17th October – Free Falling

Just cannot pick the weather as today the sun is out again and we have beautiful blue skies. The four of us have decided to try a spot of paragliding, you know just run and jump off a cliff. We headed for the small town of Oludeniz which is about 16km southeast of Fethiye.

Our first sight of the beach as we were driving down the mountain reminded of us of paradise. The sheltered crystal blue lagoon is beside a lush national park, a long spit of sandy beach, and Baba Dag (Mt Baba) casting it's shadow across the sea. It is hard to describe the colour of the water but it is like a crystal blue most likely caused by the brilliant white stones that lie beneath the surface. The water is so salty that it was almost impossible to sink. The area is also called the dead sea.

We all had enjoyable swims and relaxed on the 17 TL beach chairs which did include an umbrella. We have been entertained all day to the sounds of dance music and the air fest. Some of the novice paragliders have nearly taken out a few pedestrians on the boardwalk while others have crashed into ice cream concessions. The professionals have been performing some amazing stunts such as 25 continuous somersaults. We even had a Birdman who did a base jump from an ultra light and then sped across the sky like superman at 200kmph in his wing suit before opening his parachute just above the beach.

At 4.00pm we headed up to the Gravity Paragliding school for our taste of tandem flying. It wasn't long before we were sitting in the back of a four wheel drive tearing up the slopes of Baba Dag (1960 metres). We traveled for just over 30 minutes through a beautiful national park with ancient pine trees covered in lichen. I think we were more terrified of falling off the mountain and tumbling down that rocky scree face than the impending jump.

Tony was the first brave soul to take a leap of faith and was quickly followed by Julie. Just picture Tony, his knees knocking as he takes a few fateful steps before jumping off a ridge 6000 feet up and then comfortably seated, gracefully drifting over the velvety indigo of the sea and feeling the caress of the breeze on his face while the sun beats down on his wispy blond locks. Julie thought it was a great experience as she reckoned that the G forces removed a few wrinkles.

After I landed we waited patiently, patiently, patiently for Alice to drop out of the sky. I kept looking up hoping that the next parachute would be hers. A little while later the sun had set but it was still light enough to see. I started humming the old Smokie song “Where the Heck is Alice”. I told Julie and Tony to go and have a look at their video of the flight.

It was then that they were informed that Alice's flight was canceled due to a lack of wind and clouds at the jump off point. The other issue was that there were a number of novice paragliders as Oludeniz was hosting an international air fest. Better safe than sorry.

I must admit that I was a little anxious and only relaxed when I saw her smiling face. The team apologized for the delay and gave Alice a free T shirt and us a discount on our photos. They then drove us into Fethiye and recommended that we eat at a local restaurant which supposedly served good food and only had Turkish customers.

The guys also ate there and we are not sure whether they received a kickback or not. Anyway the food was good and reasonably priced. We picked up a mini bus at the front of the restaurant which dropped us at our front door at 10.00pm. It's off to bed because we are all knackered.

TURKISH DELIGHTED

Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir (a mouthful) was the most famous of all Ottoman confectioners. He came to Istanbul from the mountain town of Kastamonu in 1777 and opened a shop in the old city where he concocted delicious boiled sweets and the translucent jellied jewels known to Turks as “lokum” and to the rest of the world as Turkish Delight.

Tuesday 5th October – Goodbye Santorini, Hello Istanbul

Up at 5.00am this morning for an early morning flight with Aegean Air to Athens. We have a six hour transfer before heading off to Istanbul where we will meet up with our good friends Tony and Julie for part two of our amazing journey.

After a fifty minute flight it was a perfect touch down in Istanbul. As we disembarked we noticed that there was a huge number of flights arriving. As we approached the immigration counter we encountered a sea of people all trying to figure out what to do next. Alice stood in a queue while I went off to investigate if we were indeed in the correct line. When I returned there was Julie and Tony standing with Alice.

Apparently Alice heard a voice behind her and there was Julie. That was an incredible piece of luck, two couples from two continents meeting each other in the middle of a crowded airport. After purchasing our 90 day visa the four of us joined the long line for immigration. Once we were processed it was off to the baggage carousel to pick up our bags. We had spent so much time inside that the carousel had stopped.

I eventually located our driver who was transferring us to the Peninsula Hotel. We are staying in the Sultanahmet area and are very close to all the major sites. Our room is small but comfortable with the only downside being that there is no fridge to keep our beer and wine cool. Talking of cool the weather here is a lot colder and we will have to venture out in our winter warmies. A nice Turkish dinner at a corner restaurant finished off what was a long day for all of us

Wednesday 6th October – Orientation

Just after 6.00am we were woken from our pleasant sleep by loudspeakers calling the faithful to prayer. There is no escaping this cacophony of noise which somehow adds to the charm and excitement of being in another country.

After a rather nice leisurely breakfast on the rooftop which overlooks the Marmara Sea Tony and David set off to the Hassle Free Tourist agency. Our goal was to purchase onwards bus tickets to Eceabat where we will visit the Gallipoli Peninsula. Having accomplished this rather simple task we joined the girls for some local orientation.

In quick succession we saw the Aya Sofya, Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace. As we are returning to Istanbul in November we did not spend any time visiting these sites. We did however visit the Basilica Cistern.

This extraordinary cistern was built by the Roman Emperor Justinian in AD 532. It was used to store water for the great palace and surrounding buildings but eventually closed. The cistern is 65m wide and 143m long and it's roof is supported by 336 columns arranged in 12 rows. It was constructed using columns, capitals and plinths from ruined buildings. We took a brief interlude in the cavernous depths and played dress up Ottomans and had our pictures taken in full regalia. After all this grandeur we headed off in search of the Grand Bazaar. The boys decided that a cold Effe was in order and allowed Julie and Alice one hour to check out the bargains.

It took us a while to work out what direction to travel in order to get back to our hotel. A bottle of red, a few beers and some ruffle potato chips on the rooftop helped us wile away the afternoon. An early dinner in Kangaroo Alley (local nickname) which was again delicious was in order as we have a 5.30am wake up call in front of us.

Thursday 7th October – Gallipoli

Up nice and early for our five hour drive to Eceabat. The drive out of the city was very interesting, especially for me.

Bus nuts only should read the following text. We followed the Istanbul Busway for quite a few kilometres and I was amazed at the numbers of passengers waiting at busway stops and the numbers on board vehicles (Jam Packed).

The busway has been built by taking the two centre lanes of a major freeway. There are centre platforms which means that the buses must drive on the wrong side of the road (left) in order to pick up passengers. There did not seem to be an issue for the drivers. Bus types were rigid, articulated and bi-articulated. There are no passing lanes at stations but as in Greece it was all door boarding and prepaid fares which obviously speeds up boarding times and busway capacity. I could only see one route number which was number 34 the old Pinkenba route number.

Back again to reality! The trip out went through some interesting countryside with a mix between industrial, farming and seaside communities. We arrived at our home for the next two days, the Crowded House Hotel at around 12.30pm. The hotel asked us if we wanted to join the Gallipoli tour that was departing in 30 minutes. The weather has been a bit dicky so we decided to go just in case it turns again.

We set off in a howling wind and the temperature a miserly 15 degrees. Like many others this journey for me is a pilgrimage. My grandfather on my mother's side whom I never met, fought at Gallipoli. He survived the carnage and eventually returned to Australia at the end of the war.

Our Turkish guide was very knowledgeable and managed to fill in a few blanks of the campaign that I was not aware of. The tour started off at Brighton Beach where the Anzacs were supposed to have landed. Who knows how it would have turned out if they had gotten the landing right?

Our next stop was the Beach Cemetery which has the grave site of John Simpson who was responsible for repatriating about 300 wounded soldiers down to the beach on his donkey. We then headed up to Anzac Cove, Ari Burnu Cemetery and the ANZAC Commemorative Site.

Leaving the beach we headed up to the Lone Pine Cemetery and Memorial. Lone Pine is the major landmark for the Australians. This area was where many Australians lost their lives in what now appears to be senseless charges against the Turks. At Johnston's Jolly we were able to walk in the trenches of the Australians and the Turks. The trenches were a mere 8 metres apart.

Next stop was the Nek which featured in the movie Gallipoli. The last stop was the Chunuk Bair Cemetery and New Zealand memorial. The kiwi Anzacs managed to take this very strategic high ground in August 1915. They managed to hold on for two days before being forced back by the Turks who were led by Mustafa Kemal who later became the first president of Turkey, known as Ataturk, or father of the Turks.

The most successful part of the entire campaign was the evacuation. Anzac Cove and Suvla Bay were evacuated in December 1915 and the Helles area was emptied of troops by 9 January 1916. Only a handful of lives were lost, an ironic end to a campaign which had cost the lives of 36000 Commonwealth, 10000 French and around 86000 Turks.

It was an emotional day and I confess to having the odd tear in my eye. It is a journey that I believe most Australians should make if the opportunity arises.

Friday 8th October – Europe to Asia and Back Again

Nothing is planned for today so we had a leisurely breakfast before deciding to head over to Asia for a day out. As soon as we stepped outside the wind which was around yesterday hit us full blast. The temperature is around 12 degrees and could freeze the you know what off a brass monkey. I have not been this cold since a winters weekend at Lamington Plateau. To reach Asia all we have to do is pay the ferryman 2TL and he will take us across the Dardanelles from Eceabat to Canakkale. The trip across takes approximately 30 minutes.

Canakkale is a hive of activity and much larger than the sleepy town we had just left.

Whilst walking along the street in search of the markets that are supposed to operate ever Friday the girls are halted in their tracks at the sight of a pastry shop. They could not resist the temptation of all the delicious cakes and biscuits that were being displayed.

They ordered Nescafe but received a cup of tea to have with their sweets. Tony who was clutching his “man bag” also ordered one but received nothing. We think that he confused the waiter and ended up paying for Alice. Back on the street the girls had no trouble finding their way to the market. Funny that!

The markets were teeming with locals who like the girls were out to snaffle a bargain. On the other hand Tony and I were looking for a spot to sit down and have a drink. No such luck as we could not see a bar anywhere.

There marketplace was covered and well laid out with plenty of space between the aisles. There were sections for fish, fruit, vegetables and clothing. In the end we were all tempted to buy something. I was so cold that I succumbed to purchasing a Lacoste jumper to ward off the chills and a pair of Levis just for show. The prices were so good that Tony bought 2 pair of jeans, Alice a jacket and jeans whilst Julie showed the most restraint with a pair of happy hippy pants.

After a late lunch we braced ourselves against the cold and went back to Europe. We decided to stay in doors and relaxed in our rooms with a few beers, scotch, a bottle of red and potato chips. Tony pulled out his traveling guitar and sang a few songs that put us all in a relaxed frame of mind. A great way to end the day.

Saturday 9th October – Selcuk

Today we have to catch the ferry along with our luggage back over to Cannakale where we will pick up a bus at 12.30pm to Selcuk. On the ferry trip three Turkish boys approached us and asked if we could help them with a vocabulary test. Alice being a TESOL teacher jumped straight in and started marking the test. Alice ranked it as a high level test and corrected all the wrong answers. The boys thanked her and went away smiling thinking that they would get an “A” for that test.

The road south took us over the mountains and followed the coast line for many miles. Adjacent to the road there were millions of olive trees with gnarled trunks and new branches bearing unripened olives. Most of the land was agricultural however there were many large towns in this part of Turkey.

Our first stop after three hours was the town of Bergama which is famous for its cottage industries and the ancient site of Pergamum. The Acropolis is the major site of the area and sits at about 350 metres. There are ruined temples to the gods Athena and the guy who always pops up Dionysus as well as the Altar of Zeus. The highlight for us was the vertigo-inducing 10,000 seat theatre which is built into the hillside to conserve space.

Our guide wanted someone from our group to sing a song to prove how good the acoustics were. Tony needed no encouragement and with me as his poor excuse for a backup singer belted a Tracey Gibbs song “The Truth About Men”. Tony received a round of applause from the packed theatre and the enthralled onlookers who were peering over the edge of the parapet. The girls said the acoustics were good.

We also had a quick look at the Red Basilica which was originally a dedicated to Egyptian gods. In his Revelation St. John wrote that this was one of the seven churches of the Apocalypse, singling it out as the throne of the devil.

Given that here are cottage industries in the area we could not escape the clutches of a carpet factory. After plying us with a very nice red they escorted us through the facility. There are no chemical dyes used and every carpet is hand woven in silk or wool. The number of knots and the time taken are large factors in the price. They rolled out more carpets that a Rugs a Million salesman. There were some beautiful carpets but everything we liked was in excess of a thousand dollars. No problem, just give us your credit card details and like radio rentals pay it off over time. They were nice but we had to decline and get on our way.

Around 8.00pm we reached the town of Izmir which has a population in excess of 3 million and is Turkey's third biggest city.

After a rather good and cheap meal we hit the highway and sped off to Selcuk. At 10.00pm we arrived at the ANZ guest house. Unfortunately our booked rooms were not available until the next day so we were given a downgrade. It doesn't matter as we are tired and will soon be a sleep.

Sunday 10th October – Day Off in Selcuk

After a good lazy breakfast we are given the keys to our new rooms. Tony and Julie have the impressive honeymoon room, complete with jacuzzi whilst we have to make do with the Ottoman room. The rooms are good so we headed down the street to the Ephesus Museum to have a look at the striking artefacts that have been recovered from the ancient city.

The first gallery contains finds from the Terrace Houses of Ephesus – scales, jewelery, cosmetic boxes etc. You can also see the famous effigy of Priapus, the Phallic God. He is kept in the dark but just push a button to illuminate him in all his rampart glory. The other display areas which includes an outdoor courtyard hold collections of coins, grave goods, statuary and representations of Eros. There is also an enormous head and arm of the Emperor Domitian which once formed part of a 7 metre high statue.

After lunch we had a look at the Byzantine Aqueduct that runs intermittently through the centre of town. The top of the aqueduct is a nesting place for storks. We also had a quick look at the outside of the Basilica of St John. He is said to have come to Ephesus twice: once between AD 37 and AD 48 with the Virgin Mary, and again in AD 95 towards the end of his life, when he wrote his gospel on Ayasuluk Hill. A 4th century tomb was believed to house his remains, so in the 6th century the Emperor Justinian erected a magnificent church on top of his tomb.

After all this culture we returned to our guest house for a rest before the evening barbecue on the rooftop. The barbie was an outstanding success, lots of chicken and salad and we were allowed to BYO. Tony pulled out the guitar and we sang a few songs with the other guests. An American, Mike could also play guitar and he strummed out a couple of Beatles and Stones numbers.

Monday 11th October – Ephesus

Our tour today was to the ancient city of Ephesus. We went through the gates at around 10.00am with hordes of other people. Apparently there were a couple of cruise ships in. The site has been excavated and restored for about 100 years and as a result there is plenty to see. Just outside the main entrance is the tomb of Luke the Evangelist.

Inside the gates is the Odeon which was basically a Council Hall where political issues were discussed. There are so many aspects to Ephesus that it would take ages to write about. In summary we saw the temple of Hadrian, Fountain of Trajan, Gymnasium Baths, Library of Celsus and The Great Theatre.

One interesting aspect was the Roman men's toilets. Nice little slots cut into the marble and once the business was done it was taken away by running water. Apparently the wealthy Romans would bring along a slave to warm up the cold marble so that they could enjoy a comfortable sitting.

The 10,000 seat theatre has been host to great singers including Tom Jones, Frank Sinatra, Sting and Tony Aitchinson.

After a fantastic lunch it was off to a leather factory where they put on a fashion show in an attempt to lure some Turkish Lira from the hip pockets of gullible tourists. I sat out in the car park and when Alice returned with the news that she had purchased a beautiful red jacket I could not have been happier.

Our next stop was the home of the Virgin Mary. There is no definite proof that she spent her last days here but there are strong indicators that she did.

The Catholics and Muslim faiths however do recognize the site and as a result many pilgrims travel here. A baptismal pool was discovered in 1961 which is not far from the church which has been reconstructed on this site.

There were many people at the site and our guide had to restrain the many pensioners who caused a stampede when they saw the church. You would have thought they were going to expire before they could get inside.

Outside the church there is a fresh water spring that is supposed to have been blessed and once again there was a mad crush to get to this potent elixir. I managed to fill my water bottle and will see if it has an impact on my receding hair line.

There is also a wishing wall. You write a note on a piece of paper and stuff it into the wall amongst the thousands of other notes. It is like a miniature version of the Wailing Wall in Jerusalem.

Next stop was the Temple of Artemis which was recognized as one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. These days there is a big hole, a few building blocks and a column where this great temple once stood. You just have to use your imagination.

A riot nearly occurred as our mini van made the turn into a carpet factory. It was a unanimous decision and our driver who also did not wish to go in quickly turned around and took us back into town. He joined the majority of us in the consumption of a few beers in the local cafe/park.

After 100 TL of beers we adjoined to the terrace of his hotel for further relaxation. It was an impromptu event which we all enjoyed over more beer, wind and some take away Turkish Pide (pizza).

To make it a memorable evening we also had a small earthquake that registered about 3.5 on the Richter scale.

SCINTILLATING SANTORINI

Saturday 2nd October – Scintillating Santorini

A wonderful breakfast on our balcony this morning has prepared us for a day out. All I have to do is too remember to keep driving on the right hand side. After a couple of near misses and a little help from Alice, I started to get a feel for the driving. My major problem was that every time I indicated, I inadvertently turned on the windscreen wipes. Just hate the sound of rubber scraping across dry glass.

Our road map was a little dodgy and after a couple of wrong turns we ended up at the beach of Monolithos. The word mono would neatly describe this beach as it was impacted by the wind and tide.

Big piles of sea grass were lumped in mounds on the beach with plenty more in the water to take its place. I think I spotted one person on a deck chair.

We then headed down to Kamari beach, found a parking space and went for a walk along the boulevard. There was less wind and the sun worshipers were out in force. The black sand was a good contrast to the white, red and brown bodies that were stretched out on the 6 Euro sun beds.

We continued walking to the end of the point past the many excellent tavernas who were promoting full english breakfasts. There is a huge headland at the end with yet another church in prime real estate position.

Next up we tackled a series of S-bends that took us to the top of the Mesa Vouno and the site of Ancient Thira. Alice had white knuckles by the end of this drive.

At 366 metres the view is stupendous. The site dates back to the 7th century BC with subsequent influences by the Roman and Byzantine periods. After walking around in the heat of the day we were parched and hungry so we headed off to another beach area named Perissa.

After lunch we decided to take advantage of the free sun bed that was on offer on the section of beach in front of our restaurant. We took a photo to prove that it was indeed free. The water was choppy and did not look inviting so we did not hang around for long.

Our drive then took us to a different part of the caldera which overlooked Balos bay. Incredible views the entire way to the end of the line at Cape Akrotiri where there is a lighthouse.

On the way back there was a dirt road with a sign that indicated Black Beach. We took a chance and discovered a real pearl. The beach was small and covered with smooth black rocks. The water was crystal clear and warm because it was sheltered from the wind. Even though it was late afternoon I had a great swim.

We then headed down to Red Beach which also looked a great spot for a day out. There is a boat service from here to another beach which is coincidentally called White Beach and also Black Beach. After a glass of wine and a glorious sunset that we shared with a couple of other people we drove back to the Blue Dolphin.

Sunday 3rd October - Oia, Santorini

Today we have to leave our lap of luxury and change to another room. We don't have the same view but nevertheless the room is still great.

My driving has improved dramatically and it is with some confidence that we head to the opposite end of the caldera for a look at Oia. This is the area where most people come to view the sunset and can be quite crowded even in the off peak. Today is no exception because overnight three large cruise ships anchored in the bay below our hotel.

There are many fine cafes that offer fantastic views at fantastic prices. Will I get over paying 10 Euro for two small coffees?

There are also many boutiques and one of them even managed to tempt Alice. The road down to the coast brought us out at the picturesque harbour of Ammoudi. As we were driving along the coast road we noticed a guy on a motorbike carrying a huge crab pot in one hand and smoking a cigarette with the other. The only thing missing was his mobile phone

After a late lunch we took in a couple of winery tours. The first tour was well organised and included an underground tour which detailed the history of the winery since the 1600's.

The grapes here are not grown on a trellis. The vine is woven in a basket shape very close to the ground. The grapes grown in the middle and are sheltered from the sun and also it produces humidity which helps to sustain the fruit as there is very little rainfall. The grapes are also protected from the strong winter winds.

The last winery, Gavala, was really worth the visit. We pulled up at about 6.00pm and were not turned away even though we were the only ones there. The wines we tried included three whites, a red and a sweet desert wine.

The red was a bit light and was not far off being a Rose. The whites were excellent with plenty of tannin and could be cellared for up to ten years. The desert wine is 8 years old and aged in Russian oak from Odessa. It is produced in the old way by squashing them with the feet. They say it oxygenates the wine and as a result requires no fortification. It is a great drop.

Monday 4th October – Alice versus the Volcano

After thinking about it overnight we decided to keep the car for one more day. At 30 Euro it was a reasonable bargain because we could use it to transfer us to the airport.

Alice went off to check out the shops in Fira whist I ventured out for more sightseeing. My driving has really improved as I only managed to stall the car four times and turn the windscreen wipers on only twice.

This afternoon we have an appointment with the sailing ship “Thalassa” to watch the sunset and explore the still active volcano (50 Euro each). To reach the port we have three options which were walk down (free) about 400 steps, ride a donkey (5 Euro each) or take the cable car (4 Euro each). We chose the cable.

The volcano is called Tholos Naftilos and the last eruption was in 1950. A major earthquake followed in 1954 which destroyed most of the buildings on Santorini. We had to walk about one kilometre uphill to view the steam that permeates out through the crater. Thongs were not a very good choice for footwear on this walk.

Our next stop was for a swim in the hot springs that bubble into the sea close inshore. I am still an Inala boy at heart so I had to be the first one into the water. Without prompting I launched myself off the deck with a 9.5 score for my near perfectly executed bomb dive.

The hot springs were a bit of a let down. The water was lukewarm and if it had been in my bathtub it would have been sent down the plug hole. The water was also very muddy and Alice will have some trouble getting her white rash top clean.

The next part of the trip was spent relaxing on deck as they unfurled the sails for a sunset cruise. I feel like Jimmy Barnes at the moment as I'm consuming cheap wine and have a three day growth.

I filled up on a range of Greek appetizers and four plastic cups of wine. We really enjoyed the trip and you certainly get a different perspective of the caldera from down on the water.

Back in port we were ready to take the cable car back up but were informed that there had been a malfunction. I suspect the donkey handler may have thrown a spanner in the works. As we did not fancy walking up the steps we joined the queue for a donkey ride to the top of the caldera.

After a twenty minute wait we boarded our beasts of burden and headed for the top. Alice had the smallest one and it soon exacted some revenge by ensuring that she scraped her knee on the concrete wall. Mine on the other hand was intent on trying to throw me over the edge. I might be exaggerating just a little but it sure felt like it. Where's Shrek when you need him!

Our verdict is that Greece is a fantastic destination. From the moment we arrived to the day we left the Greek people were absolutely fabulous.

Athens for us was a real joy and part of the reason was the locality of our hotel and the ease of walking around or catching the metro. Every island was terrific but in a close call Alice and I would choose Naxos. For those much younger than us it would be Mykonos and Santorini.

THE KINGS OF MYKONOS

Thursday 23rd September – Kings of Mykonos

The sun is up yet again and it looks like the wind may have slightly abated. There are a lot of young people staying at the hotel so Alice and I enjoyed a leisurely breakfast by ourselves. We trudged down the hill to the beach for our morning swim.

On arrival we had to select our beach chair which the sign said would cost us 3 Euro each. Alice had the correct amount ready for when the collector of fees arrived. He duly came and asked for 9 Euro which Alice immediately challenged. The extra 3 Euro he said was for the use of the umbrella. Could not argue with his logic.

The swimming area was great and the water warm as it was sheltered to some extent from the wind. There was a small rock shelf about 20 metres out from the beach which supported quite a few varieties of marine life. A boat service that operates hourly connects a number of the local beaches and looks a good means for getting around.

Headed into Mykonos town at about 3.00pm so Alice could troll through the shops. To her chagrin most of them had closed for an afternoon siesta. Nevertheless we spent an enjoyable time wandering through the alleys and marveling at the many coloured doors, shop fronts and tavernas. Dinner was on Alice's good friend Danny which we had at a popular place named Nikos. We had a couple of drinks and ordered our food at intervals so we could pace ourselves and enjoy the food whilst people watching. Totally sated we managed to just catch the 8.00pm bus back to our lodgings where we crashed.

Friday 24th September – Magical Mykonos

Another day of relaxation has begun. There are a few more clouds in the sky today but the wind has dropped slightly in intensity. Decisions? Will it be a day of hanging around the pool , a day at the beach or a trip into Mykonos town. Oh bugger, just do all three!

After a day of not doing much we jumped on the 5.45pm express to town. The wind has dropped so we have taken up a prime perch at the Veranda Bar in Little Venice to watch and enjoy our last Mykonos sunset.

Alice's friend Danny has once again provided some funds for a sunset cocktail. In keeping with the theme of Mykonos Alice chose a “Princess Margaret” which was duly given a thumbs up. I chose a Mythos beer and at 7 Euro was undoubtedly the most expensive beer that I have ever bought. To put it into perspective it was akin to paying $15 for a stubby of Gold. I can't really complain as the sunset and our front row seat over the water is one of the best in town.

On our way to dinner I missed a golden opportunity to purchase a pirate copy of the smash Australian movie “The Kings of Mykonos”. Judging by the number of copies that he had business was definitely slow. While I'm on the subject of movies try and rent out the old classic from the late 70's “Shirley Valentine”. There are still areas of Mykonos where development has not encroached and this movie would give you an insight on how it was for the majority of the island.

Tonight we decided to watch our budget so we chose the equivalent of an Asian plastic chair establishment. Our small but charming eatery had plastic plates, Mama as the waitress and Papa out the back cooking up a storm. We started with a plate of olives awash in a sea of olive oil, grilled feta cheese, chicken and lamb Greek gyros which we washed down with a bottle of Greek white wine. Not content with this feast we finished off with a crepe filled with banana, nutella and icecream. All this for only 26 Euro helped compensate for the expensive beer.

Our bus trip back to the hotel reminded me that bus drivers all over the world would like to operate like this. After finishing our equivalent of a meat pie our driver departed on time but not before he lit up a cigarette for the journey. The buses are manual gearboxes, the roads narrow and windy but this is not challenging enough for our driver. As he manouvered his way around the tight corners with cigarette in hand his mobile phone rang. He duly answered it and continued talking, driving and smoking with great zeal and skill.

Saturday 25th September – Paros

Today we are off on the 10.00am ferry the Seajet 2. George the owner of the Paradise View has kindly driven us to the port.

He is also driving a Kiwi to the airport who after having a big night out until 4.00am has missed his 7.30am flight to Athens and London. He is in remarkably good spirits for someone who has to rebook everything.

George has been exceptionally helpful and also looks and has similar mannerisms to David Schwimmer from the sitcom Friends. We would definitely recommend this hotel and you can have a look at it on www.paradiseview.gr

If you believe Readers Digest and why wouldn't you then the island of Paros is rated as one of the top ten “sexiest” islands in the world. I don't know how they rate sexy because Fraser Island along with Koh Samui made the ten.

Paros however is a friendly island and the main port of Parrikia seems to welcome you with friendly arms. We on the other hand are into another island taxi and scooting across to the other major settlement, Naousa, on the north coast. It is a charming resort area with a colourful fishing harbour and many waterside tavernas.

We have chosen Katerina's Studios and our room or should I say rooms(2 bedrooms and separate bathroom and kitchen)with a large patio has stupendous views overlooking the Aegean Sea. When we arrived Katerina who is in her early 60's greeted us with open arms. I have never experienced such a warm welcome before. Alice was given a big hug and a kiss and It was like we were her children returning home after a long absence. www.katerinastudios.gr

After lunch it was off to the beach for a nice swim. Plenty of small sea urchins around the rocks which we will have to avoid.

A couple of hours later it was back to our room for the obligatory nanna nap. After all we are expending so much energy. Our evening was spent wandering around the waterfront and the maze of narrow whitewashed streets peppered with fish and flower motifs in the main section of Naousa. It is an interesting mix with fishermen on one hand repairing nets on their trawlers and on the other sales people in trendy boutiques trying to flog off their latest creations.

In its own way Naousa with its smart mix of boutiques and souvenir shops is a smaller more laid back version of Mykonos. A wood fired pizza and a selection of appetizers from one of the plethora of restaurants was our hearty fare tonight.

Sunday 26th September – Paradise Paros

Awoke to a cloudy sky but fortunately there was no wind. A pirate ship which could be the “Black Pearl”is anchored in the harbour. In reality it is a luxury sailing boat which is a modern term for fleecing the well heeled visitors to the Greek Islands. From the boat's loud speaker system we heard that the poor buggers could not go to Santorini because there is too much wind down there. A coffee on our patio will be enough for us.

“The Wild Geese” was a movie from the 70's that starred the very suave Roger Moore. On Paros this morning we had our own wild geese, a gaggle of about 14 white geese who patrolled our little beach. Later they waddled down the main road to the town square where they settled in a small salt water pond. In the afternoon they made their way back to the beach and into the front yard of the Manis Inn. They have a routine and pity the pour souls who mess with them.

I had a big day of swimming which surely must be improving my fitness. Alice and I are the only ones who seem to worry about sunburn or the need for an all over tan. We are the only ones who wear rash tops while other 50 plus females and males are getting around in just a thong. I have spotted a number of bream, an Aegean version of a flathead and a soul (flounder) whilst snorkeling around the rocks.

At the souvenir shops there are a range of interesting calendars. Two that struck our fancy were of Greek Island painted doors and cats. One lucky reader will be the recipient of “The Door” calendar!

Tonight we are staying in to take advantage of the gorgeous sunset and view with the added bonus of giving our Euro a rest. Alice has whipped up a mini gourmet feast of grilled haloumi cheese, greek salad, cheese and spinach pies which was washed down with an award winning local wine. The 2009 Paros Moraitis dry white picked up a silver medal at the 2010 international wine competition at Thessaloniki. A real bargain at 5.5 Euro from the mini market across the road.

Monday 27th September – Perfect Paros

I really don't get tired of writing that the weather is just getting better. This morning we have a gentle zephyr, calm seas and a beautiful blue sky to keep us in good stead for the day. What can I say we just did more of the same.

This evening we thought we would try out a Ouzerie (place that serves Ouzo and light snacks). We opted for a Lonely Planet recommendation called Moshonas which is located on the waterfront. Instead of ordering a shot of ouzo I convinced Alice to go for a half bottle. The ouzo went surprisingly well with the vegetable meatballs and grilled calamari with freshly squeezed lemon juice.

Tuesday 28th September – Onwards to Naxos

Alice was up bright and early and headed down to the beach so she could photograph the geese. Alas, they did not front but she put her time to good use by cleaning up discarded plastic rubbish that was littering the beach. She managed to fill up an entire bin.

I will have time for one last swim before heading off to catch the 11.55am Blue Star (Naxos) Ferry to Naxos. Our stay on Paros has been very relaxing with the bonus of incredible weather and we would definitely recommend this island to anyone who wants a relaxing holiday. The apartments next to ours “Isabella Studios” also look great and their low season rates of 50 Euro for a double represent good value.

Alice pulled a good swifty when we were saying goodbye to Katerina. She told her how much she enjoyed the Paros wine. Katerina then went straight to the mini mart and bought her a bottle of 2009 Paros Moraitis Meltemi.

It is a fine wine which combines a rich aroma, a fine taste and a full body from the ancient grape varieties Moschato, Alexandrias and Mandilaria. It resembles a very light Rose and our rating will follow. At the port we were herded into a small waiting area which was like being in a cattle sales yard. Once on board we were in the luxury of business class.

The ferry quay is at the northern end of the waterfront which is known as Paralia. It is lined with cafes, tavernas and shops on its inland side. Behind Paralia, narrow alleyways twist and turn behind archways as they climb into the Kastro. Naxos' most famous landmark is the unfinished Temple of Apollo known as the Portara.

We are staying at the Ilion Hotel which is about 10 metres from the beach of Agios Georgios. Our room at the Ilion is clean and functional with a big balcony which allows us to see the nearby beach. The shower however is so small that you could not swing a Greek cat in it. At 35 Euro a night including breakfast we have nothing to complain about.

We had a big afternoon of exploring Hora,the capital of Naxos. After wandering around the alleys for a few hours we came to the Venetian Castle which is situated high up on the Kastro. We sat and listened for a few minutes to a Russian concert violinist and pianist who were practicing for a performance they were giving at the castle tonight. It was beautiful music even to untrained ears such as mine.

The headland where the temple of Apollo is situated gives tremendous views. There were people swimming in the crystal clear water in areas that were protected from the wind. You could even see the island of Paros. We also could not resist the urge to indulge ourselves with a happy hour cocktail at the Captains bar.

Found another restaurant called Nikos that was doing a brisk trade. The special tonight was grilled swordfish fillet which also came with dips, salad desert and wine. At 18 Euro for two it was areal bargain. We had an enjoyable night as we struck up a conversation with a couple from Sweden and ended up being the last ones to leave. Back at the hotel we spent a frantic ten minutes swatting a multitude of mosquitoes.

Wednesday 29th September – Naxos Beach

The swatting must have done the trick as we were not bothered at all by our buzzing friends. Well it is now late afternoon and I am sitting on our balcony draped in a white towel and reflecting on the days events. My reflection is aided by the nibbling of a few green olives that are stuffed with almonds and the sipping of a 500ml, 5% Alpha beer that just happened to be in our bar fridge. This is a traditional Greek beer that has been brewed since 1961 and my verdict is that it tastes like cats p...... I have spent the day squatting on my 7 Euro banana lounge with umbrella whilst Alice spent the day shopping.

My day was infinitely much tougher than Alice's. I had to face the heat of the day by swimming on what is the best beach so far. The water is calm and shallow which makes it ideal for children and old buggers like us. You can swim for miles in clear water with very little current. Really, the only tough part was having to gaze at all the Tony Abbot lookalikes parading around in their budgie smugglers. Alice on the other hand looked very relaxed after her retail therapy. I should mention that the water is so warm that Alice actually went for two swims and is loving it!

Thursday 30th September – Moto Naxos

Woke up nice an early after a quiet night at Picasso's Mexican restaurant. We have decided to hire a quad bike from Mike's hire to do some exploring around Naxos. The one we chose has extra grunt for tackling the mountainous terrain. Not a bad deal, only 21 Euro plus fuel for the whole day.

Heading south west the first beach we came to was Agios Prokopis and then Agia Anna. Both beaches are well organised with beach chairs and showers. They have nice sand and the water is crystal clear without being too deep.

Following on you come to a dirt road that separates the plain from what is known as Plaka beach. It is about 4 km long and there are a number of hotels and tavernas but hardly a soul on the beach except for those naked Europeans. No problem finding a space to park the bike here!

We then headed inland and started climbing to the village of Tripodes. Following a large tractor ensured that we moved slowly enough to enjoy the scenery and the many farms that were laid out like patch work in the valley. Alice in particular was smitten with the donkeys and the sheep that she saw in the fields. It really felt like we were traveling through rural Greece.

Once we hit the asphalt we motored down the road to Kastraki which is another beach area. Keeping the beach on our right we followed the dirt road until we reached Ag Giannis Bay. At this point we became good Samaritans as we helped an Albanian couple who had bogged their hire car after driving onto the beach.

After getting them out our troubles began. No matter how I tried I could not get the quad bike to start. Eventually we pushed it into a nearby taverna where we took a refreshing break and contemplated ringing Mike back in Naxos town. The break must have worked as we worked out that the brake must be on for the quad to start.

There was a nice beach across the road so we took a refreshing swim. The water was beautiful and as there was nobody around a costumes did not get wet. On the road again and the beaches of Pyrgaki and Agiassos soon passed us by.

Next we drove up the mountainous middle of the island. What a drive, ascending and descending in an exhilarating series of S-bends through spectacular mountain scenery. There was an abundance of Olive trees growing by the side of the road.

After driving through a number of small villages with white washed houses we reached the small town of Moni. It is situated on a green ridge at an altitude of 500 metres in the centre of mountainous Naxos. The natural environment is full of olives, vineyards, vegetable gardens and fruit trees. The added bonus is that the air is cool with sensational views to Naxos town and the nearby island of Paros.

After deciphering our road map we chose the fork in the road that led back through Kinidaros, Miloi and Melanes to Naxos town. We passed two large white marble quarries, an ancient Roman aqueduct and many old churches from different eras and faiths. We finished off our travels with a light snack and a swim at Ag Prokopios.

All in all we had a great day out exploring the country side. Alice's only complaint that she is a little sore in the thighs after being on the quad (like riding a horse) for so long and was starting to develop a helmet headache. In hindsight we should have taken more breaks.

Friday 1st October – Santorini

Another beautiful day in the Cyclades but I will not be able to take advantage of the weather to take a swim after breakfast as we have to catch the 11.00 Hellenic Seaways Highspeed 5 catamaran to Santorini. At breakfast we discovered that we are the only remaining guests of the Ilion hotel.

Our host Sophie made us a fresh omelet and informed us that when we left the hotel will close for the season. It made feel like one of the guests from the old Humphrey Bogart movie “Key Largo”. First time for us that a hotel has closed after we have left. Sophie also drove us down to the port in her Mercedes to save us spending money on a taxi. I think she is also keen to start her holiday in Athens.

Santorini is often described as fantastic and fabulous and at first glimpse it deserves all these superlatives. The surreal landscape is the relic of what was probably the biggest eruption in recorded history. We have chosen to spend our last days in Greece at the Blue Dolphin apartments which is located on the caldera at Firostefani.

The drive up from the port was through a never ending series of S-bends. It would have been a killer walk as our car even seemed to struggle at stages. I'm glad we chose these apartments as I only had to carry our luggage up and down about 60 steep steps. Some of the other locations are a lot more. Our room has been upgraded for two days to a studio apartment and I must say we are living it up. The view is so spectacular from our balcony that it is hard to describe. No doubt that we will bore everyone with our photographs.

We spent the afternoon walking the narrow pathway that runs along the top of the caldera. The donkeys were not doing as brisk a trade as the cable car in transporting tourists between the top and the bottom of the caldera. We sat out on our balcony at dusk,sipping wine and taking in the view. The caldera edge was like a frozen cascade of lights which eclipses even the great Mt. Coot-tha.

WHAT IS IT WITH ALICE AND SNAKES?

What is it with Alice and snakes?

Once again our travels have had a”Minties” moment with the sighting of a little slippery viper In Corinth near one of the first churches constructed in Christendom. After relaxing at Hotel Tony with a couple of Sav Blancs we headed off into the night in search of a cheap meal.

We found a place which was more of a hole in the wall in the Plaka district where restaurants abound in numbers. They won us over with a 9.9 Euro meal deal which consisted of bread, Greek salad, main meal and a glass of wine. The food was great and in such quantity that I could have gotten by on just the salad. It must have been a good restaurant and battered fish it's specialty as a number of customers came just for the fish as it received a good review in “the book”.

Alice's verdict was that it was a light and crispy batter, well cooked but a little to bony for her taste. We thought the Italian at the next table may not had eaten for a week judging on the way he devoured his and his mother's fish.

Saturday 18th September – Delphi

Up early once again for a full day trip (99 Euro) to Delphi and the Sanctuary of Apollo.

The drive up into Central Greece took us along another great highway with magnificent vistas. As we traveled through Livadia there were huge fields of cotton and the occasional goat herder with a shepherds crook tending his flock.

On the slopes of Mt Parnassos we passes through the village of Arahova. I marveled at how our driver manouvered our large coach through the narrow streets. The village with great views over the valley acts as an alpine retreat during the ski season. Not much chance of skiing today as the temperature is again in the 30's.

Ancient Delphi is built on the slopes of mt Parnassos, overlooking the Gulf of Corinth and extends into a valley of Cypress and Olive trees. It is a stunning setting with inspiring ruins. Walking up the Sacred Way you pass a number of treasuries before arriving at the foundations of the Doric Temple of Apollo. Above the temple is a well preserved 4th century BC theatre which was restored by the Pergamenon kings in the 1st century BC.

Ticket prices would have been extensive as the view from the top row is unbeatable. The path continues upwards to the stadium which is supposed to be the best preserved in Greece. They say the stadium could seat about 7000 spectators.

The Delphi Museum is definitely worth a visit. The exhibits include the frieze from Siphnian treasury, Sphinx of the Naxians and the tall Acanthus Column of Dancers with three women dancing around its top. The last exhibit is the celebrated life size Bronze Charioteer which commemorates a victory in the Pythian Games of 478 BC.

Back in Athens we settle up our account with Tony himself. He is a great host and takes pride in looking after his guests. At 60 Euro a night this place is bargain. Only a ten minute walk to the Acropolis and a swag of good restaurants. A couple of more nights would not have gone astray. One thing I really enjoyed was the sweet Tomatoes. I can imagine an aged Greek farmer named Stavros watching over his garden to make sure the birds do not get at this delicious fruit.

Sunday 19th September – Andros

Up at 5.00am well before the sun rises to catch a taxi to the port of Rafina where we will board a Blue Star ferry to the Cyclades island of Andros.

Given my past experience with taxi drivers I was fearful that the taxi fare would blow out to 100 Euro. I was pleasantly surprised by the 45 Euro fare. Safely stowed away in A class, the super ferry promptly departed the quay on time at 8.05am and sailed off into the Aegean Sea.

Just after 10.00 we docked at the port of Gavrio and disembarked with a few other passengers.

In no time flat we were off in yet another taxi (must be the most I have ever spent on taxis in one day) for the small town of Batsi. I thought the driver must have been related to Mark Webber as he wasted no time in getting us to our destination of Villa Alexandros.

For 35 Euro per night we have a top floor apartment (3 floors) with the most incredible views. We have access to a small sandy beach with crystal clear water. The township is located on the inner curve of a handsome bay. A sandy beach on the north side merges eventually with a harbour-side promenade backed by a colorful swath of cafes, tavernas and shops. While we were waiting for our room to be made up we ventured into town for some happy hour supplies and a feed at the Koala Taverna.

The apartment owner informed us that this was the warmest September in the last 10 years. Oh the luck of the Gould's, well I guess we may as well head down to our beach which we are sharing with about 10 other pilgrims.

While I was swimming, did I mention the water was warm, I saw an octopus and a fish with wings. It is now happy hour and Alice has the cheese, crackers ice cold Amstel beer and wine ready. The Greek naval ship which is anchored off the headland is also having a happy hour as they are pumping out plenty of music to serenade us.

We are becoming a little like the Greeks because we are not venturing out for dinner until after 8.00pm. Maybe it's because the sun does not go down until then.

Anyway it is a beautiful night with the moon beams reflecting off the water. We chose a restaurant called the “Dolphin” because it had great views of the harbour or was it the free carafe of wine on offer.

I had a sense of deja vu whilst waiting for dinner as there were a couple of gentleman breakfasters lookalikes seated nearby. They definitely had all the characteristics of Needles and Peter Kunde.

Dinner tonight was spaghetti with king prawns, stuffed calamari and a bowl of olives washed down with cold beer and wine. Delicious! When we left the Needles lookalike presented us with a caricature of us that he had whipped up.

Monday 20th September – Another Day In Paradise

How pleasant it is to wake up and see Dolphins at play from your apartment window.

We have about 240 degree views from the balcony and window of our little studio apartment.

After a leisurely breakfast Alice wanted to explore some of the town. I was content to just sit and read but I obeyed and followed faithfully downtown. Nothing to report except that it is hard doing nothing. Lunch, followed by a nanna nap and a relaxing swim is the order for the remainder of the day. Oh! Can't forget happy hour.

The wind has picked up this afternoon which has really cooled things down. We are sitting out on our patio at 6.30 in the evening when we here a car with a loud speaker spruking something in Greek. It reminds me of a scene from the great Blues Brothers movie when Dan Akroyd is trying to drum up business for their show - “Tonight only, the fabulous Blues Brothers rhythm and blues band from Chicago, Illinois.......” but when the ute comes around the corner it turns out that he is selling fresh potatoes.

On our way to dinner we came across a grey nomad convention.

In the local car park there were at least twenty camper vans set up for the night. It reminded me of one of Tony Guarino's caravan club rallys.

Dinner tonight will be at the Stamatis Taverna which is recommended by the Lonely Planet. It turned out to be a great choice as it was the best meal so far on our travels. I had “exohiko” which was baked lamb with sauteed onions, green capsicum and cheese all wrapped in filo pastry accompanied with rice, baked potato and a carafe of local red wine. Alice had a more conventional meal of lamb chops.

Tuesday 21st September – The Cyclades Wind

The wind has not abated overnight and the sea is laced with whitecaps. Our little beach is in the direct path of the wind so a day of lounging on the sand is out of the question. It is still okay for swimming but a little choppy. It will be a good excuse to surf the net and arrange some accommodation for Mykonos.

Wednesday 22nd September – Mykonos

We decided to stay in last night and save a few Euro by eating the remainder of our supplies. Up with the sparrows this morning as we have to catch the Super Ferry to our next port of call. A cruise ship has docked in the bay which meant that the local taxis will be busy and that we will have to transfer to the main port of Garvio a little earlier.

After settling up our account of 105 Euro we bid farewell to our host Lorainne who has been most helpful during our stay. We had a great room with everything that we required to make us comfortable. I would give this a rating of 9.5 and would have no hesitation in returning.

Down in Garvio we watched a couple of ferries arriving with the next boat load of tourists and locals ready to sample the pleasures of Andros. The precision in which the load and unload vehicles and passengers is tremendous. Everything is completed in 15 minutes.

On our arrival in Mykonos we could not spot our hotel pickup so we caught yet another taxi to our destination. We are staying at the Paradise View which is approximately 300 metres from the famous Paradise Beach party scene.

Our room which is costing 190 Euro for 3 nights overlooks the pool with views down the valley to the beach. The room is very modern and near new. The owner George who just missed us at the port is a wealth of information and takes pride in his establishment. Once again the hospitality of the Greeks has been second to none.

After settling in we took a stroll down the hill for some supplies from the mini mart and a gander of the beach.

Plenty happening at this spot as young and old beach goers take advantage of the sun without the wind blowing them away. Beach chairs under an umbrella go for 3 Euro which is probably worth it as it guarantees your spot at Paradise. The bar area is huge with a couple of resorts such as the Paradiso and the Tropicana vying for the tourist dollar.

Tonight we head for Mykonos town on the local bus that operates on a half hour frequency and costs 1.40 Euro for a 15 minute journey. Cheaper than a one zone Brisbane fare.

The landscape around the area is quite barren and rocky. One thing I did admire was the workmanship that goes into constructing the dry stone fences.

Headed off for a look at the famous windmills which stand on the headland overlooking little Venice. The sun was obscured by clouds so we could not enjoy the sunset. We will try again tomorrow.

Due to the wind the bay around little Venice was close to being surf. The waves were smashing up against the buildings which are perched right on the waters edge.

Alice decided that we needed to look at some of the shopping that is available so we were soon traveling through a maze of alleys that are littered with all the big name fashion brands, restaurants and the odd church.

After a couple of hours wandering through this labyrinth we needed some sustenance and settled for a restaurant offering a seafood meal deal for two at 28 Euro.

At 9.00 pm the restaurant was still filling up and the alleyways crowded with people. If this is low season then I would absolutely hate high season. All the people may be due to a large cruise boat being in port for the night.

GREEK ODYSSEY

Monday 13th September – Brisbane to Dubai

Over 2,500 years ago Homer wrote the epic poem The Odyssey, describing Ulysses' 10 year journey from Troy to Ithaca (not the creek). It's a tale of seemingly insurmountable odds, grit, determination and ultimate triumph. So join Alice and me as we undertake our own Odyssey of Greece and Turkey and marvel at how we negotiate our way through bustling airport and ferry terminals, bazaars and shopping malls.

At last the time has arrived for us to board our Emirates flight for Dubai. There are no strains of John Denver crooning “Leaving on a jet plane” but we can look forward to 14 hours of sleep deprivation, endless movies, mountains of food and the threat of DVT are the joys of international travel on a beer budget. I wish I could say we were upgraded to Business class but alas it is still cattle class for Alice and me.

Tuesday 14th September – Dubai to Athens

After a long night of screaming children which I am sure they would have heard in business class we were glad to have reached Dubai so we could at last stretch our legs other than in the toilet. We made our way to the Marhaba Lounge courtesy of the Citibank Platinum card where we can recline for five hours prior to our last leg to Athens. There is a nice view of the runway and lots of food and coffee at our disposal. This is right up my alley, quiet location and free food.

After a five hour stop over we are back in the air for our short five hour flight to Athens. It took next to no time to clear immigration and customs and to find our way to the Metro platform. Only problem was that the Greek train drivers were having a four hour stop work meeting. Back across the road and down the stairs to the arrival area carrying 50 kilos of luggage to join the queue for the 95X bus to Syntagma Square. For the bus nuts we traveled in an articulated bus with four doors which meant less seats and us standing for the entire journey. I didn't mind it as a oncer but I would hate to do it every day.

A quick taxi ride from the square and we were soon showering in our little apartment compliments of Hotel Tony and 60 Euro. It seems like a quiet area which is what we need as we are in desperate need of some sleep. Our first priority however was to walk to the supermarket and buy some beer,(Mythyos and Fix 500ml) champagne and I nearly forgot food. An early night for the weary travelers.

Wednesday 15th September – Walkabout Day

After dining on toast with vegemite and weetbix we are fortified to strike out in search of Grecian wonders. It is an absolutely sensational day blue skies, gentle breezes and a moderate temperature. The ancient site of the Acropolis is our destination. Crowned by the Parthenon, it stands sentinel over Athens and is visible from almost everywhere within the City.

We started off on the southeastern slope at the Theatre of Dionysos. Although it is in a poor state you can still get an idea of the immense size of the structure. I can imagine that Dionysos had many followers as he was the god of wine and ecstasy. On our way up we came across a large tortoise scampering across the rocks. At a guess we have assumed it must be an Acropolis tortoise and not a Galapagos tortoise. From this position you get an impressive view of the Odeon Of Herodes Atticus. He was a wealthy Roman who built the theatre in memory of his wife Regilla. There are still performances held here during the Hellenic festival.

As you reach the top you walk by the Beule Gate which was named after a French archaeologist who uncovered it in 1852. The other major temples are the Propylaia, Temple of Athena Nike (no Tiger Woods advertisements here), statue of Athena Proachos, The Erechtheion and of course the Parthenon. It is difficult to describe this site but it is awe inspiring and deserving of its status as one of the wonders o the ancient world.

On our way down we walked over the site of Ancient Agora. The main areas here are the Agora museum which is sited in the reconstructed Stoa of Attaloas,Temple of Hephaestus and the charming church of the Holy Apostles. The church was built in the 10th century to commemorate St Paul who used to teach in the Agora.

By this time we were stuffed so we settled into a nice restaurant for some grilled Haloumi, Greek salad , wine and beers. Twenty Five Euro lighter but feeling refreshed we headed off for the Acropolis museum. This is a great museum and worth the 5 Euro entry fee. The museum brings together all the surviving treasures of the Acropolis, excluding those that have taken up residence in the British museum. The top floor Parthenon gallery has been designed to showcase the temple's frieze, sculptures and metopes. There are also sculptures of Kore and the pedimental sculptures of Heracles slaying the Lernnaian Hydra and of a lioness devouring a bull.

Finished off the day by purchasing 199 Euro of ferry tickets, cold shower and of course a beer and champagne.

Thursday 16th September – Lonely Planet Walking Tour

We were off bright and early this morning by taking a quick trip on the Metro to Syntagma Square where we began our walking tour. At the Parliament building we were entertained by the ramrod straight presidential guards. They stand sentinel under the striking tomb of the Unknown Solider. We managed to time our visit with the changing of the guards. Next we ducked into the National Gardens which was a welcome break from the noise of the traffic. Ever onwards we tramped and sites such as the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Hadrians Arch were marked off our list of sites to visit.

There are so many minor sites in Athens that are worth a visit from small Greek Orthodox Churches, museums and flea markets.

The highlight for us was walking through the Anafiotika quarter. It is a picturesque maze of little whitewashed houses which are the legacy of the stonemasons from the small island of Anafi who were brought in to build the Kings palace after independence. It is a peaceful spot, with brightly painted olive-oil cans brimming with flowers that bedeck the walls.

Not far from here we took a break and feasted on some spinach pie which I washed down with Greek coffee. The coffee comes in an ornate brass beaker which is then decanted into a small expresso cup. I managed to get a fair proportion of coffee all over the table before I mastered the art of pouring. The taste is fine but it has a consistency which is reminiscent of mud.

After our break we headed off to the Roman Agora, Turkish baths and Hadrians Library. Hadrian was a bit of a benefactor for Athens as he was responsible for building many of Athens public works. We did manage to see the Athens Cathedral and the mansion of the Archbishop of Greece which has elaborate gold doors, CTV cameras and a security guard. A couple of wrong turns later and I had lost all hope of completing the tour. We missed out on a couple of minor churches but had a fabulous day off the beaten track.

We are resting up for the afternoon before making an assault on a souvlaki and a night time view of the Acropolis. The restaurant was aptly named God's restaurant as the food was divine. We had a nice little table next to three older Greeks with whom we struck up a conversation. The older guy (over 80) was called the General because of all the orders he places at the restaurant. A whole multitude of locals interspersed with tourists kept us entertained as they traipsed up and down the mall.

Friday 17th September – Ancient Corinth

Up nice and early for our 5 hour tour to Ancient Corinth. I really wanted to do this tour for one reason and that was to see the Corinth Canal. Call me corny but it is an amazing engineering feat that links the Ionian Sea with the Aegean Sea through the Isthmus of Corinth. We were lucky enough to see a boat sailing down this 6 km canal.

Shortly after we arrived at the ruins of the port of Kechreal where St Paul disembarked for Ephesus. He was basically run out of town by the Romans after living and preaching in Corinth for two years. Back in ancient times Corinth was amongst the richest cities and this is quite evident by the remains, including the huge agora (market place) and the temple dedicated to Apollo.

The drive back was equally as good as the new six lane highway hugs the coast line giving great views of nearby Greek Islands. The old road also hugs the coast line and it reminded me of The Great Ocean road in Victoria. We were glad to be in the air conditioned bus as the outside temperature at midday was a scorching 33 degrees.