Another day and another change in the weather as today we have a slight drizzle. You just can't pick it. At this stage we will just hang around the hotel and do a few running repairs such as a well needed shave and a manicure. With a little bit of luck the weather will clear which will allow us to get out and explore a little more of this charming place.
In the end we caught our local mini bus into town with the aim of going to the fish market for a meal. There are two aspects to eating here and that is too choose a fish and a restaurant.
There are a number of restaurants who all charge the same price of 5TL for cooking your delicacy so in the end it is all up to the head waiter who will try just about anything to entice you in. Our guy got us by reducing the price of our beer and wine.
Next step was to purchase our seafood from one of the many fish mongers that yell out their daily specials. As I don't like bones I picked a fillet of fish that was very similar to Mackerel and a small Calamari that set me back 10 TL. Alice went for a half kilo of prawns for 13 TL, Tony had Mackerel for 7 TL and Julie a whole sea bream for 10 TL.
Back at the restaurant we handed over our purchases where they were cooked to perfection. The prawns were done in a light chili and garlic sauce and the fish barbecued with garlic butter and came with salad, toasted Turkish bread and Parmesan cheese.
After lunch Tony and I decided we needed a trim to make ourselves beautiful for our main squeezes. We found a “Berber” who also offered massages as well as the usual cut and shampoo. Tony's Berber was quite short and had to stand on his tiptoes to reach his massive scone. The end result was that I came out looking like Daniel Craig and Tony like Woody Harleson. Watch out Alice and Julie!
Tuesday 19th October – Blue Cruise
Lots of rain overnight and a morning thunder storm had us wondering what would be in store for us when we set sail (motor) on our Gulet. Over breakfast the rain stopped and some patches of blue appeared which has given us some hope of a reasonable day. It is like Brisbane in reverse, after the thunder the skies clear and everything is fresh.Our departure from Fethiye Harbour was delayed as there was a problem with the Hassle Free travel agency with whom we had booked our accommodation and cruise.
Apparently they had not forwarded any of the money that we had paid and were stuffing V-Go around. I spoke to the agent and reminded him that we would be back in Istanbul and that I would involve the police if he did not honour our booking. Eventually, it was sorted out through a third party and I suspect that it was a matter of face. I will be having a word when we return to Istanbul.
We motored out at about 12.30pm in reasonable conditions but it soon deteriorated. The swell was up and there were a number of green faces. Just as we pulled up for a late lunch the rain bucketed down so we all retreated to the main cabin. Half the guests retreated to their cabins but Alice and I remained on deck as we motored over for a look at Butterfly Valley and the Blue Lagoon. Both places are beautiful but today the sea conditions do not permit a landing.
In the late afternoon we anchored off St Nicholas (Of Santa Claus Fame) Island. A couple of the more hardy boys dived in for a swim but the rest of us opted for a hot coffee. We were just about ready to visit the Byzantine ruins on the island when a big thunder storm came over. Alice quickly disappeared into the cabin. It blew over quickly but it was getting dark so we left the ruins to the local goats and cats that inhabit the island.
Wednesday 20th October – Rough Seas
What a night we had! Howling wind, roaring thunder, the sky lit up with sheet and forked lightning and torrential rain. Lucky for us we are all secure tucked in behind the island and safely ensconced in our cosy little cabin. Our cabin contains a comfortable double bed, small wardrobe, about one metre of floor space and a ensuite for those more private moments.
At 7.15am the skipper weighed anchor and we made a break for our next destination. As soon as we left the island' shelter the wind and sea hit us front on. Our gulet was bobbing up and down like a cork. The decision was made very quickly to turn back to St Nicholas island. The only good omen was that it had stopped raining and we could see some blue sky on the horizon.
After a good breakfast some of the younger ones went in for a swim but we remained on deck and enjoyed our surroundings. By 11.00am there was a bit more sun out and the wind had dropped a little. It was I thought, time to get wet. As soon as I hit the water I did not regret my decision. The water was surprisingly warm so I struck out for the distant bank of the island. On arrival I was greeted by a couple of mewing white cats who looked like they were glad of the company. There was a sign which confirmed that St Nicholas had spent time here and that the island was once an important port of call.
After lunch we motored off again and this time the conditions although not perfect were suitable for us to continue. Tony and I had popped a seasick tablet which allowed us to enjoy our ocean voyage. Alice however was looking decidedly green and eagerly chewed on a tablet to relieve her nausea. Julie just soldiered on showing no effect from the constant sideway and up and down movements.
We traveled slowly just off the coastline and for the next six hours enjoyed our vista of the rugged Turkish coast. The time was interrupted by short bursts of fishing from the hand lines that we trolled behind the boat and plenty of conversation. We had a beautiful sunset as the bright red orb of the sun dropped below a distant island. This was replaced by a bright full silvery moon and the evening star which reflected light off the much calmer water.At around 7.30pm we dropped anchor in a beautiful little bay off the town of Kas. A beautiful little island provided plenty of shelter from the elements. After a great dinner and a couple of beers on deck I adjourned to my cabin as I am sounding a little like Kermit the Frog.
Thursday 21st October – Blue Skies At Last
My voice has deteriorated overnight but I feel okay. The one bright thing is that the sun is shining and it looks as if we will have good weather today. After breakfast the crew will take us over to the town of Kas where we can pick up Cash and replenish the dwindling supplies. I will see what I can find for a sore throat.
After a breakfast in the marina surrounded by well heeled yachties we had a relaxing two hours walking around Kas. We barely scratched the surface but Kas wove its spell and left us wanting to see more of this charming little town.
The town itself does not sport the finest beaches but the atmosphere of the place is wonderfully mellow. The surrounding areas offer everything from first class scuba diving, shopping for the girls,and paragliding from the peak of the 500 metre mountain that surrounds the town. There is also a plethora of restaurants that make choosing where to eat a difficult but fun chore.
When we were leaving the harbour I spotted my first and only turtle and some flying fish that were skipping over the water. A swim followed shortly after and the water was so good that even Julie and Alice decided to get wet. After lunch the captain decided to show us that he was a real sailor and hoisted the jib. It was great not to hear the steady thump, thump, thump of the diesel.
We motored along the shore of Kekova Island where Byzantine ruins,partly submerged 6m below the sea and called the sunken city. This was the result of a series of earthquakes that occurred in the 2nd century AD.
Across from the sunken city is the little outpost of Kalekoy which is home to the ancient ruins of Simena (Lycian). There is an old Crusader fortress perched above the hamlet below that gives great views of the surrounding area. Julie, Alice and I made the trek to the top where we watched the sunset over the islands and Mediterranean sea. Tony meanwhile was sleeping off the four cans of Efes that he had for lunch. A little later we were anchored in a secluded bay sheltered from all the elements.
Dinner on deck under the stars was a great way for me at least to finish the day. Alice and I are having an early mark as I can hardly talk which I suppose is a blessing for some. Tony and Julie with a few others caught a speedboat to Smugglers Cove for a few island drinks and some dancing. Judging by the noise they made on their return, I reckon that they had a good time. Tony later told me that it looked like the set of Gilligan's Island and that the Germans who were on the dance floor appeared like extras on the set.
Friday 22nd October – An Offer Too Good To Refuse
A swim before breakfast really woke us up as the surface water was quite cold. Luckily it was warmer just below. The captain has made us all an offer to stay an extra night on the gulet with all meals included for the never to be repeated price of 50 TL per person. Naturally we accepted this bargain along with five others. Martin and Jane a mature English couple could not stay as they had other accommodation booked.
Later in the morning we stopped at the pirates cave for a swim. The water was crystal clear which made it easier whilst swimming inside the large cavern. There was a large rock in the middle to sit on and at one end was a small beach that led to what may have been pirates treasure. Most likely it led to a colony of bats whose shrieking gave the place an eerie feeling.After lunch we said our farewells to Martin and Jane and motored off to another island. The gulet anchored for the night in a secluded cove with two other boats. A couple of us grabbed some gear and snorkeled close to the shoreline. The marine life was fair and we saw a cuttlefish, trumpet fish and a big school of bait fish. The crew were busy with a spear gun and caught a bucketful of fish for tonight's barbecue dinner. A few beers underneath a starry sky ended another great day.
Saturday 23rd October – Kas Again
So many decisions too make when you wake up on a Gulet. Will I have a swim before breakfast or not? A hot coffee won out as I could remember the coolness of yesterdays early swim. Tony and I are becoming real Nancy boys. Over breakfast a couple of the local goats serenaded us as they walked along the rugged shoreline. We eventually braved the water and were pleasantly surprised by the warmth. Julie floated around on a noodle whilst Alice did a slow breaststroke up the channel.
A quick motor and we arrive at another cove with a bank lined by pine trees. There is supposed to be a hot spring here so I was looking forward to a swim after finishing the last few pages of my book.
At 1.00pm we are supposed to catch a bus from the town of Demre to our next destination. The captain's mobile goes off, good reception the whole cruise, and after the call he informs us that we are now going to Kas. As the anchor is coming up he explains that his boss needs the boat there because he had buggered up the bookings of a new group. We did not mind going backwards as it gave us a couple of more hours at sea.
Well what a great trip we had, good people, good crew and in the end great weather. If you are ever in Turkey make sure you take a blue cruise. The 3N/4D option is probably the best as I think a bigger cabin would be necessary for a longer cruise.
After we settled up our rather hefty bar tab which was due to all the wine consumed by Alice and Julie and not the beer that Tony and I drank, we jumped on a bus at 2.45pm bound for Olympos. The bus trip was about 2.5 hours and followed the coastline for the majority of the journey. We left the bus at the turnoff for Olympos, another 10km away,and farewelled our fellow cruise members (Jordan, Adam, RC, Catherine and Rebecca).
Our bus departed at 6.00pm and drove down a beautiful valley surrounded by pine trees growing off the rugged slopes of the mountains. We are staying at Bayrams Treehouse Pension for 35TL per person a night and that includes breakfast and dinner.
The bungalows are all close to each other and built among an orange orchard. The rooms are basic, clean and the water hot. Out in the courtyard for dinner which was incredibly good we relaxed on a little platform with cushions scattered all around. A very mellow place to chill.
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