Just a leisurely stroll

Wednesday 10th November – Dogmandu

Two of the things that do not change in Kathmandu is the continuous hawking of the local residents, careful where you step and the electricity load shedding.

Since our last visit it would appear that little money has been spent on upgrading infrastructure. The potholes in the roads are getting larger and the traffic thicker. Anyway I made some purchases and headed down the road to the Everest Steakhouse. A medium fillet steak served with chips, vegetables and a light pepper sauce which I washed down with an Everest beer was just what the doctor ordered. Really good value at just under $10. After the meal I navigated my way safely through darkened streets back to the hotel.

I needed a shower to get the dust and accumulated grime off me and was pleasantly surprised when the water came out nice and hot. The hotel has a generator so I had some light to read a little before dropping off to sleep. There was plenty of noise outside with someone letting off fire crackers, motorbikes and the ubiquitous barking dogs. Maybe the local authorities will consider changing the name to “Dogmandu”.

Thursday 11th November – A Quiet Day!

I woke at around six, feel reasonably refreshed and ready for breakfast. The hotel has a great garden area where you can dine and relax away from the outside madness.

After breakfast I went out hunting for the rest of my trekking supplies. I did not get lost this morning and soon found the trekking store that Jemma and I used in 2008. My plan was to jog his memory and hope that he would take pity on me and discount the prices. I was lucky as at that point in time I was the only customer and I do believe that he remembered Jemma and I as I was able to pinpoint the time that his uncle died.
In the end I spent $75 on a torch, sunglasses, windproof North Face (Fake) jacket, waterproof garters and another bag. Overall it was pretty good value. My next purchases were at the supermarket whee I bought a chocolate bar, toilet paper, tissues and some detol hand wash. After all this activity I needed a break so I settled in for a Yak cheese sandwich and a pot of black tea at one of my favourite spots the Pumpernickle Cafe. The food was good as usual but the outdoor area has really deteriorated.

When I arrived back at the hotel I jumped onto the lifesaver “Skype” and made contact with my Darlin'. It is always a pleasure when you can speak with someone that you love. It was also time to settle my trekking account which was just over 20000 rupees. I tried ringing Jemma and my sister Annie but all I got was the infernal message bank.

Well I needed some more cash to settle my hotel account and to fund my accommodation and food whilst trekking. After walking around for ages I managed to snare 10000 rupees which will at least settle my bill at the hotel and pay for dinner. There was a problem with a couple of the ATM's.

I was supposed to meet my guide at 6.00pm but he had shown up early and I had missed him by 10 minutes. The only saving grace was that my permits and bus tickets were available. It may have been serendipity as I gave Jem a call and this time she answered her mobile. We had a good chat before her battery ran out. After a short rest I decided to go out for dinner. As I past the Everest Steakhouse I dropped in and made a booking for another serving of iron laden red meat. My main goal however was to top up my cash for the trek. I finally found an ATM that was working but typical of banks they slugged me about $6 for the privilege of using their machine.

Back at the Everest I ordered the pepper steak once again and was not disappointed. I washed it down with a bottle of Everest and two red wines. The bill tonight was a measly $17. Back to the hotel I went to settle up my account and prepare for an early morning start. The bill for 2 nights accommodation, 2 large beers, 1 breakfast and laundry came to a staggering $55. You can bet “That I'll be back”.

Friday 12th November – On The Road Again

My 5.45am wake up call has jolted me out of a good night's sleep. My bags are packed and I am ready to leave at 6.45am on the tourist (no stops) bus to Besishahar (760 metres). My guide Netre has organised a taxi that gets us to the bus terminal with time to spare.
Our bus is nothing special and the leg room is non existent. After about one hour we finally escaped the clutches of Kathmandu's urban sprawl. The two young guys who do everything on our mini bus were touting for extra passengers as we drove out of town. So much for being a non stop service. As usual when I catch a bus in Nepal something goes astray. This time it was only minor as the bus blew out a rear tyre. A good excuse to get out and stretch my legs.

After four and a half hours we stopped just short of Mugling for lunch. At around 1.30pm we arrived at Dumre where the guys proceeded to fill the bus. When we left it was pretty squeezy.

About 25km from Besishahar we came to a sudden halt as the bus that was five minutes ahead of us had a head on collision with another bus. Luckily nobody was seriously hurt but traffic was at a standstill. After 90 minutes the police moved the vehicles which could have been done 80 minutes earlier. This delay provided a golden opportunity for the bus as none had been through for a while and we were the first in the queue. The boys packed them in like sardines. Eventually we arrived at our destination a mere 9 ¼ hours after we started.

Netre has decided that we will spend the night at the New Tibet Hotel. On inspection it looks like the old Tibet. The room is small and I will gauge how the sharing goes tonight. I'm too tired to argue and have a splitting headache as a result of dehydration and a kinked neck from the bus trip. A couple of Nurofern and plenty of water should fix me up.

Saturday 13th November - Syange (1100 metres)

Surprisingly, I had a good night's sleep despite the noise made by the Nepalese guests who came home after 10.00pm. The meals were just Okay but they filled the void. My plan for today was to catch a bus to Bhulbhule (try saying that with your mouth full) and then catch a jeep to Syange.

The bus departed at 8.00am and for once we were not jammed in. Best plans always go astray as there were no jeeps that had spare room available. I had no choice but to follow in the footsteps that Jemma and I made in 2008.

We set off at 9.00am and were traveling at a nice easy pace that I felt I could keep up. The road follows the Marsyangdi River and you are rewarded with fantastic scenery and waterfalls. Along the way you could see women and men working at harvesting rice. Water Buffalo tethered to a stake walked in endless circles crushing the rice underfoot. The good news at the moment is that my feet are not giving me an real trouble. I have to remember to rest at least every 90 minutes so that my feet can breathe.

I kept hoping for a jeep but nothing came along. On one section I looked down to the river and spotted 8 kayakers who were absolutely flying. At about 1.00 pm it started to rain quite heavily (it is supposed to be the dry season) so we took shelter in a teahouse.

After about an hour we continued on slushing our way through the mud. Finally reached Syange at 3.00pm but we only did about 4.5 hours of walking. My guide had no choice on accommodation as I wanted to stay at the Waterfall Guesthouse where Jemma and I stayed. The room is cheap but the food by Nepalese standards is expensive. One price for tourists and another for the guides which is not a problem considering how much they are paid.

Netre has told me that he is receiving 650RP per day out of the 1100RP that I paid the agency. Everyone has to make a profit. It will be early to bed again and still no alcohol has passed my lips. All I have for a drink is water and black tea and a little soup. The meal tonight is a break from Dal Bat so I hope the vegetable momo is up to scratch.

Sunday 14th November – Tal (1700 metres)

After a good nights sleep Netre and I hit the trail at 7.30am blessed with sunshine. The road has now been extended way past Syange almost to Jagat. The road/trail continued to follow the Marsyangdi River. I have never seen so many waterfalls in such a short stretch. We reached Jagat (one guesthouse even promised a high speed internet connection) after 1.5 hours and pushed on to Chyamche which was where it all went to hell for poor Jem in 2008. After resting and taking a few photographs we pushed on.

This is where the trail really begins to get hard. There are lots of loose stones and rocks and you are continually running into donkey trains who don't give an inch. The trail is mostly ascending but you do get an occasional respite with flat ground. The last uphill section before Tal really takes it out of you but when I spied a huge eagle soaring on the air currents my spirits lifted.

Just doing this reminded me of the courage that Jem displayed when she tackled this section feeling as sick as she did. When Tal came into view it lifted my spirits to know that I had nearly finished walking for the day. Walking time was about 5 hours and my feet were just beginning to get sore. I doubt that I could have gone much further without a big rest.

The guesthouse is called Mona Lisa and I had a room by 1.00pm. It is the typical style with wooden floors and detatched bathrooms. Hot water was promised so I jumped in for my first shower since Kathmandu. I would not say it was cold but I just was able to bear the water. It was also a good opportunity to hand wash my socks and jocks. Hopefully the cold wind that has replaced the sunshine will dry them by morning. There is a safe water station here so I will fill my water bottle and do my bit for the environment by not buying plastic. It is pretty cold so I might even get the long johns out tonight.

Monday 15th November – Chame (2670 metres)

This morning I have taken time out to remember my Mum whose birthday it would have been today. She may be gone but she is not forgotten.

Netre and I started walking at 7.45 am with the intention of reaching Dharapani as early as possible. Our path is still following the Marsyangdi River which has a milky blue colour.

There have been plenty of trekkers heading back down and as I'm such a friendly person I always greet them with good morning. The majority of them could barely grunt and if they did it was almost surly. Maybe they have had enough of trekking and want some of the good life again. My guess is that they are French.

The other surprising thing is the high number of trekkers who appear to be older than me. Well we made Dharapani by 10.15 which was ahead of schedule. I lingered for a while and took a few photos to remind Jemma of the place she spent four days trying to recuperate. After completing our trekking formalites at the checkpoint and devouring a boiled egg we continued on to Bagarchhap. From this point we had a good view of the snow caped peak of Manaslu.

We stopped for lunch at Danakyu and I filled up on some fried potato. After a half hour break and my feet well rested it was time to move on. At a restaurant five minutes up the road we encountered a German trio whom we spent the night with in Tal. They had decided to spend the night in Thanchok as they were not confident of reaching Chame. I had similar thoughts and said that I might see them there.

About 15 minutes after leaving them I began the long and arduous ascent to the village of Timang. I have to say that the climb really took it out of me and I'm glad that Jem never had to tackle it when she was sick.

Even though it was cloudy (beautiful sunshine until about 11.30) and cold I was sweating like a pig. The view from the top was terrific as you could look back at the villages hundreds of metres below. From Timang the trail flattened out somewhat which made it easier for walking. We were walking through pine forests and every now and then you would come across a pit where two Nepalese manually worked a two handed saw to cut trunks into usable timber planks.

After reaching Thanchok at 3.00pm I decided to try for Chame as it would make tomorrows trek more bearable. There was another checkpoint at Koto and the police officer on duty reckoned that there was not much accommodation available at Chame due to a large police presence. Netre reckoned he knew a place so we soldiered on. Twenty minutes later we were on the outskirts of Chame and straight into the Nurpu Linga Guesthouse.

I have to say this is the best room so far. It is clean, nicely laid out and has a power point so I can recharge the camera battery. The shower was also a warm trickle but it was sufficient to get the days grime off of me.

By the time I got back to my room I was freezing so I jumped under the blankets fully clothed and contemplated the days walk. I calculated that we must have walked for at least 7.5 hours plus breaks. It was a good test for the feet which just held up today. I think that I might need to take more frequent breaks.

Down for dinner at 5.45 and my extremities were numb from the cold. When I least expect it something good happens. The lady who owns the place came in with a stone slab and a brazier full of hot coals. The first thing I did was warm the pinkies and toes. It felt soooo good when the blood started circulating again. Dinner was good and was same, same. There are two English guys (Sean and Matt) staying here so we stayed up late until 9.00pm just chatting. Nice guys and it was great to have a chin wag in English even if it was only for a short time.

Tuesday 16th November – Upper Pisang (3300 metres)

Would definitely recommend the Nurpu Linga Guesthouse as the hospitality was great and they even have a western style toilet. Today we set off at 8.00am and it to ok about 30 minutes to walk from one end of Chame to the other. It is a big village with a doctor, high school and of course an internet cafe that charges 20RP a minute.

The police were out in force and some were carrying riot equipment. Apparently there is a dispute regarding who was awarded a contract for building a road in the area.

The trail is still following the right bank of the river and it is mostly flat with a small incline. The pine forest needles that line the path dampens the noise of your footsteps. The big plus this morning is that we have sunshine and a clear view of Annapurna 2 (7937m) and Annapurna 4 (7525m).

I think I must have had a slight touch of mountain sickness as I had a slight headache and a dry throat. I popped a Diamox tablet just in case the symptoms got worse. One thing with this tablet is it creates the need to pee so I ended up taking a few breaks.
After crossing the river to the left bank via the swing bridge we had our first and only steep incline. It was no where as bad as yesterday so I put my head down and plugged away at the slope.

The one thing I have noticed is that I am really short of breath when tackling any of the uphill sections. I come good as soon as it flatens out so I suspect that it has to do with the altitude. Not long afterwards we reached Dhikur Pokhari where we broke for lunch. It was great sitting in the sun eating a vegetable noodle soup.

From here it was only a one hour walk to Pisang. The accommodation did not look that great at Lower Pisang so I headed uphill to Upper Pisang. The walk up was straight up for 100 metres but it was certainly worth it. The Annapurna range is so close that you can almost touch the mountains.

We were the first ones to arrive at the Manang Marshyangdi Hotel at about 2.15pm so had the pick of the rooms. The hotel has completely filled up and the last guests to arrive were the English Matt and Sean who have the double bed in the honeymoon suite. Lucky guys!

Wednesday 17th November – Manang (3540 metres)

A very cold night at Upper Pisang but the view was worth it. The food was a bit ordinary and was probably the worst Dal Baht so far. The majority of trekkers are taking the high route for the views but I have settled on the flatter low route to conserve energy and time.

Started trekking around 8.00am but was soon interrupted by a funeral procession at Lower Pisang. It was a Budddist funeral where all the men followed the pall bearers. The women were nearby canting and humming.

The trail to Manang was quite easy with only one small incline. I'm glad that I took the lower path as I am struggling today. I feel like throwing up and my back aches. The views of the mountain ranges are great and I had good vision of Mt Pisang (6091m), and some of Chulu peaks which are also around the 6000m mark.

Today was a first as I headed down the hill towards Humde I was able to touch snow for the first time. I continued to struggle and after a few rest breaks we reached Manang just before 1.00pm.

Another first today, this is the highest altitude that I have ever reached without a plane!

Welcome to Trivandrum, Nepal!

Wednesday 3rd November – Happy Anniversary

A magic day for Alice and I as we celebrate our 9th wedding anniversary today. It is hard to believe that she has put up with me for so long. Time does fly when you are in love and enjoying life. After exchanging anniversary cards and a light breakfast we met up with Tony and Julie for some sightseeing.

Our first visit was the Blue Mosque which Sultan Ahmet 1 built (1606-1616) to try and rival or even surpass the nearby Aya Sofya in beauty and grandeur. The mosque's exterior is voluptuous and has six minarets and the courtyard is the biggest of all the Ottoman mosques.

The interior has also been conceived on a grand scale and it is the blue tiles in the tens of thousands that give the building its unofficial name. There are 260 windows and the central prayer space is huge.

As we were leaving a minor miracle occurred. A young Turkish man approached Tony and asked him if anybody else thought that he looked like the musician Sting. After the son bit in Cappadocia and now this, I do not think that Tony will be returning with us to Australia as his head will not be able to fit through the door of the Emirates jumbo.

Next stop was Istanbul's most famous monument the Aya Sofya which in English is the "Church of the Divine Wisdom". Emperor Justinian (527-565) had the Aya Sofya built as part of his effort to restore the greatness of the Roman Empire. It was completed in 537 after five years by 1000 skilled craftsmen and 10000 unskilled workers. It regarded as the greatest church in Christendom until the conquest in 1453.

Mehmet the Conquerer had it converted to a mosque and so it remained until 1935, when Ataturk proclaimed it a museum. When you walk through the largest door you cannot help but look up at the magnificent dome that soars above you.

From the floor there are magnificent mosaic portraits including the Madonna and child. The upstairs gallery is reached via a switch-back ramp at the northern end of the inner narthex. They must have been ahead of their time as the ramp could be classified as wheelchair accessible. The mosaics on this level are the most impressive and include the Deesis Mosaic (Last Judgment) and portraits of Mary and John the Baptist. There was even some graffiti that tickled Alice's fancy as they had been left inscribed in the marble by Vikings who worked as guards in the 9th century.

After our sightseeing Alice packed a bag and whisked me away to another hotel for a romantic getaway to celebrate nine short years. Along the way we stopped off at Julie and Tony's and they surprised us with an expensive bottle of champagne which I will put to good use. Tony also plied Alice with a cup of Viagra tea which will assist our anniversary night as it helps to clear the sinuses and not what you may have been thinking!

The hotel room that Alice booked at the Great Western Obelisk hotel has been upgraded to a junior suite so we have heaps of room and a very romantic setting. We even have a mini bar which is the first we have seen on our travels in Turkey. The rest of the day is censored material but suffice to say Alice looked gorgeous in her black belly dancer's outfit.

Thursday 4th November – Topkapi Palace

Julie and Tony joined us for the buffet breakfast on the terrace of the Obelisk which overlooks the Marmara Sea. Once again the Turks have mistaken Tony for somebody else as his waiter asked him if he was a bodyguard. Will it ever stop!

After checking back into our original hotel we headed off to visit the Topkapi Palace and joined the masses who wanted to look at a palace that has been the subject of many colorful stories.

Mehmet the Conquerer started work on the palace shortly after the conquest in 1453 and lived there until his death in 1481. Subsequent sultans lived in this rarefied environment until the 19th century.

Topkapi grew and changed over the centuries but the basic four courtyard plan remained the same. This practice allowed the Ottomans to seclude the monarch from the people. The first court was open to all; the second only to people on imperial business; the third only to the imperial family, VIP's, and palace staff; while the fourth was the family quarters.

The second court has a beautiful park like setting with a series of pavillions. This area is also the entrance to perhaps the most famous sight, “THE HAREM”. This was a place where the sultan could engage in debauchery at will. Legend has it that Murat 111 did and managed to have 112 children. It is an extra admission to enter the Harem and highlights include the narrow courtyard of the Black Eunuchs, Sultan Ahmet's Kiosk, the courtyard of the Concubines and the Sultan's Consorts, the Bath House and the Crown Princes apartments.

You enter the Third Court through the Gate of Felicity also known as the Gate of the White Eunuchs. There are many chambers to visit but the most impressive is the Treasury. There was plenty of competition for this room so we dutifully lined up with the hordes. Some of the objects contained here include the sword of Suleyman the Magnificent, Throne of Ahmet 1, Topkapi Dagger and the Spoonmaker's Diamond. This 86 carat diamond has a history of it's own and was originally found in a rubbish dump and purchased by a street pedlar for three spoons.

The Fourth Court has a number of kiosks, swimming pool and all have great views of the Bosphorus and the Marmara Sea. The one place that intrigued us all was the Circumcision Room. The outer walls of the chamber are graced by beautiful tile panels which may have relaxed the young Muslim boys prior to the ritual that admits them to manhood. If only life was so simple today!

After our visit we were wandering up the main drag and spotted a restaurant that was serving food buffet style. Sitting in the hotbox to tempt our taste buds was a big dish of mashed potato. Needless to say we elbowed a few customers out of the way to satisfy our Aussie needs.

Tony and I then ventured off on a Lonely Planet walk that started at the Milion near the Basilica Cistern and finished at the Suleymaniye Camii. The walk took us past a few tombs, mosques, libraries and the grandiose entrance of Istanbul university. It was an interesting walk and a bargain for us as we did not spend anything. The girls headed back to the bazaar for some last minute purchases but were quite restrained as they returned with only a few purchases.

A couple of beers, a light meal and a few songs from Tony was a good end to a busy day.

Friday 5th November – Istanbul Final Day

Our bags needed rearranging so it was around 10.30am before we left the hotel for some more sightseeing. We followed the tram tracks down towards the Golden Horn but needed to take a bladder break at the Golden Arches.

Our goal was the Spice Bazaar which was constructed in the 1600's. There are colorful pyramids of spices and ornate displays of Turkish Delight which maybe where the term eye candy originated. I ended up buying a kilogram of Turkish Delight for 5TL which was substantially less than what the girls paid on our first day in town over near the grand bazaar. On the outskirts of the market there were clothes retailers who unlike The Grand did not hassle you to buy,buy,buy. The prices were excellent as well.

For lunch we walked over the Galata Bridge, past all the fishermen and down to the banks of the Golden Horn. It was a relaxing venue which we shared with Johnathan Livingstone Steroid Seagull. The prawns and fish were sumptuous with the beer and wine flowing freely. A spritely gentleman of 102 had his photograph taken by the girls. The tram ride back to Sultanahmet was packed to the rafters. Alice and I were pressed together so close that it appeared we were engaging in lewd behaviour. Tony managed to clear a path so that we could exit.

Our lift to the airport was early so we had no trouble checking in on time. We boarded our plane on time but all we did was sit tethered to our umbilical cord, the air bridge. Time dragged by slowly as we waited and waited for our plane to roll out onto the runway. To make matters worse I had the only video player on the whole plane that was broken.

After two long hours we were airborne for Dubai. Our pilot advised that there had been a minor technical problem which had been rectified and also heavy air traffic departing Istanbul. This was most likely true as there were a lot of Muslim pilgrims at the airport who were making the Haj to Mecca.

Saturday 6th November – In Transit

Touchdown Dubai 2.45am and we leaped out of our seats and raced for the transit lounge in the vain hope that we would catch our connecting flight to Singapore. Alas, as soon as we approached the transit area they directed us to a counter where we lined up with other passengers whose faces bore a forlorn look. The good folk who work this counter must have one of the world's worst jobs. They take the brunt of all those passengers who want to vent their spleens when a flight is missed. Our guy, clearly harassed, organised a flight at 7.45am for us and went to the trouble of seating the four of us together. Another five hours eating free airport food won't be the death of us. Alice and I lost Tony and Julie so we went off to the Marhabra lounge and wiled our time away.

No delays this time as we plunged down the runway en route for Colombo in Sri Lanka. Colombo! They forgot to mention that there was a stopover on this flight. Oh well, at least we can say that we visited another country even it is only the tarmac of an airport. When we landed the plane literally bounced down the runway which was followed by loud clapping when we had safely stopped. After the Sri Lankan passengers had disembarked the rear door was opened as they cleaned and fueled the plane. We were able to see the palm trees that lined the edge of the airfield and the light tropical storm cooled th plane down. The plane took on a party atmosphere as passengers,including us, walked up and down the aisles quaffing cans of Heineken beer.

On our way again and at last we arrive in Singapore at around 9.15pm a mere eight hours late. It did not take long to clear immigration and retrieve our luggage that had miraculously arrived with us. To add insult to injury as we were walking out through the “Nothing To Declare” zone at customs we were signaled out for a security check of our bags. They were nice and thanked us for our patience. We were going to catch a taxi but the queue was longer than a Brisbane rank on a New Years Eve. Not in the mood to wait for over an hour we paid 50SD for an airport maxi cab that had us at our hotel by 10.30pm. Check in was smooth,the room better than expected and the bed large and comfortable. Sleep came easy and I imagine that there would have been some snoring from our room.

SINGAPORE SLING

The signature tune of the legendary Long Bar of Raffles Hotel is the world famous Singapore Sling. First prepared in the original Raffles Hotel, the seriously fruity drink was invented by barman Ngiam Tong Boon. The popularity of the drink spread throughout the world and although tourists may have tasted the drink in their own country, they still love to sit and sip the drink in the very place that it was invented.

Colour varies with each concoction, but it is essential that the end result is either pink or red to reflect the original belief that it was a woman's drink. Fruit is also vital to the recipe, echoing the 1920's faux-Polynesian craze.

But one of the key, and often overlooked, ingredients in this drink is Benedictine. While the resultant flavour is not overly predominate, it does add a certain 'je ne sais que' that would be totally missing without this secret ingredient. So for a more 'authentic' experience, use:

30ml (1 fl oz) Gin, 15 ml (0.5 fl oz) Cherry Brandy, 120 ml (4.25 fl oz) Pineapple Juice, 15 ml (0.5 fl oz) Lime Juice, 7.5 ml (0.25 fl oz) Cointreau, 7.5 ml (0.25 fl oz) Dom Benedictine, 10 ml (0.35 fl oz) Grenadine, a dash of Angostura Bitters, and garnish with a slice of Pineapple and Cherry.

Sunday 7th November – Orchard Road and Raffles

Just before midday we eventually awoke from our long slumber. Being brave souls and lovers of public transport we jumped on the MRT and headed for the shopping mecca of Orchard Road. As soon as we left the station complex we were engulfed by a sea of shoppers with the majority being young Singaporeans. Being hungry we sought sanctuary from the masses in the first food hall that we saw.

Later we wandered down the length of Orchard Road marveling at the number of mega shopping outlets and the shopping zeal of all the people. I suspect that even hardened veterans like Julie and Alice would need a few days to adjust and decide where they could find the best bargains. As we neared the end of our walk we came across a changing of the guard ceremony near the town hall. The guards and the marching band were immaculate in their white uniforms and shiny spit polished black boots.

Before dinner we headed off to Raffles Hotel which is steeped in history and the epitome of elegant days gone by. Built in 1887, it was considered the place to stay by upper class British colonials and, even today, no visit to Singapore can be considered complete without stopping by.

Standing on the corner of Beach and Bras Basah roads in the heart of Old Singapore, it brings in thousands of daily visitors eager to catch a glimpse of a fashionable yesteryear. English writer, Somerset Maugham, once called Raffles Hotel the legendary symbol for "all the fables of the Exotic East". Popularized in the 1920's and onwards by the likes of Noel Coward, Rudyard Kipling, Joseph Conrad and Charlie Chaplin, Raffles guest list reads like a who's who of famous faces. Set in tropical gardens and terracotta-tiled courtyards, the hotel was a British oasis and relaxing in the Long Bar played a quintessential part in this civilized stopover to an unfamiliar, Asian world.

The Long Bar is designed in the style of the old Malaysian plantations of the 1920's, with many drawings of flapper girls and young men in their dinner suits and top hats. You can easily visualise Noel Coward in his smoking jacket, tinkling the ivories of the piano, while he sings songs about mad dogs and Englishmen. Suspended from the ceiling are rows of wicker fans attached to motorized contraptions that turn a pulley and cause the fans to twirl. It's an ingenious early pre-air conditioning method that wafts a cool breeze over you as you sip your drink. In the bar there are bowls of monkey nuts and it is slightly ironic that tradition dictates you drop the shells on the floor when littering is actually an offence in Singapore. Although sparrows fly in from the balcony outside and sit on the floor to eat the shells, wherever you walk there is a fabulous crunching sound, so don't be prudish.

Although many people find that a couple of hours are plenty, and that the prices are high, it wouldn't be the same if you went to Singapore and didn't have a Sing Sling. It's like having a Guinness in Dublin or a Manhattan in Manhattan. Sometimes these things just have to be done even if it did cost 101SD for two slings and two beers. Raffles now holds the record for the most expensive beer that I have ever purchased. It was lucky that Tony and I ate nearly 20SD of monkey nuts.

Julie was keen for some Indian food from little India but as it was raining and taxis scarce Alice and I decided on a steak near our hotel. As is always the case when you have your heart set on something it does not always work out. As we approached the doors they put up the closed sign so we had no choice but to head for the plastic chairs of a local Asian restaurant. It wasn't long before I was sucking back on a big tiger beer and eating some satay and fried rice.

The food was a little bit ordinary but the price was spot on. Tony reported back that they had given up on a taxi and decided to walk to Little India. They found a nice restaurant and had a reasonable curry meal but were a little put out when they noticed a giant rat (not in restaurant). On the way back to the hotel they also saw quite a few homeless people.

Monday 8th November – Singapore Zoo

The weather is still holding up so we decided to jump into a taxi and spend a day at the zoo. This was better and cheaper than booking a tour as we were able to set our own pace and agenda. The first stop was the famous free ranging Orangutans who are so close to being human. There was a new-born who did not venture too far from the protective mum. Next we jumped on a boat and headed to the opposite end of the zoo to view some more exotic animals. My favourite in this area was the colourful Mandrill who sat on a stump scratching himself and snarling at the spectators. He certainly reminded me of a few people that I know! There was a large troop of Chimpanzees who never fail to entertain as well as crocodiles, snakes, komodo dragons, sun bears and proboscis monkeys. If you have never seen a Proboscis Monkey then google it as their beer gut, nose and tail have to be seen to be believed.

After lunch we saw the lions being fed but they were obviously well fed as a crow decided to finish off the leftover meat. As you pass by the White Rhinoceros and the Zebras in their striped pyjamas you are overcome by the stench from the droppings that these animals have peppered the ground with. Other animals include Jemma's favourite the Cheetah, Gnu, Ostrich, Giraffe and the elusive Jaguar. The fragile forest exhibit also housed Ring-Tailed Lemur, Flying Foxes, Butterflies and a range of birds.

To ease our aching feet we jumped on the train foe a couple of circuits before alighting at the Great Rift Valley of Ethiopia exhibit. The main character in this play of animals was the Hamadryas Baboons. There is a troop of nearly 80 baboons, alongside the nubian ibexes, black backed jackals and banded mongooses in this impressive landscaped exhibit. The Pygmy Hippopotamus was also good as the female had just given birth. The new offspring is just one week old and is already learning to hold it's breath and walk underwater. Too round off a very good day we viewed the White Tigers, Malaysian Tapir, African Penguins, Manatee and Gibbons. All in all a day at the zoo brings out the child in you as you marvel at God's handiwork. The Singapore Zoo is world class and definitely deserves a visit.

Back near our hotel Tony and I are having a couple of beers while the girls check out a clothing store they have discovered. I chose a large Baron beer and was surprised when I read the alcohol content was 8.8%. A couple of these and I would be under the table.

Dinner tonight was next door to the hotel on the plastic chairs. Julie and I selected a dish called chili crab which should not have an adverse impact on our stomachs. We made a mess of the table as pieces of crab shell and chili sauce were thrown haphazardly onto the empty plates of Tony and Alice. They were a little more timid and selected a set Indian meal which judging by their plates was tasty.

Tuesday 9th November – Nightmare on “Silk Air” Street

While Tony and I relaxed at the hotel the girls hit the trenches for a last minute bargain at yesterdays shop. They did not disappoint and came back with armfuls of goodies. We checked out just after midday and headed off for the airport. On arrival we discovered that the taxi driver had dropped us at the wrong terminal so we boarded the skytrain to our respective terminals. I gave Alice a kiss goodbye and said I would meet her at the Emirates check in if I could get my bags checked for my flight which was not for another seven hours.

I was feeling pretty good when I approached the counter as they were willing to take my bag. Things turned bad when I was asked if I had a visa. I said I would get one when I arrived in Kathmandu. She replied “Sir, your ticket is for India” too which I replied I don't want to go to India. After some more discussion I worked out that I had booked the flight incorrectly. My mistake was that the Indian city I was booked to travel to had a similar name to Kathmandu's airport. I immediately cancelled the flight and made my way to the Singapore Airlines ticketing office where I took a ticket and waited for my turn. By this time I knew that I would not be catching up with the others for a quiet drink before takeoff. The following section will need updating by Alice.

My turn at the counter soon came around and I was greeted by a very efficient customer service officer. It must have been my lucky day to strike someone who not only knew her job but went out of her way to help the poor misguided fool standing in front of her. She could have left me to my own devices but she rang Silk Air and got them to refund my ticket and reissue a new ticket for Kathmandu. My only problem is that there were no economy seats left for my return flight on 7th December. Now when Alice reads this I know that she will be understanding when she sees I solved the return flight by flying business class at an extra cost of 870SD. Overall my mistake has cost about an extra $400 Australian.

My flight is at 9.00am tomorrow and as I am stuck in Singapore for an extra night I have decided to lash out on some McDonald's before trying to find a hotel room. Surfing the net I tried to find a budget hotel and found a few in the right price bracket. I decided not to book as I was not sure how quick the confirmation would be. Instead I sauntered over to the Hotel Reservations counter who promptly booked a night at the Fragrance Ruby Hotel for 55SD. This was about 10SD cheaper than I could get online.

At the next counter I booked a shuttle bus for 9SD and 30 minutes later I had checked in. The hotel is apparently in the red light district so that would explain the cheap rate. The room is clean, the size is reasonable, there is also a television but the room smells of cigarette smoke even though no smoking rules apply. I have asked for a wake up call as I don't want to miss another flight.

I went for a walk just before dinner and did not see any girls plying their trade. Perhaps I was a little early for ladies of the night. Choosing somewhere to eat was difficult as there are a plethora of restaurants. Ended up having some delicious seafood noodles and a couple of beers before heading back to the hotel. One thing that did strike me was that I was the only white face amongst a sea of Chinese and Indian faces. A little bit of television before a sleep which did not come until way after midnight. I guess that I may have been a little wound up after the days misadventures.

NAMASTE NEPAL

Namaste would have to be one of the world's best greetings. This traditional greeting is not a handshake but a spoken word that is expressed with a slight bow of the head along with clasping ones hands together in perfect form beneath the chin. Nepali people are very respectful to their guests and a guest to a Nepali is a God. This is an old attitude and a tradition in Nepalese society. You just can't help feeling that all the greetings are heartfelt and genuine. I am coming to the end of what has been a great break so I hope you can put with a few more pages of my ramblings.

Wednesday 10th November – Kathmandu

After a really poor night's sleep I was up at six feeling a little bleary and worse for wear and tear. A quick taxi ride to the airport and an even quicker check in allowed me some time to grab some breakfast. Once again I weakened and went for the McDonald's big breakfast with coffee. Whilst there I jumped on the net to find out where I would have ended up in India. Trivandrum is a beach resort area located on the south west bottom of India. Thank goodness I needed a visa as who knows what I would be doing now.

The five hour flight went without any hitches. The last 45 minutes is always the best and today was no exception as we had clear skies and a wonderful panorama of the Himalayan mountain range. I did not have a visa prior to arrival as I thought it would be cheaper than in Australia. For once I was correct and the beauty was that this line moved quicker than the line for people with visas. I was out of the airport in under 30 minutes and was hoping that the Hotel Ganesh Himal would be there to pick me up.

Someone grabbed me who had the hotel sign but he had no vehicle. To cut a long story short the hotel does not know David Gould, I guess they don't check random emails. The good news is they have a standard double room which looks and smells better than last night's room. It is also cheaper than the one I booked and they may not charge me for my no show.

David and Tony in Love Valley

Sunday 24th October – Olympos

A great breakfast and in the light of day still a great setting. The sky is blue and yet again we are lucky as it only stopped raining two days ago. After catching up on a few housekeeping duties it was time to head for the beach. The walk down was fairy tale pretty. Set inside a deep shaded valley that runs directly to the sea you pass by the ruins of the old Lycian city. As you reach the beach you can spot fortresses along the cliff tops that were built in the middle ages by the Venetians, Genoese and Rhodeans.

The long pebble beach is situated on a curved bay and you can get some shelter from the sun by sitting at the base of the limestone cliffs. The water was warm and I can imagine that it would be a top place in the heat of summer. Tony and I are maintaining peak fitness by swimming a few hundred metres. The difficult part is when you exit the water because the bank is steep and made of pebbles. Tony looked like he had been washed ashore after he took an eternity to get out.

The others decided to head back to the tree houses while I went exploring the ruins. I felt like a modern day Indiana Jones as the ruins appear undiscovered among wild grapevines, bay trees, wild figs and pine trees. I followed the right side of a stream listening to the birds and fogs without anybody in sight. There was an old Roman theatre, baths, necropolis and tombs. After all this effort a rest was in order so back to the others I trudged.

After dinner tonight we embarked on a tour to Chimaera which is also known as the Burning Rock. It is basically a cluster of flames that blaze spontaneously from crevices on the rocky slopes of Mt Olympos. The site is the stuff of legends and it is not difficult to see why.

Ancient peoples attributed these extraordinary flames to the breath of a monster – part lion, part goat and part dragon. The tour did not get off to a good start as when we arrived our driver gave us a torch that emitted a beam no greater than a firefly and pointed us to a path and said only one kilometre. He omitted to mention that the route was steep, uneven and rocky.

When we finally reached the site there were about 20 flames burning from various areas. The gas just seeps out of the earth and bursts into flame upon contact with the air. We loitered in this ethereal place for about ten minutes before starting the treacherous descent.

By now our torches were hardly casting any light and we were lucky that the moon was full to help guide us down. Unfortunately, the path was so bad that Alice fell twice and bruised herself badly. The only saving grace that no body parts were sprained or broken. I hope she does not go to the doctor as I might be charged with wife bashing. Tony and Julie fared little better, in the fading light of their torch they missed the path and ended up going through the bush to get down. Overall it is an impressive site best done at night but you need to be prepared for the trip. A little more information prior to departing would have helped.

Monday 25th October – Antalya

Our stay at www.bayrams.com was great and all of us would have no trouble chilling out here for a few more days. A lazy morning of packing our bags and we will be off on another couple of buses to Antalya where we will stay in the old area of Kaleici which is a virtually vehicle free district.

The bus trip from Olympos to Antalya takes about one hour and travels over mountain ranges as well as hugging the coastline.

After being deposited at the Otogar (bus terminal) we jumped into a taxi for the last leg of the trip. The driver must have thought he was competing in the world rally as he ducked and weaved his way through the traffic. In no time flat we arrived at the Kaleici Lodge Hotel which is a converted Ottoman House. This is probably the best accommodation that we have stayed in so far in Turkey. One drawback is that we are about 50 metres from the local mosque which could have implications when the call to prayer is blasted out from the loudspeakers attached atop the minaret.

Alice and Julie have decided to check out the local bazaar in search of long lost treasures, handbags and shoes. Tony and I thought we would accompany them for a change. We lasted all of 15 minutes as by that time they had only traversed 20 metres of shop front.

Leaving them to their own devices we went exploring the labyrinth of the old town. You can easily get lost as you walk down and around the narrow cobblestone streets which are bordered by many fine Ottoman houses. We ended up down at the old harbour where local boys were diving off the rocks and the tourists sporting the latest swimming wear lounged on sun beds at the small beach. Dodging a few touts who tried to persuade us to take a last minute cruise on the bay at a very special price we escaped to the serenity of a harbour bar and downed a couple of Efes beers.

The girls returned and regaled us with the wonders that they had seen and the courage they displayed when passing up the trinkets that had been paraded before them. They did weaken slightly and managed to relieve some store owners of their wares. The store owners in Antalya they encountered are more aggressive than anywhere else so far in Turkey. It is difficult to even leave a shop once you have entered and some are quite rude if you don't buy. They must get a lot of German and Dutch tourists as the first greeting is always in those languages. This may or may not explain the aggressive selling tactics.

After dark we went for a walk along the waterfront and had dinner at an inexpensive restaurant overlooking the water. The food was not exceptional but the service and the view were excellent. Our waiter managed to tempt us with a glass of Raki, the traditional spirit of Turkey. It has a aniseed taste reminiscent of Ouzo but slightly better. It is best drunk when mixed with water which gives it a cloudy alkaseltzer appearance. I'm still under the weather so Alice my loving wife has taken me home to nurse me. Tony and Julie the party animals stopped at a local bar and listened to a local singer playing great songs until 1.00am.

Tuesday 26th October – Noisy Mosque

Six a clock already, I was just in the middle of a dream, I was kissing Valentino .....is all I could get to in this old Bangles classic when the loudspeakers of the nearby mosque started the morning prayer. Our sleep was shattered by 100 decibels of prayer that continued for what seemed forever but in reality was about five minutes. We did manage a little more sleep before going down for breakfast in the shaded garden area of the hotel.

The girls wanted to take Tony and I shopping for male fashion garments so we relented and joined the madding crowd. They settled on a store that had all the big names proudly displayed on dummies, not Tony and David.

I have to admit that they have good taste as we looked like fashion models decked out in the latest numbers from Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger (or is that half finger) and Armani. After being relieved of a substantial sum of Turkish Lira we headed for the harbour looking for respite in a bottle of Efes.

We all needed a rest before dinner except Julie who continued to seek out the bargains. Over dinner we started chatting to a Norwegian who casually remarked that on Wednesday there was a market which is frequented by the locals. This immediately piqued the girls interest and before long they had cajoled our waiter into writing down the directions and what stop they would need on the tram.

Wednesday 27th October – Market Day

Another blast from the minaret speakers brought us straight out of our slumber. Fortified by a hardy breakfast we made our way to the tramway and purchased our tickets for the trip.

It wasn't hard to determine which direction to walk as there was a throng of people with all manner of baskets heading towards a large covered building. The ground floor was for fruit and veges and they were doing a roaring trade. The pumpkins were so large that Alice had to take a photo.

The next floor reminded me of a scene from a movie where all the stock brokers are in a frenzy on the stock market floor buying and selling the latest dot com stock. This really got the girls juices flowing and they leaped into the fray in search of bargains.

Tony and I soon lost them among the seething wave of humanity that was surging through the aisles. We soldiered on, inspecting a few items and left the arena after being battered by strollers and elbowed by bargain hungry Turkish matriarchs. Luckily we had prearranged a meeting point and time so we adjourned to this haven to lick our wounds and take solace in a cup of tea.

Dead on time the girls triumphantly appeared weighed down with all manner of apparel. There was so much booty that they quickly decided that Julie needed to buy another suitcase. I looked after the goods as they went back in for another round of shopping. They emerged with the said suitcase plus a few, just in case, extra items.

When we returned to Kaleici I decided to try another Turkish bath and massage in an effort to shake off some of the lethargy I was feeling as a result of the cold.

I settled on a 700 year old hamam which offered the works for only 35TL. I entered the sacred domain of men where no women are allowed (a bit like the Tattersals club) and was amazed by all the white marble. I sat down on the marble seat, my modesty protected by a skimpy Turkish towel and started ladling myself like an old pro from the marble basin at my side. It was soon my turn and I was summoned to lie down on the marble bench where I took all they could give like a man.

After being washed , scrubbed, peeled and shampooed I made my way to the massage room. I can tell you that there is nothing exciting about being massaged and oiled by a balding, middle aged Turkish man who is clothed in only a towel and plastic sandals. The massage however was excellent and we worked out a few knots from my shoulders.

Emerging from the hamam feeling clean and relaxed the first person I saw was Julie with Tony in tow. She was on her way to another store to finalise her Antalya purchases which by now as you have read is substantial. Alice is not to far behind.

After the excitement of today we are resting up and enjoying a few wines before we catch a taxi to the Otogar. Once there we will board a 10.00pm overnight bus (10 hours) for the town of Goreme in the area of Cappadocia. I doubt that the trip will be like Paul Kelly's song – from St Kilda to Kings Cross spent 10 hours on a Greyhound bus. Time will tell and the result will be promulgated in tomorrow's edition.

Thursday 28th October – Fairy Chimneys

Alice who moonlights as a pharmacist was able to purchase some sleeping tablets to assist us on our journey north. After dropping one pill each we could not even stifle a yawn so another one made the journey into our bloodstream. This had the desired effect and we managed a few hours sleep. When I say we this does not include Julie who can sleep anywhere.

She managed six hours sleep and would have gotten eight if the bus had not stopped for rest breaks. Overall the journey was not too strenuous given the horrendous stories that we have heard. The roads were in good condition, the driver excellent and the bus slightly more comfortable than economy class on Emirates.

The bus pulled over a hill just before 7.00am and there below us was the village of Goreme set amid cones and pinnacles of volcanic tuff.

After being dropped at the bus station we hired a taxi to take us to our hotel (www.kelebekhotel.com) which was a mere five minutes away. The challenge was getting all of our luggage into the taxi which we managed by placing bags on our laps. The taxi driver quipped “are you sure there are only four passengers”. Given that it was only 7.30 we knew our rooms would not be ready however the management kindly stored our bags and let us sit and have breakfast on the terrace.

While we were sitting there Alice counted 36 balloons that had launched for their early morning flights. It was quite spectacular and looked like the mountains were giving birth to all these balloons. By 11.00 am we had been allocated our rooms with Tony and Julie upgraded for one night to the presidential suite. You could probably play a game of cricket in there but Julie had her mind set on running a bath and drowning herself in a sea of bubbly foam. I would hazard a guess that Tony will be in a loin cloth feeding her grapes.

Our room (No. 17 can be viewed on the website) is a cave room with plenty of space and a huge patio which overlooks the village. The one thing that is missing, as it has been at every other hotel in Turkey, is a bar fridge to keep our beer cold.

Everyone is still a little tired from the bus trip so it is a little shut eye before we venture out for an afternoon walk.

Feeling refreshed we walked downtown for a late light lunch and to check out tour prices. At the bus terminal we were approached by a Turkish tour operator whom Tony had befriended when we arrived this morning. After some wheeling and dealing with this Arthur Daley of Turkey we had booked a hot air balloon flight for an unbelievably low price of 100 Euro and an all day tour for 70TL. This was about 55 Euro cheaper than the price quoted by our hotel. All Arthur had to do was deliver and as we had paid only a deposit we were not too concerned.

A little light rain cut short our exploration but we did manage to find a market that sold beer and carried a range of the local drop. Early to bed as we have a 5.00am wake up call.

Friday 29th October – Up, Up and Away

At 3.00am there had been a big thunderstorm followed by torrential rain so we were not sure if there would be any flights. We are all awake and standing at the front of the Kelebek Hotel with the other faithful who have booked flights with other companies. I'm not sure if the local dogs are devout Muslims because when the 5.45 call to prayer commenced they all began to howl as if there lives were in danger.

One by one the other balloon riders were picked up by various operators until only we were left standing on the pavement in the early morning light. When we had all just about given up hope Turkish Arthur pulled up in his mini van.

A short drive downtown and he pulled up outside a building and disappeared inside for what seemed an eternity. Our doubts were beginning to grow like a Kimberley king tide but he emerged with another tourist in tow. Turned out he had fallen back to sleep and they were trying to wake him. After introductions it turned out that John was an Aussie (all was forgiven) from Shorncliffe in Brisbane.

Another bumpy short ride through a few fields and we were at our launch site. It did not take us long to figure out that Turkish Arthur had changed companies and we were now flying with www.ezairballoons.com

This turned out to be in our favour as there were only nine passengers which included Turkish Arthur and his wife. These guys were really professional and despite being the last people to be picked up we were the second balloon airborne.

Our pilot soon had us drifting slowly above the fairy chimneys at a height where you could almost reach down and touch them. The wind took us over the Rose and Pigeon valleys and close to the towns of Uchisar and Urgup. The fields were laid out like a well organised patchwork quilt. Just on an hour the pilot landed us gently on the trailer in a perfect landing. I immediately dashed for the sanctuary of an olive tree before I could enjoy the celebratory glass of champagne.

Back at the hotel we dashed down a quick breakfast before heading off on the full day Green Tour which set us back 70TL.

Our first stop was a photo opportunity which gave us a wonderful panorama of the Goreme valley. Our guide told us that approximately 400 Christian churches have been discovered in the area as the landscape allowed them to hide and escape persecution from the Romans.

Back into the mini bus for a thirty minute drive to the underground city of Derinkuyu. During the 6th and 7th centuries the Persian an Arabic armies set off to vanquish the Christians, beacons were lit and the warning could travel from Jerusalem to Constantinople in hours. When the warning reached Cappadocia, the Byzantine Christians would escape into secret tunnels leading to vast underground cities.

Some 10000 people lived in Derinkuyu spending months at a time down there. This city had seven levels and we went down about 65 metres to about the fifth level. The narrow walkways lead you into the depths of the earth, through stables with handles used to tether animals, churches with altars, walls with air circulation holes and blackened kitchens with ovens.

A change of pace for our next activity as we are going for a four kilometre hike in the Ihlara Valley which is southeast of Aksaray. We are only walking a small section of this 13 km valley which scythes its way through stubby fields. Descending 360 knee jarring steps down from the tourist facility we bottomed out next to a captivating little church with great frescoes.

The valley was a favourite retreat for Byzantine monks who cut churches into the base of the towering cliffs. We followed the river which snakes between piles of boulders and a sea of greenery of Pistachio and Poplar trees which rang with birdsong. All too soon our walk ended but we were still able to admire the scenery as we lunched at the Belisirma restaurant perched on the bank of the river.

A short drive brought us to the Selime monastery which is an astonishing rock-cut structure incorporating a vast kitchen, church with a gallery and a chapel. The church had beautifully carved columns and vaults. Tony and I gave a stirring rendition of Amazing Grace which the other tourists stopped to listen to. Alice said the acoustics were so good that even I sounded credible. The fairy chimneys opposite the monastery were apparently used in one of the star wars movies.

A drive of 80km brought us to our penultimate stop which was a view of Pigeon Valley. It was named this because until recently the villagers used to keep pigeons in small caves. The droppings were used for fertilizer and as a base for the artwork used in the many churches.

The last stop was the normal trap for tourists and this time it was an Onyx factory where jewelry was manufactured. You don't have to guess who the last person out was? With a major storm brewing we headed back into town. On arrival in Goreme we were greeted with a blackout and teeming rain. I volunteered to purchase some liquid refreshments and then trudged uphill to the hotel. After a hot shower, wine, beer and a light meal it was off to bed for a well deserved rest.

Saturday 30th October – Open Air Museum

Another overcast day and as Tony who is never right has predicted rain we will venture forth to the world heritage listed Goreme Open Air Museum. The museum is an essential stop on any Cappadocian itinerary and deserves a long visit.

This site is a cluster of rock-cut churches, chapels and monasteries. As it is a Turkish long weekend there are hundreds of visitors all vying to enter the small churches, blocking the light and taking flash pictures. You follow a cobbled path which leads to all the churches. It pays to invest another 5TL for the audio tour to gain a better understanding of all the frescoes that are displayed within the churches.

Some of the churches we visited included St Basil, Apple, Chapel of St Barbara, Snake and Sandal. There is also a large refectory with a long dining table with rock-cut benches and holes for candles. The most famous church is the stunning fresco filled Dark Church.

It costs extra to enter and this is due to a costly renovation and an attempt to keep numbers down which in the long run will preserve the frescoes. When you exit the museum you can visit the Tokali Kilise (Buckle Church) which is about 50 metres down the hill. This is one of Goreme's biggest and finest churches with an underground chapel and fabulous frescoes painted in a narrative style which portray the life of Christ.

We had a short rest in the afternoon before heading off for an early evening cultural event called the Whirling Dervishes. The dance took place in a cavern and follows a mystical form of Islam. The performance represents a union with God and is like a rebirthing to reach a higher level with God.

For us the performance was interesting but a little boring. Afterwards we adjourned to a local restaurant where we indulged in a local dish called Cappadocian clay pot kebab. A casserole of various ingredients is sealed in a clay pot and then baked in the oven. The waiter breaks the seal and sometimes the pot at your table. The food was absolutely fabulous.

Sunday 31st October – Cooking and Walking

Alice and Julie have headed off for a spot of Turkish cooking at a local lady's house. The first thing they noticed was how spotless the kitchen and house were. They learned how to prepare and cook lentil soup, dolmade, stuffed capsicum and a desert called "aside". After cooking the meals they both had the pleasure of eating their creations. The verdict was a definite thumbs up.

Tony and I decided that we needed a no cost option that helped remove the ever growing calories we have been accumulating around our girth as a result of the Efes beer. We ended up walking the Love, Zemi, Red and Rose valleys.

The first valley entered was the Love Valley and it was not long before we stood erect on the summit of a small hill. Surrounding us were stacks of fairy chimneys up to 40 metres in height with conical shapes and are topped by caps of harder rock resting on pillars of softer rock. Depending on your perspective they either look like over sized mushrooms or giant phalluses, hence the name Love Valley.

Zemi valley was adjacent so we followed the gravel road which is popular with quad bikes past several farms. There were a number of flat grassy locations that would have made good camping spots. We called it quits when the track became to wet and boggy and returned back to the main road.

After a refreshing cup of apple tea we made tracks for the Red and Rose valleys. One track led us up a narrow winding gorge where hardly any sunlight penetrated. We scrambled up a couple of vertical rock faces using the hand holds that had been gouged into the rock. We turned back when the going became too tough even for a couple of old Inala boys.

Over in the next valley there were sections fenced off where farmers were growing a range of vegetables including a small plot of Marijuana plants. We had visions of the old movie Midnight Express which was set in a Turkish prison so we left the area and headed back into town for lunch. Our estimate was that we had accomplished about 10 km of walking.

Just as we were about to start eating the girls sauntered by armed with cash for another assault on the shops. They are in good spirits as they have found a shop with fixed prices that is substantially cheaper than all the others. Tony and I said that we would purchase a few drinks and that they could join us on our patio after shopping. A relaxing time was had by all but as the sun disappeared we adjourned inside to escape the cold.

Our last Cappadocia evening was spent at a restaurant called Fat Boys. The owners are a Turkish husband and Australian wife who met here while she was pack packing in the 90's. Tony and I opted for a home made meat pie with chips which we drowned in tomato sauce. A hamburger with chips for Alice and nachos for Julie rounded off a typical Aussie pub lunch. We all must be missing home - the meals were delicious.

Monday 1st November – Back to Istanbul

Woke early this morning to another beautiful day. Outside our window the sky is alive with colorful balloons hovering over the ridges and fairy chimneys in the valley. One was so close I could nearly reach out and shake hands with the passengers. After breakfast I had a chat with a blind American. I knew he was blind because he asked Tony if he was my son. Now I have to listen to Tony calling me "Dad" and him on our last trip being recognised as a Vietnam veteran. What a way to finish your last morning in Cappadocia!

Our 10.00 pickup for the airport has arrived and we are really sad to be leaving this enchanting place. As we pulled out of Goreme we could see in the distance a single snow capped mountain towering above all the others. It reminded us of pictures that we had seen of Mt Fuji in Japan.

The flight on Turkish Airlines went smoothly and they did not question the over weight luggage that Julie and Tony were trying to smuggle on board. We picked up our luggage and were soon on our prearranged pickup to the Ararat Hotel.

We were all looking forward to staying here as the location is across the road from the Blue Mosque and we were paying top Euro for the privilege.

It never pays to have high expectations as only one of our rooms was available and the manager tried to pass it off. All that was available was a small standard room which Tony aptly described as being like the “Big Tiger” gaol cells in Vietnam or smaller than Chopper Reid's gaol cell. It was a huge letdown which prompted them to look for another hotel. Alice and I were also disappointed as the room although clean is tired and rundown. To put it simply we are all slightly pissed and after even a quick look around, there are plenty of better establishments with spare rooms at this time of year for the same money.

After we stowed our luggage it was time to hit a bar to drown our sorrows. The Efes and wine was flowing freely so we thought it was prudent to have something to eat. Tony struck up a conversation,as he always does, with a couple of Swiss matrons and soon had them laughing with tales of William Tell and his arch enemy Gessler.

The waiter in an effort to keep us there gave everyone except Alice (bad seating position) a five minute massage. It worked as we ended up with a bill of 190TL. Back at the hotel I was awoken from my deep sleep by the sound of drums. I eventually worked out that there had been a performance at the bazaar across the road which luckily finished at 11.00pm.

Tuesday 2nd November – The Bosphorus

After a really good night's sleep I hit the shower hoping that it would be at least lukewarm. In fact it was scalding but the only problem was that I could not keep the knob up that diverts the water from the tap to the shower. I looked a little ridiculous soaping myself up with one hand and holding a little knob in the other.

We had a nice breakfast on the terrace overlooking the sea and the bottomless cups of tea and coffee went down well. A giant seagull who looked like it was on steroids watched us silently hoping we would drop some scraps for it. The internet is handy as I found out the winner of the Melbourne Cup was Americain who is a northern hemisphere horse. One of my regular TransLink complainants an elderly spinster named Rita Malone predicted that a horse from the north would win.

Tony and Julie moved their bags to the new hotel which is significantly better. As a group we decided to head down to the Marmara Sea and take a stroll along the boardwalk as far as the Galata Bridge which crosses the Golden Horn.

Along the way we could see the remnants of the old city wall which is in tact for quite a distance. Out on the water there was a pod of dolphins which were close to shore chasing what appeared to be a school of bait fish. Old gnarled Turkish fishermen lined the bank spinning for fish. One fellow was particularly good as he caught a couple of garfish in short time. A large fishing trawler heading for home steamed past and was being trailed by hundreds of squawking seagulls.

On arrival at the quay we were quickly accosted by a salesman offering a two hour Bosphorus cruise for 20TL. As this was something we wanted to do he had an easy sale.
Our boat departed from the Golden Horn. Tony and I could not help but think of the iconic Brisbane hairdresser, Raymond who invented the hairstyle which will never come back the Merino Horn.

The boat followed the European shoreline and we cruised at a leisurely pace past old palaces, mosques, naval submarines and a flotilla of watercraft. Along the shore there were hordes of fishermen trying their luck in the briny and people sitting in restaurants enjoying the view.

Our boat turned around at the second bridge called the Faith Sultan Mehmet. Just before the bridge the majestic structure of Rumeli Hisari (Fortress of Europe) looms over a small village. It was built in a mere four months during 1452 by Rumeli for Mehmet the Conquerer for his planned siege of Constantinople. The location is the narrowest point of the Bosphorus. Clever fellows!

We followed the Aisan shoreline back to the Golden Horn and passed a number of well preserved, frilly Ottoman-era wooden houses. These were summer houses built by the aristocracy in the 17th,18th and 19th centuries. A great little cruise which could be enhanced by having a hop on and hop off function so you could admire some of the sites at closer quarters.

As this holiday inevitably centres around our gastronomical delights I take great pleasure in telling you about an Istanbul institution – The Fish Sandwich. When we exited our cruise boat we happened upon a boat moored to the shore that had a smoky cooker fired up and loaded with fish fillets. The quick cooked fish is crammed into a quarter loaf of fresh bread and served with lettuce and onion. It set us back a mere 4TL and even I, who does not usually eat fish, declared it delicious.

As we came closer to the Galata Bridge there were loads of fish sandwich sellers. After crossing the bridge we came across a fish market selling live fish and I did notice some salmon going for 10TL a kilo. There were also a number of basic seafood restaurants doing a brisk trade and we may venture back here another day.

Public transport was looking good for our return back to Sultanahmet so we boarded a public tram that soon had us back in familiar surroundings. The girls checked out a leather shop whilst Tony and I whiled away our time street watching and sipping on a very expensive beer. The girls came out empty handed which was a pleasant surprise. We had a quick look in one of the sections of he Blue Mosque before heading back to the hotel.

We met up with Tony and Julie for dinner just after 7.00pm. Once again we ran the gauntlet of head waiters who all but drag you into their restaurants. Tony is always very polite as he explains that we are just looking and may come back later, not! The rest of us just tend to ignore the banter, in a polite way, by walking straight past.

Ended up settling on a place that offered a large beer, doner kebab, chips, rice and salad for 15TL. The girls managed to swap the beer for wine and the waiter was great saying no problem. A lot cheaper than last night with a bill of only 86TL. No nightcaps tonight as we are all a little tired after all that walking today.