A magic day for Alice and I as we celebrate our 9th wedding anniversary today. It is hard to believe that she has put up with me for so long. Time does fly when you are in love and enjoying life. After exchanging anniversary cards and a light breakfast we met up with Tony and Julie for some sightseeing.
Our first visit was the Blue Mosque which Sultan Ahmet 1 built (1606-1616) to try and rival or even surpass the nearby Aya Sofya in beauty and grandeur. The mosque's exterior is voluptuous and has six minarets and the courtyard is the biggest of all the Ottoman mosques.
The interior has also been conceived on a grand scale and it is the blue tiles in the tens of thousands that give the building its unofficial name. There are 260 windows and the central prayer space is huge.
As we were leaving a minor miracle occurred. A young Turkish man approached Tony and asked him if anybody else thought that he looked like the musician Sting. After the son bit in Cappadocia and now this, I do not think that Tony will be returning with us to Australia as his head will not be able to fit through the door of the Emirates jumbo.
Next stop was Istanbul's most famous monument the Aya Sofya which in English is the "Church of the Divine Wisdom". Emperor Justinian (527-565) had the Aya Sofya built as part of his effort to restore the greatness of the Roman Empire. It was completed in 537 after five years by 1000 skilled craftsmen and 10000 unskilled workers. It regarded as the greatest church in Christendom until the conquest in 1453.
Mehmet the Conquerer had it converted to a mosque and so it remained until 1935, when Ataturk proclaimed it a museum. When you walk through the largest door you cannot help but look up at the magnificent dome that soars above you.
From the floor there are magnificent mosaic portraits including the Madonna and child. The upstairs gallery is reached via a switch-back ramp at the northern end of the inner narthex. They must have been ahead of their time as the ramp could be classified as wheelchair accessible. The mosaics on this level are the most impressive and include the Deesis Mosaic (Last Judgment) and portraits of Mary and John the Baptist. There was even some graffiti that tickled Alice's fancy as they had been left inscribed in the marble by Vikings who worked as guards in the 9th century.
After our sightseeing Alice packed a bag and whisked me away to another hotel for a romantic getaway to celebrate nine short years. Along the way we stopped off at Julie and Tony's and they surprised us with an expensive bottle of champagne which I will put to good use. Tony also plied Alice with a cup of Viagra tea which will assist our anniversary night as it helps to clear the sinuses and not what you may have been thinking!
The hotel room that Alice booked at the Great Western Obelisk hotel has been upgraded to a junior suite so we have heaps of room and a very romantic setting. We even have a mini bar which is the first we have seen on our travels in Turkey. The rest of the day is censored material but suffice to say Alice looked gorgeous in her black belly dancer's outfit.
Thursday 4th November – Topkapi Palace
Julie and Tony joined us for the buffet breakfast on the terrace of the Obelisk which overlooks the Marmara Sea. Once again the Turks have mistaken Tony for somebody else as his waiter asked him if he was a bodyguard. Will it ever stop!
After checking back into our original hotel we headed off to visit the Topkapi Palace and joined the masses who wanted to look at a palace that has been the subject of many colorful stories.
Mehmet the Conquerer started work on the palace shortly after the conquest in 1453 and lived there until his death in 1481. Subsequent sultans lived in this rarefied environment until the 19th century.
Topkapi grew and changed over the centuries but the basic four courtyard plan remained the same. This practice allowed the Ottomans to seclude the monarch from the people. The first court was open to all; the second only to people on imperial business; the third only to the imperial family, VIP's, and palace staff; while the fourth was the family quarters.
The second court has a beautiful park like setting with a series of pavillions. This area is also the entrance to perhaps the most famous sight, “THE HAREM”. This was a place where the sultan could engage in debauchery at will. Legend has it that Murat 111 did and managed to have 112 children. It is an extra admission to enter the Harem and highlights include the narrow courtyard of the Black Eunuchs, Sultan Ahmet's Kiosk, the courtyard of the Concubines and the Sultan's Consorts, the Bath House and the Crown Princes apartments.
You enter the Third Court through the Gate of Felicity also known as the Gate of the White Eunuchs. There are many chambers to visit but the most impressive is the Treasury. There was plenty of competition for this room so we dutifully lined up with the hordes. Some of the objects contained here include the sword of Suleyman the Magnificent, Throne of Ahmet 1, Topkapi Dagger and the Spoonmaker's Diamond. This 86 carat diamond has a history of it's own and was originally found in a rubbish dump and purchased by a street pedlar for three spoons.
The Fourth Court has a number of kiosks, swimming pool and all have great views of the Bosphorus and the Marmara Sea. The one place that intrigued us all was the Circumcision Room. The outer walls of the chamber are graced by beautiful tile panels which may have relaxed the young Muslim boys prior to the ritual that admits them to manhood. If only life was so simple today!
After our visit we were wandering up the main drag and spotted a restaurant that was serving food buffet style. Sitting in the hotbox to tempt our taste buds was a big dish of mashed potato. Needless to say we elbowed a few customers out of the way to satisfy our Aussie needs.
Tony and I then ventured off on a Lonely Planet walk that started at the Milion near the Basilica Cistern and finished at the Suleymaniye Camii. The walk took us past a few tombs, mosques, libraries and the grandiose entrance of Istanbul university. It was an interesting walk and a bargain for us as we did not spend anything. The girls headed back to the bazaar for some last minute purchases but were quite restrained as they returned with only a few purchases.
A couple of beers, a light meal and a few songs from Tony was a good end to a busy day.
Friday 5th November – Istanbul Final Day
Our bags needed rearranging so it was around 10.30am before we left the hotel for some more sightseeing. We followed the tram tracks down towards the Golden Horn but needed to take a bladder break at the Golden Arches.
Our goal was the Spice Bazaar which was constructed in the 1600's. There are colorful pyramids of spices and ornate displays of Turkish Delight which maybe where the term eye candy originated. I ended up buying a kilogram of Turkish Delight for 5TL which was substantially less than what the girls paid on our first day in town over near the grand bazaar. On the outskirts of the market there were clothes retailers who unlike The Grand did not hassle you to buy,buy,buy. The prices were excellent as well.
For lunch we walked over the Galata Bridge, past all the fishermen and down to the banks of the Golden Horn. It was a relaxing venue which we shared with Johnathan Livingstone Steroid Seagull. The prawns and fish were sumptuous with the beer and wine flowing freely. A spritely gentleman of 102 had his photograph taken by the girls. The tram ride back to Sultanahmet was packed to the rafters. Alice and I were pressed together so close that it appeared we were engaging in lewd behaviour. Tony managed to clear a path so that we could exit.
Our lift to the airport was early so we had no trouble checking in on time. We boarded our plane on time but all we did was sit tethered to our umbilical cord, the air bridge. Time dragged by slowly as we waited and waited for our plane to roll out onto the runway. To make matters worse I had the only video player on the whole plane that was broken.
After two long hours we were airborne for Dubai. Our pilot advised that there had been a minor technical problem which had been rectified and also heavy air traffic departing Istanbul. This was most likely true as there were a lot of Muslim pilgrims at the airport who were making the Haj to Mecca.
Saturday 6th November – In Transit
Touchdown Dubai 2.45am and we leaped out of our seats and raced for the transit lounge in the vain hope that we would catch our connecting flight to Singapore. Alas, as soon as we approached the transit area they directed us to a counter where we lined up with other passengers whose faces bore a forlorn look. The good folk who work this counter must have one of the world's worst jobs. They take the brunt of all those passengers who want to vent their spleens when a flight is missed. Our guy, clearly harassed, organised a flight at 7.45am for us and went to the trouble of seating the four of us together. Another five hours eating free airport food won't be the death of us. Alice and I lost Tony and Julie so we went off to the Marhabra lounge and wiled our time away.
No delays this time as we plunged down the runway en route for Colombo in Sri Lanka. Colombo!
They forgot to mention that there was a stopover on this flight. Oh well, at least we can say that we visited another country even it is only the tarmac of an airport. When we landed the plane literally bounced down the runway which was followed by loud clapping when we had safely stopped. After the Sri Lankan passengers had disembarked the rear door was opened as they cleaned and fueled the plane. We were able to see the palm trees that lined the edge of the airfield and the light tropical storm cooled th plane down. The plane took on a party atmosphere as passengers,including us, walked up and down the aisles quaffing cans of Heineken beer.On our way again and at last we arrive in Singapore at around 9.15pm a mere eight hours late. It did not take long to clear immigration and retrieve our luggage that had miraculously arrived with us. To add insult to injury as we were walking out through the “Nothing To Declare” zone at customs we were signaled out for a security check of our bags. They were nice and thanked us for our patience. We were going to catch a taxi but the queue was longer than a Brisbane rank on a New Years Eve. Not in the mood to wait for over an hour we paid 50SD for an airport maxi cab that had us at our hotel by 10.30pm. Check in was smooth,the room better than expected and the bed large and comfortable. Sleep came easy and I imagine that there would have been some snoring from our room.
SINGAPORE SLING
The signature tune of the legendary Long Bar of Raffles Hotel is the world famous Singapore Sling. First prepared in the original Raffles Hotel, the seriously fruity drink was invented by barman Ngiam Tong Boon. The popularity of the drink spread throughout the world and although tourists may have tasted the drink in their own country, they still love to sit and sip the drink in the very place that it was invented.
Colour varies with each concoction, but it is essential that the end result is either pink or red to reflect the original belief that it was a woman's drink. Fruit is also vital to the recipe, echoing the 1920's faux-Polynesian craze.
But one of the key, and often overlooked, ingredients in this drink is Benedictine. While the resultant flavour is not overly predominate, it does add a certain 'je ne sais que' that would be totally missing without this secret ingredient. So for a more 'authentic' experience, use:
30ml (1 fl oz) Gin, 15 ml (0.5 fl oz) Cherry Brandy, 120 ml (4.25 fl oz) Pineapple Juice, 15 ml (0.5 fl oz) Lime Juice, 7.5 ml (0.25 fl oz) Cointreau, 7.5 ml (0.25 fl oz) Dom Benedictine, 10 ml (0.35 fl oz) Grenadine, a dash of Angostura Bitters, and garnish with a slice of Pineapple and Cherry.
Sunday 7th November – Orchard Road and Raffles
Just before midday we eventually awoke from our long slumber. Being brave souls and lovers of public transport we jumped on the MRT and headed for the shopping mecca of Orchard Road. As soon as we left the station complex we were engulfed by a sea of shoppers with the majority being young Singaporeans. Being hungry we sought sanctuary from the masses in the first food hall that we saw.
Later we wandered down the length of Orchard Road marveling at the number of mega shopping outlets and the shopping zeal of all the people. I suspect that even hardened veterans like Julie and Alice would need a few days to adjust and decide where they could find the best bargains. As we neared the end of our walk we came across a changing of the guard ceremony near the town hall. The guards and the marching band were immaculate in their white uniforms and shiny spit polished black boots.
Before dinner we headed off to Raffles Hotel which is steeped in history and the epitome of elegant days gone by. Built in 1887, it was considered the place to stay by upper class British colonials and, even today, no visit to Singapore can be considered complete without stopping by.Standing on the corner of Beach and Bras Basah roads in the heart of Old Singapore, it brings in thousands of daily visitors eager to catch a glimpse of a fashionable yesteryear. English writer, Somerset Maugham, once called Raffles Hotel the legendary symbol for "all the fables of the Exotic East". Popularized in the 1920's and onwards by the likes of Noel Coward, Rudyard Kipling, Joseph Conrad and Charlie Chaplin, Raffles guest list reads like a who's who of famous faces. Set in tropical gardens and terracotta-tiled courtyards, the hotel was a British oasis and relaxing in the Long Bar played a quintessential part in this civilized stopover to an unfamiliar, Asian world.
The Long Bar is designed in the style of the old Malaysian plantations of the 1920's, with many drawings of flapper girls and young men in their dinner suits and top hats. You can easily visualise Noel Coward in his smoking jacket, tinkling the ivories of the piano, while he sings songs about mad dogs and Englishmen. Suspended from the ceiling are rows of wicker fans attached to motorized contraptions that turn a pulley and cause the fans to twirl. It's an ingenious early pre-air conditioning method that wafts a cool breeze over you as you sip your drink. In the bar there are bowls of monkey nuts and it is slightly ironic that tradition dictates you drop the shells on the floor when littering is actually an offence in Singapore. Although sparrows fly in from the balcony outside and sit on the floor to eat the shells, wherever you walk there is a fabulous crunching sound, so don't be prudish.
Although many people find that a couple of hours are plenty, and that the prices are high, it wouldn't be the same if you went to Singapore and didn't have a Sing Sling. It's like having a Guinness in Dublin or a Manhattan in Manhattan. Sometimes these things just have to be done even if it did cost 101SD for two slings and two beers. Raffles now holds the record for the most expensive beer that I have ever purchased. It was lucky that Tony and I ate nearly 20SD of monkey nuts.
Julie was keen for some Indian food from little India but as it was raining and taxis scarce Alice and I decided on a steak near our hotel. As is always the case when you have your heart set on something it does not always work out. As we approached the doors they put up the closed sign so we had no choice but to head for the plastic chairs of a local Asian restaurant. It wasn't long before I was sucking back on a big tiger beer and eating some satay and fried rice.
The food was a little bit ordinary but the price was spot on. Tony reported back that they had given up on a taxi and decided to walk to Little India. They found a nice restaurant and had a reasonable curry meal but were a little put out when they noticed a giant rat (not in restaurant). On the way back to the hotel they also saw quite a few homeless people.
Monday 8th November – Singapore Zoo
The weather is still holding up so we decided to jump into a taxi and spend a day at the zoo. This was better and cheaper than booking a tour as we were able to set our own pace and agenda. The first stop was the famous free ranging Orangutans who are so close to being human. There was a new-born who did not venture too far from the protective mum. Next we jumped on a boat and headed to the opposite end of the zoo to view some more exotic animals. My favourite in this area was the colourful Mandrill who sat on a stump scratching himself and snarling at the spectators. He certainly reminded me of a few people that I know! There was a large troop of Chimpanzees who never fail to entertain as well as crocodiles, snakes, komodo dragons, sun bears and proboscis monkeys. If you have never seen a Proboscis Monkey then google it as their beer gut, nose and tail have to be seen to be believed.
After lunch we saw the lions being fed but they were obviously well fed as a crow decided to finish off the leftover meat. As you pass by the White Rhinoceros and the Zebras in their striped pyjamas you are overcome by the stench from the droppings that these animals have peppered the ground with. Other animals include Jemma's favourite the Cheetah, Gnu, Ostrich, Giraffe and the elusive Jaguar. The fragile forest exhibit also housed Ring-Tailed Lemur, Flying Foxes, Butterflies and a range of birds.
To ease our aching feet we jumped on the train foe a couple of circuits before alighting at the Great Rift Valley of Ethiopia exhibit. The main character in this play of animals was the Hamadryas Baboons. There is a troop of nearly 80 baboons, alongside the nubian ibexes, black backed jackals and banded mongooses in this impressive landscaped exhibit. The Pygmy Hippopotamus was also good as the female had just given birth. The new offspring is just one week old and is already learning to hold it's breath and walk underwater. Too round off a very good day we viewed the White Tigers, Malaysian Tapir, African Penguins, Manatee and Gibbons. All in all a day at the zoo brings out the child in you as you marvel at God's handiwork. The Singapore Zoo is world class and definitely deserves a visit.
Back near our hotel Tony and I are having a couple of beers while the girls check out a clothing store they have discovered. I chose a large Baron beer and was surprised when I read the alcohol content was 8.8%. A couple of these and I would be under the table.
Dinner tonight was next door to the hotel on the plastic chairs. Julie and I selected a dish called chili crab which should not have an adverse impact on our stomachs. We made a mess of the table as pieces of crab shell and chili sauce were thrown haphazardly onto the empty plates of Tony and Alice. They were a little more timid and selected a set Indian meal which judging by their plates was tasty.
Tuesday 9th November – Nightmare on “Silk Air” Street
While Tony and I relaxed at the hotel the girls hit the trenches for a last minute bargain at yesterdays shop. They did not disappoint and came back with armfuls of goodies. We checked out just after midday and headed off for the airport. On arrival we discovered that the taxi driver had dropped us at the wrong terminal so we boarded the skytrain to our respective terminals. I gave Alice a kiss goodbye and said I would meet her at the Emirates check in if I could get my bags checked for my flight which was not for another seven hours.
I was feeling pretty good when I approached the counter as they were willing to take my bag. Things turned bad when I was asked if I had a visa. I said I would get one when I arrived in Kathmandu. She replied “Sir, your ticket is for India” too which I replied I don't want to go to India. After some more discussion I worked out that I had booked the flight incorrectly. My mistake was that the Indian city I was booked to travel to had a similar name to Kathmandu's airport. I immediately cancelled the flight and made my way to the Singapore Airlines ticketing office where I took a ticket and waited for my turn. By this time I knew that I would not be catching up with the others for a quiet drink before takeoff. The following section will need updating by Alice.
My turn at the counter soon came around and I was greeted by a very efficient customer service officer. It must have been my lucky day to strike someone who not only knew her job but went out of her way to help the poor misguided fool standing in front of her. She could have left me to my own devices but she rang Silk Air and got them to refund my ticket and reissue a new ticket for Kathmandu. My only problem is that there were no economy seats left for my return flight on 7th December. Now when Alice reads this I know that she will be understanding when she sees I solved the return flight by flying business class at an extra cost of 870SD. Overall my mistake has cost about an extra $400 Australian.
My flight is at 9.00am tomorrow and as I am stuck in Singapore for an extra night I have decided to lash out on some McDonald's before trying to find a hotel room. Surfing the net I tried to find a budget hotel and found a few in the right price bracket. I decided not to book as I was not sure how quick the confirmation would be. Instead I sauntered over to the Hotel Reservations counter who promptly booked a night at the Fragrance Ruby Hotel for 55SD. This was about 10SD cheaper than I could get online.
At the next counter I booked a shuttle bus for 9SD and 30 minutes later I had checked in. The hotel is apparently in the red light district so that would explain the cheap rate. The room is clean, the size is reasonable, there is also a television but the room smells of cigarette smoke even though no smoking rules apply. I have asked for a wake up call as I don't want to miss another flight.
I went for a walk just before dinner and did not see any girls plying their trade. Perhaps I was a little early for ladies of the night. Choosing somewhere to eat was difficult as there are a plethora of restaurants. Ended up having some delicious seafood noodles and a couple of beers before heading back to the hotel. One thing that did strike me was that I was the only white face amongst a sea of Chinese and Indian faces. A little bit of television before a sleep which did not come until way after midnight. I guess that I may have been a little wound up after the days misadventures.
NAMASTE NEPAL
Namaste would have to be one of the world's best greetings. This traditional greeting is not a handshake but a spoken word that is expressed with a slight bow of the head along with clasping ones hands together in perfect form beneath the chin. Nepali people are very respectful to their guests and a guest to a Nepali is a God. This is an old attitude and a tradition in Nepalese society. You just can't help feeling that all the greetings are heartfelt and genuine. I am coming to the end of what has been a great break so I hope you can put with a few more pages of my ramblings.
Wednesday 10th November – Kathmandu
After a really poor night's sleep I was up at six feeling a little bleary and worse for wear and tear. A quick taxi ride to the airport and an even quicker check in allowed me some time to grab some breakfast. Once again I weakened and went for the McDonald's big breakfast with coffee. Whilst there I jumped on the net to find out where I would have ended up in India. Trivandrum is a beach resort area located on the south west bottom of India. Thank goodness I needed a visa as who knows what I would be doing now.The five hour flight went without any hitches. The last 45 minutes is always the best and today was no exception as we had clear skies and a wonderful panorama of the Himalayan mountain range. I did not have a visa prior to arrival as I thought it would be cheaper than in Australia. For once I was correct and the beauty was that this line moved quicker than the line for people with visas. I was out of the airport in under 30 minutes and was hoping that the Hotel Ganesh Himal would be there to pick me up.
Someone grabbed me who had the hotel sign but he had no vehicle. To cut a long story short the hotel does not know David Gould, I guess they don't check random emails. The good news is they have a standard double room which looks and smells better than last night's room. It is also cheaper than the one I booked and they may not charge me for my no show.
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