Kawaku Air Goes Business Class

Tuesday 30th November – The List

To get myself motivated I compiled a 10 point list over breakfast. There are some easy wins on the list like have a shave while the more difficult ones involve a strenuous walk to high view points. Let's see how things work out over my remaining time in Pokhara.

Feeling in the mood for a walk I donned my hiking boots and headed for the other end of Lakeside where I could hire a canoe. I ended up engaging a boat man to paddle me across the lake (one off the list) where I could walk up a steep trail to the Peace Pagoda.

My paddler was an old Nepali of indeterminate age who managed to keep us moving at a steady rate. Close to the shoreline there were a few ducks, water fowl and the most beautiful Kingfisher with light blue wings. After 45 minutes we reached the point where the trail to the Peace Pagoda began. As per our arrangement the boatman was to wait here until I returned from the walk.

The Pagoda can be seen from all over Pokhara as it stands sentinel high on a ridge overlooking the lake and the town. The trail went straight up from the shoreline and I soon felt the strain in my legs (two off the list) as I moved slowly up through the forest.

I encountered a few tourists coming down so I knew I was on the right path. When I reached the small plateau at the top I had great views of the lake, the urban sprawl of the town and of course the snow capped mountain ranges.

The Peace Pagoda is an imposing Buddhist Stupa with a huge gilt edged statue of Buddha as it's centre point. A few of the faithful were circling the structure in a clockwise direction. I was given a strange look as I was going around in the opposite direction.

I stayed 15 minutes before heading back down the lake. All up it is about 45 minutes up and another 25 minutes down if you ever intend a visit. A leisurely paddle back across the lake and past the old palace and we were back.

This little jaunt cost 600RP for the boat hire and was well worth it.

Numbers three and four off the list were quickly deposed of as all I had to do was book a bus ticket back to Kathmandu on the Greenline bus ($US18) and reserve my room at Kathmandu for four nights. The only snag at this point is that I could only confirm the first three nights. I have had no luck in booking a half day of rafting as there is no demand at the moment.

Wednesday 1st December – The Bike Ride

There is a lot of cloud out today so I will not bother trying to arrange a paragliding outing today. A trip on a bicycle seems more in order so I will try and find a half decent one to hire.

As I am starting to look like Santa Claus it was time to knock number five from the list and have a cut throat shave from a Nepali barber. While I was at it the barber gave me a haircut which combined with the shave has made me look ten years younger (56). The only downside is that when he gave me a head massage I could smell something like curry on his hands.

This barber has everything so I hired a bicycle for 100RP for a half day. The bicycle has no gears but that should be no problem as the terrain is reasonably flat around the lake. Strike number six from the list.

With my trusty bicycle and Pokhara map I went off in search of the Himalayan Mountain Museum. A couple of wrong turns down by the airport but I soon found the museum. The entry fee for foreigners is 300RP which is a reasonable price for this facility.

One of the more interesting sections is the different ethnic tribes that inhabit Nepal. The displays show traditional clothing and the various implements and utensils that were/are used in daily activities.

Other sections cover the flora and fauna as well as information on the 14 highest peaks. Also on display is the equipment that was used by some of the earliest mountain expeditions. There is a large area that has nothing on display and sadly the exhibits have not been increased or updated since my last visit with Alice in 2004.

Trusting my sense of direction I headed downhill in search of the Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave. I saw a sign that pointed me through a bazaar area which I wheeled the bike through and came out at a set of steps that led down to the cave entrance. After paying my 100RP entrance fee I descended into the depths of the cave which has some religious importance to the Hindus.

There are two shrines on the upper levels which you cannot photograph. To ensure obedience there are caretakers stationed where you least expect them. A few twists, turns and a climb down an old ladder brings you to the bottom.

This area seems to be connected to the Pardi River as you can hear the water rushing through the deep chasms. It was pretty stuffy, not much light and smelt like my barbers hands so I was glad when I reached the surface. My verdict was that it deserved a look but not highly recommended.

Just across the road was the entrance to Devi's Fall which was named after a Swiss woman who drowned there whilst bathing in the 1960's. The entrance fee was 20RP, a bargain.

The concourse is fenced off but you get a good view of the river flowing over the sandstone rock before it tumbles down the falls. The more interesting part of this area were the number of Nepalese men and women who elected to pee behind the bushes rather than use the toilet at the top of the steps.

Headed back to Phewa Lake and spent a good hour riding along the shoreline. It was good just to watch people going about there daily activities. I knew it was time to return the bike as I was feeling butt sore from the hard seat.

After resting up I went out to meet up with Matt and Sean the two English guys I had met earlier in the trek. It was a good night as we exchanged war stories, drank a few beers and shot some pool. I knew it was time to go when the shutters to the front door came down.

The boys kicked on but I decided it was time for bed. I was led out the back entrance and made my way along the dark and tourist deserted street to my hotel. I jumped the fence as the gate was closed and crawled into bed just before midnight. A very late night by my standards.

Thursday 2nd December – Sarangot (1592 metres)

There are no clouds this morning so I may hire a taxi for a trip up to Sarangot to see if I can get a good view of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna Himalayan Ranges.

I did eventually hire a taxi for 600RP and headed up this rather large hill at about 11.00am. There is a 25RP fee for entering the Sarangot area to help maintain paths and facilities for the area. The taxi drops you off a few hundred metres from the summit and then it is a good 30 minute walk to the top.

Once at the summit it is an incredible view when the clouds are not glued to the side of the mountains. I spent a bit of time watching the paragliders and the eagles riding the thermals. They could have stayed up in the sky for hours if they had wanted. That little trip made number seven off the list.

Number eight on the list was a massage so late in the afternoon I scheduled an hour's appointment.

I went for a trekkers special at the cost of 1400RP which is expensive by Nepal standards. The massage establishment is recommended by the Lonely Planet so that may explain the high price.

The massage was delivered by a young Nepali man who was quite vigorous with his technique. I think he may have worked out a few kinks and replenished some of the missing oil from my dry skin.

My last night in Pokhara was a quiet one. Just a light feed and a beer with the English before hitting the sack.

Friday 3rd December – Back to Kathmandu

Up nice and early to catch the 8.00am to catch the more upmarket Greenline bus to Kathmandu.

The bus itself is up to expectations with comfortable seats and plenty of leg room. We departed on schedule and made good time before our first toilet break. A large blanket of fog blocked out most of the scenery. We pulled up for lunch at the Riverside Hotel which is on the Kathmandu side of Mugling just before 11.00. The food was included in the ticket price and was quite good.

On our way again and we were making good time when the bus curse struck again. About 90 minutes out from Kathmandu the traffic just stopped. After a 30 minute delay we started crawling up the mountain. I did not see any signs of an accident but there were a number of broken down vehicles which did reduce the road width to one vehicle.

When we reached the top of the range and with the Kathmandu Valley below I estimated that we had lost about 2.5 hours. I was in good spirits and then the traffic stopped again.

We stop-started our way into the valley for the next 3 hours. To amuse myself I started reading the names on the trucks heading in the opposite direction. The one I liked best said “Road King – No Time For Love”.

When we eventually cleared the traffic I could only surmise that It was a traffic policeman at the one key intersection that caused the problem. At just before 8.00pm we pulled into the bus terminal and ended our 12 hour bus trip. At least I have a room booked and a refreshing shower beckons.

I shared a taxi with two Aussie girls who are also staying at the hotel.

I decided to have a cup of coffee on the house prior to checking in which proved to be a poor decision. When I had finished the night clerk sheepishly informed me that there were no rooms left but one would be available in the morning.

That was all I needed after the horror bus trip. They did help me carry my bags to another establishment that they are affiliated with called the Rosebud Hotel. I now feel like an extra in the great Orson Wells movie “Citizen Kane”. The room is small but clean and after stowing my bags I went out for a meal and a beer. Back at the hotel I chanced a shower in the dark as there is no electricity due to load shedding. The one moment of joy was that the shower was hot.

Saturday 4th December – Find a New Hotel

My room faces the street so I expected a little bit of noise, especially from barking dogs. They did not disappoint and woke me up around 3.30am. After that I could hear people banging what sounded like plastic and also the early risers on their way to work. Just to finish me off there were pigeons on the balcony cooing non-stop.

Daylight please do not tarry so that I can escape this nightmare.

The first hotel that I tried was called the Tibet Guesthouse. The room that they showed me had a television, wardrobes, chairs and supposedly 24hour electricity and hot water. The price was $US20 and the location is down a dead end street so the noise should not be an issue. I had not eaten breakfast so I paid the 300RP ($4.50) and took advantage of the buffet.

After filling up on food and a few cups of coffee I went back to the Rosebud and checked out. They were willing to go the extra yard to retain my patronage but my mind was made up because I did not want another early morning of pigeons.

After checking in to my new digs I decided to venture out for a little shopping. I managed to relieve my wallet of at least 10000RP on some small items like DVD's, woolen beanies and pashminas. All that shopping and associated bargaining has worn me out.
After a small meal of pizza It is off to bed with a good book.

Sunday 5th December – Mountain Flight

My early wake up call at 5.20am startled me out of a deep sleep with no disturbing annoyances to wake me up throughout the night. I am up early as I have booked a morning mountain flight which is due to take off at 7.00am.

The taxi dropped me at the airport at around 6.30am which I thought would give me plenty of time. I was right for once as 7.00 came and went. Luckily I had packed a book so I was able to wile away the time in the freezing departure lounge. Just after 8.00 our Guna Airlines flight bounced down the runway and lifted us off towards the Himalayas.

The aircraft only had two seats in each row which meant everyone on board had a view of the mountains.

The mountain range extended from Langtang to Makalu with the two biggest being Everest (8848m) and right next door Lhotse (8516m). One of the highlights was being invited up to the cockpit where the pilot pointed out Everest for me. The odd thing was at the angle I was looking from made it seem smaller.

All too soon (45 minutes) the flight was nearing the end and I had to resist the temptation to buy the Guna Air Everest T-Shirt.

After a very late breakfast I decided to visit the Monkey Temple. My first thought was to hire a taxi but I ended up in a rickshaw as I thought this would allow me to see more of Kathmandu.

The rickshaw has no gears and my driver pedaled and weaved his way through the traffic. We passed over one river which smelt and looked toxic as it appeared to be a dumping ground for the city's waste. When we arrived at a steep hill I had to alight and assist the driver (my choice) to push the rickshaw to the top.

The steps leading up to the temple cover about three tiers and a very steep and high. There were quite a few monkeys at the base of the steps all on the lookout for a free feed. They did not bother me but I had to run the gauntlet of salesmen on one level prior to beggars on the next who were mostly women with babies.

I passed quite a few Nepali's who were struggling their way to the top. Paying a 200RP entrance fee entitled me to a terrific view of Kathmandu and a good look at all the shrines and temples. In one of the trees there was a big flock of buzzards nesting.
There were still plenty of monkeys with young babies hanging around but one of the more disturbing sights was the number of sick looking dogs. Going back down the steps I slipped but just managed to avoid a nasty fall not to mention embarrassment.

My rickshaw driver waited for me and pedaled, with a little help from his friend, back to the hotel.

The afternoon and evening was spent relaxing, shopping, eating and drinking not necessarily in that order.

Monday 6th December – Shopping

A rather late start today as I just lounged about after breakfast reading a book and generally being lazy. I finally motivated myself for a few hours and just browsed through a few bookshops and stores.

A lot of time was also spent declining offers of assistance, step into my shop and hashish. I read in the paper today that a dumb Polish guy was picked up at the airport trying to smuggle out six kilos of hashish. What was even more stupid was that the plane was headed for Bangkok. Ah well, some people will get banged up abroad.

I did manage to purchase a couple of books and some Chinese ripoffs of popular television series such as America's Next Super Model. As usual I had my farewell meal at the Everest Steak House which was delicious and superbly complemented by two Everest beers.

Tuesday 7th December – Singapore

I was awake quite early this morning most likely due to the fact that I have to pack my bags for my flight to Singapore. At least I will not be traveling via India! Before settling my bill I will have to make a short trip to the ATM as I don't want to pay a 3% surcharge for the privilege of using my credit card.

Given that I was leaving for the airport a little before 11.00 I did not expect to be caught in a traffic jam. My resourceful taxi driver knew I did not want to be late so he took a back road and then scampered through a dusty bus terminal. We ended up avoiding a small delay and arrived with time to spare.

The Kathmandu terminal is always a chaotic scene as there is insufficient space to cater for all the departing passengers. Never worry though as there is always a handful of Nepali's who specialize in managing tourists through the minefield.

My first helping hands took my luggage and guided me to the security check-in where he said goodbye and relieved me of 100RP.

At security I had to open up the big back-pack as they had seen a mysterious package inside. Luckily for me I am not Polish and all they discovered was Jemma and Telissa's TV-DVDs. One good thing however is that there was no departure tax to be paid and so I now have just over 2000RP to splurge on another trip?

Never to fear after security another stepped in and with the help of another guided me to the Silk Air counter. After thanking them for their help and donating another 100RP each I headed for the immigration counter and another security check.

I then headed for the sanctuary and comfort of the business class lounge. Oh, those poor plebs below do not know what they are missing out on! Plush carpet, clean toilets, good food and drink and a view of the monkeys that inhabit the upper echelons of the airport.

I don't think I have ever seen monkeys at an airport before, although I have seen quite a few galahs.

I headed for the departure gate about twenty minutes prior to departure and joined another line for a security check. In Nepal there is a separate line for men and women as you can only be patted down by the same sex.

I did not have to hang around the departure lounge as they were already boarding the flight. Ah, I thought perfect timing. I could not have been further from the truth as I think the traffic delays I encountered had an impact on other travelers. Eventually, we took off for Singapore only one hour late.

At least in business class I could knock back a cheeky little French red.

Flight time from Kathmandu to Singapore is 4.5 hours and I must say that it was highly enjoyable, shades of Jane Hornibrook's trip to Japan.

The customer service that I received was exceptional. After my meal I sat back and relaxed with a few Brandies and contemplated life after business class. One of the other joys of not traveling cattle class is the priority treatment you receive.

First off the plane, no queue at immigration and your baggage is first on the carousel. After expediting myself through customs I went to the hotel reservations counter and picked up a room at Hotel 81, Geylang for $S50. A quick taxi ride and I was checked into my hotel before 10.00pm. A couple of Carlsberg beers from the 7/11 store and a little television finished my day off.

Wednesday 8th December – Goin' Home

I was really surprised at how good my room was given the price I paid. It was not large but was clean and comfortable and did not smell of cigarette smoke. Although not in the heart of Singapore it is only a ten minute walk to a MRT station.

I hit the streets a little after eight in search of breakfast. At this juncture in life I still cannot do an Asian breakfast but I did manage to find a place that did boiled eggs, toast and coffee. With a couple of hours to kill I just hung around my room watching Star movies.

My trip to the airport was uneventful but I did manage to tell the driver the wrong terminal. It was not a problem as I had plenty of time and could catch the skytrain to terminal 1. As I was early check -in was a breeze so I headed for the Emirates lounge to wile away a couple of hours before take off. Oh, I forgot to mention that I spent a few miles (thanks Alice) and upgraded to Business Class.

The lounge here at Singapore is beautifully decorated and you can also take a shower if required to freshen up. I however am content to sample some of the fine food and quaff a couple of glasses of champers prior to flying home into the arms of my loved ones.

Flying Emirates business class obviously has a few perks like priority luggage, fine food, wines etc however I now understand why Brian Bothwell does it on every trip between Brisbane and Dubai. Those reclining seats just keep folding down into a comfortable bed and a mattress is provided on request. It is an expensive hotel room but it is definitely worth it. I did manage to watch a couple of movies and work my way through the range of wines on offer, including the port.

Thursday 9th December – Home

Touch down Brisbane 12.50am. No queues, no delays and I was out through customs within twenty minutes of landing.

It was great to walk out and have Alice, Jemma and Telissa waiting for me. I have missed them and a big hug was in order. It is now back to reality and work next Monday.

I hope you all enjoyed my ramblings, so until next time safe travels, a Merry Christmas and great 2011.

The End of the Road

After having a cup of Lemon Tea and some soup I was feeling a little better so I washed my socks and jocks again. Lost a fair amount of dirt but my hands froze in the water. Seeing I was on a cleaning rush I tried for a shower but that was a mistake. I dabbed under my arms and washed my face before calling it quits.

Went for a walk through the village and saw a number of shops selling trekking gear, so I might make a purchase because it is really cold. There were a number of bakeries selling delicious looking treats but I don't know how long they have been sitting in the display case. There are about three internet cafes so even though the rates were expensive I rang my darling wife to let her know that I was still alive and to forward the latest installment.

Back at the hotel I was so cold that I emptied my backpack to find my long johns and gortex jacket. I'm feeling a bit brave so I ordered a Yak steak for dinner. It came on a sizzling platter with chips and was tender with a good taste. Netre seconded an extra blanket for me so at last I am nice and warm.

Thursday 18th November – Manang Rest Day

Woke up feeling pretty good with no ill effects from the Yak steak. No sun out this morning and it looks like it is snowing on the peaks. I need to go for a hike uphill today with my guide. The idea is too trick the body with the altitude by going up to a higher height and then back down again. This is one tactic to prevent acute mountain sickness (AMS) which has caused a few deaths and severe illness in this area.

We headed out of town at around 9.00am and were accompanied by a blanket of cloud. As we left the township we passed many Buddhist prayer wheels which are common in the area. It was all uphill and I was not out of breath which is good. After about 30 minutes it started to snow lightly.

Another first! As we continued uphill we passed herds of goats and a few cows and horses. I don't know what sustains them as there is virtually no grass in this very lunar like landscape. The snow started getting heavier and I was forced to put on some wet weather gear. I am concerned if this continues as it may make the high pass unsuitable to go over and I assume that there is much more snow at an altitude of over 5400 metres.

We are due to make our attempt to go over the pass in three days time so I have said a little prayer to God to assist me in my dream of completing the circuit. It continued to snow until about lunch time and I have seen a small patch of blue sky. Time will tell.

This afternoon I'll just relax and go for a short walk around Manang. After dinner I will spend a little time sorting out my kit as I need all the warm weather gear near the top of the bag. I don't envisage that I'll be having a wash for a few days but in this cold I am not sweating.

Friday 19th November – Yak Kharka (4018m - 9km)

I decided on another Yak Steak for dinner last night which may be the last time I eat it. Also had a reasonable sleep and probably snored. Headed off at around 8.15 for Yak Karka and the first section to Ghusang was quite steep. I was struggling for air on the slopes once again. At least today the weather was reasonably fine with only a few spots of snow. Along the way we had some good views of Chulu West (6419m) and Chulu East (6429m). There were also a couple of eagles flying up high on the thermals. We reached Yak Kharka at 11.45am and settled into the Thorung Peak Hotel. The rooms are basic and I can assure you very cold.

After lunch I joined three French people and climbed the hill behind the hotel. The idea again was to get to a higher altitude and then come back down. It was very steep and we passed a small herd of grazing Yaks. They are very timid and bolt as soon as you get too close for a photograph.

As we went higher I thought we might see the Von Trapp family singing the Sound of Music. We eventually called it quits and made our way back down before it became too cold. I have holed up in the restaurant as they have a fire fueled by Yak sh..... At least I am feeling warmer in this environment. I'll hang out here until after dinner and then hit the sack for another early night.

Saturday 20th November – Thorung Phedi High Camp (4925m - 8km)

For breakfast this morning I had the light trekkers feed of tea, toast with honey, fried potato and two boiled eggs.. I pocketed the eggs for later and start off with Netre just after 8.ooam.

The trail up to Ledar (4200m) was a gentle slope and I had no difficulty walking. My breathing although short is a lot better today as I'm not gasping for air. Just prior to reaching the suspension bridge which leads you into Ledar , Netre pointed out two wild alpine deer on a nearby ridge.

At Ledar I took the opportunity to fill my water bottle at the safe water station. The last section into Thorung Phedi (4450m) was a lot steeper and harder but the amazing scenery helped to keep me going.

Once again I had the Garlic soup for lunch to ward off the possibility of sickness and vampires. I'm lucky that no one is sharing close quarters with me because I must reek of garlic. Originally we were going to stay overnight at Thorung Phedi and head for the high pass at 3.00am. This plan changed when the group that I have been walking with since Manang decided that they would bivouac at the High Camp.

The walk up to High Camp is very steep and just under 500 metres higher. It was a matter of putting one foot in front of the other and sucking in the big ones. After about one hour (1.00pm) and a lot of huffing and puffing we reached the camp. My immediate thought was that I was glad that I did not have to do that section at three in the morning. When we were given the key to room 220 I collapsed on my skinny bed with the thin mattress. After a while I roused myself and warmed my bones in the afternoon sun.

Relaxed and brimming with energy (not) I walked up to the top of a nearby knoll (5000m) to take in the majesty of God's work. The mountains are so close and they seem to surround you. Back down and the sun has disappeared behind one of the peaks. The temperature is so cold that I cannot help but shiver.

Back to my room to rug up and take some Panadol, Diamox and some tissues for my runny nose. I have also been sneezing uncontrollably. I hope it is only the high altitude causing this and not the onset of a head cold.

I found a place by the oven to keep warm but some Japanese women in a Down Jacket just planted herself at my back and stole my warmth. If I was not such a nice person, I would have thrown her off the mountain.

It will be another early night as there is absolutely nothing to do but sleep and stay warm. A cup of black tea and a feed of Dal Baht and it is off to bed.

Sunday 21st November – Thorung La Pass (5416 metres - 14km) and Muktinah (3760 metres)

During the night I had to get up twice for the toilet and that was when I could hear the wind howling down the mountain. When Netre woke me at 3.45am I just put on the rest of my clothes like a zombie and packed my bag. By 4.00am we were over at the restaurant having a cup of tea with all the other mad hatters.

There were quite a few sensible ones who remained in bed. When we set off at 4.15am it was dark and the wind was howling with a vengeance. My fingers, nose and lips felt like they were frozen as we slowly made our way upwards. Netre held the torch and lit the path so that I would not stumble over any loose rocks. The wind kept buffeting us but we trudged on.

I can say it is a real challenge to suck in oxygen at this altitude because your lungs are operating at around one third capacity.

Although I was getting only short breaths my breathing was not laboured. You just have to take very short, slow steps and keep moving. After a number of false summits we finally reached Thorung La Pass (2.5 hours) which is the highest pass in the world. The wind was even stronger here and it was freezing. It was time to take the all important photograph so I whipped off my glove and presto the battery was flat.

I took shelter from the wind inside a small teahouse that operates in season and ordered a cup of tea for 100RP. I tried changing the battery but still could not get enough power to operate it. You will just have to believe me!

Started heading down to Muktinah at 7.15am on what is probably the hardest section. It is 1656 metres down a path that is mostly steep with a lot of loose gravel which could easily cause a fall. It was getting colder and my ears, fingers and toes felt like ice.

After about 30 minutes I started to get some feeling back as did Netre who did not have an adequate jacket. By this time I could start to feel the pain in my quads, gluts and knees and Muktinah was nowhere in sight. The landscape s still spectacular and has a Tibetan feel to it. Just a lot of rock, not much greenery and a little snow.

After one hour my toes began to hurt from my feet sliding forwards in my boots. I really had to slow the pace otherwise I would have done some real damage. I did not bring much water and I was beginning to feel dehydrated when a few teahouses came into view. I quickly ordered a litre of water and felt a lot better after drinking half a bottle.

Kept going down for another hour before we reached the outskirts of Muktinah. There are a number of large monasteries in the area and you get great views of Nilgiri (7061m) and Dhaulagiri (8172m). I barely gave them a glimpse as all I want to do is get to a guesthouse and remove my boots to inspect the damage.

You could not imagine my chagrin when we walked right through the centre of town to the very last hotel. My feet were aching and I just wanted to stop. We ended up at the Hotel Dream Home which promises a hot shower and a power socket to recharge the camera batteries. My room on the third floor has an excellent view of the mountains and is quite pleasant.

The first order of business was to try out the shower which was gas operated. The water was just warm enough to allow me to wash my hair and the other nooks and crannies. while I was charging the batteries I went down and had lunch on the sunshine patio. It was great with no wind and all that sunshine on my back to warm me up.

After a couple of hours I returned to my room just to relax as I do not have enough energy to go wandering around town. I have given my toenails a clipping and both big toes have coped a hammering If they are still sore in the morning I'll try a few bandaids as we have another day of downhill trekking.

I must have been in the room for a while as Netre came and got me for dinner. They had some coals burning under the table which made it very pleasant. I tried a pizza for dinner and it was edible but not what you would call great. Went back to my room at 7,15pm and as I walked up the steps I could really feel it in my legs. I think that I would rather go uphill than downhill when it is of that distance.

Monday 22nd November – Jomson (2720metres - 19km)

It is supposed to be a six hour walk to Jomson and it is down another 1040 metres so it is going to be another 8.15am start.

Prior to leaving I applied a couple of heavy duty band-aids to both my big toes in order to reduce the pain when going downhill. As I was brushing my teeth I glanced in the mirror and too my surprise I noticed that my nose had suffered a little frostbite.

The trail was a combination of both trail and road and when a 4x4 went past it was a matter of covering your face so that you did not swallow mouthfulls of dust. In short time we passes the villages of Jharkot (3550m) and Khingar (3280m).

There is not a lot of vegetation but I suspect that in summer the area would be a little greener. As we were approaching Kagbeni (2800m) my feet started to hurt but the band-aids have assisted in that big descent.

At Kagbeni I gave them a rest while having a cup of tea. It was too early for lunch so we headed to the next village of Ekle Bhatti (2740m). Lunch took a little over one hour which really rested up my feet.

The walk into Jomsom followed the Kali Gandaki river and I saw a few interesting sights apart from the panorama. One was the head of a Yak with the horns intact resting on a pole. The other was a shepherd with a big herd of sheep coming down from the high pastures to the river. I also saw some locals fossicking for Ammonite Fossils in the dry section of the riverbed.

We reached Jomson which is the administrative centre for the Mustang region at around 2.15pm. All up I think the 19km took about 4.75 hours. The guides have picked out the Hotel Majesty and I could not be happier. The room comes equipped with it's own bathroom and western toilet and has three beds with doonas. I won't have to break out the sleeping bag tonight and I can order a big pot of tea without the fear of having to go outside for a toilet break.

Another bonus is that I have a television so I will be able to watch all the latest Bollywood movies.

After a nice hot shower I went for a walk around town mainly to buy some Vaseline for my chaffed thighs. There are a few nice hotels, bakeries, coffee shops and internet cafes. I tried one but there was no connection available at the time. The wind was starting to howl so I hightailed it back to the hotel and had a nice cup of tea in the warmth of the dining room. How very English of me.

All in all I'm glad that I did not decide to press on for another two hours to the village of Marpha. I have to remember that I'm not in the Great Race and that I should take my time and enjoy everything around me.

Tuesday 23rd November – Kalopani (2530 metres - 23km)

Last night I broke my no alcohol rule by having a a glass of the local apple brandy. A couple more of those and I would have been under the table. In terms of television I found an American movie to watch starring the "I'm not fat", Stephen Segal. Nothing like a bit of blood and guts to put you off to sleep high in the Himalaya's .

Most people are not walking the section between Jomson and Tatopani as they are opting for a bus or a flight back to Pokhora. As I would like to complete the majority of the trip on foot I have decided that I would not join the masses and instead walk the 23km to Kalopani.

We hit the road just after 8.15am under an overcast sky which was hinting at rain. I think that Netre would have been happier sitting on a bus than lugging my bag. The one good thing about the overnight rain is that there will be no dust from the vehicles traversing the road. The road/trail continues to follow the Kali Gandaki river which at the moment is not in full flow.

Consequently there are wide expanses of exposed small boulders that form the base of the river's bed. We reached the village of Marpha (2670m) which is famous for it's apples after about one hour. There were also a lot of cultivated fields and livestock.

The next village was Tukuche (2590m) which operates a distillery for making apple and peach brandy. There is also a Buddhist Gompa and a couple of nice lodges. Continuing on after a short rest we came to the joint villages of Kobang (2560m) and Larjung (2550m) where we broke for a well deserved lunch.

I must say that I enjoyed the walk as the scenery was quite good and we were able to leave the road in places. I met up with two English lads in their twenties and spent a bit of time talking with them as we walked. We appear to be the only ones on the trail at present.

After lunch we crossed a very wide area of the riverbed and then traversed a suspension bridge that took us away from the road and put us on the old trail that I last walked in 1992. This section took us through the world's deepest gorge which I think is called the Kali Gandaki and is over 8,000 metres deep.

We passed a number of small farms and houses before reaching Kokhethanti (2545m). These areas now seem to be in a bit of a time warp as they do not get the same numbers of trekkers that they used to. Kalopani could be seen in the distance and after crossing an old wooden suspension bridge we reached the outskirts of the village. Kalopani is situated in a narrow valley surrounded by pine trees with the river hugging the edge at the lowest point.

Our lodgings for tonight are at the See You Lodge which was recommended to us by a German couple that we met heading towards Jomson. I have gone upmarket for the attached bathroom again and managed to have the price reduced from 500 RP to 400RP which is about six dollars.

Apart from not having a television this is the best room so far. I have a double bed and they even supply towels. The owner was nice and recommended that I use the common shower that operates on gas as my bathroom operates on solar power – no sun today. It was a relief to pull off the boots after six hours of walking. I have a couple of small blisters on my second toes which

I suspect were caused from rubbing on the big toe band-aids. I may have reassess my no bus policy for a short section. The shower exceeded expectations and was the hottest that I have had so far whilst trekking. I may be clean but the clothes I have to put back on are getting a little high. The owners of this hotel have done a good job by putting in decent fittings including an ar... shower and also a beautiful little garden full of Marigolds and other flowers.

Wednesday 24th November – Tatopani (1190 metres - 20km)

Last night was a big one as during my dinner we started drinking apple brandy. What started out as one glass bought by John a solo retired traveler from Alaska turned into three bottles. It was a good night but in the end I had to farewell John and the two young English guys (Rob and Chris). I woke up remarkably well and could enjoy the wonderful view from my bedroom. Chris on the other hand learned a valuable lesson which was not to mix beer and brandy. He had a nasty reaction and managed a projectile vomit that made a mess of his room and the patio below. At breakfast John treated me to a couple of cups of filtered coffee from the brew that he had brought with him.

The sun is out today and I was up early enough to see the rays of light glistening off the tips of the peaks while the rest of the mountains and valley were draped in shadow. Did not hit the trail until a very late 9.15am. The reason for the late start was that Netre and I were going to walk three hours to Ghasa (2010m) and then catch one of the many buses from there to Tatopani.

As we left Kalopani we had great views of the Dhaulagiri Ice Fall and Mt Dhaulagiri the 7th highest mountain on the planet. Directly opposite was Annapurna 1 and at 8091m is ranked number ten.

The walk itself was not to taxing as it was mostly downhill and did not always follow the gravel road. At one stage I saw a large Languor monkey lope across the trail before disappearing into a thicket of trees. We had made pretty good time and reached Ghasa at 11.30am. After completing the necessary formalities at the ACAP checkpoint we walked down to the bus stand.

There were heaps of buses at the terminal so we made inquiries about the next departure. Typical of all plans that I make relating to public transport in Nepal this one failed. The reason there were no departures was that there were not enough passengers. You mean two does not constitute a load!

There was a bus due from Jomson within the next hour so we decided to sit around and wait. Much to my surprise it arrived 15 minutes later but it was full and could not take us. Well I guess it was back to Shank's pony. I don't think Netre was too happy with the buses.

After Ghasa you can break away from the road and follow the old trail for about five kilometres but we opted for the road to save time. As there were no buses using the road it was a relaxing and enjoyable walk.

In this section the river sounds like thunder as it plummets down a narrow gorge. You can literally see the water boiling as it swirls around huge boulders. We had a ten minute rest at Kabra (1615m) to ease my aching feet. Not long afterwards I ran into the English lads who had caught a bus Ghasa and were now walking to Tatopani. They were breaking for lunch but I wanted to kick on to nearby Dana (1440m).

Finally took a break at 2.00pm and was glad to remove my boots and rest. A close inspection of my feet revealed another small blister under my toes. Some quick maintenance work with the band-aids and I'm as good as gold, sort of. A bowl of fresh tomato and onion soup, a mandarin and a forty minute break has revived me enough for the final push to Tatopani. Took a detour off the road to walk through the old village of Dana.

It was well worth it as I was able to watch some Nepali men ploughing their fields with water buffaloes whilst the women tended the crops. There were also lots of fruit trees and vegetables being grown. After eating a bit of Nepali powder that was generated by the buses returning to Jomson I staggered into Tatopani just before 4.00pm. What was supposed to be an easy day had turned into a 6.5 hour walk.

I was keen to stay at the Dhaulagiri Lodge where Alice and I stayed in 2004 as the facilities were quite good. The first room that I was shown was very tired, barren and smelt dank. I was shown a more expensive room which was a big improvement but it was also tired. They did not want to budge on their room rate of 450RP so I went across the road to the Hotel Himalaya.

The room I was shown here was also tired but the furnishings were okay and they reduced the rate to 250RP. No hot shower today but I managed to give myself a wash before heading down to dinner. My traveling companions from last night are also staying here so I had company over my alcohol free dinner. After todays journey an early night was what the doctor ordered.

Thursday 25th November – Tatopani Rest Day

Tatopani when translated into English means hot water and it is also famous for it's hot spring down on the banks of the river. My plan after breakfast is too wait until the sun envelopes the valley with it's warmth and then head down to the hot springs where I will soak in the recuperative waters. Ahhh!

I eventually made it down to the springs at around 11.00am and spent a couple of hours just relaxing. The water is quite hot and you need to hop out at regular intervals to avoid being a shriveled white prawn. The afternoon was spent at the roof top garden of the hotel just eating and allowing the tiredness in the legs to recede. At around 4.00pm I did the seven minute tour of the village, took a few photographs and chatted to some German trekkers who I had met earlier in the trek.

I even saw a huge vine of chokos growing which evoked some unpleasant childhood memories. I can still picture our vine, loaded with fruit, growing above the laundry gate and being forced to eat copious quantities of boiled, soggy choko for dinner.

Back at the hotel I picked up my laundry which I was too lazy to wash and went up to the garden until the last rays of daylight had disappeared. The only question mark on the day was the weather as it has been overcast since the early afternoon.

Tonight we celebrated Thanksgiving with John the Alaskan. He was buying beers which I declined but I could not say no to the apple crumble and custard for desert. Into bed just after eight as it is back on the road tomorrow for some arduous uphill walking.

I was just about asleep when the contingent of Indians who are staying here decided to call it a night. They have absolutely no idea how noisy they are and must think that they are the only guests. For at least 45 minutes there were banging doors and shouting up and down the hallways which have the most amazing acoustics. I secretly made plans to get even when I awake tomorrow.

Friday 26th November – Shikha (1935 metres), Ghorepani (2860 metres - 14km)

Foiled! The Indians must have organised wake up calls for 5.30am. It started with the management knocking on doors prior to he baton being passed to the guests. The contingent did a marvelous task and the cacophony of noise did not abate until after 7.00am. My conclusion is that the group must be heading to Muktinath for a Hindu religious pilgrimage and they had to be up early to catch a bus. At least I am heading in the opposite direction.

The plan for today is to start later (8.40am) and walk as far as Shikha where I can rest overnight before the last grind up the mountain to Ghorepani. The trek today is all uphill but the one compensating factor is the great views. Not long before we reached Ghara(1700m) Netre pointed out a nice little “weed” crop.

At a rocky outcrop atop a rise we rested and bought water and mandarins. This section of the route was very appealing as we walked under a canopy of trees in what could be described as a temperate forest. The hillsides in the area are under cultivation and the main crop is rice. I finally called a rest stop after 3.75 hours on the topside of Shikha.

Over a bowl of tomato soup I changed plans and decided to plug on to Ghorepani (Horse Water). There were three reasons for the change of plan and they were that the hotel in Shikha looked crappy, my legs and breathing were good and I could arrive Pokhara early. Besides I would have had to sit around all afternoon twiddling my thumbs.

The trail actually gets steeper in this section and it is a matter of putting one foot in front of the other. Just have to ensure that I pace myself and that there is sufficient energy to keep my legs pumping.

The landscape is changing slightly and it is getting colder the higher we go. Obvious Der! After about 80 minutes we passed through the village of Chitre (2390m). There are a few small waterfalls and streams in the area that cascade down the hill over mossy boulders. The Rhododendron Forest adds another dimension to the area with ancient looking trees covered in lichen.

I knew that I was close to Ghorepani when I saw my first blue building. Apparently it is custom or a village rule that all the buildings are blue.

At about 3.45pm we arrived at the Hill Top Hotel which I think Alice and I stayed at in 2004. I remember that we had to keep walking up and that it was the last hotel on Poon Hill. The trek up Poon Hill starts here. Thought I would risk a shower and was surprised when the hot water started to flow.

I am now nice and refreshed as well as clean and can sit back and reminisce about the day. Todays walk distance wise was not as long as some but the altitude increased by slightly over 1700 metres. Some say that this section is the world's longest staircase and the analogy is not far from the truth.

It will be early to bed tonight as I am praying that on this occasion there will be no cloud cover in the morning to spoil the view of the Annapurnas from Poon Hill. The walk up takes a little over an hour and you have to get up at about 5.00am if you want to see the sunrise.

Saturday 27th November – Poon Hill (3193 metres) and Ghandruk (1940metres)

When I looked out the window this morning at 4.30am there was not a cloud in the sky and the stars were shining. With high expectations I jumped out of bed and geared up for the one hour walk up to Poon Hill.

It was an amazing scene with all the headlamps and torches lighting the way up. It looked like a trail of Argentine ants or a Thamel traffic jam due to the high numbers of trekkers heading up.

When we reached the summit I would estimate that there were at least 200 people up there. The walk was worth it as God gave us a beautiful sunrise that highlighted the majesty of the Himalayas.

The camera battery was playing up again but I did manage to take a few photos after removing the battery and warming it up in my hot little hands.

After breakfast it was time to head off in the direction of Tadapani (2630m). The first hour of walking was mostly uphill which was not to bad as we were walking through the Rhododendron Forest which provided shade from the sun.

After passing through the Deurali Pass (3090m) we continued on to the village of Ban Thanti (3180m). From this area we had great views of Annapurna South (7219m) and the sacred mountain Machhapuchhre (6997m). This mountain is also known as Fishtail and by law has never been climbed. It was at this point that the trail became a bit of a nightmare.

The map indicated that it was a steep trail and it was. For the next two hours it was all down and that played havoc with my knees and toes. The only respite was when I stopped to admire the small streams that were tumbling down the adjacent gorge. I was so happy when the trail started going up again towards Tadapani. Thirty minutes traveling up was like heaven. I gave the feet a good rest over lunch in order to prepare myself as it is another 700 metre descent to Ghandruk.

The first 45 minutes of this section was reasonably flat as we walked through the forest. It was like walking through the forest on Lamington plateau. There were ferns, moss, decaying leaf matter, numerous small streams and the sunlight barely penetrated the leafy canopy above us.

As we approached the top of a small hill there was a troop of at least 20 Langur monkeys. They were all very skittish but we managed to get close to a large male who was eating the moss from the base of a tree. As we approached he scampered up the tree and joined a couple of the younger ones. As soon as we passed he came back down and went to the moss delicacy that he had been sucking on earlier.

After that short interlude it was back to the knee jarring descent. On the outskirts of Ghandruk I was lucky enough to spot two Himalayan Hens. They are like a big chook with bright markings almost like a peacock. The village of Ghandruk is quite large and well laid out. The path down is well maintained and bordered by a stone wall on both sides.

Tonight we are staying at the Trekkers Inn Hotel and again I was lucky enough to have a hot shower.

Afterwards I applied liberal amounts of Tiger Balm to my knee joints and calves in the hope that it will relieve some of my aches and pains. Unfortunately my big toes have suffered again and they will be in need of a couple of band-aids tomorrow.

Over dinner I chatted to a British couple and a Dane who also had similar complaints regarding the downhill sections. Hopefully a good nights rest after walking for over eight hours will put me in good stead for tomorrows downhill challenge.

Sunday 28th November – Pokhara (820 metres)

Woke up feeling reasonably pain free so I guess Tiger Balm really does work or it maybe just a placebo affect. Anyhow we set off after breakfast on the final big descent (720m) of the trek. Ghandruk is probably the largest and cleanest village that I have encountered in all my travels of Nepal.

The paths are well maintained and the descent in this part at least is not as hard as yesterday. There is another trail on the outskirts of the village which drops rather steeply into a valley and then ascends to the village of Landruk (1565m).

This is an alternative route to Pokhara which I will not travel as it adds another five hours to the walk. Both of these routes are the gateway to the Annapurna Sanctuary which is one of the most popular treks in Nepal.

Further down the trail I started to encounter a few Donkey and human trains hauling goods and supplies to the villages that support the ABC trek. I noticed one porter carrying a huge load that included a television and it wasn't an LCD model.

The only problems with the donkeys is that you have to be on the inside as they could easily knock you over the edge of the trail. You also have to be careful where you step as they leave a lot of waste.

I made good time and finished the descent after 1.75 hours at the village of Syauli Bazar (1220m). From here it was a relatively flat walk following the Modi River. An hour later we arrived at Birethanti (1025m) which is also serves as the main route to Ghorepani. After lunch it was a short stroll to Nayapul to catch a bus to Pokhara.

When Alice and I traveled this way in 2004 there were only a few buildings in Nayapul and the trail to Birethanti was quite beautiful. Regrettably this area has developed into a shanty town. Unlike Ghandruk, the buildings look like hovels and there is a lot of filth around. A road has been constructed and these structures line both sides all the way to the once beautiful Birethanti.

Enough wingeing, I have a bus to catch! After a ten minute wait a bus for Pokhara arrived. There were plenty of spare seats so I jumped on and thought how good is this. We traveled another 100 metres up the road and the driver pulled over, turned off the motor and went on a thirty minute lunch break.

After all this is Nepal and you just have to go with the flow. A busker took advantage of the break and serenaded us for a few rupees. The bus conductors loaded on a few more people, stacked quite a few bags of rice in the aisle and relieved me of 150RP for the trip. I could have caught a taxi for 1500RP but what would be the fun of that? The journey took about 1.75 hours with only a few stops for extra passengers.

The hotel that I chose is called the Peace Plaza. The deluxe room has a view of the lake and a small balcony where I can catch the afternoon sun and relax with a couple of beers. Tonight I will farewell Netre and shout him a dinner at an upmarket restaurant. I had forgotten how much a hungry Nepali could eat.

He took one look at his half a tandoori baked chicken and decided that he would need a dal baht top up. He stuck with tradition and scooped up his meal using his right hand which is a very effective utensil.

It was a good night and we finished up with Netre shouting me a Nepali whiskey which was quite smooth.

I managed to walk about 220km over 17 days and finished the trek three days early due mainly to a couple of big walking days. The trip is something that I have wanted to do for at least the last fifteen years and can at last cross it off my bucket list.

The journey was a physical challenge which I could not have completed without the aid of a porter. The trek itself takes you through an amazing cultural and geographical landscape which will leave you in awe.

My only tip is - do it soon as the roads that are being built are connecting communities but are altering the fabric of this fantastic area.