Tuesday 30th November – The List
To get myself motivated I compiled a 10 point list over breakfast. There are some easy wins on the list like have a shave while the more difficult ones involve a strenuous walk to high view points. Let's see how things work out over my remaining time in Pokhara.
Feeling in the mood for a walk I donned my hiking boots and headed for the other end of Lakeside where I could hire a canoe. I ended up engaging a boat man to paddle me across the lake (one off the list) where I could walk up a steep trail to the Peace Pagoda.
My paddler was an old Nepali of indeterminate age who managed to keep us moving at a steady rate. Close to the shoreline there were a few ducks, water fowl and the most beautiful Kingfisher with light blue wings. After 45 minutes we reached the point where the trail to the Peace Pagoda began. As per our arrangement the boatman was to wait here until I returned from the walk.
The Pagoda can be seen from all over Pokhara as it stands sentinel high on a ridge overlooking the lake and the town. The trail went straight up from the shoreline and I soon felt the strain in my legs (two off the list) as I moved slowly up through the forest.
I encountered a few tourists coming down so I knew I was on the right path. When I reached the small plateau at the top I had great views of the lake, the urban sprawl of the town and of course the snow capped mountain ranges.
The Peace Pagoda is an imposing Buddhist Stupa with a huge gilt edged statue of Buddha as it's centre point. A few of the faithful were circling the structure in a clockwise direction. I was given a strange look as I was going around in the opposite direction.
I stayed 15 minutes before heading back down the lake. All up it is about 45 minutes up and another 25 minutes down if you ever intend a visit. A leisurely paddle back across the lake and past the old palace and we were back.
This little jaunt cost 600RP for the boat hire and was well worth it.
Numbers three and four off the list were quickly deposed of as all I had to do was book a bus ticket back to Kathmandu on the Greenline bus ($US18) and reserve my room at Kathmandu for four nights. The only snag at this point is that I could only confirm the first three nights. I have had no luck in booking a half day of rafting as there is no demand at the moment.
Wednesday 1st December – The Bike Ride
There is a lot of cloud out today so I will not bother trying to arrange a paragliding outing today. A trip on a bicycle seems more in order so I will try and find a half decent one to hire.
As I am starting to look like Santa Claus it was time to knock number five from the list and have a cut throat shave from a Nepali barber. While I was at it the barber gave me a haircut which combined with the shave has made me look ten years younger (56). The only downside is that when he gave me a head massage I could smell something like curry on his hands.
This barber has everything so I hired a bicycle for 100RP for a half day. The bicycle has no gears but that should be no problem as the terrain is reasonably flat around the lake. Strike number six from the list.
With my trusty bicycle and Pokhara map I went off in search of the Himalayan Mountain Museum. A couple of wrong turns down by the airport but I soon found the museum. The entry fee for foreigners is 300RP which is a reasonable price for this facility.
One of the more interesting sections is the different ethnic tribes that inhabit Nepal. The displays show traditional clothing and the various implements and utensils that were/are used in daily activities.
Other sections cover the flora and fauna as well as information on the 14 highest peaks. Also on display is the equipment that was used by some of the earliest mountain expeditions. There is a large area that has nothing on display and sadly the exhibits have not been increased or updated since my last visit with Alice in 2004.
Trusting my sense of direction I headed downhill in search of the Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave. I saw a sign that pointed me through a bazaar area which I wheeled the bike through and came out at a set of steps that led down to the cave entrance. After paying my 100RP entrance fee I descended into the depths of the cave which has some religious importance to the Hindus.
There are two shrines on the upper levels which you cannot photograph. To ensure obedience there are caretakers stationed where you least expect them. A few twists, turns and a climb down an old ladder brings you to the bottom.
This area seems to be connected to the Pardi River as you can hear the water rushing through the deep chasms. It was pretty stuffy, not much light and smelt like my barbers hands so I was glad when I reached the surface. My verdict was that it deserved a look but not highly recommended.
Just across the road was the entrance to Devi's Fall which was named after a Swiss woman who drowned there whilst bathing in the 1960's. The entrance fee was 20RP, a bargain.
The concourse is fenced off but you get a good view of the river flowing over the sandstone rock before it tumbles down the falls. The more interesting part of this area were the number of Nepalese men and women who elected to pee behind the bushes rather than use the toilet at the top of the steps.
Headed back to Phewa Lake and spent a good hour riding along the shoreline. It was good just to watch people going about there daily activities. I knew it was time to return the bike as I was feeling butt sore from the hard seat.
After resting up I went out to meet up with Matt and Sean the two English guys I had met earlier in the trek. It was a good night as we exchanged war stories, drank a few beers and shot some pool. I knew it was time to go when the shutters to the front door came down.
The boys kicked on but I decided it was time for bed. I was led out the back entrance and made my way along the dark and tourist deserted street to my hotel. I jumped the fence as the gate was closed and crawled into bed just before midnight. A very late night by my standards.
Thursday 2nd December – Sarangot (1592 metres)
There are no clouds this morning so I may hire a taxi for a trip up to Sarangot to see if I can get a good view of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna Himalayan Ranges.
I did eventually hire a taxi for 600RP and headed up this rather large hill at about 11.00am. There is a 25RP fee for entering the Sarangot area to help maintain paths and facilities for the area. The taxi drops you off a few hundred metres from the summit and then it is a good 30 minute walk to the top.
Once at the summit it is an incredible view when the clouds are not glued to the side of the mountains. I spent a bit of time watching the paragliders and the eagles riding the thermals. They could have stayed up in the sky for hours if they had wanted. That little trip made number seven off the list.
Number eight on the list was a massage so late in the afternoon I scheduled an hour's appointment.
I went for a trekkers special at the cost of 1400RP which is expensive by Nepal standards. The massage establishment is recommended by the Lonely Planet so that may explain the high price.
The massage was delivered by a young Nepali man who was quite vigorous with his technique. I think he may have worked out a few kinks and replenished some of the missing oil from my dry skin.
My last night in Pokhara was a quiet one. Just a light feed and a beer with the English before hitting the sack.
Friday 3rd December – Back to Kathmandu
Up nice and early to catch the 8.00am to catch the more upmarket Greenline bus to Kathmandu.
The bus itself is up to expectations with comfortable seats and plenty of leg room. We departed on schedule and made good time before our first toilet break. A large blanket of fog blocked out most of the scenery. We pulled up for lunch at the Riverside Hotel which is on the Kathmandu side of Mugling just before 11.00. The food was included in the ticket price and was quite good.
On our way again and we were making good time when the bus curse struck again. About 90 minutes out from Kathmandu the traffic just stopped. After a 30 minute delay we started crawling up the mountain. I did not see any signs of an accident but there were a number of broken down vehicles which did reduce the road width to one vehicle.
When we reached the top of the range and with the Kathmandu Valley below I estimated that we had lost about 2.5 hours. I was in good spirits and then the traffic stopped again.
We stop-started our way into the valley for the next 3 hours. To amuse myself I started reading the names on the trucks heading in the opposite direction. The one I liked best said “Road King – No Time For Love”.
When we eventually cleared the traffic I could only surmise that It was a traffic policeman at the one key intersection that caused the problem. At just before 8.00pm we pulled into the bus terminal and ended our 12 hour bus trip. At least I have a room booked and a refreshing shower beckons.
I shared a taxi with two Aussie girls who are also staying at the hotel.
I decided to have a cup of coffee on the house prior to checking in which proved to be a poor decision. When I had finished the night clerk sheepishly informed me that there were no rooms left but one would be available in the morning.
That was all I needed after the horror bus trip. They did help me carry my bags to another establishment that they are affiliated with called the Rosebud Hotel. I now feel like an extra in the great Orson Wells movie “Citizen Kane”. The room is small but clean and after stowing my bags I went out for a meal and a beer. Back at the hotel I chanced a shower in the dark as there is no electricity due to load shedding. The one moment of joy was that the shower was hot.
Saturday 4th December – Find a New Hotel
My room faces the street so I expected a little bit of noise, especially from barking dogs. They did not disappoint and woke me up around 3.30am. After that I could hear people banging what sounded like plastic and also the early risers on their way to work. Just to finish me off there were pigeons on the balcony cooing non-stop.
Daylight please do not tarry so that I can escape this nightmare.
The first hotel that I tried was called the Tibet Guesthouse. The room that they showed me had a television, wardrobes, chairs and supposedly 24hour electricity and hot water. The price was $US20 and the location is down a dead end street so the noise should not be an issue. I had not eaten breakfast so I paid the 300RP ($4.50) and took advantage of the buffet.
After filling up on food and a few cups of coffee I went back to the Rosebud and checked out. They were willing to go the extra yard to retain my patronage but my mind was made up because I did not want another early morning of pigeons.
After checking in to my new digs I decided to venture out for a little shopping. I managed to relieve my wallet of at least 10000RP on some small items like DVD's, woolen beanies and pashminas. All that shopping and associated bargaining has worn me out.
After a small meal of pizza It is off to bed with a good book.
Sunday 5th December – Mountain Flight
My early wake up call at 5.20am startled me out of a deep sleep with no disturbing annoyances to wake me up throughout the night. I am up early as I have booked a morning mountain flight which is due to take off at 7.00am.
The taxi dropped me at the airport at around 6.30am which I thought would give me plenty of time. I was right for once as 7.00 came and went. Luckily I had packed a book so I was able to wile away the time in the freezing departure lounge. Just after 8.00 our Guna Airlines flight bounced down the runway and lifted us off towards the Himalayas.
The aircraft only had two seats in each row which meant everyone on board had a view of the mountains.
The mountain range extended from Langtang to Makalu with the two biggest being Everest (8848m) and right next door Lhotse (8516m). One of the highlights was being invited up to the cockpit where the pilot pointed out Everest for me. The odd thing was at the angle I was looking from made it seem smaller.
All too soon (45 minutes) the flight was nearing the end and I had to resist the temptation to buy the Guna Air Everest T-Shirt.
After a very late breakfast I decided to visit the Monkey Temple. My first thought was to hire a taxi but I ended up in a rickshaw as I thought this would allow me to see more of Kathmandu.
The rickshaw has no gears and my driver pedaled and weaved his way through the traffic. We passed over one river which smelt and looked toxic as it appeared to be a dumping ground for the city's waste. When we arrived at a steep hill I had to alight and assist the driver (my choice) to push the rickshaw to the top.
The steps leading up to the temple cover about three tiers and a very steep and high. There were quite a few monkeys at the base of the steps all on the lookout for a free feed. They did not bother me but I had to run the gauntlet of salesmen on one level prior to beggars on the next who were mostly women with babies.
I passed quite a few Nepali's who were struggling their way to the top. Paying a 200RP entrance fee entitled me to a terrific view of Kathmandu and a good look at all the shrines and temples. In one of the trees there was a big flock of buzzards nesting.
There were still plenty of monkeys with young babies hanging around but one of the more disturbing sights was the number of sick looking dogs. Going back down the steps I slipped but just managed to avoid a nasty fall not to mention embarrassment.
My rickshaw driver waited for me and pedaled, with a little help from his friend, back to the hotel.
The afternoon and evening was spent relaxing, shopping, eating and drinking not necessarily in that order.
Monday 6th December – Shopping
A rather late start today as I just lounged about after breakfast reading a book and generally being lazy. I finally motivated myself for a few hours and just browsed through a few bookshops and stores.
A lot of time was also spent declining offers of assistance, step into my shop and hashish. I read in the paper today that a dumb Polish guy was picked up at the airport trying to smuggle out six kilos of hashish. What was even more stupid was that the plane was headed for Bangkok. Ah well, some people will get banged up abroad.
I did manage to purchase a couple of books and some Chinese ripoffs of popular television series such as America's Next Super Model. As usual I had my farewell meal at the Everest Steak House which was delicious and superbly complemented by two Everest beers.
Tuesday 7th December – Singapore
I was awake quite early this morning most likely due to the fact that I have to pack my bags for my flight to Singapore. At least I will not be traveling via India! Before settling my bill I will have to make a short trip to the ATM as I don't want to pay a 3% surcharge for the privilege of using my credit card.
Given that I was leaving for the airport a little before 11.00 I did not expect to be caught in a traffic jam. My resourceful taxi driver knew I did not want to be late so he took a back road and then scampered through a dusty bus terminal. We ended up avoiding a small delay and arrived with time to spare.
The Kathmandu terminal is always a chaotic scene as there is insufficient space to cater for all the departing passengers. Never worry though as there is always a handful of Nepali's who specialize in managing tourists through the minefield.
My first helping hands took my luggage and guided me to the security check-in where he said goodbye and relieved me of 100RP.
At security I had to open up the big back-pack as they had seen a mysterious package inside. Luckily for me I am not Polish and all they discovered was Jemma and Telissa's TV-DVDs. One good thing however is that there was no departure tax to be paid and so I now have just over 2000RP to splurge on another trip?
Never to fear after security another stepped in and with the help of another guided me to the Silk Air counter. After thanking them for their help and donating another 100RP each I headed for the immigration counter and another security check.
I then headed for the sanctuary and comfort of the business class lounge. Oh, those poor plebs below do not know what they are missing out on! Plush carpet, clean toilets, good food and drink and a view of the monkeys that inhabit the upper echelons of the airport.
I don't think I have ever seen monkeys at an airport before, although I have seen quite a few galahs.
I headed for the departure gate about twenty minutes prior to departure and joined another line for a security check. In Nepal there is a separate line for men and women as you can only be patted down by the same sex.
I did not have to hang around the departure lounge as they were already boarding the flight. Ah, I thought perfect timing. I could not have been further from the truth as I think the traffic delays I encountered had an impact on other travelers. Eventually, we took off for Singapore only one hour late.
At least in business class I could knock back a cheeky little French red.
Flight time from Kathmandu to Singapore is 4.5 hours and I must say that it was highly enjoyable, shades of Jane Hornibrook's trip to Japan.
The customer service that I received was exceptional. After my meal I sat back and relaxed with a few Brandies and contemplated life after business class. One of the other joys of not traveling cattle class is the priority treatment you receive.
First off the plane, no queue at immigration and your baggage is first on the carousel. After expediting myself through customs I went to the hotel reservations counter and picked up a room at Hotel 81, Geylang for $S50. A quick taxi ride and I was checked into my hotel before 10.00pm. A couple of Carlsberg beers from the 7/11 store and a little television finished my day off.
Wednesday 8th December – Goin' Home
I was really surprised at how good my room was given the price I paid. It was not large but was clean and comfortable and did not smell of cigarette smoke. Although not in the heart of Singapore it is only a ten minute walk to a MRT station.
I hit the streets a little after eight in search of breakfast. At this juncture in life I still cannot do an Asian breakfast but I did manage to find a place that did boiled eggs, toast and coffee. With a couple of hours to kill I just hung around my room watching Star movies.
My trip to the airport was uneventful but I did manage to tell the driver the wrong terminal. It was not a problem as I had plenty of time and could catch the skytrain to terminal 1. As I was early check -in was a breeze so I headed for the Emirates lounge to wile away a couple of hours before take off. Oh, I forgot to mention that I spent a few miles (thanks Alice) and upgraded to Business Class.
The lounge here at Singapore is beautifully decorated and you can also take a shower if required to freshen up. I however am content to sample some of the fine food and quaff a couple of glasses of champers prior to flying home into the arms of my loved ones.
Flying Emirates business class obviously has a few perks like priority luggage, fine food, wines etc however I now understand why Brian Bothwell does it on every trip between Brisbane and Dubai. Those reclining seats just keep folding down into a comfortable bed and a mattress is provided on request. It is an expensive hotel room but it is definitely worth it. I did manage to watch a couple of movies and work my way through the range of wines on offer, including the port.
Thursday 9th December – Home
Touch down Brisbane 12.50am. No queues, no delays and I was out through customs within twenty minutes of landing.
It was great to walk out and have Alice, Jemma and Telissa waiting for me. I have missed them and a big hug was in order. It is now back to reality and work next Monday.
I hope you all enjoyed my ramblings, so until next time safe travels, a Merry Christmas and great 2011.
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