Spain, Morocco and Moors

Wednesday 30th May – Sevilla

Our train trip this morning departs at the civilized time of 9:20am which gives us time for a leisurely breakfast. Our ticket to ride the rails was a mere 11euro as this train had about 7 stops and only reached speeds of 160kph. We did a last minute reservation at the four star Gran Hotel Lar (45 euro) through the web site booking.com. This is an excellent site for booking hotels in Europe as the rates are always competitive and (cross my fingers) I have never had an issue.

We holed up in our room until late afternoon as it is an incredibly hot day. Even when we emerged it was still a stifling 33 degrees. The queue for the cathedral was quite long so we opted for a visit to the Alcazar which was built by the moors in the 10th century as a palace. This one left the Cordoba Alcazar for dead as it is still in use for the present royal family. It has rooms and decorations from the many rulers who have lived there. The Admirals Room is where Columbus recounted his travels to Queen Isabel and where Magellan planned his circumnavigation of the world.

This evening I have convinced Alice to attend a two hour Flamenco show at a small venue called Los Gallos (27 euro). She was a bit apprehensive but that soon turned to awe as the performers danced, sung and played the acoustic guitar for an energetic two hours. A Canadian girl Lisa who is learning the flamenco was sitting next to us. She explained some of the nuances of the dance and that the two male performers were among the best in Spain. The guitar player had extraordinary long fingers which glided effortlessly over the strings to produce an incredible sound. We both agreed that the show exceeded our expectations and left us with goose bumps. Ole!

Thursday 31st May – Spain’s Biggest Cathedral

Today I am touring alone as Alice is laid up in our hotel room. The Cathedral de Sevilla which is the third largest church in Europe is my destination. The church has a 100 metre bell tower called Giralda but unfortunately it is currently closed for renovations. I took the audio tour which gives a good guide to all the paintings, treasures and chapels. The paintings include works by Sevillia’s two 17th century masters Murillo and Zurbaran.

One of the more interesting sculptures that I came across was the head of John the Baptist depicting what it must have looked like immediately after decapitation. The tombs of Christopher Columbus and his son little Chris are found here in the church. The tomb probably traveled further than Columbus did as it was returned to Sevillia after Cuba gained its independence around 1900. As well as the aforementioned there are also quite a few Catholic cardinals who are interred here.

The treasury contained many valuable items including a crown that sparkles with 11,000 precious stones and the world’s second largest pearl. There are many stained glass windows in the side chapels that depict saints and scenes from the bible. You exit the tour into the court of the orange trees. There is a fountain in the middle that 12th century Muslims stooped at to wash their hands, face and feet before praying. You can still see the irrigation channels for the trees between the bricks.

Alice ventured out in the evening so we took a short walk through the Barrio Santa Cruz district. It was a lot cooler walking through the maze of alleyways that link the various small squares in this district. We then did the busman’s trick and went for a ride on the new tram system. It only has four stops so it was a short journey that terminated in the shopping district at Plaza Nueva. Alice was starting to feel ill again so we only walked the length of the pedestrianized Calle Tetuan. Judging by the look on her face as we passed the many stores I could tell that she was disappointed.

Friday 1st June – Road Trip

Well we have paid our bills and are on our way, just scorched out onto the Sevillia highway, not a care in the world, not a trouble on our mind until I remembered drive on the right side if you want to get there on time! It wasn’t quite that easy to extricate ourselves from Sevillia as we had to work out how to use the GPS that we had purchased in Madrid. Once we had accomplished what should have been an easy task we were on our way but being a little nervous I missed an important turn at a roundabout. With nowhere to turn I heard that infuriating tone emanating from the GPS “recalculating your route”.

Eventually we were out of the city and on a tollway heading for the town of Arcos which is a white hill town in Andalucia. The old town with all the buildings painted white is perched high on a ridge and overlooks the valley.

The driving is relatively easy as the roads are good with the occasional sign warning us to be on our guard for bulls.

At around 1:30pm I was feeling a little tired and hungry so we pulled off at a little town named Bornos. We stopped at the first café we saw and ventured inside. The menus were in Spanish, the owner spoke only Spanish so we ordered using a mixture of pointing and sign language.

We ended up with two beers, two plates of tapas and two coffees. The tapas was a delicious capsicum stuffed with rice, mince and a beautiful sauce that the pint sized mama had whipped up in her spotless kitchen. At an all up cost of 7 euro it was truly a serendipitous moment.

We have decided to travel off the main road and have taken a not so long and winding road, with sparse traffic to the hill town of Zahara. This town with its own castle is high up and overlooks a huge lake. The route we are on is very scenic but gets worse with a series or tortuous switchbacks to the 1700 metre summit of Puerto de Las Palomas (pass of the pigeons). Alice had a few white knuckle moments on the blind corners and narrow roads with a long drop to the valley below. I eased the tension by stopping at a few of the hiking trailheads that lead into the Sierra de Grazalema National Park.

As we drove through the small town of Grazalema it was so beautiful we contemplated staying there for the night. The town of Ronda was only an hour away so we headed out to the main highway and were soon on the outskirts of the town. We programmed the tourist office into the GPS and after a couple of near misses eventually found it. Our aim was to get the address of the Hotel Colon (Alice did not appreciate the name) as the booking.com site had indicated that it had spare rooms. A new address typed in and my nightmare began. The GPS lady had me traveling around in circles, down narrow streets and across pedestrian malls but eventually there it was in front of us, the Hotel Colon.

Alice enquired about the room but alas bookings had been strong and there was no vacancy. It was time to try our second choice which this time we found a little easier. I circled the block as Alice checked out the options at the Hotel Morales. She was smiling, so I reversed into the very small hotel parking space and unloaded our kit. I still had to find the parking area and again I set out into the unknown. After a couple of laps of the block I found it but alas there were no spaces available. I was circling with the other car park vultures when I spotted someone getting into a car. No time to be nice I headed straight to it and indicated that this space was mine.

It was 6:00pm and I was knackered after the tension of the last 45 minutes. I laid down on the bed, moaned a couple of times and pleaded with Alice to buy me a couple of beers. The angel of mercy returned bearing refreshments for her jaded husband. She also likes the town of Ronda so we are now staying an extra night. A walk around town, a look at the view, a late dinner and it is time for bed.

Saturday 2nd June – Help Me Ronda

We are staying in what is known as the new town but it is still very close to the gorge and the New Bridge (Puente Nuevo) which was built between 1751 and 1793. The ravine is approximately 60 metres wide and 100 metres deep and today some extreme sports persons are testing their mettle by canyoning, abseiling, climbing and running in this testing environment.

At the moment we are all churched out so have decided on a walk through the old town to the bottom of the gorge. A couple of blocks downhill and we arrived at the Casa del Rey Moro (House of the Moorish King). Apparently it was never home to any king but it does have a fine garden as well as a mine! The mine is an exhausting series of 240 slick, dark and narrow steps (according to my count) that lead to the floor of the gorge. The Moors cut the staircase into the wall of the gorge to access water when under siege. It was a real thigh master workout. Further downhill was the Old Bridge that was rebuilt in 1616. Now that we had reached the bottom of the gorge we had no option but to go up again. We took a route over the old bridge and ascended via a scenic route on the opposite side of the gorge.

After a beer and a light snack it was time to hit the bullring. Ronda is apparently the birthplace of modern bullfighting and this was the first great Spanish bullring. I expected the ring to be huge but in fact it is quite small holding only 4500 spectators. Alice and I charged out into the centre and then into the museum to look at the vast array of exhibits. It was definitely worth the 6 euro admission charge.

Just prior to sunset we decided to give the legs another workout and took a walk down the opposite side of the new bridge in the old town. Unfortunately, it was a little cloudy so we missed the sunset. We were lucky enough to catch a parade that commenced from an old church and finished on the other side of town. There were horse riders, band and parents marching with their children in honour of Viva la virgin de la Cabeza whatever that means (I suspect it has something to do with the virgin Mary). Dinner at the hard to believe time of 10:00pm was next on the agenda and we sat down to an exceptional meal at Macia’s Restaurant.

Sunday 3rd June – Ronda to Tarifa

Back on the road again today and I have convinced Alice that a little more driving in the mountains would be good for our nerves. With the GPS plugged in we were soon being guided to the white hill town of Benaojan.

The route was quite scenic with great views of the mountains, farmland and wild flowers growing by the side of the road. At Benaojan we programmed in Ubrique and the trouble soon began. Instead of leading us out of town it plunged us deeper and deeper into the narrow streets of Benaojan. An old couple took pity on us and told us in guttural Spanish “how the heck did you get here”. We showed them the GPS unit and they nodded their heads sagely and pointed us back in the direction we had come from. Eventually, with the help of a few others we wound our way out of the labyrinth of narrow lanes and back to the main road. After that episode I felt physically and mentally drained. I stopped listening to that invisible woman, found the correct route and was on our way again. On the way to Arcos she tried a couple of more times at the small towns to send us up the garden path.

A short break at Arcos by the lake to rejuvenate us was required before we set off on the last 150km to Tarifa. Most of the driving from here was on top quality highways. There wasn’t much traffic and for once the GPS was acting as a friend as we sped through the county side. We have booked two nights at Meson de Sancho hotel about 10km from Tarifa and arrived just before 3:00pm. We were not expecting much as it has cost us only 55 euro for the two nights. Imagine our surprise when we opened the door to a huge bedroom, big bathroom and a large balcony with a view of the mountains.

There was even a bar fridge to cool down my cans of beer.

After settling in we took a late drive into Tarifa to have a look at the beach. Even at 7:00pm there were people kite surfing and hanging around the beach. It was difficult to get a park so we headed back out of town along with the multitudes who were finishing up their weekend.

Monday 4th June – Out of Africa

Unlike Bing Crosby and Bob Hope who starred in “The Road To Morocco” Alice and I will be bit players in “The Ferry to Morocco”.

We have booked a trip to Africa for 59 euro and will alight at Tangiers, Morocco which is about a 60 minute trip. We were met at the ferry terminal in Tangiers but were delayed as they were missing a female passenger. It turned out that I should have had my glasses on as they were looking for an Alice Djernov, Oops!

The city bus tour consists of a drive through the ritzy palace neighbourhood with views of the old city. There is a quick stop for a five minute, one euro camel ride but you spend more time swatting away the unwanted salesmen who are trying to flog off souvenirs that nobody wants. The bus then deposits you near the Kasbah where the guide leads you through a maze of interesting lanes with mosques, communal water fountains and hole in the wall shops. We must have been day dreaming as we missed where the guide had turned into the restaurant that was providing our lunch.

A decent lunch of soup, skewered lamb, chicken and desert was served in a palatial setting, loved the red cushions and the sounds of live traditional music. After lunch we were off into the maze of the Medina for some well-deserved shopping. The touts were out and about and as we walked the prices for unwanted goods dropped in dizzying amounts. The shopping the tour had in mind was a trip to a carpet shop which we half expected. A team of men rolled out carpet after carpet with no mention of cost. At the end of the show the hard sell began but Alice and I were spared as we feigned no interest.

One woman whose husband had gone missing seized the opportunity and purchased a rather large carpet which was quickly wrapped and paid for. Our next shopping stop was an oil and spice market which seemed to have every tour group in Tangiers trapped within its walls. The salesman who was dressed like a chemist in his white waistcoat rattled off an impressive list of oils and herbs that did everything except cure the common cold. He must have been good as I walked away with some leaves to sniff which according to him will cure my snoring in at least six months. I’ll have to book another trip if it doesn’t work.

A little after 2:30pm we were back at the ferry terminal to catch our boat at 4:00pm which meant 5:00pm due to time differences. We managed to pass the time easily as we had struck up a quick travel friendship with an American couple and two Aussie ladies on holidays without their husbands.

The trip back to Tarifa was pleasant and after a lot of guesswork we managed to find the bus which would drop us at our hotel. Our recommendation for this tour is don’t do it! The better option is to pay an extra 10 euro and stay overnight at one of the hotels. This gives you the afternoon and all of the next day to explore Tangiers at your leisure.

We spent the evening on our balcony drinking wine and beer staring out over the valley with the African Pillar of Hercules in the distance. The other one we will hopefully see tomorrow at Gibraltar.

Tuesday 5th June – Got Married in Gibraltar, Near Spain

As you drive towards Gibraltar you cannot avoid seeing the European Pillar of Hercules which today is shrouded in cloud. The title for today’s diary entry comes from a line in the John Lennon song “The Ballad of John and Yoko”. Play it again if you dare! It is hard to believe that Gibraltar also was home to Miss World 2009 and the brilliant songwriter Albert Hammond. Who is Albert Hammond you may well ask? His songs have sold over 300 million records and he had several hits in the 70’s (time to Google).

For most of my life I believed that Gibraltar was an island just off the coast of Spain that belonged to good old England. Well today proved that it was on the mainland and as a result a constant thorn in Spain’s side. We parked in Spain and then walked to the border where we were ushered through with barely a glance at our passports. This was a good option as the line-up of cars was quite long and as we found out there isn’t much parking available. We were delayed along with vehicular traffic as the road was closed due to planes landing and taking off. The main road into Gibraltar cuts across the middle of the runway.

Public transport was our method for today’s sightseeing adventure. For two British pounds we purchased a hop on and off ticket and caught the number 3 bus out to Europa Point. There were a few sunbathers taking advantage of the weather but none were swimming in the crystal clear water. The number 4 bus was supposed to drop us at the cable car but we missed the stop and ended up back in the town centre. A kindly retired couple with unmistakeable British accents explained that we could catch the number 2 bus to the cable car and to alight at the same stop as them. I could not understand why the buses were taking so long as they were supposed to be operating on a 15 minute frequency.

As luck would have it they were operating on a 30 minute frequency as it was a public holiday.
We made it to the cable car, paid our 9.5 pounds for a return ticket and then ascended to the top of the rock. The limestone rock allows you to drool over the 360 degree view of Morocco, the Strait of Gibraltar and today a bank of cloud obscuring the Costa del Sol.

 The Rock is also home to the Apes of Gibraltar which are actually tailless Barbary macaques. Alice managed to snap a few shots of these hairy creatures as they always congregate where there is an opportunity for free food. It would have been good to walk down from the summit but we were running out of time. After waiting 15 minutes for a bus the number 3 came along. We jumped on board, alighted near the airport and took the short walk back into Spain.

At 4:00pm we started our 200km drive to the beach side town of Nerja. I only took one wrong turn which added about 10 minutes to our journey. By 7:00pm the car was parked and Alice and I were sipping a celebratory glass of champagne. Our hostal is situated on a pedestrian mall and only a short walk from the Balcony of Europe. Suffice to say we are looking forward to our stay here at the Tres Soles Hostal (45 euro, with breakfast).

Wednesday 6th June – Nestled in Nerja

After a late but delicious breakfast Alice and I were ready for a relaxing day on the beach. We chose to walk 20 minutes east to Burriana Beach which is probably the most popular with tourists. This is due to its length and other attractions such as volleyball courts, paddle boats, playgrounds. The shoreline did not look to inviting as there was a rust coloured algae that had come in with the tide. This did not deter us and after spending some time under the beach umbrella I finally moved my carcass from the rented deck chairs and plunged into the water. It was certainly invigorating and I was surprised at how cool it was.

After the swim it was off to one of the many cafes and restaurants that line the beach. Our guidebook had recommended Ayo’s whose paella feast is a destination in itself. The restaurant décor is all plastic and set up on the beach sand. The all you can eat chicken and prawn paella which costs about 7 euro is cooked on an open fire for everyone to see. The food was good but the added bonus is that the owner Ayo hires hard to employ people as a community service. Another swim after lunch and it is back to the hotel. I should mention that we left at about 6:00pm and there were still plenty of people on the beach. The Europeans just love the sun and spend the day moving deckchairs to glean as much as they can. I was the only person in the water or on the beach that had a rash shirt on.

Alice has trolled the shops looking for bargains but alas she has returned to the hostal empty handed. This is a modern day tragedy when a woman cannot spend her hard won dollars. To make up for this disappointment I have gone all out on dinner at the local pizza restaurant. It was a good choice as the food was delicious and the wine was cheap. We finished up with a romantic stroll (paseo) on the Balcony of Europe.

The Balcony is a bluff that juts out into the sea and is completely pedestrianized. It overlooks the Mediterranean, miles of coastline and little caves and coves below. It is a popular spot for locals and tourists and a perfect way to end what has been a relaxing day.