Day 52, 14th June – Exploration
Patmos is a relatively small island with not much traffic so Allan and Tony have hired motor scooters for getting around the island. I’m not as confident as them so I have stuck with the faithful quad bike. Our first stop was the Cave of the Apocalypse where St. John wrote the book of Revelation. There was a German tour group in the cave church conducting a service. We sat quietly in one of the pews and took in the biblical significance of the setting. As we were leaving another tour group was arriving. It pays to time your arrival as soon as it opens as it is a popular destination for pilgrim groups and tourists. At a fork in the road we left Allan and Doreen. They headed off in search of beaches while we went back to the hotel for our swimming gear.
We have chosen to ride to Agriolivadi Beach which is a few kilometres out of town. From the top of the hill it is a great view of the beach with its neat row of sun-beds and two white washed tavernas. After a quick bite to eat we joined the other sun worshipers. The sun-beds were a little expensive so we laid our towels out under the shade of a tree. The beach is pebbly but easy underfoot so it is easy getting into the water. The horseshoe bay is well protected and there is hardly any wind. Alice was soon in the water doing some sort of aerobic exercises while I settled for a long swim out to a yacht. There was still more exploration to undertake so it was back on the quad for more fun.
There was a sign indicating turn left for Lefkes Bay so we followed the road until it petered out into a rutted dirt track. It was way too bumpy for the quad so we gave up and headed up the mountain to Kampos. There were a couple of choices from here so at yet another fork in the road we headed for Ag. Nikolaos. The terrain was quite rugged and the barren landscape with the sea as a backdrop made it a stunning view. At the end of the road there was a little church and a track that led down to the bay. That was too far for us so it was back to the fork in the road and a trip down to Livadi Kalogiron Bay. There was only one other person on the rocky beach so we took a spot for ourselves and plunged naked into the sea. There was no point in getting our clothes wet again! Although this bay was not protected from the wind the water was quite warm. Alice did a bit of a plastic cleanup of the beach before we called it a day and headed back to the hotel.
Day 53, 15th June – On The Road Again
It was a slow start to the day as we were a little dusty after last night’s drinks. Alice and I headed North East and made our way to Panagia Beach which is situated below a beautiful Greek Orthodox Church. The path down to the beach passed by a goat pen before ending at a secluded bay. We knew it was secluded as all four patrons were naked. There was no shade available so Alice and I were soon in the water to cool off and enjoying the remoteness of the location. As we were leaving Tony and Julie pulled up so we went off to investigate Geranos Beach and Apollou. This area is worth more exploration as there are hiking trails that take you to bays and beaches that are not accessible by motorized transport.
Lunch was calling so we found a little taverna at a beautiful bay called Livadi Geranou . The view would rival the Stradbroke Hotel but it is the simplicity of the surroundings that sets it apart. We enjoyed a couple of traditional dishes prior to walking down to the well shaded beach. Tony and I took a long swim to a nearby island while Alice and Julie cooled off in the shallow water. The afternoon quickly disappeared and it was back on the machinery to Skala town.
Tonight we decided to stay at the hotel and have a concert with the resident star Tony. There is a neat little courtyard where we can eat and Tony can perform his music. We have all prepared a different portion of the meal. Alice has put on cheese, figs, nectarines, olives and biscuits for the entrée. The main meal is potatoes, baked beans, tomato, onion and cheese prepared lovingly by Allan and Doreen. Julie and Tony have provided a traditional greek desert. Tony was in fine voice and the food which was well lubricated went down a treat.
Day 54, 16th June – The Monastery of St. John
The first thing you notice on Patmos is the monastery of St John the Divine or the Evangelist and that is our destination this morning. It crowns the hill of Hora. It looks like a Byzantine castle and was built like a fortress. Its presence is overwhelming and was founded in 1088 by Ossios Christodoulos following a grant by the Byzantine Emperor Alexios I. Komnenos. The greater part of the monastery was completed by Christodoulos in just three years. Its heavily fortified exterior was necessitated by the threats of piracy and Seljuk Turks.
The monastery’s walls are over 15 meters high, its length from north to south is 53 meters and from east to west 70 meters. It seems even larger when you stand at the entrance, noticing its thick walls and heavily reinforced door. The monastery consists of interconnecting courtyards, chapels, stairways, arcades, galleries and roof terraces. Hidden in the walls are fragments of an ancient temple of Artemis that was destroyed in the 11th century. The main chapel is lovely, as is the adjoining Chapel of the Theotokos, whose frescoes date from the 12th century.
The Treasury has an impressive array of religious art and treasure, mainly consisting of icons of the Cretan school. The star exhibits are an unusual mosaic icon of Agios Nikolaos and the 11th-century parchment granting the island to Christodoulos. There is also a painting of Christ by the famous El Greco who was born on the island of Crete.
After taking a few pictures of the nearby windmills we headed down to the beach at Stavros Bay. It is an extremely hot day and the deserted beach was just what the doctor ordered. The water was refreshing and if not for the lack of shade we would have stayed longer. A homemade lunch partaken on our balcony was a great way to wind down. Alice is so relaxed that she can just drag herself off the bed for a stint of window shopping. Tony and Julie are relaxing at Kampos beach on the four euro sun-beds. Doreen and Allan on the other hand are relaxing and touring around on their scooter.
I did not think it was possible but Alice managed to shop for about four hours and did not return until 7:00pm. She also managed to relieve a few shops of their merchandise. Doreen dropped by the room and told us that she and Allan were going out for a romantic dinner. Tony and Julie were also still out and about. Alice was still charged after her shopping spree so we decided to take an evening drive to Aspri Beach. There is a great little restaurant overlooking the water but unfortunately they had no customers. We backtracked a little and stopped at Meloi Beach and the lone seafood restaurant there was doing a brisk trade. The beach has brown sand which we would call dirt and some shady trees. It would appear to be a quiet spot that the kiddies would enjoy. It was starting to get late so we took a drive to a point that overlooks Merika Bay. The local authorities have installed a couple of seats as it is a perfect position to enjoy a Patmos sunset. We were not disappointed as spot on 8:30 pm the sun dropped behind a distant island in a bright red orb.
I knew Alice was starting to get hungry as it was well past her dinner time. She directed me to a restaurant in the back streets of Skala that she had seen earlier in the day. When we arrived there was only one other customer but nevertheless we took a seat. It was a good decision because the oven baked lamb and the rabbit stiffado (stew) were both delicious. For me that was the first time that I had eaten Bugs Bunny. Elmer Fudd eat your heart out! Cost for the meals including a litre of rose was 27 euro. It was a perfect way to end the day.
Day 55, 17th June - On The Beach
We are spending so much time on the beach that I will have to pull out my old Chris Rea compact disc. Today we headed north to a beach at Lefkes Bay. The road in winds through a small fertile valley which supports a number of small farms. When the bitumen ran out we parked the quad and walked the last few hundred metres down a rutted gravel track. A couple of the houses in here could have been called mansions as they were huge and had great views of the sea. The beach was mostly gravel and was quite wide. There were plenty of trees that were obviously planted to provide shade for the sun worshippers which consisted of only Alice and me. The marine life around the rocks and sea grass was a little more prolific but the fish are quite small. We both had an enjoyable swim in the warm water before heading back for lunch.
Alice and Doreen went for a shopping walk so I decided to head south to Petra beach. The drive mostly follows the sea and you have a great view of the yachts and ships entering the harbor. The beach at Petra is mostly sand but as you enter the water there is a few metres of stone that runs parallel with the shore. This is probably my favourite beach as there is plenty of shade, easy access and a beautiful view. There is also a couple of tavernas with good sea views and reasonably priced food.
Back at the hotel and it was time for dinner. We chose a seafood option at the rear of the town and had a platter of assorted greek snacks. After the meal we had an after dinner drink at the Shirley Valentine beach.
Day 56, 18th June – State of Origin 2
Alice was on a mission this morning as she was investigating the cost of posting some of our excess baggage home. It was approximately 25euro to send 2 kilograms to Australia but unfortunately they don’t sell post packs. The others were checking out the Delfini Hotel as they said that they would try to get the big game on their satellite television. The weather was quite humid today so Alice and I thought we would get a swim in prior to the game starting.
It was back to Petra beach and a nice long swim. The beauty here is that you can swim parallel to the shore for about 500 metres without getting bored. The water is clear and warm which makes it easy to enjoy. Back at the restaurant the others are relaxing over a few drinks but unfortunately the game can only be watched on a delayed telecast. I joined them at half time with Queensland leading four to nil. Everyone was feeling merry but that turned to dismay when Doreen received a text that NSW had scored a converted try. I don’t think we needed an excuse but that text led to more consumption of drinks of the alcoholic variety. By 6:30 everyone had definitely had enough and retired for the night. Not to be outdone by the rugby league the Aussies lost to the Netherlands 3-2 after leading 2-1. It wasn’t a great day for our sporting heroes.
Day 57, 19th June – Last Day in Patmos
Today is our last day in Patmos and Alice and I still have to complete our goal of having a swim at all the accessible beaches on the island. We started off slowly as everyone was a little dusty after yesterday’s marathon drinking effort. Alice also wanted to lighten our baggage so she made a visit to the post office and discovered we could send two kilograms home for 25euro. Lilian will have to keep an eye on the postman for us. The only drawback was that they do not sell post packs or supply tape to keep it all together. Alice solved this dilemma by making a couple of trips to the supermarket for a box and then the gaffer tape.
Finally we were on the quad bike and heading north to Lambi Beach. When the wind is not blowing this is one of the better beaches. The beach consists of fine pebbles which is mildly therapeutic to your feet. The water is as always crystal clear and suitable for a long swim or just floating around. There is a sun-bed operator but we preferred a mat under the shady trees. With our swimming done we took up residence at a beachside table and ordered up some lunch. There is only one tavern and they grow a fair proportion of the produce that is on the menu. We opted for some boiled vegetables (potatoes, spinach and zucchini) and some cheese (saginaki?) that was grilled and then flambéed with raki. I would have liked to have tried the fresh lobster but at 80euro a kilogram we gave it a miss. We did notice that a couple of tables with a good supply of gold bullion had ordered them. The fried stuffed zucchini flowers were something we would have tried.
With lunch over it was time to hit Vagia beach which is the last one on our to do list. It is another beautiful bay with tress to shelter you from the sun. The wind was chopping up the water so we had a quick swim before heading back to the hotel. Tony was still feeling a little washed out so I convinced him that we needed a long swim. We made a cute couple as Tony sat on the back of the quad en-route to Petra Beach. He did look better after taking the plunge and putting in some hard yards.
Doreen and Allan whipped up a gourmet meal for our last dinner. The main ingredient is baked beans which have been infused with sausage, tomato, onion and potato. Some crusty fresh bread to wipe up the rich sauce was the perfect accompaniment to the meal. We were all full so it was back to our room for a little lie down. Our ferry tonight departs just before midnight so it was lucky that the hotel is allowing us a late checkout at 10:00pm. With a little under two hours to kill we left the girls holding the luggage and headed off to a restaurant to watch the England v Uruguay world cup game. After a couple of beers and the score at 1-1 we headed back to the port to comfort our women. The ferry was on time and it wasn’t long before we were in our sleeping berths heading towards Athens.
Day 58, 20th June – Happy Birthday Jemma
Eventually we did fall asleep and it was nearly 7:30am when the internal alarm clock went off. Tony and Julie were the last ones to emerge from the cabin. Julie was a little bleary eyed as Tony had kept her awake with some loud snoring. Imagine the volume if he would have had more than two beers. Alice and Doreen did not fare much better however it was the freezing air conditioning that made it a difficult night. We berthed a little after 8:30am and as our flights are not until the afternoon we decided to have an American breakfast near the railway station. It wasn’t a bad breakfast but the fried eggs were a little greasy.
Our train trip to the airport involved a change of trains and cost 20euro for a 3 person group ticket. A single ticket from anywhere on the metro to the airport is 8euro. The journey was uneventful and took a little over an hour. Julie and Tony are flying home to Australia via Bangkok and were leaving from a different terminal. We said our sad farewells and as usual it has been a pleasure and a lot of fun travelling with them. They should have some fun in Bangkok figuring out how to get Julie’s last minute purchases into their bags.
After the four of us checked in we made our way past the first security point. At this stage I was heading for one of the lounges to take advantage of our priority pass. Unfortunately, in my haste I went through the next level of security and missed the opportunity. The girls changed into their warm clothing as the weather in Copenhagen is supposed to be a bit ordinary. My main concern was to find some wi-fi so I could activate my Skype. Lucky for me I was able to get a free connection and on our first attempt contacted Jemma. In the semi crowded waiting area Alice and I sung Happy Birthday in a voice that would have made the Three Tenors proud. A quick chat and we left her to enjoy her birthday dinner.
The airline gods once again have seated us in an ordinary seat. The seats were not reclined in front of us but we did have three young boys seated in front of us. Like all young boys they were easily excited and spent the whole journey jumping around in their seats. My stern face that cannot scare anyone did manage to keep them quiet for a few minutes. Alice thought there was a lot of flatulence emanating from their region and had to pull the air freshener out. As our journey was getting closer to the end the behavior became more rambunctious. Dad did endeavour to keep them quiet but it was only short lived.
Our flight landed at Kastrup, Copenhagen’s international airport at 4:00pm local time. After collecting our baggage which took 50 minutes to hit the baggage carousel we were met by Doreen and Alice’s cousins (Jens and Jytte) who will look after us for the next four days. The trip up to Ordrup took just over an hour. Jens took a couple of detours which allowed us to see some of the small villages and the lush green countryside. The weather is not being kind to us at the moment and we are being forced to endure dark grey skies with intermittent showers. Jytte prepared a delicious salad with marinated steak that we grilled on the weber barbeque. For desert we had fresh Danish strawberries (jordbaer). All this food was complemented by a 2012 Grenache Noir from the south of France. The little red fruits gave it a smooth yet powerful, liquorish taste and enough kick to make us sleep like babies.
Friday, June 27, 2014
Friday, June 20, 2014
Greek Islands
Day 42, 4th June – Lazy Day
The weather is still not great for the beach so Alice and I spent the morning indoors. Tony still had some time left with their car so they headed off into the mountains for some more exploring. Around lunch we headed into town and walked around the Kastro castle. It was good to explore the alleyways of the old market, museums and churches. It was late afternoon when we spotted the others having lunch at one of the waterfront restaurants. That was a timely reminder that we had not eaten so we chose an establishment that offered plenty of Greek food. We opted for a salad and stuffed tomatoes with potato.
There were some people braving the water but the overcast skies and wind is still prevailing. I guess the Europeans are not as spoiled as us. Dinner tonight was at a Ma and Pa establishment named Ellinko. The restaurant is owned by the kids but Mum does the cooking while Dad does the spruking and table clearing. The kitchen and food is on display and judging by the number of customers it should be delectable. Our verdict was a definite thumbs up for the food and the cost was very reasonable.
Day 43, 5th June – Santorini
Regrettably and despite the slightly inclement weather we will be sad to depart the Ilion Hotel where the breakfast was superb. The room rate was 40.5 euro per night and our room which was only 50 metres from the beach with views of the water from our balcony. The room was very modern and there was a small kitchen that was available to all the rooms.
The weather this morning is excellent so after breakfast Alice and I took a long walk on the beach. It was finally time to leave for the port and our host Sophia will convey James and our bags. Tony had a surprise for her when he played “Sweet Sophia/Caroline”. She was overcome with emotion and gave him big hug. In his excitement Tony left his man bag on the patio. It contained his passport and money and he would have been in trouble without it. I spotted it and casually slipped it into my backpack. I told Alice and Julie and we wondered how long it would take him to miss it. We were nearly at the port when he had his panic attack. Alice could barely keep a straight face and Julie told him that he had better hurry or he would miss the ferry. I couldn’t let my mate suffer so I put him out of his misery by producing it from my backpack.
The Blue Star ferry departed on time and on this trip we had plenty of room to stretch out. The trip takes about 2.5 hours and makes one stop at Ios. The last part of the trip is just below the imposing caldera. You have great view of the whitewashed hotels that are perched like eagle nests along the rim of the caldera. The passengers all had itchy feet and they were all crammed into the stairwell long before the ferry docked. No-one except us wanted to be last off the boat, it was if they thought the beach would disappear if they didn’t get off, NOW! We just took or time and avoided the manic crush and rush for the luggage that is crammed into a confined area. On this occasion we had no transfer booked but it did not take long for an entrepreneur to entice the seven of us into his van for the trip to the Narkissos Hotel at Kamari Beach. I’m not expecting the Taj Mahal as this hotel is only 28 euro per night with breakfast. After depositing our luggage in the small but comfortable room it was time to hit the black sand beach of Kamari. It was only a short walk and Tony and I were soon stroking our way out to sea. I think the speed we were travelling at gives new meaning to the Australian Crawl. The water temperature was bracing but not as cool as Mykonos.
Dinner tonight was at a restaurant which featured live music. The food which was the standard Greek offering was reasonable and the entertainment was spot on. Tony managed to entice a big group of what we thought were Danish singers to our table. They were great fun and I think one of the ladies had her eye on him. Alice engaged them in some conversation and with her grasp of Danish was able to discern that they were singles and not singers. No wonder she was eyeing Tony off.
Day 44, 6th June – D-Day
While the others slept Tony and I executed our own D-Day with a brisk walk to the top of the mountain that sits behind Kamari. The early morning view from the summit was worth the effort of the sixty minute round trip. We followed that up by storming the beach and swimming out to the boats that are anchored a 100 metres off shore. Feeling completely refreshed we endeared ourselves by bringing a freshly brewed cup of tea to our lovely maidens who were still reclining in bed. The breakfast that the hotel served was excellent. Juice, coffee, yoghurt, cereal, bread, ham, cheese and tomato were all available for immediate consumption. As we were in no hurry this morning we grazed until completely sated.
The rest of the day was spent just lazing around the beach in a section that offered free sun beds if you purchased something from the restaurant. That was easy as the hot sun soon builds up a thirst which means that some beer needs to be consumed. A few more swims and the day was just about over. Doreen and Allan were not in the mood for swimming but they managed to find an enclave where Tequila Sunrises and beer flowed freely.
Day 45, 7th June – A Sunset Day
Tony and I were up early again and headed up the mountain for some more exercise. We took a different route down which gave us a look at a shrine that marked a spring that supplied the ancient city with water. Without hiking poles the steep slope certainly put some pressure on the knees. After breakfast we all went our separate ways with the intention of meeting up at 5:00pm.
Alice and I decided to do some exploring and hired yet another quad bike. Driving on the right side of the road is becoming second nature but due to our small size you have to be wary of the tour buses and vans that speed along the narrow roads. Our first stop was at the village of Pyrgos which has a beautiful Greek Orthodox Church with commanding views of the island. Alice explored the inside of the church while I observed the local priest feed his chooks. Continuing on our way we travelled to the monastery of Profiti Ilia. This is the highest point on the island and the monastery grounds have plenty of shade for a weary traveler to relax under. We had a few strange looks when we set up the Tassie Devil for a photo shoot but he did not seem to mind the attention. The local monks also produce a selection of wines and food and these were available for sampling and eventual purchase. Both were delicious and if we had room in our bags we would have bought some.
Hunger was beginning to gnaw in the pit of our now empty stomachs so we headed down the mountain to another black sand beach known as Perissa. As we pulled up the quad a particularly persuasive restaurant owner enticed us into his beachfront establishment. The view was spot on and we enjoyed a relaxing lunch with wine. One thing we have noticed at all the restaurants is that they are reluctant to give you the bill. It gives you the feeling that they do not want you to leave or perhaps they believe that other customers will come based on the numbers in the restaurant. Eventually we received our bill and we could continue our drive along the very long beachfront of Perissa. It was getting late in the afternoon and I wanted a quick look at the caldera from the Akrotiri side of the island. This did not eventuate as I took a wrong turn and ended up at a little beach and port called Vlichada. It was fine but not as good as Perissa.
We met up with the others who had spent the day relaxing by the beach. Allan and Doreen caught the bus up to Fira and judging by Doreen’s fantastic photographs they had a great evening. Tony, Julie and James headed off to Oia on the local bus and had a meal overlooking Ammoudi Bay which gives you an amazing red sunset. Alice and I still had the quad so we thought we would brave a night ride. My memory must be failing me as I thought it was only a short distance to Oia. It took us over an hour to reach our destination and at one stage I thought we would miss the sunset. Parking was at a premium as everybody was trying to enjoy the sunset. Luckily, the quad does not need much space so we were able to squeeze into a tight spot not far from the action. There were plenty of people all trying to secure a vantage point on the headland and spots were difficult to find. We ended up walking to a lower section and managed to have a great view. Just before the sun had completely set we called it quits so that we would not be caught in the crush of humanity heading home. We did manage one last look from the church as the sun finally dipped below the distant horizon. Back on the quad and we gunned it out of the car park on the high road towards Fira. We still had some daylight so the initial driving wasn’t too bad. Once the light had gone I had to be more careful as the road is quite windy. I also had to be careful not to swallow the bugs that were lying into my face. I was glad when we finally handed over the keys to the rental agency. It was 9:30pm so Alice chose a little restaurant that had a pair of Greek guitarists to serenade us while we had our evening meal. With a roadside table we were able to first welcome back Doreen and Allan as they alighted from their bus. Julie, Tony and James arrived half an hour later. They all had a terrific time and really enjoyed the experience.
Day 46, 8th June – Last Day Santorini
Once again before breakfast Tony and I walked to the top of Ancient Thira. We reckon if we had a few more days that we would have buns of steel. A cup of tea for the beauties and it was off to the ocean for the wakeup swim. We must look a sight as we stroll up the street bare chested and dripping with water. Luckily, for Tony the Danish women are not awake at this hour of the day.
Our ferry to Kos does not leave until early the next day so we need a very late checkout from our hotel. Oleg, the owner from Belarus has managed to make our rooms available and will charge us the half room rate. He has been an excellent host and I would recommend this hotel as a cheap option for staying on Santorini. The day was once again spent lazing on the beach, reading from our Kindles and having some cool down swims. At midday we said our farewell to James who sadly had to return to London and the tyranny of work.
We all met up for a drink in the lobby of the hotel to decide on how we would spend the evening. We had a pizza from Oleg and if we had known how good the food was we would have eaten here more often. In the end we settled for having our last meal at the beach so that we could enjoy the view and the coolness of the sea breeze. At 11:30pm our pre booked van conveyed us down to the ferry terminal for the red-eye to Kos.
Day 47, 9th June – Ferry to Kos
At 00:50 the ferry with the bleary eyed travelers departed en-route to Kos. Even though we had a comfortable cabin with bunk beds sleep came slowly. Eventually I must have fell asleep as I was woken at 5:10 by the telephone and a scratchy voice announcing that we would arrive in Kos in 40 minutes. Reluctantly, we dragged ourselves out of bed for some quick ablutions prior to leaving our cabins. By 6:00am we were standing on the quay gazing across at Turkey in the distance and waiting forlornly for a taxi to deposit us at the Yigoris Hotel. Fortunately, it is only a 5 minute ride to the hotel where we will spend the next four nights at the impressive rate of 26.1 euros a night. The owners are fantastic and allowed us to have breakfast as well as having a room for all of us by 9:00am.
We were all a little shattered and in need of some sleep. Allan and I went for a walk around town and took in the historical sites of the Ancient Agora, The Venetian Castle and Hippocrates Plane Tree. In the end we all succumbed to the goddess of sleep and drifted off to the land of nod. In the late afternoon we took the girls for a walk and Julie managed to find a nice little sun dress for the beach.
For our evening meal we chose a restaurant within 50 metres of the hotel. It had a lovely little verandah with a mature grape vine providing some colour and shade. We ordered a lamb casserole and when we removed the lid there was Julie and Alice’s names emblazoned in red capsicum. To top it off we declared it the best meal that we had eaten in Greece.
Day 48, 10th June – Bodrum, Turkey
A nice leisurely breakfast this morning as we do not have to get going until 11:15 as we are catching a boat to Bodrum in Turkey. We are travelling on Laumzis boat the Nissos Kos for the 40 minute trip to another world. The fare is only 10 euro plus another 5 euro in port taxes. The competition for business is fierce and I would recommend the boat Maria Star as it is a family concern and not as crowded. The beauty of doing this day trip is that you do not need a visa for Turkey. The passport clearance in Kos is quick and painless and the procedure on the Turkish side even quicker. All they do is stamp your boarding pass for the boat.
Bodrum has many historical sites but we will not visit any of them as today is market day. It has a marvelous atmosphere and is a live example of the Middle East. At every opportunity there seems to be a salesman with a catchy line to tempt you inside a store. We wound our way through narrow lanes and streets to the Otogar (bus station) which was the nearest landmark to the bustling Tuesday Market. The girls were soon into action as they bargained for clothes. Tony quickly bought some polo shirts and we retired to the sanctuary of a nearby bar and downed a couple of Efes beers. Allan went off and had what he described as his best ever haircut. For seven euros he had a cut, shampoo and a massage. With the day drawing to an end we met at the port for a last drink before catching our return boat at 6:30pm. On deck and Tony’s charms were on full display as he soon had a Welsh lady eating out of the palm oh his hands.
Back in Greece we checked out a few of the sailing boats that are offering a three island day tour. We settled on the slightly smaller Katerina which is a family owned business. We wanted a smaller boat as they would not be as crowded and at 25 euro per person including lunch it is one of the better deals. Dinner tonight was at a new restaurant with water views. My lamb stiffado with onions was under 10 euro and was delicious. The lamb for both Alice and my meals jut fell apart in our mouths. Tony was ever adventurous and had swordfish once again.
Day 49, 11th June – The Big Reveal
There was no need to hurry this morning as we are hiring bicycles to travel up and down the many kilometers of bikeways on Kos. Allan and Doreen decided on a tandem bike and according to Doreen, never again! Apparently there was zero cushioning and as a result she has a very sore butt. The rest of us were less adventurous and settled for a conventional two wheeler at a cost of 7 euro for two. We headed off down the road and passed many beaches with sun beds for hire and the promise of a therapeutic massage. On our return from Cape Louros we stopped at the championship mini golf course. The owners were trimming the rough and asked to wait a few minutes while they swept the course. The state of the course is a little run down but the holes were challenging enough for us amateurs. Tony and I started like trains and thought we would have the girls begging for mercy. By the penultimate hole it was a close affair and the result would depend on the outcome of the final hole. Alice finished with a hole in one, Tony a two, and Julie and I with a pair of threes. Tony and Julie tied for third and Alice pipped me by one to win her first major championship. All this golf left us a little hot so we found a sheltered little bay near the shipyard and had a refreshing swim.
We all had lunch at the adjacent restaurant and enjoyed the view as well as the food. Afterwards we pedaled up to Lambi Beach and went our separate ways. Julie reported back that she had been a little risqué at the quiet beach of Cape Ammoudia. Apparently, she has never sunbathed without her top on and she thought if some of these aging matrons could then why not her. With gay abandon she ripped the top of her bathers down and bared all. She was a little mortified when the drinks waiter started to approach her for a drinks order. The brim of her hat was just big enough to hide under. It’s great to feel so young and free of our normal constraints. Alice and I on the other hand kept our gear on and enjoyed a refreshing swim out of the wind. Feeling refreshed we headed back towards down and ran into Doreen and Allan on their Hummer heading the other direction.
Back at the hotel and we all gathered in room 307 for a Tony concert. Alice cracked the champagne while Tony desperately tried to tune his guitar. He did not have much success which made it difficult for him. His goal tonight was to perform four songs with no mistakes but to Julie’s chagrin he could
not manage it. Nevertheless we all applauded him for his fine effort. There were quite a few empty bottles on the floor when we finished up. Tony and I were hungry but we could not convince the others to eat with us. They opted for bed as we went off in search of food. We could not go past the restaurant with a moniker of “Tony Italian Restaurant”. Once again Tony charmed an English couple by using his Geordie accent. She was an avid English rugby league supporter and positively swooned when she found out Tony had played there in the seventies. Age shall not weary him! On the other hand he had her husband bemoaning the fact that they just don’t brew Tetleys Bitter like they used to. Tony had even had quite a few beers at the same pub that he had frequented.
Day 50, 12th June – Three Island Tour
It was an early breakfast this morning as we wanted to board the Katerina early so that we could snaffle a prime position on the upper deck. We were not the first ones there but they did save us the spot on the top deck as promised. As our yacht was exiting the harbor the captain handed over the helm to Allan who acquitted himself well. Once we reached the main boating channel the wind really started to blow. As a result the ride was a little lumpy as we ploughed through the small troughs. Just before lunch we anchored at Plati Island in a small cove that offered some shelter from the wind that showed no signs of abating.
Everyone was ready for a swim so I did what all Inala Boys do and executed a perfect swan dive off the top deck. I would have given that one a 9.2 rating. The water was crystal clear and with my goggles on I could see plenty of fish. The first mate was throwing bread into the water as burley to attract the fish. He then entertained the passengers by catching a few good sized sea bream. Tony and I did our usual exercise swim and could have done more except the smell of the barbeque lunch lured us back on board. The food was delicious and the serving generous.
After lunch we travelled to Kalymnos Island which is famous for their sea sponges. We had an hour to explore the island so Tony and I walked 50 metres in each direction and then found a bar where we could people watch and of course enjoy an icy cold draught beer. The girls were lured by the excitement of shopping and returned with an assortment of sponges. The island itself does offer plenty for the traveler and would be a good destination for a few days. Back on board and we weighed anchor so we could search for dolphins. The crew has this worked out and as soon as we neared a fish farming complex they started to call the dolphins by using an underwater sounding device. It wasn’t long before they spotted a couple of large dolphins circling one of the fish pens. These cunning predators have worked out that there is an easy feed in this area. Judging by the excitement and the clicking of cameras I would say that most of the Europeans had never seen a dolphin in the wild before.
Our last island for the day was Pserimos and we anchored in a small cove that was ringed with a sandy beach. Unfortunately, the day was drawing to an end so we could only spend 30 minutes here. It was just long enough for everyone except Allan to enjoy a refreshing swim. It would have been good to sit back and enjoy the scenery from one of the few Tavernas that were positioned on the beachfront. It was just over an hour from here for the return to Kos. On this section of the trip the first mate really earned his keep. To the sound of the Titanic soundtrack he had most of the passengers posing with outstretched hands on the prow of the deck. At this stage the captain gave me a turn at steering the yacht and at the end I had to don my Pirates Of The Katerina headscarf. With the Pirates of the Caribbean soundtrack as an accompaniment all the passengers donned the headscarf and posed for pictures with swords and treasure. As the port came closer he then proceeded to lead everyone in a Zorba The Greek dance which was followed up with a Zumba. That one really got Alice moving. It was great way to end the day and I think everyone had a great day. I would definitely recommend the Katerina as it was not crowded, good value and more importantly, FUN!
Allan chose a great place for dinner. The food was excellent and the beer and wine cheap. The total bill for six of us was only 64 euro which is probably the cheapest meal with drinks that I have had anywhere.
Day 51, 13th June - Patmos
This morning we had to say goodbye to our hosts at the Yigoris Hotel, Dimitrios and his sprightly 73 year old Mum. From the early check-in and the great breakfast they have been very accommodating and helpful. It was with reluctance that we boarded our taxi to the port for our penultimate ferry leg. The Dedocanese Seaways Fast Cat departed on time and was soon at top speed and literally flying across the water. I went on the top deck and the force of the wind sucked 10 years off my face. It gave me what Tony calls the Jack Palance look. Our 2.5 hour journey also included stops at the ports of Kalymnos, Leros and Lipsi. When we pulled into the harbor we could see the Byzance Hotel where we will spend the next six nights.
After a quick check-in we all walked along the waterfront where there were ample restaurants to satisfy our needs. I was rather surprised at how quiet it was compared to our previous stops. Our late lunch of spinach pie and the ubiquitous Greek Salad filled the spot. A little stroll around the deserted shops and it was time to find the supermarket. Allan and I were amazed at the variety and price of the beers. It was a veritable Dan Murphy’s of Patmos. Alice and I left Allan still staring lovingly at the packed beer shelves. On returning to the hotel the owners asked if we would like to change to a room with a balcony. After a quick inspection we all decided that the change would be worth it. Lucky us boys are not invalids as the effort of carrying our girls bags would cripple an ordinary man. To finish the day we took a little table on the beach and savored a few drinks as the full moon cast a beautiful light over the water.
Day 52, 14th June – Exploration
Patmos is a relatively small island with not much traffic so Allan and Tony have hired motor scooters for getting around the island. I’m not as confident as them so I have stuck with the faithful quad bike. Our first stop was the Cave of the Apocalypse where St. John wrote the book of Revelation. There was a German tour group in the cave church conducting a service. We sat quietly in one of the pews and took in the biblical significance of the setting. As we were leaving another tour group was arriving. It pays to time your arrival as soon as it opens as it is a popular destination for pilgrim groups and tourists. At a fork in the road we left Allan and Doreen. They headed off in search of beaches while we went back to the hotel for our swimming gear.
We have chosen to ride to Agriolivadi Beach which is a few kilometres out of town. From the top of the hill it is a great view of the beach with its neat row of sun-beds and two white washed tavernas. After a quick bite to eat we joined the other sun worshipers. The sun-beds were a little expensive so we laid our towels out under the shade of a tree. The beach is pebbly but easy underfoot so it is easy getting into the water. The horseshoe bay is well protected and there is hardly any wind. Alice was soon in the water doing some sort of aerobic exercises while I settled for a long swim out to a yacht. There was still more exploration to undertake so it was back on the quad for more fun.
There was a sign indicating turn left for Lefkes Bay so we followed the road until it petered out into a rutted dirt track. It was way too bumpy for the quad so we gave up and headed up the mountain to Kampos. There were a couple of choices from here so at yet another fork in the road we headed for Ag. Nikolaos. The terrain was quite rugged and the barren landscape with the sea as a backdrop made it a stunning view. At the end of the road there was a little church and a track that led down to the bay. That was too far for us so it was back to the fork in the road and a trip down to Livadi Kalogiron Bay. There was only one other person on the rocky beach so we took a spot for ourselves and plunged naked into the sea. There was no point in getting our clothes wet again! Although this bay was not protected from the wind the water was quite warm. Alice did a bit of a plastic cleanup of the beach before we called it a day and headed back to the hotel.
The weather is still not great for the beach so Alice and I spent the morning indoors. Tony still had some time left with their car so they headed off into the mountains for some more exploring. Around lunch we headed into town and walked around the Kastro castle. It was good to explore the alleyways of the old market, museums and churches. It was late afternoon when we spotted the others having lunch at one of the waterfront restaurants. That was a timely reminder that we had not eaten so we chose an establishment that offered plenty of Greek food. We opted for a salad and stuffed tomatoes with potato.
There were some people braving the water but the overcast skies and wind is still prevailing. I guess the Europeans are not as spoiled as us. Dinner tonight was at a Ma and Pa establishment named Ellinko. The restaurant is owned by the kids but Mum does the cooking while Dad does the spruking and table clearing. The kitchen and food is on display and judging by the number of customers it should be delectable. Our verdict was a definite thumbs up for the food and the cost was very reasonable.
Day 43, 5th June – Santorini
Regrettably and despite the slightly inclement weather we will be sad to depart the Ilion Hotel where the breakfast was superb. The room rate was 40.5 euro per night and our room which was only 50 metres from the beach with views of the water from our balcony. The room was very modern and there was a small kitchen that was available to all the rooms.
Dinner tonight was at a restaurant which featured live music. The food which was the standard Greek offering was reasonable and the entertainment was spot on. Tony managed to entice a big group of what we thought were Danish singers to our table. They were great fun and I think one of the ladies had her eye on him. Alice engaged them in some conversation and with her grasp of Danish was able to discern that they were singles and not singers. No wonder she was eyeing Tony off.
Day 44, 6th June – D-Day
While the others slept Tony and I executed our own D-Day with a brisk walk to the top of the mountain that sits behind Kamari. The early morning view from the summit was worth the effort of the sixty minute round trip. We followed that up by storming the beach and swimming out to the boats that are anchored a 100 metres off shore. Feeling completely refreshed we endeared ourselves by bringing a freshly brewed cup of tea to our lovely maidens who were still reclining in bed. The breakfast that the hotel served was excellent. Juice, coffee, yoghurt, cereal, bread, ham, cheese and tomato were all available for immediate consumption. As we were in no hurry this morning we grazed until completely sated.
The rest of the day was spent just lazing around the beach in a section that offered free sun beds if you purchased something from the restaurant. That was easy as the hot sun soon builds up a thirst which means that some beer needs to be consumed. A few more swims and the day was just about over. Doreen and Allan were not in the mood for swimming but they managed to find an enclave where Tequila Sunrises and beer flowed freely.
Day 45, 7th June – A Sunset Day
Tony and I were up early again and headed up the mountain for some more exercise. We took a different route down which gave us a look at a shrine that marked a spring that supplied the ancient city with water. Without hiking poles the steep slope certainly put some pressure on the knees. After breakfast we all went our separate ways with the intention of meeting up at 5:00pm.
Hunger was beginning to gnaw in the pit of our now empty stomachs so we headed down the mountain to another black sand beach known as Perissa. As we pulled up the quad a particularly persuasive restaurant owner enticed us into his beachfront establishment. The view was spot on and we enjoyed a relaxing lunch with wine. One thing we have noticed at all the restaurants is that they are reluctant to give you the bill. It gives you the feeling that they do not want you to leave or perhaps they believe that other customers will come based on the numbers in the restaurant. Eventually we received our bill and we could continue our drive along the very long beachfront of Perissa. It was getting late in the afternoon and I wanted a quick look at the caldera from the Akrotiri side of the island. This did not eventuate as I took a wrong turn and ended up at a little beach and port called Vlichada. It was fine but not as good as Perissa.
Day 46, 8th June – Last Day Santorini
Our ferry to Kos does not leave until early the next day so we need a very late checkout from our hotel. Oleg, the owner from Belarus has managed to make our rooms available and will charge us the half room rate. He has been an excellent host and I would recommend this hotel as a cheap option for staying on Santorini. The day was once again spent lazing on the beach, reading from our Kindles and having some cool down swims. At midday we said our farewell to James who sadly had to return to London and the tyranny of work.
We all met up for a drink in the lobby of the hotel to decide on how we would spend the evening. We had a pizza from Oleg and if we had known how good the food was we would have eaten here more often. In the end we settled for having our last meal at the beach so that we could enjoy the view and the coolness of the sea breeze. At 11:30pm our pre booked van conveyed us down to the ferry terminal for the red-eye to Kos.
Day 47, 9th June – Ferry to Kos
At 00:50 the ferry with the bleary eyed travelers departed en-route to Kos. Even though we had a comfortable cabin with bunk beds sleep came slowly. Eventually I must have fell asleep as I was woken at 5:10 by the telephone and a scratchy voice announcing that we would arrive in Kos in 40 minutes. Reluctantly, we dragged ourselves out of bed for some quick ablutions prior to leaving our cabins. By 6:00am we were standing on the quay gazing across at Turkey in the distance and waiting forlornly for a taxi to deposit us at the Yigoris Hotel. Fortunately, it is only a 5 minute ride to the hotel where we will spend the next four nights at the impressive rate of 26.1 euros a night. The owners are fantastic and allowed us to have breakfast as well as having a room for all of us by 9:00am.
For our evening meal we chose a restaurant within 50 metres of the hotel. It had a lovely little verandah with a mature grape vine providing some colour and shade. We ordered a lamb casserole and when we removed the lid there was Julie and Alice’s names emblazoned in red capsicum. To top it off we declared it the best meal that we had eaten in Greece.
Day 48, 10th June – Bodrum, Turkey
A nice leisurely breakfast this morning as we do not have to get going until 11:15 as we are catching a boat to Bodrum in Turkey. We are travelling on Laumzis boat the Nissos Kos for the 40 minute trip to another world. The fare is only 10 euro plus another 5 euro in port taxes. The competition for business is fierce and I would recommend the boat Maria Star as it is a family concern and not as crowded. The beauty of doing this day trip is that you do not need a visa for Turkey. The passport clearance in Kos is quick and painless and the procedure on the Turkish side even quicker. All they do is stamp your boarding pass for the boat.
Back in Greece we checked out a few of the sailing boats that are offering a three island day tour. We settled on the slightly smaller Katerina which is a family owned business. We wanted a smaller boat as they would not be as crowded and at 25 euro per person including lunch it is one of the better deals. Dinner tonight was at a new restaurant with water views. My lamb stiffado with onions was under 10 euro and was delicious. The lamb for both Alice and my meals jut fell apart in our mouths. Tony was ever adventurous and had swordfish once again.
Day 49, 11th June – The Big Reveal
There was no need to hurry this morning as we are hiring bicycles to travel up and down the many kilometers of bikeways on Kos. Allan and Doreen decided on a tandem bike and according to Doreen, never again! Apparently there was zero cushioning and as a result she has a very sore butt. The rest of us were less adventurous and settled for a conventional two wheeler at a cost of 7 euro for two. We headed off down the road and passed many beaches with sun beds for hire and the promise of a therapeutic massage. On our return from Cape Louros we stopped at the championship mini golf course. The owners were trimming the rough and asked to wait a few minutes while they swept the course. The state of the course is a little run down but the holes were challenging enough for us amateurs. Tony and I started like trains and thought we would have the girls begging for mercy. By the penultimate hole it was a close affair and the result would depend on the outcome of the final hole. Alice finished with a hole in one, Tony a two, and Julie and I with a pair of threes. Tony and Julie tied for third and Alice pipped me by one to win her first major championship. All this golf left us a little hot so we found a sheltered little bay near the shipyard and had a refreshing swim.
Back at the hotel and we all gathered in room 307 for a Tony concert. Alice cracked the champagne while Tony desperately tried to tune his guitar. He did not have much success which made it difficult for him. His goal tonight was to perform four songs with no mistakes but to Julie’s chagrin he could
Day 50, 12th June – Three Island Tour
Everyone was ready for a swim so I did what all Inala Boys do and executed a perfect swan dive off the top deck. I would have given that one a 9.2 rating. The water was crystal clear and with my goggles on I could see plenty of fish. The first mate was throwing bread into the water as burley to attract the fish. He then entertained the passengers by catching a few good sized sea bream. Tony and I did our usual exercise swim and could have done more except the smell of the barbeque lunch lured us back on board. The food was delicious and the serving generous.
After lunch we travelled to Kalymnos Island which is famous for their sea sponges. We had an hour to explore the island so Tony and I walked 50 metres in each direction and then found a bar where we could people watch and of course enjoy an icy cold draught beer. The girls were lured by the excitement of shopping and returned with an assortment of sponges. The island itself does offer plenty for the traveler and would be a good destination for a few days. Back on board and we weighed anchor so we could search for dolphins. The crew has this worked out and as soon as we neared a fish farming complex they started to call the dolphins by using an underwater sounding device. It wasn’t long before they spotted a couple of large dolphins circling one of the fish pens. These cunning predators have worked out that there is an easy feed in this area. Judging by the excitement and the clicking of cameras I would say that most of the Europeans had never seen a dolphin in the wild before.
Our last island for the day was Pserimos and we anchored in a small cove that was ringed with a sandy beach. Unfortunately, the day was drawing to an end so we could only spend 30 minutes here. It was just long enough for everyone except Allan to enjoy a refreshing swim. It would have been good to sit back and enjoy the scenery from one of the few Tavernas that were positioned on the beachfront. It was just over an hour from here for the return to Kos. On this section of the trip the first mate really earned his keep. To the sound of the Titanic soundtrack he had most of the passengers posing with outstretched hands on the prow of the deck. At this stage the captain gave me a turn at steering the yacht and at the end I had to don my Pirates Of The Katerina headscarf. With the Pirates of the Caribbean soundtrack as an accompaniment all the passengers donned the headscarf and posed for pictures with swords and treasure. As the port came closer he then proceeded to lead everyone in a Zorba The Greek dance which was followed up with a Zumba. That one really got Alice moving. It was great way to end the day and I think everyone had a great day. I would definitely recommend the Katerina as it was not crowded, good value and more importantly, FUN!
Allan chose a great place for dinner. The food was excellent and the beer and wine cheap. The total bill for six of us was only 64 euro which is probably the cheapest meal with drinks that I have had anywhere.
Day 51, 13th June - Patmos
This morning we had to say goodbye to our hosts at the Yigoris Hotel, Dimitrios and his sprightly 73 year old Mum. From the early check-in and the great breakfast they have been very accommodating and helpful. It was with reluctance that we boarded our taxi to the port for our penultimate ferry leg. The Dedocanese Seaways Fast Cat departed on time and was soon at top speed and literally flying across the water. I went on the top deck and the force of the wind sucked 10 years off my face. It gave me what Tony calls the Jack Palance look. Our 2.5 hour journey also included stops at the ports of Kalymnos, Leros and Lipsi. When we pulled into the harbor we could see the Byzance Hotel where we will spend the next six nights.
After a quick check-in we all walked along the waterfront where there were ample restaurants to satisfy our needs. I was rather surprised at how quiet it was compared to our previous stops. Our late lunch of spinach pie and the ubiquitous Greek Salad filled the spot. A little stroll around the deserted shops and it was time to find the supermarket. Allan and I were amazed at the variety and price of the beers. It was a veritable Dan Murphy’s of Patmos. Alice and I left Allan still staring lovingly at the packed beer shelves. On returning to the hotel the owners asked if we would like to change to a room with a balcony. After a quick inspection we all decided that the change would be worth it. Lucky us boys are not invalids as the effort of carrying our girls bags would cripple an ordinary man. To finish the day we took a little table on the beach and savored a few drinks as the full moon cast a beautiful light over the water.
Day 52, 14th June – Exploration
We have chosen to ride to Agriolivadi Beach which is a few kilometres out of town. From the top of the hill it is a great view of the beach with its neat row of sun-beds and two white washed tavernas. After a quick bite to eat we joined the other sun worshipers. The sun-beds were a little expensive so we laid our towels out under the shade of a tree. The beach is pebbly but easy underfoot so it is easy getting into the water. The horseshoe bay is well protected and there is hardly any wind. Alice was soon in the water doing some sort of aerobic exercises while I settled for a long swim out to a yacht. There was still more exploration to undertake so it was back on the quad for more fun.
Sunday, June 15, 2014
What's in Tony's Hat?
Day 35, 28th May – Athens On Foot
No need to hurry this morning as our first job is to purchase ferry tickets for our upcoming adventures of island hopping. A couple of legs are at night so we decided to get a couple of bunks which obviously increases the cost. All up the six legs have cost 488 euro per couple. The exercise took up a little time but we eventually caught the Athens Open Tour (yellow bus). The cost of 15euro for both the Athens and Piraeus tour for 48 hours was excellent value. We did the complete circuit and exited the tour at the Thession stop. This was a good opportunity to have lunch in the touristy area of Mitropoleos Street. We all tried something different but I can highly recommend the stuffed tomatoes with a huge Greek salad as a side.
With lunch over we all split up to give the girls the opportunity to troll the flea market. The queen of shopping, Julie to our surprise came back empty handed. It was time to jump back on the bus for a short trip to the Acropolis. Julie and Tony left the tour while we changed to the Piraeus tour. It was a hot day so it was good to be sitting in the open air on the top deck of the bus. One landmark that we were surprised to keep on seeing was the strip clubs. We stayed on the bus and had great views of the water. An hour later we were back at the Acropolis where we changed on to another bus. Doreen and Allan stayed on the bus while Alice and I went shopping for a Greece towel. We finished the day off with an excellent and reasonably priced meal at a restaurant recommended by our hotel. I can’t remember the name but it was located just off Omonia Square in Themistokleous Street.
Day 36, 29th May – A Day At The Museum
Julie and Tony are having a day off touring and have decided to have a browse around the local shops that surround Omonia Square. The hop on hop off bus has two stops within close proximity of our hotel. As a result we are avoiding having to pay ancillary travel costs on the metro. First stop today for Allan and Doreen was the Acropolis Museum where they had a good look at artifacts from the Parthenon. Alice went off to a Jewelry Museum and fortunately did not come back with any items.
After lunch we took a stroll through the Plaka district, Hadrians Gate and the Temple of Zeus. The highlight was watching the changing of the guard at the tomb of the Unknown Soldier next to Parliament House. Alice left us at this point and we continued onto the Acropolis. This is one historical site that you should not miss when visiting Athens. Our route to the Parthenon which is situated on top of the Acropolis took us past Dionysus Theatre, and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. Apart from the magnificent temples there is a great view of Athens and Filopappou Hill. Our route down took us through the Ancient Agora where I managed to have a relief stop behind an old pine tree. We had used up a fair bit of shoe leather but still had some energy to visit Hadrians Library. It was a little before 5:00pm so Doreen and Allan headed back to the hotel while I braved the subway. I was on a reconnaissance mission to figure out how we would use the public transport system to get to the port at Piraeus. For 1.4euro I was able to travel down to the port and then back to Omonia Square.
Back at the hotel Alice indulged me by taking me down to the local hairdresser. Alice gave her some instructions and within a few minutes I was looking handsome again. It was reasonably good value for 5euros. We had dinner at a little café behind our hotel which was selling gyros and other delicacies at local prices. After a good meal and quite a few drinks it was time to settle our account. Thirty Euros for four people was excellent value.
Day 37, 30th May – Ferry to Mykonos
We were up at 5:30am this morning as our ferry departs at 7:30am. I would highly recommend the Vienna Hotel as a great budget stay in Athens. The staff was excellent with advice on the area and even gave the girls a red rose each when we departed. Our public transport option worked a treat as the terminus is right at the port. At 6:30am there was plenty of room for our luggage and the journey time was 18 minutes. A short walk and we were soon on board Blue Star Ferries, travelling economy class (18euro) to Mykonos. The only mistake we made was not booking business class for this leg. There were hardly any seats available when we boarded as other passengers had already staked their claim. Thanks to Allan we ended up with a table which we spread our chairs around.
Our journey time was just under six hours and it was a relief to know that a van for our hotel, The Paradise View was there to meet us. This is the second time Alice and I have stayed at this hotel. Our room is probably the worst in the whole complex as it has no view or balcony. In saying this, our room is still comfortable and well appointed. I guess we were spoiled on our previous visit. The hotel is about 300m from Paradise Beach and situated on a hill which looks down a valley to the beach. It is a glorious outlook from the pool and breakfast area which makes up for the initial disappointment.
After settling in it was off to the beach to look at the young and beautiful cavorting to the incessant music beat. Doreen and Julie were amazed at one couple who obviously did not have any money. We deduced this as they could not afford the cost of any swimwear. There were not many in the water and after plunging in we knew why. Despite the hot weather the temperature was quite bracing. A couple of drinks on Tony and Julie’s expansive balcony, yes they have one finished of the afternoon. For our evening entertainment we jumped on the local bus and for 1.6euro we were deposited in Hora, Mykonos. We had a just reasonable meal that sated our hunger for 20euro a couple at a hole in the wall establishment.
The last bus back to our hotel departed at 9:15 so we took a stroll through the Mykonos maze. The streets or should I say laneways are paved with stone with the joints painted in white. They can afford to keep it maintained as there is a never ending stream of tourists tramping through them. The waterfront was packed and the water was luminous from the millions of lights that were ablaze. We stopped for a drink each at a bar in Little Venice, so called as the building footings are in the water. The ambience was great but the prohibitive cost of the drinks does make it a oncer. A ten euro cab ride and lots of thrills from our formula one driver finished off our evening.
Day 38, 31st May – Paradise Point Dive
It is a beautiful sunny day which should make for excellent diving and beach conditions. Allan and Doreen are sorting out high finances in downtown. The rest of us however have ambled down the hill to take advantage of the day. I have booked a dive with Mykonos Diving and at 60euro for a short boat dive it is comparable to Australian costs. After gearing up and looking like a navy seal we headed out to Paradise Point for my first dive in about two years. I was a little apprehensive as my ears have been playing up which may make it difficult to equalize. A nice backward roll off the side of the inflatable into the frigid water soon had my senses working. I knew I was alive when the water started to seep inside my wetsuit. I just managed to pop my ears as I dropped slowly to the ocean floor. The visibility was at least 25 metres and there was only a slight current. My dive buddy was making heavy weather of his descent and I could see him eating air as he bobbed up and down like a yoyo. The marine life was scarce but we did see a couple of small grouper. Our dive to a depth of 18 metres lasted about 45 minutes. Towards the end the cold started to seep into my bones so I was happy when it finished. The dive company was excellent and it was good to get wet again despite the lack of marine life.
By the time my dive had finished Tony and Julie had departed for the warmer clime of the shops in Hora. Alice and I trudged up the hill to relax by the pool however that was short lived as George the manager has found us a room with a balcony. Without hesitation our bags were quickly packed and with a short walk up the steps we were ensconced in a more salubrious room. The afternoon was drifting away so it was onto the bus for some sightseeing around town. As we alighted there were Tony and Julie waiting to take the bus back to the hotel for a late afternoon nap. Hastily we made arrangements to meet for dinner at 7:00pm at Kounelas Traditional Fish Tavern.
Alice and I spent the afternoon taking photographs of cats, windmills and churches. Judging by the number of cats that we have seen there appears to be a need for a spading program to reduce the numbers. Dinner in the garden setting was a culinary standout and the girls gave the grilled swordfish a ten out of ten. The complimentary wine that was served from a penis shaped bottle was a fine conclusion to the evening. Earlier in the afternoon I had hired a quad bike for exploring the island. It was with some trepidation that I mounted my trusty machine for the journey back to the hotel. Travelling at night on narrow roads in unfamiliar territory can be daunting but I needed to get the quad back to the hotel. I would like to say it was a breeze but I got hopelessly lost. In the end I pulled into a service station and they put me back on track. Even with my hopeless sense of direction I managed to get back to the hotel before the local bus.
Day 39, 1st June – In Search of Shirley Valentine
After breakfast Alice and I fired up our trusty quad bike and headed off to the City bus terminal where we had planned to meet the others. Our well laid plans came to a standstill when after climbing a rather steep hill our quad came to a standstill. I could not believe it, to my chagrin and in the middle of nowhere the blasted machine was out of petrol. My frustration was further compounded by the fact that I could have filled up the previous night when asking for directions. While considering our options the local bus trundled into view so I grabbed the opportunity and headed into town where the hire place was located. He looked at me with disdain but gave me a litre of fuel to get us going again. I had just enough time to jump back on the bus heading out of town. Alice had guarded our machine with her life and after replenishing it’s fuel supply we were finally ready to start the day. The others should have been in town waiting for us but they had fared no better than us. Their pickup failed to arrive until 11:30am so they were delayed even longer than us. In the end we gave up waiting and headed off to Ag. Sostis and Panormos beaches on the northern side of Mykonos. The water was so clear and inviting that we had no hesitation in diving in for a refreshing swim. Sostis was the sort of beach where you could easily spend the day just lazing about. It was time to move on and Alice the navigator soon had us on the right track to Agrari Beach. After descending a very steep hill the welcoming wide stretch of golden sand was before us. It was well past lunch so the local restaurant offered us some respite to our hunger. To our surprise sitting at a large table was Julie, Doreen and the boys. They had only arrived some fifteen minutes before us.
Our waiter did not think our quads would be powerful enough to get our pillion passengers to the top of the hill so he offered to drive them up. Now that is exceptional customer service. The girls were happy with the offer and even more so after being chatted up by some randy Frenchmen. Back on the quads again and we traversed the hilly terrain in search of Elia Beach. We eventually found it and were pleasantly surprised by the beauty of it. Tony, Julie, Alice and I braved the icy the icy water and had a very refreshing swim. Allan meanwhile took his machine for a run up the steepest hill he could find. At this juncture we all separated and headed off to explore other areas.
Alice and I had to return the quad by 6:00pm so we went off to Ag. Ioannis where the movie Shirley Valentine was set. You could see it was the same beach but it was no longer in an isolated position. Somehow Allan and Doreen ended up at the same spot so we enjoyed the view and reminisced about the movie together. Our day ended with a light snack at Hora before jumping back on the bus to the hotel.
Day 40, 2nd June – Naxos
Our ferry today is departing at 10:15am so we had a leisurely breakfast before heading off. Tony and Allan followed the van in their quad bikes as they had to be returned to the dealer. At the ferry terminal Tony had another blonde moment when he noticed a wet patch on his tightly packed backpack. After removing several items we discovered that a full bottle of red wine had broken in his bag. We could not believe what he had managed to get in there. His cream colored jeans were now a bright pink and his favourite pork-pie hat and one lone sock had to be consigned to the rubbish bin. Amongst all this were other clothes, tea bags plus an assortment of disposable shavers. OMG!
On arrival at Naxos we were met by the manager of the Ilion Hotel who transported all of our luggage in her Mercedes. Our rooms were not ready so we took a relaxing lunch at one of the many restaurants that line the waterfront beneath the Kastro (castle). Eventually we made our way to the hotel where our 40.5euro rooms awaited us. The rooms were great and our small balconies all have a view of nearby Ag. Georgios beach. The weather was great so Tony and I took a swim while Allan had a long beach walk. The girls who do not need any beauty sleep managed to make time for a nanna nap. After our big lunch we only required a light meal so we settled on pizza for dinner.
Day 41, 3rd June – Bad Weather
Overnight the weather had deteriorated to an extent where a day at the beach was out of the question. Tony and Julie are spending time with her son James who has flown in from Munich to stay the next few days with us. After a sensational breakfast I hired a little Fiat Panda for 25euro. Allan and Doreen have joined us and after a couple of wrong turns we were off into the heartland of Naxos. After a short drive to Ag. Prokopis beach we made our way to the historical site of Dementer’s Sanctuary. The ruins here date back to the 6th century BC. Our next stop was at the mountain village of Chalki where they have a small Kitron distillery and crafts scene. Parking is difficult but thanks to the small size of the Panda we were able to find a space. The village is definitely worth a look around and a good place to have a coffee and a piece of custard tart.
The little Panda is a great car for navigating your way through the narrow confines of the village roads. We were mostly in second gear but occasionally I would let myself go by selecting the third gear. Talk about living on the edge. After travelling through Filoti we stopped at the quaint mountain village of Apeiranthos. There were a number of excellent tavernas all offering cheap food with excellent views from their mountain perches. I would definitely recommend spending a little more time here exploring the church and village. Our route took us past a few more villages before we saw the ocean and the small port of Apollonas. Doreen was a little car sick from all the winding roads and needed a good rest before continuing. This gave us a good opportunity to walk around and admire the view whilst nibbling on a few grilled prawns. It would have been more enjoyable if the wind and rain had kept away. The day was drawing to an end but we still had another 54km to travel before we could call it a day. This section was like being on The Great Ocean Road as we had great panoramic views of the ocean and small inlets.
It was a little after 6:00pm when we returned to the hotel for a well deserved cold beer and a hot shower. Tony was the star of the show this evening as he put on a small concert for us. His voice has a good timbre and he is able to inject feeling into his music. After receiving rapturous applause from his audience of six we headed off for dinner. His act wasn’t completely over as he pulled a shattered boiled egg from his man bag. He had squirreled it away when we were on Mykonos with the intention of devouring it for morning tea. The look on his face as he searched for a rubbish bin was priceless. As a side note the meal at Meltemi’s was great and reasonably priced (34euro per couple).
No need to hurry this morning as our first job is to purchase ferry tickets for our upcoming adventures of island hopping. A couple of legs are at night so we decided to get a couple of bunks which obviously increases the cost. All up the six legs have cost 488 euro per couple. The exercise took up a little time but we eventually caught the Athens Open Tour (yellow bus). The cost of 15euro for both the Athens and Piraeus tour for 48 hours was excellent value. We did the complete circuit and exited the tour at the Thession stop. This was a good opportunity to have lunch in the touristy area of Mitropoleos Street. We all tried something different but I can highly recommend the stuffed tomatoes with a huge Greek salad as a side.
With lunch over we all split up to give the girls the opportunity to troll the flea market. The queen of shopping, Julie to our surprise came back empty handed. It was time to jump back on the bus for a short trip to the Acropolis. Julie and Tony left the tour while we changed to the Piraeus tour. It was a hot day so it was good to be sitting in the open air on the top deck of the bus. One landmark that we were surprised to keep on seeing was the strip clubs. We stayed on the bus and had great views of the water. An hour later we were back at the Acropolis where we changed on to another bus. Doreen and Allan stayed on the bus while Alice and I went shopping for a Greece towel. We finished the day off with an excellent and reasonably priced meal at a restaurant recommended by our hotel. I can’t remember the name but it was located just off Omonia Square in Themistokleous Street.
Day 36, 29th May – A Day At The Museum
Julie and Tony are having a day off touring and have decided to have a browse around the local shops that surround Omonia Square. The hop on hop off bus has two stops within close proximity of our hotel. As a result we are avoiding having to pay ancillary travel costs on the metro. First stop today for Allan and Doreen was the Acropolis Museum where they had a good look at artifacts from the Parthenon. Alice went off to a Jewelry Museum and fortunately did not come back with any items.
After lunch we took a stroll through the Plaka district, Hadrians Gate and the Temple of Zeus. The highlight was watching the changing of the guard at the tomb of the Unknown Soldier next to Parliament House. Alice left us at this point and we continued onto the Acropolis. This is one historical site that you should not miss when visiting Athens. Our route to the Parthenon which is situated on top of the Acropolis took us past Dionysus Theatre, and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. Apart from the magnificent temples there is a great view of Athens and Filopappou Hill. Our route down took us through the Ancient Agora where I managed to have a relief stop behind an old pine tree. We had used up a fair bit of shoe leather but still had some energy to visit Hadrians Library. It was a little before 5:00pm so Doreen and Allan headed back to the hotel while I braved the subway. I was on a reconnaissance mission to figure out how we would use the public transport system to get to the port at Piraeus. For 1.4euro I was able to travel down to the port and then back to Omonia Square.
Back at the hotel Alice indulged me by taking me down to the local hairdresser. Alice gave her some instructions and within a few minutes I was looking handsome again. It was reasonably good value for 5euros. We had dinner at a little café behind our hotel which was selling gyros and other delicacies at local prices. After a good meal and quite a few drinks it was time to settle our account. Thirty Euros for four people was excellent value.
Day 37, 30th May – Ferry to Mykonos
We were up at 5:30am this morning as our ferry departs at 7:30am. I would highly recommend the Vienna Hotel as a great budget stay in Athens. The staff was excellent with advice on the area and even gave the girls a red rose each when we departed. Our public transport option worked a treat as the terminus is right at the port. At 6:30am there was plenty of room for our luggage and the journey time was 18 minutes. A short walk and we were soon on board Blue Star Ferries, travelling economy class (18euro) to Mykonos. The only mistake we made was not booking business class for this leg. There were hardly any seats available when we boarded as other passengers had already staked their claim. Thanks to Allan we ended up with a table which we spread our chairs around.
Our journey time was just under six hours and it was a relief to know that a van for our hotel, The Paradise View was there to meet us. This is the second time Alice and I have stayed at this hotel. Our room is probably the worst in the whole complex as it has no view or balcony. In saying this, our room is still comfortable and well appointed. I guess we were spoiled on our previous visit. The hotel is about 300m from Paradise Beach and situated on a hill which looks down a valley to the beach. It is a glorious outlook from the pool and breakfast area which makes up for the initial disappointment.
After settling in it was off to the beach to look at the young and beautiful cavorting to the incessant music beat. Doreen and Julie were amazed at one couple who obviously did not have any money. We deduced this as they could not afford the cost of any swimwear. There were not many in the water and after plunging in we knew why. Despite the hot weather the temperature was quite bracing. A couple of drinks on Tony and Julie’s expansive balcony, yes they have one finished of the afternoon. For our evening entertainment we jumped on the local bus and for 1.6euro we were deposited in Hora, Mykonos. We had a just reasonable meal that sated our hunger for 20euro a couple at a hole in the wall establishment.
The last bus back to our hotel departed at 9:15 so we took a stroll through the Mykonos maze. The streets or should I say laneways are paved with stone with the joints painted in white. They can afford to keep it maintained as there is a never ending stream of tourists tramping through them. The waterfront was packed and the water was luminous from the millions of lights that were ablaze. We stopped for a drink each at a bar in Little Venice, so called as the building footings are in the water. The ambience was great but the prohibitive cost of the drinks does make it a oncer. A ten euro cab ride and lots of thrills from our formula one driver finished off our evening.
Day 38, 31st May – Paradise Point Dive
It is a beautiful sunny day which should make for excellent diving and beach conditions. Allan and Doreen are sorting out high finances in downtown. The rest of us however have ambled down the hill to take advantage of the day. I have booked a dive with Mykonos Diving and at 60euro for a short boat dive it is comparable to Australian costs. After gearing up and looking like a navy seal we headed out to Paradise Point for my first dive in about two years. I was a little apprehensive as my ears have been playing up which may make it difficult to equalize. A nice backward roll off the side of the inflatable into the frigid water soon had my senses working. I knew I was alive when the water started to seep inside my wetsuit. I just managed to pop my ears as I dropped slowly to the ocean floor. The visibility was at least 25 metres and there was only a slight current. My dive buddy was making heavy weather of his descent and I could see him eating air as he bobbed up and down like a yoyo. The marine life was scarce but we did see a couple of small grouper. Our dive to a depth of 18 metres lasted about 45 minutes. Towards the end the cold started to seep into my bones so I was happy when it finished. The dive company was excellent and it was good to get wet again despite the lack of marine life.
By the time my dive had finished Tony and Julie had departed for the warmer clime of the shops in Hora. Alice and I trudged up the hill to relax by the pool however that was short lived as George the manager has found us a room with a balcony. Without hesitation our bags were quickly packed and with a short walk up the steps we were ensconced in a more salubrious room. The afternoon was drifting away so it was onto the bus for some sightseeing around town. As we alighted there were Tony and Julie waiting to take the bus back to the hotel for a late afternoon nap. Hastily we made arrangements to meet for dinner at 7:00pm at Kounelas Traditional Fish Tavern.
Alice and I spent the afternoon taking photographs of cats, windmills and churches. Judging by the number of cats that we have seen there appears to be a need for a spading program to reduce the numbers. Dinner in the garden setting was a culinary standout and the girls gave the grilled swordfish a ten out of ten. The complimentary wine that was served from a penis shaped bottle was a fine conclusion to the evening. Earlier in the afternoon I had hired a quad bike for exploring the island. It was with some trepidation that I mounted my trusty machine for the journey back to the hotel. Travelling at night on narrow roads in unfamiliar territory can be daunting but I needed to get the quad back to the hotel. I would like to say it was a breeze but I got hopelessly lost. In the end I pulled into a service station and they put me back on track. Even with my hopeless sense of direction I managed to get back to the hotel before the local bus.
Day 39, 1st June – In Search of Shirley Valentine
After breakfast Alice and I fired up our trusty quad bike and headed off to the City bus terminal where we had planned to meet the others. Our well laid plans came to a standstill when after climbing a rather steep hill our quad came to a standstill. I could not believe it, to my chagrin and in the middle of nowhere the blasted machine was out of petrol. My frustration was further compounded by the fact that I could have filled up the previous night when asking for directions. While considering our options the local bus trundled into view so I grabbed the opportunity and headed into town where the hire place was located. He looked at me with disdain but gave me a litre of fuel to get us going again. I had just enough time to jump back on the bus heading out of town. Alice had guarded our machine with her life and after replenishing it’s fuel supply we were finally ready to start the day. The others should have been in town waiting for us but they had fared no better than us. Their pickup failed to arrive until 11:30am so they were delayed even longer than us. In the end we gave up waiting and headed off to Ag. Sostis and Panormos beaches on the northern side of Mykonos. The water was so clear and inviting that we had no hesitation in diving in for a refreshing swim. Sostis was the sort of beach where you could easily spend the day just lazing about. It was time to move on and Alice the navigator soon had us on the right track to Agrari Beach. After descending a very steep hill the welcoming wide stretch of golden sand was before us. It was well past lunch so the local restaurant offered us some respite to our hunger. To our surprise sitting at a large table was Julie, Doreen and the boys. They had only arrived some fifteen minutes before us.
Our waiter did not think our quads would be powerful enough to get our pillion passengers to the top of the hill so he offered to drive them up. Now that is exceptional customer service. The girls were happy with the offer and even more so after being chatted up by some randy Frenchmen. Back on the quads again and we traversed the hilly terrain in search of Elia Beach. We eventually found it and were pleasantly surprised by the beauty of it. Tony, Julie, Alice and I braved the icy the icy water and had a very refreshing swim. Allan meanwhile took his machine for a run up the steepest hill he could find. At this juncture we all separated and headed off to explore other areas.
Alice and I had to return the quad by 6:00pm so we went off to Ag. Ioannis where the movie Shirley Valentine was set. You could see it was the same beach but it was no longer in an isolated position. Somehow Allan and Doreen ended up at the same spot so we enjoyed the view and reminisced about the movie together. Our day ended with a light snack at Hora before jumping back on the bus to the hotel.
Day 40, 2nd June – Naxos
Our ferry today is departing at 10:15am so we had a leisurely breakfast before heading off. Tony and Allan followed the van in their quad bikes as they had to be returned to the dealer. At the ferry terminal Tony had another blonde moment when he noticed a wet patch on his tightly packed backpack. After removing several items we discovered that a full bottle of red wine had broken in his bag. We could not believe what he had managed to get in there. His cream colored jeans were now a bright pink and his favourite pork-pie hat and one lone sock had to be consigned to the rubbish bin. Amongst all this were other clothes, tea bags plus an assortment of disposable shavers. OMG!
On arrival at Naxos we were met by the manager of the Ilion Hotel who transported all of our luggage in her Mercedes. Our rooms were not ready so we took a relaxing lunch at one of the many restaurants that line the waterfront beneath the Kastro (castle). Eventually we made our way to the hotel where our 40.5euro rooms awaited us. The rooms were great and our small balconies all have a view of nearby Ag. Georgios beach. The weather was great so Tony and I took a swim while Allan had a long beach walk. The girls who do not need any beauty sleep managed to make time for a nanna nap. After our big lunch we only required a light meal so we settled on pizza for dinner.
Day 41, 3rd June – Bad Weather
Overnight the weather had deteriorated to an extent where a day at the beach was out of the question. Tony and Julie are spending time with her son James who has flown in from Munich to stay the next few days with us. After a sensational breakfast I hired a little Fiat Panda for 25euro. Allan and Doreen have joined us and after a couple of wrong turns we were off into the heartland of Naxos. After a short drive to Ag. Prokopis beach we made our way to the historical site of Dementer’s Sanctuary. The ruins here date back to the 6th century BC. Our next stop was at the mountain village of Chalki where they have a small Kitron distillery and crafts scene. Parking is difficult but thanks to the small size of the Panda we were able to find a space. The village is definitely worth a look around and a good place to have a coffee and a piece of custard tart.
The little Panda is a great car for navigating your way through the narrow confines of the village roads. We were mostly in second gear but occasionally I would let myself go by selecting the third gear. Talk about living on the edge. After travelling through Filoti we stopped at the quaint mountain village of Apeiranthos. There were a number of excellent tavernas all offering cheap food with excellent views from their mountain perches. I would definitely recommend spending a little more time here exploring the church and village. Our route took us past a few more villages before we saw the ocean and the small port of Apollonas. Doreen was a little car sick from all the winding roads and needed a good rest before continuing. This gave us a good opportunity to walk around and admire the view whilst nibbling on a few grilled prawns. It would have been more enjoyable if the wind and rain had kept away. The day was drawing to an end but we still had another 54km to travel before we could call it a day. This section was like being on The Great Ocean Road as we had great panoramic views of the ocean and small inlets.
It was a little after 6:00pm when we returned to the hotel for a well deserved cold beer and a hot shower. Tony was the star of the show this evening as he put on a small concert for us. His voice has a good timbre and he is able to inject feeling into his music. After receiving rapturous applause from his audience of six we headed off for dinner. His act wasn’t completely over as he pulled a shattered boiled egg from his man bag. He had squirreled it away when we were on Mykonos with the intention of devouring it for morning tea. The look on his face as he searched for a rubbish bin was priceless. As a side note the meal at Meltemi’s was great and reasonably priced (34euro per couple).
Wednesday, June 4, 2014
I Heart NY
NEW YORK
Day 29, 22nd May – Happy Birthday Julie, New York
Poor Julie could not sleep in on her birthday as we had to be up at 4:30am this morning to catch the 6:35am Amtrak train from Niagara Falls, USA to New York. Our taxi arrived at 5:15am for our short and expensive $69 trip to the station. It is a flat fare and expensive due to the unknown factor of how long the border crossing will be. At 5:30am in the morning we were the only ones in the queue and after exchanging a few formalities we were across the border in a couple of minutes. There was a 45 minute wait before the train departed. Our business class seats give us plenty of leg room, wi-fi and free coffee and soft drinks. The countryside is very green and our route takes us through the farming communities of what I believe is upstate New York. The towns we are travelling through prior to our arrival at Penn Station include Buffalo, Rochester, Syracuse, Rome, Amsterdam (sounds like we are already in Europe) Schenectady, Albany and Yonkers. It is a nine hour trip and a great way to see the countryside. Of course one of the real benefits is that you arrive in the midtown New York. In our case we will be about 2km from the Gotham Hotel which we have booked for the next four nights. The last couple of hours the train followed the Hudson River which was quite spectacular. The railways were lucky in the fact that they had the ability to choose their routes prior to the invention of the motor vehicle.
The train pulled into Penn Station about 30 minutes late. Once we had navigated our way through the endless underground maze we emerged into the daylight on Seventh Avenue. Luckily for us the footpaths were nice and wide and it was not raining. The queue for taxis was quite long so we opted to walk to our hotel. Pedestrian traffic on Fifth Avenue was light and as a result it took about 30 minutes to walk to the Gotham. Check-in was smooth but there was a little confusion about the hotel taxes we had to pay. Our rooms are exceptional and the $175 per night that we had pre-paid seemed like a bargain as their web site is currently advertising the same room for $335 per night.
A quick takeaway meal from one of the local delis and we were off to celebrate Julie’s birthday. The event we have chosen is Mowton the Musical. With 2nd row, centre seats on the mezzanine level we had a fantastic night. The show is basically the story of Barry Gordy and the cast as well as the musical numbers chosen for the show were exceptional. Songs like My Girl, I Heard It Through The Grapevine and ABC were some of the great standards that were performed. As a musical it was up there with the Jersey Boys. I can’t end today’s diary without a mention of Times Square. The kaleidoscope of colours that emanated from the neon signs and the crush of humanity made it a space that all people could enjoy.
Day 30, 23rd May – New York
Woke up this morning at 9:00am after a night of broken sleep. At around 4:00am I started thinking about the hotel tax that the city of New York had imposed upon us. I had seen a pending charge on my credit card for $US400 and thought that the hotel tax was $350 for four nights. The reason for my distress was the cheap cost of the room compared to the usual nightly rate. In the morning I checked with the reception and it turned out that the $400 charge was $100 day for any incidentals that we may incur. The hotel tax was only $3.50 per night which meant an extra $14. I think I will sleep better tonight.
With such a late start to the day the girls decided that it would be worthwhile checking out the famous Woodbury Common premium Outlet. There were plenty of other shopping tragics lined up for the $42 round trip. Hopefully, a good account of their shopping exploits will follow later in the journal. Tony and I on the other hand thought we would brave the underground and catch the tube to Greenwich Village. After some initial failures Tony and I managed to purchase a 10 trip ticket and then find our way to the correct line. When we emerged from the underground we were on the edge of Greenwich Village. Hunger was overcoming us so we settled for a couple of slices of cheap pizza at an establishment next to the famous Vanguard Jazz club.
Tony and I were in the mood for some culture so we took a stroll through the village to get a vibe on life here. There were plenty of colourful pedestrians hustling along the sidewalk and just as many cafes where you could stop to slurp on a latte. Our walk took us past Christopher Park and 66 Perry Street which was Carrie Bradshaw’s stoop in Sex and the City. A Japanese film crew was on location and we nearly got a part in the movie. At 90 Bedford Street some locals asked why everyone was taking photographs of the nondescript building. I had to tell them that it was the apartment block of the fictitious home of the cast from Friends. After stopping for a look at Café Wha where some great artists like Bob Dylan and Bruce Springsteen played in their early days we finished at Washington Square Park. There seemed to be a regular crowd of semi professional chess players who were eager to challenge any of the passersby. It was late afternoon when we headed back uptown. When we emerged from the subway the rain had started to drizzle down. To pass the time as we waited for the girls to return from the Catskills we sucked back on a couple of beers.
Around 7:00pm the girls returned with bags of goodies that Tony and I will have to carry up and down the stairs of the hotels still to follow. The rain had set in for the evening so dinner was taken at a nearby Turkish restaurant.
Day 31, 24th May – Hop On, Hop Off New York
Our early morning wake-up call for this morning failed to eventuate. As a result it was nearly 10:30am before we were ready to hit the pavement. Julie and Tony are catching up with Juleen so Alice and I will head off on our own for some exploring. We chose the $34 Gonytours bus which offered a one day tour of the downtown area. For an extra $10 you can upgrade to a 3 day all routes tour. At the Rockefeller Center we boarded our tour bus and were soon cruising down the avenues taking in all the famous landmarks. The only disappointment was that the commentary was not working. At City Hall we alighted from the bus and followed the crowds to the 9/11 Memorial. We found a space at the edge of the memorial and contemplated the tragic loss of lives that occurred on this day. One gesture that helps you remember the poignancy of this day is that a white rose is placed next to a person’s name on the day that their birthday falls. The museum is now open but construction on the site is still occurring.
After a bite to eat we headed off in the direction of Battery Park. We thought about spending $18 each for the ferry to Liberty Island but the queue was exceedingly long. This was to be expected as we are in New York for the Memorial Day long weekend. The bright orange Staten Island Ferry was just pulling into the quay so we high-tailed it to see if we could get on board. We were delayed slightly while a Labrador sniffed Alice’s bag for explosives but managed to get on board. The ferry is free and sails past Liberty Island giving you a great view of the Statue of Liberty. Even from the ferry you could see the throngs milling about the base of the statue. On this occasion taking the one hour return trip on the ferry was the best option.
Back on the bus and we sped down West Street which is adjacent to the Hudson River. The guide pointed out Hugh Jackman’s apartment and Pier 61 where Law and Order is filmed, bom, bom. We alighted at 42nd Street and walked up through Times Square. It was after 4:00pm and it looked like it may rain so we headed back to the Gotham for some rest before dinner.
The six of us were going out for dinner and our destination was Little Italy. After consulting the subway map we decided to catch route 6 from Grand Central station. This station certainly has the wow factor. Cornelius Vanderbilt the 19th century shipping and railroad magnate set about converting the old station into a 20th century showpiece. This most breathtaking beaux arts building is like an enchanted time machine. With its swirl of chandeliers, marble, historic bars and restaurants it is a porthole into an era where train travel and romance were not mutually exclusive. After some initial failures we found our subway line and headed off downtown. Luckily, we had chosen the correct station to alight and with a little help from some locals we were soon walking through the streets of Little Italy. There was a local market happening with stalls, food and carnival games. The streets were cordoned off and the most difficult decision was choosing a restaurant.
Our delicious meal was finished just after 10:00pm and our next challenge was to find our way to Greenwich Village. Once again we consulted our map and correctly navigated our way to the Village. We headed to the Vanguard for some jazz but their 10:30 show was sold out. There was plenty of activity all around us and I thought we must have been in the Valley. We did a tour of the streets soaking up the scene but due to our early start tomorrow we opted to call it a night. Back on the E line and we were soon in the area where our hotels are located.
Day 32, 25th May – Harlem and Gospel
Our wake-up call for 7:00am did eventuate this morning and after some cereal and coffee we hit the footpath to the meeting point for our Harlem Gospel tour. Tony’s sister and husband are also travelling with us this morning and we are all looking forward to this morning adventure. Our guide had an extensive knowledge of New York and rattled off facts and figures with bullet like speed. I kept wondering when she would come up for a breath of air. Harlem was not what I expected as the neighbourhood even in the poorer sections was well maintained. You would not feel frightened walking around here in daylight hours. We made a stop at the only remaining Georgian mansion remaining in New York. It is historically important as it was George Washington’s headquarters during the war of independence.
On arrival at the church we were warmly greeted by the parishioners. The band was in full swing and voice as they belted out some gospel songs. The singing was only interrupted by some church announcements and a short prayer. Different members of the choir took lead roles and each had a fantastic voice. Tony and Julie even had happy birthday sung to them. The female parishioners were undulating, clapping and vociferous with their amen’s and hallelujah’s. I think we need more of this free flowing worship in our own churches. We left at around 12:30 pm as the pastor apparently preaches for about two hours.
Back on the bus and we were off to the Cotton Club, the original burnt down, for a southern style buffet lunch. There was a fine selection of food on offer including black eyed beans and fried crumbed chicken. It was a delicious offering and so good that I went back for seconds. They had a band with a blues/jazz singer and despite her advancing years she could still belt out a number as well as engaging the audience. Her best number was the old gospel classic “Oh Happy Day”. The bus was ready to depart at 2:00pm and so we reluctantly departed the Cotton Club.
Alice and I decided to do some shopping for our girls so it was back on the subway for some more exploration. After finding our store and making a few purchases that will unfortunately go into my bag, it was back to the hotel for an afternoon nap. I was completely knackered and fell asleep with a beer in my hand. If not for Tony I may have missed the curtain call for tonight’s show. Julie recommended the bar at the Renaissance Hotel for a pre- show drink as it has great views of Time Square. She was 100% correct and I would recommend it to anyone visiting New York. Our show tonight is at the Helen Hayes theatre on 44th street. We are lucky enough to have front row, middle seats on the mezzanine level for the 80’s spoof Rock Of Ages. The music was more late eighties with a heavier sound of Twisted Sister and Def Lepoard. It was a reasonable storyline of unrequited love with lot of comedy and great songs. We enjoyed the second act more than the first and thought Mowtown was the better musical for people of our vintage. The only sour note of the evening is that I lost my only pair of reading glasses. Luckily, Alice had a pair of cheap glasses from the chemist as a backup.
Day 33, 26th May – New York to Munich
There was no need to wake up early this morning as we do not have to check out until midday. After purchasing a couple of lattes for breakfast the morning was spent packing bags and catching up on the diary. Our flight to Munich and then Athens on Lufthansa does not depart until 5:25pm. We have decided to use public transport so it was shanks pony to 53rd Street where we caught the uptown line to the second last stop and then transfer to the JFK airtrain. The cost was $2.50 for the subway plus $6.00 for the airtrain. Apart from having to carry our bags down the disability unfriendly steps at 53rd Street it was an easy journey to undertake. Slightly under 1 hour travel time plus our walking time from the hotel made it comparable to a taxi and much cheaper even with four passengers.
We said goodbye to Julie and Tony as they are travelling on Swiss Air from terminal 4 to Athens via Zurich. Our check-in time at terminal 1 was less than 30 minutes including security. The fact that we were early may have contributed to the ease of our check-in. Our priority pass will give us access to the KAL lounge which is right next to the security check point. That was very convenient as it gives Alice and I ample opportunity to relax in comfort before boarding commences at 4:55pm. Well our flight was ready to depart on time however an extra long queue of departing flights kept us on the tarmac for 50 minutes. We can only hope that the pilot puts the pedal to the metal as we only have a 55 minute window to board our connecting flight to Athens. In one way our allotted seats are perfect as they are a set of two just behind business class which will allow us a quick interchange at Munich. The downside was that they were next to the toilets which meant no sleep due to the vacuum sound from the toilet flushing. This is the first time we have flown Lufthansa and I can comment favorably on their service and German efficiency. The food was excellent and the smooth cognac that I am sipping as I type this dissertation is heavenly. Wi-Fi is available on this flight but because I am cheap and will not spend the 11.5 Euros you will not receive any emails until we reach Greece.
GREECE
Day 34, 27th May – Munich to Athens
Our flight picked up some time and Alice and I disembarked at 8:00am. As luck would have it we were at the extreme end of the terminal and we must have looked a sight as we sprinted down the long passageway. After clearing immigration we went down the stairs to the next level and sprinted once again to the far end directly beneath where we started. In the end we made it with 7 minutes to spare and would you believe the flight departed 15 minutes late.
Our flight to Athens was uneventful and our only delay was the wait for our baggage. Once again I have opted for public transport and for a mere 5 euro per person we booked a slot on the X95 bus to the city centre. Once there we transferred to the metro and travelled two stops to Omonia Square. From here it was a short walk to the $42 per night Vienna Hotel which includes breakfast. The room is surprisingly big and is in reasonable condition. Julie and Tony arrived around 3:30pm with Allan and Doreen arriving 90 minutes later. They both look shattered after their long haul and have opted to sleep. The four of us headed off to a local eatery and had a good nosh of gyros, beer and wine. Our dish was so huge that we barely put a dint in it. The cost probably worked out at around $15 per head. Needing to work off our dinner we took the girls for a walk and guided them past a few fashion houses. Julie was duly tempted and bought another pair of pants.
Day 29, 22nd May – Happy Birthday Julie, New York
Poor Julie could not sleep in on her birthday as we had to be up at 4:30am this morning to catch the 6:35am Amtrak train from Niagara Falls, USA to New York. Our taxi arrived at 5:15am for our short and expensive $69 trip to the station. It is a flat fare and expensive due to the unknown factor of how long the border crossing will be. At 5:30am in the morning we were the only ones in the queue and after exchanging a few formalities we were across the border in a couple of minutes. There was a 45 minute wait before the train departed. Our business class seats give us plenty of leg room, wi-fi and free coffee and soft drinks. The countryside is very green and our route takes us through the farming communities of what I believe is upstate New York. The towns we are travelling through prior to our arrival at Penn Station include Buffalo, Rochester, Syracuse, Rome, Amsterdam (sounds like we are already in Europe) Schenectady, Albany and Yonkers. It is a nine hour trip and a great way to see the countryside. Of course one of the real benefits is that you arrive in the midtown New York. In our case we will be about 2km from the Gotham Hotel which we have booked for the next four nights. The last couple of hours the train followed the Hudson River which was quite spectacular. The railways were lucky in the fact that they had the ability to choose their routes prior to the invention of the motor vehicle.
A quick takeaway meal from one of the local delis and we were off to celebrate Julie’s birthday. The event we have chosen is Mowton the Musical. With 2nd row, centre seats on the mezzanine level we had a fantastic night. The show is basically the story of Barry Gordy and the cast as well as the musical numbers chosen for the show were exceptional. Songs like My Girl, I Heard It Through The Grapevine and ABC were some of the great standards that were performed. As a musical it was up there with the Jersey Boys. I can’t end today’s diary without a mention of Times Square. The kaleidoscope of colours that emanated from the neon signs and the crush of humanity made it a space that all people could enjoy.
Day 30, 23rd May – New York
Woke up this morning at 9:00am after a night of broken sleep. At around 4:00am I started thinking about the hotel tax that the city of New York had imposed upon us. I had seen a pending charge on my credit card for $US400 and thought that the hotel tax was $350 for four nights. The reason for my distress was the cheap cost of the room compared to the usual nightly rate. In the morning I checked with the reception and it turned out that the $400 charge was $100 day for any incidentals that we may incur. The hotel tax was only $3.50 per night which meant an extra $14. I think I will sleep better tonight.
With such a late start to the day the girls decided that it would be worthwhile checking out the famous Woodbury Common premium Outlet. There were plenty of other shopping tragics lined up for the $42 round trip. Hopefully, a good account of their shopping exploits will follow later in the journal. Tony and I on the other hand thought we would brave the underground and catch the tube to Greenwich Village. After some initial failures Tony and I managed to purchase a 10 trip ticket and then find our way to the correct line. When we emerged from the underground we were on the edge of Greenwich Village. Hunger was overcoming us so we settled for a couple of slices of cheap pizza at an establishment next to the famous Vanguard Jazz club.
Around 7:00pm the girls returned with bags of goodies that Tony and I will have to carry up and down the stairs of the hotels still to follow. The rain had set in for the evening so dinner was taken at a nearby Turkish restaurant.
Day 31, 24th May – Hop On, Hop Off New York
Our early morning wake-up call for this morning failed to eventuate. As a result it was nearly 10:30am before we were ready to hit the pavement. Julie and Tony are catching up with Juleen so Alice and I will head off on our own for some exploring. We chose the $34 Gonytours bus which offered a one day tour of the downtown area. For an extra $10 you can upgrade to a 3 day all routes tour. At the Rockefeller Center we boarded our tour bus and were soon cruising down the avenues taking in all the famous landmarks. The only disappointment was that the commentary was not working. At City Hall we alighted from the bus and followed the crowds to the 9/11 Memorial. We found a space at the edge of the memorial and contemplated the tragic loss of lives that occurred on this day. One gesture that helps you remember the poignancy of this day is that a white rose is placed next to a person’s name on the day that their birthday falls. The museum is now open but construction on the site is still occurring.
After a bite to eat we headed off in the direction of Battery Park. We thought about spending $18 each for the ferry to Liberty Island but the queue was exceedingly long. This was to be expected as we are in New York for the Memorial Day long weekend. The bright orange Staten Island Ferry was just pulling into the quay so we high-tailed it to see if we could get on board. We were delayed slightly while a Labrador sniffed Alice’s bag for explosives but managed to get on board. The ferry is free and sails past Liberty Island giving you a great view of the Statue of Liberty. Even from the ferry you could see the throngs milling about the base of the statue. On this occasion taking the one hour return trip on the ferry was the best option.
Back on the bus and we sped down West Street which is adjacent to the Hudson River. The guide pointed out Hugh Jackman’s apartment and Pier 61 where Law and Order is filmed, bom, bom. We alighted at 42nd Street and walked up through Times Square. It was after 4:00pm and it looked like it may rain so we headed back to the Gotham for some rest before dinner.
Our delicious meal was finished just after 10:00pm and our next challenge was to find our way to Greenwich Village. Once again we consulted our map and correctly navigated our way to the Village. We headed to the Vanguard for some jazz but their 10:30 show was sold out. There was plenty of activity all around us and I thought we must have been in the Valley. We did a tour of the streets soaking up the scene but due to our early start tomorrow we opted to call it a night. Back on the E line and we were soon in the area where our hotels are located.
Day 32, 25th May – Harlem and Gospel
Our wake-up call for 7:00am did eventuate this morning and after some cereal and coffee we hit the footpath to the meeting point for our Harlem Gospel tour. Tony’s sister and husband are also travelling with us this morning and we are all looking forward to this morning adventure. Our guide had an extensive knowledge of New York and rattled off facts and figures with bullet like speed. I kept wondering when she would come up for a breath of air. Harlem was not what I expected as the neighbourhood even in the poorer sections was well maintained. You would not feel frightened walking around here in daylight hours. We made a stop at the only remaining Georgian mansion remaining in New York. It is historically important as it was George Washington’s headquarters during the war of independence.
On arrival at the church we were warmly greeted by the parishioners. The band was in full swing and voice as they belted out some gospel songs. The singing was only interrupted by some church announcements and a short prayer. Different members of the choir took lead roles and each had a fantastic voice. Tony and Julie even had happy birthday sung to them. The female parishioners were undulating, clapping and vociferous with their amen’s and hallelujah’s. I think we need more of this free flowing worship in our own churches. We left at around 12:30 pm as the pastor apparently preaches for about two hours.
Back on the bus and we were off to the Cotton Club, the original burnt down, for a southern style buffet lunch. There was a fine selection of food on offer including black eyed beans and fried crumbed chicken. It was a delicious offering and so good that I went back for seconds. They had a band with a blues/jazz singer and despite her advancing years she could still belt out a number as well as engaging the audience. Her best number was the old gospel classic “Oh Happy Day”. The bus was ready to depart at 2:00pm and so we reluctantly departed the Cotton Club.
Day 33, 26th May – New York to Munich
There was no need to wake up early this morning as we do not have to check out until midday. After purchasing a couple of lattes for breakfast the morning was spent packing bags and catching up on the diary. Our flight to Munich and then Athens on Lufthansa does not depart until 5:25pm. We have decided to use public transport so it was shanks pony to 53rd Street where we caught the uptown line to the second last stop and then transfer to the JFK airtrain. The cost was $2.50 for the subway plus $6.00 for the airtrain. Apart from having to carry our bags down the disability unfriendly steps at 53rd Street it was an easy journey to undertake. Slightly under 1 hour travel time plus our walking time from the hotel made it comparable to a taxi and much cheaper even with four passengers.
We said goodbye to Julie and Tony as they are travelling on Swiss Air from terminal 4 to Athens via Zurich. Our check-in time at terminal 1 was less than 30 minutes including security. The fact that we were early may have contributed to the ease of our check-in. Our priority pass will give us access to the KAL lounge which is right next to the security check point. That was very convenient as it gives Alice and I ample opportunity to relax in comfort before boarding commences at 4:55pm. Well our flight was ready to depart on time however an extra long queue of departing flights kept us on the tarmac for 50 minutes. We can only hope that the pilot puts the pedal to the metal as we only have a 55 minute window to board our connecting flight to Athens. In one way our allotted seats are perfect as they are a set of two just behind business class which will allow us a quick interchange at Munich. The downside was that they were next to the toilets which meant no sleep due to the vacuum sound from the toilet flushing. This is the first time we have flown Lufthansa and I can comment favorably on their service and German efficiency. The food was excellent and the smooth cognac that I am sipping as I type this dissertation is heavenly. Wi-Fi is available on this flight but because I am cheap and will not spend the 11.5 Euros you will not receive any emails until we reach Greece.
GREECE
Day 34, 27th May – Munich to Athens
Our flight picked up some time and Alice and I disembarked at 8:00am. As luck would have it we were at the extreme end of the terminal and we must have looked a sight as we sprinted down the long passageway. After clearing immigration we went down the stairs to the next level and sprinted once again to the far end directly beneath where we started. In the end we made it with 7 minutes to spare and would you believe the flight departed 15 minutes late.
Our flight to Athens was uneventful and our only delay was the wait for our baggage. Once again I have opted for public transport and for a mere 5 euro per person we booked a slot on the X95 bus to the city centre. Once there we transferred to the metro and travelled two stops to Omonia Square. From here it was a short walk to the $42 per night Vienna Hotel which includes breakfast. The room is surprisingly big and is in reasonable condition. Julie and Tony arrived around 3:30pm with Allan and Doreen arriving 90 minutes later. They both look shattered after their long haul and have opted to sleep. The four of us headed off to a local eatery and had a good nosh of gyros, beer and wine. Our dish was so huge that we barely put a dint in it. The cost probably worked out at around $15 per head. Needing to work off our dinner we took the girls for a walk and guided them past a few fashion houses. Julie was duly tempted and bought another pair of pants.
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