I Heart NY

NEW YORK

Day 29, 22nd May – Happy Birthday Julie, New York

Poor Julie could not sleep in on her birthday as we had to be up at 4:30am this morning to catch the 6:35am Amtrak train from Niagara Falls, USA to New York. Our taxi arrived at 5:15am for our short and expensive $69 trip to the station. It is a flat fare and expensive due to the unknown factor of how long the border crossing will be. At 5:30am in the morning we were the only ones in the queue and after exchanging a few formalities we were across the border in a couple of minutes. There was a 45 minute wait before the train departed. Our business class seats give us plenty of leg room, wi-fi and free coffee and soft drinks. The countryside is very green and our route takes us through the farming communities of what I believe is upstate New York. The towns we are travelling through prior to our arrival at Penn Station include Buffalo, Rochester, Syracuse, Rome, Amsterdam (sounds like we are already in Europe) Schenectady, Albany and Yonkers. It is a nine hour trip and a great way to see the countryside. Of course one of the real benefits is that you arrive in the midtown New York. In our case we will be about 2km from the Gotham Hotel which we have booked for the next four nights. The last couple of hours the train followed the Hudson River which was quite spectacular. The railways were lucky in the fact that they had the ability to choose their routes prior to the invention of the motor vehicle.

The train pulled into Penn Station about 30 minutes late. Once we had navigated our way through the endless underground maze we emerged into the daylight on Seventh Avenue. Luckily for us the footpaths were nice and wide and it was not raining. The queue for taxis was quite long so we opted to walk to our hotel. Pedestrian traffic on Fifth Avenue was light and as a result it took about 30 minutes to walk to the Gotham. Check-in was smooth but there was a little confusion about the hotel taxes we had to pay. Our rooms are exceptional and the $175 per night that we had pre-paid seemed like a bargain as their web site is currently advertising the same room for $335 per night.

A quick takeaway meal from one of the local delis and we were off to celebrate Julie’s birthday. The event we have chosen is Mowton the Musical. With 2nd row, centre seats on the mezzanine level we had a fantastic night. The show is basically the story of Barry Gordy and the cast as well as the musical numbers chosen for the show were exceptional. Songs like My Girl, I Heard It Through The Grapevine and ABC were some of the great standards that were performed. As a musical it was up there with the Jersey Boys. I can’t end today’s diary without a mention of Times Square. The kaleidoscope of colours that emanated from the neon signs and the crush of humanity made it a space that all people could enjoy.

Day 30, 23rd May – New York

Woke up this morning at 9:00am after a night of broken sleep. At around 4:00am I started thinking about the hotel tax that the city of New York had imposed upon us. I had seen a pending charge on my credit card for $US400 and thought that the hotel tax was $350 for four nights. The reason for my distress was the cheap cost of the room compared to the usual nightly rate. In the morning I checked with the reception and it turned out that the $400 charge was $100 day for any incidentals that we may incur. The hotel tax was only $3.50 per night which meant an extra $14. I think I will sleep better tonight.

With such a late start to the day the girls decided that it would be worthwhile checking out the famous Woodbury Common premium Outlet. There were plenty of other shopping tragics lined up for the $42 round trip.  Hopefully, a good account of their shopping exploits will follow later in the journal. Tony and I on the other hand thought we would brave the underground and catch the tube to Greenwich Village. After some initial failures Tony and I managed to purchase a 10 trip ticket and then find our way to the correct line. When we emerged from the underground we were on the edge of Greenwich Village. Hunger was overcoming us so we settled for a couple of slices of cheap pizza at an establishment next to the famous Vanguard Jazz club.

Tony and I were in the mood for some culture so we took a stroll through the village to get a vibe on life here. There were plenty of colourful pedestrians hustling along the sidewalk and just as many cafes where you could stop to slurp on a latte. Our walk took us past Christopher Park and 66 Perry Street which was Carrie Bradshaw’s stoop in Sex and the City. A Japanese film crew was on location and we nearly got a part in the movie. At 90 Bedford Street some locals asked why everyone was taking photographs of the nondescript building. I had to tell them that it was the apartment block of the fictitious home of the cast from Friends. After stopping for a look at Café Wha where some great artists like Bob Dylan and Bruce Springsteen played in their early days we finished at Washington Square Park. There seemed to be a regular crowd of semi professional chess players who were eager to challenge any of the passersby. It was late afternoon when we headed back uptown. When we emerged from the subway the rain had started to drizzle down. To pass the time as we waited for the girls to return from the Catskills we sucked back on a couple of beers.

Around 7:00pm the girls returned with bags of goodies that Tony and I will have to carry up and down the stairs of the hotels still to follow. The rain had set in for the evening so dinner was taken at a nearby Turkish restaurant.

Day 31, 24th May – Hop On, Hop Off New York

Our early morning wake-up call for this morning failed to eventuate. As a result it was nearly 10:30am before we were ready to hit the pavement. Julie and Tony are catching up with Juleen so Alice and I will head off on our own for some exploring. We chose the $34 Gonytours bus which offered a one day tour of the downtown area. For an extra $10 you can upgrade to a 3 day all routes tour. At the Rockefeller Center we boarded our tour bus and were soon cruising down the avenues taking in all the famous landmarks. The only disappointment was that the commentary was not working. At City Hall we alighted from the bus and followed the crowds to the 9/11 Memorial. We found a space at the edge of the memorial and contemplated the tragic loss of lives that occurred on this day. One gesture that helps you remember the poignancy of this day is that a white rose is placed next to a person’s name on the day that their birthday falls. The museum is now open but construction on the site is still occurring.

After a bite to eat we headed off in the direction of Battery Park. We thought about spending $18 each for the ferry to Liberty Island but the queue was exceedingly long. This was to be expected as we are in New York for the Memorial Day long weekend. The bright orange Staten Island Ferry was just pulling into the quay so we high-tailed it to see if we could get on board. We were delayed slightly while a Labrador sniffed Alice’s bag for explosives but managed to get on board. The ferry is free and sails past Liberty Island giving you a great view of the Statue of Liberty. Even from the ferry you could see the throngs milling about the base of the statue. On this occasion taking the one hour return trip on the ferry was the best option.

Back on the bus and we sped down West Street which is adjacent to the Hudson River. The guide pointed out Hugh Jackman’s apartment and Pier 61 where Law and Order is filmed, bom, bom. We alighted at 42nd Street and walked up through Times Square. It was after 4:00pm and it looked like it may rain so we headed back to the Gotham for some rest before dinner.

The six of us were going out for dinner and our destination was Little Italy. After consulting the subway map we decided to catch route 6 from Grand Central station. This station certainly has the wow factor. Cornelius Vanderbilt the 19th century shipping and railroad magnate set about converting the old station into a 20th century showpiece. This most breathtaking beaux arts building is like an enchanted time machine. With its swirl of chandeliers, marble, historic bars and restaurants it is a porthole into an era where train travel and romance were not mutually exclusive. After some initial failures we found our subway line and headed off downtown. Luckily, we had chosen the correct station to alight and with a little help from some locals we were soon walking through the streets of Little Italy. There was a local market happening with stalls, food and carnival games. The streets were cordoned off and the most difficult decision was choosing a restaurant.

Our delicious meal was finished just after 10:00pm and our next challenge was to find our way to Greenwich Village. Once again we consulted our map and correctly navigated our way to the Village. We headed to the Vanguard for some jazz but their 10:30 show was sold out. There was plenty of activity all around us and I thought we must have been in the Valley. We did a tour of the streets soaking up the scene but due to our early start tomorrow we opted to call it a night. Back on the E line and we were soon in the area where our hotels are located.

Day 32, 25th May – Harlem and Gospel

Our wake-up call for 7:00am did eventuate this morning and after some cereal and coffee we hit the footpath to the meeting point for our Harlem Gospel tour. Tony’s sister and husband are also travelling with us this morning and we are all looking forward to this morning adventure. Our guide had an extensive knowledge of New York and rattled off facts and figures with bullet like speed. I kept wondering when she would come up for a breath of air. Harlem was not what I expected as the neighbourhood even in the poorer sections was well maintained. You would not feel frightened walking around here in daylight hours. We made a stop at the only remaining Georgian mansion remaining in New York. It is historically important as it was George Washington’s headquarters during the war of independence.

On arrival at the church we were warmly greeted by the parishioners. The band was in full swing and voice as they belted out some gospel songs. The singing was only interrupted by some church announcements and a short prayer. Different members of the choir took lead roles and each had a fantastic voice. Tony and Julie even had happy birthday sung to them. The female parishioners were undulating, clapping and vociferous with their amen’s and hallelujah’s. I think we need more of this free flowing worship in our own churches. We left at around 12:30 pm as the pastor apparently preaches for about two hours.

Back on the bus and we were off to the Cotton Club, the original burnt down, for a southern style buffet lunch. There was a fine selection of food on offer including black eyed beans and fried crumbed chicken. It was a delicious offering and so good that I went back for seconds. They had a band with a blues/jazz singer and despite her advancing years she could still belt out a number as well as engaging the audience. Her best number was the old gospel classic “Oh Happy Day”. The bus was ready to depart at 2:00pm and so we reluctantly departed the Cotton Club.

Alice and I decided to do some shopping for our girls so it was back on the subway for some more exploration. After finding our store and making a few purchases that will unfortunately go into my bag, it was back to the hotel for an afternoon nap. I was completely knackered and fell asleep with a beer in my hand. If not for Tony I may have missed the curtain call for tonight’s show. Julie recommended the bar at the Renaissance Hotel for a pre- show drink as it has great views of Time Square. She was 100% correct and I would recommend it to anyone visiting New York. Our show tonight is at the Helen Hayes theatre on 44th street. We are lucky enough to have front row, middle seats on the mezzanine level for the 80’s spoof Rock Of Ages. The music was more late eighties with a heavier sound of Twisted Sister and Def Lepoard. It was a reasonable storyline of unrequited love with lot of comedy and great songs. We enjoyed the second act more than the first and thought Mowtown was the better musical for people of our vintage. The only sour note of the evening is that I lost my only pair of reading glasses. Luckily, Alice had a pair of cheap glasses from the chemist as a backup.

Day 33, 26th May – New York to Munich

There was no need to wake up early this morning as we do not have to check out until midday. After purchasing a couple of lattes for breakfast the morning was spent packing bags and catching up on the diary. Our flight to Munich and then Athens on Lufthansa does not depart until 5:25pm. We have decided to use public transport so it was shanks pony to 53rd Street where we caught the uptown line to the second last stop and then transfer to the JFK airtrain. The cost was $2.50 for the subway plus $6.00 for the airtrain. Apart from having to carry our bags down the disability unfriendly steps at 53rd Street it was an easy journey to undertake. Slightly under 1 hour travel time plus our walking time from the hotel made it comparable to a taxi and much cheaper even with four passengers.

We said goodbye to Julie and Tony as they are travelling on Swiss Air from terminal 4 to Athens via Zurich. Our check-in time at terminal 1 was less than 30 minutes including security. The fact that we were early may have contributed to the ease of our check-in. Our priority pass will give us access to the KAL lounge which is right next to the security check point. That was very convenient as it gives Alice and I ample opportunity to relax in comfort before boarding commences at 4:55pm. Well our flight was ready to depart on time however an extra long queue of departing flights kept us on the tarmac for 50 minutes. We can only hope that the pilot puts the pedal to the metal as we only have a 55 minute window to board our connecting flight to Athens. In one way our allotted seats are perfect as they are a set of two just behind business class which will allow us a quick interchange at Munich. The downside was that they were next to the toilets which meant no sleep due to the vacuum sound from the toilet flushing. This is the first time we have flown Lufthansa and I can comment favorably on their service and German efficiency. The food was excellent and the smooth cognac that I am sipping as I type this dissertation is heavenly. Wi-Fi is available on this flight but because I am cheap and will not spend the 11.5 Euros you will not receive any emails until we reach Greece.

GREECE

Day 34, 27th May – Munich to Athens

Our flight picked up some time and Alice and I disembarked at 8:00am. As luck would have it we were at the extreme end of the terminal and we must have looked a sight as we sprinted down the long passageway. After clearing immigration we went down the stairs to the next level and sprinted once again to the far end directly beneath where we started. In the end we made it with 7 minutes to spare and would you believe the flight departed 15 minutes late.

Our flight to Athens was uneventful and our only delay was the wait for our baggage. Once again I have opted for public transport and for a mere 5 euro per person we booked a slot on the X95 bus to the city centre. Once there we transferred to the metro and travelled two stops to Omonia Square. From here it was a short walk to the $42 per night Vienna Hotel which includes breakfast. The room is surprisingly big and is in reasonable condition. Julie and Tony arrived around 3:30pm with Allan and Doreen arriving 90 minutes later. They both look shattered after their long haul and have opted to sleep. The four of us headed off to a local eatery and had a good nosh of gyros, beer and wine. Our dish was so huge that we barely put a dint in it. The cost probably worked out at around $15 per head. Needing to work off our dinner we took the girls for a walk and guided them past a few fashion houses. Julie was duly tempted and bought another pair of pants.