Day 59, 21st June – The Longest Day
It was lucky that we had the blinds drawn last night as the sunrise was at 4:30am and will not set until around 10:00pm. When we wiped the sleep from our eyes the first impact on the sensory organs was the smell of freshly brewed coffee and toasted cheese sandwiches prepared by Jytte. It may be the longest day but we are turning it into a lazy day. Alice and I travelled with Jytte to the Super Brugsen store in Asnas to purchase some provisions for the evening meal. On our return the four of us took a walk down to the beach. Even though the sun is shining we have no intention of going for a swim as the wind is blowing with gusto. Once you were out of the wind your body temperature increased to the point where you had to remove a layer of clothing. On our way back we stopped at the local and purchased some more wine and fresh jordbaer. There were a number of serve yourself stores with an honesty box selling fresh tomatoes, strawberries and new Danish potatoes.
Later in the afternoon Alice and I took a walk through the back laneways and gravel roads. Despite the weather I was surprised by the number of people out walking. They were all friendly and responded to our twangy Aussie hellos. The landscape is very foresty and supports a large variety of bird life. Down at the beach the conditions were still rough which precluded us from a long walk along the beach. We doubled back via the centre of the village and contemplated a double scoop of ice cream. With great restraint we just managed to resist this delectable temptation. Back at the summer house it was time to put the feet up and watch another game from the world cup.
Jens had spent the day at a reunion with friends whom he started grade one. I’m flat out remembering which school I went to, let alone whom I went with. Jens had missed the ferry so did not arrive back until after 6:00pm. As Jytte was serving the evening meal she gave a startled shout. I thought she had dropped the dinner but to our delight she had spotted a doe with its fawn in the backyard. Unfortunately, they had been spooked by the neighbours returning home and they only stayed long enough to scamper through the backyard. With this impromptu visit over it was time to sample another one of Jytte’s culinary masterpieces. It was a casserole with pork fillet, bacon, small sausages, mushroom and onion in a Hungarian Paprika sauce and accompanied with boiled new Danish potatoes. Needless to say we did make short work of the Grenache Noir and a kilogram of strawberries with freshly whipped cream.
Day 60, 22nd June – Danish Day in Denmark
The weather has improved slightly and the wind has abated leaving us with a bright blue sky. Jens has taken Doreen and Allan for a drive around the district to see the attractions of Roskilde and Dragsholm Castle. He is a goldmine of information and seems to know all the country lanes and back roads. Alice and I are staying back at the summer house and are helping Jytte prepare the various courses for this afternoons feast. As a reward Jytte has given me a can of Black Bird Gylden Classic lager beer which is brewed in Jutland.
The festivities or should I say lunch kicked off a little after 2:00pm with marinated herring (rollmops) and thinly sliced onion. Following the consumption of the herring the tradition is to shout skol and down a glass of Schnapps. It seems to enhance the flavor or it could be my imagination that is being fueled by the high octane schnapps. There was plenty of rye bread which we spread with liberal quantities of Bornholm salad. This was made with a mixture of smoked herring, mackerel with finely chopped onion, radish and egg which is then blended with mayonnaise. Course number three was smoked eel. Jytte gave Alice a lesson in how to debone and skin the eel. It is a soft texture and the flavour was delicious. We are resting in between courses and lubricating our throats with local beer and the occasional schnapps. Course number four was an unusual one as I think it is a Jytte creation. It was egg with a tomato hat with prawns in the middle which was then drizzled with mayonnaise. The other courses were procured from the local deli and they were a liverwurst paste and smoked salmon with cream cheese and dill. These were accompanied by fresh tomatoes and beetroot.
By early evening we were all a little merry but not yet merry. Jytte brought out a game called Cub which soon had our competitive nature in full swing. The game is hard to describe but is essentially played in the backyard with wooden objects. It was a great game and for those who are interested you can purchase the game on Amazon. A few more schnapps and we were ready for bed.
Day 61 23rd June – St Hans Day
The weather today is pretty glum. There are plenty of grey clouds with a strong chance of precipitation. This does not bode well for our chance to go swimming or the celebration of St Hans Day. The Danes take this day seriously and the tradition goes back hundreds of years. All over Denmark they celebrate by lighting giant bonfires. On top of the fire there is an effigy of a witch and when it burns the spirit is sent back to Bornhoff Island (salad fame) in Germany.
With the foul weather Jens has turned into an errand boy. He has transported Alice and Doreen into Asnas to purchase some needed supplies. I later went for a drive with him to another small town to purchase a new HP wireless printer. The store was like stepping into Harvey Normans with the aisles and products arranged in a similar pattern. There is something wrong in the corporate world when it is nearly as cheap to buy a new printer with ink than to purchase a replacement ink cartridge.
Allan and Doreen booked a table at the local restaurant as tonight there is a pork smorgasbord. When we arrived after 6:30 there were no spare tables so thank goodness for the booking. It is simple fare with lashings of potato, roast pork, beetroot and white sauce with parsley. We all did justice to this mighty spread but Allan managed to get the best value with three plates. At 99 danish kroner it is a good value night out. Back home we watched some of the St Hans celebrations on television. One of the towns had entertainment which included an old English rocker Mungo Jerry. He managed to get a few of the oldies moving when he sang his old hit “In The Summertime”.
Day 62, 24th June – The Norwegian Star
The weather this morning has improved so Alice and I decided on an early morning swim in Victory Bay which is part of the Kattegat Sea. When we arrived at the water’s edge we nearly had a change of mind as the wind was still blowing. It was now or never so we whipped off our shirts and with more bravado than we actually had plunged into the water. The water wasn’t warm but it was bearable so we ducked beneath the waves and immersed ourselves in the kelp infused brine. We needed proof of our stupidity for Lilian so the camera was forced into service to take the ubiquitous selfie.
Back at the house Jytte has the coffee percolating and made some toast which was thickly spread with delicious liver paste. With the morning disappearing we bade farewell to Jytte who did spoil us. She even gave up her double bed for Alice and me. It is sad to be leaving but another adventure awaits us on board the Norwegian Star. Our luggage has been redistributed and each couple only needs one suitcase for the cruise. It can all fit into Jens’ car so he will drive us the 90 minutes to the port in Copenhagen.
The check-in process for such a large ship was smooth and it wasn’t long before we were all on board. Alice and I are in steerage class and have a inside state room (they are all called state rooms) on level 4. We can’t go any lower as the engines are below us. Doreen and Allan are slightly higher on level 5. We cannot complain as we are only paying $900 each for our 9 night cruise and that includes a bottle of wine, chocolate coated strawberries and a $50 dollar on board voucher. You may ask why so cheap? If you are prepared to wait until the last minute then the prices drop significantly. The site we used is Vacations to Go and they have a 90 day ticker which lists most world cruises (Australia does not rate) with the latest discount rate, not including relevant taxes. We booked one month out and paid by credit card over the telephone and our tickets were emailed to us. I could have saved another $100 each if we had waited until two weeks out but I did not want to risk missing out.
After a quick bite to eat on deck 12 we had a walk around the ship. I managed a few swings in the golf net which is about my limit these days. The gym is fairly big and after meeting the personal trainer (Tony, he is engaged) I think I will need to burn off some calories here. My weight is ballooning and I now am up to 79kg. Alice and I have decided to be a little decadent and have splashed out $150 each to become VIP members of the spa. This gives us access to the steam room, sauna, hydro therapy pool as well as a quiet area with deck chairs. We did manage to have a relaxing session before dinner.
Day 63, 25th June – Warnemunde, Germany
I had a great sleep and the sea is so calm that it is hard to believe that we are sailing on the open sea. Dinner last night was great but now I have to pay the penalty and head up to the gym. A half hour on the treadmill followed by some pushups and stretching and I was ready for a relaxed breakfast. While I was exercising the ship berthed at the port of Warnemunde. There is no rush as we have not booked any tours and will be content to stroll around this UNESCO listed town.
Alice was a little unwell so I took a walk with Allan and Doreen into the city. The first thing we noticed was a large area that has been set aside for campervans. Jens would probably know if it was free and the location was right on the edge of the canal. There were plenty of ferries with names such as “Hafenrundfahrt” offering short sightseeing trips for 9 euro. The other activity which is relatively cheap is to catch the metro to the historical town of Rostock. It is only a 10 minute ride and you can explore the great churches and Gothic architecture. Warnemunde is basically a seaside destination and it has a long wide and white sandy beach. The town has cobble stone streets and the inns and small hotels are quaint. The local museum is in a fisherman’s house which dates back to 1767. Other points of interest are the Neo-Gothic church built 1866-1872 and the lighthouse. It was built in 1897-1898 from white glazed brick and is 32 metres tall. For the princely sum of 2 euro you can climb to the top for a great view of the surrounding area. The “Alter Strom” is an area where you can promenade past fishermen houses, cafes, pubs and boutiques. You can even try the daily smoked fish, eel or a fish sandwich.
After lunch Alice was feeling a little better so we took a walk around the Alter Storm. The boutiques and a spot of retail therapy seemed to lift her spirits. She did manage to purchase a new swimsuit and was able to resist the temptation of some rather nice slacks. We did find a supermarket where we bought some water, beer and some piccolos of champagne. One thing about cruise ships is that if it is not complimentary then you will pay through the butt for it. A litre of water is about $US4.50 which makes it three times more expensive than petrol. Alcohol is also outrageously expensive. We did not go, pardon the pun, overboard with our purchases as they do scan your luggage when you return to the boat. With our walk out of the way we had some time before dinner to enjoy the spa. The deck chairs are located in the aft section on level 12 which gives you a great uninterrupted view of the harbor.
Dinner tonight was once again in the Aqua Lounge. The menu is quite varied and thankfully the portions are not on the large side. Everyone knows that we like a drop of wine with our evening meal so we purchased one of the wine deals which reduces the price by about $6 a bottle. Even at this price the cost is still outrageous at around $24 a bottle. At least the meals taste good. It is an early night for us as the clocks go forward by one hour and we want to get up early.
Day 64, 26th June – At Sea
The six a clock alarm would never ring but it rings and I rise, wipe the sleep out of my eyes and head off to the gym for another session. There are no ports of call today so we are taking in a few of the ships activities. Whilst I sit around on deck 8 people watching and typing this tome, Alice is heavily engaged in the Battle of Bingo. At lunch she reported that she waited for 10 calls for her final number but unfortunately she missed out. I was going to do some research on the internet but at 75 cents per minute it is another example of exorbitant overcharging for basic services. After lunch Doreen, Allan and she will play Deal or No Deal. I on the other hand could not be bothered with such trivialities. Don’t rip my tongue out Lilian! My time will be spent at the spa and a cycling exercise class. Hopefully I will learn some techniques that will improve my fitness.
Well I did not learn anything that will help me get fitter but I did sweat a lot. Alice also spread some sweat with a good Pilates workout. Some hydro therapy and a session in the steam room was enough to take away any aches and pains. All that exercise stimulated our appetites so it was with great relish that we attacked another three course meal. We all finished the evening off with a show that featured a great singing foursome from Spain and Italy called Four Ever.
Day 65, 27th June – Helsinki, Finland
The weather this morning was slightly overcast but there is no hint of rain. After breakfast we ventured out of the cruise terminal onto Finnish territory. The terminal is far enough from the City centre to warrant taking a tour or one of the many taxis. There are another two cruise ships in port so it will fairly busy. We opted to take the hop-on, hop-off red bus which does a sixty minute loop for 20euro. The cruise ship uses the green bus and that was 25euro.
The four of us alighted at the Swedish Theatre in the city centre and strolled down one of the esplanades to Market Square on the waterfront. Alice and I decided to explore the markets and left Allan and Doreen to their own devices. Our next task was to hike up a small hill to the Uspenski Cathedral where we were rewarded with a great view of the City and harbor. The Tassie Devil was so impressed that he demanded a picture. From there it was a short stroll past the Presidential Palace to Senate Square. The architecture in this area is superb and you could spend many hours meandering through and past the buildings. My Chinese bladder was playing up and there was a dearth of public amenities so we headed into Café Engle which is supposed to be the oldest café in Helsinki. After purging my excess fluids I ordered two coffees and a piece of carrot cake. When I converted the Euros to dollars I figured out that my toilet break had cost $25. OMG!
Our map was pretty good so Alice decided that we should use Shanks’ Pony and pick up the bus on the other side of the City. Our walk took us past the historic railway station and some underground bus stations which was great for this old transport nut. We crossed a bridge that we thought was over a canal but it turned out to be huge bike path. There was even an Aussie Bar festooned with Australian paraphernalia and selling Fosters. We finished our walk at the Rock Church. Now this is not a music church but is in fact the most unique church in Finland as it is built into the bedrock. The impressive interior has a large copper domed roof and a magnificent organ. While I was inside Alice joined a long queue of desperate women who were in need of some relief. Even though the admission to the church was free they more than made up with it by charging one euro for use of the toilet. Alice was heard to lament “Here I stand all broken hearted, I paid one euro and only ….”. She did join me inside and was impressed by the wonderful acoustics and the simplicity of the layout.
It was time to catch the bus again so we took it through the suburbs to a park that housed the Sibelius Monument. It is an impressive stainless steel monument dedicated to the world famous composer Jean, you guessed it, Sibelius. We took a stroll down to the waterfront where there was a duck with a big flock of ducklings. I was not sure when the next bus would come so we walked to the next stop where the 1952 Olympics were held. In the surrounding park there were monuments to two great Finnish Olympians Parvo Nurmi and Lasse Virren. Our day was drawing to an end so we caught the bus back to the boat. Our view is that Helsinki is a beautiful but expensive City. The red bus was a good option for our one day exploration.
Day 66, 28th June – St. Petersburg, Russia
My research on Russia indicated that we did not need a visa to enter if we were arriving on a cruise ship and were taking an organized tour. The NCL tours were exorbitantly priced and a two day, 17 hour tour was $US450. On the web I found a Russian company, Kurs – Spb that had good reviews with Trip Advisor. I emailed them and arranged a tour for $US295 that included more site visits than the NCL tour.
The day did not start well as Doreen injured her back this morning and could not move. Allan has arranged for the doctor and as a result they will not tour today. Alice and I cleared the immigration line at around 9:15 and soon found our guide Svetlana. Our vehicle which is a new Mercedes van is of course being driven by Ivan. Our first stop was at the banks of the Neva River where we viewed a magnificent pair of granite Egyptian Sphinxes that were installed in the 1830’s. With all the interconnecting canals it is easy to see why St. Petersburg was referred to as the Venice of the North. Our next stop was at the subway which was built by the Soviets in the 1950’s. The station we boarded at is supposed to be the deepest subway station in the world. It was remarkably clean and there was no graffiti. Each station has huge mosaic murals that represent each particular station.
Back in the car and we were off along the Moscow Prospect then onto the Kiev Highway to the town of Puskin. After travelling through the Egyptian Gates we came to the Tsar’s Village and Catherine’s Palace. This palace ranks as one of the masterpieces of world art and was used as a summer residence by the royal family until the time of the last Russian Tsar. Our tour took us through a series of magnificent rooms, including the Picture Gallery, The Great Hall and the world famous Amber Room. Our guide Lana was able to get us past most of the large tour groups and still find time to point out the more interesting aspects of the palace.
We then journeyed to Peterhof which is known as the Russian Versailes. Built at the beginning of the 18th century it is one of the most brilliant palaces. It encompasses seven parks and more than 20 smaller palaces and pavilions. The Grand Cascade is fantastic and consists of three waterfalls, an avenue of 64 fountains and 37 gilded statues. The palace and Grand Cascade were extensively damaged during World War 2 and were under restoration for many years. There are no water pumps and all the fountains are gravity fed by a series of lakes and reservoirs. Lana had brought a packed lunch for us that we enjoyed on a park bench in the shady gardens. One of my favourite fountains was the joke fountain. You had to walk across some stones and depending on where you stepped you could be covered in water. Our transfer back to town was across the Gulf of Finland by speedy hydrofoil. It was such a smooth ride that I had difficulty keeping my eyes open.
We alighted from our boat at the Spit of Vasilievsky where we had a great view of the Hermitage Museum and our next destination the St. Peter and Paul Fortress. Inside the fortress we entered the Cathedral where we admired the marble columns and glittering painted chandeliers. The carved and gilded iconostasis create a great setting for the tombs of the Romanov monarchs. In 1998 the remains of the last Russian Tsar Nicholas 2nd and his family were also buried in the Cathedral.
A little after 6:00pm we bid farewell to our guide and made our way quickly through immigration. After such a long day it was enjoyable to relax at the spa centre and then have a quiet dinner.
Day 67, 29th June – Rasputin, Spilled Blood and the Hermitage
The good news today is that Doreen’s back has improved and she and Allan will tour with us. We started the day with a photo opportunity of St. Isaac Cathedral before heading off to an active Russian Orthodox Church known as St. Nicholas. It is Sunday and we were fortunate enough to witness a service and to listen to the chanting. An interesting fact with the Orthodox Church is that they are required to stand for the entire service. Allan could not enter as he was wearing shorts. It is lucky that we are in the van as Ivan has had to make a few detours to get around the marathon which is on today.
The next stop was at Yusupov Palace where the infamous monk Grigori Rasputin was assassinated. The palace was owned by Felix Yusupov whose wealth rivaled that of the Tsar. It was here in 1916 that Rasputin was killed: he was lured to the palace by several influential figures of the time, given poison cakes, which for some reason had no effect on him, then shot and thrown in the river. Our guide led us down a narrow staircase to the very spot where Felix and his accomplices assassinated Rasputin. I must say that Lana gave us a lot of information regarding Rasputin and for me it was one of the highs of the tour. Among the palace’s treasures are works of art by Rembrandt and Rubens, French tapestries, porcelain and Venetian mirrors. Our favourite room was the small theatre with its own stage and boxes for visiting dignitaries including the Tsar.
Our next stop was the Cathedral of spilled Blood or as it is also called the cathedral of Ressurection and was built between 1883 and 1907 on the spot where Emperor Alexander the 2nd was assassinated in 1881. The interior of the church is a memorial to Alexander and is decorated with different marbles and several thousand square yards of mosaics. They are far from ordinary as the surfaces have been left unpolished so that it reflects the sunlight. A late lunch was taken at a local restaurant where we sampled a typical Russian salad, Borsch (Beetroot soup) and the old special Beef Stroganoff.
Our next stop was the Hermitage Museum which ranks as one of the worlds most prestigious museums. It contains over three million objects of unparalleled importance. The museum was founded by Catherine The Great in 1764 as a private court museum and has evolved into one of the most remarkable collections of art in the world. Lana our guide led us through the labyrinth of rooms that features the art of Leonardo Da Vinci, Raphael, Titan and others. There are Dutch and Flemish collections featuring Rembrandt, Rubens and Van Dyck. The collection of French art is the largest outside France and displays work by Degas, Renoir, Monet, Cezanne, Van Gogh, Gaugin and Matisse. Lana was exceptional as she singled out various pieces of art and gave us some detailed knowledge of the work. We obviously did not see a large proportion of the exhibits but one of the highlights was a Peacock clock which was handcrafted by an English master. I think we covered a few kilometers and encountered our share of pushy Asians. On one occasion I jumped in front of them as they were taking some photographs. It was music to my ears when I heard them bleating about my rudeness.
Our last port of call was a tour inside St. Isaac’s Cathedral which was built between 1818 and 1858. The outside structure is surrounded by huge granite columns. It is the fourth largest domed cathedral in the world and on a clear day you can see it from Peterhof which we did. Our touring was over and Ivan expertly had us back at the terminal a little after 5:00pm. Alice and I can highly recommend this company as they were passionate about their history and at the same time they made us feel as if we were part of their family. Compared to what NCL were offering we received excellent value for the money we spent. To finish off the day Alice and I adjourned to the spa area where we could relax and watch the scenery unfold as we cruised away from the port.
Day 68, 30th June – Tallinn, Estonia
The weather over the past two days was excellent however when we docked this morning we were greeted by a cold wind and fog as thick as pea soup. It was so miserable that we did not exit the ship until 11:00am. Given that we had to be back on board by 4:30pm it did not leave us much time for exploring the old historical city of Tallinn. Once again the four of us have opted for the hop-on, hop-off tour. A one day ticket that covers three routes cost us 13 euro.The main route travels around the outskirts of the old city and takes about 50 minutes. Alice and I alighted at the Toompea Castle stop whilst Allan and Doreen completed the loop and then transferred to one of the other routes.
The old city is particularly enchanting and we spent a lot of time wandering through cobble stone streets that were lined with medieval buildings. Some of the interesting landmarks were Tall Hermann’s Tower, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral and the Cathedral of Saint Mary the Virgin. Alice donated some coinage to a busker of indeterminate age and doubtful skill who was passionately belting out some old classics. He was entertaining and deserved some largesse from the crowd. We continued downhill past St. Nicolas’ Church before stopping for a break in the Town Hall Square. I needed an establishment that made a decent coffee as well as having a WC. For the princely sum of 13 euro which was much cheaper than Helsinki we had a club sandwich and a couple of excellent coffees.
By the time we had finished our coffee the day was getting on and we still had plenty to see. We did manage to have a good look at the largest cathedral which is known as St. Olav Church but the main landmark for me was Fat Margaret’s Tower. I have no idea why they named it as such. We were going to have a look at Swan Lake and the Russalka Monument but decided that we may be pushing it for time. Rather than wait for our bus we decided to walk back to the cruise boat on the off chance that we may find a supermarket selling some of the local beers. As it turned out Alice led us to the main alcohol store that sells discount liquor to all the local cruise ships. We did manage to purchase some beer, water and of course some champagne piccolos. Back at the ship we finished the day at the spa, a Beatles tribute show and then a good meal.
In hindsight even though the bus tour cost only 13 euro we did not get good value from it. Our advice if you are ever visiting Tallinn is to take the 15 minute walk into the old town (get a map from the tourist information area) and spend the day exploring this great area.
Day 69, 1st July – Stockholm, Sweden
Once again the weather is a little dicey but we have all managed to exit the ship by 8:30am. We do not have any tours booked but the ever ready red hop-on, hop-off bus is available. There were buses everywhere and we mistakenly purchased tickets on the green bus. They also had red buses which led to the confusion. After being relieved of 27 euro each we headed off from the port towards the city centre. Rather than wait for another bus we trudged across the bridge to the old town where the Royal Palace was situated. Like Helsinki the stone architecture is marvelous and has been kept in excellent repair. We were lucky enough at the palace to witness the changing of the guard. It was time once again to find a toilet and rather than pay for it we decided on a couple of coffees at one of the many restaurants that surround the square. The Nobel Museum is situated in the square but unfortunately we did not have time to visit.
Once again we boarded the bus which took us through some interesting neighborhoods and past the impressive City Hall. This building on the waterfront is huge and is constructed from brick. We alighted from the bus near Central Station and went in search of the ice bar. At the end of a dead end street near the World Trade Centre we found the coolest place in town. Alice and I decided that the 20euro cost per person for 45 minutes in minus 5 degree temperatures would be worth it for a once only experience. We changed our minds when they informed us that the wait would be one hour and twenty minutes. Our back up plan was to have a junior burger from a Swedish version of McDonalds. They also had the requisite WC which I am always in need of. The food was good and the WC better. The weather seems to be fluctuating and there has been a hint of some rain.
Our next stop was on an island that has many museums and attractions. We did not go into the Vasa Museum which has the world’s only surviving ship from the 17th century. The reports from other cruise members are that it is definitely worth a visit. The museum that we were intent on seeing was of course the ABBA Museum. At the front of the museum there was a life size mural of the four members in their garish costumes. The heads of the group could be swung aside to allow you to become an ABBA superstar and pose for a lame photograph. There was never any doubt that the four of us would acquiesce to this ridiculous pose. Time was running out so we did not worry about spending the $25 on admission fees. We did however spend some time gazing at the memorabilia that was available for purchase. Those ABBA socks will look brilliant on Alice.
Today is only a short day in port so we decided to head back to the pier. I guess everyone had the same idea as the next two buses that came along were full. When the next red bus did not stop I started to get a little upset. On his return leg I jumped in front of the bus demanding to be let on. It was then that I found out that there were two companies with red buses and he did not stop there. As usual Murphys Law kicked in and while I was remonstrating with the driver a green bus with room on it sailed past. Luckily on the return leg the driver took pity on us and picked us up at a non designated stop. After two more stops our bus was full and heading directly back to port. This tour would have been better value if you are staying for 72 hours. As it was if you study the public transport map you can cover off most areas quite cheaply and with only a little walking.
Back on board and Alice is off to Bingo whilst I endeavour to torture myself with a 45 minute cycling course. After our individual workouts we headed to the spa area and relaxed as our ship sailed away from the pier. For us this was one of the highlights of our trip. Stockholm is surrounded by a beautiful archipelago of over 1300 islands. As the ship navigated its way through narrow channels you felt that you could reach out and touch the islands. Some were small with just a few trees and a navigational beacon while others were lined with jetties and beautiful summer houses. There were vehicular ferries connecting some of the islands and I was astounded when I saw one conveying an articulated passenger bus. I could have stayed on my deck chair for ages just watching the scenery float by however Alice and I must go for dinner.
At dinner I jokingly asked for a romantic table for two. I was flabbergasted when they seated us adjacent to a large window which allowed us to continue watching the islands of the archipelago. As dinner was drawing to an end the ship finally hit the open sea. Our guesstimate is that we sailed through these islands for about 4.5 hours. It was such a great finish to an outstanding day.
Day 70, 2nd July – The Baltic Sea
There are no ports of call today so the alarm has deliberately not been set. Alice and I did not make it out of bed until late which meant breakfast did not occur until nearly 10:00am. We were not the only ones enjoying a late start as Doreen and Allan arrived after us and had trouble finding a spare table. I spent the next few hours catching up on my diary whilst Alice was actively engaged with Deal or no Deal.
At 3:00pm I headed off for my cycling torture course. When I had finished my shirt was covered in sweat which I hope is a good indicator of calorie loss. With this strenuous activity finished that was the end of my training for the day. The spa once again beckoned and we will be sad that we will not to be able to take advantage of all the facilities. Our day finished with dinner in the Aqua lounge with Doreen and Allan.
Day 71, 3rd July – Copenhagen
The alarm this morning was set for 7:00am as we have to get up and pack our bags so that we are ready to disembark by 9:00am. After our last breakfast we were ready to leave and catch up with our Danish relatives. We said our sad goodbyes to Doreen and Allan as they are heading off to Ordrup with Jens. Meanwhile Alice and I were picked up by Lissa and Joan and were whisked through Copenhagen and onto Tune. We are once again in the country and we are happy to be spending some quality time with them.
After a great lunch of herring, prawns, egg and meat which were spread on open sandwiches we relaxed and chatted in Lissa’s sunroom. As usual the sun is still high in the sky and it is hard to believe that it is already 6:00pm. Joan’s English son in law, John is currently staying here and tonight we are sharing a roast pork dinner with red cabbage. He was running a little late as he was stuck in a traffic jam which is unusual for this area. Perhaps it is because the Rolling Stones are playing a concert tonight at the nearby Roskilde music festival but it turned out to be an accident on the freeway.
Dinner tonight was another traditional Danish meal. Alice and I were both salivating over the smell from the oven of freshly roasted pork with perfect crackling. This was accompanied by red cabbage, new Danish potatoes and John’s delicious gravy made from the pork juices. We washed this down with some red wine and followed with fresh strawberries, cream and a little Grand Mariner.
Day 72, 4th July – Something Rotten in the State of Denmark
It may be Independence Day in the USA but here in Denmark the sun is shining and the wind has abated which makes it a perfect day for travelling to the seaside. Our destination today was the town of Helsingor where Kronborg Castle is situated. For those who know their Shakespeare this is where Hamlet uttered his famous soliloquy “To be or not to be….”. The original castle was built in the 1400’s and was subsequently added to over the centuries that followed. Much of Denmark’s wealth can be attributed to this castle and its enviable location which is only about 4km from Sweden. Any shipping that wanted to trade in the Baltic area had to pass by this point. All the Danish cannons were trained on the shipping lanes which meant some hefty taxes found their way into the treasury.
Lissa bought some entry tickets to the castle which allowed us to visit the chapel and the Kasematter (underground cavern). The castle is surrounded by fortifications that include an array of cannon and a moat. The walls are very thick and could easily have withstood an enemy bombardment from that period. Inside the chapel there was a section for royalty as well as a beautiful organ. We wandered across the square and then took some steps down for the underground tour. There were some torches available for rent but we forged on without them. One of the highlights of the caverns is the imposing statue of a sleeping “Holger the Dane”. Legend has it that he will awaken if and when Denmark needs defending. Some of the areas were quite dark and eerie so a torch would have been handy. You could easily imagine how terrible it would have been for prisoners kept in these dank and dark cells. I don’t know if Shakespeare ever travelled here but sure had plenty of material to work with. “Alas poor Yorich, I knew him ….”
Lunch was beckoning so we took leave of the castle and wandered into the little town squares in Helsingor. Tables were pretty scarce as they were taken up by masses of Swedes. They swarm across on the Scandlines ferry which depart every 15 minutes to indulge in some duty free shopping. They are easy to pick because most of them a hauling a trolley laden with alcohol. Alice and I had the open sandwiches with a beer whilst Joan and Lissa had fish and a non-alcoholic drink. Afterwards we took a stroll down the pedestrian only main street. Alice managed to purchase some Licorice Gajol, Danish lollies and some medication. The whole area was a great place to chill out as there were many restaurants with some having live jazz music. Before returning to the car Joan led us to a famous ice cream parlour where she bought us a double scoop in a freshly made waffle cone. On the wall there are photographs of celebrities one of which included Prince Charles slurping one down.
It was 4:00pm when we arrived back at the car but as you know we still had plenty of light left. With so much daylight left the girls decided to give us a treat and drive along the coastline towards Copenhagen. The road follows the coastline for over 40km and for the majority you have great views of the water. It is a long version of the Gold Coast’s Hedges Avenue as some of the houses would command in excess of $1,000,000. Near Humlebaek we stopped so we could visit the Louisianan Museum of Modern Art. To be honest I thought it would be a little lame however when we entered the grounds I was more than a little surprised. Being summer it was a perfect time to enjoy the unique interaction between art, architecture and nature. We did a short tour of the Sculpture Park and explored the hidden pathways, watched the masses sunbathing and picnicking on the grass and feasted on the panoramic views of the sound and nearby Sweden. There were even a few brave souls swimming in the shallow waters. The Louisiana collections are of international importance and well presented in the galleries. Alice and I would profess not to have too much knowledge of Modern Art but we were both impressed by the German painter Emil Nolde (1867-1956). There was also an exhibition of the later works of one of the most important American painters from the second half of the twentieth century Philip Guston ((1913-1980). The exhibition title Painting, Smoking, Eating implies that during the last ten years of his life Guston only drew and painted himself and his immediate surroundings. The other exhibition was the works of Hilma Af Klint (1862-1944). This Swedish artist used a lot of symbols and colours and was unlike anything I had seen before. Due to the abstract nature and references to the occult . Alice and I both agreed that it wasn’t our cup of tea. The Louisana was a destination where depending on the weather you could easily spend a day.
We continued following the coastline with its parks, sheltered bays and beautiful homes. There was even a museum for the celebrated author Karen (Out of Africa) Blixen. When we reached Copenhagen Lissa took us to see the resting place of her husband Erik and her son Lars. We felt particularly honoured that she shared this special place with us.
It was around 8:00pm when we arrived back at Tune. Given that we had such a huge lunch we decided to share a bottle of wine and some leftovers from the previous night. John had a previous arrangement with Lissa’s neighbour Erik for some world cup football, beer and some cooked goose and partridge.
Day 73, 5th July – Hop On-Hop Off Copenhagen
Lissa has a birthday that she must attend today so John has driven her to meet an early train from Roskilde. She has been a superb hostess and has overwhelmed us with her generosity and kindness. In between time we just grazed and had copious cups of coffee. Later in the morning we caught the train (every 15mins on Saturday) from Greive to Central Station in the heart of Copenhagen. The Tivoli is adjacent to the station but we wanted the hop on hop off bus. Along the way we passed the Astoria Hotel where Alice’s parents met over 65 years ago.
After purchasing our tickets at the discount price of DKK150 we were off on yet another tour. John and Joan decided that we would alight at a stop that was close to Jens’s heart, Christiania. Prior to walking there Alice and I took a fancy to the Vor Frelsers Kirke (church). We could see that the spire of the church had a spiral staircase on the outside of the building that went all the way to the top. The first section was an endless series of wooden steps that took you to an upper viewing platform. I think that this attraction would have a difficult time meeting workplace safety regulations in Australia. When we eventually reached the top we were rewarded with amazing views of central Copenhagen. Back in the interior of the church there was a magnificently carved wooden organ that dated back to the 1600’s. We continued on to Christiania which is basically a hippie conclave which started in the sixties. The area has its own rules and most of the inhabitants pay little or no taxes. Photography within the area is not allowed and of course the use of drugs is a no no. I can’t explain what those big fat, funny smelling cigarettes that every third person was smoking were! There were plenty of arty type things for sale and to complete the hippie theme the majority of clothing seemed to have been produced in Nepal. Prices however were not utilitarian and were marked up to ensure a good profit for the seller.
Our lunch break was taken by one of the canals and the serving was more than generous. Our next stop on the bus tour was only a short distance but one of the highlights. It was the Amalienborg Place where the royal family resides. The flags were not raised which meant Mary and her brood were not at home. The palace appears to have four buildings that are connected. The design means that there is a huge centre courtyard and at the front of each building there is a royal guard standing (not so rigidly) at attention. From here we walked along the river front and could view some new and old architecture. One of the more impressive buildings is the new Opera House. Further along was the huge Gefion Fountain and then of course The Little Mermaid. It must be famous because Alice, myself and Ronnie Wood from the Rolling Stones were just a few of the thousands of visitors who come to see this little statue. I was a little disappointed to see a little graffiti on the mermaid.
We only had a few minutes to wait and we were back on the bus again heading for the walking and shopping street known as Stroget. Alice managed to find a couple of souvenir shops that sold tea towels and other assorted paraphernalia. We did manage to avoid buying some rather large Viking helmets. Down near the Town Hall we stopped for a photo opportunity with the statue of Hans Christian Andersen. John ended a memorable day by shouting us all a double scoop waffle cone ice cream at the Tivoli. Like a well oiled machine we walked to the station and boarded our train with thirty seconds to spare. We made it back to Tune in time to see the majority of the game between Belgium and Argentina. None of us had the stamina to stay the distance with John who stayed up and watched the Netherlands play Costa Rica.
No comments:
Post a Comment