Inle Lake

Day 29, 1st October – Pyin Oo Lwin

This morning our driver is taking us to Pyin Oo Lwin which is located in the Shan Highland, some 67 kilometers east of Mandalay, and at an altitude of 1070 meters (3510 ft).  In 1896, a permanent military post was established in the town and later, because of its climate, it became a hill station and the summer capital of British Burma. The establishment in Burma (civil, commercial and military) would move to Maymyo during the hot season to escape from the high heat and humidity of Rangoon. The British named the location Maymyo, literally May's Town in Burmese, after Colonel May, a veteran of the Indian Mutiny and commander of the Bengal Regiment temporarily stationed at the location of the town in 1887.

The drive took about 90 minutes and the last third was the long climb up the mountain range. It was not as scenic as the road to Mt Popa but nevertheless it was interesting. We stopped short of our destination so we could visit one of the highest waterfalls in Myanmar. The walk down to the waterfall took about 40 minutes and Alice was accompanied all the way by one of the local girls who was hoping to sell her a cold drink. She even provided Alice with a bamboo walking stick. At the bottom there was a small shack and a couple of locals working on the construction of a small Buddhist temple. The waterfall itself was not that high but there was a huge volume of murky brown water pouring over the rocky face. The spray engulfed us and we were soon quite damp. There was no chance of a swim so we got ready for the long haul back up the hill. Alice was feeling a bit queasy so we negotiated a trip back up the hill on a motorcycle. I decided to walk as I definitely need the exercise.

Alice’s assistant attached herself to me and we set off at a cracking pace. The humidity was high and it wasn’t long before I was drenched in sweat. The local girl was definitely used to travelling up and down the mountain and she was doing a good job of making feel inadequate by fanning me with her bamboo hat. To be honest I was powering along and after 25 minutes she enticed me to take a detour on the pretense that it was a shortcut. I’m glad she did as we ended up at a small Buddhist temple that was built around a limestone cave. Inside the cave there were stalagmites, stalactites and small Buddha statues which were highlighted by low voltage incandescent lighting. Even with this brief detour I still made it back to the summit in good time. At the top I found out that Alice had inadvertently broken the law. Yes, Alice who always tries to do the right thing was a no good lawbreaker. It turned out that it is now against the law to taxi people back up the mountain. A fair amount of jealousy seems to be at play because the restaurant owners at the top were quick to realize that Alice could not have walked back in such a short time. Quite a few questions were asked and Alice reckons that it occupied their conversations for quite awhile.

After all that excitement we headed into town and took a stroll around the local market. I purchased a couple of more longyis which will be quite useful at the beach. The market was huge and sold everything from clothes to fruit and vegetables. We did pass on the chicken entrails and feet that were swarming with flies. Most of the livestock appears to be freshly killed as you can see the blood on the pavement. Kyaw Kyaw then took us to lunch at a local restaurant. I don’t know what he ordered but about 12 plates of various foods ended up on the table. There was one dish however that none of us ate. He thought that it came from a local goat and to me it had the look and texture of the dreaded offal. The rest of the food was delicious. Kyaw Kyaw picked up the tab and I noticed that he got change from his 5000 kyat note. Now that is a bargain and it means that it pays to eat with the locals.

With lunch over we headed off to the beautiful National Kandawgyi Gardens. Along the way we passed some of the colourfully painted horse drawn carriages that act as taxis for the tourists as well as the locals. The park has a $US5 admission fee for foreigners but the cost is well worth it. When you see the beautiful gardens featuring terraces of dahlias and roses you can understand why it is known as the “Flower City”. It is the Burmese equivalent of Toowoomba. Other features of the Gardens were the huge lake, elevated timber walkway through the forest, orchid garden, butterfly museum and a walk-in aviary. Alice and I proved to be very popular as a large group of local women wanted their pictures taken with us. The Gardens are definitely worth a visit and we both wished that we had more time to explore them further.

To end the day we drove around the streets at the southern end of town to admire some of the older colonial buildings. We stopped for a look at the Candacraig Hotel that was formerly the British Club. It comes complete with turrets and is set in an attractively manicured lawn. There is a hint of the old British Raj here! Prior to us heading back to Mandalay Kyaw Kyaw took us to a local coffee shop that was set up on the side of the road. Judging by the looks we received and the fact that the menu was not in English we doubted that they had received even a few western customers. The coffee for three and the custard desert for Alice was good and cost around $1.65.

Back in Mandalay we paid our 65000 kyat ($70) for Kyaw Kyaw’s services. He has been an excellent driver over the past four days and his local knowledge and enthusiasm mde this a memorable stop for us.

Day 30, 2nd October –Inle Lake

This morning we do not have to rush as our short KBZ flight to Heho (Inle Lake) does not depart until 10:20am. Our taxi to the airport arrived on time at 8:30am and sped us off to the airport which is a mere 50 minute drive away. It’s a bit like us having to drive to the Gold Coast to catch an Air Asia flight. The flight departed on time and I inwardly laughed when the Captain announced that our flight time would be 25 minutes. There was a lot of low cloud cover and when we saw the hostess buckle up beside us we knew that were in for some severe turbulence. When the plane suddenly dropped Alice grabbed my wrist and nearly crushed it. The flight was soon over and within a few minutes of landing we were in a taxi heading for the town of Nyaungshwe on the shores of Inle Lake. Journey time from the airport is nearly an hour and the fare is 25000 kyat. Given the amount of time spent travelling between airports it would nearly be worthwhile taking a taxi for the entire journey.

The drive from the airport was fairly relaxing with some great views from the mountain range. Our room at the aptly named Brilliant Hotel is brilliant. It is well appointed with a bathroom that is nearly as big as our room in Mandalay. After settling in we took one of the free bicycles and headed downtown to check out the Mingala Market. This busy market at the entrance to town was flooded with locals as there is a festival occurring at the moment. Traders from the lake bring in fresh fish and produce from the floating gardens. There were also traders selling clothing, blankets, hardware and local crafts.

After the markets we headed out of town in search of the Red Mountain winery. We found the turn off and cycled for about 4 km along a road that was lined with farms. The last section was up a steep hill but it was well worth it. The view across the valley to the lake and distant mountain range was stupendous. If you would have told me four weeks ago that Alice and I would be tasting wine in the middle of Myanmar I would have laughed. It was about 4:30pm when we ordered our tasting sample of four locally grown wines. They were all fresh with a reasonable bouquet and quite dry. We decided to make an afternoon of it and ordered some food and a bottle of sauvignon blanc. It was the perfect accompaniment to the view and sunset we experienced. Time was getting away from us and we still had a few clicks to cycle so we hit the road. We made it back to the hotel just as the light disappeared.

Day 31, 3rd October – A Day on the Lake

The alarm went off at 5:15am which gave us plenty of time to get ready for our 7:30am departure to the lake. Before leaving the hotel provided a great breakfast that filled all the cavities. The hotel arranged the trip for us and because the location of Inle Lake’s five day market was in the village of Thaung Tho which is at the southern end of the lake. The cost was 25000 kyat.

Inle Lake is a freshwater lake located in a district of the Shan State. It is the second largest lake in Myanmar with an estimated surface area of 44.9 square miles (116 km2), and one of the highest at an elevation of 2,900 feet (880 m). During the dry season, the average water depth is 7 feet (2.1 m), with the deepest point being 12 feet (3.7 m), but during the rainy season this can increase by 1.5m. Most transportation on the lake is traditionally by small boats, or by somewhat larger boats fitted with single cylinder inboard diesel engines. Local fishermen are known for practicing a distinctive rowing style which involves standing at the stern on one leg and wrapping the other leg around the oar. This unique style evolved for the reason that the lake is covered by reeds and floating plants making it difficult to see above them while sitting. Standing provides the rower with a view beyond the reeds. However, the leg rowing style is only practiced by the men. Women row in the customary style, using the oar with their hands, sitting cross legged at the stern.

Our hotel has organized our trip today and they drove us down to the jetty to meet our boatman. Our slender wooden canoe could easily accommodate six passengers however it is just Alice and I. There are two comfortable wooden seats with cushions in the middle of the boat but there is no shade. Umbrellas are provided but it pays to lather up and wear a hat. We were soon surging out onto the lake to the thumping sound of our long-tailed outboard motor. Our young driver was excellent as he slowed almost to a stop whenever we wanted to take a photograph. Out on the wide expanses of the lake we stopped to admire the local fishermen as they laid out their nets and propelled their boats forward with the oar wrapped around one foot.

The itinerary today is a mix of markets, traditional crafts, pagodas and the floating gardens. Our first stop was a silver factory where they made all manner of items. When you see a sign in a shop that is located in the middle of a lake displaying visa and mastercard you know that some of the items will have a hefty price tag. That said the workmanship was excellent and Alice bought herself a nice pair of earrings. When the boatman pulled into the five day market we had a chance to stretch our legs. There was plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables for sale. The local Shan women with their brightly coloured head pieces were buying plenty. When they were fully loaded up they started up the mountain path for the long trek home. There was also small fish that were just starting to smell on offer but we thought that the local handicrafts were more to our taste.

Prior to lunch we had a few more stops to make at the local handicraft stores. There was a huge local weaving operation that was making cloth and items from silk, cotton and the root from the Lotus plant. We were told that the lotus weave was seven times more expensive than the silk. Next stop was a blacksmith where they had a small forge fired by charcoal. When we arrived they were in the process of belting out a knife that could be used in the harvesting of the lotus roots. Our lunch destination was also where they made local cigarettes and cigars. We declined the offer of a drag and the temptation to purchase a canister of the local weed.

Lunch was a pleasant affair as we obviously had a waterfront table where we could enjoy an uninterrupted view of the lake. The food was good but we spent our time admiring the different boats and buildings that dot the lake. The basic home starter is a small thatched hut that sits precariously on bamboo poles. The older ones have a bigger lean than the tower of Pisa. The next model up comes with a bright shiny corrugated tin roof and may even support a solar panel. There is usually an attached bamboo outhouse without any noticeable plumbing. I wonder what the fish are eating? The top of the range accommodation is a two storey timber construction with strong wooden poles for support. The timber that isn’t covered with a large green advertisement for Myanmar Lager Beer is kept looking good by a red wash that is sponged on in liberal amounts. Most of the homes also come equipped with a satellite dish for watching the latest Myanmar soapie or their version of “The Bold”.

Alice and I were handcrafted out but we still had the traditional parasol factory to visit. Judging by the enthusiasm of the sales staff I think they were over it as well. The temples just keep on coming so Alice and I removed our footwear yet again and visited the Buddha that is enshrined in the Phaung Daw Oo Paya.There was a good procession of local men (no women allowed) who were sticking gold leaf on some of the small Buddha statues. The view of the lake from the top floor was quite good. Our last hurrah was at the Nga Hpe Kyaung (monastery) which is also known as The Jumping Cat Monastery. The story goes that the Monks were a little bored with life on the lake so they trained the local cats to jump through hoops. This was a hit with the locals as well as tourists. On our visit there were plenty of cats but like the Monks they were bored and just sleeping on a rattan mat. Apparently some “do gooders” thought this was cruel and the practice has stopped.

The last section of our day out before heading back across the open expanse of the lake was spent motoring down some narrow canals looking at where the locals grow vegetables and fruit in large gardens that float on the surface of the lake. The floating garden beds are formed by extensive manual labor. The farmers gather up lake-bottom weeds from the deeper parts of the lake, bring them back in boats and make them into floating beds in their garden areas, anchored by bamboo poles. These gardens rise and fall with changes in the water level, and so are resistant to flooding.The gardens are so tightly packed with hyacinth and lotus that I half expected to see Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn pulling the African Queen.

As we approached the last three miles of our trip we noticed some weary locals who had been competing in energetic leg-rowing contests. There must be at least 50 rowers on each boat and they are all happy to be taking part in the Phaung Daw Oo Paya festival. Around 4:30pm we pulled into our little mooring near the centre of town. It was a great day out and well worth the kyat we paid.

Back at the hotel we were greeted by the staff who are just wonderful. I think that this is due to the fact that they are predominantly all women. I cant’ walk ten paces without them getting me an umbrella or throwing me a beaming smile. The women even carried our luggage to and from the room. They protested when I tried to help. To top it off the afternoon they delivered two plates of fresh bananas covered in honey to our room. We were just about to turn on the television when there was a knock on the door and a voice said room service. It was our Kiwi neighbour Simon who came to invite us over for a glass of wine on their balcony. We have run into him and his partner Leila all over Myanmar. It was a great evening just chillin’ out and having a good chin wag.

Day 32, 4th October – Back in Yangon

Well we had a great stay at Inle Lake and would highly recommend the Brilliant Hotel. The airport at Heho was in direct contrast to our arrival. There were heaps of passengers arriving and departing. The place was a scene of organized chaos with placard bearing tour groups and vehicles everywhere. Our flight back to Yangon was about 30 minutes late and in the end uneventful. For our last night in Yangon we have booked a room at a hotel with the strange name, “Mothers Home”. Part of the attraction for this hotel is that they offer a free pick-up and drop-off for the airport. I could not remember if I had passed on our arrival flight details so I was surprised when I noticed a young man with a placard bearing our name. The hotel is reasonably modern and is a good choice if you are staying only one or two nights in Yangon. They also offer a free ride to the down town area after breakfast.

After a quick freshen up we took a taxi (3500 kyat) at around 2:45pm to the Bogyoke Aung San market so Alice could do some last minute shopping. We did not realize that the market closed just after 4:00pm so she only had a limited to do this large centre justice. There was some reprieve for her as a couple of blocks away there is a street market where most of the locals go. She was in her element as in the next 90 minutes she managed to burrow her way through ever stall in the area. I even managed to make a few purchases myself.

We were running low on cash so we took stock over a couple of ice cold fruit shakes. I sourced an ATM and with plenty of kyat in our pockets we took a taxi to the Green Elephant restaurant. This is our second visit here and we have not been disappointed with the quality or the cost of the food. The cocktails and reasonably priced beer are an added attraction.

Day 33, 5th October – Red Light Singapore

This morning we had a rather painless trip to the airport where we will catch a Jetstar flight to Singapore. The check-in was reasonably quick and I was glad that we had purchased an extra 10kg for our baggage. That saved us from stuffing our backpacks with all the heavy items. We arrived in Singapore at 4:00pm and 15 minutes later we had cleared immigration and had our luggage on a trolley heading for the taxi queue. The system here works well as everyone is in a long race and you go when it is your turn.

Our hotel has a sweet smelling name, the “Fragrance Hotel Ruby”. It is part of a chain of hotels that offers cheap accommodation in Singapore. The only downside is that it is located in the Geyland Road area which is the red light district of Singapore. It is also a little further from the shopping and attractions but a good option for an overnight stay. The room is small but functional with amenities such as a hair dryer, electric jug and a large television.

I went out for a walk to check out options for dinner and was immediately struck by the number of men milling about the streets. There were hundreds of them and hardly a woman in sight. I headed down the main drag and saw a westerner sitting in a restaurant by himself. We made eye contact and I wondered over for a chat. His name was Paco and he was working here for Google. I declined his offer of a beer but spent about an hour with him just chewing the fat.

It was just after 7:00pm when I returned to the hotel. Alice said I was unlucky as she had just watched the highlights of South Sydney winning the grand final. Go the Rabbits! We decided to return to the restaurant where I had met Paco as they had Chilli Crab on the menu at a reasonable price. Paco was still there but he was chatting with one of the local prostitutes so we took a table by ourselves and placed our order. A little later Paco’s companion left and he joined us at our table. It turned out that she was in need of some cash but Paco wasn’t buying. He did however buy Alice and I a few beers and we spent a convivial evening together. Our impression was that he was a gentle soul with a generous heart.