The Red Centre Part 2

Day 12, 29th April – Alice Springs to Kings Canyon (3626km – 4116km)

It was another cold night but Alice avoided the cuddles by running the heater of the air conditioning unit all night. It certainly made the van nice and cozy. A simple breakfast was followed by a simple shower and the tedious task of packing up all the bits and pieces that get strewn about the van. Nevertheless we were on the road by 8:45am and heading south along the Stuart Highway. There wasn’t a great deal to see even though the scenery was still spectacular. Nature eventually called and we pulled over for a quick roadside rest stop at Finke River. Like all the river beds in this area it was bone dry. The stop itself would be quite okay for a free overnight camp. Just south of Finke River is the Ernest Giles Road which can cut 130km off your trip to Kings Canyon. The only problem is that it is over 100km gravel and after my previous battle with dirt in the NT I will give it a miss.

Not wanting to get caught short on fuel again we filled up at Erldunda and at $1.78 a litre it was a bargain. While I was gawking at the resident Emus, Alice paid for the fuel and a lukewarm coffee. Jemma would have sacked that barista. Kings Canyon is still another 275km away so it was a quick right turn onto the Lasseter Highway which is the main artery to Uluru. We cruised past Mt Ebenezer however the others stopped there for lunch. Sue and Lyn thought the aboriginal art that was on sale was excellent value. We did stop for lunch but the flies were so annoying that we had to take refuge inside the caravan. While we were consuming Alice’s nourishing sandwiches two cars with some foreign backpackers pulled over. There is nothing like a man throwing up into a large rubbish bin to help get you moving again. The road kill is still not happening however we have seen a few crows and some Wedgetail Eagles scrapping over a few old morsels.

Eddie has booked us a powered site at Kings Canyon resort for the next three nights. After checking in and being relieved of $150 we headed over to our site. The sites are quite level and well shaded. There are a number of amenity blocks which are satisfactory but looking a little tired. The swimming pool looked good but with weather still quite cool I could not be tempted to dive-in.

The boys arrived an hour after us which is a first for this trip. After setting up the three of us took a couple of beers up to the sunset viewing platform. It’s lucky we took our own as the resort was selling Crownies for $10.50 a bottle which equates to $252 for a carton. There is no way I could justify that amount of money to quench a thirst. Anyway the sun promptly disappeared at 6:18pm which led to a mass exodus from the viewing platform. There had been plenty of shutter noise up until them as the guests of the resort took lots of snaps of the red escarpment. With everyone gone we slowly sipped our beers and drunk in the tranquility of our surroundings. A great way to end the day.

Day 13, 30th April – Kings Canyon Rim Walk (4116km – 4136km)

Last night was a little warmer than what it had been in Alice Springs but it was still cool enough to keep us in bed until 7:00am. The sun coincidentally poked its bright orb over the escarpment at exactly the same time. Bacon and eggs for breakfast sounded good so we just had a leisurely morning. I decided to prepare our evening meal which is a nice lamb roghan josh curry.

Eddie and Macca decided to join us on the 10km drive down to the carpark at Watarrka National Park. We have decided to tackle the canyon rim walk which is about 6km long. The first section is the hardest as it is a steep climb of over 100 metres to reach the rim. The walk around the rim is breathtaking as you gaze at the red sandstone chasm that plunges over 270 metres to the canyon floor. Eddie was taking photographs left, right and centre so there is bound to a good one amongst them. After climbing down some stairs and crossing a bridge we took a detour to the aptly named Garden of Eden. There were luxuriant cycads around this permanent waterhole which also supported Red River Gums, Bottle Brushes, Fig Trees and an abundance of ferns. There was also plenty of birdlife and we saw Spinifex Pigeons, Zebra Finches, Duck  and Yellow-rumped Thornbill. The water looked very inviting and as there was no one around I thought I would go skinny dipping. My entry to the water was quite spectacular. As I approached the edge I slipped on some slimy rock and went arse over turkey into the water. Even though it was midday in the middle of the desert the water was quite bracing. I didn’t want to press my luck on anyone showing up and so after a couple of refreshing minutes it was time to exit. Over time the water and wind have eroded some areas into beehive-shaped rock formations. They are called the Lost City and if you use your imagination they might just resemble some ancient Aztec city. The walk took us approximately 3 hours 45 minutes and apart from the initial climb was not overly taxing. It is a photographic delight and a real treat for those who love to see the sights and enjoy bush walking with flies.

Back at the resort we are all having a well earned rest. With the sun close to going down we deposited ourselves in front of the van to take in the views. It might be laziness but we believed our view was every bit as good as the viewing platform minus the hordes. Just after the sun dropped below the horizon we were rewarded with a sighting of two dingoes moving through the camp area. They were looking for any scraps lying around and moved about like they owned the place. Later in the evening in the bush on the outskirts of the camp we heard them calling each other with a chorus of mournful howls.

Day 14, 1st May – Kings Creek and Kathleen Springs Walk (4136km – 4211km)

Our first walk this morning is a short 2km return stroll on reasonably flat ground which meanders along Kings Creek. The walk ends at a viewing platform which gives you a stunning view of the sheer canyon walls. Just below the platform there is a small waterhole that was so clear you could see the reflections of the Red River gums in the pool. Zebra finches kept flying in and taking advantage of the abundant water supply. There was life all around us and you could hear the native bees buzzing around the red flowers on the Holly Leaf Grevillia Trees. In the creek beds among the hollow branches of the river gums and Coolabah trees Port Lincoln Ringlets made their homes.

Our next walk was at Kathleen Springs which is another 20km down the road. Judging by the number of carparks this walk is not as popular with the tourists. There is drinking water available as well as toilets and gas barbeques. The walk is 2.6km return and graded as easy. Signs along the track tell the story of centuries of Aboriginal culture and the recent cattle industry. At the start of the walk there was an abundance of Paddy Melon vines that were loaded with fruit. Apparently this plant has been known to kill livestock. This landscape at the start of the walk was quite arid and as a result it was very hot. It also brought out he flies in such numbers that we could not stop doing the Australian salute. There were plenty of flowers blooming with the purple potato weed being a standout. We passed the old trapping yards where the cattle were herded onto trucks for shipping to Alice Springs and continued onto the delightful spring-fed waterhole at the head of Kathleen Gorge. This cool moist place would have been a great place to rest and enjoy the tranquility but the flies drove us away. We made pretty good time back to the car and managed to finish the walk in 45 minutes. I did forget to mention that my walk was made more enjoyable as Alice let me use her fly net. No guesses what I will be buying back at the resort.

With all our walks completed I decided that the caravan could use a wash. Eddie on the other hand thought it would be good to get some exercise in at the pool. The water temperature is very cool and it took him a few laps to get the blood circulating. Macca on the other hand has his priorities right and is enjoying a few cold ones. The girls are just looking good.

Our plan for the rest of the day is to enjoy the sunset over a few refreshments. The sausages are sizzling away and they will go down well with Alice’s famous potato wedges. After dinner it will be off to the Thirsty Dingo Bar to enjoy the sweet dulcet tones of Rod Dowsett singing his unique brand of country music.

Day 15, 2nd May – Kings Canyon to Uluru (4211km – 4579km)

There is no hurry this morning as it is only a mere 300km to Yalara and the Ayres Rock camping ground. Again there was no wildlife to be seen on the drive however we did see a pair of Wedgetail Eagles soaring high above on the thermals. Approximately 150km from our destination we could have sworn we had seen the rock. It turned out that it was the false rock, Mt Conner. At Curtin Springs which is 220km down the road we stopped for some fuel for the Triton and ourselves. At $1.94 per litre and $25 for the big stockman’s breakfast the mastercard copped a hammering. As we approached Yalara our Optus mobiles burst into life, how exciting! After checking-in we set up camp at one of the 176 sites. The facilities and television reception are excellent. Yalara is like a satellite town with all the mod cons such as supermarket where the prices are half as much as Kings Canyon. Should have waited before purchasing the 100g bottle of Nescafe coffee for $16.

Once we had settled in we took a drive out to Uluru which is another 20km down the road. At the park entrance we had the option of paying $25 each for a 3 day pass or $32.50 for an annual pass. As we are here for 5 days we have purchased the annual pass. Once into the park we circumnavigated the rock in a clock-wise direction. Of course we drove as it is about 10.6km around the base of the rock. We did stop for the small Kuniya 1km walk to the Mutitjulu Waterhole. There are plenty of interpretative signs to help you understand the significance of this site to Aboriginal culture. There was some aboriginal rock art but we had to keep moving quickly as the flies were out and about. As we approached the waterhole it appeared to be full of water. It turned out to be an illusion as it was only a reflection from the sandstone. This would be a magical place after a little rain.

There is a shortage of toilets in the area so it was off to the Cultural Centre for a rest break and a chance to gain some understanding of Anangu culture. There are some great Aboriginal murals which provide information on ‘Tjukurpa’ which is the traditional law guiding the Anangu and the foundation of their culture. There is also a short film which gives a good insight to their history. The building is also made from locally-made mud bricks. It represents two ancestral snakes, Kuniya the woma python woman and Liru the poisonous snake man. After all this action we had timed it perfectly to watch the sunset from one of the viewing areas inside the park. There were numerous other vehicles with the same idea but we managed to find a spot right next to Eddie and Sue. The light was magnificent and the rock glowed red as the sun dropped below the horizon. You can’t get enough of these outback sunsets as it is just a perfect way to end the day.

Day 16, 3rd May – Back to the Rock (4579km – 4632km)

After all the driving yesterday the ligaments of my left knee have tightened up which will make walking difficult. As a result we have opted to take the free ranger-guided Mala walk. This walk is only 2km return but as a guided tour you need to allow two hours. The ranger regaled us with tales of ancient battles, culture, history and how the Anangu managed the land. This is where the Mala (rufous hare-wallaby) people camped when they arrived at Uluru in the beginning. There are good examples of rock along the walk. At this time of day the sheer vertical walls provided plenty of shade as we made our way to the dry waterhole of Kantju Gorge. It is hard to believe but after a little rain this place becomes a major habitat for frogs.

Back at the main carpark the boys decided they needed to undertake some secret men’s business. We decided to tackle the Liru Walk which is a 2km hike from the base of Uluru and the Cultural Centre. The red sandy track winds through stands of Mulga and overall was a very uninspiring walk. The girls were a travelling trio of Titans as they drove off for a trip around the rock. A cup of coffee at the kiosk rounded off our morning.

Alice decided to catch up on some washing as I rested up my aching knee. The footy was on television and as I could not stand the Aussies being trounced by the Kiwis I headed off to the pool for some knee therapy.  Even though the weather is quite hot the pool is unbelievably cold. A few vigorous strokes soon got the blood pumping.

Our treat for Uluru is a flash dinner aptly named the ‘Sounds of Silence”. At $195 a head it is hard to believe that I would part with that much ready. The six of us and at least another 40 were picked up in a large bus and conveyed out into the red sandhills. When we alighted there was a short walk up a high dune which afforded us a great sunset view of Uluru. As we waited for the sun to do its magic we sipped on champagne, nibbled on canapés and listened to the serpent sounds of the local yidaki (didgeridoo) player. I didn’t know that it was called a Yidaki and that it was only played by Aboriginals who wandered from Mt. Isa northwards. With the sun gone we traipsed down the hill under a moonlit sky to our open air dinner tables. The wines and beer flowed and while we waited to be called to the buffet three local indigenous performers treated us to a number of dances. The dinner was excellent with a variety of salads, kangaroo filet, barramundi and lamb cutlets. Whilst we were enjoying our desert and port an astronomer pointed out the many stars and planets that shone brightly above our heads. All too soon the evening came to an end and we were transported back to our humble abodes. It was an expensive night out but a once in a lifetime experience.

Day 17, 4th May – Base Walk of Uluru (4632km – 4662km)

Alice and I have decided to tackle the Uluru 10.6km Base Walk today. We started at the Mala carpark and took a meandering journey through acacia woodlands and grassed claypans.  The first part of the walk followed the mala walk that we had undertaken on the previous day. As we moved around the base we could easily see the different patterns and caves on the rock face. The sun was climbing and we were glad that there was a stop where we could refill our water bottle at a point half way through our journey. As we neared the Kuniya section of the walk there were bloodwood trees that gave us some protection from the sun. The Lungkata section is the last part of the walk and is about 2km in length. Lungkata was the blue-tongued lizard man and as you walk you learn the story about him and why you should not take what is not yours. After two and a half hours we had completed what was a very satisfying walk.

The afternoon was spent around the caravan recuperating from our morning activity. This entailed some stretching, a relaxing swim and the preparation of our evening meal in our trusty Cobb cooker. The roast lamb and vegetables were sensational.

Day 18, 5th May - Kata Tjuta (The Olgas 4662km – 4826km)

This morning it is an early start as we want to get started on the walk to the ‘Valley of the Winds’ before the sun gets too high. The best laid plans seem to always go astray as we did not make it to the park boundary until just before 10:00. This was partly due to my tardiness and also having to return to camp for the camera which was still sitting on the bench top. Our first stop was about 23km from Kata Tjuta at the sunrise and sunset viewing platform. This is a short easy walk and offers a magnificent panoramic view. It is a relaxing place to sit (make sure you are wearing your fly net) and absorb this ever changing landscape.

After passing the turnoff for the 200km of dirt to Western Australia it was only a short drive to the Valley of the Winds. We set off on our walk a little after 10:30 and I was glad that I had decided to bring a jumper. Even though there were no clouds there was a chill factor from the constant wind. It is only 1.1km uphill over some loose rocks to the Karu Lookout. The view of the beehive shaped rocks that forms the Olgas is quite spectacular.  At this point you can return to the carpark but Alice and I have decided to continue walking and tackle the full circuit which includes the Karingana lookout. The track takes you down steep valleys and follows a dry creek bed. There are plenty of Desert Oaks which throw off a little shade but still no animals. The walk is graded as difficult but we would rate it as moderate for our level of fitness. It was a rewarding walk of 7.5km which took just over 2.5 hours.

We decided to take lunch in the carpark of the next walk at Walpa Gorge. Alice was preparing lunch in the presence of the ubiquitous flies when Eddie and Sue pulled up. They were off on the Gorge walk and we joined them after we had eaten. This walk is 2.6km return and is reasonably easy. The rocky track gently rises and as the gorge narrows there are great views of the sheer canyon walls. There are small caves which are supposed to be home to rock wallabies but we have not seen any. The dry stream is home to rare plants and at the end of the walk there is a grove of spearwood. As we returned to the carpark we felt quite satisfied with the time we spent at Kata Tjuta.

Time was marching on but we still had just enough time to look around the town square at Yulara. This is the location if you want to watch some free performances or partake in some activities. The IGA is also here and is the ideal place to stock up on last minute supplies especially if you are heading towards Kings Canyon. Our alcohol supplies were running low so it was off to the Pioneer Hotel to check out the prices at the bottle shop. At $35 for a six pack of James Squire I was quickly heading in the opposite direction. The late afternoon was freezing but it wasn’t cold enough to force me inside the caravan to watch “Family Feud”.