Thursday 7th April – Aalborg and Happy Anniversary
I woke up this morning feeling relaxed and excited. The excitement does not stem from the bright blue sky and the light flooding our bedroom. No, it is the day that changed my life when I first laid eyes on Alice 16 years ago. Wow, what a ride and it keeps on getting better. Well that is enough sentimentality for the moment as we come back to reality as it is time to prepare our clothes for the laundry.
Well I’m glad I did not go off on the washing trip as Lilian came back all battered and bruised. They were taking a shortcut through a construction site when she slipped and came down hard on her hip and at the same time grazing her knee and hand. Luckily there was no other damage but she is a little shaken and sore as a result of this incident.
After lunch she was feeling a little better so Joan took us for a drive across the fjord to visit Lindholm Hoje. It is one of the most notable ancient monuments in Denmark and was in use as a burial site from AD 400 to AD 1000. The oldest graves are at the top of the hill and a few skeletons from the site are on display in the museum. Most of the graves are cremation graves, where the deceased person was cremated at the grave site. The site has also uncovered a newly ploughed field that was buried under a metre of sand. Parts of a large village with wells, longhouses and pit houses have also been excavated. The attached museum shows what the village looked like over the ages, how its inhabitants dressed, how they cultivated the soil and which animals they kept. The exhibition is not huge but it is well laid out.
We finished off with a coffee and homemade bread with cheese. The chef was an amiable gentleman with a portly paunch and a booming laugh. A few hundred years earlier he could have passed for a Viking. He did tell us that the bread was made from old grains with stinging nettle the secret ingredient. He dries the nettle and then crumbles it into various dishes such as pasta and omelets. It would make an interesting recipe book. Apparently, he has also been a guest on one of Jamie Oliver’s cooking show.
Dinner tonight was a baked salmon and spinach lasagna with wine and a large bottle of Leffe Bruin.
Friday 8th April – All Aboard the 888 Bus to Vig Station
This morning it is just a matter of having a leisurely breakfast and folding yesterday’s washing. After lunch Joan drove us down to the Aalborg bus station so we could check on the departure status of the 888 bus. Once we had confirmed the location of our bus we took a leisurely stroll across the railway tracks to Aalborg's beautiful city park, Kildeparken. This park is unusual because since the mid-80s major celebrities have left living reminders of their visits by planting a tree. Sir Cliff Richard planted the first tree before he gave his concert in Aalborg Culture Centre as a reminder of his visit to the city. Since then the spade has been swung no less than 76 times when prominent guests have stuck the spade into the ground, and planted their tree in Kildeparken. At each tree planted by the artists or their representative, there will be music. A stand by the tree contains a little medley of the artist's most famous music which is activated by pressing a button. Among the 76 stars are Stevie Wonder, Guns ‘N' Roses, John Cleese, Dame Edna, Sting and James Blunt.
After visiting the park it was back to the bus terminal for our 15:00 departure on the 888. We left dead on time and were soon travelling south along the old highway towards Aarhus. There were only two stops prior to Aarhus where we picked up a handful of passengers to add to the five that departed Aalborg. The vista was once again superb but the outside temperature was a chilly 8 degrees. Alice and Lilian played a game called spot the resident in the yard. In 100 km they only saw a handful. Just after 5:15pm we hit the outskirts of Aarhus which is the second largest City in Denmark. At the bus station we just about filled the bus with passengers who wanted to travel to Zeeland. After we finished loading it was a short drive to the port where the bus joined a huge multitude of vehicles that were being driven onto the huge high-speed catamaran that would convey us all across the Kattegat. Once on board we disembarked from the bus and made our way up to the top deck restaurant. The seating area was quite crowded but we managed to steal the bus drivers reserved seat. After settling in we bought ourselves a Danish hotdog which we washed down with beer and wine. The journey across was very smooth and only took 70 minutes. Thirty five minutes later we disembarked in the middle of nowhere at Vig Station. Luckily for us it is still light and we did not have long to wait before Jens pulled up to convey us back to Ordrup which is only 15 minutes away.
Tonight there was no doubt what we would be watching on television. Denmark was playing Croatia in handball for an eventual berth in the Olympics. With 30 minutes each way of non-stop action it was highly entertaining. Denmark was the eventual winner and is now one step closer to the Olympic dream. If you have never seen a game, try watching one on you-tube. By the-way Australia has a handball team.
Saturday 9th April – Ordrup
After the excitement of last night’s game I had no trouble sleeping. In fact for the first time in eons I was able to sleep-in until after 7:00am. The sun is shining and the wind has abated which makes it absolutely balmy outside. I am in my shorts and t-shirt and getting around like it is a summer’s day. Jytte has organized me to help prepare the house for summer. It is time to dust off the patio and all the associated furniture. We even wheeled out the Webber so it would be ready for tonight’s feast.
After lunch Alice and I took a long walk. We headed off along the gravel laneways, past the many summer houses and eventually down a pedestrian pathway to the beach. There were quite a few people out and about taking advantage of the sunny weather. The water temperature is still very cold but down by the jetty there were squeals of delight or was that anguish as a number of young children leapt into the icy brine. Alice and I decided that it was more sensible to enjoy our walk in the sun than to participate in such frivolity.
Back at the summer house we took some more sun as Jytte prepared the ingredients for this evening’s meal. With my church jacket on I was in charge of the Webber and soon had it fired up and ready to accept tonight’s offering of mince patties (hamburger rissoles). With our rissoles cooked and the bread rolls heated it was time to get stuck into the meal. An added extra that I have not seen before was a Heinz product called Hamburger dressing. The ingredients had all the essential produce, including sugar that you would normally include with your burger. With dinner over it was time to watch the next Olympic qualifying handball game between Denmark and Norway. It was another exciting match and Norway led for most of the game. A late surge in the second half saw Denmark level the scores at 25 -25. They had a chance on full-time to snatch victory but their number one player (Hansen) could not convert. Denmark has to play Bahrain tomorrow.
Friday, May 13, 2016
Denmarkable
Saturday 2nd April – Ordrup to Soro
Another excellent sleep last night so I believe that my patterns are back in synchronization. A relaxing morning in Ordrup which was spent surfing the net for a reasonably priced battery for my Asus netbook. After about five years of world travel the old battery is finally on its last legs. Like me it is finding it difficult to hold a charge. As usual the cheapest ones are from China but I don’t have the luxury of being able to wait for a delivery. Enough rambling about batteries I finally found one in Denmark for about $75.
After lunch Jens packed us into the BMW to convey us to Soro where we will spend two nights with Alice and Lilian’s cousin, once removed Helle. Jens avoided the main highway and took us the scenic route through coastal towns and farmland. Along the way we passed Denmark’s oldest inn Bromølle Kro which has been in service since 1198 in the 12th century. Hard to believe something has been in operation long before America and Australia was opened to white settlement.
It is a sad day in Denmark as there is a state funeral for their former prime minister, Anker Jorgensen who passed away at the age of 93. The funeral was televised on national television and I gather that he was well revered. From a family perspective this funeral touched it as one of the pall bearers Lissa is related to Alice’s family. She was the prime minister’s personal secretary and for many years has visited and cared for him. I can’t imagine how difficult the last couple of weeks have been for her. Hopefully, she will be up for a visit to Soro tomorrow.
We arrived at Soro which is a small town bordered by a large lake. There is a large church, quaint shops with a cobbled street running past the main square and church. It was a pleasure to reacquaint ourselves with Jon who appears to be getting younger and to finally meet Helle and their two gorgeous daughters Sophie and Emma. They have a beautiful large house with a backyard that is larger than the combined area of our Milton and Currimundi abodes. The rear of the house overlooks the lake and is separated only by the walking trail that circumnavigates the lake. After coffee we all took a short walk along the foreshore which culminated at the old private school. Some of the out-buildings must be well over a hundred years old. Judging by the photographs on the wall of the local kayak club there are some really big fish that inhabit the lake.
Back at the house Jon plied me with some exotic craft beers and the girls enjoyed a couple of wines. As I watched Jon prepare the evening meal I thought that he could get a gig on Masterchef. He works with great speed and purpose whilst listening to the top 500 heavy metal tracks. He prepared a great meal of baked Atlantic Salmon with a sauce that was to die for. For the record and our later use I think the sauce was constructed as follows.
· Finely chopped red onion, sautéed in olive oil with some salt and pepper.
· When softened add a good drop of white wine and a touch of chicken stock
· Stir, reduce and add a little more wine and season to taste
· To finish stir in some cream and slightly reduce
· Pour generously over the Salmon
An amazing dinner, a couple of beers and wines and it was off to bed.
Sunday 3rd April - Soro
This morning was a leisurely affair as we grazed over a sumptuous breakfast. Lilian has decided to say in with Emma and wait for Lissa’s arrival. The rest of us however are going to tackle the 9km lake circuit. It is perfect walking weather as it is still cool and not too many clouds. I was amazed to see plenty of joggers, bicycle riders and a few elderly people out and about. The Danes appear to be a very energetic nation. The deciduous trees are still without leaves so we still get some sunshine penetrating what would be otherwise a very thick canopy. At various intervals there are small jetties protruding out onto the lake which gives you another perspective on how large this body of water is. When we were about two thirds into our journey I could feel a code yellow coming on. Not knowing the Danish etiquette for peeing in nature I sucked in my stomach muscles, lengthened my stride and headed for the town centre for some relief. With that business taken care of we rejoined the trail and finished off the walk which took a little over two hours.
When we arrived Lissa was there and you could tell that she was emotionally worn out from the funeral. Nevertheless she is a trooper and it was good to be able to spend time with her. Prior to lunch Jon and I spent some time with the girls practicing our ski jumping on the Wi machine (don’t know if I spelt that correctly). Needless to say that the girls were far better than me at this extreme sport. Another delicious lunch was followed by some quiet time and the news that the West Indies had just won the 20-20 world cup in spectacular fashion.
With the sun not going down until about 7:30pm it is easy to forget when dinner should be prepared. Luckily, we have Jon to think for us as he has once again jumped into dynamic action and whipped up some nachos and Mexican fajitas with all the accompaniments. He certainly has some skills and once again it was a sensory delight. No heavy drinking tonight as the non-travellers have to work and go off to school.
Monday 4th April – Soro to Aalborg
I managed to get up early as I wanted to say goodbye to Jon and the girls. Our Aussie kids get it easy as Sophie and Emma both have to be at school for an 8:00am start. Helle is working from home and has graciously given up her time to drive us to the station. We had a terrific time in Soro and Jon and Helle could not have been more hospitable. I hope that they will make the big trip down under as we would love to spend some more time with them.
Helle ensured that we were on the right train and the correct carriage for our 10:50 departure to Aalborg. Was the smile on her face one of joy for having met us or the fact that they are finally getting their house back after back to back visitors. I think it was for having met us. The trip to Aalborg is a little over 350km and takes just four hours on the intercity express train. With a little help from Joan who is Helle’s mum I managed to purchase our tickets on-line prior to leaving home. The cost of this internet booking was around $37.
Once on board we were seated in a 2x2 configuration and shared our area with a gentleman of Eastern European persuasion. Lilian ever the pessimist was glad that he was not carrying a backpack. I think that he may have been Turkish. He slept for most of the trip as there is plenty of legroom and the seats are very comfortable. After about twenty minutes of travel through the panoramic countryside the train dipped into a long tunnel before emerging onto what was the longest rail bridge in the world. The bridge itself connects the Danish islands of Zeeland where the capital Copenhagen is located to the island of Fyn. The main city on Fyn is Odense which was the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen. Our journey continued onwards and within the next hour we crossed a fjord which brought us onto mainland Europe and the area of Jutland. In between towns with quaint names such as Middelfart and Hobro the countryside was dotted with farms.
At the major town of Aarhus which is Denmark’s second largest city we thought we had to change trains to catch the InterCity 337. With a little help from a Danish lady we discerned that all we had to do was change carriages. The train departed on time and 90 minutes later we pulled into Aalborg at 14:50. When we alighted our grand cousin Joan was waiting for us. In no time Joan had us comfortably seated in her Renault Clio and ready to begin another leg of our European vacation. It is always a pleasure staying with relatives like her as she has gone out of her way to make our stay memorable. For instance she has given up her bed for Alice and me and also gone to the trouble of preparing a welcome kit for the three of us. Dinner tonight was delicious slices of roasted ham with creamy baked potato and salad. For yours truly there were even icy cans of Tuborg beer.
Tuesday 5th April – Toppen af Danmark (Top of Denmark)
After a leisurely breakfast of rye bread with cheese, muesli with yogurt, coffee and Danish pastries it was time to hit the road for the top of Denmark. Our route took us across the Limfjorden to Norresundby and then along route 55 to the west coast. This section of Denmark is still part of Jutland but it is an island which is separated by the fjord. Our journey on this route was almost devoid of traffic and travelled through farmland that supported dairy cattle grazing on rich pastures. Occasionally a startled hare would dart across the open fields. As we neared the coastline you could nearly taste the salt as it was being carried inland by the incessant wind.
Rubjerg Knude Lighthouse which is located on the coast of the North Sea just south of Lonstrup was our first stop. It was first lit in December 1900.The lighthouse is on the top of Lonstrup Klint (cliff), 60 metres above sea level. Both shifting sands and coastal erosion are a serious problem in the area. The coast is eroded on average 1.5 metres a year, which can be seen most clearly as you peer over the edge of the cliff from the ruins of the dismantled buildings. Fortunately for us we were able to get up to the old light via the recently installed interior flight of steps. The view of the desert like dunes and the sea was worth the climb. It is expected that due to the erosion the lighthouse will topple into the sea in the next 10 to 15 years.
A few kilometres down the road was the fishing village of Lonstrup. The sea which has provided the livelihood for generations is now threatening to devour the cliff on which the town was built. The locals have built a series of stone walls to help stabilize the cliff. The village is popular for artisans as there are a number of galleries and open workshops. We took a stroll along the winding high street past well-maintained old fishermen’s houses, painters, glassblowers, potters and goldsmiths. We ultimately stopped for lunch at a cozy restaurant that offered a lunch meal deal that included a filet of flounder. I washed the meal down with a pint of the local stout.
It was time to hit the road again and back to route 55. Our travels took us past numerous camp sites that were starting to get a few caravans prior to the summer rush. We had a two minute look at the town of Hirtshals where large boats take on passengers and cars to destinations like Norway. We took route 597 to the east coast and then hung a left onto route 40 for a twenty five kilometre drive to the end of the road at Grenen. The entire region at the Top of Denmark has been shaped by the wind and the sea. The absolute tip, Lands End, at Grenen is a piece of Denmark that is not easy to pin down. It is constantly moving, depending on the direction of the wind and the ocean currents. By the time we reached Grenen the clouds had appeared and the wind was at a debilitating chill factor. For that reason we dipped our toes in the Kattegat which was a couple of hundred metres short of where the two seas, the Skagerrak and the Kattegat meet. So close but yet so far. During World War 2 the top of Denmark was also the German’s bridgehead to Norway. The German fortification of the Danish west coast was the biggest construction project in Denmark’s history and took place between 1941 and 1944. There are a number of Bunker Museums on the island and they are well worth a visit.
Our next stop was on the outskirts of the picturesque small town of Skagen to take a gander at the oldest lighthouse in Denmark. The Vippefyret, Skagen lighthouse was built in 1627 and is like no other lighthouse that I have seen. It looks more like a medieval catapult as it is cantilevered to hoist a basket of fire or burning coals 10 metres into the air. We stopped at Skagen in search of a steaming hot coffee and cake. The main shopping street is lined with buildings that were built in the early 1900’s but today they were nearly devoid of people. I think that was due to the lateness of the day and the wind that could have frozen the proverbials off a brass monkey. Joan was on a mission for coffee but was being hampered at every turn as everything was closing for the day. Eventually we found a Belgian Waffle shop that was still open. We ended up with a very rich waffle topped with ice-cream and smothered with chocolate sauce. The percolated coffee was very bland but it helped to warm us up.
The top of Denmark is also excellent for cycling and hiking due to the flatness of the terrain. The North Sea Trail runs all the way round the North Sea through Denmark, Germany and the Netherlands. You can also hike the well signposted Ancient Road Haervejen which is part of the historic pilgrims’ route from the cathedral in Trondheim, Denmark to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Anyone up for a stroll!
The journey back to Aalborg was just over 100km and the rain from the south had finally reached us. We travelled back on route 40 to Frederikshavn and then took the E45 expressway. In the conditions Joan drove with controlled expertise and delivered us safely back to the unit at 18:30. After such a large lunch today we had a simple meal of Danish hotdogs. I of course washed this down with a few Tuborgs.
Wednesday 6th April – Downtown Aalborg
Today is not a rush day so we took our time over breakfast before heading off to the downtown area. Joan showed us where she grew up and then took us to the cemetery where her mother and father are interred. The cemetery itself was the best kept graveyard that I have ever seen. The plots were a reflection of the love each family held for those who had passed before them.
In the downtown area it was quite busy and Joan had a hard time finding a place to park. As we left the car-park I thought that it was going to be an extraordinary long day. It had nothing to do with the extended hours of daylight but more to do because of how bitterly cold it was. The last time I was so cold it was blowing a gale in Iceland. I was so thankful when Joan directed us to a shop that was operated by the Church that was selling second-hand clothes. I soon found a jacket that reeked of warmth and had my name written on it. Fifty five Danish Kroner ($11) I was standing outside as warm as toast feeling like I was king of the world. And so it goes! We wandered around the old part of the City along cobblestone streets seeking out the poorer quarters where the ragged people go (Gotta Love Simon and Garfunkel). Seriously though, Joan did lead us through some interesting parts of the City.
Around lunch time I was forced onto the suffering seat as the girls trolled through the Sailing Department store. Just outside the store there is a lift that transports you down to the Middle Ages. As you exit the lift there is a well laid out small museum which exhibits the subterranean remains of the medieval Greyfriars Monastery. In one of the display cases there is a complete human skeleton. You can also see what ancient monastic life may have been like as well as the remains of the monastery’s foundations. By the time I returned to the surface the girls had still not returned from their shopping foray so I dutifully took up my position on the suffering seat. Eventually, they returned so we took a break and had lunch at the department store.
Joan took us on a walking tour which started with Jens Bangs House which was built by the wealthy Jens in 1642. In spite of his wealth he was never made a member of the town council and he can be seen sticking out his tongue at the town hall. The building façade is covered with caricatures of what many say were his enemies. Sweet revenge for old Jens Bang! The town hall that Jens sneered at was the predecessor of the present modern building that was constructed in 1759. Cook still had not made it to Australia! The square in front of the town hall is the oldest in the City and marks the city centre. Distances from Aalborg are still measured from this place and the stone column in the middle of the square is the zero kilometre stone. The highlight of the walk was not the Sogaards Bryghus which offers gastronomical delights as well as their own special beers but the imposing Budolfi Cathedral. Work has been going on here for over 800 years and the baroque spire is the trademark of the city. Inside the church on the cross vaulting you can see fine frescoes of the four evangelists. The last of the historical sites that we visited was the Monastery of the Holy Ghost. We went into the outer courtyard with its well preserved fountain and had a great look at the outside architecture of the building.
At this stage I managed to wangle a leave pass for an hour as the girls wanted to browse a few stores and look at the Utzon Centre. Utzon was the Danish architect who designed the Sydney Opera House. My plan was to head to a pub and purchase a ticket for the Aalborg Beerwalk. I made my way to the John Bull Pub where they had a huge range of beers on tap. For DKK100 I purchased my Beerwalk kit which consisted of a tasting glass, six beer vouchers and a map showing the location of the participating establishments. I started with a John Bull dark ale and a Founders All Day Session IPA which is brewed in Grand Rapids, Michigan. Across the road in one of the historic buildings that lines Osteragade Street was the Irish House. When I entered the bar I was greeted in an Irish brogue by the owner Jerome. I also increased the patronage by 100percent to a total of one. There were plenty of beers on tap and as time was running out I decided to off load all of my remaining vouchers here. I started with a dark ale and followed with a Galway Hooker Irish Pale Ale which is brewed on the west coast of Ireland. It was well balanced, fully flavoured with a great finish making it a highly refreshing and more-ish beer. It was getting close to my departure time for the Utzon centre so I quickly knocked back my last beer which was a draft of Guinness.
When I emerged back out onto the street I was amazed to see that it was raining. I met Alice at the centre and we headed up the street to the imposing Musikkens Hus. With its circular windows, raw concrete exterior and soft, drop-like interiors it is architectonic landmark on the waterfront. The rain had now eased off so we headed back to the car-park passing the Abbey Road Café along the way.
Back home again and Joan whipped up a delicious meal of rissoles with onion gravy and baby potatoes whose origin was possibly Spain. A cheeky bottle of Chianti complemented the meal.
Another excellent sleep last night so I believe that my patterns are back in synchronization. A relaxing morning in Ordrup which was spent surfing the net for a reasonably priced battery for my Asus netbook. After about five years of world travel the old battery is finally on its last legs. Like me it is finding it difficult to hold a charge. As usual the cheapest ones are from China but I don’t have the luxury of being able to wait for a delivery. Enough rambling about batteries I finally found one in Denmark for about $75.
After lunch Jens packed us into the BMW to convey us to Soro where we will spend two nights with Alice and Lilian’s cousin, once removed Helle. Jens avoided the main highway and took us the scenic route through coastal towns and farmland. Along the way we passed Denmark’s oldest inn Bromølle Kro which has been in service since 1198 in the 12th century. Hard to believe something has been in operation long before America and Australia was opened to white settlement.
It is a sad day in Denmark as there is a state funeral for their former prime minister, Anker Jorgensen who passed away at the age of 93. The funeral was televised on national television and I gather that he was well revered. From a family perspective this funeral touched it as one of the pall bearers Lissa is related to Alice’s family. She was the prime minister’s personal secretary and for many years has visited and cared for him. I can’t imagine how difficult the last couple of weeks have been for her. Hopefully, she will be up for a visit to Soro tomorrow.
We arrived at Soro which is a small town bordered by a large lake. There is a large church, quaint shops with a cobbled street running past the main square and church. It was a pleasure to reacquaint ourselves with Jon who appears to be getting younger and to finally meet Helle and their two gorgeous daughters Sophie and Emma. They have a beautiful large house with a backyard that is larger than the combined area of our Milton and Currimundi abodes. The rear of the house overlooks the lake and is separated only by the walking trail that circumnavigates the lake. After coffee we all took a short walk along the foreshore which culminated at the old private school. Some of the out-buildings must be well over a hundred years old. Judging by the photographs on the wall of the local kayak club there are some really big fish that inhabit the lake.
Back at the house Jon plied me with some exotic craft beers and the girls enjoyed a couple of wines. As I watched Jon prepare the evening meal I thought that he could get a gig on Masterchef. He works with great speed and purpose whilst listening to the top 500 heavy metal tracks. He prepared a great meal of baked Atlantic Salmon with a sauce that was to die for. For the record and our later use I think the sauce was constructed as follows.
· Finely chopped red onion, sautéed in olive oil with some salt and pepper.
· When softened add a good drop of white wine and a touch of chicken stock
· Stir, reduce and add a little more wine and season to taste
· To finish stir in some cream and slightly reduce
· Pour generously over the Salmon
An amazing dinner, a couple of beers and wines and it was off to bed.
Sunday 3rd April - Soro
This morning was a leisurely affair as we grazed over a sumptuous breakfast. Lilian has decided to say in with Emma and wait for Lissa’s arrival. The rest of us however are going to tackle the 9km lake circuit. It is perfect walking weather as it is still cool and not too many clouds. I was amazed to see plenty of joggers, bicycle riders and a few elderly people out and about. The Danes appear to be a very energetic nation. The deciduous trees are still without leaves so we still get some sunshine penetrating what would be otherwise a very thick canopy. At various intervals there are small jetties protruding out onto the lake which gives you another perspective on how large this body of water is. When we were about two thirds into our journey I could feel a code yellow coming on. Not knowing the Danish etiquette for peeing in nature I sucked in my stomach muscles, lengthened my stride and headed for the town centre for some relief. With that business taken care of we rejoined the trail and finished off the walk which took a little over two hours.
When we arrived Lissa was there and you could tell that she was emotionally worn out from the funeral. Nevertheless she is a trooper and it was good to be able to spend time with her. Prior to lunch Jon and I spent some time with the girls practicing our ski jumping on the Wi machine (don’t know if I spelt that correctly). Needless to say that the girls were far better than me at this extreme sport. Another delicious lunch was followed by some quiet time and the news that the West Indies had just won the 20-20 world cup in spectacular fashion.
With the sun not going down until about 7:30pm it is easy to forget when dinner should be prepared. Luckily, we have Jon to think for us as he has once again jumped into dynamic action and whipped up some nachos and Mexican fajitas with all the accompaniments. He certainly has some skills and once again it was a sensory delight. No heavy drinking tonight as the non-travellers have to work and go off to school.
Monday 4th April – Soro to Aalborg
I managed to get up early as I wanted to say goodbye to Jon and the girls. Our Aussie kids get it easy as Sophie and Emma both have to be at school for an 8:00am start. Helle is working from home and has graciously given up her time to drive us to the station. We had a terrific time in Soro and Jon and Helle could not have been more hospitable. I hope that they will make the big trip down under as we would love to spend some more time with them.
Helle ensured that we were on the right train and the correct carriage for our 10:50 departure to Aalborg. Was the smile on her face one of joy for having met us or the fact that they are finally getting their house back after back to back visitors. I think it was for having met us. The trip to Aalborg is a little over 350km and takes just four hours on the intercity express train. With a little help from Joan who is Helle’s mum I managed to purchase our tickets on-line prior to leaving home. The cost of this internet booking was around $37.
Once on board we were seated in a 2x2 configuration and shared our area with a gentleman of Eastern European persuasion. Lilian ever the pessimist was glad that he was not carrying a backpack. I think that he may have been Turkish. He slept for most of the trip as there is plenty of legroom and the seats are very comfortable. After about twenty minutes of travel through the panoramic countryside the train dipped into a long tunnel before emerging onto what was the longest rail bridge in the world. The bridge itself connects the Danish islands of Zeeland where the capital Copenhagen is located to the island of Fyn. The main city on Fyn is Odense which was the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen. Our journey continued onwards and within the next hour we crossed a fjord which brought us onto mainland Europe and the area of Jutland. In between towns with quaint names such as Middelfart and Hobro the countryside was dotted with farms.
At the major town of Aarhus which is Denmark’s second largest city we thought we had to change trains to catch the InterCity 337. With a little help from a Danish lady we discerned that all we had to do was change carriages. The train departed on time and 90 minutes later we pulled into Aalborg at 14:50. When we alighted our grand cousin Joan was waiting for us. In no time Joan had us comfortably seated in her Renault Clio and ready to begin another leg of our European vacation. It is always a pleasure staying with relatives like her as she has gone out of her way to make our stay memorable. For instance she has given up her bed for Alice and me and also gone to the trouble of preparing a welcome kit for the three of us. Dinner tonight was delicious slices of roasted ham with creamy baked potato and salad. For yours truly there were even icy cans of Tuborg beer.
Tuesday 5th April – Toppen af Danmark (Top of Denmark)
After a leisurely breakfast of rye bread with cheese, muesli with yogurt, coffee and Danish pastries it was time to hit the road for the top of Denmark. Our route took us across the Limfjorden to Norresundby and then along route 55 to the west coast. This section of Denmark is still part of Jutland but it is an island which is separated by the fjord. Our journey on this route was almost devoid of traffic and travelled through farmland that supported dairy cattle grazing on rich pastures. Occasionally a startled hare would dart across the open fields. As we neared the coastline you could nearly taste the salt as it was being carried inland by the incessant wind.
Rubjerg Knude Lighthouse which is located on the coast of the North Sea just south of Lonstrup was our first stop. It was first lit in December 1900.The lighthouse is on the top of Lonstrup Klint (cliff), 60 metres above sea level. Both shifting sands and coastal erosion are a serious problem in the area. The coast is eroded on average 1.5 metres a year, which can be seen most clearly as you peer over the edge of the cliff from the ruins of the dismantled buildings. Fortunately for us we were able to get up to the old light via the recently installed interior flight of steps. The view of the desert like dunes and the sea was worth the climb. It is expected that due to the erosion the lighthouse will topple into the sea in the next 10 to 15 years.
A few kilometres down the road was the fishing village of Lonstrup. The sea which has provided the livelihood for generations is now threatening to devour the cliff on which the town was built. The locals have built a series of stone walls to help stabilize the cliff. The village is popular for artisans as there are a number of galleries and open workshops. We took a stroll along the winding high street past well-maintained old fishermen’s houses, painters, glassblowers, potters and goldsmiths. We ultimately stopped for lunch at a cozy restaurant that offered a lunch meal deal that included a filet of flounder. I washed the meal down with a pint of the local stout.
It was time to hit the road again and back to route 55. Our travels took us past numerous camp sites that were starting to get a few caravans prior to the summer rush. We had a two minute look at the town of Hirtshals where large boats take on passengers and cars to destinations like Norway. We took route 597 to the east coast and then hung a left onto route 40 for a twenty five kilometre drive to the end of the road at Grenen. The entire region at the Top of Denmark has been shaped by the wind and the sea. The absolute tip, Lands End, at Grenen is a piece of Denmark that is not easy to pin down. It is constantly moving, depending on the direction of the wind and the ocean currents. By the time we reached Grenen the clouds had appeared and the wind was at a debilitating chill factor. For that reason we dipped our toes in the Kattegat which was a couple of hundred metres short of where the two seas, the Skagerrak and the Kattegat meet. So close but yet so far. During World War 2 the top of Denmark was also the German’s bridgehead to Norway. The German fortification of the Danish west coast was the biggest construction project in Denmark’s history and took place between 1941 and 1944. There are a number of Bunker Museums on the island and they are well worth a visit.
Our next stop was on the outskirts of the picturesque small town of Skagen to take a gander at the oldest lighthouse in Denmark. The Vippefyret, Skagen lighthouse was built in 1627 and is like no other lighthouse that I have seen. It looks more like a medieval catapult as it is cantilevered to hoist a basket of fire or burning coals 10 metres into the air. We stopped at Skagen in search of a steaming hot coffee and cake. The main shopping street is lined with buildings that were built in the early 1900’s but today they were nearly devoid of people. I think that was due to the lateness of the day and the wind that could have frozen the proverbials off a brass monkey. Joan was on a mission for coffee but was being hampered at every turn as everything was closing for the day. Eventually we found a Belgian Waffle shop that was still open. We ended up with a very rich waffle topped with ice-cream and smothered with chocolate sauce. The percolated coffee was very bland but it helped to warm us up.
The top of Denmark is also excellent for cycling and hiking due to the flatness of the terrain. The North Sea Trail runs all the way round the North Sea through Denmark, Germany and the Netherlands. You can also hike the well signposted Ancient Road Haervejen which is part of the historic pilgrims’ route from the cathedral in Trondheim, Denmark to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Anyone up for a stroll!
The journey back to Aalborg was just over 100km and the rain from the south had finally reached us. We travelled back on route 40 to Frederikshavn and then took the E45 expressway. In the conditions Joan drove with controlled expertise and delivered us safely back to the unit at 18:30. After such a large lunch today we had a simple meal of Danish hotdogs. I of course washed this down with a few Tuborgs.
Wednesday 6th April – Downtown Aalborg
Today is not a rush day so we took our time over breakfast before heading off to the downtown area. Joan showed us where she grew up and then took us to the cemetery where her mother and father are interred. The cemetery itself was the best kept graveyard that I have ever seen. The plots were a reflection of the love each family held for those who had passed before them.
In the downtown area it was quite busy and Joan had a hard time finding a place to park. As we left the car-park I thought that it was going to be an extraordinary long day. It had nothing to do with the extended hours of daylight but more to do because of how bitterly cold it was. The last time I was so cold it was blowing a gale in Iceland. I was so thankful when Joan directed us to a shop that was operated by the Church that was selling second-hand clothes. I soon found a jacket that reeked of warmth and had my name written on it. Fifty five Danish Kroner ($11) I was standing outside as warm as toast feeling like I was king of the world. And so it goes! We wandered around the old part of the City along cobblestone streets seeking out the poorer quarters where the ragged people go (Gotta Love Simon and Garfunkel). Seriously though, Joan did lead us through some interesting parts of the City.
Around lunch time I was forced onto the suffering seat as the girls trolled through the Sailing Department store. Just outside the store there is a lift that transports you down to the Middle Ages. As you exit the lift there is a well laid out small museum which exhibits the subterranean remains of the medieval Greyfriars Monastery. In one of the display cases there is a complete human skeleton. You can also see what ancient monastic life may have been like as well as the remains of the monastery’s foundations. By the time I returned to the surface the girls had still not returned from their shopping foray so I dutifully took up my position on the suffering seat. Eventually, they returned so we took a break and had lunch at the department store.
Joan took us on a walking tour which started with Jens Bangs House which was built by the wealthy Jens in 1642. In spite of his wealth he was never made a member of the town council and he can be seen sticking out his tongue at the town hall. The building façade is covered with caricatures of what many say were his enemies. Sweet revenge for old Jens Bang! The town hall that Jens sneered at was the predecessor of the present modern building that was constructed in 1759. Cook still had not made it to Australia! The square in front of the town hall is the oldest in the City and marks the city centre. Distances from Aalborg are still measured from this place and the stone column in the middle of the square is the zero kilometre stone. The highlight of the walk was not the Sogaards Bryghus which offers gastronomical delights as well as their own special beers but the imposing Budolfi Cathedral. Work has been going on here for over 800 years and the baroque spire is the trademark of the city. Inside the church on the cross vaulting you can see fine frescoes of the four evangelists. The last of the historical sites that we visited was the Monastery of the Holy Ghost. We went into the outer courtyard with its well preserved fountain and had a great look at the outside architecture of the building.
At this stage I managed to wangle a leave pass for an hour as the girls wanted to browse a few stores and look at the Utzon Centre. Utzon was the Danish architect who designed the Sydney Opera House. My plan was to head to a pub and purchase a ticket for the Aalborg Beerwalk. I made my way to the John Bull Pub where they had a huge range of beers on tap. For DKK100 I purchased my Beerwalk kit which consisted of a tasting glass, six beer vouchers and a map showing the location of the participating establishments. I started with a John Bull dark ale and a Founders All Day Session IPA which is brewed in Grand Rapids, Michigan. Across the road in one of the historic buildings that lines Osteragade Street was the Irish House. When I entered the bar I was greeted in an Irish brogue by the owner Jerome. I also increased the patronage by 100percent to a total of one. There were plenty of beers on tap and as time was running out I decided to off load all of my remaining vouchers here. I started with a dark ale and followed with a Galway Hooker Irish Pale Ale which is brewed on the west coast of Ireland. It was well balanced, fully flavoured with a great finish making it a highly refreshing and more-ish beer. It was getting close to my departure time for the Utzon centre so I quickly knocked back my last beer which was a draft of Guinness.
When I emerged back out onto the street I was amazed to see that it was raining. I met Alice at the centre and we headed up the street to the imposing Musikkens Hus. With its circular windows, raw concrete exterior and soft, drop-like interiors it is architectonic landmark on the waterfront. The rain had now eased off so we headed back to the car-park passing the Abbey Road Café along the way.
Back home again and Joan whipped up a delicious meal of rissoles with onion gravy and baby potatoes whose origin was possibly Spain. A cheeky bottle of Chianti complemented the meal.
LORD and LADY KAWAKU’s EUROPEAN VACATION
Tuesday 29th March – Brisbane to Sydney (Happy Birthday Annie)
Well this is a different approach to starting a European vacation as we are heading to Sydney to catch our Emirates flight to Dubai. There is a reason for this tactic as we have a guaranteed upgrade to business class for this leg of our journey. Oh how sweet it is even though it will cost us an armful of frequent flyer points. Anyway today’s journey starts with Lilian depositing us at Brisbane’s domestic terminal where we will board a QANTAS flight to Sydney.
The journey down was uneventful but Sydney greeted us with overcast skies and the promise of rain. We opted for a taxi to the Aspire Hotel which would be our home for at least a few hours. The taxi cost was around $34 which compares favourably with the cost of the airport shuttle. Our digs were not quite ready but I had a bit of a problem as I did not bring the credit card that I had booked the room with. The staff were good and eventually we sorted it out with Lilian scanning my card and emailing it to me. We even scored an upgrade to a deluxe room.
After storing our bags we headed out into Sydney rain with an umbrella the size of the Harbour Bridge and sporting the Aspire Hotel logo. It was only a short walk past the Powerhouse Museum to Chinatown. On a whim we tried to find a Turkish eatery in the Market Place where we had dined on a previous trip several years before. After only a few minutes we chanced upon and handed over the princely sum of $8 for a freshly cooked Potato and Spinach Gozleme. Delicious!
With our tummies sated and thanks to a little technology we trudged off into the rain for eight blocks to have a couple of craft beers at the Red Oak Brewery in Clarence Street. We started with a taster board which was reasonable value at $12. I quickly moved onto the Stout and finished with an extra strong bitter. Being a Tuesday the atmosphere was quiet and relaxing. At around 5:30pm we pulled up stumps and headed outside for a 1.5km walk to the La Pesa Trattoria restaurant at 174 Liverpool Street. Our table is booked for 6:00 as we need to finish early as our flight departs Sydney at 6:00am. I have to say that this is one of the best Groupons that I have purchased as the food was sensational. The antipasta was to die for and the mains were fresh and tasty. Alice could not finish her main but she did make room for the desert which was included. We heard another couple mention to the owner that they had an early flight the next day and that they really enjoyed travelling business class. We joked that it would be funny if they were on the same flight.
The rain had stopped so we decided to walk back to the hotel which was a good way to divorce ourselves of a few calories. Along the way we saw a few homeless people sleeping rough. It is a tough existence for those who live on the fringe of our communities.
Wednesday 30th March – Sydney to Dubai
As usual before a long flight we only managed a fitful couple of hours sleep. We didn’t need the alarm that went off on time at 2:30am as we were already up and about. As we stepped into the foyer our limousine driver was waiting to convey us to the airport. One good thing at this time of the morning is there is absolutely no traffic. It was a little after 3:00am and there were already a substantial number of passengers queuing up at the economy check-in counter. Fortunately for us our queue is short and we were sorted in no time. Imagine my disappointment when we found out that we would have to sit around outside for forty minutes as immigration did not open to 4:00am. There wasn’t much point getting there 3 hours early. By the way the couple from the restaurant last night were the first ones to reach the business class lounge closely followed by us and the Jordanian soccer team.
Our flight started with a chilled glass of Moet and departed on time for our 14 hour flight to Dubai. The movie selection was extensive so it wasn’t long before the first movie of the flight was scrolling across the screen. A hearty breakfast soon followed and afterwards we tried for a little shut-eye. Alice managed a couple of broken hours but sleep alluded me like the winning lotto numbers. After watching another movie I headed down to the bar where I sampled a couple of cheeky glasses of shiraz from the Margaret River region of Western Australia. I was joined by the gentleman from La Pesa who incidentally went by the moniker of David. We had a pleasant chat while the women slumbered on. A couple of more movies, cocktails and a large lunch and we were ready to head into UAE airspace. There was a backlog of flights waiting to land so our big 380 cruised around for another hour. We finally touched down just before 2:00pm.
Our flight to Copenhagen is not until 8:20am tomorrow so Emirates is putting us up at the Copthorne Hotel. We had no sooner jumped into our chauffeured car when the driver pulled into the hotel. I reckon we are only a soft boiled egg away from the airport. Our hotel stay also comes with complimentary lunch, dinner and breakfast not that we need any more food at the moment. As we are still very tired we have decided to forego a City or sunset tour. It is a balmy 34 degrees outside so I decided to spend some time by the pool. There were a few people enjoying a beer but I refrained for the time being.
At 7:30 pm it had just turned dark which was the signal to head down to the lobby for dinner. There was a large buffet on offer with a leaning towards Indian cuisine. The samosas appeared to attract the attention of an Arabian version of Homer Simpson who managed to pile a plate as high as the Himalayas. He certainly had the capacity to put it away as he finished well before we did. Our evening finished with a poolside walk and listening to a very talented local duet serenading the guests. It would have been a great spot to spend the evening but sleep beckons as well as a 5:00am wake up call.
Thursday 31st March – Dubai to Copenhagen
Five a clock already, I was just in the middle of a dream….Oh how I wish as once again we have been woken by the internal alarm clock. I guess it must be the fear of missing our flights. The restaurant opened dead on time at 5:30am which gave us time to woof down a quick breakfast. There is a free shuttle bus to the airport which delivered us promptly to the departures level of the airport. Travel time, check-in, immigration and the train to terminal A took 45minutes.
We headed off to gate A3 in search of Lilian who we found ambling along the walkway without a care in the world. She looked remarkably refreshed for someone who had just spent 14 hours on a plane. We found a little coffee shop and bought 3 coffees and a bottle of water. After checking my credit card statement I found that it had cost $29. Ouch, that hurt and to top it off the coffee was terrible.
It is now back to reality as our 6.25 hour flight to Copenhagen is in economy class. We have managed to get our seats on the top deck of the A380 where they have a few rows of double seats. I must say that I was quite comfortable in this configuration. A couple of meals and two movies later it was touchdown in Copenhagen on time at 1:00pm. Once again the slowest part of our journey was the retrieval of our luggage from the carousel. From the moment the plane docked into the air-gate it was a staggering 60 minutes before our bags were delivered. Throughout all this Jens was waiting patiently for us to emerge from the bowels of baggage collection. With hugs all-around we were ushered off to the BMW chariot and were soon on our way to the summer house in Ordrup.
Jens is a convivial host and had soon cracked a fine bottle of Italian red as well as a Leffe Negra for me. Jytte arrived from Roskilde a fraction before 5:00pm and has graciously given up her room for Alice and me. After a few more beers and a delicious beef stroganoff the accumulated loss of sleep began to catch-up on Lilian and me. Stifling my yawning was becoming difficult so without further adieu it was off to bed for what I hoped would be a long sleep.
Friday 1st April – Ordrup, April Fools Day
Finally, I have slept through the night without waking up for endless hours. Jens soon had the coffee machine in full order which was a perfect start to what looks like a great day. Although the sun is shining it is only 4 degrees but it should get past 10 degrees later in the day. After breakfast it was a quick trip to the local shops to purchase some provisions for tonight’s cod dinner. The countryside at the moment is dry but starting to green up as the Spring weather starts to warm up.
After a delicious lunch of rye bread, smoked trout, liver paste, tomato and beetroot the girls decided to take a walk down to Victory Bay to take in the views. Jens tempted me with a true Danish treat which when translated to English was the ‘garbage run”. We loaded up the beamer with the remnants of last night’s empty cans and bottles and went for a country drive to the recycling plant. Unlike home the Danes are more serious about their environment and support it by having plants that are easily accessible and there is no charge. We were greeted by a rather large Danish chap sporting a ubiquitous yellow safety shirt who directed us to our disposal bin. The rest of our trip was spent driving around the countryside and through small hamlets with buildings that bespoke of a time long since past. Farmers were busy ploughing fields and sowing potatoes that should be ready for harvest before we get back from the road trip.
After a relaxing afternoon of doing nothing it was time for the cod dinner with shallots, asparagus and potato. To finish off we had a decadent piece of strawberry tart which Jens had purchased from a bakery a few kilometres from Ordrup.
Well this is a different approach to starting a European vacation as we are heading to Sydney to catch our Emirates flight to Dubai. There is a reason for this tactic as we have a guaranteed upgrade to business class for this leg of our journey. Oh how sweet it is even though it will cost us an armful of frequent flyer points. Anyway today’s journey starts with Lilian depositing us at Brisbane’s domestic terminal where we will board a QANTAS flight to Sydney.
The journey down was uneventful but Sydney greeted us with overcast skies and the promise of rain. We opted for a taxi to the Aspire Hotel which would be our home for at least a few hours. The taxi cost was around $34 which compares favourably with the cost of the airport shuttle. Our digs were not quite ready but I had a bit of a problem as I did not bring the credit card that I had booked the room with. The staff were good and eventually we sorted it out with Lilian scanning my card and emailing it to me. We even scored an upgrade to a deluxe room.
After storing our bags we headed out into Sydney rain with an umbrella the size of the Harbour Bridge and sporting the Aspire Hotel logo. It was only a short walk past the Powerhouse Museum to Chinatown. On a whim we tried to find a Turkish eatery in the Market Place where we had dined on a previous trip several years before. After only a few minutes we chanced upon and handed over the princely sum of $8 for a freshly cooked Potato and Spinach Gozleme. Delicious!
With our tummies sated and thanks to a little technology we trudged off into the rain for eight blocks to have a couple of craft beers at the Red Oak Brewery in Clarence Street. We started with a taster board which was reasonable value at $12. I quickly moved onto the Stout and finished with an extra strong bitter. Being a Tuesday the atmosphere was quiet and relaxing. At around 5:30pm we pulled up stumps and headed outside for a 1.5km walk to the La Pesa Trattoria restaurant at 174 Liverpool Street. Our table is booked for 6:00 as we need to finish early as our flight departs Sydney at 6:00am. I have to say that this is one of the best Groupons that I have purchased as the food was sensational. The antipasta was to die for and the mains were fresh and tasty. Alice could not finish her main but she did make room for the desert which was included. We heard another couple mention to the owner that they had an early flight the next day and that they really enjoyed travelling business class. We joked that it would be funny if they were on the same flight.
The rain had stopped so we decided to walk back to the hotel which was a good way to divorce ourselves of a few calories. Along the way we saw a few homeless people sleeping rough. It is a tough existence for those who live on the fringe of our communities.
Wednesday 30th March – Sydney to Dubai
As usual before a long flight we only managed a fitful couple of hours sleep. We didn’t need the alarm that went off on time at 2:30am as we were already up and about. As we stepped into the foyer our limousine driver was waiting to convey us to the airport. One good thing at this time of the morning is there is absolutely no traffic. It was a little after 3:00am and there were already a substantial number of passengers queuing up at the economy check-in counter. Fortunately for us our queue is short and we were sorted in no time. Imagine my disappointment when we found out that we would have to sit around outside for forty minutes as immigration did not open to 4:00am. There wasn’t much point getting there 3 hours early. By the way the couple from the restaurant last night were the first ones to reach the business class lounge closely followed by us and the Jordanian soccer team.
Our flight started with a chilled glass of Moet and departed on time for our 14 hour flight to Dubai. The movie selection was extensive so it wasn’t long before the first movie of the flight was scrolling across the screen. A hearty breakfast soon followed and afterwards we tried for a little shut-eye. Alice managed a couple of broken hours but sleep alluded me like the winning lotto numbers. After watching another movie I headed down to the bar where I sampled a couple of cheeky glasses of shiraz from the Margaret River region of Western Australia. I was joined by the gentleman from La Pesa who incidentally went by the moniker of David. We had a pleasant chat while the women slumbered on. A couple of more movies, cocktails and a large lunch and we were ready to head into UAE airspace. There was a backlog of flights waiting to land so our big 380 cruised around for another hour. We finally touched down just before 2:00pm.
Our flight to Copenhagen is not until 8:20am tomorrow so Emirates is putting us up at the Copthorne Hotel. We had no sooner jumped into our chauffeured car when the driver pulled into the hotel. I reckon we are only a soft boiled egg away from the airport. Our hotel stay also comes with complimentary lunch, dinner and breakfast not that we need any more food at the moment. As we are still very tired we have decided to forego a City or sunset tour. It is a balmy 34 degrees outside so I decided to spend some time by the pool. There were a few people enjoying a beer but I refrained for the time being.
At 7:30 pm it had just turned dark which was the signal to head down to the lobby for dinner. There was a large buffet on offer with a leaning towards Indian cuisine. The samosas appeared to attract the attention of an Arabian version of Homer Simpson who managed to pile a plate as high as the Himalayas. He certainly had the capacity to put it away as he finished well before we did. Our evening finished with a poolside walk and listening to a very talented local duet serenading the guests. It would have been a great spot to spend the evening but sleep beckons as well as a 5:00am wake up call.
Thursday 31st March – Dubai to Copenhagen
Five a clock already, I was just in the middle of a dream….Oh how I wish as once again we have been woken by the internal alarm clock. I guess it must be the fear of missing our flights. The restaurant opened dead on time at 5:30am which gave us time to woof down a quick breakfast. There is a free shuttle bus to the airport which delivered us promptly to the departures level of the airport. Travel time, check-in, immigration and the train to terminal A took 45minutes.
We headed off to gate A3 in search of Lilian who we found ambling along the walkway without a care in the world. She looked remarkably refreshed for someone who had just spent 14 hours on a plane. We found a little coffee shop and bought 3 coffees and a bottle of water. After checking my credit card statement I found that it had cost $29. Ouch, that hurt and to top it off the coffee was terrible.
It is now back to reality as our 6.25 hour flight to Copenhagen is in economy class. We have managed to get our seats on the top deck of the A380 where they have a few rows of double seats. I must say that I was quite comfortable in this configuration. A couple of meals and two movies later it was touchdown in Copenhagen on time at 1:00pm. Once again the slowest part of our journey was the retrieval of our luggage from the carousel. From the moment the plane docked into the air-gate it was a staggering 60 minutes before our bags were delivered. Throughout all this Jens was waiting patiently for us to emerge from the bowels of baggage collection. With hugs all-around we were ushered off to the BMW chariot and were soon on our way to the summer house in Ordrup.
Jens is a convivial host and had soon cracked a fine bottle of Italian red as well as a Leffe Negra for me. Jytte arrived from Roskilde a fraction before 5:00pm and has graciously given up her room for Alice and me. After a few more beers and a delicious beef stroganoff the accumulated loss of sleep began to catch-up on Lilian and me. Stifling my yawning was becoming difficult so without further adieu it was off to bed for what I hoped would be a long sleep.
Friday 1st April – Ordrup, April Fools Day
Finally, I have slept through the night without waking up for endless hours. Jens soon had the coffee machine in full order which was a perfect start to what looks like a great day. Although the sun is shining it is only 4 degrees but it should get past 10 degrees later in the day. After breakfast it was a quick trip to the local shops to purchase some provisions for tonight’s cod dinner. The countryside at the moment is dry but starting to green up as the Spring weather starts to warm up.
After a delicious lunch of rye bread, smoked trout, liver paste, tomato and beetroot the girls decided to take a walk down to Victory Bay to take in the views. Jens tempted me with a true Danish treat which when translated to English was the ‘garbage run”. We loaded up the beamer with the remnants of last night’s empty cans and bottles and went for a country drive to the recycling plant. Unlike home the Danes are more serious about their environment and support it by having plants that are easily accessible and there is no charge. We were greeted by a rather large Danish chap sporting a ubiquitous yellow safety shirt who directed us to our disposal bin. The rest of our trip was spent driving around the countryside and through small hamlets with buildings that bespoke of a time long since past. Farmers were busy ploughing fields and sowing potatoes that should be ready for harvest before we get back from the road trip.
After a relaxing afternoon of doing nothing it was time for the cod dinner with shallots, asparagus and potato. To finish off we had a decadent piece of strawberry tart which Jens had purchased from a bakery a few kilometres from Ordrup.
Wednesday, December 16, 2015
Adventures in Economy - Hawaii Part 3
Thursday, 19th November – Another Day at the Office
It is a little like Groundhog Day as Tony and I have had bacon, fried eggs and pork beans for breakfast followed by another workout at the gym. The girls went off for Pilates and an aqua fitness class. I must be enjoying the holiday as I made the mistake of jumping on the scales at the gym. To my chagrin I’ve added another 3kg in under three weeks.
I spent most of the afternoon trying to work out the most economical way for us to travel from KoOlina to Waikiki. Julie ended up finding a site for star taxis which is a discount taxi company. I called them and they quoted $US80 for the trip which is much cheaper than all the other options. I booked the trip and will probably use them for our transfer to the airport from Waikiki as they only charge $US30. www.startaxihawaii.com
The romantic sunset on the beach has been relegated to the back burner as the rain god has chosen to open up the heavens this afternoon. Alice and I stayed in doors but Tony and Julie backed up for a line dancing or boot scooting class. They returned looking all sweaty but a champagne and a beer perked them up. Dinner tonight is at the hotel’s longboard restaurant. There was no need to book as the rain is keeping everybody away including the local entertainer. The food was just okay but the atmosphere made up for it.
Friday, 20th November – Who’ll Stop The Rain
There was no need to hurry out of bed this morning as it is still raining. We checked out of our room at 10:00am and Julie arranged for our bags to be stored and a pass so that we could use the facilities. Tony and I hit the gym again however the girls had to be content with slumming it in the hot tub as all outdoor activities have been cancelled due to the rain.
There were some indoor activities available so Tony and Julie signed up for some Ukulele lessons whilst Alice and I contented ourselves with some light reading. Tony returned with a good understanding of the requisite skills he needed to be a player. Fortunately, for us he did not burst into a rendition of Tiny Tim’s “Tip Toe Through The Tulips”. Our Star Taxi arrived at 2:00pm and it comfortably fitted us all in and had ample room for our luggage. The driver did inform us that the company gets many calls from Australia for airport pickups. All you have to do is contact them the day before you fly out, give them your relevant flight details etc and they will meet you at the airport.
The trip to Waikiki was uneventful and took just under an hour. Our salubrious lodgings will be the not so five star budget Holiday Surf Hotel. It is located about a 10 minute walk to the beach and is next to the Ala Wai Canal on the very busy Ala Wai Boulevard. Our budget price of approximately $US95 per night isn’t too bad as our rooms have a reasonable kitchen with basic utensils. The only downside is that the noise emanating from the vehicular traffic is exacerbated by the squelching rubber on the wet tarmac. Our only solution was to crank up the air conditioner to drown out the noise.
The hotel staff are very helpful and pointed us in the direction of a reasonably sized and priced supermarket. We purchased enough supplies to last us a few days but Tony and I had to return to ensure we had enough beer for our evening respite. When it was time for bed I thought that I had not turned off the light. I then realized that we have a street light directly outside our third storey window which throws a bright yellow light through our threadbare curtains. Fortunately we both managed to drop off to sleep without the usual tossin’ and turnin’.
Saturday, 21st November – Waikiki
This morning we caught up with Sue and Russell at the Outrigger Waikiki Hotel for a look at the Ukulele Guild of Hawaii’s annual exhibition. Some of the instruments that were on display were works of art and were for sale for over $US2000. There were also some groups playing traditional Hawaiian songs accompanied by singers old and young. The rain had eased off so we took a long walk along the shoreline passing the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, U.S. Army museum and the Hilton Hawaiian Village. The latter sits next to the Ala Wai Yacht Club and is a huge complex with its own beach and private lagoon which appears to be well favoured by blushing Japanese brides.
The weather was still quite ordinary so the girls decided that some shop trolling would be a good way to spend some time. Tony and I being perfect husbands quickly acquiesced to their very reasonable request. From the yacht club it was only a short walk to the huge Ala Moana Shopping Centre. We knew that we were on the right path as we could see other tourists happily toting bargains back to their hotels in well filled Macy bags. After a spot of lunch in the food court we bid the girls farewell and set off for a leisurely stroll around the shops. We soon became bored but had a knowing laugh when we saw all the other men sitting in the suffering seats. Tony was looking a tad disheveled and went looking for a barber. He found one that was doing a brisk business which was either a good indication that it was cheap or they were good at their work. With his decision made he entered the shop and was soon in the hands of the world’s oldest hairdressers. She was probably cutting hair when Pearl Harbor was bombed. I was in fear for his ears as I had grave doubts that she could still hold the scissors with a steady hand. Nevertheless his ears remained intact and he emerged looking more handsome than ever. For three hours worth of shopping the girls returned with surprisingly little merchandise. Well there is always tomorrow!
Meanwhile back at the hotel we have freshened ourselves up and are ready to meet Sue and Russell at the Waolina Cocktail Lounge for a pre-dinner cocktail. Russell chose this place as the happy hour runs from noon until six in the evening. The beers were $2, Mai Tai’s $4 and the service terrible. In the hour that we were there we did manage to get two beers. Afterwards we took a long walk back to the Outrigger Hotel for a dinner with the Ukulele Guild. The buffet dinner was good and Tony could not resist going back for seconds as there was so much food leftover. His only mistake was that he did not have a knife or fork as they had already been taken away. Luckily, Sue had a set of used utensils which did the trick. The highlight of the evening was the concert that featured highly skilled Ukulele players who tested their abilities on instruments that were constructed by guild members. It was interesting to have a brief synopsis of the different materials used in construction and the sound that they were trying to achieve. A Japanese maker used a Vienna spruce that was harvested on a full moon light. Apparently that has an impact on the amount of moisture in the timber. A great night, with great music and a perfect way to end the day.
Sunday, 22nd November – Waikiki Rain
Well our walk up to Diamond Head is definitely cancelled for today as it is bucketing down. All this rain is a little unusual so the girls decided that they would check out a few of the local shops. Tony and I dropped them off at the Ross, Dress for Less store with instructions to meet us for lunch at 1:00pm at the Long Yard bar for a late lunch. With the rain pelting down Tony and I headed for some covered walkways which are few and far between on the streets of Waikiki in search of a hot coffee. After all we did not want to start too early at the Long Yard. Eventually we found a good coffee brew house and managed to kill an hour or so by people watching. When the clock struck twelve we headed straight to the bar and pulled up a stool with a good view of the street. There are about 150 beers on tap so we decided to try an IPA sampler. There were six small beers to sample and at a fraction over $US10 reasonable value. The following will be of interest to beer drinkers only and is a small description of our two favourites.
1. Breakside Wunderlust IPA 6.4% from Portland – A golden IPA made with 5 different hops, intense grapefruit and dank notes with a crisp finish.
2. Rouge Farms 7 Hop IPA 8% from Oregon – utilizes all 7 hops grown in the hopyard of Rouge Farms. This blend is then added to 3 varieties of Rouge Farms malt and brewed with free range Oregon costal waters.
As we were finishing off the tasting Alice arrived without any purchases. Fifteen minutes later Julie also arrived in a similar vein. It turns out that they had bought so much booty that they had to return to the hotel. The girls quickly ordered a cocktail and placed an order for lunch. The still thirsty boys were hooked on the IPA so an order for a half yard of Deschutes Inversion IPA was placed. We were still drinking that beastie long after devouring our lunch. As discriminating hop heads and at 6.8% this big, bold IPA’s intense multi-hop kick gets a subtle dose of restraint from select Munich and Caramel malts. As you can tell we think this is an amazing beer.
Back at the hotel the four of us combined our food resources and had a nice cheap dinner which was followed by a reasonably early night.
Monday, 23rd November – Big Fat Rain and Waikele Premium Outlet
The rain is still coming down but the girls are undaunted as they are booked on a Roberts Bus Shuttle ($US15 return) which is leaving Waikiki at 9:30am. We don’t expect them to return until after 6:00pm which means we have a free day. Around 10:30 and in between downpours we caught up with Russell and went for a stroll around Waikiki looking for a coffee shop that had a spare table with dry seats. After much searching we ended up down near the Long Yard and enjoyed a nice strong latte. With the rain still tumbling down we decided that it was time to have a salty dip in the briny waters of Waikiki. After all we couldn’t get any wetter. The water was warm but the area where we chose to swim was full of rocks of all sizes. It wasn’t too deep but you couldn’t see the bottom as the stormy weather had churned up the sand. We lasted for about fifteen minutes which also gave us the opportunity for a code yellow.
Russell had some business to catch up on so we left him to his own devices. We still had a couple of steaks in the refrigerator so a steak sandwich was the order of the day. A quick bus trip and the purchase of a new pair of runners filled in the afternoon. Russell had promised us a couple of beers so we headed up to his hotel. A large Hawaiian woman was on duty so we told her we were here to visit Mr. Russell in room 401. This was when our Basil Fawlty moment occurred. She then asked if we wanted a room. No, I want to visit Russell I replied. What is your room number she said. I don’t have a room, I’m only visiting…. This went backwards and forwards like an old tape recording. Eventually, she looked at the register and said Sue room 206. Seems like Sue was the magic word and Russell does not know his room number!
Anyhow we made it to the room and killed a couple of beers whilst looking out the window in anticipation of the girls return. Being impeccable husbands we decided to meet them at the drop off point to assist them in the carriage of the recently purchased chattels. After waiting for more than 45 minutes we gave up and adjourned to a bar across the road. We had no sooner sat down for a drink when they were spotted walking up the street clutching an array of bags which included Victoria Secret. The bus had apparently dropped them outside the store so they justifiably had spent the last 45 minutes there. We decided to try dinner some Udon Noodles for dinner and chose Marukame Udon Restaurant (Address: 2310 Kuhio Ave). There is always a queue outside which is testament to its popularity and value for money. The wait in line is relatively short as the diners move on once they have eaten. Guests order at the counter at this casual Japanese restaurant specializing in noodle soup. It is not a place for chatting or sipping slowly on a glass of wine. I’m not a fan of noodles but the general opinion was that the food was excellent.
Back at Sue and Russell’s the girls displayed all of the bargains that they had purchased. Alice also did a little shimmy wearing her Victoria Secret outfit. No more to be said about that!
Tuesday, 24th November – Diamond Head
The weather has finally cleared up so after breakfast we jumped on the number 23 bus (number 2 also available) and headed up to Diamond Head ($1 admission) to hike around the crater and the top of the rim. We arrived at the drop off point about 15 minutes later. It was only mid-morning but given the good weather it seemed that every tourist was out to hike the trail. There’s just something empowering about walking up the side of an extinct volcano. More than 3,500 feet in diameter with a 760-foot summit, Diamond Head in Waikiki is perhaps the world’s most recognized volcanic crater. It is a lasting remnant of a volcanic explosion that occurred about 500,000 years ago. Ancient Hawaiians called it Laeahi, which translates to “brow of the tuna.” The name “Diamond Head” can be traced to the 1800s, when British sailors mistakenly thought there were diamonds lodged in the crater’s soil. The “diamonds” turned out to be calcite crystals embedded in the lava rock.
The 0.7-mile hike up Diamond Head is considered a moderate climb and takes about an hour to reach the summit, and half that time for the return. The trail climbs the inside slope of Diamond Head for about 0.6 miles. It’s a switchback trail with the mountain on one side and a railing on the other. After a lookout point that doubles as a rest stop, the trail takes a steep upward ascent through a series of stairs and tunnels. The last set of stairs is a 99-step climb—just take it slow and steady—that eventually leads to a World War II bunker. From there, the stairs reach an end and you step up to some of the finest panoramic views on Oahu. We took a short walk around and savored the moment. The day was clear and in the distance we could see the island of Molokai. Standing atop the lookout, viewing Oahu’s entire leeward side, feeling the trade winds and hearing waves crashing far below, you can’t help but feel humbled to be on this glorious island.
Tip: Go in the early morning or late afternoon if you want to avoid potential crowds.
After a light lunch Alice and I thought it was time to have a swim in the warm waters and gentle swell of Waikiki. My thoughts are that the stretch of sand adjacent to the statue of Duke Kahanamoku is the most ideal spot for a swim. The Duke was an Olympic swimming gold medalist and is widely credited with popularizing the ancient Hawaiian sport of surfing. A patch of sand to place our towels was difficult to find but we finally secured a patch a few rows back from the surf. This is the place to come if you want to learn to surf as it is a gentle wave that starts to form right out the back and has enough power to get you moving. You can swim out for over 100 metres and still touch the bottom. The most dangerous place here is right on the beach as the waves break on the shoreline. After a relaxing swim it was back to the hotel for a mini-break before heading out for dinner.
Julie chose tonight’s destination the Waikiki Sky Lounge after reading a review in the good old Sunday Mail. The lounge is on the 19th floor of Sky Waikiki and as we found out from the surly hostess it is best to have a reservation even if you arrive at 5:00pm. On the deck, you have an almost-360 degree view of Waikiki, including views of the ocean, Diamond Head, Waikiki Beach and the famous, pink Royal Hawaiian hotel. Buildings block some of the dazzling sunset, but you’ll forget about that once the sun goes down and the city’s twinkling lights turn on around you while breathing the fresh air. Surprisingly, that given the view the drinks were reasonably priced. The staff were quite good but on principle we did not leave a tip due to the attitude of the hostess.
Wednesday, 25th November – Pearl Harbor and Swap Meet
We were up bright and early this morning as we are planning to catch public transport out to Pearl Harbor. Alice isn’t 100 percent today so has decided to recuperate at the hotel. Good weather again today so Tony, Julie and I boarded bus 42 (also No.20) at 7:00am and arrived at Pearl right on 8:00am. This coincided with the playing of the National Anthem and out of respect we joined the Americans who were paying homage to the flag. I lined up for tickets and managed to get us on the 8:45am tour. Entry to Pearl Harbor and the 75 minute tour of the USS Arizona Memorial are free. This is the number one visitor destination for Hawaii and given the history it is easy to understand why. The visitor centre features museums, theatres, wayside exhibits and panoramic views of Pearl Harbor. As you travel by launch to the memorial the battleship USS Missouri can be seen in the background. The Arizona Memorial is built over the remains of the sunken battleship USS Arizona, the final resting place for many of the 1,177 crewmen killed on December 7, 1941 when their ship was bombed by Japanese Naval Forces. The tour is a very poignant and emotional reminder of what was a horrific time in our history. As a reminder Darwin was bombed by the Japanese on 19th February, 1942. You could easily spend the whole day here as there is plenty to see with the Missouri and Blowfin exhibits.
After completing our tour of Pearl Harbor we hopped on Shanks’ Pony for ten minutes and dropped in at the Aloha Stadium for the Wednesday Swap meet. We could have caught the bus but it was only two stops up the road. Since 1979, the Aloha Stadium Swap Meet has become Hawaii's premier outdoor market, featuring over 400 vendors, crafters, artists from all over the world, a true melting pot of Aloha.
Thursday, 26th November – Thanksgiving and Circle Tour
When we awoke this morning I couldn’t believe the weather. Yes it is promising to rain on Thanksgiving Day and ruin our day out to the North Shore. After picking up our Chrysler 300 series from Dollar Rentals (If renting a car in Hawaii I would recommend using https://www.hawaiidiscount.com/rental-cars.htm) we picked up the girls and headed in an anticlockwise direction from Waikiki.
The rain is currently holding off so we were able to get a nice view of the Diamond Head Lighthouse from the roadside lookout below the crater. There were a few police cars about but they were doing point duty for what appeared to be a half marathon. Judging by the caliber of runners a few of them should have stayed at home.
With Julie providing the navigation we found our way onto route 72, the Kalaniannaole Highway, try saying that with a mouthful of dry weet-bix. Along the way we stopped off at
· Koko Crater View Point
· Hanauma Bay which is supposed to be a great snorkeling area. There is a $1 charge for vehicles and $7.50 per person. We didn’t avail ourselves of this option as the weather was beginning to get dirty.
· Molokai Lookout
· Halona Blowhole – don’t know if you need big waves to set it off but I’ve seen more smoke from one of my mate Gene’s cigarettes
At the end of route 72 we hung a right onto route 61, Kailua Road so we could have a look at what is supposed to be the best beach on the island. A couple of wrong turns later I thought that I was in Forest Lake with all the cul-de-sacs and roads that turned into each other. Just to top it off there was even a man-made lake. We never did find the beach but Julie did manage to get us onto the H3 and then route 83, the Kamehameha Highway. Alice and Tony were starting to get a bit growly as they both needed some caffeine. We decided to stop for a brew at Kahana but alas like the Polynesian Cultural Centre and the Shrimp Shack it was closed for Thanksgiving. By this time the rain was coming down in torrents and driving was becoming more difficult.
Eventually we spotted a lone roadside diner that had a flashing neon sign in red declaring that it was open. Keneke’s Grill at Punaluu was a godsend in more ways than one. The food was reasonably priced and delicious but what tickled our fantasy was that the entire wall of the dining area was covered in quotes from various bible scriptures. After lunch and a few kilometres up the road we came upon the first of quite a few Shrimp Trucks which are an institution on the North Shore. I couldn’t come all this way without trying some of these tasty crustaceans. The lucky recipient of our $US13 was Fumi’s who cooked up some rice and about 10 prawns in butter and garlic. I reckon we all had great garlic breath after that feed. Tony and Julie also opted for the Dole Pineapple whip ice-cream. I was doing a little bus spotting so on a whim I followed the number 52 into the Turtle Bay Resort. The golf course was immaculate and had the requisite 5 star hotel attached. There were also condominiums butting up against the fairways. I think you would need a pretty penny to stay here.
Finally we reached Hawaii’s big wave area and our first stop was Sunset Beach which appeared to be hosting a leg of the world surfing tour. Even with the rain pelting down finding a parking space was difficult. Alice and Julie braved the wind and the rain and reported that a few brave souls were out testing their mettle against the big surf. Just up the road was the famous Banzai Pipeline and I had a look at the surf which was big but not huge. The lifeguards were on duty but they only had to keep their eyes on a couple of guys.
Further up the road was the turnoff for Waimea Valley and waterfall which we decided to bypass in favour of Waiimea Bay. Surprisingly, there was very little swell and not a soul swimming. At every beach park there were Hawaiian families doing their best to celebrate Thanksgiving. Most of them were stuck under gazebos but one hardy bunch was having a game of volley ball or should I say mud ball. By this time we had just about had enough but we soldiered on to the historic hamlet of Haleiwa. Just about everything was shut so we headed off to route 99, Kamehameha Highway in search of the Dole Pineapple Plantation. The place was jam packed with Japanese tourists who could not get enough of the food and the pineapple inspired souvenirs. My impression was that it was like the old big pineapple at Nambour but with bigger crowds. On a fine day you could have boarded the pineapple express for a tour of the plantation or tried your luck navigating your way through the world’s biggest maze.
Tony and I consider ourselves sensitive new aged guys who are tuned in on the same wavelength as our wives. With this in mind we pointed the Chrysler 300 in the direction of the Waikele Premium Outlet for a last assault on the specials. We arrived just after 4:00pm which was perfect timing as stores like Old Navy were just opening their doors for “Black Friday” specials. The majority of stores will be opening all night and I mean all night and will finally close at midnight on Friday. The girls did manage to acquire a couple of more items. Next sensitive stop was at the Ross Dress For Less located near the Ala Moana Shopping Centre. The girls decided that they would get in early on all the specials so Tony and I left them to their own devices and headed back to Waikiki to return the hire car. It was still raining so we caught the free Dollar shuttle back to the Food Pantry for some supplies. We entertained ourselves with a couple of beers whilst watching all the action unfolding on the street below us. A little after 9:00pm we saw the girls walking down the street carrying more goods than a Sherpa on the Annapurna trail. After showing off their booty it was time for bed and some well earned shut-eye.
Friday, 27th November – Black Friday, Waikiki
This is our penultimate day in Hawaii so we decided to do virtually nothing. Nothing naturally included another trip to Ross, Macy’s and Victoria Secret. I actually came away with the best purchase of the entire trip. At the Ross store I spent $3.99 and came away with a Danos Direct type product. You have probably guessed that it was the “Potato Express” which is used for cooking potatoes in the microwave oven. Yep 4 potatoes can be cooked to perfection in 6 to 8 minutes. www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QTQD354JJc
Tony and I returned to the hotel and the girls said that they would be back soon after. We decided that a swim down near the statue of the Duke would be beneficial to our health. Unlike yesterday the sun was out and so were the sand worshippers. We managed to find a place for our personal gear and spent a good hour just swimming and floating about. To finish off we took a walk around the streets and discovered that you could hire Paddle Boards and Surf Boards at a cheaper rate from the stores about a block back from the beach. Carrying a board an extra block is not a great imposition if it saves you a few dollars whilst giving you a little extra exercise. Back at the hotel and still no sign of the girls. They eventually returned and once again were fully laden. Julie has also made a good decision to purchase a large suitcase from our old friend Ross to ensure that she can transport all our goodies home.
Our last meal tonight is a roast dinner cooked by Julie in her apartment. Tony and I assisted by purchasing some champagne and beers to celebrate what has been a fabulous trip. The meal was delicious and the company even better.
Saturday, 28th November – Homeward Bound
This morning Alice and I decided to treat ourselves to the breakfast special at the Seaside Bar and Grill. As much as I enjoyed the breakfast I find that it is near nigh impossible to consume two huge pancakes on top of bacon and two eggs done easy over. After breakfast we had a last little walk around the shopping precinct before heading back to the hotel to finish packing.
We have pre-booked our Star Taxi for 11:15am for our trip to the Honolulu International Airport. http://www.startaxihawaii.com/ At a cost of $US30 for the four of us it is good value. Our flight is not until 2:35pm so we should have plenty of time to pass through the rigors of Airport Security. The driver was a little early so we ended up at the airport about 3 hours before departure. The check-in line for Hawaiian Airlines looked horrendous but fortunately for us that was for domestic travel. Tip- Allow at least two hours for check-in and security if you are flying domestic out of Honolulu. The international check-in was much more civilized and I estimate that it took only about 25 minutes to complete that process as well as security. The airport seems to be poorly laid out as we had to walk quite a distance to another terminal building to find our departure gate. With a little time to kill before boarding we headed our separate ways for a spot of lunch.
The plane started boarding just before 2:00pm and wasn’t quite full. We have once again been allocated our exit aisle seat which will make it a more relaxing flight home. We really recommend spending the extra $110 to secure one of these berths. Our take-off was spot on time for our 10 hour flight home to Australia. Somewhere before the international dateline Tony and I caught up at the rear of the aircraft for a couple of wines and idle chit-chat. The steward did not need any cajoling to top up our plastic wineglass. Actually, the service from the on-board staff is excellent. A spot of turbulence sent us scurrying back to our seats and another movie.
Sunday, 29th November – Home
One minute it is Saturday and the next it is Sunday and so it goes when you cross the dateline towards Australia. The rest of the flight was uneventful as we cruised towards Brisbane. Touchdown and that feeling of being home starts to overwhelm you. Apart from sitting on the tarmac for 45 minutes after landing it was a good trip. No hassles with immigration apart from Julie and Alice being unrecognizable on their E-Passports (Tip – don’t forget to remove your glasses from your face or top of your head if they are not on the passport photo). No problems either with the baggage or customs. The other nice thing about traveling is when you are met at the airport by family or friends. On this occasion it was Jemma who had volunteered to pick-up the ‘rents’ and it brought a tear to the old boy’s eyes as she gave each of us a welcome home hug.
It is a little like Groundhog Day as Tony and I have had bacon, fried eggs and pork beans for breakfast followed by another workout at the gym. The girls went off for Pilates and an aqua fitness class. I must be enjoying the holiday as I made the mistake of jumping on the scales at the gym. To my chagrin I’ve added another 3kg in under three weeks.
I spent most of the afternoon trying to work out the most economical way for us to travel from KoOlina to Waikiki. Julie ended up finding a site for star taxis which is a discount taxi company. I called them and they quoted $US80 for the trip which is much cheaper than all the other options. I booked the trip and will probably use them for our transfer to the airport from Waikiki as they only charge $US30. www.startaxihawaii.com
The romantic sunset on the beach has been relegated to the back burner as the rain god has chosen to open up the heavens this afternoon. Alice and I stayed in doors but Tony and Julie backed up for a line dancing or boot scooting class. They returned looking all sweaty but a champagne and a beer perked them up. Dinner tonight is at the hotel’s longboard restaurant. There was no need to book as the rain is keeping everybody away including the local entertainer. The food was just okay but the atmosphere made up for it.
Friday, 20th November – Who’ll Stop The Rain
There was no need to hurry out of bed this morning as it is still raining. We checked out of our room at 10:00am and Julie arranged for our bags to be stored and a pass so that we could use the facilities. Tony and I hit the gym again however the girls had to be content with slumming it in the hot tub as all outdoor activities have been cancelled due to the rain.
There were some indoor activities available so Tony and Julie signed up for some Ukulele lessons whilst Alice and I contented ourselves with some light reading. Tony returned with a good understanding of the requisite skills he needed to be a player. Fortunately, for us he did not burst into a rendition of Tiny Tim’s “Tip Toe Through The Tulips”. Our Star Taxi arrived at 2:00pm and it comfortably fitted us all in and had ample room for our luggage. The driver did inform us that the company gets many calls from Australia for airport pickups. All you have to do is contact them the day before you fly out, give them your relevant flight details etc and they will meet you at the airport.
The trip to Waikiki was uneventful and took just under an hour. Our salubrious lodgings will be the not so five star budget Holiday Surf Hotel. It is located about a 10 minute walk to the beach and is next to the Ala Wai Canal on the very busy Ala Wai Boulevard. Our budget price of approximately $US95 per night isn’t too bad as our rooms have a reasonable kitchen with basic utensils. The only downside is that the noise emanating from the vehicular traffic is exacerbated by the squelching rubber on the wet tarmac. Our only solution was to crank up the air conditioner to drown out the noise.
The hotel staff are very helpful and pointed us in the direction of a reasonably sized and priced supermarket. We purchased enough supplies to last us a few days but Tony and I had to return to ensure we had enough beer for our evening respite. When it was time for bed I thought that I had not turned off the light. I then realized that we have a street light directly outside our third storey window which throws a bright yellow light through our threadbare curtains. Fortunately we both managed to drop off to sleep without the usual tossin’ and turnin’.
Saturday, 21st November – Waikiki
This morning we caught up with Sue and Russell at the Outrigger Waikiki Hotel for a look at the Ukulele Guild of Hawaii’s annual exhibition. Some of the instruments that were on display were works of art and were for sale for over $US2000. There were also some groups playing traditional Hawaiian songs accompanied by singers old and young. The rain had eased off so we took a long walk along the shoreline passing the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, U.S. Army museum and the Hilton Hawaiian Village. The latter sits next to the Ala Wai Yacht Club and is a huge complex with its own beach and private lagoon which appears to be well favoured by blushing Japanese brides.
The weather was still quite ordinary so the girls decided that some shop trolling would be a good way to spend some time. Tony and I being perfect husbands quickly acquiesced to their very reasonable request. From the yacht club it was only a short walk to the huge Ala Moana Shopping Centre. We knew that we were on the right path as we could see other tourists happily toting bargains back to their hotels in well filled Macy bags. After a spot of lunch in the food court we bid the girls farewell and set off for a leisurely stroll around the shops. We soon became bored but had a knowing laugh when we saw all the other men sitting in the suffering seats. Tony was looking a tad disheveled and went looking for a barber. He found one that was doing a brisk business which was either a good indication that it was cheap or they were good at their work. With his decision made he entered the shop and was soon in the hands of the world’s oldest hairdressers. She was probably cutting hair when Pearl Harbor was bombed. I was in fear for his ears as I had grave doubts that she could still hold the scissors with a steady hand. Nevertheless his ears remained intact and he emerged looking more handsome than ever. For three hours worth of shopping the girls returned with surprisingly little merchandise. Well there is always tomorrow!
Meanwhile back at the hotel we have freshened ourselves up and are ready to meet Sue and Russell at the Waolina Cocktail Lounge for a pre-dinner cocktail. Russell chose this place as the happy hour runs from noon until six in the evening. The beers were $2, Mai Tai’s $4 and the service terrible. In the hour that we were there we did manage to get two beers. Afterwards we took a long walk back to the Outrigger Hotel for a dinner with the Ukulele Guild. The buffet dinner was good and Tony could not resist going back for seconds as there was so much food leftover. His only mistake was that he did not have a knife or fork as they had already been taken away. Luckily, Sue had a set of used utensils which did the trick. The highlight of the evening was the concert that featured highly skilled Ukulele players who tested their abilities on instruments that were constructed by guild members. It was interesting to have a brief synopsis of the different materials used in construction and the sound that they were trying to achieve. A Japanese maker used a Vienna spruce that was harvested on a full moon light. Apparently that has an impact on the amount of moisture in the timber. A great night, with great music and a perfect way to end the day.
Sunday, 22nd November – Waikiki Rain
Well our walk up to Diamond Head is definitely cancelled for today as it is bucketing down. All this rain is a little unusual so the girls decided that they would check out a few of the local shops. Tony and I dropped them off at the Ross, Dress for Less store with instructions to meet us for lunch at 1:00pm at the Long Yard bar for a late lunch. With the rain pelting down Tony and I headed for some covered walkways which are few and far between on the streets of Waikiki in search of a hot coffee. After all we did not want to start too early at the Long Yard. Eventually we found a good coffee brew house and managed to kill an hour or so by people watching. When the clock struck twelve we headed straight to the bar and pulled up a stool with a good view of the street. There are about 150 beers on tap so we decided to try an IPA sampler. There were six small beers to sample and at a fraction over $US10 reasonable value. The following will be of interest to beer drinkers only and is a small description of our two favourites.
1. Breakside Wunderlust IPA 6.4% from Portland – A golden IPA made with 5 different hops, intense grapefruit and dank notes with a crisp finish.
2. Rouge Farms 7 Hop IPA 8% from Oregon – utilizes all 7 hops grown in the hopyard of Rouge Farms. This blend is then added to 3 varieties of Rouge Farms malt and brewed with free range Oregon costal waters.
As we were finishing off the tasting Alice arrived without any purchases. Fifteen minutes later Julie also arrived in a similar vein. It turns out that they had bought so much booty that they had to return to the hotel. The girls quickly ordered a cocktail and placed an order for lunch. The still thirsty boys were hooked on the IPA so an order for a half yard of Deschutes Inversion IPA was placed. We were still drinking that beastie long after devouring our lunch. As discriminating hop heads and at 6.8% this big, bold IPA’s intense multi-hop kick gets a subtle dose of restraint from select Munich and Caramel malts. As you can tell we think this is an amazing beer.
Back at the hotel the four of us combined our food resources and had a nice cheap dinner which was followed by a reasonably early night.
Monday, 23rd November – Big Fat Rain and Waikele Premium Outlet
The rain is still coming down but the girls are undaunted as they are booked on a Roberts Bus Shuttle ($US15 return) which is leaving Waikiki at 9:30am. We don’t expect them to return until after 6:00pm which means we have a free day. Around 10:30 and in between downpours we caught up with Russell and went for a stroll around Waikiki looking for a coffee shop that had a spare table with dry seats. After much searching we ended up down near the Long Yard and enjoyed a nice strong latte. With the rain still tumbling down we decided that it was time to have a salty dip in the briny waters of Waikiki. After all we couldn’t get any wetter. The water was warm but the area where we chose to swim was full of rocks of all sizes. It wasn’t too deep but you couldn’t see the bottom as the stormy weather had churned up the sand. We lasted for about fifteen minutes which also gave us the opportunity for a code yellow.
Russell had some business to catch up on so we left him to his own devices. We still had a couple of steaks in the refrigerator so a steak sandwich was the order of the day. A quick bus trip and the purchase of a new pair of runners filled in the afternoon. Russell had promised us a couple of beers so we headed up to his hotel. A large Hawaiian woman was on duty so we told her we were here to visit Mr. Russell in room 401. This was when our Basil Fawlty moment occurred. She then asked if we wanted a room. No, I want to visit Russell I replied. What is your room number she said. I don’t have a room, I’m only visiting…. This went backwards and forwards like an old tape recording. Eventually, she looked at the register and said Sue room 206. Seems like Sue was the magic word and Russell does not know his room number!
Anyhow we made it to the room and killed a couple of beers whilst looking out the window in anticipation of the girls return. Being impeccable husbands we decided to meet them at the drop off point to assist them in the carriage of the recently purchased chattels. After waiting for more than 45 minutes we gave up and adjourned to a bar across the road. We had no sooner sat down for a drink when they were spotted walking up the street clutching an array of bags which included Victoria Secret. The bus had apparently dropped them outside the store so they justifiably had spent the last 45 minutes there. We decided to try dinner some Udon Noodles for dinner and chose Marukame Udon Restaurant (Address: 2310 Kuhio Ave). There is always a queue outside which is testament to its popularity and value for money. The wait in line is relatively short as the diners move on once they have eaten. Guests order at the counter at this casual Japanese restaurant specializing in noodle soup. It is not a place for chatting or sipping slowly on a glass of wine. I’m not a fan of noodles but the general opinion was that the food was excellent.
Back at Sue and Russell’s the girls displayed all of the bargains that they had purchased. Alice also did a little shimmy wearing her Victoria Secret outfit. No more to be said about that!
Tuesday, 24th November – Diamond Head
The weather has finally cleared up so after breakfast we jumped on the number 23 bus (number 2 also available) and headed up to Diamond Head ($1 admission) to hike around the crater and the top of the rim. We arrived at the drop off point about 15 minutes later. It was only mid-morning but given the good weather it seemed that every tourist was out to hike the trail. There’s just something empowering about walking up the side of an extinct volcano. More than 3,500 feet in diameter with a 760-foot summit, Diamond Head in Waikiki is perhaps the world’s most recognized volcanic crater. It is a lasting remnant of a volcanic explosion that occurred about 500,000 years ago. Ancient Hawaiians called it Laeahi, which translates to “brow of the tuna.” The name “Diamond Head” can be traced to the 1800s, when British sailors mistakenly thought there were diamonds lodged in the crater’s soil. The “diamonds” turned out to be calcite crystals embedded in the lava rock.
The 0.7-mile hike up Diamond Head is considered a moderate climb and takes about an hour to reach the summit, and half that time for the return. The trail climbs the inside slope of Diamond Head for about 0.6 miles. It’s a switchback trail with the mountain on one side and a railing on the other. After a lookout point that doubles as a rest stop, the trail takes a steep upward ascent through a series of stairs and tunnels. The last set of stairs is a 99-step climb—just take it slow and steady—that eventually leads to a World War II bunker. From there, the stairs reach an end and you step up to some of the finest panoramic views on Oahu. We took a short walk around and savored the moment. The day was clear and in the distance we could see the island of Molokai. Standing atop the lookout, viewing Oahu’s entire leeward side, feeling the trade winds and hearing waves crashing far below, you can’t help but feel humbled to be on this glorious island.
Tip: Go in the early morning or late afternoon if you want to avoid potential crowds.
After a light lunch Alice and I thought it was time to have a swim in the warm waters and gentle swell of Waikiki. My thoughts are that the stretch of sand adjacent to the statue of Duke Kahanamoku is the most ideal spot for a swim. The Duke was an Olympic swimming gold medalist and is widely credited with popularizing the ancient Hawaiian sport of surfing. A patch of sand to place our towels was difficult to find but we finally secured a patch a few rows back from the surf. This is the place to come if you want to learn to surf as it is a gentle wave that starts to form right out the back and has enough power to get you moving. You can swim out for over 100 metres and still touch the bottom. The most dangerous place here is right on the beach as the waves break on the shoreline. After a relaxing swim it was back to the hotel for a mini-break before heading out for dinner.
Julie chose tonight’s destination the Waikiki Sky Lounge after reading a review in the good old Sunday Mail. The lounge is on the 19th floor of Sky Waikiki and as we found out from the surly hostess it is best to have a reservation even if you arrive at 5:00pm. On the deck, you have an almost-360 degree view of Waikiki, including views of the ocean, Diamond Head, Waikiki Beach and the famous, pink Royal Hawaiian hotel. Buildings block some of the dazzling sunset, but you’ll forget about that once the sun goes down and the city’s twinkling lights turn on around you while breathing the fresh air. Surprisingly, that given the view the drinks were reasonably priced. The staff were quite good but on principle we did not leave a tip due to the attitude of the hostess.
Wednesday, 25th November – Pearl Harbor and Swap Meet
We were up bright and early this morning as we are planning to catch public transport out to Pearl Harbor. Alice isn’t 100 percent today so has decided to recuperate at the hotel. Good weather again today so Tony, Julie and I boarded bus 42 (also No.20) at 7:00am and arrived at Pearl right on 8:00am. This coincided with the playing of the National Anthem and out of respect we joined the Americans who were paying homage to the flag. I lined up for tickets and managed to get us on the 8:45am tour. Entry to Pearl Harbor and the 75 minute tour of the USS Arizona Memorial are free. This is the number one visitor destination for Hawaii and given the history it is easy to understand why. The visitor centre features museums, theatres, wayside exhibits and panoramic views of Pearl Harbor. As you travel by launch to the memorial the battleship USS Missouri can be seen in the background. The Arizona Memorial is built over the remains of the sunken battleship USS Arizona, the final resting place for many of the 1,177 crewmen killed on December 7, 1941 when their ship was bombed by Japanese Naval Forces. The tour is a very poignant and emotional reminder of what was a horrific time in our history. As a reminder Darwin was bombed by the Japanese on 19th February, 1942. You could easily spend the whole day here as there is plenty to see with the Missouri and Blowfin exhibits.
After completing our tour of Pearl Harbor we hopped on Shanks’ Pony for ten minutes and dropped in at the Aloha Stadium for the Wednesday Swap meet. We could have caught the bus but it was only two stops up the road. Since 1979, the Aloha Stadium Swap Meet has become Hawaii's premier outdoor market, featuring over 400 vendors, crafters, artists from all over the world, a true melting pot of Aloha.
Thursday, 26th November – Thanksgiving and Circle Tour
When we awoke this morning I couldn’t believe the weather. Yes it is promising to rain on Thanksgiving Day and ruin our day out to the North Shore. After picking up our Chrysler 300 series from Dollar Rentals (If renting a car in Hawaii I would recommend using https://www.hawaiidiscount.com/rental-cars.htm) we picked up the girls and headed in an anticlockwise direction from Waikiki.
The rain is currently holding off so we were able to get a nice view of the Diamond Head Lighthouse from the roadside lookout below the crater. There were a few police cars about but they were doing point duty for what appeared to be a half marathon. Judging by the caliber of runners a few of them should have stayed at home.
With Julie providing the navigation we found our way onto route 72, the Kalaniannaole Highway, try saying that with a mouthful of dry weet-bix. Along the way we stopped off at
· Koko Crater View Point
· Hanauma Bay which is supposed to be a great snorkeling area. There is a $1 charge for vehicles and $7.50 per person. We didn’t avail ourselves of this option as the weather was beginning to get dirty.
· Molokai Lookout
· Halona Blowhole – don’t know if you need big waves to set it off but I’ve seen more smoke from one of my mate Gene’s cigarettes
At the end of route 72 we hung a right onto route 61, Kailua Road so we could have a look at what is supposed to be the best beach on the island. A couple of wrong turns later I thought that I was in Forest Lake with all the cul-de-sacs and roads that turned into each other. Just to top it off there was even a man-made lake. We never did find the beach but Julie did manage to get us onto the H3 and then route 83, the Kamehameha Highway. Alice and Tony were starting to get a bit growly as they both needed some caffeine. We decided to stop for a brew at Kahana but alas like the Polynesian Cultural Centre and the Shrimp Shack it was closed for Thanksgiving. By this time the rain was coming down in torrents and driving was becoming more difficult.
Eventually we spotted a lone roadside diner that had a flashing neon sign in red declaring that it was open. Keneke’s Grill at Punaluu was a godsend in more ways than one. The food was reasonably priced and delicious but what tickled our fantasy was that the entire wall of the dining area was covered in quotes from various bible scriptures. After lunch and a few kilometres up the road we came upon the first of quite a few Shrimp Trucks which are an institution on the North Shore. I couldn’t come all this way without trying some of these tasty crustaceans. The lucky recipient of our $US13 was Fumi’s who cooked up some rice and about 10 prawns in butter and garlic. I reckon we all had great garlic breath after that feed. Tony and Julie also opted for the Dole Pineapple whip ice-cream. I was doing a little bus spotting so on a whim I followed the number 52 into the Turtle Bay Resort. The golf course was immaculate and had the requisite 5 star hotel attached. There were also condominiums butting up against the fairways. I think you would need a pretty penny to stay here.
Finally we reached Hawaii’s big wave area and our first stop was Sunset Beach which appeared to be hosting a leg of the world surfing tour. Even with the rain pelting down finding a parking space was difficult. Alice and Julie braved the wind and the rain and reported that a few brave souls were out testing their mettle against the big surf. Just up the road was the famous Banzai Pipeline and I had a look at the surf which was big but not huge. The lifeguards were on duty but they only had to keep their eyes on a couple of guys.
Further up the road was the turnoff for Waimea Valley and waterfall which we decided to bypass in favour of Waiimea Bay. Surprisingly, there was very little swell and not a soul swimming. At every beach park there were Hawaiian families doing their best to celebrate Thanksgiving. Most of them were stuck under gazebos but one hardy bunch was having a game of volley ball or should I say mud ball. By this time we had just about had enough but we soldiered on to the historic hamlet of Haleiwa. Just about everything was shut so we headed off to route 99, Kamehameha Highway in search of the Dole Pineapple Plantation. The place was jam packed with Japanese tourists who could not get enough of the food and the pineapple inspired souvenirs. My impression was that it was like the old big pineapple at Nambour but with bigger crowds. On a fine day you could have boarded the pineapple express for a tour of the plantation or tried your luck navigating your way through the world’s biggest maze.
Tony and I consider ourselves sensitive new aged guys who are tuned in on the same wavelength as our wives. With this in mind we pointed the Chrysler 300 in the direction of the Waikele Premium Outlet for a last assault on the specials. We arrived just after 4:00pm which was perfect timing as stores like Old Navy were just opening their doors for “Black Friday” specials. The majority of stores will be opening all night and I mean all night and will finally close at midnight on Friday. The girls did manage to acquire a couple of more items. Next sensitive stop was at the Ross Dress For Less located near the Ala Moana Shopping Centre. The girls decided that they would get in early on all the specials so Tony and I left them to their own devices and headed back to Waikiki to return the hire car. It was still raining so we caught the free Dollar shuttle back to the Food Pantry for some supplies. We entertained ourselves with a couple of beers whilst watching all the action unfolding on the street below us. A little after 9:00pm we saw the girls walking down the street carrying more goods than a Sherpa on the Annapurna trail. After showing off their booty it was time for bed and some well earned shut-eye.
Friday, 27th November – Black Friday, Waikiki
This is our penultimate day in Hawaii so we decided to do virtually nothing. Nothing naturally included another trip to Ross, Macy’s and Victoria Secret. I actually came away with the best purchase of the entire trip. At the Ross store I spent $3.99 and came away with a Danos Direct type product. You have probably guessed that it was the “Potato Express” which is used for cooking potatoes in the microwave oven. Yep 4 potatoes can be cooked to perfection in 6 to 8 minutes. www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QTQD354JJc
Tony and I returned to the hotel and the girls said that they would be back soon after. We decided that a swim down near the statue of the Duke would be beneficial to our health. Unlike yesterday the sun was out and so were the sand worshippers. We managed to find a place for our personal gear and spent a good hour just swimming and floating about. To finish off we took a walk around the streets and discovered that you could hire Paddle Boards and Surf Boards at a cheaper rate from the stores about a block back from the beach. Carrying a board an extra block is not a great imposition if it saves you a few dollars whilst giving you a little extra exercise. Back at the hotel and still no sign of the girls. They eventually returned and once again were fully laden. Julie has also made a good decision to purchase a large suitcase from our old friend Ross to ensure that she can transport all our goodies home.
Our last meal tonight is a roast dinner cooked by Julie in her apartment. Tony and I assisted by purchasing some champagne and beers to celebrate what has been a fabulous trip. The meal was delicious and the company even better.
Saturday, 28th November – Homeward Bound
This morning Alice and I decided to treat ourselves to the breakfast special at the Seaside Bar and Grill. As much as I enjoyed the breakfast I find that it is near nigh impossible to consume two huge pancakes on top of bacon and two eggs done easy over. After breakfast we had a last little walk around the shopping precinct before heading back to the hotel to finish packing.
We have pre-booked our Star Taxi for 11:15am for our trip to the Honolulu International Airport. http://www.startaxihawaii.com/ At a cost of $US30 for the four of us it is good value. Our flight is not until 2:35pm so we should have plenty of time to pass through the rigors of Airport Security. The driver was a little early so we ended up at the airport about 3 hours before departure. The check-in line for Hawaiian Airlines looked horrendous but fortunately for us that was for domestic travel. Tip- Allow at least two hours for check-in and security if you are flying domestic out of Honolulu. The international check-in was much more civilized and I estimate that it took only about 25 minutes to complete that process as well as security. The airport seems to be poorly laid out as we had to walk quite a distance to another terminal building to find our departure gate. With a little time to kill before boarding we headed our separate ways for a spot of lunch.
The plane started boarding just before 2:00pm and wasn’t quite full. We have once again been allocated our exit aisle seat which will make it a more relaxing flight home. We really recommend spending the extra $110 to secure one of these berths. Our take-off was spot on time for our 10 hour flight home to Australia. Somewhere before the international dateline Tony and I caught up at the rear of the aircraft for a couple of wines and idle chit-chat. The steward did not need any cajoling to top up our plastic wineglass. Actually, the service from the on-board staff is excellent. A spot of turbulence sent us scurrying back to our seats and another movie.
Sunday, 29th November – Home
One minute it is Saturday and the next it is Sunday and so it goes when you cross the dateline towards Australia. The rest of the flight was uneventful as we cruised towards Brisbane. Touchdown and that feeling of being home starts to overwhelm you. Apart from sitting on the tarmac for 45 minutes after landing it was a good trip. No hassles with immigration apart from Julie and Alice being unrecognizable on their E-Passports (Tip – don’t forget to remove your glasses from your face or top of your head if they are not on the passport photo). No problems either with the baggage or customs. The other nice thing about traveling is when you are met at the airport by family or friends. On this occasion it was Jemma who had volunteered to pick-up the ‘rents’ and it brought a tear to the old boy’s eyes as she gave each of us a welcome home hug.
Sunday, November 22, 2015
Hawaii Part 2
Friday, 13th November – Molokai
Early this morning we set off for the island of Molokai which involved another crossing of a major channel. Time wise it was a lot shorter than the last crossing and certainly not as rough. By breakfast time we had docked at the harbor and after a hearty meal boarded some vehicles for a full day trip on land. Our female driver who was of Hawaiian descent soon had us on our way. She was enthusiastic with her commentary as she proudly pointed out every landmark including the swimming pool where she teaches the younger children to swim.
I think we were heading east from the capital of Kaunakakai to the roads end at Halawa Bay. The houses are few and far between and most are positioned in locations that offer uninterrupted views of the ocean. The road petered out to a narrow one lane road but this did not deter our driver who continued to drive with one hand and swivel her head as she pointed out various landmarks. She nearly lost it a couple of times and would have had trouble stopping because of the pieces of fruit and water bottle rolling on the floor near the brake pedal. I nearly forgot to mention that it was also raining which made conditions slippery. We were all glad when she stopped for a photo opportunity which allowed a couple of other drivers to get in front of her. Nevertheless this is a magnificent stretch of coastline that deserves a visit.
They say that Molokai is the only island that still gives you a sense of what the Aloha spirit was like in Hawaii long ago. No stop lights, no high-rises just a welcome slower pace. This was reinforced when we met with some locals for a “talk story” and a chance to experience their land and traditions. They explained that ‘aloha’ actually means love and not hello or goodbye. Other words such as luau have also been bastardized. After a traditional greeting of touching heads and noses we passed by the pig pen and taro patches before hiking to a towering waterfall in Halawa’s Cathedral valley.
After fording a fast flowing stream we hit the narrow winding trail. It has been raining and the track is quite muddy. It wasn’t long before our shoes were covered in sticky black mud that stuck like glue and made the shoes twice as heavy. We did not get very wet as the canopy of the rain forest kept the rain off us. After about an hour of walking we reached our destination where we could sit on the rocks beneath the waterfall.
Tony, Sue, Alice and I were soon into our togs and enjoyed a swim in the large rock pool at the base of the falls. The water was a good depth, cool and refreshing. I could have stayed in longer but didn’t want to miss out on the lunch that the crew had lugged up for our benefit. On our way back down the track appeared to be even muddier. A few of the passengers took nasty falls and ended up with abrasions but fortunately no sprains. When we reached the stream I took the time to give my sandals a good wash but even then I still could not remove all of the mud. The drive back to the boat was a little more sedate which Tony, Russell, Julie and Sue managed to grab a little shut eye. There is nothing like watching a few oldies with swaying heads and drooling mouths.
There is no dinner on board tonight as we are heading up into the hills to the Molokai Museum for a paina (correct word for luau). It was a great evening as we were entertained by a young hula dancer who was accompanied by two musicians who also put on a Hawaiian style jam session. We ate a lot of very delicious home style dishes that were complemented by a couple of great wines. Back at the ship we had a few more drinks prior to packing our bags for disembarkation in the morning.
Saturday, 14th November – Kepuhi Bay
After a hearty breakfast we were transferred to the Molokai Hotel where we will hang around until we are transferred to the airport. No we are not flying out but it made more sense to pick-up our hire car from here as we are staying on Molokai for another three nights.
Prior to heading for the airport we took a shuttle to the small downtown area so we could wander around the Saturday outdoor market. Kaunakakai is virtually unchanged since the early 1900’s and a leisurely walk down Ala Malama Street afforded us an eclectic collection of charming shops, food markets and empty restaurants. Alice, Sue, Russell and I dropped into the bookstore and Terri the owner took time out to explain the ‘things to do’ in Molokai. She is enthusiastic about her home and was happy to share her favourite locations with us. The market was small but had some good quality organic fruit and vegetables for sale as well as some freshly baked pumpkin bread. After a couple of purchases it was back to the hotel so we could take the midday shuttle to the airport.
After picking up our rental car at the airport we headed out to Mauna Loa Highway and traveled west for about 15 miles to Kepuhi Bay. We have rented a two bedroom apartment through Air B&B for the next three nights. Unfortunately our room was not ready but we were able to leave our bags which gave us some time to pick up some supplies. Sue and Russell are not staying with us but that is another story. We said farewell to them at the airport as they are taking a taxi to the Blue Goose Bed and Breakfast which is located at Maunaloa.
We traveled back past the airport and headed up to the village of Hoolehua. The girls were getting a little hungry and stopped at the Cookhouse for a burger and some fries. The food was good and the girls were happy. With a full stomach we crossed the street to the Kulaapuu Market which is a historic plantation store. This is the spot to stock up on supplies such as beer, steak, local foods like poke and household goods. We attempted to track down Sue and Russell but Maunaloa is like a ghost town as there are quite a few empty houses. Tony thought that their host may have been Anthony Perkins.
Our apartment was ready when we arrived back so we wasted no time in settling in. The balcony is the spot to be as it has an amazing view of the water which is only 100 metres away. The sound of the wind and waves crashing on the rocks coupled with a red sunset was a great finish to a long day.
Sunday, 15th November – A Day of Doing Nothing
We managed to track down Sue and Russell so I picked them up for a day out at our apartment. The surf looked appealing so we all headed down to our local beach for some sunbathing. Some local youngsters had their boogie boards out and were catching some great waves from the near perfect swell. Russell looked resplendent in his speedos but his body surfing technique could have been better. The amount of time he spent plowing the sand did a great job of exfoliating his skin and nether regions. He will probably be still getting sand out of his speedos when he is back in Australia.
The girls prepared a great salad and that went well with the sirloin steak that we cooked up on the barbeque. With the going down of the sun it was time to return Russell and Sue to Bates’ Hotel. I only hope that they will be there in the morning! When I returned there was time for a few beers on the balcony with the giant moths which have been attracted by the lounge light. It is a pity as we need to close the doors so that they are kept at bay.
Monday, 16th November – Kalaupapa Mule Tour
We are up nice and early today as we have an 8:00am appointment with a mule. The back of the car is a little cramped as Sue and Russell have survived the night and the six of us are off on a butt testing descent of the Kalaupapa Trail. The mule skinners selected our mounts for us and I suspect it was based on personality rather than the size of the rider. Alice’s mount was named Poele and I was given a spotted Zebra named Stripes who for some reason was the leader of the pack. The trail descends a 1780 foot cliff to the Kalaupapa settlement. It is approximately 3.2 miles in length and has 26 switchbacks. On the descent we had to lean back in the saddle to avoid falling off.
After our jarring descent we all needed a hand to lift our legs out of the saddle. I suppose that is one of the joys of growing old and living dangerously, gold. The second part of our rare adventure on a rusty yellow school bus was about to begin. This isolated plain sitting below some of the world’s highest sea cliffs on the Makanalua Peninsula is a place of astonishing beauty with a harsh history. Because of its isolation and its natural barriers of sea and cliffs the Kingdom of Hawaii, in 1866 chose this place to ship leprosy victims to. They spent the remainder of their days here as prisoners of the land. Today only seven patients remain on the peninsula and they are free to travel as they please. When the last patient dies or leaves then the land will be turned over to the National Park Service.
Our tour included a visit with two of the patients who run a bookstore and café/bar. Our guide was very passionate about the injustice that the leprosy patients suffered in the early years and the work of Mother Marianne who spent many years on Molokai at the turn of the last century. Her gravestone is well looked after. For a small area there are quite a few churches and as the father was in residence we had a pleasant tour of the Catholic Church. Lunch was taken in a pleasant glade overlooking the sea cliffs in the area of Kalawao. This is where the boys were looked after in the early years. This is also the location of St. Philomena Church and the monument to Saint Damien. He spent seven years ministering to the victims of leprosy, building churches and water reservoirs. In the end the disease claimed his life and he became known as the Martyr of Molokai.
By 2:00pm the time had come to hop on our long eared mounts and face the obstacles, precipices and hazards of this treacherous ascent and endure the vicissitudes of the narrow passage between destination and rim. All of that said it was much easier going up than down. Stripes led the way again and would have been first home if not for the withering burst of speed by Julie’s trusty steed. At $US195 per person it is an expensive day trip however we all agreed that it was a great adventure and that being a Mule Skinner for a day can be removed from the bucket list. We still had some time left for some sightseeing so we headed off to the Kalaupapa Lookout which gives you a panoramic view of the settlement. There are also a number of plaques which tell the story of the Leper Colony. There is also another interesting monolith in this area which is known as Phallic Rock. On close inspection you do not need any imagination on how the name was derived.
Back at our apartment we had a couple of drinks with Sue and Russell before taking them to the airport for a night flight to Honolulu. It was lucky that I was driving at a moderate speed because on the way back there were three deer on the road. That encounter was a nice way to finish what was a big day out.
Tuesday, 17th November – Oahu
Check-out time today is 10:00am so we had a leisurely morning and one last walk along our beach. Our flight to Oahu is not until 1:45pm so to kill time we took a drive to Coffees of Hawaii. Every Tuesday at 10:00am the local musicians who are mostly Ukulele players get together for a music jam.
When we arrived there were about twenty musicians and a large crowd packed onto the reasonably large deck of the coffee shop. The music was certainly entertaining and had a real Hawaiian sound. A couple of our entertainers also doubled as hula dancers. We even saw Ted and his wife Joy who were from British Columbia and traveled on the Un-cruise with us. This was a great way to finish our stay on Molokai. In hindsight it would have been good to spend at least five days here and we would certainly recommend our air B&B accommodation. You can also travel by ferry from Molokai to Maui for a different twist on your holidays.
Our flight on Ohana Air departed on time and took about 25 minutes and was as uneventful as they come. It went up, leveled out for enough time for me to go to the toilet and then came down again! After picking up our luggage we quickly found our ride with Speedi-Shuttle and were soon on our way to the Marriott Beach Club at Ko Olina.
Julie has secured us a luxury stay for the next three nights. The adjoining rooms and the facilities is a big step up from the digs that we usually stay in. The resort has all sorts of activities, a good beach, swimming pools, hot spas, gym and steam room just to mention a few. After settling in we jumped on the free shuttle bus driven by a very happy Earle (I’d be happy to if I got as many tips as him) and headed off to the resort shopping centre. Tony and I recognized the signs that the girls were getting a tad hungry so we immediately headed into a Mexican restaurant where we had an early dinner or was it a late lunch. The food was good, filling and reasonably priced. A quick trip into the ABC market and we had enough beer and food supplies to last us for a couple of days.
Wednesday, 18th November – Malingering at the Marriott
After a leisurely breakfast Tony and I hit the gym to burn off some of the additional calories that we have been piling on. I don’t know if it is all the food or the quantity of beer that we have been quaffing down that has caused our bulging mid-riffs. Anyhow we had a good work out while the girls put in a big session at the aqua zumba class.
We spent the afternoon just lazing around the pool and the hot tubs. Tony felt the need for more exercise so we went for an ocean swim at the front of the resort. He estimated that we must have swum the same distance as the Hawaiian Ironmen which was at least 300 metres. After all that exhausting exercise I decided to take some steam at the health club. After all that heat I was extremely relaxed and felt rejuvenated. Tony had the beers chillin’ and we relaxed while we waited for the girls to return from their sunset walks. If we had more sense we would have wooed them with a chilled wine on the beach as the sun sunk below the horizon. Maybe tomorrow!
Early this morning we set off for the island of Molokai which involved another crossing of a major channel. Time wise it was a lot shorter than the last crossing and certainly not as rough. By breakfast time we had docked at the harbor and after a hearty meal boarded some vehicles for a full day trip on land. Our female driver who was of Hawaiian descent soon had us on our way. She was enthusiastic with her commentary as she proudly pointed out every landmark including the swimming pool where she teaches the younger children to swim.
I think we were heading east from the capital of Kaunakakai to the roads end at Halawa Bay. The houses are few and far between and most are positioned in locations that offer uninterrupted views of the ocean. The road petered out to a narrow one lane road but this did not deter our driver who continued to drive with one hand and swivel her head as she pointed out various landmarks. She nearly lost it a couple of times and would have had trouble stopping because of the pieces of fruit and water bottle rolling on the floor near the brake pedal. I nearly forgot to mention that it was also raining which made conditions slippery. We were all glad when she stopped for a photo opportunity which allowed a couple of other drivers to get in front of her. Nevertheless this is a magnificent stretch of coastline that deserves a visit.
They say that Molokai is the only island that still gives you a sense of what the Aloha spirit was like in Hawaii long ago. No stop lights, no high-rises just a welcome slower pace. This was reinforced when we met with some locals for a “talk story” and a chance to experience their land and traditions. They explained that ‘aloha’ actually means love and not hello or goodbye. Other words such as luau have also been bastardized. After a traditional greeting of touching heads and noses we passed by the pig pen and taro patches before hiking to a towering waterfall in Halawa’s Cathedral valley.
After fording a fast flowing stream we hit the narrow winding trail. It has been raining and the track is quite muddy. It wasn’t long before our shoes were covered in sticky black mud that stuck like glue and made the shoes twice as heavy. We did not get very wet as the canopy of the rain forest kept the rain off us. After about an hour of walking we reached our destination where we could sit on the rocks beneath the waterfall.
Tony, Sue, Alice and I were soon into our togs and enjoyed a swim in the large rock pool at the base of the falls. The water was a good depth, cool and refreshing. I could have stayed in longer but didn’t want to miss out on the lunch that the crew had lugged up for our benefit. On our way back down the track appeared to be even muddier. A few of the passengers took nasty falls and ended up with abrasions but fortunately no sprains. When we reached the stream I took the time to give my sandals a good wash but even then I still could not remove all of the mud. The drive back to the boat was a little more sedate which Tony, Russell, Julie and Sue managed to grab a little shut eye. There is nothing like watching a few oldies with swaying heads and drooling mouths.
There is no dinner on board tonight as we are heading up into the hills to the Molokai Museum for a paina (correct word for luau). It was a great evening as we were entertained by a young hula dancer who was accompanied by two musicians who also put on a Hawaiian style jam session. We ate a lot of very delicious home style dishes that were complemented by a couple of great wines. Back at the ship we had a few more drinks prior to packing our bags for disembarkation in the morning.
Saturday, 14th November – Kepuhi Bay
After a hearty breakfast we were transferred to the Molokai Hotel where we will hang around until we are transferred to the airport. No we are not flying out but it made more sense to pick-up our hire car from here as we are staying on Molokai for another three nights.
Prior to heading for the airport we took a shuttle to the small downtown area so we could wander around the Saturday outdoor market. Kaunakakai is virtually unchanged since the early 1900’s and a leisurely walk down Ala Malama Street afforded us an eclectic collection of charming shops, food markets and empty restaurants. Alice, Sue, Russell and I dropped into the bookstore and Terri the owner took time out to explain the ‘things to do’ in Molokai. She is enthusiastic about her home and was happy to share her favourite locations with us. The market was small but had some good quality organic fruit and vegetables for sale as well as some freshly baked pumpkin bread. After a couple of purchases it was back to the hotel so we could take the midday shuttle to the airport.
After picking up our rental car at the airport we headed out to Mauna Loa Highway and traveled west for about 15 miles to Kepuhi Bay. We have rented a two bedroom apartment through Air B&B for the next three nights. Unfortunately our room was not ready but we were able to leave our bags which gave us some time to pick up some supplies. Sue and Russell are not staying with us but that is another story. We said farewell to them at the airport as they are taking a taxi to the Blue Goose Bed and Breakfast which is located at Maunaloa.
We traveled back past the airport and headed up to the village of Hoolehua. The girls were getting a little hungry and stopped at the Cookhouse for a burger and some fries. The food was good and the girls were happy. With a full stomach we crossed the street to the Kulaapuu Market which is a historic plantation store. This is the spot to stock up on supplies such as beer, steak, local foods like poke and household goods. We attempted to track down Sue and Russell but Maunaloa is like a ghost town as there are quite a few empty houses. Tony thought that their host may have been Anthony Perkins.
Our apartment was ready when we arrived back so we wasted no time in settling in. The balcony is the spot to be as it has an amazing view of the water which is only 100 metres away. The sound of the wind and waves crashing on the rocks coupled with a red sunset was a great finish to a long day.
Sunday, 15th November – A Day of Doing Nothing
We managed to track down Sue and Russell so I picked them up for a day out at our apartment. The surf looked appealing so we all headed down to our local beach for some sunbathing. Some local youngsters had their boogie boards out and were catching some great waves from the near perfect swell. Russell looked resplendent in his speedos but his body surfing technique could have been better. The amount of time he spent plowing the sand did a great job of exfoliating his skin and nether regions. He will probably be still getting sand out of his speedos when he is back in Australia.
The girls prepared a great salad and that went well with the sirloin steak that we cooked up on the barbeque. With the going down of the sun it was time to return Russell and Sue to Bates’ Hotel. I only hope that they will be there in the morning! When I returned there was time for a few beers on the balcony with the giant moths which have been attracted by the lounge light. It is a pity as we need to close the doors so that they are kept at bay.
Monday, 16th November – Kalaupapa Mule Tour
We are up nice and early today as we have an 8:00am appointment with a mule. The back of the car is a little cramped as Sue and Russell have survived the night and the six of us are off on a butt testing descent of the Kalaupapa Trail. The mule skinners selected our mounts for us and I suspect it was based on personality rather than the size of the rider. Alice’s mount was named Poele and I was given a spotted Zebra named Stripes who for some reason was the leader of the pack. The trail descends a 1780 foot cliff to the Kalaupapa settlement. It is approximately 3.2 miles in length and has 26 switchbacks. On the descent we had to lean back in the saddle to avoid falling off.
After our jarring descent we all needed a hand to lift our legs out of the saddle. I suppose that is one of the joys of growing old and living dangerously, gold. The second part of our rare adventure on a rusty yellow school bus was about to begin. This isolated plain sitting below some of the world’s highest sea cliffs on the Makanalua Peninsula is a place of astonishing beauty with a harsh history. Because of its isolation and its natural barriers of sea and cliffs the Kingdom of Hawaii, in 1866 chose this place to ship leprosy victims to. They spent the remainder of their days here as prisoners of the land. Today only seven patients remain on the peninsula and they are free to travel as they please. When the last patient dies or leaves then the land will be turned over to the National Park Service.
Our tour included a visit with two of the patients who run a bookstore and café/bar. Our guide was very passionate about the injustice that the leprosy patients suffered in the early years and the work of Mother Marianne who spent many years on Molokai at the turn of the last century. Her gravestone is well looked after. For a small area there are quite a few churches and as the father was in residence we had a pleasant tour of the Catholic Church. Lunch was taken in a pleasant glade overlooking the sea cliffs in the area of Kalawao. This is where the boys were looked after in the early years. This is also the location of St. Philomena Church and the monument to Saint Damien. He spent seven years ministering to the victims of leprosy, building churches and water reservoirs. In the end the disease claimed his life and he became known as the Martyr of Molokai.
By 2:00pm the time had come to hop on our long eared mounts and face the obstacles, precipices and hazards of this treacherous ascent and endure the vicissitudes of the narrow passage between destination and rim. All of that said it was much easier going up than down. Stripes led the way again and would have been first home if not for the withering burst of speed by Julie’s trusty steed. At $US195 per person it is an expensive day trip however we all agreed that it was a great adventure and that being a Mule Skinner for a day can be removed from the bucket list. We still had some time left for some sightseeing so we headed off to the Kalaupapa Lookout which gives you a panoramic view of the settlement. There are also a number of plaques which tell the story of the Leper Colony. There is also another interesting monolith in this area which is known as Phallic Rock. On close inspection you do not need any imagination on how the name was derived.
Back at our apartment we had a couple of drinks with Sue and Russell before taking them to the airport for a night flight to Honolulu. It was lucky that I was driving at a moderate speed because on the way back there were three deer on the road. That encounter was a nice way to finish what was a big day out.
Tuesday, 17th November – Oahu
Check-out time today is 10:00am so we had a leisurely morning and one last walk along our beach. Our flight to Oahu is not until 1:45pm so to kill time we took a drive to Coffees of Hawaii. Every Tuesday at 10:00am the local musicians who are mostly Ukulele players get together for a music jam.
When we arrived there were about twenty musicians and a large crowd packed onto the reasonably large deck of the coffee shop. The music was certainly entertaining and had a real Hawaiian sound. A couple of our entertainers also doubled as hula dancers. We even saw Ted and his wife Joy who were from British Columbia and traveled on the Un-cruise with us. This was a great way to finish our stay on Molokai. In hindsight it would have been good to spend at least five days here and we would certainly recommend our air B&B accommodation. You can also travel by ferry from Molokai to Maui for a different twist on your holidays.
Our flight on Ohana Air departed on time and took about 25 minutes and was as uneventful as they come. It went up, leveled out for enough time for me to go to the toilet and then came down again! After picking up our luggage we quickly found our ride with Speedi-Shuttle and were soon on our way to the Marriott Beach Club at Ko Olina.
Julie has secured us a luxury stay for the next three nights. The adjoining rooms and the facilities is a big step up from the digs that we usually stay in. The resort has all sorts of activities, a good beach, swimming pools, hot spas, gym and steam room just to mention a few. After settling in we jumped on the free shuttle bus driven by a very happy Earle (I’d be happy to if I got as many tips as him) and headed off to the resort shopping centre. Tony and I recognized the signs that the girls were getting a tad hungry so we immediately headed into a Mexican restaurant where we had an early dinner or was it a late lunch. The food was good, filling and reasonably priced. A quick trip into the ABC market and we had enough beer and food supplies to last us for a couple of days.
Wednesday, 18th November – Malingering at the Marriott
After a leisurely breakfast Tony and I hit the gym to burn off some of the additional calories that we have been piling on. I don’t know if it is all the food or the quantity of beer that we have been quaffing down that has caused our bulging mid-riffs. Anyhow we had a good work out while the girls put in a big session at the aqua zumba class.
We spent the afternoon just lazing around the pool and the hot tubs. Tony felt the need for more exercise so we went for an ocean swim at the front of the resort. He estimated that we must have swum the same distance as the Hawaiian Ironmen which was at least 300 metres. After all that exhausting exercise I decided to take some steam at the health club. After all that heat I was extremely relaxed and felt rejuvenated. Tony had the beers chillin’ and we relaxed while we waited for the girls to return from their sunset walks. If we had more sense we would have wooed them with a chilled wine on the beach as the sun sunk below the horizon. Maybe tomorrow!
ADVENTURES IN ECONOMY – HAWAII
Day 1, Thursday 5th November – Double Thursday
Melbourne Cup has come and gone for another year and it is now time to tote up our luggage for another adventure. Ever since I was a young boy I dreamed of surfing the big waves of Hawaii and that was reinforced by television shows such as Hawaii Five-O and Magnum P.I. Just like Tom Selleck’s shorts the big wave surfing has been consigned to the scrap heap but at least Alice and I will have the opportunity to witness the amazing landscape and just perhaps, a few big waves.
After a fine dinner on Thursday evening Jemma kindly delivered Tony, Julie, Alice and me to Brisbane International Airport. Everything went smoothly right up until the time we were scheduled to takeoff. We were sitting in our premium seats with the extra legroom when the airport was lashed by a huge electrical storm. The announcement came over the intercom that all flights were to be delayed. After one hour of sitting on the tarmac the call finally came that we would be taking off. Our flight was largely uneventful and I managed to grab about five hours of sleep which is a record for me. As we flew over Tonga our second Thursday arrived as we crossed the international date line.
Due to our delay in Brisbane we only had 1 hour and twenty minutes to make our connecting flight to the big island of Hawaii. I needed to pee so Alice waited patiently for me in the immigration line. By the time I emerged from the toilet Tony and Julie had cleared immigration but we still had twenty minutes to wait before we cleared. After picking up our luggage we had to hightail it to the domestic terminal which was located in another building. The way finding signage and lack of ground staff to direct us slowed us even further. We spotted Julie and Tony in the security line and they were able to give us directions on where to drop our luggage. In the short period that we were dropping off the bags the security closed the line and ordered us outside to join a queue which extended out onto the footpath. The security people are woeful as they only think about what is happening inside their own box. It is of no concern to them if your plane arrived late and you are going to miss your connecting flight.
Fortunately one of the staff who keeps the queue moving assisted us and pointed us to a security line that was opening up. Without her help we would have still been in the long and winding queue. My stress levels were up with all the rushing around and it was with a sigh of relief that we joined Julie and Tony at the boarding gate. I threw everything on a seat and tried to catch my breath. In a nanosecond things went from good to bad as I could not find my wallet which had all my cards and a large amount of cash in it. I started to panic and rushed back to security in case I had left it in the basket. No luck and I was really stressing out. When I returned to the others they could see that I had a shattered look on my face. I had resigned myself to the fact that I had lost it when a guy who had been sitting nearby asked if we had lost something. He then pointed to the offending black wallet that had camouflaged itself against the black cloth of the chair where I had originally dumped my bag. My stress levels dropped away instantaneously and I was so thankful for his honesty.
After touching down on what was a very brief 35 minute flight we picked up our hire car from Dollar. Even the five kilometer traffic jam that we encountered after leaving the airport could not dampen our spirits. We have booked a two bedroom flat that is attached to a house on the hillside of Kona. We are using Air BnB for the first time and can say that the room is as advertised. We have a great view from the Lanai (patio) and the sunset promises to be smashing. The only downside is that we have to walk through one of the bedrooms to access the toilet. Tony and I went for a drive to Walmart and picked up a few supplies for our evening meal. We managed to find some fruit, peanuts, chips and of course a few beers which we enjoyed on the lanai.
Friday, 6th November – Touring Around
A restful night’s sleep was had by all and after a hearty breakfast we hit the road. We did not have much of a plan but decided to head south towards the volcano. After a couple of minor detours the urge for a coffee overwhelmed us. There is no shortage of coffee here as the big island is famous for their Kona brew. We were in the Kealakekua Bay area which just happened to have a coffee plantation and a museum right on the highway. There was a great view from the back deck and it wasn’t long before we were knocking back free samples of the different brews. The girls bought a couple of postcards which helped to offset the dozen or so samples that Tony and I tried.
On the road again and we decided to turn off the highway and take a look at the Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park. There was an exorbitant entrance fee of $3 per person and $5 for the car so we parked outside and opted for a free walk down to the bay. This was a great area for snorkeling but alas we only had our bathers. Tony and I opted for a swim and enjoyed a relaxing twenty minutes in the crystal clear water. Back in the car we decided to keep heading south as there was a town shown on the map called Ocean View which we thought would be a great spot for lunch.
It did not look far on the map but it still took another hour to get there. The town was so small that before we knew it we were beyond the town limits. We had seen a sign for a Hawaiian Barbeque that promised to sate our rumbling stomachs. After executing an immaculate U turn on the highway we headed back for the promised lunch. The girls immediately vetoed lunch at this establishment as the smell of the deep fryers and the behemoth clientele indicated that our arteries would soon be clogged with saturated fats. In the end we opted for a foot long pastrami roll that we shared four ways. With our hunger under control it was good bye to Ocean View which by the way did not have an ocean view.
Heading north again we dropped in for a look at Hookena Beach Park which was about a two mile deviation. It had a camping area which was closed and a reasonable sandy beach for swimming. The one thing we have noticed is that the coastline is mostly rocky headlands dotted with a few sandy beaches. Our trip back was delayed as there appeared to be a major accident that had blocked the highway. A police officer gave us some directions to get around the blockage which involved a long detour on narrow roads. We followed the flow and were heading in the right direction until I failed to follow Julie’s advice and ended up at a bay whose name I can’t remember. At least we had a chance to stretch our legs and have a rest break.
For dinner tonight we have decided to head downtown and try out Kona’s Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. It is located right on the water but unfortunately we missed out on a waterfront table. After sharing a mixed entrée we all opted for different versions of the shrimp except for Tony who decided an American beef burger was the way to go. All this was washed down with wine, cocktails and liquid aloha courtesy of Kona Brewing. There was plenty of food but none of us could finish what we ordered. The Bubba Gump concept and theme is brilliant but just a little too much of the deep fry for my delicate taste buds. They do have T-shirts for sale and given my track record Alice thought I should purchase the “I Gotta Pee” shirt. The bill with a tip came in at $US194 which was a little more than we bargained for.
Saturday, 7th November – Zumba in Hawaii.
Alice has managed to track down a Zumba class in Kailua-Kona that kicks off at 9:30am. Whilst Julie and she are taking their exercise class Tony and I have been delegated to find an establishment that can print and scan documents. No problem for Ace Ventura and his sidekick as we found a place that met the prerequisite requirements. Tony and I retrieved Julie’s I-pad and then picked up a pair of sweaty girls from their class. They both gave it a thumbs up. By 11:30 we had completed our office duties and were ready to return the car to the airport.
After dropping the girls and the bags off at the Hawaiian airlines baggage carousel we returned the car. The shuttle bus was about to leave so we sprinted and just managed to catch it. Wouldn’t you know it, an Australian drawl said gidday and right before us were Sue and Russell our friends from Australia who will be joining us for our seven day Un-Cruise adventure. You may well ask what were we doing at an airport if we were about to embark on a cruise. The answer to that riddle was that we had to catch their shuttle bus with passengers who were just arriving. Our destination is Kawaihae Harbour which is about 30 miles north of the airport.
The Un-Cruise meet and greet was occurring at the Hapuna Beach Prince resort. After dropping off our bags we had a free run of the resort which has its own golf course and a beautiful beach right on Hapuna Bay. Unfortunately, we did not have access to our togs so we had to settle for a beer around the palm tree shrouded pool which overlooks one of the best beaches on the island. I did get some sand between the toes when I took a long walk along the beach. Around 5:00pm along with the other thirty two guests we boarded our vessel, the Safari Explorer for our week long sea odyssey. In hindsight it would have been ideal to spend about six days on the Big Island with the last two days at the aforementioned resort. Anyway after changing into some suitable attire (shorts and t-shirt) we joined the other guests for a delicious meal and a significant amount of alcohol which is included in our cruise price.
Sunday, 8th November – Pacific Manta Rays
This morning the boys are all a little seedy. I think it is a combination of last night’s beer consumption and the constant rolling of our small ship. We have anchored in Honomalino Bay just off Kailua-Kona where we will have an introductory snorkeling lesson. After collecting all of our equipment we were off in the skiff to a site that was surrounded by lava tubes and imposing basalt cliff face. Of course there was a Jack Nickalus designed golf course hugging the coast line. The snorkeling site was safe enough for everyone but on a scale of one to ten I would give it a three. It was just too deep to get a good feel for the marine life at this location.
Back on board we relaxed with lunch which was followed by an early dinner. We were anchored off shore from the Sheraton resort at Keauhou Bay for a night snorkel with giant Pacific Manta Rays. This activity is supposed to be ranked at number 3 in the top things to do before you die. Judging by the number of boats and lights in the water quite a few people were going to tick this one off their bucket list. We were all provided with wetsuits and around 6:30pm we jumped in the skiff for a short ride to where the Mantas hang out.
The setup for viewing the Mantas is quite ingenious as you are broken up into groups of six and then assigned to a paddle board. The boards have a hole in the centre which holds a powerful light that is used to attract the plankton. Once you have enough plankton the Mantas swoop in and enjoy a big Hawaiian feast. We kicked our paddle board over to an area where they had sighted a few and in no time we were witnessing these beautiful creatures gliding gracefully through the water only metres from us. Some displayed their maneuverability by executing perfect loop the loops. We spent about 45 minutes in the water and all agreed that it was an amazing experience. www.mantarayshawaii.com
Back on board we were treated to a late happy hour that extended way past my bedtime.
Monday, 9th November – Captain Cook
This morning we boarded some skiffs which are operated by Captain Zodiac for a fast trip to Kealakekua Bay for some of the islands best snorkeling. Coincidentally it just happens that this was the spot where Captain Cook was slain in 1779. It is suspected that the Hawaiians attached religious significance to the first stay of the Europeans on their islands. In Cook’s second visit, there was no question of this phenomenon. Kealakekua Bay was considered the sacred harbor of Lono, the fertility god of the Hawaiians, and at the time of Cook’s arrival the locals were engaged in a festival dedicated to Lono. Cook and his compatriots were welcomed as gods and for the next month exploited the Hawaiians’ good will. After one of the crewmen died, exposing the Europeans as mere mortals, relations became strained. On February 4, 1779, the British ships sailed from Kealakekua Bay, but rough seas damaged the foremast of the Resolution, and after only a week at sea the expedition was forced to return to Hawaii.
The Hawaiians greeted Cook and his men by hurling rocks; they then stole a small cutter vessel from the Discovery. Negotiations with King Kalaniopuu for the return of the cutter collapsed after a lesser Hawaiian chief was shot to death and a mob of Hawaiians descended on Cook’s party. The captain and his men fired on the angry Hawaiians, but they were soon overwhelmed, and only a few managed to escape to the safety of the Resolution. Captain Cook himself was killed by the mob. A few days later, the Englishmen retaliated by firing their cannons and muskets at the shore, killing some 30 Hawaiians. The Resolution and Discovery eventually returned to England.
The snorkeling here was excellent as the area is a marine park and the water visibility is a good 25 metres. There were plenty of reef fish and the hard corals were in great condition. Back on board the boys fired up the powerful twin outboards and headed over to the cliff face to show us some lava tubes and sacred Hawaiian sites. Being surrounded by water was having an impact on my rather weak bladder. I relayed my distress to the crew member who yelled out to the captain that they had a ‘code yellow’. A few minutes later I was allowed to jump over the side to relieve my stress. To my satisfaction I was joined by another passenger who seemed to be visibly relaxing.
After lunch it was time for some shore leave in downtown Kailua-Kona. We docked next door to the Sheraton Hotel which has a full sized wooden replica of an outrigger canoe. Our little Un-cruise treat was a half hour paddle in a six man fiberglass outrigger which was skippered by an enthusiastic young Hawaiian. The six of us were soon powering our way out into the harbor. We were so good that they could have used us on a trailer for Hawaii Five O or maybe not. Out in the harbor we did get up close and personal with some spinner dolphins and their young. Afterwards Alice and I trolled a few shops and sites such as Queen Hulihe’e Palace and the Moku’aikaua Church. We then caught the 4:00pm skiff back to the boat as we have booked a free 45 minute massage.
Looking good and feeling relaxed we settled in for cocktails and another sumptuous meal. The captain gave us a talk about our crossing tonight as it is expected to get a tad rough as we motor to Maui. In preparation for our assault on the channel Tony and I armed ourselves by consuming quite a few beers. We knew it was time for bed when the staff started to glad wrap the cupboards to stop them from flying open.
Tuesday, 10th November – West Maui
We knew when the ship was in the major channel as it started to heave left, right, up and down which meant sleep was nigh impossible. Alice had a nasty fall when she attempted to go to the toilet. She went flying backwards and crashed onto the floor. Her arm was severely bruised and she was lucky not to have hurt herself more. At breakfast most of the passengers looked like they had a hard night but that has not stopped us from signing up for some kayaking.
The six of us are on the second kayak trip so we have time for a swim and a paddle board off the back of the ship. I had a go at the stand up paddle board but my effort should have been called fall down boarding. No matter how hard I tried I kept falling off in spectacular fashion. In the end I gave up as I popped a rib cartilage when pulling myself onto the board. Russell fared no better than me but Sue was the queen for the day because she eventually mastered it.
Joe and Joyce who were on the first kayak trip returned on the skiff. They were soaking wet and had to be brought back as they just could not get back on board the kayak. Joe claimed they were torpedoed by a Japanese submarine. Our kayaking was less adventurous but we did manage to cover a bit of territory. Our guide Mitch did manage to show us a couple of sea turtles that were hunting over a small reef just off the shore. As we headed back to the ship and lunch I thought Sue and Russell had other activities planned. They set an outstanding pace as they powered away from the rest of us.
No need to guess what we did after lunch, yes it was another snorkel. Once again the water was crystal clear and teeming with underwater life and coral gardens. Back on board Tony has opted for an afternoon sleep and abstained from drinking alcohol. He is the only man I know who abstains from drinking when it is all inclusive. Power to his resilience!
Wednesday, 11th November – Turtles and Lahaina Town
The captain has altered our schedule for today as we need to get a plumber on board to unblock one of the toilets. This gave us the opportunity to snorkel at the old Mala Warf which was a fishing pier that was destroyed in 1992 by hurricane Iniki. The pylons of the pier and the platform lie scattered on the sea bed providing structure for the many species of fish. The pier has White Tip Reef Sharks, lots of schooling fish, Frogfish, Nudibranchs, and Turtles. Julie who is a non-swimmer and deathly afraid of sharks was certain she saw one. We were not so fortunate but we all spent a great deal of time swimming with at least ten turtles. There were even a couple of small juvenile turtles swimming near their parents. We all love a good collective noun but I cannot understand how they could come up with a “bale of turtles”. Thanks to the turtles we had an amazing snorkeling trip.
After lunch we had a chance to stretch our legs with a walk around Lahaina town. Our tour coordinator gave us a map that had a short walk which gave us a good feel for the history of the town. There was a craft market which was set up under the shade of a massive Banyan tree which nearly covered the entire block. Alice certainly enjoyed the market as it took me some time to extricate her from its spell. She did see a nice photograph and I promised to return later to consider its purchase.
We continued on our walk and saw a wedding in progress at the local Episcopal Church. Later on we learned that Sue had photo bombed the wedding and had her picture taken with the happy gay couple. Some of the other sites included the old courthouse, the old prison and churches of all denominations. There were also some old Hawaiian sites such as The Kings Taro Patch, Brick Palace (only a few left) of Kamehameha 1 and the Hauola Stone which was used by high ranking women to give birth on. It was getting a bit hot so we tucked into a local favourite to cool us down. It was a shaved ice which had ice-cream in the middle and flavoured with cordial. We did return to the market and I was impressed by the photograph that Alice had chosen. Quite a few dollars later we left the market with a photo that will hang gracefully at Currimundi.
Back on board I managed to convince Tony that he should enjoy a slight tipple at happy hour. We had a couple before enjoying a presentation by the local team leader who is responsible for freeing whales from nets and fishing lines.
Thursday, 12th November – Lanai the Pineapple Island
Early this morning our captain navigated his way to the nearby Island of Lanai. The wind was blowing at a good rate so the boarding of the skiffs was a little hairy. Only Sue, Russell and I are up for this morning’s snorkeling trip at the aptly named shark fin rock. Once again the water is crystal clear and as a result great for taking underwater pictures. Russell was trying out his camera managed to take quite a few good shots of the large school of Angel Fish and our attractive bartender, Erica.
After lunch we jumped into a couple of vans for a short drive to the small settlement town of Lanai City. At an elevation of 3000 feet the air is definitely cooler. Most of the native Hawaiians live here and there are a few craft shops as well as a small museum. We learned that by the 1870s, Walter Gibson had acquired most of the land on the island for ranching. Prior to this he had used it as a Mormon colony. In 1899, his daughter and son-in-law formed Maunalei Sugar Company, headquartered in Keomuku. The company failed in 1901. Many native Hawaiians continued to live along the less arid windward coast, supporting themselves by ranching and fishing.
In 1922, James Dole, the president of Hawaiian Pineapple Company, developed a large portion of it into the world's largest pineapple plantation.
With Hawaii Statehood in 1959, Lānaʻi became part of the County of Maui.
In 1985, Lānaʻi passed into the control of David H. Murdock, as a result of his purchase of Castle & Cooke, then owner of Dole.
In June 2012, Larry Ellison, then CEO of Oracle purchased Castle & Cooke's 98 percent share of the island. The state owns the remaining 2 percent. The sale price was not revealed, but the Maui News previously reported the asking price was between $500 million and $600 million. Ellison reportedly plans to invest as much as another $500 million to add to and improve the island's infrastructure and to create an environmentally friendly agricultural industry.
Our time here was limited as we were doing a short hike at Manele Bay where Larry Olsen has one of his Four Season Resorts. The beach here is quite beautiful and attracts day visitors from Maui who come across on the ferry. Our walk took us out to the point where we had a great view of Kaneapua Rock. There looks to be some sort of altar on top which was built ages ago. How they managed to get the rocks up there is anybody’s guess
Melbourne Cup has come and gone for another year and it is now time to tote up our luggage for another adventure. Ever since I was a young boy I dreamed of surfing the big waves of Hawaii and that was reinforced by television shows such as Hawaii Five-O and Magnum P.I. Just like Tom Selleck’s shorts the big wave surfing has been consigned to the scrap heap but at least Alice and I will have the opportunity to witness the amazing landscape and just perhaps, a few big waves.
After a fine dinner on Thursday evening Jemma kindly delivered Tony, Julie, Alice and me to Brisbane International Airport. Everything went smoothly right up until the time we were scheduled to takeoff. We were sitting in our premium seats with the extra legroom when the airport was lashed by a huge electrical storm. The announcement came over the intercom that all flights were to be delayed. After one hour of sitting on the tarmac the call finally came that we would be taking off. Our flight was largely uneventful and I managed to grab about five hours of sleep which is a record for me. As we flew over Tonga our second Thursday arrived as we crossed the international date line.
Due to our delay in Brisbane we only had 1 hour and twenty minutes to make our connecting flight to the big island of Hawaii. I needed to pee so Alice waited patiently for me in the immigration line. By the time I emerged from the toilet Tony and Julie had cleared immigration but we still had twenty minutes to wait before we cleared. After picking up our luggage we had to hightail it to the domestic terminal which was located in another building. The way finding signage and lack of ground staff to direct us slowed us even further. We spotted Julie and Tony in the security line and they were able to give us directions on where to drop our luggage. In the short period that we were dropping off the bags the security closed the line and ordered us outside to join a queue which extended out onto the footpath. The security people are woeful as they only think about what is happening inside their own box. It is of no concern to them if your plane arrived late and you are going to miss your connecting flight.
Fortunately one of the staff who keeps the queue moving assisted us and pointed us to a security line that was opening up. Without her help we would have still been in the long and winding queue. My stress levels were up with all the rushing around and it was with a sigh of relief that we joined Julie and Tony at the boarding gate. I threw everything on a seat and tried to catch my breath. In a nanosecond things went from good to bad as I could not find my wallet which had all my cards and a large amount of cash in it. I started to panic and rushed back to security in case I had left it in the basket. No luck and I was really stressing out. When I returned to the others they could see that I had a shattered look on my face. I had resigned myself to the fact that I had lost it when a guy who had been sitting nearby asked if we had lost something. He then pointed to the offending black wallet that had camouflaged itself against the black cloth of the chair where I had originally dumped my bag. My stress levels dropped away instantaneously and I was so thankful for his honesty.
After touching down on what was a very brief 35 minute flight we picked up our hire car from Dollar. Even the five kilometer traffic jam that we encountered after leaving the airport could not dampen our spirits. We have booked a two bedroom flat that is attached to a house on the hillside of Kona. We are using Air BnB for the first time and can say that the room is as advertised. We have a great view from the Lanai (patio) and the sunset promises to be smashing. The only downside is that we have to walk through one of the bedrooms to access the toilet. Tony and I went for a drive to Walmart and picked up a few supplies for our evening meal. We managed to find some fruit, peanuts, chips and of course a few beers which we enjoyed on the lanai.
Friday, 6th November – Touring Around
A restful night’s sleep was had by all and after a hearty breakfast we hit the road. We did not have much of a plan but decided to head south towards the volcano. After a couple of minor detours the urge for a coffee overwhelmed us. There is no shortage of coffee here as the big island is famous for their Kona brew. We were in the Kealakekua Bay area which just happened to have a coffee plantation and a museum right on the highway. There was a great view from the back deck and it wasn’t long before we were knocking back free samples of the different brews. The girls bought a couple of postcards which helped to offset the dozen or so samples that Tony and I tried.
On the road again and we decided to turn off the highway and take a look at the Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park. There was an exorbitant entrance fee of $3 per person and $5 for the car so we parked outside and opted for a free walk down to the bay. This was a great area for snorkeling but alas we only had our bathers. Tony and I opted for a swim and enjoyed a relaxing twenty minutes in the crystal clear water. Back in the car we decided to keep heading south as there was a town shown on the map called Ocean View which we thought would be a great spot for lunch.
It did not look far on the map but it still took another hour to get there. The town was so small that before we knew it we were beyond the town limits. We had seen a sign for a Hawaiian Barbeque that promised to sate our rumbling stomachs. After executing an immaculate U turn on the highway we headed back for the promised lunch. The girls immediately vetoed lunch at this establishment as the smell of the deep fryers and the behemoth clientele indicated that our arteries would soon be clogged with saturated fats. In the end we opted for a foot long pastrami roll that we shared four ways. With our hunger under control it was good bye to Ocean View which by the way did not have an ocean view.
Heading north again we dropped in for a look at Hookena Beach Park which was about a two mile deviation. It had a camping area which was closed and a reasonable sandy beach for swimming. The one thing we have noticed is that the coastline is mostly rocky headlands dotted with a few sandy beaches. Our trip back was delayed as there appeared to be a major accident that had blocked the highway. A police officer gave us some directions to get around the blockage which involved a long detour on narrow roads. We followed the flow and were heading in the right direction until I failed to follow Julie’s advice and ended up at a bay whose name I can’t remember. At least we had a chance to stretch our legs and have a rest break.
For dinner tonight we have decided to head downtown and try out Kona’s Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. It is located right on the water but unfortunately we missed out on a waterfront table. After sharing a mixed entrée we all opted for different versions of the shrimp except for Tony who decided an American beef burger was the way to go. All this was washed down with wine, cocktails and liquid aloha courtesy of Kona Brewing. There was plenty of food but none of us could finish what we ordered. The Bubba Gump concept and theme is brilliant but just a little too much of the deep fry for my delicate taste buds. They do have T-shirts for sale and given my track record Alice thought I should purchase the “I Gotta Pee” shirt. The bill with a tip came in at $US194 which was a little more than we bargained for.
Saturday, 7th November – Zumba in Hawaii.
Alice has managed to track down a Zumba class in Kailua-Kona that kicks off at 9:30am. Whilst Julie and she are taking their exercise class Tony and I have been delegated to find an establishment that can print and scan documents. No problem for Ace Ventura and his sidekick as we found a place that met the prerequisite requirements. Tony and I retrieved Julie’s I-pad and then picked up a pair of sweaty girls from their class. They both gave it a thumbs up. By 11:30 we had completed our office duties and were ready to return the car to the airport.
After dropping the girls and the bags off at the Hawaiian airlines baggage carousel we returned the car. The shuttle bus was about to leave so we sprinted and just managed to catch it. Wouldn’t you know it, an Australian drawl said gidday and right before us were Sue and Russell our friends from Australia who will be joining us for our seven day Un-Cruise adventure. You may well ask what were we doing at an airport if we were about to embark on a cruise. The answer to that riddle was that we had to catch their shuttle bus with passengers who were just arriving. Our destination is Kawaihae Harbour which is about 30 miles north of the airport.
The Un-Cruise meet and greet was occurring at the Hapuna Beach Prince resort. After dropping off our bags we had a free run of the resort which has its own golf course and a beautiful beach right on Hapuna Bay. Unfortunately, we did not have access to our togs so we had to settle for a beer around the palm tree shrouded pool which overlooks one of the best beaches on the island. I did get some sand between the toes when I took a long walk along the beach. Around 5:00pm along with the other thirty two guests we boarded our vessel, the Safari Explorer for our week long sea odyssey. In hindsight it would have been ideal to spend about six days on the Big Island with the last two days at the aforementioned resort. Anyway after changing into some suitable attire (shorts and t-shirt) we joined the other guests for a delicious meal and a significant amount of alcohol which is included in our cruise price.
Sunday, 8th November – Pacific Manta Rays
This morning the boys are all a little seedy. I think it is a combination of last night’s beer consumption and the constant rolling of our small ship. We have anchored in Honomalino Bay just off Kailua-Kona where we will have an introductory snorkeling lesson. After collecting all of our equipment we were off in the skiff to a site that was surrounded by lava tubes and imposing basalt cliff face. Of course there was a Jack Nickalus designed golf course hugging the coast line. The snorkeling site was safe enough for everyone but on a scale of one to ten I would give it a three. It was just too deep to get a good feel for the marine life at this location.
Back on board we relaxed with lunch which was followed by an early dinner. We were anchored off shore from the Sheraton resort at Keauhou Bay for a night snorkel with giant Pacific Manta Rays. This activity is supposed to be ranked at number 3 in the top things to do before you die. Judging by the number of boats and lights in the water quite a few people were going to tick this one off their bucket list. We were all provided with wetsuits and around 6:30pm we jumped in the skiff for a short ride to where the Mantas hang out.
The setup for viewing the Mantas is quite ingenious as you are broken up into groups of six and then assigned to a paddle board. The boards have a hole in the centre which holds a powerful light that is used to attract the plankton. Once you have enough plankton the Mantas swoop in and enjoy a big Hawaiian feast. We kicked our paddle board over to an area where they had sighted a few and in no time we were witnessing these beautiful creatures gliding gracefully through the water only metres from us. Some displayed their maneuverability by executing perfect loop the loops. We spent about 45 minutes in the water and all agreed that it was an amazing experience. www.mantarayshawaii.com
Back on board we were treated to a late happy hour that extended way past my bedtime.
Monday, 9th November – Captain Cook
This morning we boarded some skiffs which are operated by Captain Zodiac for a fast trip to Kealakekua Bay for some of the islands best snorkeling. Coincidentally it just happens that this was the spot where Captain Cook was slain in 1779. It is suspected that the Hawaiians attached religious significance to the first stay of the Europeans on their islands. In Cook’s second visit, there was no question of this phenomenon. Kealakekua Bay was considered the sacred harbor of Lono, the fertility god of the Hawaiians, and at the time of Cook’s arrival the locals were engaged in a festival dedicated to Lono. Cook and his compatriots were welcomed as gods and for the next month exploited the Hawaiians’ good will. After one of the crewmen died, exposing the Europeans as mere mortals, relations became strained. On February 4, 1779, the British ships sailed from Kealakekua Bay, but rough seas damaged the foremast of the Resolution, and after only a week at sea the expedition was forced to return to Hawaii.
The Hawaiians greeted Cook and his men by hurling rocks; they then stole a small cutter vessel from the Discovery. Negotiations with King Kalaniopuu for the return of the cutter collapsed after a lesser Hawaiian chief was shot to death and a mob of Hawaiians descended on Cook’s party. The captain and his men fired on the angry Hawaiians, but they were soon overwhelmed, and only a few managed to escape to the safety of the Resolution. Captain Cook himself was killed by the mob. A few days later, the Englishmen retaliated by firing their cannons and muskets at the shore, killing some 30 Hawaiians. The Resolution and Discovery eventually returned to England.
The snorkeling here was excellent as the area is a marine park and the water visibility is a good 25 metres. There were plenty of reef fish and the hard corals were in great condition. Back on board the boys fired up the powerful twin outboards and headed over to the cliff face to show us some lava tubes and sacred Hawaiian sites. Being surrounded by water was having an impact on my rather weak bladder. I relayed my distress to the crew member who yelled out to the captain that they had a ‘code yellow’. A few minutes later I was allowed to jump over the side to relieve my stress. To my satisfaction I was joined by another passenger who seemed to be visibly relaxing.
After lunch it was time for some shore leave in downtown Kailua-Kona. We docked next door to the Sheraton Hotel which has a full sized wooden replica of an outrigger canoe. Our little Un-cruise treat was a half hour paddle in a six man fiberglass outrigger which was skippered by an enthusiastic young Hawaiian. The six of us were soon powering our way out into the harbor. We were so good that they could have used us on a trailer for Hawaii Five O or maybe not. Out in the harbor we did get up close and personal with some spinner dolphins and their young. Afterwards Alice and I trolled a few shops and sites such as Queen Hulihe’e Palace and the Moku’aikaua Church. We then caught the 4:00pm skiff back to the boat as we have booked a free 45 minute massage.
Looking good and feeling relaxed we settled in for cocktails and another sumptuous meal. The captain gave us a talk about our crossing tonight as it is expected to get a tad rough as we motor to Maui. In preparation for our assault on the channel Tony and I armed ourselves by consuming quite a few beers. We knew it was time for bed when the staff started to glad wrap the cupboards to stop them from flying open.
Tuesday, 10th November – West Maui
We knew when the ship was in the major channel as it started to heave left, right, up and down which meant sleep was nigh impossible. Alice had a nasty fall when she attempted to go to the toilet. She went flying backwards and crashed onto the floor. Her arm was severely bruised and she was lucky not to have hurt herself more. At breakfast most of the passengers looked like they had a hard night but that has not stopped us from signing up for some kayaking.
The six of us are on the second kayak trip so we have time for a swim and a paddle board off the back of the ship. I had a go at the stand up paddle board but my effort should have been called fall down boarding. No matter how hard I tried I kept falling off in spectacular fashion. In the end I gave up as I popped a rib cartilage when pulling myself onto the board. Russell fared no better than me but Sue was the queen for the day because she eventually mastered it.
Joe and Joyce who were on the first kayak trip returned on the skiff. They were soaking wet and had to be brought back as they just could not get back on board the kayak. Joe claimed they were torpedoed by a Japanese submarine. Our kayaking was less adventurous but we did manage to cover a bit of territory. Our guide Mitch did manage to show us a couple of sea turtles that were hunting over a small reef just off the shore. As we headed back to the ship and lunch I thought Sue and Russell had other activities planned. They set an outstanding pace as they powered away from the rest of us.
No need to guess what we did after lunch, yes it was another snorkel. Once again the water was crystal clear and teeming with underwater life and coral gardens. Back on board Tony has opted for an afternoon sleep and abstained from drinking alcohol. He is the only man I know who abstains from drinking when it is all inclusive. Power to his resilience!
Wednesday, 11th November – Turtles and Lahaina Town
The captain has altered our schedule for today as we need to get a plumber on board to unblock one of the toilets. This gave us the opportunity to snorkel at the old Mala Warf which was a fishing pier that was destroyed in 1992 by hurricane Iniki. The pylons of the pier and the platform lie scattered on the sea bed providing structure for the many species of fish. The pier has White Tip Reef Sharks, lots of schooling fish, Frogfish, Nudibranchs, and Turtles. Julie who is a non-swimmer and deathly afraid of sharks was certain she saw one. We were not so fortunate but we all spent a great deal of time swimming with at least ten turtles. There were even a couple of small juvenile turtles swimming near their parents. We all love a good collective noun but I cannot understand how they could come up with a “bale of turtles”. Thanks to the turtles we had an amazing snorkeling trip.
After lunch we had a chance to stretch our legs with a walk around Lahaina town. Our tour coordinator gave us a map that had a short walk which gave us a good feel for the history of the town. There was a craft market which was set up under the shade of a massive Banyan tree which nearly covered the entire block. Alice certainly enjoyed the market as it took me some time to extricate her from its spell. She did see a nice photograph and I promised to return later to consider its purchase.
We continued on our walk and saw a wedding in progress at the local Episcopal Church. Later on we learned that Sue had photo bombed the wedding and had her picture taken with the happy gay couple. Some of the other sites included the old courthouse, the old prison and churches of all denominations. There were also some old Hawaiian sites such as The Kings Taro Patch, Brick Palace (only a few left) of Kamehameha 1 and the Hauola Stone which was used by high ranking women to give birth on. It was getting a bit hot so we tucked into a local favourite to cool us down. It was a shaved ice which had ice-cream in the middle and flavoured with cordial. We did return to the market and I was impressed by the photograph that Alice had chosen. Quite a few dollars later we left the market with a photo that will hang gracefully at Currimundi.
Back on board I managed to convince Tony that he should enjoy a slight tipple at happy hour. We had a couple before enjoying a presentation by the local team leader who is responsible for freeing whales from nets and fishing lines.
Thursday, 12th November – Lanai the Pineapple Island
Early this morning our captain navigated his way to the nearby Island of Lanai. The wind was blowing at a good rate so the boarding of the skiffs was a little hairy. Only Sue, Russell and I are up for this morning’s snorkeling trip at the aptly named shark fin rock. Once again the water is crystal clear and as a result great for taking underwater pictures. Russell was trying out his camera managed to take quite a few good shots of the large school of Angel Fish and our attractive bartender, Erica.
After lunch we jumped into a couple of vans for a short drive to the small settlement town of Lanai City. At an elevation of 3000 feet the air is definitely cooler. Most of the native Hawaiians live here and there are a few craft shops as well as a small museum. We learned that by the 1870s, Walter Gibson had acquired most of the land on the island for ranching. Prior to this he had used it as a Mormon colony. In 1899, his daughter and son-in-law formed Maunalei Sugar Company, headquartered in Keomuku. The company failed in 1901. Many native Hawaiians continued to live along the less arid windward coast, supporting themselves by ranching and fishing.
In 1922, James Dole, the president of Hawaiian Pineapple Company, developed a large portion of it into the world's largest pineapple plantation.
With Hawaii Statehood in 1959, Lānaʻi became part of the County of Maui.
In 1985, Lānaʻi passed into the control of David H. Murdock, as a result of his purchase of Castle & Cooke, then owner of Dole.
In June 2012, Larry Ellison, then CEO of Oracle purchased Castle & Cooke's 98 percent share of the island. The state owns the remaining 2 percent. The sale price was not revealed, but the Maui News previously reported the asking price was between $500 million and $600 million. Ellison reportedly plans to invest as much as another $500 million to add to and improve the island's infrastructure and to create an environmentally friendly agricultural industry.
Our time here was limited as we were doing a short hike at Manele Bay where Larry Olsen has one of his Four Season Resorts. The beach here is quite beautiful and attracts day visitors from Maui who come across on the ferry. Our walk took us out to the point where we had a great view of Kaneapua Rock. There looks to be some sort of altar on top which was built ages ago. How they managed to get the rocks up there is anybody’s guess
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