Denmarkable

Saturday 2nd April – Ordrup to Soro

Another excellent sleep last night so I believe that my patterns are back in synchronization. A relaxing morning in Ordrup which was spent surfing the net for a reasonably priced battery for my Asus netbook. After about five years of world travel the old battery is finally on its last legs. Like me it is finding it difficult to hold a charge. As usual the cheapest ones are from China but I don’t have the luxury of being able to wait for a delivery. Enough rambling about batteries I finally found one in Denmark for about $75.

After lunch Jens packed us into the BMW to convey us to Soro where we will spend two nights with Alice and Lilian’s cousin, once removed Helle. Jens avoided the main highway and took us the scenic route through coastal towns and farmland. Along the way we passed Denmark’s oldest inn Bromølle Kro which has been in service since 1198 in the 12th century. Hard to believe something has been in operation long before America and Australia was opened to white settlement.

It is a sad day in Denmark as there is a state funeral for their former prime minister, Anker Jorgensen who passed away at the age of 93. The funeral was televised on national television and I gather that he was well revered. From a family perspective this funeral touched it as one of the pall bearers Lissa is related to Alice’s family. She was the prime minister’s personal secretary and for many years has visited and cared for him. I can’t imagine how difficult the last couple of weeks have been for her. Hopefully, she will be up for a visit to Soro tomorrow.

We arrived at Soro which is a small town bordered by a large lake. There is a large church, quaint shops with a cobbled street running past the main square and church. It was a pleasure to reacquaint ourselves with Jon who appears to be getting younger and to finally meet Helle and their two gorgeous daughters Sophie and Emma. They have a beautiful large house with a backyard that is larger than the combined area of our Milton and Currimundi abodes. The rear of the house overlooks the lake and is separated only by the walking trail that circumnavigates the lake. After coffee we all took a short walk along the foreshore which culminated at the old private school. Some of the out-buildings must be well over a hundred years old. Judging by the photographs on the wall of the local kayak club there are some really big fish that inhabit the lake.

Back at the house Jon plied me with some exotic craft beers and the girls enjoyed a couple of wines. As I watched Jon prepare the evening meal I thought that he could get a gig on Masterchef. He works with great speed and purpose whilst listening to the top 500 heavy metal tracks. He prepared a great meal of baked Atlantic Salmon with a sauce that was to die for. For the record and our later use I think the sauce was constructed as follows.

·         Finely chopped red onion, sautéed in olive oil with some salt and pepper.

·         When softened add a good drop of white wine and a touch of chicken stock

·         Stir, reduce and add a little more wine and season to taste

·         To finish stir in some cream and slightly reduce

·         Pour generously over the Salmon

An amazing dinner, a couple of beers and wines and it was off to bed.

Sunday 3rd April - Soro

This morning was a leisurely affair as we grazed over a sumptuous breakfast. Lilian has decided to say in with Emma and wait for Lissa’s arrival. The rest of us however are going to tackle the 9km lake circuit. It is perfect walking weather as it is still cool and not too many clouds. I was amazed to see plenty of joggers, bicycle riders and a few elderly people out and about. The Danes appear to be a very energetic nation. The deciduous trees are still without leaves so we still get some sunshine penetrating what would be otherwise a very thick canopy. At various intervals there are small jetties protruding out onto the lake which gives you another perspective on how large this body of water is. When we were about two thirds into our journey I could feel a code yellow coming on. Not knowing the Danish etiquette for peeing in nature I sucked in my stomach muscles, lengthened my stride and headed for the town centre for some relief. With that business taken care of we rejoined the trail and finished off the walk which took a little over two hours.

When we arrived Lissa was there and you could tell that she was emotionally worn out from the funeral. Nevertheless she is a trooper and it was good to be able to spend time with her. Prior to lunch Jon and I spent some time with the girls practicing our ski jumping on the Wi machine (don’t know if I spelt that correctly). Needless to say that the girls were far better than me at this extreme sport. Another delicious lunch was followed by some quiet time and the news that the West Indies had just won the 20-20 world cup in spectacular fashion.

With the sun not going down until about 7:30pm it is easy to forget when dinner should be prepared. Luckily, we have Jon to think for us as he has once again jumped into dynamic action and whipped up some nachos and Mexican fajitas with all the accompaniments. He certainly has some skills and once again it was a sensory delight. No heavy drinking tonight as the non-travellers have to work and go off to school.

Monday 4th April – Soro to Aalborg

I managed to get up early as I wanted to say goodbye to Jon and the girls. Our Aussie kids get it easy as Sophie and Emma both have to be at school for an 8:00am start. Helle is working from home and has graciously given up her time to drive us to the station. We had a terrific time in Soro and Jon and Helle could not have been more hospitable. I hope that they will make the big trip down under as we would love to spend some more time with them.

Helle ensured that we were on the right train and the correct carriage for our 10:50 departure to Aalborg. Was the smile on her face one of joy for having met us or the fact that they are finally getting their house back after back to back visitors. I think it was for having met us. The trip to Aalborg is a little over 350km and takes just four hours on the intercity  express train. With a little help from Joan who is Helle’s mum I managed to purchase our tickets on-line prior to leaving home. The cost of this internet booking was around $37.

Once on board we were seated in a 2x2 configuration and shared our area with a gentleman of Eastern European persuasion. Lilian ever the pessimist was glad that he was not carrying a backpack. I think that he may have been Turkish. He slept for most of the trip as there is plenty of legroom and the seats are very comfortable. After about twenty minutes of travel through the panoramic countryside the train dipped into a long tunnel before emerging onto what was the longest rail bridge in the world. The bridge itself connects the Danish islands of Zeeland where the capital Copenhagen is located to the island of Fyn. The main city on Fyn is Odense which was the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen. Our journey continued onwards and within the next hour we crossed a fjord which brought us onto mainland Europe and the area of Jutland. In between towns with quaint names such as Middelfart and Hobro the countryside was dotted with farms.

At the major town of Aarhus which is Denmark’s second largest city we thought we had to change trains to catch the InterCity 337. With a little help from a Danish lady we discerned that all we had to do was change carriages. The train departed on time and 90 minutes later we pulled into Aalborg at 14:50. When we alighted our grand cousin Joan was waiting for us. In no time Joan had us comfortably seated in her Renault Clio and ready to begin another leg of our European vacation. It is always a pleasure staying with relatives like her as she has gone out of her way to make our stay memorable. For instance she has given up her bed for Alice and me and also gone to the trouble of preparing a welcome kit for the three of us. Dinner tonight was delicious slices of roasted ham with creamy baked potato and salad. For yours truly there were even icy cans of Tuborg beer.

Tuesday 5th April – Toppen af Danmark (Top of Denmark)

After a leisurely breakfast of rye bread with cheese, muesli with yogurt, coffee and Danish pastries it was time to hit the road for the top of Denmark. Our route took us across the Limfjorden to Norresundby and then along route 55 to the west coast. This section of Denmark is still part of Jutland but it is an island which is separated by the fjord. Our journey on this route was almost devoid of traffic and travelled through farmland that supported dairy cattle grazing on rich pastures. Occasionally a startled hare would dart across the open fields. As we neared the coastline you could nearly taste the salt as it was being carried inland by the incessant wind.

Rubjerg Knude Lighthouse which is located on the coast of the North Sea just south of Lonstrup was our first stop. It was first lit in December 1900.The lighthouse is on the top of Lonstrup Klint (cliff), 60 metres above sea level. Both shifting sands and coastal erosion are a serious problem in the area. The coast is eroded on average 1.5 metres a year, which can be seen most clearly as you peer over the edge of the cliff from the ruins of the dismantled buildings. Fortunately for us we were able to get up to the old light via the recently installed interior flight of steps. The view of the desert like dunes and the sea was worth the climb. It is expected that due to the erosion the lighthouse will topple into the sea in the next 10 to 15 years.

A few kilometres down the road was the fishing village of Lonstrup. The sea which has provided the livelihood for generations is now threatening to devour the cliff on which the town was built. The locals have built a series of stone walls to help stabilize the cliff. The village is popular for artisans as there are a number of galleries and open workshops. We took a stroll along the winding high street past well-maintained old fishermen’s houses, painters, glassblowers, potters and goldsmiths. We ultimately stopped for lunch at a cozy restaurant that offered a lunch meal deal that included a filet of flounder. I washed the meal down with a pint of the local stout.

It was time to hit the road again and back to route 55. Our travels took us past numerous camp sites that were starting to get a few caravans prior to the summer rush. We had a two minute look at the town of Hirtshals where large boats take on passengers and cars to destinations like Norway. We took route 597 to the east coast and then hung a left onto route 40 for a twenty five kilometre drive to the end of the road at Grenen. The entire region at the Top of Denmark has been shaped by the wind and the sea. The absolute tip, Lands End, at Grenen is a piece of Denmark that is not easy to pin down. It is constantly moving, depending on the direction of the wind and the ocean currents. By the time we reached Grenen the clouds had appeared and the wind was at a debilitating chill factor. For that reason we dipped our toes in the Kattegat which was a couple of hundred metres short of where the two seas, the Skagerrak and the Kattegat meet. So close but yet so far. During World War 2 the top of Denmark was also the German’s bridgehead to Norway. The German fortification of the Danish west coast was the biggest construction project in Denmark’s history and took place between 1941 and 1944. There are a number of Bunker Museums on the island and they are well worth a visit.

Our next stop was on the outskirts of the picturesque small town of Skagen to take a gander at the oldest lighthouse in Denmark. The Vippefyret, Skagen lighthouse was built in 1627 and is like no other lighthouse that I have seen. It looks more like a medieval catapult as it is cantilevered to hoist a basket of fire or burning coals 10 metres into the air. We stopped at Skagen in search of a steaming hot coffee and cake. The main shopping street is lined with buildings that were built in the early 1900’s but today they were nearly devoid of people. I think that was due to the lateness of the day and the wind that could have frozen the proverbials off a brass monkey. Joan was on a mission for coffee but was being hampered at every turn as everything was closing for the day. Eventually we found a Belgian Waffle shop that was still open. We ended up with a very rich waffle topped with ice-cream and smothered with chocolate sauce. The percolated coffee was very bland but it helped to warm us up.

The top of Denmark is also excellent for cycling and hiking due to the flatness of the terrain. The North Sea Trail runs all the way round the North Sea through Denmark, Germany and the Netherlands. You can also hike the well signposted Ancient Road Haervejen which is part of the historic pilgrims’ route from the cathedral in Trondheim, Denmark to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Anyone up for a stroll!

The journey back to Aalborg was just over 100km and the rain from the south had finally reached us. We travelled back on route 40 to Frederikshavn and then took the E45 expressway. In the conditions Joan drove with controlled expertise and delivered us safely back to the unit at 18:30. After such a large lunch today we had a simple meal of Danish hotdogs. I of course washed this down with a few Tuborgs.

Wednesday 6th April – Downtown Aalborg

Today is not a rush day so we took our time over breakfast before heading off to the downtown area. Joan showed us where she grew up and then took us to the cemetery where her mother and father are interred. The cemetery itself was the best kept graveyard that I have ever seen. The plots were a reflection of the love each family held for those who had passed before them.

In the downtown area it was quite busy and Joan had a hard time finding a place to park. As we left the car-park I thought that it was going to be an extraordinary long day. It had nothing to do with the extended hours of daylight but more to do because of how bitterly cold it was. The last time I was so cold it was blowing a gale in Iceland. I was so thankful when Joan directed us to a shop that was operated by the Church that was selling second-hand clothes. I soon found a jacket that reeked of warmth and had my name written on it. Fifty five Danish Kroner ($11) I was standing outside as warm as toast feeling like I was king of the world. And so it goes! We wandered around the old part of the City along cobblestone streets seeking out the poorer quarters where the ragged people go (Gotta Love Simon and Garfunkel). Seriously though, Joan did lead us through some interesting parts of the City.

Around lunch time I was forced onto the suffering seat as the girls trolled through the Sailing Department store. Just outside the store there is a lift that transports you down to the Middle Ages. As you exit the lift there is a well laid out small museum which exhibits the subterranean remains of the medieval Greyfriars Monastery. In one of the display cases there is a complete human skeleton. You can also see what ancient monastic life may have been like as well as the remains of the monastery’s foundations. By the time I returned to the surface the girls had still not returned from their shopping foray so I dutifully took up my position on the suffering seat. Eventually, they returned so we took a break and had lunch at the department store.

Joan took us on a walking tour which started with Jens Bangs House which was built by the wealthy Jens in 1642. In spite of his wealth he was never made a member of the town council and he can be seen sticking out his tongue at the town hall. The building façade is covered with caricatures of what many say were his enemies. Sweet revenge for old Jens Bang! The town hall that Jens sneered at was the predecessor of the present modern building that was constructed in 1759. Cook still had not made it to Australia! The square in front of the town hall is the oldest in the City and marks the city centre. Distances from Aalborg are still measured from this place and the stone column in the middle of the square is the zero kilometre stone. The highlight of the walk was not the Sogaards Bryghus which offers gastronomical delights as well as their own special beers but the imposing Budolfi Cathedral. Work has been going on here for over 800 years and the baroque spire is the trademark of the city. Inside the church on the cross vaulting you can see fine frescoes of the four evangelists. The last of the historical sites that we visited was the Monastery of the Holy Ghost. We went into the outer courtyard with its well preserved fountain and had a great look at the outside architecture of the building.

At this stage I managed to wangle a leave pass for an hour as the girls wanted to browse a few stores and look at the Utzon Centre. Utzon was the Danish architect who designed the Sydney Opera House. My plan was to head to a pub and purchase a ticket for the Aalborg Beerwalk. I made my way to the John Bull Pub where they had a huge range of beers on tap. For DKK100 I purchased my Beerwalk kit which consisted of a tasting glass, six beer vouchers and a map showing the location of the participating establishments. I started with a John Bull dark ale and a Founders All Day Session IPA which is brewed in Grand Rapids, Michigan. Across the road in one of the historic buildings that lines Osteragade Street was the Irish House. When I entered the bar I was greeted in an Irish brogue by the owner Jerome. I also increased the patronage by 100percent to a total of one. There were plenty of beers on tap and as time was running out I decided to off load all of my remaining vouchers here. I started with a dark ale and followed with a Galway Hooker Irish Pale Ale which is brewed on the west coast of Ireland. It was well balanced, fully flavoured with a great finish making it a highly refreshing and more-ish beer. It was getting close to my departure time for the Utzon centre so I quickly knocked back my last beer which was a draft of Guinness.

When I emerged back out onto the street I was amazed to see that it was raining. I met Alice at the centre and we headed up the street to the imposing Musikkens Hus. With its circular windows, raw concrete exterior and soft, drop-like interiors it is architectonic landmark on the waterfront. The rain had now eased off so we headed back to the car-park passing the Abbey Road Café along the way.

Back home again and Joan whipped up a delicious meal of rissoles with onion gravy and baby potatoes whose origin was possibly Spain. A cheeky bottle of Chianti complemented the meal.