Tuesday 10th May – TGV Disaster

Tuesday 10^th May – TGV Disaster

There is no action in the camp this morning as Lilian is preparing for her afternoon adventure on the TGV. We had prepared well and arrived at the station at 2:00pm. I dropped the girls off at the front of what looks like the entrance to an airport and went in search of an elusive car-park. After reversing out of a couple of boom gate controlled entrances and clutching a wad of car-park tickets I managed to find a spot at the rear of the station for short term parking. With yet another ticket I took a short walk and quickly found the girls. All the signage was in French but we found a board indicating Lilian’s train number and it matched her departure time of 2:46pm. When the train pulled in just after 2:40 I loaded her suitcase onto the train and watched her as she went upstairs to her allocated seat. The TGV pulled out promptly at 2:46pm and we waved to each other as it pulled out of the station.

Feeling satisfied we drove off to the hospital. After a fruitless search for a parking space we decided to find something off-site. We had a little bit of luck and found a spot about 1km from the hospital. When we arrived Jens was looking fine but had a pensive look on his face. He had just had a text from Lilian that stated “The ticket inspector says I am on the wrong train. This one is going to Paris and not the airport”. I can’t imagine how she felt as she is a stranger in a strange land and surprisingly very few people admit to speaking English. The only positive thing was that she was going to Paris where she could easily connect to the frequent Metro service to the airport or so we thought. On arrival at Paris she would have approximately 4 hours before her flight. The other piece of good news that we received from her was that a young Frenchman was going to assist her when they arrived in Paris.

I was beating myself up for putting her on the wrong train, how could I the Transport Planner have stuffed big time. It turned out that the train she was on was running ten minutes late and that her train would be following. All the announcements at the station were in French and in hindsight I should have checked with someone. I hope Lilian forgives me?

We stayed with Jens for another hour and he said that he would text us any news from Lilian. Back at the camper we waited patiently for any news but nothing was forthcoming. Apparently her troubles were not over as the station in Paris was being renovated and it was difficult to find the right platform. She followed the signage and four times she ended up back in the same spot. She was sweating profusely but eventually she teamed up with an American man and made it to the airport. Her troubles were not quite over as the security line was very long and it took her over 30 minutes to get through. Before we went to sleep we received the text that we had been waiting for – she was at the boarding gate. What should have been a relaxing journey for her had turned into a nightmare. So glad that she got through it.

Wednesday 11^th May – Check Out Time for Jens

After the trouble we have had finding a parking space at the hospital we decided to take the ferry over to Avignon. We decided to spend some time looking around prior to catching the bus to the hospital. Our first priority was to escape the drizzling rain and have a croissant and a shot of coffee. We ended up walking randomly through the pedestrian only laneways gazing into the multitude of shop fronts. At the Place Pie we found that the Halles Market was open so we went inside to see what was on offer. What a pleasant surprise it was as they were selling all manner of Provencal produce. Wandering through the various sections had my taste buds salivating. Needless to say we purchased a few products that should feed us for a couple of nights.

Over at the hospital Jens was sitting up and almost ready to be released. It is not a prison and he could have easily walked out without settling his account. They did have his contact details so we had to find a counter on the ground floor where he could pay. I went to reception and although there was a language barrier I managed to convey something which got us some assistance from an English speaking staff member. She was fantastic and her accent sounded like she was schooled at Downton Abbey. With her help Jens was able to pay his 990euro account for seven days accommodation and have all his records sent to Denmark. The cost of the stay was very reasonable considering the care and CT scan he received. I can’t imagine what this would have cost if it had occurred in the USA. We should have enlisted her help in organizing a taxi as this proved to be the most difficult part in getting Jens off the hospital premises. I had meanwhile caught the bus into Avignon to get Jens’ prescription filled and some much needed cash from the ATM.

The good news was that they eventually got a taxi and Jens managed to walk a considerable distance from the front gate to his camper. Hopefully this will continue to be the norm and he can finally enjoy himself. I know that he will miss Lilian’s company but Alice and I are not a bad support act.

Thursday 12^th May – On the Road Again

Well we are on the road again but it did not occur until about 11:30am due to our slow effort in packing up. After a week in Avignon it is time to say goodbye to what is a very beautiful town and camping area. We are going to travel on some minor roads to avoid the dreaded tollways and enjoy some of the French countryside. Our trip will take us north through the small towns of Bagnols and Barjac. There are plenty of roadside stalls selling fresh strawberries and asparagus and some of the scenery is breathtaking. One thing we have noted with the GPS is if you select the shortest route then there is a strong chance that you will be taken along some very narrow roads. At Barjac for example we were saved 200 metres off our route by being diverted through the centre of the old town. We just managed to get through.

We then travelled through Vallon-Pont d Arc where there is a plethora of camping grounds situated in close proximity to the river. Judging by the number of canoe operations there would appear to be a booming trade in river activities when the season warms up. Our destination is the Caverne Du Pont D’Arc which is situated on the Plateau du Razal about 10km further on from Vallon. The car-park had plenty of room for campers so whilst Alice was preparing lunch I went and bought our tickets (13euro)for the Caverne. I managed to secure a booking for 3:30pm which gave us plenty of time for lunch.

The good news is that Jens is able to join us for this excursion into the cave. Now here is the twist, it is not a cave but a replica not far from the original cave. I have to say that once we entered you felt that you were in the original cave. The paintings are said to be from the first artists in the history of humanity and have been carbon dated to 36,000 years ago. The detail in the charcoal paintings is amazing as they captured animals such as horses, rhinos, lions, mammoths, bears and bison in action and running. Given that we are in southern France Alice and I pondered the fact that lions and rhino were predominant in the paintings. There was plenty of walking involved and Jens pulled up fairly well after his excursion. He just has to remember the old nautical term “Dead slow ahead” and he should be fine.

As it was getting close to 5:00pm we chose to stay in Vallon at the International Camping Ground (23euro) on the banks of the L’Ardeche River. Sitting in our deck chairs, sipping wine and in my case guzzling beer as the river flowed swiftly below us was a great end afternoon. None of us felt like cooking so it was off to the restaurant for some steak and chips. At 9:30 we hit the sack and the last sound I heard was the thundering sound of the river as it crashed over the weir. It reminded me of the sound of crashing surf at Double Island Point, sweet memories.

Friday 13^th May – Aven d’Orgnac

We have really enjoyed this location so we have decided to stay an extra night and spend the day exploring the local region. About 20km away there is the Grand site Aven d’ Orgnac which is a huge limestone cave. Arriving just before 11:30 we were lucky enough to secure tickets for a tour at that time. Jens decided not to descend into the depths of the earth as there are over 700 steps. A lift has been installed that conveys visitors back to the surface. Did I say lucky our group consisted of another couple and about 30 excited school children. We descended down a flight of very wet steps to 55m where we could see the opening for the natural passage into the cave. It was discovered in 1935 by a team of speleologists led by Robert de Joly. We then climbed back up to 50m where we had an overall view of this huge chamber: it is 125m long and 90m wide, giving a surface area of over 1 hectare.

Our guide must have taken pity on us as he yelled out to the guide ahead of us if we and the other couple could join his English speaking tour. An affirmative reply was received so we quickly descended down to the next stop and joined his large group of two. This was an excellent result as the guide gave us some could information about the cave system. The formations in this section were formed by different flow rates and the best were a 10m tall ‘pine cone’ stalagmite and a ‘palm tree’ stalagmite more than 15m high. A series of stalactites and stalagmites grew together over time, forming a group called the ‘organ pipes’. In a niche there rests the funeral urn of the cave’s discoverer.

We descended down into another chamber and to a depth of 100m. There were formations of jellyfish and draperies which had a red colour and stood in strong contrast to the uncoloured white calcite. Our last stop in the third chamber was at a depth of 120m. Our guide promised a surprise and as we stood on a platform admiring the chamber he turned out the lights. It was pitch black and then we heard the strains of classical music before being treated to a sound and light show. It really highlighted the stupendous beauty of this natural spectacle.

Back on the surface we found Jens relaxing over a cup of coffee. He had spent his time visiting the Cite de la Prehistorie which was an exhibition of prehistoric man. It is an interactive display in French that take you on a voyage of 350,000 years. It is a good display which in English would have taken over an hour to visit. With the help of an English cheat sheet we sped through in 15minutes. After lunch we headed back to Vallon for a spot of shopping.

Alice and I decided on another drive which followed the route of the L’Ardeche River. There were some great views and we were constantly stopping to take photographs of the amazing scenery. After driving through a couple of tunnels that had been driven through the rock we came out at a fantastic site that lends its name to everything in the area. It is a natural limestone arch that spans the river and is simply called Pont d’ Arc. There were plenty of cars stopping in the car-park to get up close and personal with this natural phenomenon. We decided to continue on and after a series of switchbacks we were at the top of an escarpment. There was an opportunity to turnaround and after parking the camper we took in the panoramic view. Below us the river snaked its way through valleys and gorges, you could even see the bright shapes of the canoes that sped along on the current of the river. Going down was much easier than coming up as Alice wasn’t scared that I was going to drive off the edge.

Back at the camp we both raced into dynamic action. I quickly set up the camper while Alice started the preparation for tonight’s dinner. With the preparation done it was time to relax down by the river on our now dried deck chairs. The Weber was out and our pork filet and grilled vegetables were slowly roasting to perfection. A nice cheeky red that we had purchased earlier from the Lidl supermarket which seems to be modeled on Aldi complemented a great meal and the end to what was not a Black Friday.

Saturday 14^th May – Clermont – Ferrand

Today we are off to an early start and were travelling up route D579 just before 10:00am. Well by our standards it is an early start. I’m leading the way today and using old style navigation. Yes I am consulting a cartographers dream by using the road map of France. It is not a fast drive as there are heaps of roundabouts and small towns to drive through. It is like travelling between Brisbane and Sydney on the Pacific Highway prior to the bypasses being built. The road in general is following the river and passes signage indicating that there is no shortage of camping spots in this area.

After about one hour we took national road N102 and continued our journey north. It is interesting to note the different stores as you pass through the towns. Most have a patisserie, small fromage and a butcher. The butchers tend to cater for different types of meat. For instance if you want pork look for a picture of a pig and the large range of hams hanging in the window. At one of the legume stores Alice loaded up with fresh asparagus and sweet strawberries. The scenery however on this section of road was the highlight, mile after mile of jaw dropping landscape. The road continued to climb through a series of switchbacks which kept our Fiat in third gear. Near the summit there was a small waterfall which indicated that this was the source of the L’Ardeche River. Not long after this we emerged onto a plateau where we took a break for lunch. There was an abandoned restaurant nearby that had promised a Montana style dance. The epitaph for the restaurant should have read, American mid west comes to France and dies a natural death. As is always the case all the rest stops after ours were fantastic and sported picnic tables with great views. The countryside which is very green is awash with dairy farms and very fat, contented cows.

The last 50km of the journey was on the motorway and for once it was devoid of tolls. Our destination of Puy de Dome which is an old volcano is a little southwest of Clermont-Ferrand. We have chosen a site called Camping Indigo Royat (22.5euro). The facilities here are excellent and Alice is looking forward to a long hot shower. She wasn’t disappointed and even managed to wash and blow dry her hair. The little things do make a difference. Dinner tonight was again cooked on the Weber and the hamburger patties that we had purchased at the market in Avignon were delicious. The cold was starting to set in and I needed to don my parka whilst slaving over the barbeque. I watched in amazement as a young French girl clad in shorts and singlet happily played boule.

Sunday 15^th May – Bourges

I think last night would have been the coldest so far on the trip and this morning it is a chilly 8 degrees. Alice bless her heart has come to the rescue and made us all a spinach omelet. Jens is still feeling good and is raring to go on the next leg to Bourges. At the front of the park I was waiting on Alice and Jens to come out and lead the way. The camper soon appeared and pulled over in front of me. A couple of minutes later they started off and I dutifully followed. At the first intersection Alice came on the walkie talkie and instructed me too turn right. I replied that Jens had his left indicator on so when the light turned green I followed him left. Alice came on and said I told you to turn right. I was perplexed and couldn’t figure out why she was giving me these counter intuitive directions when I was right behind them. She gave me another instruction to take a particular exit at the next roundabout to which I agreed. Halfway down a steep hill the penny dropped, I was following the wrong camper and in the rear vision mirror there was Alice and Jens. I have been following him for nearly 4000km so I should know his camper is white and has bicycle racks. To add insult to injury the van I was following was grey with no racks. I’m lucky they came out of the park when they did or who knows where I would have ended up. The upside was that we did get a scenic tour of Clermont-Ferrand.

We made it out to the motorway and after about 10km the dreaded “T” word appeared, Tollway. After getting our ticket we spent the next 170km travelling at a comfortable speed towards the Bourges exit. The countryside is still green but it is mostly farming pastures. At the toll booth exit I had trouble once again. My credit card just would not work, after trying all combinations several ways and in two different slots. In the end I stuffed a 50euro note into the poker machine slot and was rewarded with 17.20euro in coins. Jackpot, the boom gate lifted and we were on our way to the Robinson Camping Ground. For 21.62euro a night this is a cracker of a campsite. The sites are wide, well planned out and close to a very clean amenities block. The real bonus is that it is only 1.5km to the city centre.

After a late lunch we all piled into our camper and drove a short distance to a large parking lot adjacent to the city centre. From here it was only a short walk to the main attraction, the Cathedral St. Etienne. As the symbolic figurehead of Capetian France against rival Plantagenet occupations in the south, The Cathedral of Bourges had to be a unique and grandiose monument. The Master of Bourges chose a floor plan without a transept and plastic effects that were revolutionary for the time. We had a tour inside and had the pleasure of listening to a singer whose voice was enhanced by the great acoustics. The stained glass windows were works of art and the huge organ dominated one end of the cathedral, the widest in France. Next to the cathedral is the Archbishop’s 17^th century garden with flower beds and immaculate borders. The weather was good so there was plenty of activity with children playing on the merry-go-round and adults sipping coffee and beer near the music pavilion.

We did not have a lot of time so to explore the old city quickly we boarded the “Petit Train” for a 45 minute excursion. The route took us past the majority of the attractions and the English audio guide explained the history. One of the highlights was travelling down Rue Bourbonnoux whose timber framed houses date back to 1487. It is a charming district with old book shops and antique dealers helping to preserve the medieval air of this street. There were Gallo- Roman ramparts, palaces and squares for us to admire. With our tour over Jens decided to take a coffee in the square as he declined to join us in a jaunt to climb the north tower of the cathedral. It was a good decision as the spiral staircase had 396 steps and rose to a height of 66 metres. The north tower was nicknamed the “Butter Tower” as it collapsed in 1506 and had to be rebuilt. I was out of breath when we emerged on to the rooftop but the view of the City made the effort worthwhile. We could even see Jens who was now sipping a beer.

It was getting late in the afternoon so we headed back to the camp ground and the last of the sunshine. When the sun was out my jacket was off but as soon as it disappeared there was a dramatic drop in temperature. On and off, on and off seemed to be the norm for my jacket this afternoon. Alice is having a wi-fi fix and after a beer Jens joined her. Me on the other hand braved the elements and sipped on a couple of cold Heinekens.

Monday 16^th May –  Villandry Chateau

Jens’ wi-fi time has been put to good use as he has found what appears to be a good campground on an island on the La’ Loire River about 250km away near Saumur. We are heading towards Tours and will take some minor roads to avoid the tolls and enjoy the scenery. Just prior to our departure we struck up a conversation with an Indian gentleman from Keil in Germany. He was a real character and said if he had known that there were fellow travelers from the Commonwealth then he would have been over for a beer. He was travelling towards Tours later in the morning and as we were going in the same direction he strongly suggested that we visit the Chateau and Gardens at Villandry.

With this in mind we set off on our journey that was supposed to avoid the tollway. Would you believe Jens did not set the nav man correctly and as a result we were back on the dreaded tollway. This time at least we were only on for 60km but that still cost 9.10euro. Once again I had trouble, this time it was Alice’s credit card that caused me grief. We had a few coins left over from yesterday’s debacle which was enough to open the gate to freedom. Once we were off the tollway it was a relaxing drive that took us past vineyards, farmland and through many small towns. In the distance we would occasionally spot the remnants of old buildings and chateaus. We did stop to try and buy some supplies but all the stores were closed after 12::30pm. About an hour later we pulled into Villandry and judging by the number of visitors it was a place that should not be missed. For 10.50euro each Alice and I were granted the pleasure of visiting the chateau and extensive gardens.

We took the suggestion of the ticket seller and did a tour of the chateau first. Villandry was built in 1536 and many of the 14 rooms we visited have been restored to their original elegance. The highlights for me were the art gallery which holds a good collection of Spanish art from the 17^th century. Most of the paintings on display are of religious works. The other highlight was the keep. After climbing the steps which have a slant of nearly 30 degrees you are rewarded with a birds eye view of the gardens, as well as a panoramic view of the valley.

After exiting the chateau we spent a delightful hour in the magnificent gardens that were restored by Joachim Carvallo in the early 1900’s. You could easily spend a couple of hours here looking at the many of the features including the ornamental, sun, water, herb gardens as well as the maze. We enjoyed the vegetable garden which is made up of nine squares of equal size but with different geometric patterns in each. The squares are planted with vegetables of alternating colours (the blue of the leeks, the red of the cabbages and beetroot, the jade green of the carrot tops) to create the illusion of a multi-coloured chess board.

After our tour we found Jens sipping a cup of coffee at a table on a narrow footpath. We could have stayed the night here as it is a free camp however Jens is out of gas which means he cannot cool the refrigerator or heat water. We decided to stick to our original plan and travel down the road for another 55km to Saumur. This section of the drive was excellent as we mostly followed the very wide Loire River. I suspect that flooding is an issue here as the road was built on top of a huge levee. There were many beautiful stone houses nestled below the protecting hulk of the levee. Just after 5:00pm we came to the outskirts of Saumur and crossed a bridge which deposited us on an island. We are staying at the rather hippie sounding Flower camping Ile d’ Offard which is supposed to be a four star park. We took a site for 19euro a night which has all you need, close to the swimming pool and the amenities block. For a couple of euro more we could have taken a site which would give us a view of the river and the imposing chateau on the far bank.