Friday 15th April – Ordrup to Germany
The postscript to last night’s Ludo tournament was that Alice went on a rampage. She threw so many sixes that she could have been a high roller on a Vegas crap table and ended up winning the game in a canter. In the twilight a young female deer crept into the yard and feasted on the apples that Lilian had put out.
The weather is not looking good for the commencement of our trip but I guess that is something you have to expect at this time of year. With the BMW packed we hit the road at 10:00 am for our 300km trip to Flensburg, Germany. The first part of the journey was through familiar territory and within an hour we were crossing the 17km or thereabouts bridge onto the island of Fynn. We bypassed the town of Odense which is a bit of an “Ugly Duckling” and my way of saying it is the birthplace of H.C.Andersen. Jens kept the speed up around 125kmph which was just under the 130 limit. Even at this speed there were still plenty of motorists passing us.
Just before 1:00pm we crossed the border into Germany. There was no check-point for us but for those entering into Denmark they were subjected to a short delay as Danish officers did a quick check of passports. This is in response to the growing problem of refugees travelling through a Europe without borders. Flensburg is right on the border and we took the scenic route along the waterfront. It was lined with pubs and eating places and on a warm sunny day it would be packed with revelers. It did not take long before we arrived at the IMC motorclub of which Jens is a member. It is here where we will pickup our Fiat Ducati City-Camper roadcar which will be our home for the next 10 weeks.
We quickly unloaded our luggage and headed over to City Market to purchase some food for the next few days. It is a popular shopping place for Danes as they come here to purchase tax free alcohol by the boot load. It is not uncommon to see a trolley laden with 10 cartons of beer. We also need some Euros as we have to pay IMC a 1000 Euro deposit for the camper. After completing the formal paperwork Alice and I were given an orientation of the camper and instructions on how to operate everything. The layout is excellent and a picture will describe it far better than me. One benefit is that at night we can put on a gas heater that blows in warm air and keeps everything toasty.
With all the preparation done it was time to follow Jens out onto the wrong side of the road for a 200km drive to our first camping ground. I had no idea where we were headed so it was imperative that I did not lose sight of Jens. We made it safely to the first traffic light which was red. When it turned green Jens turned right and I stalled the Fiat. I could not believe it 250 metres and I had lost him. It turned out that I had selected the wrong gear and when the light finally turned green I headed off in the direction where we had last seen him. Thankfully he had realized that I had stuffed up and was pulled up on the side of the road where I could see him. With that drama out of the way we settled into what was a fairly relaxing drive, if you discount all the 18 wheelers, on the German Highway network. With a couple of minor navigational errors we pulled into the small town of Basedow just before 7:00pm and found our campground called Lanse Am See. Our site for the next two nights could not be any better as it overlooks a beautiful stretch of water.
Our plan tonight was to have dinner at the local restaurant which was not long off closing. We were the only customers when we took our table at 7:45. Another couple arrived just after us so we did not feel that we had inconvenienced the staff. The menu was typically German and after settling on some herring, steak and of course Weiner Schnitzel we ordered our half litres of beer. Alice of course settled for a local Rose which she declared delicious. When the food arrived we could not believe the size of the portions. Alice’s Schnitzel could have fed three of us and may have defeated my mate Jon Black whom we affectionately call Dyson for the amount of food that he can put away. We all struggled with the food but Alice had to take home a full piece of Schnitzel in her handbag for tomorrow’s lunch. With our tum tums sated we all settled in for the night for what had been a pretty big day.
Saturday 16th April – Lansee Am See
This morning we awoke to the sounds of honking geese that reside at a nearby island that forms part of the waterway. As we looked out of the camper window we could see the occasional yacht with mast lowered motoring along the waterway. After breakfast Alice and Lilian took a short walk around the edge of the watercourse. Jens and I busied ourselves with setting up the campers. I struggled for a bit trying to figure out where to connect to mains power. In the end I discovered that the connection was under the bonnet. My last task was to unfurl the annex and put out the camp chairs.
Alice and I decided to take a long walk in an effort to shed some of the calories from last night’s meal. We headed off across the old wrought iron fence that spans the waterway and stopped to look at a map which outlined the local area. It turns out that the waterway is a canal that eventually ends up at open water with access to the sea. We followed the left bank which also doubles as a very long bikeway. The first section took us past the local community before reaching the forest and some farmland. Judging by the land mines I nearly stepped in the trail is also used by the locals to walk some very large dogs. On this section we saw locals fishing in the canal but it did not look they were getting any bites. There were also a couple of random cyclists and horse riders. All in all we had the trail pretty much to ourselves. The only noise we could hear was the chirping of the birds and the honking of the geese. We passed under a rail bridge and kept walking until we reached the next village. There was a road bridge so we decided to take pot luck and cross over in the hope that we would end up back at the camping ground. On this side of the canal we could really feel the coolness and the strength of the westerly wind. When we reached the railway bridge we decided to cross the tracks and follow a trail that looked like it would return us to our camp. We ended up in the right location and the last part of the walk too us past a lot of summer houses that had great views of the water. I think the walk was around 8km and with the clock approaching 2:00pm we were ready for a quick bite to eat.
To escape the wind I ended up moving the camper. This allowed me to sit outside and take in the fresh air and read my novel. Due to the drop in temperature my foray into the great outdoors proved to be to ridiculous scenario. Donning some warmer clothes I joined the others for a late afternoon libation.
Dinner tonight was taken again at the local restaurant. We were a little earlier this evening and quite a few tables were already taken. I can imagine that this place would be very busy in the summer months. After last night’s huge meal we all made a pact not to order the same meals. In the end we ordered a sausage with chips and lashings of the local flavoured tomato sauce. Once again there were lashings of food and there was no chance that we would be going to bed hungry.
Sunday 17th April Basedow to Osterode
I awoke this morning at around 6:00 am and everything was so still. The sun was just peeking over the horizon and the reflection of the light on the calm water was breathtaking. The diver ducks and geese were on their early morning patrol hunting for the tidbits that lurk just below. With my morning coffee and all this fresh air it was a great start to the day.
We settled up our account which was 35euro for the two nights and hit the road just after 10:00am. Today we are travelling around 280km and heading southwest into the middle of Germany. Our drive took us back towards Hamburg where we joined up with the autobahn that took us towards Hanover and Bremen. The pace Jens set was a little over 100kmph which suited me to a tee. There are hardly any trucks on the road as the majority of them are banned from using the road network on weekends. This made the driving more pleasant but every time you passed one of the many rest areas there were wall to wall trucks parked just waiting for midnight on Sunday. We did take a couple of breaks for the compulsory code yellow stop as well as stopping for lunch. With about 25km left to our destination of Osterode we left the autobahn to a much less busy section. There were quite a few picturesque hamlets that looked like they had just sprouted out of the farmland. At the centre of each of them there seemed to be a large church with a huge spire. Just after 2:00pm we arrived at our destination “Campingplatz Eulenburg und Industriedenkmal Eulenburg”.
The area we are in is known as the Harz Mountains. The camping ground is set at the base of a small mountain and has a small crystal clear brook running through it. As we are only staying one night we have elected to camp outside the park for the princely sum of 10euro. We still have access to all the facilities which is all we need. After setting up camp which took all of five minutes Alice and I decided to take a short stroll. The brook separates the park from the forest so after crossing a small pedestrian bridge we headed up hill. After a few minutes we came out on a gravel road which took us in the direction of the village. There were quite a few locals out taking in the fresh mountain air and exercising their ”hunds”. Back near the camping ground we took a slight detour to check out the Industriedenkmal. It was basically a very old factory that has now been turned into a camping hotel. It of course has an attached bowling alley. The camping ground also has a swimming pool. Alice decided to forego a swim not because it was too cold but because she did not think move her arms through the algae. I suspect that it will be nice and blue before the first of May.
After such a long walk of nearly three kilometres we were in need of some refreshment. Adjourning to the Jens mobile we had a couple of drinks before getting ready for dinner. The restaurant is attached to the camping ground and serves a basic fare with locally brewed beers. Of course we all had the Schnitzel but chose different sauces of mushroom, onion and tomato. The beer was so good that Jens and I ordered another. The bill for Alice and I was a very reasonable 26euro which included our drinks. Even though we are heading south it is still not dark even though the time is nearly 9:00pm. I guess we will have a nightcap and then try to catch forty winks.
Monday 18th April – Osterode to Triefenstein
It sure was cold last night which was evidenced by the sheet of ice on the roof of the park restaurant. Nevertheless we were comfortable inside the camper and managed a decent night’s sleep. After breakfast and some routine maintenance we hit the road.
We are heading into Bavaria with the nearest major town is Wurzburg. The journey is a little over 300km but will take a few hours as we are taking the road less travelled. Jens has entered the shortest route into the Navman which keeps us on the main highways for about half the journey. It wasn’t long into the journey when the Navman let us down. We were approaching a small village but the main road through was blocked due to road works. There were no detour signs and Mrs Navman kept wanting us to turn in circles and travel via the main road. The two vans would have looked a sight negotiating the narrow streets. After all this excitement I needed a code yellow break so at the next village Jens pulled up outside a pharmacy. Luckily we have a on board toilet which is perfect for me. As we were right next to a bank we filled up with cash from the ATM and then went and spent some at the adjacent REMA 1000 store. I think they are a cheaper version of Aldi.
The trip took us through some amazing countryside. The number of small villages with neatly kept houses and lawns kept us entertained. There was always the ubiquitous stone church with spire in each of them. The land is green and this far south the trees are green with their new spring growth. In the larger towns there was always some heavy industry that supported the local economy. Back on the autobahn and the big 18 wheelers are out in force. They do not cause much of a problem for us as the it is mostly three lanes which allows everyone to pass.
After lunch I was a little excited as I was reading a map of the area and saw the town of Hammelburg. It brought back memories of me as a kid sitting in front of the television and watching the old sitcom, Hogans Heroes. In a lot of episodes Bob Crane (Col. Hogan) and his cronies would escape from their captors Werner Kempler (Col. Klink) and John Banner (I see nothing Sgt. Schultz) and head into Hammelburg to sabotage the Nazis or have a night at the tavern. Ah the memories! It was a nice town that even had a free spot in a park for motor homes. Alas we could not stay as we still had to travel through villages with names like Bad Kissingen, Wild Flecken and Bad Bruckenau.
About 20km out from our destination we missed a couple of turns but this time the navman put us back on track, albeit down a couple of narrow streets. The last part of our journey we followed the river before turning off to our home for the night Camping Main-Spessart Park in Triefenstein. It has been a long day behind the wheel and to late in the afternoon to take a walk along one of the nearby trails. I did however have time to enjoy a late afternoon beer in the warm sunshine. The restaurant was closed for the evening but Alice and Lilian managed to whip a nice meal for us.
Tuesday 19th April – Triefenstein to Friedrichshafen
After the sunny day yesterday it turned out as expected to be another sub zero night. This morning I need to figure out how to lock the camper as it randomly decides not to auto lock. There is no central point for the key to lock all doors at once and the passenger side has no keyholes. The manual is not in English so I will have to try and find the right page and have Jens try and translate it. He could not find any clues in the manual so he placed a call to IMC and found out that if the back door latch is not in the right position then the doors will not lock. A couple of practice goes and eureka, the problem was solved.
It is another long drive again today but the majority of it will be on the highway. The scenery was still fantastic as we saw lots of small hamlets and rolling countryside that was interspersed with large towns. The nav lady led us astray a few times by taking us off the highway and running us through a town and then putting us back again on the same highway. At some part of the journey we clocked up our first 1000km but there was no band to trumpet that milestone. After coming in the backdoor to Friedrichshafen we eventually arrived at the park around 4:00pm.
We were allotted the last two sites and after setting up we explored our surroundings. The camper park has a frontage onto the Bodensee (Lake Constance) which is a huge body of water, I have not worked it out bit the shoreline must be well over 100km. Down on the foreshore there were lots of people sitting on logs watching the swans and other birdlife. The best view however was on the opposite side of the lake. Standing majestically on the other side and dwarfing the towns hugging the lake were the snowcapped Austrian and Swiss Alps. There is also a walking/bicycle trail which traverses the lake. After a quick walk we adjourned for some dinner at a local seafood restaurant. Of course I had a pizza and the others had a spaghetti marinara. They declared it the best they had ever eaten.
Wednesday 20th April – Friedrichshafen
Jens is not 100 percent so he is staying with the vans and will attempt to catch up on some paperwork. We decided to walk along the foreshore into the heart of the town for some local exploring. Even though the sun was shining the air had a nip in it. I was regretting not bringing a jacket with me. The walk into the harbor area took about 25 minutes. We were scanning the ferry departures and noticed one was leaving in 6 minutes. On a whim we decided to buy 3 return tickets (51euro) and head across the Bodensee to Romanshorn which is in Switzerland. The trip time across was 45 minutes so we decided to spend an hour over there prior to heading back. It turned out to be a good decision because we had an enjoyable walk along the promenade. The gardens were immaculate and the bright red tulips a standout. There was a beautiful old church and the houses are so different to what we are used to. The hour went so quick that we had to make sure we did not miss the next ferry departure.
When we alighted in Friedrichshafen we decided on a stroll along the lakeside promenade to the Schloss (palace). It has a beautiful panoramic view over Lake Constance and the Alps and is one of the longest promenades on the lake. The extensive port area has a maritime flair and numerous street cafes invite you to linger over wine, beer or perhaps coffee. At the halfway point Lilian decided that she was in need of some retail therapy. Alice and I continued on through the park to the Schloss. It is a magnificent building and started life as a monastery. It is not open to the public as it is the residence of Friedrich Herzog (Duke) von Wurrremberg. Now that was a mouthful. We were however able to visit the Schlosskirche (palace church). With its two 55m high domed towers made from Rordchach sandstone it is the landmark of Friedrichshafen. It was built by tom’s brother Chris Thumb from 1695 to 1701. It was partially destroyed by air raids in 1944 but was reconstructed after the war and returned to the protestant community. On our return through the park we took time to admire the monument to Count Zeppelin, the Zeppelin Brunnen (fountain) and some modern pieces of sculpture.
We met up again with Lilian and the girls decided to check out the shops. This gave me time to spend an hour at the Zeppelin Museum (9euro). On the ground floor there is a beautifully restored vintage Mercedes Benz. After a quick circuit of the automobile it was time to enter the reconstructed part of the LZ 129 Hindenburg in its original size, with authentically-fitted, walkable passenger areas. The passenger sleeping areas reminded me of some of the sleeping berths I have enjoyed on Asian trains. There are over 1500 exhibits in the museum and the major ones had English text which definitely helped me enjoy the experience. One of the more interesting pieces was the twisted remains of the Hindenburg’s aluminum superstructure.
After my tour of the museum I had a date with Alice down on the pier. We have decided to climb the 22m Aussichtsturm (viewpoint tower) and take in the views of the town with the castle church, the orchards in the background as well as a superb view of Lake Constance and the Alps. The only thing we forgot to do was to bring a lover’s lock to place with the many others. Down at the base again and we were off to meet Lilian to purchase some more supplies.
Back at the camper we finished our afternoon off by taking some sun over a couple of drinks.
Thursday 21st April – Three Countries
After settling our account which was 57euro for two nights we hit the road for Austria. The closer we got to the border the more stunning the Alps became. After an hour of driving we had to pull into a large area where we were required to pay a form of registration which allows us to drive on Austrian and Swiss roads for the next 12 months. At a cost of 47 euro and the promise of more tolls to come it hurt the hip pocket. With so many mountains the scenery was always spectacular. It also meant that we had to drive through many tunnels and the longest was about 15.5km. Just before the Austrian town of Innsbruck we stopped for a bite to eat.
After lunch it was time to head towards Italy which would be our third country for the day. We turned just before Innsbruck which we could see on our left and started heading up towards the Brenner Pass. After paying another toll of 9 euro we soon started to overhaul a copious number of heavily laden trucks. At 1374m we reached the top and sailed into Italy and the chance to collect some more tolls. The scenery is just as magnificent and there is still plenty of snow on the Italian Alps. We exited the motorway at Bolzano where we were greeted with a toll of 5.90euro. Our destination was only 10km away in the Dolomite mountains. The road was very windy and at times narrow. We arrived at our destination half an hour later and to our surprise and chagrin there was no camping ground. After some frantic consultation with the GPS we turned around and headed back down the mountain and onto the motorway back in the direction of Innsbruck. After 19km we turned off, paid a 2.20euro toll and followed the road back towards Bolzano. The countryside was full of grapevines, apple orchards and bicycle riders. Eventually we saw a sign that indicated that we were not far from the camping ground. Jens drove past one before settling on Gretl See campground which overlooked a beautiful lake. On the opposite shore there was a ruined castle perched high on a craggy mountain top. It is a great setting and at 25euro a night it is well worth it. The irony was that we could have been settled in 90 minutes earlier if not for our furphy with our original selection.
The whole area looks like a resort set up as there are hotels, restaurants and of course a mini-golf, pardon the pun course. The restaurants were not displaying any menus so the girls put together a cold meat salad with cheese. It was a fitting way to end what was a tiring but great day.
Friday 22nd April – Venice
Lilian went shopping down at the local mini-mart this morning for some necessary essentials. She was filling up her basket when one of the assistants asked her what she was doing. Just getting some water etc was her reply. The assistant said but we are not open. Lilian asked what time they opened and the unexpected reply was next week. Seems Lilian was helping them with their stocktaking. Jens is having trouble breathing at the moment and any physical exertion leaves him gasping for air. As a result we are going to continue on down to Venice and see what a difference the lower altitude and sea air makes.
After emptying all our excess grey water we hit the road at around 10:30am bound for Venice. The drive out to the motorway through the orchards was great. It made me think that it would have been good to stay here for a few days and travel around to the various vineyards on a bicycle. After topping up our tanks we headed back to the motorway which should be our fastest route to Venice. Our fastest route appears to be in the opposite to the shortest route as we are heading south towards Verona (Romeo, Romeo where for art thou Romeo) for nearly 200km and then east for another 100km to Venice. The majority of the route is on a 130kmph tollway which we are sharing with plenty of trucks. The highway seems to travel in a valley with the Dolomites standing tall on either side. Unfortunately, we cannot admire the scenery as everything is shrouded by haze. Lunch was taken in a parking lot wedged between a couple of large trucks. When we exited the tollway, I had no idea how much the toll would be. After inserting our ticket we were asked to pay 21.30euro.
A quick stop to purchase some supplies and we were on our way to our final destination. Our camping ground was recommended by IMC and is supposed to be basic but a reasonable price for Venice. The Don Bosco camp ground is located on the Lido which is a peninsula with a long stretch of sand on the outskirts of Venice. Our site is quite cramped and it took a lot of maneuvering t o get the vans in position. My first impression is that the park has quite a few permanent residents and if at home could be located at Oxley. The amenities block was a bit of a shock as it is all unisex. The shower stalls operate on a token but with a difference. It is based on volume (20 litres) and not time which means you have to turn it on and off in between soaping up. All this was a bit of a shock but I have to say that the female manager who was being worked off her feet with all the weekend arrivals managed to find time to help us with all of our enquiries.
After setting up I did a quick reconnaissance and found out the bus departure times for our trip into Venice and a restaurant for this evenings meal. We ended up having a great meal of stuffed zucchini flowers, pizza and local wine. One interesting point about the restaurants we have visited is that they all seem to have a no smoking policy however it seems that pets are allowed. At every meal someone brings in their dog to sit by the table. Back at the park we have settled back to utilize the free wi-fi. Alas the connection was good but we just cannot logon to any sites.
Saturday 23rd April – Public Transport, We Love It
This morning we are on the move and after a quick shower with Lilian and Alice (same shower block) we are nearly ready to travel into Venice. I purchased our combined return ticket (20.50euro) from reception and headed out to the bus stop. Whilst standing at the stop I had a nagging feeling that we were on the wrong side of the road as there were people waiting at the stop opposite. I ducked back into reception and was advised that we were indeed on the wrong side. So much for my previous afternoon research! About 5 minutes later bus number 2 showed up and delivered us to Lido Di Jesolo Bus Station where we transferred to bus number 5. The journey time to Punta Sabbioni Ferry Terminal was another 37 minutes. From here we took the ferry into San Marco pier, Venice. The total trip time including transfers was around 90 minutes. In between all of this travel the heavens opened up and Alice cringed as the lightning lit up the sky and the thunder boomed. Just as we arrived Venice the rain fortunately stopped.
We walked along the Grand Canal and just soaked up the atmosphere. Even in this gloomy weather there were hordes of people walking around. The queues for the more popular sites were quite long. We joined the very long queue for the San Marco Basilica and waited patiently. There were plenty of different accents with French, British and Americans seeming more predominant. The queue was moving quite quickly and as we neared the entrance the line was stopped. The staff were erecting a raised pathway for what we thought were visiting dignitaries. Turned out that it was a precaution in case the square flooded on the high tide. When we reached the entrance I was refused entry as I was carrying a backpack. The girls went in and thought it was amazing.
Afterwards we strolled around the square people and store watching. The diners that were eating out in the open were being attended to by immaculately dressed waiters while listening to live performances of light classical music. Leaving the square we took some of the narrow alleys and found a small eatery serving simple sandwiches and dispensing great coffee. It appeared that it was popular with the locals as plenty of them were eating at the stand up counter and having a hit of expresso. Feeling refreshed we wandered around and visited some churches and the Rialto Bridge. We couldn’t see much from the bridge as it was being renovated. It did however provide some excitement as I was nearly knocked over by a young man who sprinted through the crowd. He had just stolen something and was making his getaway. It all happened very quickly. Soon after the police turned up in their boat and three them sprinted of in the direction of where the offender was last seen. The girls were not perturbed by this event and spent their time looking in shop windows as we made our way slowly back to the main square.
On a whim Alice and I decided that we would like to spend Sunday night in Venice. To accomplish this I needed to find a Wi Fi hotspot which actually worked. Whilst the girls enjoyed a wine in one of the many restaurants I eventually found a good zone where I could actually download a site. After about 10 minutes I booked a room at the Ca La Bricola 2 which is about 80 metres from Piazza San Marco. I won’t tell you the cost but location, location, location. The girls tracked me down and we slowly made our way over the Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri) to the ferry terminal. The trip back to the campground was without incident and quite relaxing.
The campground is a little damp after the morning rain and it appears they copped a lot more than we did. After a couple of pre-dinner drinks it was back to the Pizza restaurant for some more fine Italian food and wine in the company of dogs. Jens has also advised that the forecast for tomorrow is lots of rain and maybe clearing in the evening.
Friday, May 13, 2016
Smorebord Day
Sunday 10th April – Smorebord Day
Jytte has been hard at work today as she is preparing all the ingredients and condiments that will make up a traditional Danish lunch of open sandwiches known as Smorebrod. There is smoked eel, a range of differently cured herring, pancakes with fish eggs, meats and tomato to name a few. Amidst all this preparation Jens, Alice and I bailed and went on a little road trip. Our first port of call was the seaside village of Havnso which is known for its production of apples. There were a number of large orchards but at this time of the season the trees were bereft of fruit. At the harbor which overlooks a nearby island locals were doing summer maintenance on a range of watercraft. A few of the campgrounds had an influx of locals taking advantage of the warm weekend weather which had climbed to a staggering 12 degrees. We continued travelling down country lanes which meandered in and around the farm holdings. We stopped at a picturesque folk high school at Vallekilde. The school is supposed to be the second oldest in Denmark and they are proponents of the Rudolph Steiner method of teaching. The school was founded in 1865 by the theologian Ernst Trier who worked in the tradition of N.E.S. Grundtvig who is seen as the spiritual figure behind the many folk high schools that were founded in Denmark during the second part of the 19th and the 20th century.The high school which in Danish is known as gymnasium is accommodated in a beautiful brick building and also has a church adjacent to the grounds.
Back in Ordrup it was time to commence the feasting. After the initial tasting washed down with an icy cool Tuborg it was time for the first “skol” of the afternoon. Our fiery but smooth drink was a Lysholm Linie Aquavit which is a product of Norway. Its claim to fame is that it is matured in oak sherry casks and then sailed to the other side of the world and back again. Twice across the equator has resulted in an aquavit that is a perfect balance of spices and oak aromas. Oh! What a dangerous combination. In between eating we were watching the Paris to Roubaix which is a grueling cycling race. By the way the winner who crossed the line half a wheel in front was an Aussie named Matt Hayman.
We finished off our day with the last handball qualifying match. It was another exciting game and Denmark is off to the Olympics in Rio. They did not have it all their own way and were given a hard match by the tournament minnows Bahrain.
Monday 11th April – Copenhagen
It really is a spring climate with the sun is shining and not a cloud in the sky. The trees are starting to show the first buds of green. We are heading south east today for some retail therapy in Copenhagen. Prior to hitting the shops Jens dropped us at Amalienborg Castles the home of the Danish royal family. It consists of four identical classical palace façades with rococo interiors around an octagonal courtyard. We were a little early for the changing of the guard but nevertheless the sentries looked immaculate in their uniforms. Just west of the castle is the imposing Frederick’s Church. It is popularly known as the Marble Church for its rocco architecture. Frederick's Church has the largest church dome in Scandinavia with a span of 31m. The dome rests on 12 columns.
Jens found a parking spot in one of the popular department stores and the girls headed off down the Strøget. It is Copenhagen's main artery and one of Europe's longest pedestrian streets with a wealth of design shops and international flagship stores. I don’t think they will have any trouble finding something to purchase. Jens and I took up residence on a seat in one of the squares and engaged in some people watching. Keeping us company in the square which was adjacent to City Hall was the equestrian statue of Absalom. There were plenty of Danes taking advantage of the sunny weather and it was difficult to find a spare seat to have a cup of coffee.
The girls finally made contact so we headed back to the car-park to await their arrival. They soon arrived and had plenty to show for their shopping experience. Jens ever the tour guide patiently drove us through the peak hour traffic and made a slight detour to show us where Alice and Lilian’s father Bent used to live. We arrived back in Ordrup at 6:00pm which gave us just enough time to have a pre-dinner ale. Tonight we are tackling the all you can eat dinner at the local restaurant. For DKK99 ($20) you can fill up on roast pork, baby boiled potatoes and pickled beetroot with a parsley white sauce. The food could have been a little hotter but was still delicious. As I started on my third plate, they were small servings, I could almost feel my arteries hardening. To end what was an excellent day we were entertained by a young deer that was rummaging around the backyard.
Tuesday 12th April – Local Tour
No breakfast for me this morning as I am still full from last night’s meal. What a difference a day makes, today the sun has decided to hide behind the clouds and the temperature has dropped to a cool 7 degrees. In an effort to shed some of my expanding girth I took a long walk around the neighbourhood. Apart from the main thoroughfares the streets are mostly gravel and lined by huge pine trees. Most of the summer houses are empty and apart from the occasional staccato burst of a chainsaw in the distance it is serenely quiet.
When I returned everyone was ready for a drive around the northern district of Zealand. Our first visit was to one of Denmark’s oldest castles called Dragsholm. We had a look at the old stables but did not venture inside as we could not afford the accommodation rates or the price of a meal at the Michelin rated restaurant. From here we headed up to one of Jens’ favourite lookout spots at Veddinge. It houses a communications tower but the view over the surrounding farmland and Victory Bay is excellent. In a paddock adjacent to the tower there was a small herd of Icelandic Horses frolicking about. With their peculiar gait and shaggy coats they are a sight to behold.
Jens was travelling via all the country byways which brought us down onto Lyngvej. This road runs parallel to a beautiful stretch of beach and is home to many summer houses. In the middle of nowhere we stopped at a location named Dutterhoje. This is part of a series of burial mounds from ancient times. They date back to the late bronze age between 3800 and 3000BC. The grassy mounds were quite high and were covered with wildflowers and daffodils. From here we travelled through Hojby, Nyrup and Klint which is on the eastern coastline and nestled on the edge of Nyrup Bay. One of the things you could do in Klint would be to enroll in a course offered by the Martinus Institute. www.martinus.dk
Martinus Institut
www.martinus.dk
Martinus Institut, Danmark
They preach a third testament in what is supposed to be a logical and scientific way to analyse the living universe makeing it probable that an eternal, all-loving God exists, a God that has always been the source of religions and spiritual life. Martinus also shows how our consciousness, psyche and morality evolve through reincarnation and karma according to natural laws that in the course of time result in all experiences, both pleasant and unpleasant, benefitting the individual. With a doctrine like this how could you refuse a couple of weeks in a summer house on the Danish coastline. We were more interested in the small harbor and the area of Klintebjerg which had outstanding views of the sea.
Before heading home we dropped into Rorvig which had a great harbor for sailing boats and a new Aldi store. I had to constrain myself from checking out the weekly specials. On the harbor itself there were a lot of new apartments which overlooked the water. The design of the buildings was very Danish and seemed in harmony with the landscape and the sea. Our last stop was at a bedding store to purchase a double sheet for our citycamper.
Wednesday 13th April – Lazy Day
The weather is still overcast which makes even going for a walk seem like a chore. Jytte has given me a couple of small tasks to keep me busy. This entailed Jens and I taking a drive to the local hardware store in Horve to purchase a couple of items. Back at home I tackled my chores with enthusiasm and completed them to Jytte’s satisfaction.
With the day drawing to an end it was time to uncap a bottle of Seattle American coffee stout from the Thisted Brewery. I thought it was okay but the others gave it a thumbs down. Not to be deterred I followed up with a tall bottle of Jacobsen Brown Ale which admittedly did taste better. It also went well with the roast beef dinner that Alice and Lilian had prepared.
Thursday 14th April – Packing Day
Once again the weather is still overcast and looks like it will remain this way for the next few days. It doesn’t seem to worry the birds as there are plenty around the bird feeder in the backyard. My favourites are the brightly colored woodpecker and pheasant. On the lawn the apples that Lilian had thrown out for the deer remain untouched. They might be feeling a little skittish with all the Aussies in the household. The only good thing about the weather is that it is perfect for packing our bags in readiness of the road-trip that begins tomorrow.
After finishing my morning chores I finally packed my bags. To celebrate this momentous event I undertook to partake in some excise. To put it mildly, it nearly killed me. Alice and I decided to brave the bitingly cold wind and took a walk down to the beach. Out on the local jetty the water which wasn’t very deep was crystal clear. It looked inviting but when I dipped my hand it was like dipping ice-cream into chocolate. The water just about froze on my hands. The walk itself was pleasant as once again all we could hear was the chirping of the birds and the wind in the tress.
Back at home Jytte prepared the Danish version of Bubble and Squeak which is known as Biksemad Med Spejlaeg. It was delicious and went well with the schnapps and bottle of Willemores Porter. At 8.5 percent and with a colour as black as the ace of spades it has a taste that is rich and earthy. The girls are playing game of competitive Ludo which is laced with a French Riesling. Alice cannot throw a six and is being thrashed by Jytte and Lilian. Ah well it is a good way to end the night.
Jytte has been hard at work today as she is preparing all the ingredients and condiments that will make up a traditional Danish lunch of open sandwiches known as Smorebrod. There is smoked eel, a range of differently cured herring, pancakes with fish eggs, meats and tomato to name a few. Amidst all this preparation Jens, Alice and I bailed and went on a little road trip. Our first port of call was the seaside village of Havnso which is known for its production of apples. There were a number of large orchards but at this time of the season the trees were bereft of fruit. At the harbor which overlooks a nearby island locals were doing summer maintenance on a range of watercraft. A few of the campgrounds had an influx of locals taking advantage of the warm weekend weather which had climbed to a staggering 12 degrees. We continued travelling down country lanes which meandered in and around the farm holdings. We stopped at a picturesque folk high school at Vallekilde. The school is supposed to be the second oldest in Denmark and they are proponents of the Rudolph Steiner method of teaching. The school was founded in 1865 by the theologian Ernst Trier who worked in the tradition of N.E.S. Grundtvig who is seen as the spiritual figure behind the many folk high schools that were founded in Denmark during the second part of the 19th and the 20th century.The high school which in Danish is known as gymnasium is accommodated in a beautiful brick building and also has a church adjacent to the grounds.
Back in Ordrup it was time to commence the feasting. After the initial tasting washed down with an icy cool Tuborg it was time for the first “skol” of the afternoon. Our fiery but smooth drink was a Lysholm Linie Aquavit which is a product of Norway. Its claim to fame is that it is matured in oak sherry casks and then sailed to the other side of the world and back again. Twice across the equator has resulted in an aquavit that is a perfect balance of spices and oak aromas. Oh! What a dangerous combination. In between eating we were watching the Paris to Roubaix which is a grueling cycling race. By the way the winner who crossed the line half a wheel in front was an Aussie named Matt Hayman.
We finished off our day with the last handball qualifying match. It was another exciting game and Denmark is off to the Olympics in Rio. They did not have it all their own way and were given a hard match by the tournament minnows Bahrain.
Monday 11th April – Copenhagen
It really is a spring climate with the sun is shining and not a cloud in the sky. The trees are starting to show the first buds of green. We are heading south east today for some retail therapy in Copenhagen. Prior to hitting the shops Jens dropped us at Amalienborg Castles the home of the Danish royal family. It consists of four identical classical palace façades with rococo interiors around an octagonal courtyard. We were a little early for the changing of the guard but nevertheless the sentries looked immaculate in their uniforms. Just west of the castle is the imposing Frederick’s Church. It is popularly known as the Marble Church for its rocco architecture. Frederick's Church has the largest church dome in Scandinavia with a span of 31m. The dome rests on 12 columns.
Jens found a parking spot in one of the popular department stores and the girls headed off down the Strøget. It is Copenhagen's main artery and one of Europe's longest pedestrian streets with a wealth of design shops and international flagship stores. I don’t think they will have any trouble finding something to purchase. Jens and I took up residence on a seat in one of the squares and engaged in some people watching. Keeping us company in the square which was adjacent to City Hall was the equestrian statue of Absalom. There were plenty of Danes taking advantage of the sunny weather and it was difficult to find a spare seat to have a cup of coffee.
The girls finally made contact so we headed back to the car-park to await their arrival. They soon arrived and had plenty to show for their shopping experience. Jens ever the tour guide patiently drove us through the peak hour traffic and made a slight detour to show us where Alice and Lilian’s father Bent used to live. We arrived back in Ordrup at 6:00pm which gave us just enough time to have a pre-dinner ale. Tonight we are tackling the all you can eat dinner at the local restaurant. For DKK99 ($20) you can fill up on roast pork, baby boiled potatoes and pickled beetroot with a parsley white sauce. The food could have been a little hotter but was still delicious. As I started on my third plate, they were small servings, I could almost feel my arteries hardening. To end what was an excellent day we were entertained by a young deer that was rummaging around the backyard.
Tuesday 12th April – Local Tour
No breakfast for me this morning as I am still full from last night’s meal. What a difference a day makes, today the sun has decided to hide behind the clouds and the temperature has dropped to a cool 7 degrees. In an effort to shed some of my expanding girth I took a long walk around the neighbourhood. Apart from the main thoroughfares the streets are mostly gravel and lined by huge pine trees. Most of the summer houses are empty and apart from the occasional staccato burst of a chainsaw in the distance it is serenely quiet.
When I returned everyone was ready for a drive around the northern district of Zealand. Our first visit was to one of Denmark’s oldest castles called Dragsholm. We had a look at the old stables but did not venture inside as we could not afford the accommodation rates or the price of a meal at the Michelin rated restaurant. From here we headed up to one of Jens’ favourite lookout spots at Veddinge. It houses a communications tower but the view over the surrounding farmland and Victory Bay is excellent. In a paddock adjacent to the tower there was a small herd of Icelandic Horses frolicking about. With their peculiar gait and shaggy coats they are a sight to behold.
Jens was travelling via all the country byways which brought us down onto Lyngvej. This road runs parallel to a beautiful stretch of beach and is home to many summer houses. In the middle of nowhere we stopped at a location named Dutterhoje. This is part of a series of burial mounds from ancient times. They date back to the late bronze age between 3800 and 3000BC. The grassy mounds were quite high and were covered with wildflowers and daffodils. From here we travelled through Hojby, Nyrup and Klint which is on the eastern coastline and nestled on the edge of Nyrup Bay. One of the things you could do in Klint would be to enroll in a course offered by the Martinus Institute. www.martinus.dk
Martinus Institut
www.martinus.dk
Martinus Institut, Danmark
They preach a third testament in what is supposed to be a logical and scientific way to analyse the living universe makeing it probable that an eternal, all-loving God exists, a God that has always been the source of religions and spiritual life. Martinus also shows how our consciousness, psyche and morality evolve through reincarnation and karma according to natural laws that in the course of time result in all experiences, both pleasant and unpleasant, benefitting the individual. With a doctrine like this how could you refuse a couple of weeks in a summer house on the Danish coastline. We were more interested in the small harbor and the area of Klintebjerg which had outstanding views of the sea.
Before heading home we dropped into Rorvig which had a great harbor for sailing boats and a new Aldi store. I had to constrain myself from checking out the weekly specials. On the harbor itself there were a lot of new apartments which overlooked the water. The design of the buildings was very Danish and seemed in harmony with the landscape and the sea. Our last stop was at a bedding store to purchase a double sheet for our citycamper.
Wednesday 13th April – Lazy Day
The weather is still overcast which makes even going for a walk seem like a chore. Jytte has given me a couple of small tasks to keep me busy. This entailed Jens and I taking a drive to the local hardware store in Horve to purchase a couple of items. Back at home I tackled my chores with enthusiasm and completed them to Jytte’s satisfaction.
With the day drawing to an end it was time to uncap a bottle of Seattle American coffee stout from the Thisted Brewery. I thought it was okay but the others gave it a thumbs down. Not to be deterred I followed up with a tall bottle of Jacobsen Brown Ale which admittedly did taste better. It also went well with the roast beef dinner that Alice and Lilian had prepared.
Thursday 14th April – Packing Day
Once again the weather is still overcast and looks like it will remain this way for the next few days. It doesn’t seem to worry the birds as there are plenty around the bird feeder in the backyard. My favourites are the brightly colored woodpecker and pheasant. On the lawn the apples that Lilian had thrown out for the deer remain untouched. They might be feeling a little skittish with all the Aussies in the household. The only good thing about the weather is that it is perfect for packing our bags in readiness of the road-trip that begins tomorrow.
After finishing my morning chores I finally packed my bags. To celebrate this momentous event I undertook to partake in some excise. To put it mildly, it nearly killed me. Alice and I decided to brave the bitingly cold wind and took a walk down to the beach. Out on the local jetty the water which wasn’t very deep was crystal clear. It looked inviting but when I dipped my hand it was like dipping ice-cream into chocolate. The water just about froze on my hands. The walk itself was pleasant as once again all we could hear was the chirping of the birds and the wind in the tress.
Back at home Jytte prepared the Danish version of Bubble and Squeak which is known as Biksemad Med Spejlaeg. It was delicious and went well with the schnapps and bottle of Willemores Porter. At 8.5 percent and with a colour as black as the ace of spades it has a taste that is rich and earthy. The girls are playing game of competitive Ludo which is laced with a French Riesling. Alice cannot throw a six and is being thrashed by Jytte and Lilian. Ah well it is a good way to end the night.
Happy Anniversary
Thursday 7th April – Aalborg and Happy Anniversary
I woke up this morning feeling relaxed and excited. The excitement does not stem from the bright blue sky and the light flooding our bedroom. No, it is the day that changed my life when I first laid eyes on Alice 16 years ago. Wow, what a ride and it keeps on getting better. Well that is enough sentimentality for the moment as we come back to reality as it is time to prepare our clothes for the laundry.
Well I’m glad I did not go off on the washing trip as Lilian came back all battered and bruised. They were taking a shortcut through a construction site when she slipped and came down hard on her hip and at the same time grazing her knee and hand. Luckily there was no other damage but she is a little shaken and sore as a result of this incident.
After lunch she was feeling a little better so Joan took us for a drive across the fjord to visit Lindholm Hoje. It is one of the most notable ancient monuments in Denmark and was in use as a burial site from AD 400 to AD 1000. The oldest graves are at the top of the hill and a few skeletons from the site are on display in the museum. Most of the graves are cremation graves, where the deceased person was cremated at the grave site. The site has also uncovered a newly ploughed field that was buried under a metre of sand. Parts of a large village with wells, longhouses and pit houses have also been excavated. The attached museum shows what the village looked like over the ages, how its inhabitants dressed, how they cultivated the soil and which animals they kept. The exhibition is not huge but it is well laid out.
We finished off with a coffee and homemade bread with cheese. The chef was an amiable gentleman with a portly paunch and a booming laugh. A few hundred years earlier he could have passed for a Viking. He did tell us that the bread was made from old grains with stinging nettle the secret ingredient. He dries the nettle and then crumbles it into various dishes such as pasta and omelets. It would make an interesting recipe book. Apparently, he has also been a guest on one of Jamie Oliver’s cooking show.
Dinner tonight was a baked salmon and spinach lasagna with wine and a large bottle of Leffe Bruin.
Friday 8th April – All Aboard the 888 Bus to Vig Station
This morning it is just a matter of having a leisurely breakfast and folding yesterday’s washing. After lunch Joan drove us down to the Aalborg bus station so we could check on the departure status of the 888 bus. Once we had confirmed the location of our bus we took a leisurely stroll across the railway tracks to Aalborg's beautiful city park, Kildeparken. This park is unusual because since the mid-80s major celebrities have left living reminders of their visits by planting a tree. Sir Cliff Richard planted the first tree before he gave his concert in Aalborg Culture Centre as a reminder of his visit to the city. Since then the spade has been swung no less than 76 times when prominent guests have stuck the spade into the ground, and planted their tree in Kildeparken. At each tree planted by the artists or their representative, there will be music. A stand by the tree contains a little medley of the artist's most famous music which is activated by pressing a button. Among the 76 stars are Stevie Wonder, Guns ‘N' Roses, John Cleese, Dame Edna, Sting and James Blunt.
After visiting the park it was back to the bus terminal for our 15:00 departure on the 888. We left dead on time and were soon travelling south along the old highway towards Aarhus. There were only two stops prior to Aarhus where we picked up a handful of passengers to add to the five that departed Aalborg. The vista was once again superb but the outside temperature was a chilly 8 degrees. Alice and Lilian played a game called spot the resident in the yard. In 100 km they only saw a handful. Just after 5:15pm we hit the outskirts of Aarhus which is the second largest City in Denmark. At the bus station we just about filled the bus with passengers who wanted to travel to Zeeland. After we finished loading it was a short drive to the port where the bus joined a huge multitude of vehicles that were being driven onto the huge high-speed catamaran that would convey us all across the Kattegat. Once on board we disembarked from the bus and made our way up to the top deck restaurant. The seating area was quite crowded but we managed to steal the bus drivers reserved seat. After settling in we bought ourselves a Danish hotdog which we washed down with beer and wine. The journey across was very smooth and only took 70 minutes. Thirty five minutes later we disembarked in the middle of nowhere at Vig Station. Luckily for us it is still light and we did not have long to wait before Jens pulled up to convey us back to Ordrup which is only 15 minutes away.
Tonight there was no doubt what we would be watching on television. Denmark was playing Croatia in handball for an eventual berth in the Olympics. With 30 minutes each way of non-stop action it was highly entertaining. Denmark was the eventual winner and is now one step closer to the Olympic dream. If you have never seen a game, try watching one on you-tube. By the-way Australia has a handball team.
Saturday 9th April – Ordrup
After the excitement of last night’s game I had no trouble sleeping. In fact for the first time in eons I was able to sleep-in until after 7:00am. The sun is shining and the wind has abated which makes it absolutely balmy outside. I am in my shorts and t-shirt and getting around like it is a summer’s day. Jytte has organized me to help prepare the house for summer. It is time to dust off the patio and all the associated furniture. We even wheeled out the Webber so it would be ready for tonight’s feast.
After lunch Alice and I took a long walk. We headed off along the gravel laneways, past the many summer houses and eventually down a pedestrian pathway to the beach. There were quite a few people out and about taking advantage of the sunny weather. The water temperature is still very cold but down by the jetty there were squeals of delight or was that anguish as a number of young children leapt into the icy brine. Alice and I decided that it was more sensible to enjoy our walk in the sun than to participate in such frivolity.
Back at the summer house we took some more sun as Jytte prepared the ingredients for this evening’s meal. With my church jacket on I was in charge of the Webber and soon had it fired up and ready to accept tonight’s offering of mince patties (hamburger rissoles). With our rissoles cooked and the bread rolls heated it was time to get stuck into the meal. An added extra that I have not seen before was a Heinz product called Hamburger dressing. The ingredients had all the essential produce, including sugar that you would normally include with your burger. With dinner over it was time to watch the next Olympic qualifying handball game between Denmark and Norway. It was another exciting match and Norway led for most of the game. A late surge in the second half saw Denmark level the scores at 25 -25. They had a chance on full-time to snatch victory but their number one player (Hansen) could not convert. Denmark has to play Bahrain tomorrow.
I woke up this morning feeling relaxed and excited. The excitement does not stem from the bright blue sky and the light flooding our bedroom. No, it is the day that changed my life when I first laid eyes on Alice 16 years ago. Wow, what a ride and it keeps on getting better. Well that is enough sentimentality for the moment as we come back to reality as it is time to prepare our clothes for the laundry.
Well I’m glad I did not go off on the washing trip as Lilian came back all battered and bruised. They were taking a shortcut through a construction site when she slipped and came down hard on her hip and at the same time grazing her knee and hand. Luckily there was no other damage but she is a little shaken and sore as a result of this incident.
After lunch she was feeling a little better so Joan took us for a drive across the fjord to visit Lindholm Hoje. It is one of the most notable ancient monuments in Denmark and was in use as a burial site from AD 400 to AD 1000. The oldest graves are at the top of the hill and a few skeletons from the site are on display in the museum. Most of the graves are cremation graves, where the deceased person was cremated at the grave site. The site has also uncovered a newly ploughed field that was buried under a metre of sand. Parts of a large village with wells, longhouses and pit houses have also been excavated. The attached museum shows what the village looked like over the ages, how its inhabitants dressed, how they cultivated the soil and which animals they kept. The exhibition is not huge but it is well laid out.
We finished off with a coffee and homemade bread with cheese. The chef was an amiable gentleman with a portly paunch and a booming laugh. A few hundred years earlier he could have passed for a Viking. He did tell us that the bread was made from old grains with stinging nettle the secret ingredient. He dries the nettle and then crumbles it into various dishes such as pasta and omelets. It would make an interesting recipe book. Apparently, he has also been a guest on one of Jamie Oliver’s cooking show.
Dinner tonight was a baked salmon and spinach lasagna with wine and a large bottle of Leffe Bruin.
Friday 8th April – All Aboard the 888 Bus to Vig Station
This morning it is just a matter of having a leisurely breakfast and folding yesterday’s washing. After lunch Joan drove us down to the Aalborg bus station so we could check on the departure status of the 888 bus. Once we had confirmed the location of our bus we took a leisurely stroll across the railway tracks to Aalborg's beautiful city park, Kildeparken. This park is unusual because since the mid-80s major celebrities have left living reminders of their visits by planting a tree. Sir Cliff Richard planted the first tree before he gave his concert in Aalborg Culture Centre as a reminder of his visit to the city. Since then the spade has been swung no less than 76 times when prominent guests have stuck the spade into the ground, and planted their tree in Kildeparken. At each tree planted by the artists or their representative, there will be music. A stand by the tree contains a little medley of the artist's most famous music which is activated by pressing a button. Among the 76 stars are Stevie Wonder, Guns ‘N' Roses, John Cleese, Dame Edna, Sting and James Blunt.
After visiting the park it was back to the bus terminal for our 15:00 departure on the 888. We left dead on time and were soon travelling south along the old highway towards Aarhus. There were only two stops prior to Aarhus where we picked up a handful of passengers to add to the five that departed Aalborg. The vista was once again superb but the outside temperature was a chilly 8 degrees. Alice and Lilian played a game called spot the resident in the yard. In 100 km they only saw a handful. Just after 5:15pm we hit the outskirts of Aarhus which is the second largest City in Denmark. At the bus station we just about filled the bus with passengers who wanted to travel to Zeeland. After we finished loading it was a short drive to the port where the bus joined a huge multitude of vehicles that were being driven onto the huge high-speed catamaran that would convey us all across the Kattegat. Once on board we disembarked from the bus and made our way up to the top deck restaurant. The seating area was quite crowded but we managed to steal the bus drivers reserved seat. After settling in we bought ourselves a Danish hotdog which we washed down with beer and wine. The journey across was very smooth and only took 70 minutes. Thirty five minutes later we disembarked in the middle of nowhere at Vig Station. Luckily for us it is still light and we did not have long to wait before Jens pulled up to convey us back to Ordrup which is only 15 minutes away.
Tonight there was no doubt what we would be watching on television. Denmark was playing Croatia in handball for an eventual berth in the Olympics. With 30 minutes each way of non-stop action it was highly entertaining. Denmark was the eventual winner and is now one step closer to the Olympic dream. If you have never seen a game, try watching one on you-tube. By the-way Australia has a handball team.
Saturday 9th April – Ordrup
After the excitement of last night’s game I had no trouble sleeping. In fact for the first time in eons I was able to sleep-in until after 7:00am. The sun is shining and the wind has abated which makes it absolutely balmy outside. I am in my shorts and t-shirt and getting around like it is a summer’s day. Jytte has organized me to help prepare the house for summer. It is time to dust off the patio and all the associated furniture. We even wheeled out the Webber so it would be ready for tonight’s feast.
After lunch Alice and I took a long walk. We headed off along the gravel laneways, past the many summer houses and eventually down a pedestrian pathway to the beach. There were quite a few people out and about taking advantage of the sunny weather. The water temperature is still very cold but down by the jetty there were squeals of delight or was that anguish as a number of young children leapt into the icy brine. Alice and I decided that it was more sensible to enjoy our walk in the sun than to participate in such frivolity.
Back at the summer house we took some more sun as Jytte prepared the ingredients for this evening’s meal. With my church jacket on I was in charge of the Webber and soon had it fired up and ready to accept tonight’s offering of mince patties (hamburger rissoles). With our rissoles cooked and the bread rolls heated it was time to get stuck into the meal. An added extra that I have not seen before was a Heinz product called Hamburger dressing. The ingredients had all the essential produce, including sugar that you would normally include with your burger. With dinner over it was time to watch the next Olympic qualifying handball game between Denmark and Norway. It was another exciting match and Norway led for most of the game. A late surge in the second half saw Denmark level the scores at 25 -25. They had a chance on full-time to snatch victory but their number one player (Hansen) could not convert. Denmark has to play Bahrain tomorrow.
Denmarkable
Saturday 2nd April – Ordrup to Soro
Another excellent sleep last night so I believe that my patterns are back in synchronization. A relaxing morning in Ordrup which was spent surfing the net for a reasonably priced battery for my Asus netbook. After about five years of world travel the old battery is finally on its last legs. Like me it is finding it difficult to hold a charge. As usual the cheapest ones are from China but I don’t have the luxury of being able to wait for a delivery. Enough rambling about batteries I finally found one in Denmark for about $75.
After lunch Jens packed us into the BMW to convey us to Soro where we will spend two nights with Alice and Lilian’s cousin, once removed Helle. Jens avoided the main highway and took us the scenic route through coastal towns and farmland. Along the way we passed Denmark’s oldest inn Bromølle Kro which has been in service since 1198 in the 12th century. Hard to believe something has been in operation long before America and Australia was opened to white settlement.
It is a sad day in Denmark as there is a state funeral for their former prime minister, Anker Jorgensen who passed away at the age of 93. The funeral was televised on national television and I gather that he was well revered. From a family perspective this funeral touched it as one of the pall bearers Lissa is related to Alice’s family. She was the prime minister’s personal secretary and for many years has visited and cared for him. I can’t imagine how difficult the last couple of weeks have been for her. Hopefully, she will be up for a visit to Soro tomorrow.
We arrived at Soro which is a small town bordered by a large lake. There is a large church, quaint shops with a cobbled street running past the main square and church. It was a pleasure to reacquaint ourselves with Jon who appears to be getting younger and to finally meet Helle and their two gorgeous daughters Sophie and Emma. They have a beautiful large house with a backyard that is larger than the combined area of our Milton and Currimundi abodes. The rear of the house overlooks the lake and is separated only by the walking trail that circumnavigates the lake. After coffee we all took a short walk along the foreshore which culminated at the old private school. Some of the out-buildings must be well over a hundred years old. Judging by the photographs on the wall of the local kayak club there are some really big fish that inhabit the lake.
Back at the house Jon plied me with some exotic craft beers and the girls enjoyed a couple of wines. As I watched Jon prepare the evening meal I thought that he could get a gig on Masterchef. He works with great speed and purpose whilst listening to the top 500 heavy metal tracks. He prepared a great meal of baked Atlantic Salmon with a sauce that was to die for. For the record and our later use I think the sauce was constructed as follows.
· Finely chopped red onion, sautéed in olive oil with some salt and pepper.
· When softened add a good drop of white wine and a touch of chicken stock
· Stir, reduce and add a little more wine and season to taste
· To finish stir in some cream and slightly reduce
· Pour generously over the Salmon
An amazing dinner, a couple of beers and wines and it was off to bed.
Sunday 3rd April - Soro
This morning was a leisurely affair as we grazed over a sumptuous breakfast. Lilian has decided to say in with Emma and wait for Lissa’s arrival. The rest of us however are going to tackle the 9km lake circuit. It is perfect walking weather as it is still cool and not too many clouds. I was amazed to see plenty of joggers, bicycle riders and a few elderly people out and about. The Danes appear to be a very energetic nation. The deciduous trees are still without leaves so we still get some sunshine penetrating what would be otherwise a very thick canopy. At various intervals there are small jetties protruding out onto the lake which gives you another perspective on how large this body of water is. When we were about two thirds into our journey I could feel a code yellow coming on. Not knowing the Danish etiquette for peeing in nature I sucked in my stomach muscles, lengthened my stride and headed for the town centre for some relief. With that business taken care of we rejoined the trail and finished off the walk which took a little over two hours.
When we arrived Lissa was there and you could tell that she was emotionally worn out from the funeral. Nevertheless she is a trooper and it was good to be able to spend time with her. Prior to lunch Jon and I spent some time with the girls practicing our ski jumping on the Wi machine (don’t know if I spelt that correctly). Needless to say that the girls were far better than me at this extreme sport. Another delicious lunch was followed by some quiet time and the news that the West Indies had just won the 20-20 world cup in spectacular fashion.
With the sun not going down until about 7:30pm it is easy to forget when dinner should be prepared. Luckily, we have Jon to think for us as he has once again jumped into dynamic action and whipped up some nachos and Mexican fajitas with all the accompaniments. He certainly has some skills and once again it was a sensory delight. No heavy drinking tonight as the non-travellers have to work and go off to school.
Monday 4th April – Soro to Aalborg
I managed to get up early as I wanted to say goodbye to Jon and the girls. Our Aussie kids get it easy as Sophie and Emma both have to be at school for an 8:00am start. Helle is working from home and has graciously given up her time to drive us to the station. We had a terrific time in Soro and Jon and Helle could not have been more hospitable. I hope that they will make the big trip down under as we would love to spend some more time with them.
Helle ensured that we were on the right train and the correct carriage for our 10:50 departure to Aalborg. Was the smile on her face one of joy for having met us or the fact that they are finally getting their house back after back to back visitors. I think it was for having met us. The trip to Aalborg is a little over 350km and takes just four hours on the intercity express train. With a little help from Joan who is Helle’s mum I managed to purchase our tickets on-line prior to leaving home. The cost of this internet booking was around $37.
Once on board we were seated in a 2x2 configuration and shared our area with a gentleman of Eastern European persuasion. Lilian ever the pessimist was glad that he was not carrying a backpack. I think that he may have been Turkish. He slept for most of the trip as there is plenty of legroom and the seats are very comfortable. After about twenty minutes of travel through the panoramic countryside the train dipped into a long tunnel before emerging onto what was the longest rail bridge in the world. The bridge itself connects the Danish islands of Zeeland where the capital Copenhagen is located to the island of Fyn. The main city on Fyn is Odense which was the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen. Our journey continued onwards and within the next hour we crossed a fjord which brought us onto mainland Europe and the area of Jutland. In between towns with quaint names such as Middelfart and Hobro the countryside was dotted with farms.
At the major town of Aarhus which is Denmark’s second largest city we thought we had to change trains to catch the InterCity 337. With a little help from a Danish lady we discerned that all we had to do was change carriages. The train departed on time and 90 minutes later we pulled into Aalborg at 14:50. When we alighted our grand cousin Joan was waiting for us. In no time Joan had us comfortably seated in her Renault Clio and ready to begin another leg of our European vacation. It is always a pleasure staying with relatives like her as she has gone out of her way to make our stay memorable. For instance she has given up her bed for Alice and me and also gone to the trouble of preparing a welcome kit for the three of us. Dinner tonight was delicious slices of roasted ham with creamy baked potato and salad. For yours truly there were even icy cans of Tuborg beer.
Tuesday 5th April – Toppen af Danmark (Top of Denmark)
After a leisurely breakfast of rye bread with cheese, muesli with yogurt, coffee and Danish pastries it was time to hit the road for the top of Denmark. Our route took us across the Limfjorden to Norresundby and then along route 55 to the west coast. This section of Denmark is still part of Jutland but it is an island which is separated by the fjord. Our journey on this route was almost devoid of traffic and travelled through farmland that supported dairy cattle grazing on rich pastures. Occasionally a startled hare would dart across the open fields. As we neared the coastline you could nearly taste the salt as it was being carried inland by the incessant wind.
Rubjerg Knude Lighthouse which is located on the coast of the North Sea just south of Lonstrup was our first stop. It was first lit in December 1900.The lighthouse is on the top of Lonstrup Klint (cliff), 60 metres above sea level. Both shifting sands and coastal erosion are a serious problem in the area. The coast is eroded on average 1.5 metres a year, which can be seen most clearly as you peer over the edge of the cliff from the ruins of the dismantled buildings. Fortunately for us we were able to get up to the old light via the recently installed interior flight of steps. The view of the desert like dunes and the sea was worth the climb. It is expected that due to the erosion the lighthouse will topple into the sea in the next 10 to 15 years.
A few kilometres down the road was the fishing village of Lonstrup. The sea which has provided the livelihood for generations is now threatening to devour the cliff on which the town was built. The locals have built a series of stone walls to help stabilize the cliff. The village is popular for artisans as there are a number of galleries and open workshops. We took a stroll along the winding high street past well-maintained old fishermen’s houses, painters, glassblowers, potters and goldsmiths. We ultimately stopped for lunch at a cozy restaurant that offered a lunch meal deal that included a filet of flounder. I washed the meal down with a pint of the local stout.
It was time to hit the road again and back to route 55. Our travels took us past numerous camp sites that were starting to get a few caravans prior to the summer rush. We had a two minute look at the town of Hirtshals where large boats take on passengers and cars to destinations like Norway. We took route 597 to the east coast and then hung a left onto route 40 for a twenty five kilometre drive to the end of the road at Grenen. The entire region at the Top of Denmark has been shaped by the wind and the sea. The absolute tip, Lands End, at Grenen is a piece of Denmark that is not easy to pin down. It is constantly moving, depending on the direction of the wind and the ocean currents. By the time we reached Grenen the clouds had appeared and the wind was at a debilitating chill factor. For that reason we dipped our toes in the Kattegat which was a couple of hundred metres short of where the two seas, the Skagerrak and the Kattegat meet. So close but yet so far. During World War 2 the top of Denmark was also the German’s bridgehead to Norway. The German fortification of the Danish west coast was the biggest construction project in Denmark’s history and took place between 1941 and 1944. There are a number of Bunker Museums on the island and they are well worth a visit.
Our next stop was on the outskirts of the picturesque small town of Skagen to take a gander at the oldest lighthouse in Denmark. The Vippefyret, Skagen lighthouse was built in 1627 and is like no other lighthouse that I have seen. It looks more like a medieval catapult as it is cantilevered to hoist a basket of fire or burning coals 10 metres into the air. We stopped at Skagen in search of a steaming hot coffee and cake. The main shopping street is lined with buildings that were built in the early 1900’s but today they were nearly devoid of people. I think that was due to the lateness of the day and the wind that could have frozen the proverbials off a brass monkey. Joan was on a mission for coffee but was being hampered at every turn as everything was closing for the day. Eventually we found a Belgian Waffle shop that was still open. We ended up with a very rich waffle topped with ice-cream and smothered with chocolate sauce. The percolated coffee was very bland but it helped to warm us up.
The top of Denmark is also excellent for cycling and hiking due to the flatness of the terrain. The North Sea Trail runs all the way round the North Sea through Denmark, Germany and the Netherlands. You can also hike the well signposted Ancient Road Haervejen which is part of the historic pilgrims’ route from the cathedral in Trondheim, Denmark to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Anyone up for a stroll!
The journey back to Aalborg was just over 100km and the rain from the south had finally reached us. We travelled back on route 40 to Frederikshavn and then took the E45 expressway. In the conditions Joan drove with controlled expertise and delivered us safely back to the unit at 18:30. After such a large lunch today we had a simple meal of Danish hotdogs. I of course washed this down with a few Tuborgs.
Wednesday 6th April – Downtown Aalborg
Today is not a rush day so we took our time over breakfast before heading off to the downtown area. Joan showed us where she grew up and then took us to the cemetery where her mother and father are interred. The cemetery itself was the best kept graveyard that I have ever seen. The plots were a reflection of the love each family held for those who had passed before them.
In the downtown area it was quite busy and Joan had a hard time finding a place to park. As we left the car-park I thought that it was going to be an extraordinary long day. It had nothing to do with the extended hours of daylight but more to do because of how bitterly cold it was. The last time I was so cold it was blowing a gale in Iceland. I was so thankful when Joan directed us to a shop that was operated by the Church that was selling second-hand clothes. I soon found a jacket that reeked of warmth and had my name written on it. Fifty five Danish Kroner ($11) I was standing outside as warm as toast feeling like I was king of the world. And so it goes! We wandered around the old part of the City along cobblestone streets seeking out the poorer quarters where the ragged people go (Gotta Love Simon and Garfunkel). Seriously though, Joan did lead us through some interesting parts of the City.
Around lunch time I was forced onto the suffering seat as the girls trolled through the Sailing Department store. Just outside the store there is a lift that transports you down to the Middle Ages. As you exit the lift there is a well laid out small museum which exhibits the subterranean remains of the medieval Greyfriars Monastery. In one of the display cases there is a complete human skeleton. You can also see what ancient monastic life may have been like as well as the remains of the monastery’s foundations. By the time I returned to the surface the girls had still not returned from their shopping foray so I dutifully took up my position on the suffering seat. Eventually, they returned so we took a break and had lunch at the department store.
Joan took us on a walking tour which started with Jens Bangs House which was built by the wealthy Jens in 1642. In spite of his wealth he was never made a member of the town council and he can be seen sticking out his tongue at the town hall. The building façade is covered with caricatures of what many say were his enemies. Sweet revenge for old Jens Bang! The town hall that Jens sneered at was the predecessor of the present modern building that was constructed in 1759. Cook still had not made it to Australia! The square in front of the town hall is the oldest in the City and marks the city centre. Distances from Aalborg are still measured from this place and the stone column in the middle of the square is the zero kilometre stone. The highlight of the walk was not the Sogaards Bryghus which offers gastronomical delights as well as their own special beers but the imposing Budolfi Cathedral. Work has been going on here for over 800 years and the baroque spire is the trademark of the city. Inside the church on the cross vaulting you can see fine frescoes of the four evangelists. The last of the historical sites that we visited was the Monastery of the Holy Ghost. We went into the outer courtyard with its well preserved fountain and had a great look at the outside architecture of the building.
At this stage I managed to wangle a leave pass for an hour as the girls wanted to browse a few stores and look at the Utzon Centre. Utzon was the Danish architect who designed the Sydney Opera House. My plan was to head to a pub and purchase a ticket for the Aalborg Beerwalk. I made my way to the John Bull Pub where they had a huge range of beers on tap. For DKK100 I purchased my Beerwalk kit which consisted of a tasting glass, six beer vouchers and a map showing the location of the participating establishments. I started with a John Bull dark ale and a Founders All Day Session IPA which is brewed in Grand Rapids, Michigan. Across the road in one of the historic buildings that lines Osteragade Street was the Irish House. When I entered the bar I was greeted in an Irish brogue by the owner Jerome. I also increased the patronage by 100percent to a total of one. There were plenty of beers on tap and as time was running out I decided to off load all of my remaining vouchers here. I started with a dark ale and followed with a Galway Hooker Irish Pale Ale which is brewed on the west coast of Ireland. It was well balanced, fully flavoured with a great finish making it a highly refreshing and more-ish beer. It was getting close to my departure time for the Utzon centre so I quickly knocked back my last beer which was a draft of Guinness.
When I emerged back out onto the street I was amazed to see that it was raining. I met Alice at the centre and we headed up the street to the imposing Musikkens Hus. With its circular windows, raw concrete exterior and soft, drop-like interiors it is architectonic landmark on the waterfront. The rain had now eased off so we headed back to the car-park passing the Abbey Road Café along the way.
Back home again and Joan whipped up a delicious meal of rissoles with onion gravy and baby potatoes whose origin was possibly Spain. A cheeky bottle of Chianti complemented the meal.
Another excellent sleep last night so I believe that my patterns are back in synchronization. A relaxing morning in Ordrup which was spent surfing the net for a reasonably priced battery for my Asus netbook. After about five years of world travel the old battery is finally on its last legs. Like me it is finding it difficult to hold a charge. As usual the cheapest ones are from China but I don’t have the luxury of being able to wait for a delivery. Enough rambling about batteries I finally found one in Denmark for about $75.
After lunch Jens packed us into the BMW to convey us to Soro where we will spend two nights with Alice and Lilian’s cousin, once removed Helle. Jens avoided the main highway and took us the scenic route through coastal towns and farmland. Along the way we passed Denmark’s oldest inn Bromølle Kro which has been in service since 1198 in the 12th century. Hard to believe something has been in operation long before America and Australia was opened to white settlement.
It is a sad day in Denmark as there is a state funeral for their former prime minister, Anker Jorgensen who passed away at the age of 93. The funeral was televised on national television and I gather that he was well revered. From a family perspective this funeral touched it as one of the pall bearers Lissa is related to Alice’s family. She was the prime minister’s personal secretary and for many years has visited and cared for him. I can’t imagine how difficult the last couple of weeks have been for her. Hopefully, she will be up for a visit to Soro tomorrow.
We arrived at Soro which is a small town bordered by a large lake. There is a large church, quaint shops with a cobbled street running past the main square and church. It was a pleasure to reacquaint ourselves with Jon who appears to be getting younger and to finally meet Helle and their two gorgeous daughters Sophie and Emma. They have a beautiful large house with a backyard that is larger than the combined area of our Milton and Currimundi abodes. The rear of the house overlooks the lake and is separated only by the walking trail that circumnavigates the lake. After coffee we all took a short walk along the foreshore which culminated at the old private school. Some of the out-buildings must be well over a hundred years old. Judging by the photographs on the wall of the local kayak club there are some really big fish that inhabit the lake.
Back at the house Jon plied me with some exotic craft beers and the girls enjoyed a couple of wines. As I watched Jon prepare the evening meal I thought that he could get a gig on Masterchef. He works with great speed and purpose whilst listening to the top 500 heavy metal tracks. He prepared a great meal of baked Atlantic Salmon with a sauce that was to die for. For the record and our later use I think the sauce was constructed as follows.
· Finely chopped red onion, sautéed in olive oil with some salt and pepper.
· When softened add a good drop of white wine and a touch of chicken stock
· Stir, reduce and add a little more wine and season to taste
· To finish stir in some cream and slightly reduce
· Pour generously over the Salmon
An amazing dinner, a couple of beers and wines and it was off to bed.
Sunday 3rd April - Soro
This morning was a leisurely affair as we grazed over a sumptuous breakfast. Lilian has decided to say in with Emma and wait for Lissa’s arrival. The rest of us however are going to tackle the 9km lake circuit. It is perfect walking weather as it is still cool and not too many clouds. I was amazed to see plenty of joggers, bicycle riders and a few elderly people out and about. The Danes appear to be a very energetic nation. The deciduous trees are still without leaves so we still get some sunshine penetrating what would be otherwise a very thick canopy. At various intervals there are small jetties protruding out onto the lake which gives you another perspective on how large this body of water is. When we were about two thirds into our journey I could feel a code yellow coming on. Not knowing the Danish etiquette for peeing in nature I sucked in my stomach muscles, lengthened my stride and headed for the town centre for some relief. With that business taken care of we rejoined the trail and finished off the walk which took a little over two hours.
When we arrived Lissa was there and you could tell that she was emotionally worn out from the funeral. Nevertheless she is a trooper and it was good to be able to spend time with her. Prior to lunch Jon and I spent some time with the girls practicing our ski jumping on the Wi machine (don’t know if I spelt that correctly). Needless to say that the girls were far better than me at this extreme sport. Another delicious lunch was followed by some quiet time and the news that the West Indies had just won the 20-20 world cup in spectacular fashion.
With the sun not going down until about 7:30pm it is easy to forget when dinner should be prepared. Luckily, we have Jon to think for us as he has once again jumped into dynamic action and whipped up some nachos and Mexican fajitas with all the accompaniments. He certainly has some skills and once again it was a sensory delight. No heavy drinking tonight as the non-travellers have to work and go off to school.
Monday 4th April – Soro to Aalborg
I managed to get up early as I wanted to say goodbye to Jon and the girls. Our Aussie kids get it easy as Sophie and Emma both have to be at school for an 8:00am start. Helle is working from home and has graciously given up her time to drive us to the station. We had a terrific time in Soro and Jon and Helle could not have been more hospitable. I hope that they will make the big trip down under as we would love to spend some more time with them.
Helle ensured that we were on the right train and the correct carriage for our 10:50 departure to Aalborg. Was the smile on her face one of joy for having met us or the fact that they are finally getting their house back after back to back visitors. I think it was for having met us. The trip to Aalborg is a little over 350km and takes just four hours on the intercity express train. With a little help from Joan who is Helle’s mum I managed to purchase our tickets on-line prior to leaving home. The cost of this internet booking was around $37.
Once on board we were seated in a 2x2 configuration and shared our area with a gentleman of Eastern European persuasion. Lilian ever the pessimist was glad that he was not carrying a backpack. I think that he may have been Turkish. He slept for most of the trip as there is plenty of legroom and the seats are very comfortable. After about twenty minutes of travel through the panoramic countryside the train dipped into a long tunnel before emerging onto what was the longest rail bridge in the world. The bridge itself connects the Danish islands of Zeeland where the capital Copenhagen is located to the island of Fyn. The main city on Fyn is Odense which was the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen. Our journey continued onwards and within the next hour we crossed a fjord which brought us onto mainland Europe and the area of Jutland. In between towns with quaint names such as Middelfart and Hobro the countryside was dotted with farms.
At the major town of Aarhus which is Denmark’s second largest city we thought we had to change trains to catch the InterCity 337. With a little help from a Danish lady we discerned that all we had to do was change carriages. The train departed on time and 90 minutes later we pulled into Aalborg at 14:50. When we alighted our grand cousin Joan was waiting for us. In no time Joan had us comfortably seated in her Renault Clio and ready to begin another leg of our European vacation. It is always a pleasure staying with relatives like her as she has gone out of her way to make our stay memorable. For instance she has given up her bed for Alice and me and also gone to the trouble of preparing a welcome kit for the three of us. Dinner tonight was delicious slices of roasted ham with creamy baked potato and salad. For yours truly there were even icy cans of Tuborg beer.
Tuesday 5th April – Toppen af Danmark (Top of Denmark)
After a leisurely breakfast of rye bread with cheese, muesli with yogurt, coffee and Danish pastries it was time to hit the road for the top of Denmark. Our route took us across the Limfjorden to Norresundby and then along route 55 to the west coast. This section of Denmark is still part of Jutland but it is an island which is separated by the fjord. Our journey on this route was almost devoid of traffic and travelled through farmland that supported dairy cattle grazing on rich pastures. Occasionally a startled hare would dart across the open fields. As we neared the coastline you could nearly taste the salt as it was being carried inland by the incessant wind.
Rubjerg Knude Lighthouse which is located on the coast of the North Sea just south of Lonstrup was our first stop. It was first lit in December 1900.The lighthouse is on the top of Lonstrup Klint (cliff), 60 metres above sea level. Both shifting sands and coastal erosion are a serious problem in the area. The coast is eroded on average 1.5 metres a year, which can be seen most clearly as you peer over the edge of the cliff from the ruins of the dismantled buildings. Fortunately for us we were able to get up to the old light via the recently installed interior flight of steps. The view of the desert like dunes and the sea was worth the climb. It is expected that due to the erosion the lighthouse will topple into the sea in the next 10 to 15 years.
A few kilometres down the road was the fishing village of Lonstrup. The sea which has provided the livelihood for generations is now threatening to devour the cliff on which the town was built. The locals have built a series of stone walls to help stabilize the cliff. The village is popular for artisans as there are a number of galleries and open workshops. We took a stroll along the winding high street past well-maintained old fishermen’s houses, painters, glassblowers, potters and goldsmiths. We ultimately stopped for lunch at a cozy restaurant that offered a lunch meal deal that included a filet of flounder. I washed the meal down with a pint of the local stout.
It was time to hit the road again and back to route 55. Our travels took us past numerous camp sites that were starting to get a few caravans prior to the summer rush. We had a two minute look at the town of Hirtshals where large boats take on passengers and cars to destinations like Norway. We took route 597 to the east coast and then hung a left onto route 40 for a twenty five kilometre drive to the end of the road at Grenen. The entire region at the Top of Denmark has been shaped by the wind and the sea. The absolute tip, Lands End, at Grenen is a piece of Denmark that is not easy to pin down. It is constantly moving, depending on the direction of the wind and the ocean currents. By the time we reached Grenen the clouds had appeared and the wind was at a debilitating chill factor. For that reason we dipped our toes in the Kattegat which was a couple of hundred metres short of where the two seas, the Skagerrak and the Kattegat meet. So close but yet so far. During World War 2 the top of Denmark was also the German’s bridgehead to Norway. The German fortification of the Danish west coast was the biggest construction project in Denmark’s history and took place between 1941 and 1944. There are a number of Bunker Museums on the island and they are well worth a visit.
Our next stop was on the outskirts of the picturesque small town of Skagen to take a gander at the oldest lighthouse in Denmark. The Vippefyret, Skagen lighthouse was built in 1627 and is like no other lighthouse that I have seen. It looks more like a medieval catapult as it is cantilevered to hoist a basket of fire or burning coals 10 metres into the air. We stopped at Skagen in search of a steaming hot coffee and cake. The main shopping street is lined with buildings that were built in the early 1900’s but today they were nearly devoid of people. I think that was due to the lateness of the day and the wind that could have frozen the proverbials off a brass monkey. Joan was on a mission for coffee but was being hampered at every turn as everything was closing for the day. Eventually we found a Belgian Waffle shop that was still open. We ended up with a very rich waffle topped with ice-cream and smothered with chocolate sauce. The percolated coffee was very bland but it helped to warm us up.
The top of Denmark is also excellent for cycling and hiking due to the flatness of the terrain. The North Sea Trail runs all the way round the North Sea through Denmark, Germany and the Netherlands. You can also hike the well signposted Ancient Road Haervejen which is part of the historic pilgrims’ route from the cathedral in Trondheim, Denmark to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Anyone up for a stroll!
The journey back to Aalborg was just over 100km and the rain from the south had finally reached us. We travelled back on route 40 to Frederikshavn and then took the E45 expressway. In the conditions Joan drove with controlled expertise and delivered us safely back to the unit at 18:30. After such a large lunch today we had a simple meal of Danish hotdogs. I of course washed this down with a few Tuborgs.
Wednesday 6th April – Downtown Aalborg
Today is not a rush day so we took our time over breakfast before heading off to the downtown area. Joan showed us where she grew up and then took us to the cemetery where her mother and father are interred. The cemetery itself was the best kept graveyard that I have ever seen. The plots were a reflection of the love each family held for those who had passed before them.
In the downtown area it was quite busy and Joan had a hard time finding a place to park. As we left the car-park I thought that it was going to be an extraordinary long day. It had nothing to do with the extended hours of daylight but more to do because of how bitterly cold it was. The last time I was so cold it was blowing a gale in Iceland. I was so thankful when Joan directed us to a shop that was operated by the Church that was selling second-hand clothes. I soon found a jacket that reeked of warmth and had my name written on it. Fifty five Danish Kroner ($11) I was standing outside as warm as toast feeling like I was king of the world. And so it goes! We wandered around the old part of the City along cobblestone streets seeking out the poorer quarters where the ragged people go (Gotta Love Simon and Garfunkel). Seriously though, Joan did lead us through some interesting parts of the City.
Around lunch time I was forced onto the suffering seat as the girls trolled through the Sailing Department store. Just outside the store there is a lift that transports you down to the Middle Ages. As you exit the lift there is a well laid out small museum which exhibits the subterranean remains of the medieval Greyfriars Monastery. In one of the display cases there is a complete human skeleton. You can also see what ancient monastic life may have been like as well as the remains of the monastery’s foundations. By the time I returned to the surface the girls had still not returned from their shopping foray so I dutifully took up my position on the suffering seat. Eventually, they returned so we took a break and had lunch at the department store.
Joan took us on a walking tour which started with Jens Bangs House which was built by the wealthy Jens in 1642. In spite of his wealth he was never made a member of the town council and he can be seen sticking out his tongue at the town hall. The building façade is covered with caricatures of what many say were his enemies. Sweet revenge for old Jens Bang! The town hall that Jens sneered at was the predecessor of the present modern building that was constructed in 1759. Cook still had not made it to Australia! The square in front of the town hall is the oldest in the City and marks the city centre. Distances from Aalborg are still measured from this place and the stone column in the middle of the square is the zero kilometre stone. The highlight of the walk was not the Sogaards Bryghus which offers gastronomical delights as well as their own special beers but the imposing Budolfi Cathedral. Work has been going on here for over 800 years and the baroque spire is the trademark of the city. Inside the church on the cross vaulting you can see fine frescoes of the four evangelists. The last of the historical sites that we visited was the Monastery of the Holy Ghost. We went into the outer courtyard with its well preserved fountain and had a great look at the outside architecture of the building.
At this stage I managed to wangle a leave pass for an hour as the girls wanted to browse a few stores and look at the Utzon Centre. Utzon was the Danish architect who designed the Sydney Opera House. My plan was to head to a pub and purchase a ticket for the Aalborg Beerwalk. I made my way to the John Bull Pub where they had a huge range of beers on tap. For DKK100 I purchased my Beerwalk kit which consisted of a tasting glass, six beer vouchers and a map showing the location of the participating establishments. I started with a John Bull dark ale and a Founders All Day Session IPA which is brewed in Grand Rapids, Michigan. Across the road in one of the historic buildings that lines Osteragade Street was the Irish House. When I entered the bar I was greeted in an Irish brogue by the owner Jerome. I also increased the patronage by 100percent to a total of one. There were plenty of beers on tap and as time was running out I decided to off load all of my remaining vouchers here. I started with a dark ale and followed with a Galway Hooker Irish Pale Ale which is brewed on the west coast of Ireland. It was well balanced, fully flavoured with a great finish making it a highly refreshing and more-ish beer. It was getting close to my departure time for the Utzon centre so I quickly knocked back my last beer which was a draft of Guinness.
When I emerged back out onto the street I was amazed to see that it was raining. I met Alice at the centre and we headed up the street to the imposing Musikkens Hus. With its circular windows, raw concrete exterior and soft, drop-like interiors it is architectonic landmark on the waterfront. The rain had now eased off so we headed back to the car-park passing the Abbey Road Café along the way.
Back home again and Joan whipped up a delicious meal of rissoles with onion gravy and baby potatoes whose origin was possibly Spain. A cheeky bottle of Chianti complemented the meal.
LORD and LADY KAWAKU’s EUROPEAN VACATION
Tuesday 29th March – Brisbane to Sydney (Happy Birthday Annie)
Well this is a different approach to starting a European vacation as we are heading to Sydney to catch our Emirates flight to Dubai. There is a reason for this tactic as we have a guaranteed upgrade to business class for this leg of our journey. Oh how sweet it is even though it will cost us an armful of frequent flyer points. Anyway today’s journey starts with Lilian depositing us at Brisbane’s domestic terminal where we will board a QANTAS flight to Sydney.
The journey down was uneventful but Sydney greeted us with overcast skies and the promise of rain. We opted for a taxi to the Aspire Hotel which would be our home for at least a few hours. The taxi cost was around $34 which compares favourably with the cost of the airport shuttle. Our digs were not quite ready but I had a bit of a problem as I did not bring the credit card that I had booked the room with. The staff were good and eventually we sorted it out with Lilian scanning my card and emailing it to me. We even scored an upgrade to a deluxe room.
After storing our bags we headed out into Sydney rain with an umbrella the size of the Harbour Bridge and sporting the Aspire Hotel logo. It was only a short walk past the Powerhouse Museum to Chinatown. On a whim we tried to find a Turkish eatery in the Market Place where we had dined on a previous trip several years before. After only a few minutes we chanced upon and handed over the princely sum of $8 for a freshly cooked Potato and Spinach Gozleme. Delicious!
With our tummies sated and thanks to a little technology we trudged off into the rain for eight blocks to have a couple of craft beers at the Red Oak Brewery in Clarence Street. We started with a taster board which was reasonable value at $12. I quickly moved onto the Stout and finished with an extra strong bitter. Being a Tuesday the atmosphere was quiet and relaxing. At around 5:30pm we pulled up stumps and headed outside for a 1.5km walk to the La Pesa Trattoria restaurant at 174 Liverpool Street. Our table is booked for 6:00 as we need to finish early as our flight departs Sydney at 6:00am. I have to say that this is one of the best Groupons that I have purchased as the food was sensational. The antipasta was to die for and the mains were fresh and tasty. Alice could not finish her main but she did make room for the desert which was included. We heard another couple mention to the owner that they had an early flight the next day and that they really enjoyed travelling business class. We joked that it would be funny if they were on the same flight.
The rain had stopped so we decided to walk back to the hotel which was a good way to divorce ourselves of a few calories. Along the way we saw a few homeless people sleeping rough. It is a tough existence for those who live on the fringe of our communities.
Wednesday 30th March – Sydney to Dubai
As usual before a long flight we only managed a fitful couple of hours sleep. We didn’t need the alarm that went off on time at 2:30am as we were already up and about. As we stepped into the foyer our limousine driver was waiting to convey us to the airport. One good thing at this time of the morning is there is absolutely no traffic. It was a little after 3:00am and there were already a substantial number of passengers queuing up at the economy check-in counter. Fortunately for us our queue is short and we were sorted in no time. Imagine my disappointment when we found out that we would have to sit around outside for forty minutes as immigration did not open to 4:00am. There wasn’t much point getting there 3 hours early. By the way the couple from the restaurant last night were the first ones to reach the business class lounge closely followed by us and the Jordanian soccer team.
Our flight started with a chilled glass of Moet and departed on time for our 14 hour flight to Dubai. The movie selection was extensive so it wasn’t long before the first movie of the flight was scrolling across the screen. A hearty breakfast soon followed and afterwards we tried for a little shut-eye. Alice managed a couple of broken hours but sleep alluded me like the winning lotto numbers. After watching another movie I headed down to the bar where I sampled a couple of cheeky glasses of shiraz from the Margaret River region of Western Australia. I was joined by the gentleman from La Pesa who incidentally went by the moniker of David. We had a pleasant chat while the women slumbered on. A couple of more movies, cocktails and a large lunch and we were ready to head into UAE airspace. There was a backlog of flights waiting to land so our big 380 cruised around for another hour. We finally touched down just before 2:00pm.
Our flight to Copenhagen is not until 8:20am tomorrow so Emirates is putting us up at the Copthorne Hotel. We had no sooner jumped into our chauffeured car when the driver pulled into the hotel. I reckon we are only a soft boiled egg away from the airport. Our hotel stay also comes with complimentary lunch, dinner and breakfast not that we need any more food at the moment. As we are still very tired we have decided to forego a City or sunset tour. It is a balmy 34 degrees outside so I decided to spend some time by the pool. There were a few people enjoying a beer but I refrained for the time being.
At 7:30 pm it had just turned dark which was the signal to head down to the lobby for dinner. There was a large buffet on offer with a leaning towards Indian cuisine. The samosas appeared to attract the attention of an Arabian version of Homer Simpson who managed to pile a plate as high as the Himalayas. He certainly had the capacity to put it away as he finished well before we did. Our evening finished with a poolside walk and listening to a very talented local duet serenading the guests. It would have been a great spot to spend the evening but sleep beckons as well as a 5:00am wake up call.
Thursday 31st March – Dubai to Copenhagen
Five a clock already, I was just in the middle of a dream….Oh how I wish as once again we have been woken by the internal alarm clock. I guess it must be the fear of missing our flights. The restaurant opened dead on time at 5:30am which gave us time to woof down a quick breakfast. There is a free shuttle bus to the airport which delivered us promptly to the departures level of the airport. Travel time, check-in, immigration and the train to terminal A took 45minutes.
We headed off to gate A3 in search of Lilian who we found ambling along the walkway without a care in the world. She looked remarkably refreshed for someone who had just spent 14 hours on a plane. We found a little coffee shop and bought 3 coffees and a bottle of water. After checking my credit card statement I found that it had cost $29. Ouch, that hurt and to top it off the coffee was terrible.
It is now back to reality as our 6.25 hour flight to Copenhagen is in economy class. We have managed to get our seats on the top deck of the A380 where they have a few rows of double seats. I must say that I was quite comfortable in this configuration. A couple of meals and two movies later it was touchdown in Copenhagen on time at 1:00pm. Once again the slowest part of our journey was the retrieval of our luggage from the carousel. From the moment the plane docked into the air-gate it was a staggering 60 minutes before our bags were delivered. Throughout all this Jens was waiting patiently for us to emerge from the bowels of baggage collection. With hugs all-around we were ushered off to the BMW chariot and were soon on our way to the summer house in Ordrup.
Jens is a convivial host and had soon cracked a fine bottle of Italian red as well as a Leffe Negra for me. Jytte arrived from Roskilde a fraction before 5:00pm and has graciously given up her room for Alice and me. After a few more beers and a delicious beef stroganoff the accumulated loss of sleep began to catch-up on Lilian and me. Stifling my yawning was becoming difficult so without further adieu it was off to bed for what I hoped would be a long sleep.
Friday 1st April – Ordrup, April Fools Day
Finally, I have slept through the night without waking up for endless hours. Jens soon had the coffee machine in full order which was a perfect start to what looks like a great day. Although the sun is shining it is only 4 degrees but it should get past 10 degrees later in the day. After breakfast it was a quick trip to the local shops to purchase some provisions for tonight’s cod dinner. The countryside at the moment is dry but starting to green up as the Spring weather starts to warm up.
After a delicious lunch of rye bread, smoked trout, liver paste, tomato and beetroot the girls decided to take a walk down to Victory Bay to take in the views. Jens tempted me with a true Danish treat which when translated to English was the ‘garbage run”. We loaded up the beamer with the remnants of last night’s empty cans and bottles and went for a country drive to the recycling plant. Unlike home the Danes are more serious about their environment and support it by having plants that are easily accessible and there is no charge. We were greeted by a rather large Danish chap sporting a ubiquitous yellow safety shirt who directed us to our disposal bin. The rest of our trip was spent driving around the countryside and through small hamlets with buildings that bespoke of a time long since past. Farmers were busy ploughing fields and sowing potatoes that should be ready for harvest before we get back from the road trip.
After a relaxing afternoon of doing nothing it was time for the cod dinner with shallots, asparagus and potato. To finish off we had a decadent piece of strawberry tart which Jens had purchased from a bakery a few kilometres from Ordrup.
Well this is a different approach to starting a European vacation as we are heading to Sydney to catch our Emirates flight to Dubai. There is a reason for this tactic as we have a guaranteed upgrade to business class for this leg of our journey. Oh how sweet it is even though it will cost us an armful of frequent flyer points. Anyway today’s journey starts with Lilian depositing us at Brisbane’s domestic terminal where we will board a QANTAS flight to Sydney.
The journey down was uneventful but Sydney greeted us with overcast skies and the promise of rain. We opted for a taxi to the Aspire Hotel which would be our home for at least a few hours. The taxi cost was around $34 which compares favourably with the cost of the airport shuttle. Our digs were not quite ready but I had a bit of a problem as I did not bring the credit card that I had booked the room with. The staff were good and eventually we sorted it out with Lilian scanning my card and emailing it to me. We even scored an upgrade to a deluxe room.
After storing our bags we headed out into Sydney rain with an umbrella the size of the Harbour Bridge and sporting the Aspire Hotel logo. It was only a short walk past the Powerhouse Museum to Chinatown. On a whim we tried to find a Turkish eatery in the Market Place where we had dined on a previous trip several years before. After only a few minutes we chanced upon and handed over the princely sum of $8 for a freshly cooked Potato and Spinach Gozleme. Delicious!
With our tummies sated and thanks to a little technology we trudged off into the rain for eight blocks to have a couple of craft beers at the Red Oak Brewery in Clarence Street. We started with a taster board which was reasonable value at $12. I quickly moved onto the Stout and finished with an extra strong bitter. Being a Tuesday the atmosphere was quiet and relaxing. At around 5:30pm we pulled up stumps and headed outside for a 1.5km walk to the La Pesa Trattoria restaurant at 174 Liverpool Street. Our table is booked for 6:00 as we need to finish early as our flight departs Sydney at 6:00am. I have to say that this is one of the best Groupons that I have purchased as the food was sensational. The antipasta was to die for and the mains were fresh and tasty. Alice could not finish her main but she did make room for the desert which was included. We heard another couple mention to the owner that they had an early flight the next day and that they really enjoyed travelling business class. We joked that it would be funny if they were on the same flight.
The rain had stopped so we decided to walk back to the hotel which was a good way to divorce ourselves of a few calories. Along the way we saw a few homeless people sleeping rough. It is a tough existence for those who live on the fringe of our communities.
Wednesday 30th March – Sydney to Dubai
As usual before a long flight we only managed a fitful couple of hours sleep. We didn’t need the alarm that went off on time at 2:30am as we were already up and about. As we stepped into the foyer our limousine driver was waiting to convey us to the airport. One good thing at this time of the morning is there is absolutely no traffic. It was a little after 3:00am and there were already a substantial number of passengers queuing up at the economy check-in counter. Fortunately for us our queue is short and we were sorted in no time. Imagine my disappointment when we found out that we would have to sit around outside for forty minutes as immigration did not open to 4:00am. There wasn’t much point getting there 3 hours early. By the way the couple from the restaurant last night were the first ones to reach the business class lounge closely followed by us and the Jordanian soccer team.
Our flight started with a chilled glass of Moet and departed on time for our 14 hour flight to Dubai. The movie selection was extensive so it wasn’t long before the first movie of the flight was scrolling across the screen. A hearty breakfast soon followed and afterwards we tried for a little shut-eye. Alice managed a couple of broken hours but sleep alluded me like the winning lotto numbers. After watching another movie I headed down to the bar where I sampled a couple of cheeky glasses of shiraz from the Margaret River region of Western Australia. I was joined by the gentleman from La Pesa who incidentally went by the moniker of David. We had a pleasant chat while the women slumbered on. A couple of more movies, cocktails and a large lunch and we were ready to head into UAE airspace. There was a backlog of flights waiting to land so our big 380 cruised around for another hour. We finally touched down just before 2:00pm.
Our flight to Copenhagen is not until 8:20am tomorrow so Emirates is putting us up at the Copthorne Hotel. We had no sooner jumped into our chauffeured car when the driver pulled into the hotel. I reckon we are only a soft boiled egg away from the airport. Our hotel stay also comes with complimentary lunch, dinner and breakfast not that we need any more food at the moment. As we are still very tired we have decided to forego a City or sunset tour. It is a balmy 34 degrees outside so I decided to spend some time by the pool. There were a few people enjoying a beer but I refrained for the time being.
At 7:30 pm it had just turned dark which was the signal to head down to the lobby for dinner. There was a large buffet on offer with a leaning towards Indian cuisine. The samosas appeared to attract the attention of an Arabian version of Homer Simpson who managed to pile a plate as high as the Himalayas. He certainly had the capacity to put it away as he finished well before we did. Our evening finished with a poolside walk and listening to a very talented local duet serenading the guests. It would have been a great spot to spend the evening but sleep beckons as well as a 5:00am wake up call.
Thursday 31st March – Dubai to Copenhagen
Five a clock already, I was just in the middle of a dream….Oh how I wish as once again we have been woken by the internal alarm clock. I guess it must be the fear of missing our flights. The restaurant opened dead on time at 5:30am which gave us time to woof down a quick breakfast. There is a free shuttle bus to the airport which delivered us promptly to the departures level of the airport. Travel time, check-in, immigration and the train to terminal A took 45minutes.
We headed off to gate A3 in search of Lilian who we found ambling along the walkway without a care in the world. She looked remarkably refreshed for someone who had just spent 14 hours on a plane. We found a little coffee shop and bought 3 coffees and a bottle of water. After checking my credit card statement I found that it had cost $29. Ouch, that hurt and to top it off the coffee was terrible.
It is now back to reality as our 6.25 hour flight to Copenhagen is in economy class. We have managed to get our seats on the top deck of the A380 where they have a few rows of double seats. I must say that I was quite comfortable in this configuration. A couple of meals and two movies later it was touchdown in Copenhagen on time at 1:00pm. Once again the slowest part of our journey was the retrieval of our luggage from the carousel. From the moment the plane docked into the air-gate it was a staggering 60 minutes before our bags were delivered. Throughout all this Jens was waiting patiently for us to emerge from the bowels of baggage collection. With hugs all-around we were ushered off to the BMW chariot and were soon on our way to the summer house in Ordrup.
Jens is a convivial host and had soon cracked a fine bottle of Italian red as well as a Leffe Negra for me. Jytte arrived from Roskilde a fraction before 5:00pm and has graciously given up her room for Alice and me. After a few more beers and a delicious beef stroganoff the accumulated loss of sleep began to catch-up on Lilian and me. Stifling my yawning was becoming difficult so without further adieu it was off to bed for what I hoped would be a long sleep.
Friday 1st April – Ordrup, April Fools Day
Finally, I have slept through the night without waking up for endless hours. Jens soon had the coffee machine in full order which was a perfect start to what looks like a great day. Although the sun is shining it is only 4 degrees but it should get past 10 degrees later in the day. After breakfast it was a quick trip to the local shops to purchase some provisions for tonight’s cod dinner. The countryside at the moment is dry but starting to green up as the Spring weather starts to warm up.
After a delicious lunch of rye bread, smoked trout, liver paste, tomato and beetroot the girls decided to take a walk down to Victory Bay to take in the views. Jens tempted me with a true Danish treat which when translated to English was the ‘garbage run”. We loaded up the beamer with the remnants of last night’s empty cans and bottles and went for a country drive to the recycling plant. Unlike home the Danes are more serious about their environment and support it by having plants that are easily accessible and there is no charge. We were greeted by a rather large Danish chap sporting a ubiquitous yellow safety shirt who directed us to our disposal bin. The rest of our trip was spent driving around the countryside and through small hamlets with buildings that bespoke of a time long since past. Farmers were busy ploughing fields and sowing potatoes that should be ready for harvest before we get back from the road trip.
After a relaxing afternoon of doing nothing it was time for the cod dinner with shallots, asparagus and potato. To finish off we had a decadent piece of strawberry tart which Jens had purchased from a bakery a few kilometres from Ordrup.
Wednesday, December 16, 2015
Adventures in Economy - Hawaii Part 3
Thursday, 19th November – Another Day at the Office
It is a little like Groundhog Day as Tony and I have had bacon, fried eggs and pork beans for breakfast followed by another workout at the gym. The girls went off for Pilates and an aqua fitness class. I must be enjoying the holiday as I made the mistake of jumping on the scales at the gym. To my chagrin I’ve added another 3kg in under three weeks.
I spent most of the afternoon trying to work out the most economical way for us to travel from KoOlina to Waikiki. Julie ended up finding a site for star taxis which is a discount taxi company. I called them and they quoted $US80 for the trip which is much cheaper than all the other options. I booked the trip and will probably use them for our transfer to the airport from Waikiki as they only charge $US30. www.startaxihawaii.com
The romantic sunset on the beach has been relegated to the back burner as the rain god has chosen to open up the heavens this afternoon. Alice and I stayed in doors but Tony and Julie backed up for a line dancing or boot scooting class. They returned looking all sweaty but a champagne and a beer perked them up. Dinner tonight is at the hotel’s longboard restaurant. There was no need to book as the rain is keeping everybody away including the local entertainer. The food was just okay but the atmosphere made up for it.
Friday, 20th November – Who’ll Stop The Rain
There was no need to hurry out of bed this morning as it is still raining. We checked out of our room at 10:00am and Julie arranged for our bags to be stored and a pass so that we could use the facilities. Tony and I hit the gym again however the girls had to be content with slumming it in the hot tub as all outdoor activities have been cancelled due to the rain.
There were some indoor activities available so Tony and Julie signed up for some Ukulele lessons whilst Alice and I contented ourselves with some light reading. Tony returned with a good understanding of the requisite skills he needed to be a player. Fortunately, for us he did not burst into a rendition of Tiny Tim’s “Tip Toe Through The Tulips”. Our Star Taxi arrived at 2:00pm and it comfortably fitted us all in and had ample room for our luggage. The driver did inform us that the company gets many calls from Australia for airport pickups. All you have to do is contact them the day before you fly out, give them your relevant flight details etc and they will meet you at the airport.
The trip to Waikiki was uneventful and took just under an hour. Our salubrious lodgings will be the not so five star budget Holiday Surf Hotel. It is located about a 10 minute walk to the beach and is next to the Ala Wai Canal on the very busy Ala Wai Boulevard. Our budget price of approximately $US95 per night isn’t too bad as our rooms have a reasonable kitchen with basic utensils. The only downside is that the noise emanating from the vehicular traffic is exacerbated by the squelching rubber on the wet tarmac. Our only solution was to crank up the air conditioner to drown out the noise.
The hotel staff are very helpful and pointed us in the direction of a reasonably sized and priced supermarket. We purchased enough supplies to last us a few days but Tony and I had to return to ensure we had enough beer for our evening respite. When it was time for bed I thought that I had not turned off the light. I then realized that we have a street light directly outside our third storey window which throws a bright yellow light through our threadbare curtains. Fortunately we both managed to drop off to sleep without the usual tossin’ and turnin’.
Saturday, 21st November – Waikiki
This morning we caught up with Sue and Russell at the Outrigger Waikiki Hotel for a look at the Ukulele Guild of Hawaii’s annual exhibition. Some of the instruments that were on display were works of art and were for sale for over $US2000. There were also some groups playing traditional Hawaiian songs accompanied by singers old and young. The rain had eased off so we took a long walk along the shoreline passing the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, U.S. Army museum and the Hilton Hawaiian Village. The latter sits next to the Ala Wai Yacht Club and is a huge complex with its own beach and private lagoon which appears to be well favoured by blushing Japanese brides.
The weather was still quite ordinary so the girls decided that some shop trolling would be a good way to spend some time. Tony and I being perfect husbands quickly acquiesced to their very reasonable request. From the yacht club it was only a short walk to the huge Ala Moana Shopping Centre. We knew that we were on the right path as we could see other tourists happily toting bargains back to their hotels in well filled Macy bags. After a spot of lunch in the food court we bid the girls farewell and set off for a leisurely stroll around the shops. We soon became bored but had a knowing laugh when we saw all the other men sitting in the suffering seats. Tony was looking a tad disheveled and went looking for a barber. He found one that was doing a brisk business which was either a good indication that it was cheap or they were good at their work. With his decision made he entered the shop and was soon in the hands of the world’s oldest hairdressers. She was probably cutting hair when Pearl Harbor was bombed. I was in fear for his ears as I had grave doubts that she could still hold the scissors with a steady hand. Nevertheless his ears remained intact and he emerged looking more handsome than ever. For three hours worth of shopping the girls returned with surprisingly little merchandise. Well there is always tomorrow!
Meanwhile back at the hotel we have freshened ourselves up and are ready to meet Sue and Russell at the Waolina Cocktail Lounge for a pre-dinner cocktail. Russell chose this place as the happy hour runs from noon until six in the evening. The beers were $2, Mai Tai’s $4 and the service terrible. In the hour that we were there we did manage to get two beers. Afterwards we took a long walk back to the Outrigger Hotel for a dinner with the Ukulele Guild. The buffet dinner was good and Tony could not resist going back for seconds as there was so much food leftover. His only mistake was that he did not have a knife or fork as they had already been taken away. Luckily, Sue had a set of used utensils which did the trick. The highlight of the evening was the concert that featured highly skilled Ukulele players who tested their abilities on instruments that were constructed by guild members. It was interesting to have a brief synopsis of the different materials used in construction and the sound that they were trying to achieve. A Japanese maker used a Vienna spruce that was harvested on a full moon light. Apparently that has an impact on the amount of moisture in the timber. A great night, with great music and a perfect way to end the day.
Sunday, 22nd November – Waikiki Rain
Well our walk up to Diamond Head is definitely cancelled for today as it is bucketing down. All this rain is a little unusual so the girls decided that they would check out a few of the local shops. Tony and I dropped them off at the Ross, Dress for Less store with instructions to meet us for lunch at 1:00pm at the Long Yard bar for a late lunch. With the rain pelting down Tony and I headed for some covered walkways which are few and far between on the streets of Waikiki in search of a hot coffee. After all we did not want to start too early at the Long Yard. Eventually we found a good coffee brew house and managed to kill an hour or so by people watching. When the clock struck twelve we headed straight to the bar and pulled up a stool with a good view of the street. There are about 150 beers on tap so we decided to try an IPA sampler. There were six small beers to sample and at a fraction over $US10 reasonable value. The following will be of interest to beer drinkers only and is a small description of our two favourites.
1. Breakside Wunderlust IPA 6.4% from Portland – A golden IPA made with 5 different hops, intense grapefruit and dank notes with a crisp finish.
2. Rouge Farms 7 Hop IPA 8% from Oregon – utilizes all 7 hops grown in the hopyard of Rouge Farms. This blend is then added to 3 varieties of Rouge Farms malt and brewed with free range Oregon costal waters.
As we were finishing off the tasting Alice arrived without any purchases. Fifteen minutes later Julie also arrived in a similar vein. It turns out that they had bought so much booty that they had to return to the hotel. The girls quickly ordered a cocktail and placed an order for lunch. The still thirsty boys were hooked on the IPA so an order for a half yard of Deschutes Inversion IPA was placed. We were still drinking that beastie long after devouring our lunch. As discriminating hop heads and at 6.8% this big, bold IPA’s intense multi-hop kick gets a subtle dose of restraint from select Munich and Caramel malts. As you can tell we think this is an amazing beer.
Back at the hotel the four of us combined our food resources and had a nice cheap dinner which was followed by a reasonably early night.
Monday, 23rd November – Big Fat Rain and Waikele Premium Outlet
The rain is still coming down but the girls are undaunted as they are booked on a Roberts Bus Shuttle ($US15 return) which is leaving Waikiki at 9:30am. We don’t expect them to return until after 6:00pm which means we have a free day. Around 10:30 and in between downpours we caught up with Russell and went for a stroll around Waikiki looking for a coffee shop that had a spare table with dry seats. After much searching we ended up down near the Long Yard and enjoyed a nice strong latte. With the rain still tumbling down we decided that it was time to have a salty dip in the briny waters of Waikiki. After all we couldn’t get any wetter. The water was warm but the area where we chose to swim was full of rocks of all sizes. It wasn’t too deep but you couldn’t see the bottom as the stormy weather had churned up the sand. We lasted for about fifteen minutes which also gave us the opportunity for a code yellow.
Russell had some business to catch up on so we left him to his own devices. We still had a couple of steaks in the refrigerator so a steak sandwich was the order of the day. A quick bus trip and the purchase of a new pair of runners filled in the afternoon. Russell had promised us a couple of beers so we headed up to his hotel. A large Hawaiian woman was on duty so we told her we were here to visit Mr. Russell in room 401. This was when our Basil Fawlty moment occurred. She then asked if we wanted a room. No, I want to visit Russell I replied. What is your room number she said. I don’t have a room, I’m only visiting…. This went backwards and forwards like an old tape recording. Eventually, she looked at the register and said Sue room 206. Seems like Sue was the magic word and Russell does not know his room number!
Anyhow we made it to the room and killed a couple of beers whilst looking out the window in anticipation of the girls return. Being impeccable husbands we decided to meet them at the drop off point to assist them in the carriage of the recently purchased chattels. After waiting for more than 45 minutes we gave up and adjourned to a bar across the road. We had no sooner sat down for a drink when they were spotted walking up the street clutching an array of bags which included Victoria Secret. The bus had apparently dropped them outside the store so they justifiably had spent the last 45 minutes there. We decided to try dinner some Udon Noodles for dinner and chose Marukame Udon Restaurant (Address: 2310 Kuhio Ave). There is always a queue outside which is testament to its popularity and value for money. The wait in line is relatively short as the diners move on once they have eaten. Guests order at the counter at this casual Japanese restaurant specializing in noodle soup. It is not a place for chatting or sipping slowly on a glass of wine. I’m not a fan of noodles but the general opinion was that the food was excellent.
Back at Sue and Russell’s the girls displayed all of the bargains that they had purchased. Alice also did a little shimmy wearing her Victoria Secret outfit. No more to be said about that!
Tuesday, 24th November – Diamond Head
The weather has finally cleared up so after breakfast we jumped on the number 23 bus (number 2 also available) and headed up to Diamond Head ($1 admission) to hike around the crater and the top of the rim. We arrived at the drop off point about 15 minutes later. It was only mid-morning but given the good weather it seemed that every tourist was out to hike the trail. There’s just something empowering about walking up the side of an extinct volcano. More than 3,500 feet in diameter with a 760-foot summit, Diamond Head in Waikiki is perhaps the world’s most recognized volcanic crater. It is a lasting remnant of a volcanic explosion that occurred about 500,000 years ago. Ancient Hawaiians called it Laeahi, which translates to “brow of the tuna.” The name “Diamond Head” can be traced to the 1800s, when British sailors mistakenly thought there were diamonds lodged in the crater’s soil. The “diamonds” turned out to be calcite crystals embedded in the lava rock.
The 0.7-mile hike up Diamond Head is considered a moderate climb and takes about an hour to reach the summit, and half that time for the return. The trail climbs the inside slope of Diamond Head for about 0.6 miles. It’s a switchback trail with the mountain on one side and a railing on the other. After a lookout point that doubles as a rest stop, the trail takes a steep upward ascent through a series of stairs and tunnels. The last set of stairs is a 99-step climb—just take it slow and steady—that eventually leads to a World War II bunker. From there, the stairs reach an end and you step up to some of the finest panoramic views on Oahu. We took a short walk around and savored the moment. The day was clear and in the distance we could see the island of Molokai. Standing atop the lookout, viewing Oahu’s entire leeward side, feeling the trade winds and hearing waves crashing far below, you can’t help but feel humbled to be on this glorious island.
Tip: Go in the early morning or late afternoon if you want to avoid potential crowds.
After a light lunch Alice and I thought it was time to have a swim in the warm waters and gentle swell of Waikiki. My thoughts are that the stretch of sand adjacent to the statue of Duke Kahanamoku is the most ideal spot for a swim. The Duke was an Olympic swimming gold medalist and is widely credited with popularizing the ancient Hawaiian sport of surfing. A patch of sand to place our towels was difficult to find but we finally secured a patch a few rows back from the surf. This is the place to come if you want to learn to surf as it is a gentle wave that starts to form right out the back and has enough power to get you moving. You can swim out for over 100 metres and still touch the bottom. The most dangerous place here is right on the beach as the waves break on the shoreline. After a relaxing swim it was back to the hotel for a mini-break before heading out for dinner.
Julie chose tonight’s destination the Waikiki Sky Lounge after reading a review in the good old Sunday Mail. The lounge is on the 19th floor of Sky Waikiki and as we found out from the surly hostess it is best to have a reservation even if you arrive at 5:00pm. On the deck, you have an almost-360 degree view of Waikiki, including views of the ocean, Diamond Head, Waikiki Beach and the famous, pink Royal Hawaiian hotel. Buildings block some of the dazzling sunset, but you’ll forget about that once the sun goes down and the city’s twinkling lights turn on around you while breathing the fresh air. Surprisingly, that given the view the drinks were reasonably priced. The staff were quite good but on principle we did not leave a tip due to the attitude of the hostess.
Wednesday, 25th November – Pearl Harbor and Swap Meet
We were up bright and early this morning as we are planning to catch public transport out to Pearl Harbor. Alice isn’t 100 percent today so has decided to recuperate at the hotel. Good weather again today so Tony, Julie and I boarded bus 42 (also No.20) at 7:00am and arrived at Pearl right on 8:00am. This coincided with the playing of the National Anthem and out of respect we joined the Americans who were paying homage to the flag. I lined up for tickets and managed to get us on the 8:45am tour. Entry to Pearl Harbor and the 75 minute tour of the USS Arizona Memorial are free. This is the number one visitor destination for Hawaii and given the history it is easy to understand why. The visitor centre features museums, theatres, wayside exhibits and panoramic views of Pearl Harbor. As you travel by launch to the memorial the battleship USS Missouri can be seen in the background. The Arizona Memorial is built over the remains of the sunken battleship USS Arizona, the final resting place for many of the 1,177 crewmen killed on December 7, 1941 when their ship was bombed by Japanese Naval Forces. The tour is a very poignant and emotional reminder of what was a horrific time in our history. As a reminder Darwin was bombed by the Japanese on 19th February, 1942. You could easily spend the whole day here as there is plenty to see with the Missouri and Blowfin exhibits.
After completing our tour of Pearl Harbor we hopped on Shanks’ Pony for ten minutes and dropped in at the Aloha Stadium for the Wednesday Swap meet. We could have caught the bus but it was only two stops up the road. Since 1979, the Aloha Stadium Swap Meet has become Hawaii's premier outdoor market, featuring over 400 vendors, crafters, artists from all over the world, a true melting pot of Aloha.
Thursday, 26th November – Thanksgiving and Circle Tour
When we awoke this morning I couldn’t believe the weather. Yes it is promising to rain on Thanksgiving Day and ruin our day out to the North Shore. After picking up our Chrysler 300 series from Dollar Rentals (If renting a car in Hawaii I would recommend using https://www.hawaiidiscount.com/rental-cars.htm) we picked up the girls and headed in an anticlockwise direction from Waikiki.
The rain is currently holding off so we were able to get a nice view of the Diamond Head Lighthouse from the roadside lookout below the crater. There were a few police cars about but they were doing point duty for what appeared to be a half marathon. Judging by the caliber of runners a few of them should have stayed at home.
With Julie providing the navigation we found our way onto route 72, the Kalaniannaole Highway, try saying that with a mouthful of dry weet-bix. Along the way we stopped off at
· Koko Crater View Point
· Hanauma Bay which is supposed to be a great snorkeling area. There is a $1 charge for vehicles and $7.50 per person. We didn’t avail ourselves of this option as the weather was beginning to get dirty.
· Molokai Lookout
· Halona Blowhole – don’t know if you need big waves to set it off but I’ve seen more smoke from one of my mate Gene’s cigarettes
At the end of route 72 we hung a right onto route 61, Kailua Road so we could have a look at what is supposed to be the best beach on the island. A couple of wrong turns later I thought that I was in Forest Lake with all the cul-de-sacs and roads that turned into each other. Just to top it off there was even a man-made lake. We never did find the beach but Julie did manage to get us onto the H3 and then route 83, the Kamehameha Highway. Alice and Tony were starting to get a bit growly as they both needed some caffeine. We decided to stop for a brew at Kahana but alas like the Polynesian Cultural Centre and the Shrimp Shack it was closed for Thanksgiving. By this time the rain was coming down in torrents and driving was becoming more difficult.
Eventually we spotted a lone roadside diner that had a flashing neon sign in red declaring that it was open. Keneke’s Grill at Punaluu was a godsend in more ways than one. The food was reasonably priced and delicious but what tickled our fantasy was that the entire wall of the dining area was covered in quotes from various bible scriptures. After lunch and a few kilometres up the road we came upon the first of quite a few Shrimp Trucks which are an institution on the North Shore. I couldn’t come all this way without trying some of these tasty crustaceans. The lucky recipient of our $US13 was Fumi’s who cooked up some rice and about 10 prawns in butter and garlic. I reckon we all had great garlic breath after that feed. Tony and Julie also opted for the Dole Pineapple whip ice-cream. I was doing a little bus spotting so on a whim I followed the number 52 into the Turtle Bay Resort. The golf course was immaculate and had the requisite 5 star hotel attached. There were also condominiums butting up against the fairways. I think you would need a pretty penny to stay here.
Finally we reached Hawaii’s big wave area and our first stop was Sunset Beach which appeared to be hosting a leg of the world surfing tour. Even with the rain pelting down finding a parking space was difficult. Alice and Julie braved the wind and the rain and reported that a few brave souls were out testing their mettle against the big surf. Just up the road was the famous Banzai Pipeline and I had a look at the surf which was big but not huge. The lifeguards were on duty but they only had to keep their eyes on a couple of guys.
Further up the road was the turnoff for Waimea Valley and waterfall which we decided to bypass in favour of Waiimea Bay. Surprisingly, there was very little swell and not a soul swimming. At every beach park there were Hawaiian families doing their best to celebrate Thanksgiving. Most of them were stuck under gazebos but one hardy bunch was having a game of volley ball or should I say mud ball. By this time we had just about had enough but we soldiered on to the historic hamlet of Haleiwa. Just about everything was shut so we headed off to route 99, Kamehameha Highway in search of the Dole Pineapple Plantation. The place was jam packed with Japanese tourists who could not get enough of the food and the pineapple inspired souvenirs. My impression was that it was like the old big pineapple at Nambour but with bigger crowds. On a fine day you could have boarded the pineapple express for a tour of the plantation or tried your luck navigating your way through the world’s biggest maze.
Tony and I consider ourselves sensitive new aged guys who are tuned in on the same wavelength as our wives. With this in mind we pointed the Chrysler 300 in the direction of the Waikele Premium Outlet for a last assault on the specials. We arrived just after 4:00pm which was perfect timing as stores like Old Navy were just opening their doors for “Black Friday” specials. The majority of stores will be opening all night and I mean all night and will finally close at midnight on Friday. The girls did manage to acquire a couple of more items. Next sensitive stop was at the Ross Dress For Less located near the Ala Moana Shopping Centre. The girls decided that they would get in early on all the specials so Tony and I left them to their own devices and headed back to Waikiki to return the hire car. It was still raining so we caught the free Dollar shuttle back to the Food Pantry for some supplies. We entertained ourselves with a couple of beers whilst watching all the action unfolding on the street below us. A little after 9:00pm we saw the girls walking down the street carrying more goods than a Sherpa on the Annapurna trail. After showing off their booty it was time for bed and some well earned shut-eye.
Friday, 27th November – Black Friday, Waikiki
This is our penultimate day in Hawaii so we decided to do virtually nothing. Nothing naturally included another trip to Ross, Macy’s and Victoria Secret. I actually came away with the best purchase of the entire trip. At the Ross store I spent $3.99 and came away with a Danos Direct type product. You have probably guessed that it was the “Potato Express” which is used for cooking potatoes in the microwave oven. Yep 4 potatoes can be cooked to perfection in 6 to 8 minutes. www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QTQD354JJc
Tony and I returned to the hotel and the girls said that they would be back soon after. We decided that a swim down near the statue of the Duke would be beneficial to our health. Unlike yesterday the sun was out and so were the sand worshippers. We managed to find a place for our personal gear and spent a good hour just swimming and floating about. To finish off we took a walk around the streets and discovered that you could hire Paddle Boards and Surf Boards at a cheaper rate from the stores about a block back from the beach. Carrying a board an extra block is not a great imposition if it saves you a few dollars whilst giving you a little extra exercise. Back at the hotel and still no sign of the girls. They eventually returned and once again were fully laden. Julie has also made a good decision to purchase a large suitcase from our old friend Ross to ensure that she can transport all our goodies home.
Our last meal tonight is a roast dinner cooked by Julie in her apartment. Tony and I assisted by purchasing some champagne and beers to celebrate what has been a fabulous trip. The meal was delicious and the company even better.
Saturday, 28th November – Homeward Bound
This morning Alice and I decided to treat ourselves to the breakfast special at the Seaside Bar and Grill. As much as I enjoyed the breakfast I find that it is near nigh impossible to consume two huge pancakes on top of bacon and two eggs done easy over. After breakfast we had a last little walk around the shopping precinct before heading back to the hotel to finish packing.
We have pre-booked our Star Taxi for 11:15am for our trip to the Honolulu International Airport. http://www.startaxihawaii.com/ At a cost of $US30 for the four of us it is good value. Our flight is not until 2:35pm so we should have plenty of time to pass through the rigors of Airport Security. The driver was a little early so we ended up at the airport about 3 hours before departure. The check-in line for Hawaiian Airlines looked horrendous but fortunately for us that was for domestic travel. Tip- Allow at least two hours for check-in and security if you are flying domestic out of Honolulu. The international check-in was much more civilized and I estimate that it took only about 25 minutes to complete that process as well as security. The airport seems to be poorly laid out as we had to walk quite a distance to another terminal building to find our departure gate. With a little time to kill before boarding we headed our separate ways for a spot of lunch.
The plane started boarding just before 2:00pm and wasn’t quite full. We have once again been allocated our exit aisle seat which will make it a more relaxing flight home. We really recommend spending the extra $110 to secure one of these berths. Our take-off was spot on time for our 10 hour flight home to Australia. Somewhere before the international dateline Tony and I caught up at the rear of the aircraft for a couple of wines and idle chit-chat. The steward did not need any cajoling to top up our plastic wineglass. Actually, the service from the on-board staff is excellent. A spot of turbulence sent us scurrying back to our seats and another movie.
Sunday, 29th November – Home
One minute it is Saturday and the next it is Sunday and so it goes when you cross the dateline towards Australia. The rest of the flight was uneventful as we cruised towards Brisbane. Touchdown and that feeling of being home starts to overwhelm you. Apart from sitting on the tarmac for 45 minutes after landing it was a good trip. No hassles with immigration apart from Julie and Alice being unrecognizable on their E-Passports (Tip – don’t forget to remove your glasses from your face or top of your head if they are not on the passport photo). No problems either with the baggage or customs. The other nice thing about traveling is when you are met at the airport by family or friends. On this occasion it was Jemma who had volunteered to pick-up the ‘rents’ and it brought a tear to the old boy’s eyes as she gave each of us a welcome home hug.
It is a little like Groundhog Day as Tony and I have had bacon, fried eggs and pork beans for breakfast followed by another workout at the gym. The girls went off for Pilates and an aqua fitness class. I must be enjoying the holiday as I made the mistake of jumping on the scales at the gym. To my chagrin I’ve added another 3kg in under three weeks.
I spent most of the afternoon trying to work out the most economical way for us to travel from KoOlina to Waikiki. Julie ended up finding a site for star taxis which is a discount taxi company. I called them and they quoted $US80 for the trip which is much cheaper than all the other options. I booked the trip and will probably use them for our transfer to the airport from Waikiki as they only charge $US30. www.startaxihawaii.com
The romantic sunset on the beach has been relegated to the back burner as the rain god has chosen to open up the heavens this afternoon. Alice and I stayed in doors but Tony and Julie backed up for a line dancing or boot scooting class. They returned looking all sweaty but a champagne and a beer perked them up. Dinner tonight is at the hotel’s longboard restaurant. There was no need to book as the rain is keeping everybody away including the local entertainer. The food was just okay but the atmosphere made up for it.
Friday, 20th November – Who’ll Stop The Rain
There was no need to hurry out of bed this morning as it is still raining. We checked out of our room at 10:00am and Julie arranged for our bags to be stored and a pass so that we could use the facilities. Tony and I hit the gym again however the girls had to be content with slumming it in the hot tub as all outdoor activities have been cancelled due to the rain.
There were some indoor activities available so Tony and Julie signed up for some Ukulele lessons whilst Alice and I contented ourselves with some light reading. Tony returned with a good understanding of the requisite skills he needed to be a player. Fortunately, for us he did not burst into a rendition of Tiny Tim’s “Tip Toe Through The Tulips”. Our Star Taxi arrived at 2:00pm and it comfortably fitted us all in and had ample room for our luggage. The driver did inform us that the company gets many calls from Australia for airport pickups. All you have to do is contact them the day before you fly out, give them your relevant flight details etc and they will meet you at the airport.
The trip to Waikiki was uneventful and took just under an hour. Our salubrious lodgings will be the not so five star budget Holiday Surf Hotel. It is located about a 10 minute walk to the beach and is next to the Ala Wai Canal on the very busy Ala Wai Boulevard. Our budget price of approximately $US95 per night isn’t too bad as our rooms have a reasonable kitchen with basic utensils. The only downside is that the noise emanating from the vehicular traffic is exacerbated by the squelching rubber on the wet tarmac. Our only solution was to crank up the air conditioner to drown out the noise.
The hotel staff are very helpful and pointed us in the direction of a reasonably sized and priced supermarket. We purchased enough supplies to last us a few days but Tony and I had to return to ensure we had enough beer for our evening respite. When it was time for bed I thought that I had not turned off the light. I then realized that we have a street light directly outside our third storey window which throws a bright yellow light through our threadbare curtains. Fortunately we both managed to drop off to sleep without the usual tossin’ and turnin’.
Saturday, 21st November – Waikiki
This morning we caught up with Sue and Russell at the Outrigger Waikiki Hotel for a look at the Ukulele Guild of Hawaii’s annual exhibition. Some of the instruments that were on display were works of art and were for sale for over $US2000. There were also some groups playing traditional Hawaiian songs accompanied by singers old and young. The rain had eased off so we took a long walk along the shoreline passing the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, U.S. Army museum and the Hilton Hawaiian Village. The latter sits next to the Ala Wai Yacht Club and is a huge complex with its own beach and private lagoon which appears to be well favoured by blushing Japanese brides.
The weather was still quite ordinary so the girls decided that some shop trolling would be a good way to spend some time. Tony and I being perfect husbands quickly acquiesced to their very reasonable request. From the yacht club it was only a short walk to the huge Ala Moana Shopping Centre. We knew that we were on the right path as we could see other tourists happily toting bargains back to their hotels in well filled Macy bags. After a spot of lunch in the food court we bid the girls farewell and set off for a leisurely stroll around the shops. We soon became bored but had a knowing laugh when we saw all the other men sitting in the suffering seats. Tony was looking a tad disheveled and went looking for a barber. He found one that was doing a brisk business which was either a good indication that it was cheap or they were good at their work. With his decision made he entered the shop and was soon in the hands of the world’s oldest hairdressers. She was probably cutting hair when Pearl Harbor was bombed. I was in fear for his ears as I had grave doubts that she could still hold the scissors with a steady hand. Nevertheless his ears remained intact and he emerged looking more handsome than ever. For three hours worth of shopping the girls returned with surprisingly little merchandise. Well there is always tomorrow!
Meanwhile back at the hotel we have freshened ourselves up and are ready to meet Sue and Russell at the Waolina Cocktail Lounge for a pre-dinner cocktail. Russell chose this place as the happy hour runs from noon until six in the evening. The beers were $2, Mai Tai’s $4 and the service terrible. In the hour that we were there we did manage to get two beers. Afterwards we took a long walk back to the Outrigger Hotel for a dinner with the Ukulele Guild. The buffet dinner was good and Tony could not resist going back for seconds as there was so much food leftover. His only mistake was that he did not have a knife or fork as they had already been taken away. Luckily, Sue had a set of used utensils which did the trick. The highlight of the evening was the concert that featured highly skilled Ukulele players who tested their abilities on instruments that were constructed by guild members. It was interesting to have a brief synopsis of the different materials used in construction and the sound that they were trying to achieve. A Japanese maker used a Vienna spruce that was harvested on a full moon light. Apparently that has an impact on the amount of moisture in the timber. A great night, with great music and a perfect way to end the day.
Sunday, 22nd November – Waikiki Rain
Well our walk up to Diamond Head is definitely cancelled for today as it is bucketing down. All this rain is a little unusual so the girls decided that they would check out a few of the local shops. Tony and I dropped them off at the Ross, Dress for Less store with instructions to meet us for lunch at 1:00pm at the Long Yard bar for a late lunch. With the rain pelting down Tony and I headed for some covered walkways which are few and far between on the streets of Waikiki in search of a hot coffee. After all we did not want to start too early at the Long Yard. Eventually we found a good coffee brew house and managed to kill an hour or so by people watching. When the clock struck twelve we headed straight to the bar and pulled up a stool with a good view of the street. There are about 150 beers on tap so we decided to try an IPA sampler. There were six small beers to sample and at a fraction over $US10 reasonable value. The following will be of interest to beer drinkers only and is a small description of our two favourites.
1. Breakside Wunderlust IPA 6.4% from Portland – A golden IPA made with 5 different hops, intense grapefruit and dank notes with a crisp finish.
2. Rouge Farms 7 Hop IPA 8% from Oregon – utilizes all 7 hops grown in the hopyard of Rouge Farms. This blend is then added to 3 varieties of Rouge Farms malt and brewed with free range Oregon costal waters.
As we were finishing off the tasting Alice arrived without any purchases. Fifteen minutes later Julie also arrived in a similar vein. It turns out that they had bought so much booty that they had to return to the hotel. The girls quickly ordered a cocktail and placed an order for lunch. The still thirsty boys were hooked on the IPA so an order for a half yard of Deschutes Inversion IPA was placed. We were still drinking that beastie long after devouring our lunch. As discriminating hop heads and at 6.8% this big, bold IPA’s intense multi-hop kick gets a subtle dose of restraint from select Munich and Caramel malts. As you can tell we think this is an amazing beer.
Back at the hotel the four of us combined our food resources and had a nice cheap dinner which was followed by a reasonably early night.
Monday, 23rd November – Big Fat Rain and Waikele Premium Outlet
The rain is still coming down but the girls are undaunted as they are booked on a Roberts Bus Shuttle ($US15 return) which is leaving Waikiki at 9:30am. We don’t expect them to return until after 6:00pm which means we have a free day. Around 10:30 and in between downpours we caught up with Russell and went for a stroll around Waikiki looking for a coffee shop that had a spare table with dry seats. After much searching we ended up down near the Long Yard and enjoyed a nice strong latte. With the rain still tumbling down we decided that it was time to have a salty dip in the briny waters of Waikiki. After all we couldn’t get any wetter. The water was warm but the area where we chose to swim was full of rocks of all sizes. It wasn’t too deep but you couldn’t see the bottom as the stormy weather had churned up the sand. We lasted for about fifteen minutes which also gave us the opportunity for a code yellow.
Russell had some business to catch up on so we left him to his own devices. We still had a couple of steaks in the refrigerator so a steak sandwich was the order of the day. A quick bus trip and the purchase of a new pair of runners filled in the afternoon. Russell had promised us a couple of beers so we headed up to his hotel. A large Hawaiian woman was on duty so we told her we were here to visit Mr. Russell in room 401. This was when our Basil Fawlty moment occurred. She then asked if we wanted a room. No, I want to visit Russell I replied. What is your room number she said. I don’t have a room, I’m only visiting…. This went backwards and forwards like an old tape recording. Eventually, she looked at the register and said Sue room 206. Seems like Sue was the magic word and Russell does not know his room number!
Anyhow we made it to the room and killed a couple of beers whilst looking out the window in anticipation of the girls return. Being impeccable husbands we decided to meet them at the drop off point to assist them in the carriage of the recently purchased chattels. After waiting for more than 45 minutes we gave up and adjourned to a bar across the road. We had no sooner sat down for a drink when they were spotted walking up the street clutching an array of bags which included Victoria Secret. The bus had apparently dropped them outside the store so they justifiably had spent the last 45 minutes there. We decided to try dinner some Udon Noodles for dinner and chose Marukame Udon Restaurant (Address: 2310 Kuhio Ave). There is always a queue outside which is testament to its popularity and value for money. The wait in line is relatively short as the diners move on once they have eaten. Guests order at the counter at this casual Japanese restaurant specializing in noodle soup. It is not a place for chatting or sipping slowly on a glass of wine. I’m not a fan of noodles but the general opinion was that the food was excellent.
Back at Sue and Russell’s the girls displayed all of the bargains that they had purchased. Alice also did a little shimmy wearing her Victoria Secret outfit. No more to be said about that!
Tuesday, 24th November – Diamond Head
The weather has finally cleared up so after breakfast we jumped on the number 23 bus (number 2 also available) and headed up to Diamond Head ($1 admission) to hike around the crater and the top of the rim. We arrived at the drop off point about 15 minutes later. It was only mid-morning but given the good weather it seemed that every tourist was out to hike the trail. There’s just something empowering about walking up the side of an extinct volcano. More than 3,500 feet in diameter with a 760-foot summit, Diamond Head in Waikiki is perhaps the world’s most recognized volcanic crater. It is a lasting remnant of a volcanic explosion that occurred about 500,000 years ago. Ancient Hawaiians called it Laeahi, which translates to “brow of the tuna.” The name “Diamond Head” can be traced to the 1800s, when British sailors mistakenly thought there were diamonds lodged in the crater’s soil. The “diamonds” turned out to be calcite crystals embedded in the lava rock.
The 0.7-mile hike up Diamond Head is considered a moderate climb and takes about an hour to reach the summit, and half that time for the return. The trail climbs the inside slope of Diamond Head for about 0.6 miles. It’s a switchback trail with the mountain on one side and a railing on the other. After a lookout point that doubles as a rest stop, the trail takes a steep upward ascent through a series of stairs and tunnels. The last set of stairs is a 99-step climb—just take it slow and steady—that eventually leads to a World War II bunker. From there, the stairs reach an end and you step up to some of the finest panoramic views on Oahu. We took a short walk around and savored the moment. The day was clear and in the distance we could see the island of Molokai. Standing atop the lookout, viewing Oahu’s entire leeward side, feeling the trade winds and hearing waves crashing far below, you can’t help but feel humbled to be on this glorious island.
Tip: Go in the early morning or late afternoon if you want to avoid potential crowds.
After a light lunch Alice and I thought it was time to have a swim in the warm waters and gentle swell of Waikiki. My thoughts are that the stretch of sand adjacent to the statue of Duke Kahanamoku is the most ideal spot for a swim. The Duke was an Olympic swimming gold medalist and is widely credited with popularizing the ancient Hawaiian sport of surfing. A patch of sand to place our towels was difficult to find but we finally secured a patch a few rows back from the surf. This is the place to come if you want to learn to surf as it is a gentle wave that starts to form right out the back and has enough power to get you moving. You can swim out for over 100 metres and still touch the bottom. The most dangerous place here is right on the beach as the waves break on the shoreline. After a relaxing swim it was back to the hotel for a mini-break before heading out for dinner.
Julie chose tonight’s destination the Waikiki Sky Lounge after reading a review in the good old Sunday Mail. The lounge is on the 19th floor of Sky Waikiki and as we found out from the surly hostess it is best to have a reservation even if you arrive at 5:00pm. On the deck, you have an almost-360 degree view of Waikiki, including views of the ocean, Diamond Head, Waikiki Beach and the famous, pink Royal Hawaiian hotel. Buildings block some of the dazzling sunset, but you’ll forget about that once the sun goes down and the city’s twinkling lights turn on around you while breathing the fresh air. Surprisingly, that given the view the drinks were reasonably priced. The staff were quite good but on principle we did not leave a tip due to the attitude of the hostess.
Wednesday, 25th November – Pearl Harbor and Swap Meet
We were up bright and early this morning as we are planning to catch public transport out to Pearl Harbor. Alice isn’t 100 percent today so has decided to recuperate at the hotel. Good weather again today so Tony, Julie and I boarded bus 42 (also No.20) at 7:00am and arrived at Pearl right on 8:00am. This coincided with the playing of the National Anthem and out of respect we joined the Americans who were paying homage to the flag. I lined up for tickets and managed to get us on the 8:45am tour. Entry to Pearl Harbor and the 75 minute tour of the USS Arizona Memorial are free. This is the number one visitor destination for Hawaii and given the history it is easy to understand why. The visitor centre features museums, theatres, wayside exhibits and panoramic views of Pearl Harbor. As you travel by launch to the memorial the battleship USS Missouri can be seen in the background. The Arizona Memorial is built over the remains of the sunken battleship USS Arizona, the final resting place for many of the 1,177 crewmen killed on December 7, 1941 when their ship was bombed by Japanese Naval Forces. The tour is a very poignant and emotional reminder of what was a horrific time in our history. As a reminder Darwin was bombed by the Japanese on 19th February, 1942. You could easily spend the whole day here as there is plenty to see with the Missouri and Blowfin exhibits.
After completing our tour of Pearl Harbor we hopped on Shanks’ Pony for ten minutes and dropped in at the Aloha Stadium for the Wednesday Swap meet. We could have caught the bus but it was only two stops up the road. Since 1979, the Aloha Stadium Swap Meet has become Hawaii's premier outdoor market, featuring over 400 vendors, crafters, artists from all over the world, a true melting pot of Aloha.
Thursday, 26th November – Thanksgiving and Circle Tour
When we awoke this morning I couldn’t believe the weather. Yes it is promising to rain on Thanksgiving Day and ruin our day out to the North Shore. After picking up our Chrysler 300 series from Dollar Rentals (If renting a car in Hawaii I would recommend using https://www.hawaiidiscount.com/rental-cars.htm) we picked up the girls and headed in an anticlockwise direction from Waikiki.
The rain is currently holding off so we were able to get a nice view of the Diamond Head Lighthouse from the roadside lookout below the crater. There were a few police cars about but they were doing point duty for what appeared to be a half marathon. Judging by the caliber of runners a few of them should have stayed at home.
With Julie providing the navigation we found our way onto route 72, the Kalaniannaole Highway, try saying that with a mouthful of dry weet-bix. Along the way we stopped off at
· Koko Crater View Point
· Hanauma Bay which is supposed to be a great snorkeling area. There is a $1 charge for vehicles and $7.50 per person. We didn’t avail ourselves of this option as the weather was beginning to get dirty.
· Molokai Lookout
· Halona Blowhole – don’t know if you need big waves to set it off but I’ve seen more smoke from one of my mate Gene’s cigarettes
At the end of route 72 we hung a right onto route 61, Kailua Road so we could have a look at what is supposed to be the best beach on the island. A couple of wrong turns later I thought that I was in Forest Lake with all the cul-de-sacs and roads that turned into each other. Just to top it off there was even a man-made lake. We never did find the beach but Julie did manage to get us onto the H3 and then route 83, the Kamehameha Highway. Alice and Tony were starting to get a bit growly as they both needed some caffeine. We decided to stop for a brew at Kahana but alas like the Polynesian Cultural Centre and the Shrimp Shack it was closed for Thanksgiving. By this time the rain was coming down in torrents and driving was becoming more difficult.
Eventually we spotted a lone roadside diner that had a flashing neon sign in red declaring that it was open. Keneke’s Grill at Punaluu was a godsend in more ways than one. The food was reasonably priced and delicious but what tickled our fantasy was that the entire wall of the dining area was covered in quotes from various bible scriptures. After lunch and a few kilometres up the road we came upon the first of quite a few Shrimp Trucks which are an institution on the North Shore. I couldn’t come all this way without trying some of these tasty crustaceans. The lucky recipient of our $US13 was Fumi’s who cooked up some rice and about 10 prawns in butter and garlic. I reckon we all had great garlic breath after that feed. Tony and Julie also opted for the Dole Pineapple whip ice-cream. I was doing a little bus spotting so on a whim I followed the number 52 into the Turtle Bay Resort. The golf course was immaculate and had the requisite 5 star hotel attached. There were also condominiums butting up against the fairways. I think you would need a pretty penny to stay here.
Finally we reached Hawaii’s big wave area and our first stop was Sunset Beach which appeared to be hosting a leg of the world surfing tour. Even with the rain pelting down finding a parking space was difficult. Alice and Julie braved the wind and the rain and reported that a few brave souls were out testing their mettle against the big surf. Just up the road was the famous Banzai Pipeline and I had a look at the surf which was big but not huge. The lifeguards were on duty but they only had to keep their eyes on a couple of guys.
Further up the road was the turnoff for Waimea Valley and waterfall which we decided to bypass in favour of Waiimea Bay. Surprisingly, there was very little swell and not a soul swimming. At every beach park there were Hawaiian families doing their best to celebrate Thanksgiving. Most of them were stuck under gazebos but one hardy bunch was having a game of volley ball or should I say mud ball. By this time we had just about had enough but we soldiered on to the historic hamlet of Haleiwa. Just about everything was shut so we headed off to route 99, Kamehameha Highway in search of the Dole Pineapple Plantation. The place was jam packed with Japanese tourists who could not get enough of the food and the pineapple inspired souvenirs. My impression was that it was like the old big pineapple at Nambour but with bigger crowds. On a fine day you could have boarded the pineapple express for a tour of the plantation or tried your luck navigating your way through the world’s biggest maze.
Tony and I consider ourselves sensitive new aged guys who are tuned in on the same wavelength as our wives. With this in mind we pointed the Chrysler 300 in the direction of the Waikele Premium Outlet for a last assault on the specials. We arrived just after 4:00pm which was perfect timing as stores like Old Navy were just opening their doors for “Black Friday” specials. The majority of stores will be opening all night and I mean all night and will finally close at midnight on Friday. The girls did manage to acquire a couple of more items. Next sensitive stop was at the Ross Dress For Less located near the Ala Moana Shopping Centre. The girls decided that they would get in early on all the specials so Tony and I left them to their own devices and headed back to Waikiki to return the hire car. It was still raining so we caught the free Dollar shuttle back to the Food Pantry for some supplies. We entertained ourselves with a couple of beers whilst watching all the action unfolding on the street below us. A little after 9:00pm we saw the girls walking down the street carrying more goods than a Sherpa on the Annapurna trail. After showing off their booty it was time for bed and some well earned shut-eye.
Friday, 27th November – Black Friday, Waikiki
This is our penultimate day in Hawaii so we decided to do virtually nothing. Nothing naturally included another trip to Ross, Macy’s and Victoria Secret. I actually came away with the best purchase of the entire trip. At the Ross store I spent $3.99 and came away with a Danos Direct type product. You have probably guessed that it was the “Potato Express” which is used for cooking potatoes in the microwave oven. Yep 4 potatoes can be cooked to perfection in 6 to 8 minutes. www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QTQD354JJc
Tony and I returned to the hotel and the girls said that they would be back soon after. We decided that a swim down near the statue of the Duke would be beneficial to our health. Unlike yesterday the sun was out and so were the sand worshippers. We managed to find a place for our personal gear and spent a good hour just swimming and floating about. To finish off we took a walk around the streets and discovered that you could hire Paddle Boards and Surf Boards at a cheaper rate from the stores about a block back from the beach. Carrying a board an extra block is not a great imposition if it saves you a few dollars whilst giving you a little extra exercise. Back at the hotel and still no sign of the girls. They eventually returned and once again were fully laden. Julie has also made a good decision to purchase a large suitcase from our old friend Ross to ensure that she can transport all our goodies home.
Our last meal tonight is a roast dinner cooked by Julie in her apartment. Tony and I assisted by purchasing some champagne and beers to celebrate what has been a fabulous trip. The meal was delicious and the company even better.
Saturday, 28th November – Homeward Bound
This morning Alice and I decided to treat ourselves to the breakfast special at the Seaside Bar and Grill. As much as I enjoyed the breakfast I find that it is near nigh impossible to consume two huge pancakes on top of bacon and two eggs done easy over. After breakfast we had a last little walk around the shopping precinct before heading back to the hotel to finish packing.
We have pre-booked our Star Taxi for 11:15am for our trip to the Honolulu International Airport. http://www.startaxihawaii.com/ At a cost of $US30 for the four of us it is good value. Our flight is not until 2:35pm so we should have plenty of time to pass through the rigors of Airport Security. The driver was a little early so we ended up at the airport about 3 hours before departure. The check-in line for Hawaiian Airlines looked horrendous but fortunately for us that was for domestic travel. Tip- Allow at least two hours for check-in and security if you are flying domestic out of Honolulu. The international check-in was much more civilized and I estimate that it took only about 25 minutes to complete that process as well as security. The airport seems to be poorly laid out as we had to walk quite a distance to another terminal building to find our departure gate. With a little time to kill before boarding we headed our separate ways for a spot of lunch.
The plane started boarding just before 2:00pm and wasn’t quite full. We have once again been allocated our exit aisle seat which will make it a more relaxing flight home. We really recommend spending the extra $110 to secure one of these berths. Our take-off was spot on time for our 10 hour flight home to Australia. Somewhere before the international dateline Tony and I caught up at the rear of the aircraft for a couple of wines and idle chit-chat. The steward did not need any cajoling to top up our plastic wineglass. Actually, the service from the on-board staff is excellent. A spot of turbulence sent us scurrying back to our seats and another movie.
Sunday, 29th November – Home
One minute it is Saturday and the next it is Sunday and so it goes when you cross the dateline towards Australia. The rest of the flight was uneventful as we cruised towards Brisbane. Touchdown and that feeling of being home starts to overwhelm you. Apart from sitting on the tarmac for 45 minutes after landing it was a good trip. No hassles with immigration apart from Julie and Alice being unrecognizable on their E-Passports (Tip – don’t forget to remove your glasses from your face or top of your head if they are not on the passport photo). No problems either with the baggage or customs. The other nice thing about traveling is when you are met at the airport by family or friends. On this occasion it was Jemma who had volunteered to pick-up the ‘rents’ and it brought a tear to the old boy’s eyes as she gave each of us a welcome home hug.
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