David and Tony in Love Valley

Sunday 24th October – Olympos

A great breakfast and in the light of day still a great setting. The sky is blue and yet again we are lucky as it only stopped raining two days ago. After catching up on a few housekeeping duties it was time to head for the beach. The walk down was fairy tale pretty. Set inside a deep shaded valley that runs directly to the sea you pass by the ruins of the old Lycian city. As you reach the beach you can spot fortresses along the cliff tops that were built in the middle ages by the Venetians, Genoese and Rhodeans.

The long pebble beach is situated on a curved bay and you can get some shelter from the sun by sitting at the base of the limestone cliffs. The water was warm and I can imagine that it would be a top place in the heat of summer. Tony and I are maintaining peak fitness by swimming a few hundred metres. The difficult part is when you exit the water because the bank is steep and made of pebbles. Tony looked like he had been washed ashore after he took an eternity to get out.

The others decided to head back to the tree houses while I went exploring the ruins. I felt like a modern day Indiana Jones as the ruins appear undiscovered among wild grapevines, bay trees, wild figs and pine trees. I followed the right side of a stream listening to the birds and fogs without anybody in sight. There was an old Roman theatre, baths, necropolis and tombs. After all this effort a rest was in order so back to the others I trudged.

After dinner tonight we embarked on a tour to Chimaera which is also known as the Burning Rock. It is basically a cluster of flames that blaze spontaneously from crevices on the rocky slopes of Mt Olympos. The site is the stuff of legends and it is not difficult to see why.

Ancient peoples attributed these extraordinary flames to the breath of a monster – part lion, part goat and part dragon. The tour did not get off to a good start as when we arrived our driver gave us a torch that emitted a beam no greater than a firefly and pointed us to a path and said only one kilometre. He omitted to mention that the route was steep, uneven and rocky.

When we finally reached the site there were about 20 flames burning from various areas. The gas just seeps out of the earth and bursts into flame upon contact with the air. We loitered in this ethereal place for about ten minutes before starting the treacherous descent.

By now our torches were hardly casting any light and we were lucky that the moon was full to help guide us down. Unfortunately, the path was so bad that Alice fell twice and bruised herself badly. The only saving grace that no body parts were sprained or broken. I hope she does not go to the doctor as I might be charged with wife bashing. Tony and Julie fared little better, in the fading light of their torch they missed the path and ended up going through the bush to get down. Overall it is an impressive site best done at night but you need to be prepared for the trip. A little more information prior to departing would have helped.

Monday 25th October – Antalya

Our stay at www.bayrams.com was great and all of us would have no trouble chilling out here for a few more days. A lazy morning of packing our bags and we will be off on another couple of buses to Antalya where we will stay in the old area of Kaleici which is a virtually vehicle free district.

The bus trip from Olympos to Antalya takes about one hour and travels over mountain ranges as well as hugging the coastline.

After being deposited at the Otogar (bus terminal) we jumped into a taxi for the last leg of the trip. The driver must have thought he was competing in the world rally as he ducked and weaved his way through the traffic. In no time flat we arrived at the Kaleici Lodge Hotel which is a converted Ottoman House. This is probably the best accommodation that we have stayed in so far in Turkey. One drawback is that we are about 50 metres from the local mosque which could have implications when the call to prayer is blasted out from the loudspeakers attached atop the minaret.

Alice and Julie have decided to check out the local bazaar in search of long lost treasures, handbags and shoes. Tony and I thought we would accompany them for a change. We lasted all of 15 minutes as by that time they had only traversed 20 metres of shop front.

Leaving them to their own devices we went exploring the labyrinth of the old town. You can easily get lost as you walk down and around the narrow cobblestone streets which are bordered by many fine Ottoman houses. We ended up down at the old harbour where local boys were diving off the rocks and the tourists sporting the latest swimming wear lounged on sun beds at the small beach. Dodging a few touts who tried to persuade us to take a last minute cruise on the bay at a very special price we escaped to the serenity of a harbour bar and downed a couple of Efes beers.

The girls returned and regaled us with the wonders that they had seen and the courage they displayed when passing up the trinkets that had been paraded before them. They did weaken slightly and managed to relieve some store owners of their wares. The store owners in Antalya they encountered are more aggressive than anywhere else so far in Turkey. It is difficult to even leave a shop once you have entered and some are quite rude if you don't buy. They must get a lot of German and Dutch tourists as the first greeting is always in those languages. This may or may not explain the aggressive selling tactics.

After dark we went for a walk along the waterfront and had dinner at an inexpensive restaurant overlooking the water. The food was not exceptional but the service and the view were excellent. Our waiter managed to tempt us with a glass of Raki, the traditional spirit of Turkey. It has a aniseed taste reminiscent of Ouzo but slightly better. It is best drunk when mixed with water which gives it a cloudy alkaseltzer appearance. I'm still under the weather so Alice my loving wife has taken me home to nurse me. Tony and Julie the party animals stopped at a local bar and listened to a local singer playing great songs until 1.00am.

Tuesday 26th October – Noisy Mosque

Six a clock already, I was just in the middle of a dream, I was kissing Valentino .....is all I could get to in this old Bangles classic when the loudspeakers of the nearby mosque started the morning prayer. Our sleep was shattered by 100 decibels of prayer that continued for what seemed forever but in reality was about five minutes. We did manage a little more sleep before going down for breakfast in the shaded garden area of the hotel.

The girls wanted to take Tony and I shopping for male fashion garments so we relented and joined the madding crowd. They settled on a store that had all the big names proudly displayed on dummies, not Tony and David.

I have to admit that they have good taste as we looked like fashion models decked out in the latest numbers from Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger (or is that half finger) and Armani. After being relieved of a substantial sum of Turkish Lira we headed for the harbour looking for respite in a bottle of Efes.

We all needed a rest before dinner except Julie who continued to seek out the bargains. Over dinner we started chatting to a Norwegian who casually remarked that on Wednesday there was a market which is frequented by the locals. This immediately piqued the girls interest and before long they had cajoled our waiter into writing down the directions and what stop they would need on the tram.

Wednesday 27th October – Market Day

Another blast from the minaret speakers brought us straight out of our slumber. Fortified by a hardy breakfast we made our way to the tramway and purchased our tickets for the trip.

It wasn't hard to determine which direction to walk as there was a throng of people with all manner of baskets heading towards a large covered building. The ground floor was for fruit and veges and they were doing a roaring trade. The pumpkins were so large that Alice had to take a photo.

The next floor reminded me of a scene from a movie where all the stock brokers are in a frenzy on the stock market floor buying and selling the latest dot com stock. This really got the girls juices flowing and they leaped into the fray in search of bargains.

Tony and I soon lost them among the seething wave of humanity that was surging through the aisles. We soldiered on, inspecting a few items and left the arena after being battered by strollers and elbowed by bargain hungry Turkish matriarchs. Luckily we had prearranged a meeting point and time so we adjourned to this haven to lick our wounds and take solace in a cup of tea.

Dead on time the girls triumphantly appeared weighed down with all manner of apparel. There was so much booty that they quickly decided that Julie needed to buy another suitcase. I looked after the goods as they went back in for another round of shopping. They emerged with the said suitcase plus a few, just in case, extra items.

When we returned to Kaleici I decided to try another Turkish bath and massage in an effort to shake off some of the lethargy I was feeling as a result of the cold.

I settled on a 700 year old hamam which offered the works for only 35TL. I entered the sacred domain of men where no women are allowed (a bit like the Tattersals club) and was amazed by all the white marble. I sat down on the marble seat, my modesty protected by a skimpy Turkish towel and started ladling myself like an old pro from the marble basin at my side. It was soon my turn and I was summoned to lie down on the marble bench where I took all they could give like a man.

After being washed , scrubbed, peeled and shampooed I made my way to the massage room. I can tell you that there is nothing exciting about being massaged and oiled by a balding, middle aged Turkish man who is clothed in only a towel and plastic sandals. The massage however was excellent and we worked out a few knots from my shoulders.

Emerging from the hamam feeling clean and relaxed the first person I saw was Julie with Tony in tow. She was on her way to another store to finalise her Antalya purchases which by now as you have read is substantial. Alice is not to far behind.

After the excitement of today we are resting up and enjoying a few wines before we catch a taxi to the Otogar. Once there we will board a 10.00pm overnight bus (10 hours) for the town of Goreme in the area of Cappadocia. I doubt that the trip will be like Paul Kelly's song – from St Kilda to Kings Cross spent 10 hours on a Greyhound bus. Time will tell and the result will be promulgated in tomorrow's edition.

Thursday 28th October – Fairy Chimneys

Alice who moonlights as a pharmacist was able to purchase some sleeping tablets to assist us on our journey north. After dropping one pill each we could not even stifle a yawn so another one made the journey into our bloodstream. This had the desired effect and we managed a few hours sleep. When I say we this does not include Julie who can sleep anywhere.

She managed six hours sleep and would have gotten eight if the bus had not stopped for rest breaks. Overall the journey was not too strenuous given the horrendous stories that we have heard. The roads were in good condition, the driver excellent and the bus slightly more comfortable than economy class on Emirates.

The bus pulled over a hill just before 7.00am and there below us was the village of Goreme set amid cones and pinnacles of volcanic tuff.

After being dropped at the bus station we hired a taxi to take us to our hotel (www.kelebekhotel.com) which was a mere five minutes away. The challenge was getting all of our luggage into the taxi which we managed by placing bags on our laps. The taxi driver quipped “are you sure there are only four passengers”. Given that it was only 7.30 we knew our rooms would not be ready however the management kindly stored our bags and let us sit and have breakfast on the terrace.

While we were sitting there Alice counted 36 balloons that had launched for their early morning flights. It was quite spectacular and looked like the mountains were giving birth to all these balloons. By 11.00 am we had been allocated our rooms with Tony and Julie upgraded for one night to the presidential suite. You could probably play a game of cricket in there but Julie had her mind set on running a bath and drowning herself in a sea of bubbly foam. I would hazard a guess that Tony will be in a loin cloth feeding her grapes.

Our room (No. 17 can be viewed on the website) is a cave room with plenty of space and a huge patio which overlooks the village. The one thing that is missing, as it has been at every other hotel in Turkey, is a bar fridge to keep our beer cold.

Everyone is still a little tired from the bus trip so it is a little shut eye before we venture out for an afternoon walk.

Feeling refreshed we walked downtown for a late light lunch and to check out tour prices. At the bus terminal we were approached by a Turkish tour operator whom Tony had befriended when we arrived this morning. After some wheeling and dealing with this Arthur Daley of Turkey we had booked a hot air balloon flight for an unbelievably low price of 100 Euro and an all day tour for 70TL. This was about 55 Euro cheaper than the price quoted by our hotel. All Arthur had to do was deliver and as we had paid only a deposit we were not too concerned.

A little light rain cut short our exploration but we did manage to find a market that sold beer and carried a range of the local drop. Early to bed as we have a 5.00am wake up call.

Friday 29th October – Up, Up and Away

At 3.00am there had been a big thunderstorm followed by torrential rain so we were not sure if there would be any flights. We are all awake and standing at the front of the Kelebek Hotel with the other faithful who have booked flights with other companies. I'm not sure if the local dogs are devout Muslims because when the 5.45 call to prayer commenced they all began to howl as if there lives were in danger.

One by one the other balloon riders were picked up by various operators until only we were left standing on the pavement in the early morning light. When we had all just about given up hope Turkish Arthur pulled up in his mini van.

A short drive downtown and he pulled up outside a building and disappeared inside for what seemed an eternity. Our doubts were beginning to grow like a Kimberley king tide but he emerged with another tourist in tow. Turned out he had fallen back to sleep and they were trying to wake him. After introductions it turned out that John was an Aussie (all was forgiven) from Shorncliffe in Brisbane.

Another bumpy short ride through a few fields and we were at our launch site. It did not take us long to figure out that Turkish Arthur had changed companies and we were now flying with www.ezairballoons.com

This turned out to be in our favour as there were only nine passengers which included Turkish Arthur and his wife. These guys were really professional and despite being the last people to be picked up we were the second balloon airborne.

Our pilot soon had us drifting slowly above the fairy chimneys at a height where you could almost reach down and touch them. The wind took us over the Rose and Pigeon valleys and close to the towns of Uchisar and Urgup. The fields were laid out like a well organised patchwork quilt. Just on an hour the pilot landed us gently on the trailer in a perfect landing. I immediately dashed for the sanctuary of an olive tree before I could enjoy the celebratory glass of champagne.

Back at the hotel we dashed down a quick breakfast before heading off on the full day Green Tour which set us back 70TL.

Our first stop was a photo opportunity which gave us a wonderful panorama of the Goreme valley. Our guide told us that approximately 400 Christian churches have been discovered in the area as the landscape allowed them to hide and escape persecution from the Romans.

Back into the mini bus for a thirty minute drive to the underground city of Derinkuyu. During the 6th and 7th centuries the Persian an Arabic armies set off to vanquish the Christians, beacons were lit and the warning could travel from Jerusalem to Constantinople in hours. When the warning reached Cappadocia, the Byzantine Christians would escape into secret tunnels leading to vast underground cities.

Some 10000 people lived in Derinkuyu spending months at a time down there. This city had seven levels and we went down about 65 metres to about the fifth level. The narrow walkways lead you into the depths of the earth, through stables with handles used to tether animals, churches with altars, walls with air circulation holes and blackened kitchens with ovens.

A change of pace for our next activity as we are going for a four kilometre hike in the Ihlara Valley which is southeast of Aksaray. We are only walking a small section of this 13 km valley which scythes its way through stubby fields. Descending 360 knee jarring steps down from the tourist facility we bottomed out next to a captivating little church with great frescoes.

The valley was a favourite retreat for Byzantine monks who cut churches into the base of the towering cliffs. We followed the river which snakes between piles of boulders and a sea of greenery of Pistachio and Poplar trees which rang with birdsong. All too soon our walk ended but we were still able to admire the scenery as we lunched at the Belisirma restaurant perched on the bank of the river.

A short drive brought us to the Selime monastery which is an astonishing rock-cut structure incorporating a vast kitchen, church with a gallery and a chapel. The church had beautifully carved columns and vaults. Tony and I gave a stirring rendition of Amazing Grace which the other tourists stopped to listen to. Alice said the acoustics were so good that even I sounded credible. The fairy chimneys opposite the monastery were apparently used in one of the star wars movies.

A drive of 80km brought us to our penultimate stop which was a view of Pigeon Valley. It was named this because until recently the villagers used to keep pigeons in small caves. The droppings were used for fertilizer and as a base for the artwork used in the many churches.

The last stop was the normal trap for tourists and this time it was an Onyx factory where jewelry was manufactured. You don't have to guess who the last person out was? With a major storm brewing we headed back into town. On arrival in Goreme we were greeted with a blackout and teeming rain. I volunteered to purchase some liquid refreshments and then trudged uphill to the hotel. After a hot shower, wine, beer and a light meal it was off to bed for a well deserved rest.

Saturday 30th October – Open Air Museum

Another overcast day and as Tony who is never right has predicted rain we will venture forth to the world heritage listed Goreme Open Air Museum. The museum is an essential stop on any Cappadocian itinerary and deserves a long visit.

This site is a cluster of rock-cut churches, chapels and monasteries. As it is a Turkish long weekend there are hundreds of visitors all vying to enter the small churches, blocking the light and taking flash pictures. You follow a cobbled path which leads to all the churches. It pays to invest another 5TL for the audio tour to gain a better understanding of all the frescoes that are displayed within the churches.

Some of the churches we visited included St Basil, Apple, Chapel of St Barbara, Snake and Sandal. There is also a large refectory with a long dining table with rock-cut benches and holes for candles. The most famous church is the stunning fresco filled Dark Church.

It costs extra to enter and this is due to a costly renovation and an attempt to keep numbers down which in the long run will preserve the frescoes. When you exit the museum you can visit the Tokali Kilise (Buckle Church) which is about 50 metres down the hill. This is one of Goreme's biggest and finest churches with an underground chapel and fabulous frescoes painted in a narrative style which portray the life of Christ.

We had a short rest in the afternoon before heading off for an early evening cultural event called the Whirling Dervishes. The dance took place in a cavern and follows a mystical form of Islam. The performance represents a union with God and is like a rebirthing to reach a higher level with God.

For us the performance was interesting but a little boring. Afterwards we adjourned to a local restaurant where we indulged in a local dish called Cappadocian clay pot kebab. A casserole of various ingredients is sealed in a clay pot and then baked in the oven. The waiter breaks the seal and sometimes the pot at your table. The food was absolutely fabulous.

Sunday 31st October – Cooking and Walking

Alice and Julie have headed off for a spot of Turkish cooking at a local lady's house. The first thing they noticed was how spotless the kitchen and house were. They learned how to prepare and cook lentil soup, dolmade, stuffed capsicum and a desert called "aside". After cooking the meals they both had the pleasure of eating their creations. The verdict was a definite thumbs up.

Tony and I decided that we needed a no cost option that helped remove the ever growing calories we have been accumulating around our girth as a result of the Efes beer. We ended up walking the Love, Zemi, Red and Rose valleys.

The first valley entered was the Love Valley and it was not long before we stood erect on the summit of a small hill. Surrounding us were stacks of fairy chimneys up to 40 metres in height with conical shapes and are topped by caps of harder rock resting on pillars of softer rock. Depending on your perspective they either look like over sized mushrooms or giant phalluses, hence the name Love Valley.

Zemi valley was adjacent so we followed the gravel road which is popular with quad bikes past several farms. There were a number of flat grassy locations that would have made good camping spots. We called it quits when the track became to wet and boggy and returned back to the main road.

After a refreshing cup of apple tea we made tracks for the Red and Rose valleys. One track led us up a narrow winding gorge where hardly any sunlight penetrated. We scrambled up a couple of vertical rock faces using the hand holds that had been gouged into the rock. We turned back when the going became too tough even for a couple of old Inala boys.

Over in the next valley there were sections fenced off where farmers were growing a range of vegetables including a small plot of Marijuana plants. We had visions of the old movie Midnight Express which was set in a Turkish prison so we left the area and headed back into town for lunch. Our estimate was that we had accomplished about 10 km of walking.

Just as we were about to start eating the girls sauntered by armed with cash for another assault on the shops. They are in good spirits as they have found a shop with fixed prices that is substantially cheaper than all the others. Tony and I said that we would purchase a few drinks and that they could join us on our patio after shopping. A relaxing time was had by all but as the sun disappeared we adjourned inside to escape the cold.

Our last Cappadocia evening was spent at a restaurant called Fat Boys. The owners are a Turkish husband and Australian wife who met here while she was pack packing in the 90's. Tony and I opted for a home made meat pie with chips which we drowned in tomato sauce. A hamburger with chips for Alice and nachos for Julie rounded off a typical Aussie pub lunch. We all must be missing home - the meals were delicious.

Monday 1st November – Back to Istanbul

Woke early this morning to another beautiful day. Outside our window the sky is alive with colorful balloons hovering over the ridges and fairy chimneys in the valley. One was so close I could nearly reach out and shake hands with the passengers. After breakfast I had a chat with a blind American. I knew he was blind because he asked Tony if he was my son. Now I have to listen to Tony calling me "Dad" and him on our last trip being recognised as a Vietnam veteran. What a way to finish your last morning in Cappadocia!

Our 10.00 pickup for the airport has arrived and we are really sad to be leaving this enchanting place. As we pulled out of Goreme we could see in the distance a single snow capped mountain towering above all the others. It reminded us of pictures that we had seen of Mt Fuji in Japan.

The flight on Turkish Airlines went smoothly and they did not question the over weight luggage that Julie and Tony were trying to smuggle on board. We picked up our luggage and were soon on our prearranged pickup to the Ararat Hotel.

We were all looking forward to staying here as the location is across the road from the Blue Mosque and we were paying top Euro for the privilege.

It never pays to have high expectations as only one of our rooms was available and the manager tried to pass it off. All that was available was a small standard room which Tony aptly described as being like the “Big Tiger” gaol cells in Vietnam or smaller than Chopper Reid's gaol cell. It was a huge letdown which prompted them to look for another hotel. Alice and I were also disappointed as the room although clean is tired and rundown. To put it simply we are all slightly pissed and after even a quick look around, there are plenty of better establishments with spare rooms at this time of year for the same money.

After we stowed our luggage it was time to hit a bar to drown our sorrows. The Efes and wine was flowing freely so we thought it was prudent to have something to eat. Tony struck up a conversation,as he always does, with a couple of Swiss matrons and soon had them laughing with tales of William Tell and his arch enemy Gessler.

The waiter in an effort to keep us there gave everyone except Alice (bad seating position) a five minute massage. It worked as we ended up with a bill of 190TL. Back at the hotel I was awoken from my deep sleep by the sound of drums. I eventually worked out that there had been a performance at the bazaar across the road which luckily finished at 11.00pm.

Tuesday 2nd November – The Bosphorus

After a really good night's sleep I hit the shower hoping that it would be at least lukewarm. In fact it was scalding but the only problem was that I could not keep the knob up that diverts the water from the tap to the shower. I looked a little ridiculous soaping myself up with one hand and holding a little knob in the other.

We had a nice breakfast on the terrace overlooking the sea and the bottomless cups of tea and coffee went down well. A giant seagull who looked like it was on steroids watched us silently hoping we would drop some scraps for it. The internet is handy as I found out the winner of the Melbourne Cup was Americain who is a northern hemisphere horse. One of my regular TransLink complainants an elderly spinster named Rita Malone predicted that a horse from the north would win.

Tony and Julie moved their bags to the new hotel which is significantly better. As a group we decided to head down to the Marmara Sea and take a stroll along the boardwalk as far as the Galata Bridge which crosses the Golden Horn.

Along the way we could see the remnants of the old city wall which is in tact for quite a distance. Out on the water there was a pod of dolphins which were close to shore chasing what appeared to be a school of bait fish. Old gnarled Turkish fishermen lined the bank spinning for fish. One fellow was particularly good as he caught a couple of garfish in short time. A large fishing trawler heading for home steamed past and was being trailed by hundreds of squawking seagulls.

On arrival at the quay we were quickly accosted by a salesman offering a two hour Bosphorus cruise for 20TL. As this was something we wanted to do he had an easy sale.
Our boat departed from the Golden Horn. Tony and I could not help but think of the iconic Brisbane hairdresser, Raymond who invented the hairstyle which will never come back the Merino Horn.

The boat followed the European shoreline and we cruised at a leisurely pace past old palaces, mosques, naval submarines and a flotilla of watercraft. Along the shore there were hordes of fishermen trying their luck in the briny and people sitting in restaurants enjoying the view.

Our boat turned around at the second bridge called the Faith Sultan Mehmet. Just before the bridge the majestic structure of Rumeli Hisari (Fortress of Europe) looms over a small village. It was built in a mere four months during 1452 by Rumeli for Mehmet the Conquerer for his planned siege of Constantinople. The location is the narrowest point of the Bosphorus. Clever fellows!

We followed the Aisan shoreline back to the Golden Horn and passed a number of well preserved, frilly Ottoman-era wooden houses. These were summer houses built by the aristocracy in the 17th,18th and 19th centuries. A great little cruise which could be enhanced by having a hop on and hop off function so you could admire some of the sites at closer quarters.

As this holiday inevitably centres around our gastronomical delights I take great pleasure in telling you about an Istanbul institution – The Fish Sandwich. When we exited our cruise boat we happened upon a boat moored to the shore that had a smoky cooker fired up and loaded with fish fillets. The quick cooked fish is crammed into a quarter loaf of fresh bread and served with lettuce and onion. It set us back a mere 4TL and even I, who does not usually eat fish, declared it delicious.

As we came closer to the Galata Bridge there were loads of fish sandwich sellers. After crossing the bridge we came across a fish market selling live fish and I did notice some salmon going for 10TL a kilo. There were also a number of basic seafood restaurants doing a brisk trade and we may venture back here another day.

Public transport was looking good for our return back to Sultanahmet so we boarded a public tram that soon had us back in familiar surroundings. The girls checked out a leather shop whilst Tony and I whiled away our time street watching and sipping on a very expensive beer. The girls came out empty handed which was a pleasant surprise. We had a quick look in one of the sections of he Blue Mosque before heading back to the hotel.

We met up with Tony and Julie for dinner just after 7.00pm. Once again we ran the gauntlet of head waiters who all but drag you into their restaurants. Tony is always very polite as he explains that we are just looking and may come back later, not! The rest of us just tend to ignore the banter, in a polite way, by walking straight past.

Ended up settling on a place that offered a large beer, doner kebab, chips, rice and salad for 15TL. The girls managed to swap the beer for wine and the waiter was great saying no problem. A lot cheaper than last night with a bill of only 86TL. No nightcaps tonight as we are all a little tired after all that walking today.

Wet & Wild and a Little Hoarse

Monday 18th October - Fish Market

Another day and another change in the weather as today we have a slight drizzle. You just can't pick it. At this stage we will just hang around the hotel and do a few running repairs such as a well needed shave and a manicure. With a little bit of luck the weather will clear which will allow us to get out and explore a little more of this charming place.

In the end we caught our local mini bus into town with the aim of going to the fish market for a meal. There are two aspects to eating here and that is too choose a fish and a restaurant.

There are a number of restaurants who all charge the same price of 5TL for cooking your delicacy so in the end it is all up to the head waiter who will try just about anything to entice you in. Our guy got us by reducing the price of our beer and wine.

Next step was to purchase our seafood from one of the many fish mongers that yell out their daily specials. As I don't like bones I picked a fillet of fish that was very similar to Mackerel and a small Calamari that set me back 10 TL. Alice went for a half kilo of prawns for 13 TL, Tony had Mackerel for 7 TL and Julie a whole sea bream for 10 TL.

Back at the restaurant we handed over our purchases where they were cooked to perfection. The prawns were done in a light chili and garlic sauce and the fish barbecued with garlic butter and came with salad, toasted Turkish bread and Parmesan cheese.

After lunch Tony and I decided we needed a trim to make ourselves beautiful for our main squeezes. We found a “Berber” who also offered massages as well as the usual cut and shampoo. Tony's Berber was quite short and had to stand on his tiptoes to reach his massive scone. The end result was that I came out looking like Daniel Craig and Tony like Woody Harleson. Watch out Alice and Julie!

Tuesday 19th October – Blue Cruise

Lots of rain overnight and a morning thunder storm had us wondering what would be in store for us when we set sail (motor) on our Gulet. Over breakfast the rain stopped and some patches of blue appeared which has given us some hope of a reasonable day. It is like Brisbane in reverse, after the thunder the skies clear and everything is fresh.

Our departure from Fethiye Harbour was delayed as there was a problem with the Hassle Free travel agency with whom we had booked our accommodation and cruise.

Apparently they had not forwarded any of the money that we had paid and were stuffing V-Go around. I spoke to the agent and reminded him that we would be back in Istanbul and that I would involve the police if he did not honour our booking. Eventually, it was sorted out through a third party and I suspect that it was a matter of face. I will be having a word when we return to Istanbul.

We motored out at about 12.30pm in reasonable conditions but it soon deteriorated. The swell was up and there were a number of green faces. Just as we pulled up for a late lunch the rain bucketed down so we all retreated to the main cabin. Half the guests retreated to their cabins but Alice and I remained on deck as we motored over for a look at Butterfly Valley and the Blue Lagoon. Both places are beautiful but today the sea conditions do not permit a landing.

In the late afternoon we anchored off St Nicholas (Of Santa Claus Fame) Island. A couple of the more hardy boys dived in for a swim but the rest of us opted for a hot coffee. We were just about ready to visit the Byzantine ruins on the island when a big thunder storm came over. Alice quickly disappeared into the cabin. It blew over quickly but it was getting dark so we left the ruins to the local goats and cats that inhabit the island.

Wednesday 20th October – Rough Seas

What a night we had! Howling wind, roaring thunder, the sky lit up with sheet and forked lightning and torrential rain. Lucky for us we are all secure tucked in behind the island and safely ensconced in our cosy little cabin. Our cabin contains a comfortable double bed, small wardrobe, about one metre of floor space and a ensuite for those more private moments.

At 7.15am the skipper weighed anchor and we made a break for our next destination. As soon as we left the island' shelter the wind and sea hit us front on. Our gulet was bobbing up and down like a cork. The decision was made very quickly to turn back to St Nicholas island. The only good omen was that it had stopped raining and we could see some blue sky on the horizon.

After a good breakfast some of the younger ones went in for a swim but we remained on deck and enjoyed our surroundings. By 11.00am there was a bit more sun out and the wind had dropped a little. It was I thought, time to get wet. As soon as I hit the water I did not regret my decision. The water was surprisingly warm so I struck out for the distant bank of the island. On arrival I was greeted by a couple of mewing white cats who looked like they were glad of the company. There was a sign which confirmed that St Nicholas had spent time here and that the island was once an important port of call.

After lunch we motored off again and this time the conditions although not perfect were suitable for us to continue. Tony and I had popped a seasick tablet which allowed us to enjoy our ocean voyage. Alice however was looking decidedly green and eagerly chewed on a tablet to relieve her nausea. Julie just soldiered on showing no effect from the constant sideway and up and down movements.

We traveled slowly just off the coastline and for the next six hours enjoyed our vista of the rugged Turkish coast. The time was interrupted by short bursts of fishing from the hand lines that we trolled behind the boat and plenty of conversation. We had a beautiful sunset as the bright red orb of the sun dropped below a distant island. This was replaced by a bright full silvery moon and the evening star which reflected light off the much calmer water.

At around 7.30pm we dropped anchor in a beautiful little bay off the town of Kas. A beautiful little island provided plenty of shelter from the elements. After a great dinner and a couple of beers on deck I adjourned to my cabin as I am sounding a little like Kermit the Frog.

Thursday 21st October – Blue Skies At Last
My voice has deteriorated overnight but I feel okay. The one bright thing is that the sun is shining and it looks as if we will have good weather today. After breakfast the crew will take us over to the town of Kas where we can pick up Cash and replenish the dwindling supplies. I will see what I can find for a sore throat.

After a breakfast in the marina surrounded by well heeled yachties we had a relaxing two hours walking around Kas. We barely scratched the surface but Kas wove its spell and left us wanting to see more of this charming little town.

The town itself does not sport the finest beaches but the atmosphere of the place is wonderfully mellow. The surrounding areas offer everything from first class scuba diving, shopping for the girls,and paragliding from the peak of the 500 metre mountain that surrounds the town. There is also a plethora of restaurants that make choosing where to eat a difficult but fun chore.

When we were leaving the harbour I spotted my first and only turtle and some flying fish that were skipping over the water. A swim followed shortly after and the water was so good that even Julie and Alice decided to get wet. After lunch the captain decided to show us that he was a real sailor and hoisted the jib. It was great not to hear the steady thump, thump, thump of the diesel.

We motored along the shore of Kekova Island where Byzantine ruins,partly submerged 6m below the sea and called the sunken city. This was the result of a series of earthquakes that occurred in the 2nd century AD.

Across from the sunken city is the little outpost of Kalekoy which is home to the ancient ruins of Simena (Lycian). There is an old Crusader fortress perched above the hamlet below that gives great views of the surrounding area. Julie, Alice and I made the trek to the top where we watched the sunset over the islands and Mediterranean sea. Tony meanwhile was sleeping off the four cans of Efes that he had for lunch. A little later we were anchored in a secluded bay sheltered from all the elements.

Dinner on deck under the stars was a great way for me at least to finish the day. Alice and I are having an early mark as I can hardly talk which I suppose is a blessing for some. Tony and Julie with a few others caught a speedboat to Smugglers Cove for a few island drinks and some dancing. Judging by the noise they made on their return, I reckon that they had a good time. Tony later told me that it looked like the set of Gilligan's Island and that the Germans who were on the dance floor appeared like extras on the set.

Friday 22nd October – An Offer Too Good To Refuse

A swim before breakfast really woke us up as the surface water was quite cold. Luckily it was warmer just below. The captain has made us all an offer to stay an extra night on the gulet with all meals included for the never to be repeated price of 50 TL per person. Naturally we accepted this bargain along with five others. Martin and Jane a mature English couple could not stay as they had other accommodation booked.

Later in the morning we stopped at the pirates cave for a swim. The water was crystal clear which made it easier whilst swimming inside the large cavern. There was a large rock in the middle to sit on and at one end was a small beach that led to what may have been pirates treasure. Most likely it led to a colony of bats whose shrieking gave the place an eerie feeling.

After lunch we said our farewells to Martin and Jane and motored off to another island. The gulet anchored for the night in a secluded cove with two other boats. A couple of us grabbed some gear and snorkeled close to the shoreline. The marine life was fair and we saw a cuttlefish, trumpet fish and a big school of bait fish. The crew were busy with a spear gun and caught a bucketful of fish for tonight's barbecue dinner. A few beers underneath a starry sky ended another great day.

Saturday 23rd October – Kas Again

So many decisions too make when you wake up on a Gulet. Will I have a swim before breakfast or not? A hot coffee won out as I could remember the coolness of yesterdays early swim. Tony and I are becoming real Nancy boys. Over breakfast a couple of the local goats serenaded us as they walked along the rugged shoreline. We eventually braved the water and were pleasantly surprised by the warmth. Julie floated around on a noodle whilst Alice did a slow breaststroke up the channel.

A quick motor and we arrive at another cove with a bank lined by pine trees. There is supposed to be a hot spring here so I was looking forward to a swim after finishing the last few pages of my book.

At 1.00pm we are supposed to catch a bus from the town of Demre to our next destination. The captain's mobile goes off, good reception the whole cruise, and after the call he informs us that we are now going to Kas. As the anchor is coming up he explains that his boss needs the boat there because he had buggered up the bookings of a new group. We did not mind going backwards as it gave us a couple of more hours at sea.

Well what a great trip we had, good people, good crew and in the end great weather. If you are ever in Turkey make sure you take a blue cruise. The 3N/4D option is probably the best as I think a bigger cabin would be necessary for a longer cruise.

After we settled up our rather hefty bar tab which was due to all the wine consumed by Alice and Julie and not the beer that Tony and I drank, we jumped on a bus at 2.45pm bound for Olympos. The bus trip was about 2.5 hours and followed the coastline for the majority of the journey. We left the bus at the turnoff for Olympos, another 10km away,and farewelled our fellow cruise members (Jordan, Adam, RC, Catherine and Rebecca).

Our bus departed at 6.00pm and drove down a beautiful valley surrounded by pine trees growing off the rugged slopes of the mountains. We are staying at Bayrams Treehouse Pension for 35TL per person a night and that includes breakfast and dinner.

The bungalows are all close to each other and built among an orange orchard. The rooms are basic, clean and the water hot. Out in the courtyard for dinner which was incredibly good we relaxed on a little platform with cushions scattered all around. A very mellow place to chill.

Maiden Flight in Oludeniz

Monday 11th October – Ephesus

Our tour today was to the ancient city of Ephesus. We went through the gates at around 10.00am with hordes of other people. Apparently there were a couple of cruise ships in. The site has been excavated and restored for about 100 years and as a result there is plenty to see. Just outside the main entrance is the tomb of Luke the Evangelist. Inside the gates is the Odeon which was basically a Council Hall where political issues were discussed. There are so many aspects to Ephesus that it would take ages to write about.

In summary we saw the temple of Hadrian, Fountain of Trajan, Gymnasium Baths, Library of Celsus and The Great Theatre. One interesting aspect was the Roman mens toilets. Nice little slots cut into the marble and once the business was done it was taken away by running water. Apparently the wealthy Romans would bring along a slave to warm up the cold marble so that they could enjoy a comfortable sitting. The 125000 seat theatre has been host to great singers including Tom Jones, Frank Sinatra, Sting and Tony Aitchinson.

After a fantastic lunch it was off to a leather factory where they put on a fashion show in an attempt to lure some Turkish Lira from the hip pockets of gullible tourists. I sat out in the car park and when Alice returned with the news that she had purchased a beautiful red jacket I could not have been happier.

Our next stop was the home of the Virgin Mary. There is no definite proof that she spent her last days here but there are strong indicators that she did. The Catholics and Muslim faiths however do recognize the site and as a result many pilgrims travel here. A baptismal pool was discovered in 1961 which is not far from the church which has been reconstructed on this site. There were many people at the site and our guide had to restrain the many pensioners who caused a stampede when they saw the church. You would have thought they were going to expire before they could get inside.

Outside the church there is a fresh water spring that is supposed to have been blessed and once again there was a mad crush to get to this potent elixir. I managed to fill my water bottle and will see if it has an impact on my receding hair line. There is also a wishing wall. You write a note on a piece of paper and stuff it into the wall amongst the thousands of other notes. It is like a miniature version of the Wailing Wall in Jerusalem.

Next stop was the Temple of Artemis which was recognized as one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. These days there is a big hole, a few building blocks and a column where this great temple once stood. You just have to use your imagination.

A riot nearly occurred as our mini van made the turn into a carpet factory. It was a unanimous decision and our driver who also did not wish to go in quickly turned around and took us back into town. He joined the majority of us in the consumption of a few beers in the local cafe/park.

After 100 TL of beers we adjoined to the terrace of his hotel for further relaxation. It was an impromptu event which we all enjoyed over more beer, wind and some take away Turkish Pide (pizza). To make it a memorable evening we also had a small earthquake that registered about 3.5 on the Richter scale.

Tuesday 12th October – Happy Anniversary

Today Tony and Julie celebrate their 8th wedding anniversary. The weather is overcast and we are getting some intermittent showers. We have nothing planned for today so we can relax, as if we are not already, and take it easy by browsing around Selcuk.

We had a nice little lunch of “Gozleme” which is spinach, cheese and potato wrapped in a flat Turkish bread. The venue was Ali Baba's restaurant and our delicious meal was coked by Mrs Baba. Ali drives all the guests of the ANZ guesthouse around the town and to local sites. I suspect that he does all right because many of them end up in his carpet shop around the corner. Nevertheless you can't help but like him.

Alice and I then ventured off for a look at the Basilica of St. John. According to the literature this church would have been the 7th largest in the world if it was still active today. St John's tomb, today, is marked by a simple marble slab.

We were going out for dinner to celebrate Tony and Julie's anniversary but ended up on our rooftop terrace swilling a few beers and wines. Tony brought out the guitar and he and Mike entertained us for a few hours on the rooftop. A little reminiscent of the Beatles. Words for the music came from Chris's (Mike's wife) laptop. Ah the marvels of technology! Ernie and Leslee from Tasmania entertained us with some jive dancing. To ward off the hunger the girls ventured down to Ali Baba's and ordered takeaway. It was a good night and Tony and Mike were really in the zone.

Wednesday 13th September – Hierapolis

Up bright and early today as we are leaving our guest house for a three hour trip to Pamukkale to visit the famous Travertines.

It is hard to describe the way that the calcium cliffs shine in the sun but it is like the mountains are covered in snow. The ruins of Hierapolis evoke what life was like in the early centuries where Romans, Jews, Christians and Pagans. The whole area was set up like a modern day spa where people came for health cures from the hot sulphuric pools. The whole site is covered in ruins. Sites include the temple of Apollo, Byzantine Church, a 12,000 seat Roman Theatre, museum and the famous antique pool where Cleopatra had a bit of a dalliance with Mark Anthony. There is also an octagonal Martyrium of St Philip the Apostle built on the site where it is believed St Philip was martyred.

We decided to pay 25 TL for a swim in the antique pool where you can bathe amid submerged sections of original fluted marble columns. The water temperature is a languid 36 degrees. Tony felt that he was a bit like Richard Burton who starred in the 60's movie “Cleopatra”. I on the other hand felt like I was in a busy watery scrum as hordes of overweight Russian men and women competed for seats on the submerged columns. They say you will feel ten years younger after a swim here. I never looked so good! To finish off our time here we took a magic carpet ride. You will have to wait for the video on this one.

At 4.00pm we transferred to a mini bus so we could catch our bus to Fethiye which will take about 4.5 hours. In the bus park a young American couple were throwing a Frisbee which caused great amusement among the staff working at the bus station. They joined in and had a tremendous time throwing a piece of plastic. I think they were a little sad when it was time for the bus to depart.

It wasn't long before we started to get a little rain as our very cramped midi bus took on the mountains surrounding Pamukkale. As usual the bus driver was excellent however the WC at our first stop has lived up to the norm. The girls are tired of having to pay 1 TL for a squat toilet with no toilet paper. They reckon that they should not have to pay for inferior ablutions but I guess it keeps someone employed. It might be a good program for those who never want to enter the workforce in Australia!

We finally arrived at the bus station at around 9.30pm and I did a quick walk around to ascertain if our pre-booked hotel had sent someone to pick us up. Alas, nobody was there so we decided to have a Doner Kebab to ward off the munchies. After our feed we found a taxi and made our way to the hotel for a well earned rest. There were a few young ones having some drinks at the bar and one girl had a laugh that you get when you have had one too many drinks. You know the sound, just like fingernails scraping across a blackboard. Fortunately, we were too tired for it to be a problem but I did hear of a few complaints in the morning.

Thursday 14th October – Fethiye

After a reasonably good nights sleep at the V-Go Guest House we awoke to gray skies and intermittent rain. I guess the weather in Turkey has finally caught up with us. We pondered about what we could do in this inclement weather, Shopping! No, that would be too easy. W did what eve5yone who comes to Turkey should do, indulge yourself at a Turkish Haman.

We organized a pickup from our hotel and were soon on the other side of Fethiye sitting down discussing what sort of treatment we would have. All of us decided on the traditional Turkish bath with an extra thirty minute massage and a face pack for the girls. It wasn't long and we were all sporting our sarongs with our togs underneath in a very hot sauna.

When we couldn't take the heat any longer Tony and I went into the wash house to receive our punishment whilst Alice and Julie had their face packs applied. Tony was the first one to be laid out on the marble slab and seemed to enjoy (just kidding) the slap across his buttocks that his burly Turkish male body scrubber gave him.

After a good scrubbing Tony received a liberal dousing of water to remove all the dead skin from his body. He then moved over to the washing side of the slab where another Turkish man was ready to give him a good wash. They really froth up the suds and it is like soft bubbles landing on your skin when they start.

After a through wash you are given a good soaking before they start on shampooing your hair. I don't think Tony has ever been so clean! Meanwhile Julie and Alice appeared looking like extras from the Mel Gibson movie “Braveheart”. After the face mask was removed they both looked years younger not that they have aged that much.

The massage that we had later was of a high quality and left us all feeling relaxed. At about $40 each this was a great way to while away a few rainy hours.

While I was watching the Turkish CNN in the cool down area of the Haman they reported severe flooding and mudslides in the town of Bursa which is not far from Istanbul. The majority of Turkey at the moment is in the grip of this severe weather depression. Hopefully, we will be able to enjoy the next few days as this area has a lot to offer.

After a good lunch of Lentil soup, pide, doner kebab and beer Tony and I headed back to our hotel for a number of beers, Along the way we passed the fish market where you can buy a fish and then ask the local restaurant to cook it up for you. The cost is 5 TL which also includes a salad. Not a bad way to have a fresh fish dinner. The girls mean while have decided to do what they do best, SHOP!

The girls finally returned from their expedition at around 6.30pm. Julie was clutching a new leather Jimmy Choo handbag and there were even presents for Tony and David. We decided to stay in and partake of the house barbecue dinner which incidentally was delicious.

After dinner there was a hive of activity with the owners gift wrapping heaps of shirts. The girls had also noticed them doing this the night we arrived. It looked like they were running a clothing export business after dark. Alice and Julie could not contain themselves and needed to know what was going on. They pulled over a staff member who explained that the owner and his Belgian girlfriend of 10 years were getting married and these were presents for the 1000 guests that would be attending the upcoming nuptials. The wedding will go for three days and they can accomplish this without the help of a wedding planner. Good luck to them.

Most of you would know that between us we have six unmarried daughters. Alice and Julie thought that our young Turkish barman and jack of all trades, Caesar, might be a good catch for one of these girls. The only photograph available was one of Telissa which impressed him no end. We assured him that all the girls were “beauties” and worth at least forty camels.

Friday 15th October – 12 Island Tour and Scuba Diving

No need to play the Carpenters “Rainy Days and Mondays” as we have woken up to some blue skies which will hopefully last. We even managed to have a hot shower before heading down to breakfast.

I caught the local mini bus down to the wharf and joined Mermaid Diving for the day. The cost was 80 TL including lunch and all gear. The boat was nice and big with plenty of room for sunbathing as well as gearing up. Our first dive was called Three Tunnels and involved swimming through some narrow caves and rock fissures. The visibility was good and there was a reasonable variety of Mediterranean reef fish.

We did not have our second dive until about 3.30pm which meant that it was a little colder. This dive was not as good as the first as there was not much to see as we swam about 200 metres along a rock wall. The most prolific sea creature I saw was a Fire Worm which looks remarkably like a centipede and will give you a nasty sting if touched. The boat pulled into the quay at 5.30pm and I headed home for a beer.

The 12 Island tourists reported back at 6.00pm and advised that they had perfect weather and a brilliant day. The following is an extract from Alice's diary and verbatim I will quote it: “left the harbour with gray skies ahead but we are hopeful and it paid off. Only a few drops fell and it seemed that we were chasing the clouds away, motoring into sunshine and watching the scenery as we went. First swim stop we all dived in for a refreshing swim as we were told by the barman/crew member that no swim, no lunch.

Then it was off to a lunch location. We were given a lunch ticket depending on what we chose fish or chicken. Tony took his ticket for a swim (he is such a blond) so it was lost somewhere in the Mediterranean. He was told (jokingly) that this was a big problem - no ticket, no lunch.

Stop three was another swim at Flat Island in the idyllic waters. Stop four another swim and meet the locals on Red Island which is also known as Rabbit Island. No prizes for guessing who the locals were. They were well trained too as they came down to greet the boats. A very relaxing day.”

This evening we traipsed off to dinner with a Canadian couple, Paul and Cindy, to try out a cheap feed on a boat that is moored at the waterfront. The setting was basic but very relaxing which was right up my alley.

They have been raving about the fried Anchovies so we ordered three plates of the little suckers. Now they were not the Coles supermarket style, full of salt and only suitable for a caesar salad or pizza, they were crispy and quite edible. Tony however left a plate full of tails.

The fish and chips that followed were a bit ordinary but the beers were cheap. We finished off with a drink at a nightclub where they were playing a good mix of music. Sitting next to us was a mother, daughter combination that Julie thought were on the game.

The younger one had a fake tan, boob job, hair in a blond ballroom style, bleached white teeth, white mini dress and white accessories. To put it simply she was a fake but Mum was an even bigger fake, a cougar on the make, mutton dressed up as lamb.

Saturday 16th October – Thunder in the Sky

Woke this morning to the sound of thunder and dark forbidding skies. At breakfast the heavens opened up and the rain pelted down. Around 10.00am the weather cleared so we decided to try and find the Fethyie Museum.

After a few wrong turns and wandering around several back streets dodging puddles and barking dogs we found the museum. Three Turkish Lira gained us entry into this small but well laid out museum. There are some good archaeological exhibits from the Lycians who dwelled in this area from about 1000 BC to 300 BC when Alexander The Great conquered them. There was also a collection of artifacts from the Hellenistic and Roman periods.

We then proceeded uphill to try and find the Lycian Tombs. It did not take long before we came across these old tombs that had been carved into the limestone rock. They must have been prominent men as the view was stupendous. The carving was reminiscent of Petra but obviously not of the same scale. I paid 8TL for the privilege while the others paid 4TL for a freshly squeezed orange juice.

On the way down for lunch we passed some very interesting buildings which still had quarters for the family goat. It was so interesting that Julie received a hit in the head from an apple which was thrown over the balcony of a house by an old woman. You could see on her face that she was mortified for not seeing Julie but the language barrier prevented her from apologizing.

We were once again in the main shopping area where Alice and Julie tried the patience of many store owners who endeavoured to tempt them with their wares. After one too many shops Tony and I headed for a bar to have yet another Efes as well as to escape the drizzle that had started up again. It took a couple of minutes to find one that was not full of Turkish men smoking cigarettes and playing backgammon. Eventually, the girls rejoined us and much to our surprise they had not bought too many items.

Julie decided to browse the shops like an internet surfer hooked on Google for a little longer while we headed back to our hotel. We had not gone 100 metres when Tony decided that he needed to pee. There was no man at the WC so he went and relieved himself of a few Efes, On the way out he did the right thing and waited for the man to pay his dues. He handed over 10TL and only received 5TL in change. I could not believe that he had paid the price of nearly two beers for a pee. As Julie says “ no matter what you never get change from the WC. The moral of the story is always carry lose change when you are caught short in Turkey and don't stress when you know that you've been had.

Finished off the day with Tony playing guitar, telling jokes and enjoying another barbecue dinner. Life is good.

Sunday 17th October – Free Falling

Just cannot pick the weather as today the sun is out again and we have beautiful blue skies. The four of us have decided to try a spot of paragliding, you know just run and jump off a cliff. We headed for the small town of Oludeniz which is about 16km southeast of Fethiye.

Our first sight of the beach as we were driving down the mountain reminded of us of paradise. The sheltered crystal blue lagoon is beside a lush national park, a long spit of sandy beach, and Baba Dag (Mt Baba) casting it's shadow across the sea. It is hard to describe the colour of the water but it is like a crystal blue most likely caused by the brilliant white stones that lie beneath the surface. The water is so salty that it was almost impossible to sink. The area is also called the dead sea.

We all had enjoyable swims and relaxed on the 17 TL beach chairs which did include an umbrella. We have been entertained all day to the sounds of dance music and the air fest. Some of the novice paragliders have nearly taken out a few pedestrians on the boardwalk while others have crashed into ice cream concessions. The professionals have been performing some amazing stunts such as 25 continuous somersaults. We even had a Birdman who did a base jump from an ultra light and then sped across the sky like superman at 200kmph in his wing suit before opening his parachute just above the beach.

At 4.00pm we headed up to the Gravity Paragliding school for our taste of tandem flying. It wasn't long before we were sitting in the back of a four wheel drive tearing up the slopes of Baba Dag (1960 metres). We traveled for just over 30 minutes through a beautiful national park with ancient pine trees covered in lichen. I think we were more terrified of falling off the mountain and tumbling down that rocky scree face than the impending jump.

Tony was the first brave soul to take a leap of faith and was quickly followed by Julie. Just picture Tony, his knees knocking as he takes a few fateful steps before jumping off a ridge 6000 feet up and then comfortably seated, gracefully drifting over the velvety indigo of the sea and feeling the caress of the breeze on his face while the sun beats down on his wispy blond locks. Julie thought it was a great experience as she reckoned that the G forces removed a few wrinkles.

After I landed we waited patiently, patiently, patiently for Alice to drop out of the sky. I kept looking up hoping that the next parachute would be hers. A little while later the sun had set but it was still light enough to see. I started humming the old Smokie song “Where the Heck is Alice”. I told Julie and Tony to go and have a look at their video of the flight.

It was then that they were informed that Alice's flight was canceled due to a lack of wind and clouds at the jump off point. The other issue was that there were a number of novice paragliders as Oludeniz was hosting an international air fest. Better safe than sorry.

I must admit that I was a little anxious and only relaxed when I saw her smiling face. The team apologized for the delay and gave Alice a free T shirt and us a discount on our photos. They then drove us into Fethiye and recommended that we eat at a local restaurant which supposedly served good food and only had Turkish customers.

The guys also ate there and we are not sure whether they received a kickback or not. Anyway the food was good and reasonably priced. We picked up a mini bus at the front of the restaurant which dropped us at our front door at 10.00pm. It's off to bed because we are all knackered.

TURKISH DELIGHTED

Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir (a mouthful) was the most famous of all Ottoman confectioners. He came to Istanbul from the mountain town of Kastamonu in 1777 and opened a shop in the old city where he concocted delicious boiled sweets and the translucent jellied jewels known to Turks as “lokum” and to the rest of the world as Turkish Delight.

Tuesday 5th October – Goodbye Santorini, Hello Istanbul

Up at 5.00am this morning for an early morning flight with Aegean Air to Athens. We have a six hour transfer before heading off to Istanbul where we will meet up with our good friends Tony and Julie for part two of our amazing journey.

After a fifty minute flight it was a perfect touch down in Istanbul. As we disembarked we noticed that there was a huge number of flights arriving. As we approached the immigration counter we encountered a sea of people all trying to figure out what to do next. Alice stood in a queue while I went off to investigate if we were indeed in the correct line. When I returned there was Julie and Tony standing with Alice.

Apparently Alice heard a voice behind her and there was Julie. That was an incredible piece of luck, two couples from two continents meeting each other in the middle of a crowded airport. After purchasing our 90 day visa the four of us joined the long line for immigration. Once we were processed it was off to the baggage carousel to pick up our bags. We had spent so much time inside that the carousel had stopped.

I eventually located our driver who was transferring us to the Peninsula Hotel. We are staying in the Sultanahmet area and are very close to all the major sites. Our room is small but comfortable with the only downside being that there is no fridge to keep our beer and wine cool. Talking of cool the weather here is a lot colder and we will have to venture out in our winter warmies. A nice Turkish dinner at a corner restaurant finished off what was a long day for all of us

Wednesday 6th October – Orientation

Just after 6.00am we were woken from our pleasant sleep by loudspeakers calling the faithful to prayer. There is no escaping this cacophony of noise which somehow adds to the charm and excitement of being in another country.

After a rather nice leisurely breakfast on the rooftop which overlooks the Marmara Sea Tony and David set off to the Hassle Free Tourist agency. Our goal was to purchase onwards bus tickets to Eceabat where we will visit the Gallipoli Peninsula. Having accomplished this rather simple task we joined the girls for some local orientation.

In quick succession we saw the Aya Sofya, Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace. As we are returning to Istanbul in November we did not spend any time visiting these sites. We did however visit the Basilica Cistern.

This extraordinary cistern was built by the Roman Emperor Justinian in AD 532. It was used to store water for the great palace and surrounding buildings but eventually closed. The cistern is 65m wide and 143m long and it's roof is supported by 336 columns arranged in 12 rows. It was constructed using columns, capitals and plinths from ruined buildings. We took a brief interlude in the cavernous depths and played dress up Ottomans and had our pictures taken in full regalia. After all this grandeur we headed off in search of the Grand Bazaar. The boys decided that a cold Effe was in order and allowed Julie and Alice one hour to check out the bargains.

It took us a while to work out what direction to travel in order to get back to our hotel. A bottle of red, a few beers and some ruffle potato chips on the rooftop helped us wile away the afternoon. An early dinner in Kangaroo Alley (local nickname) which was again delicious was in order as we have a 5.30am wake up call in front of us.

Thursday 7th October – Gallipoli

Up nice and early for our five hour drive to Eceabat. The drive out of the city was very interesting, especially for me.

Bus nuts only should read the following text. We followed the Istanbul Busway for quite a few kilometres and I was amazed at the numbers of passengers waiting at busway stops and the numbers on board vehicles (Jam Packed).

The busway has been built by taking the two centre lanes of a major freeway. There are centre platforms which means that the buses must drive on the wrong side of the road (left) in order to pick up passengers. There did not seem to be an issue for the drivers. Bus types were rigid, articulated and bi-articulated. There are no passing lanes at stations but as in Greece it was all door boarding and prepaid fares which obviously speeds up boarding times and busway capacity. I could only see one route number which was number 34 the old Pinkenba route number.

Back again to reality! The trip out went through some interesting countryside with a mix between industrial, farming and seaside communities. We arrived at our home for the next two days, the Crowded House Hotel at around 12.30pm. The hotel asked us if we wanted to join the Gallipoli tour that was departing in 30 minutes. The weather has been a bit dicky so we decided to go just in case it turns again.

We set off in a howling wind and the temperature a miserly 15 degrees. Like many others this journey for me is a pilgrimage. My grandfather on my mother's side whom I never met, fought at Gallipoli. He survived the carnage and eventually returned to Australia at the end of the war.

Our Turkish guide was very knowledgeable and managed to fill in a few blanks of the campaign that I was not aware of. The tour started off at Brighton Beach where the Anzacs were supposed to have landed. Who knows how it would have turned out if they had gotten the landing right?

Our next stop was the Beach Cemetery which has the grave site of John Simpson who was responsible for repatriating about 300 wounded soldiers down to the beach on his donkey. We then headed up to Anzac Cove, Ari Burnu Cemetery and the ANZAC Commemorative Site.

Leaving the beach we headed up to the Lone Pine Cemetery and Memorial. Lone Pine is the major landmark for the Australians. This area was where many Australians lost their lives in what now appears to be senseless charges against the Turks. At Johnston's Jolly we were able to walk in the trenches of the Australians and the Turks. The trenches were a mere 8 metres apart.

Next stop was the Nek which featured in the movie Gallipoli. The last stop was the Chunuk Bair Cemetery and New Zealand memorial. The kiwi Anzacs managed to take this very strategic high ground in August 1915. They managed to hold on for two days before being forced back by the Turks who were led by Mustafa Kemal who later became the first president of Turkey, known as Ataturk, or father of the Turks.

The most successful part of the entire campaign was the evacuation. Anzac Cove and Suvla Bay were evacuated in December 1915 and the Helles area was emptied of troops by 9 January 1916. Only a handful of lives were lost, an ironic end to a campaign which had cost the lives of 36000 Commonwealth, 10000 French and around 86000 Turks.

It was an emotional day and I confess to having the odd tear in my eye. It is a journey that I believe most Australians should make if the opportunity arises.

Friday 8th October – Europe to Asia and Back Again

Nothing is planned for today so we had a leisurely breakfast before deciding to head over to Asia for a day out. As soon as we stepped outside the wind which was around yesterday hit us full blast. The temperature is around 12 degrees and could freeze the you know what off a brass monkey. I have not been this cold since a winters weekend at Lamington Plateau. To reach Asia all we have to do is pay the ferryman 2TL and he will take us across the Dardanelles from Eceabat to Canakkale. The trip across takes approximately 30 minutes.

Canakkale is a hive of activity and much larger than the sleepy town we had just left.

Whilst walking along the street in search of the markets that are supposed to operate ever Friday the girls are halted in their tracks at the sight of a pastry shop. They could not resist the temptation of all the delicious cakes and biscuits that were being displayed.

They ordered Nescafe but received a cup of tea to have with their sweets. Tony who was clutching his “man bag” also ordered one but received nothing. We think that he confused the waiter and ended up paying for Alice. Back on the street the girls had no trouble finding their way to the market. Funny that!

The markets were teeming with locals who like the girls were out to snaffle a bargain. On the other hand Tony and I were looking for a spot to sit down and have a drink. No such luck as we could not see a bar anywhere.

There marketplace was covered and well laid out with plenty of space between the aisles. There were sections for fish, fruit, vegetables and clothing. In the end we were all tempted to buy something. I was so cold that I succumbed to purchasing a Lacoste jumper to ward off the chills and a pair of Levis just for show. The prices were so good that Tony bought 2 pair of jeans, Alice a jacket and jeans whilst Julie showed the most restraint with a pair of happy hippy pants.

After a late lunch we braced ourselves against the cold and went back to Europe. We decided to stay in doors and relaxed in our rooms with a few beers, scotch, a bottle of red and potato chips. Tony pulled out his traveling guitar and sang a few songs that put us all in a relaxed frame of mind. A great way to end the day.

Saturday 9th October – Selcuk

Today we have to catch the ferry along with our luggage back over to Cannakale where we will pick up a bus at 12.30pm to Selcuk. On the ferry trip three Turkish boys approached us and asked if we could help them with a vocabulary test. Alice being a TESOL teacher jumped straight in and started marking the test. Alice ranked it as a high level test and corrected all the wrong answers. The boys thanked her and went away smiling thinking that they would get an “A” for that test.

The road south took us over the mountains and followed the coast line for many miles. Adjacent to the road there were millions of olive trees with gnarled trunks and new branches bearing unripened olives. Most of the land was agricultural however there were many large towns in this part of Turkey.

Our first stop after three hours was the town of Bergama which is famous for its cottage industries and the ancient site of Pergamum. The Acropolis is the major site of the area and sits at about 350 metres. There are ruined temples to the gods Athena and the guy who always pops up Dionysus as well as the Altar of Zeus. The highlight for us was the vertigo-inducing 10,000 seat theatre which is built into the hillside to conserve space.

Our guide wanted someone from our group to sing a song to prove how good the acoustics were. Tony needed no encouragement and with me as his poor excuse for a backup singer belted a Tracey Gibbs song “The Truth About Men”. Tony received a round of applause from the packed theatre and the enthralled onlookers who were peering over the edge of the parapet. The girls said the acoustics were good.

We also had a quick look at the Red Basilica which was originally a dedicated to Egyptian gods. In his Revelation St. John wrote that this was one of the seven churches of the Apocalypse, singling it out as the throne of the devil.

Given that here are cottage industries in the area we could not escape the clutches of a carpet factory. After plying us with a very nice red they escorted us through the facility. There are no chemical dyes used and every carpet is hand woven in silk or wool. The number of knots and the time taken are large factors in the price. They rolled out more carpets that a Rugs a Million salesman. There were some beautiful carpets but everything we liked was in excess of a thousand dollars. No problem, just give us your credit card details and like radio rentals pay it off over time. They were nice but we had to decline and get on our way.

Around 8.00pm we reached the town of Izmir which has a population in excess of 3 million and is Turkey's third biggest city.

After a rather good and cheap meal we hit the highway and sped off to Selcuk. At 10.00pm we arrived at the ANZ guest house. Unfortunately our booked rooms were not available until the next day so we were given a downgrade. It doesn't matter as we are tired and will soon be a sleep.

Sunday 10th October – Day Off in Selcuk

After a good lazy breakfast we are given the keys to our new rooms. Tony and Julie have the impressive honeymoon room, complete with jacuzzi whilst we have to make do with the Ottoman room. The rooms are good so we headed down the street to the Ephesus Museum to have a look at the striking artefacts that have been recovered from the ancient city.

The first gallery contains finds from the Terrace Houses of Ephesus – scales, jewelery, cosmetic boxes etc. You can also see the famous effigy of Priapus, the Phallic God. He is kept in the dark but just push a button to illuminate him in all his rampart glory. The other display areas which includes an outdoor courtyard hold collections of coins, grave goods, statuary and representations of Eros. There is also an enormous head and arm of the Emperor Domitian which once formed part of a 7 metre high statue.

After lunch we had a look at the Byzantine Aqueduct that runs intermittently through the centre of town. The top of the aqueduct is a nesting place for storks. We also had a quick look at the outside of the Basilica of St John. He is said to have come to Ephesus twice: once between AD 37 and AD 48 with the Virgin Mary, and again in AD 95 towards the end of his life, when he wrote his gospel on Ayasuluk Hill. A 4th century tomb was believed to house his remains, so in the 6th century the Emperor Justinian erected a magnificent church on top of his tomb.

After all this culture we returned to our guest house for a rest before the evening barbecue on the rooftop. The barbie was an outstanding success, lots of chicken and salad and we were allowed to BYO. Tony pulled out the guitar and we sang a few songs with the other guests. An American, Mike could also play guitar and he strummed out a couple of Beatles and Stones numbers.

Monday 11th October – Ephesus

Our tour today was to the ancient city of Ephesus. We went through the gates at around 10.00am with hordes of other people. Apparently there were a couple of cruise ships in. The site has been excavated and restored for about 100 years and as a result there is plenty to see. Just outside the main entrance is the tomb of Luke the Evangelist.

Inside the gates is the Odeon which was basically a Council Hall where political issues were discussed. There are so many aspects to Ephesus that it would take ages to write about. In summary we saw the temple of Hadrian, Fountain of Trajan, Gymnasium Baths, Library of Celsus and The Great Theatre.

One interesting aspect was the Roman men's toilets. Nice little slots cut into the marble and once the business was done it was taken away by running water. Apparently the wealthy Romans would bring along a slave to warm up the cold marble so that they could enjoy a comfortable sitting.

The 10,000 seat theatre has been host to great singers including Tom Jones, Frank Sinatra, Sting and Tony Aitchinson.

After a fantastic lunch it was off to a leather factory where they put on a fashion show in an attempt to lure some Turkish Lira from the hip pockets of gullible tourists. I sat out in the car park and when Alice returned with the news that she had purchased a beautiful red jacket I could not have been happier.

Our next stop was the home of the Virgin Mary. There is no definite proof that she spent her last days here but there are strong indicators that she did.

The Catholics and Muslim faiths however do recognize the site and as a result many pilgrims travel here. A baptismal pool was discovered in 1961 which is not far from the church which has been reconstructed on this site.

There were many people at the site and our guide had to restrain the many pensioners who caused a stampede when they saw the church. You would have thought they were going to expire before they could get inside.

Outside the church there is a fresh water spring that is supposed to have been blessed and once again there was a mad crush to get to this potent elixir. I managed to fill my water bottle and will see if it has an impact on my receding hair line.

There is also a wishing wall. You write a note on a piece of paper and stuff it into the wall amongst the thousands of other notes. It is like a miniature version of the Wailing Wall in Jerusalem.

Next stop was the Temple of Artemis which was recognized as one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. These days there is a big hole, a few building blocks and a column where this great temple once stood. You just have to use your imagination.

A riot nearly occurred as our mini van made the turn into a carpet factory. It was a unanimous decision and our driver who also did not wish to go in quickly turned around and took us back into town. He joined the majority of us in the consumption of a few beers in the local cafe/park.

After 100 TL of beers we adjoined to the terrace of his hotel for further relaxation. It was an impromptu event which we all enjoyed over more beer, wind and some take away Turkish Pide (pizza).

To make it a memorable evening we also had a small earthquake that registered about 3.5 on the Richter scale.

SCINTILLATING SANTORINI

Saturday 2nd October – Scintillating Santorini

A wonderful breakfast on our balcony this morning has prepared us for a day out. All I have to do is too remember to keep driving on the right hand side. After a couple of near misses and a little help from Alice, I started to get a feel for the driving. My major problem was that every time I indicated, I inadvertently turned on the windscreen wipes. Just hate the sound of rubber scraping across dry glass.

Our road map was a little dodgy and after a couple of wrong turns we ended up at the beach of Monolithos. The word mono would neatly describe this beach as it was impacted by the wind and tide.

Big piles of sea grass were lumped in mounds on the beach with plenty more in the water to take its place. I think I spotted one person on a deck chair.

We then headed down to Kamari beach, found a parking space and went for a walk along the boulevard. There was less wind and the sun worshipers were out in force. The black sand was a good contrast to the white, red and brown bodies that were stretched out on the 6 Euro sun beds.

We continued walking to the end of the point past the many excellent tavernas who were promoting full english breakfasts. There is a huge headland at the end with yet another church in prime real estate position.

Next up we tackled a series of S-bends that took us to the top of the Mesa Vouno and the site of Ancient Thira. Alice had white knuckles by the end of this drive.

At 366 metres the view is stupendous. The site dates back to the 7th century BC with subsequent influences by the Roman and Byzantine periods. After walking around in the heat of the day we were parched and hungry so we headed off to another beach area named Perissa.

After lunch we decided to take advantage of the free sun bed that was on offer on the section of beach in front of our restaurant. We took a photo to prove that it was indeed free. The water was choppy and did not look inviting so we did not hang around for long.

Our drive then took us to a different part of the caldera which overlooked Balos bay. Incredible views the entire way to the end of the line at Cape Akrotiri where there is a lighthouse.

On the way back there was a dirt road with a sign that indicated Black Beach. We took a chance and discovered a real pearl. The beach was small and covered with smooth black rocks. The water was crystal clear and warm because it was sheltered from the wind. Even though it was late afternoon I had a great swim.

We then headed down to Red Beach which also looked a great spot for a day out. There is a boat service from here to another beach which is coincidentally called White Beach and also Black Beach. After a glass of wine and a glorious sunset that we shared with a couple of other people we drove back to the Blue Dolphin.

Sunday 3rd October - Oia, Santorini

Today we have to leave our lap of luxury and change to another room. We don't have the same view but nevertheless the room is still great.

My driving has improved dramatically and it is with some confidence that we head to the opposite end of the caldera for a look at Oia. This is the area where most people come to view the sunset and can be quite crowded even in the off peak. Today is no exception because overnight three large cruise ships anchored in the bay below our hotel.

There are many fine cafes that offer fantastic views at fantastic prices. Will I get over paying 10 Euro for two small coffees?

There are also many boutiques and one of them even managed to tempt Alice. The road down to the coast brought us out at the picturesque harbour of Ammoudi. As we were driving along the coast road we noticed a guy on a motorbike carrying a huge crab pot in one hand and smoking a cigarette with the other. The only thing missing was his mobile phone

After a late lunch we took in a couple of winery tours. The first tour was well organised and included an underground tour which detailed the history of the winery since the 1600's.

The grapes here are not grown on a trellis. The vine is woven in a basket shape very close to the ground. The grapes grown in the middle and are sheltered from the sun and also it produces humidity which helps to sustain the fruit as there is very little rainfall. The grapes are also protected from the strong winter winds.

The last winery, Gavala, was really worth the visit. We pulled up at about 6.00pm and were not turned away even though we were the only ones there. The wines we tried included three whites, a red and a sweet desert wine.

The red was a bit light and was not far off being a Rose. The whites were excellent with plenty of tannin and could be cellared for up to ten years. The desert wine is 8 years old and aged in Russian oak from Odessa. It is produced in the old way by squashing them with the feet. They say it oxygenates the wine and as a result requires no fortification. It is a great drop.

Monday 4th October – Alice versus the Volcano

After thinking about it overnight we decided to keep the car for one more day. At 30 Euro it was a reasonable bargain because we could use it to transfer us to the airport.

Alice went off to check out the shops in Fira whist I ventured out for more sightseeing. My driving has really improved as I only managed to stall the car four times and turn the windscreen wipers on only twice.

This afternoon we have an appointment with the sailing ship “Thalassa” to watch the sunset and explore the still active volcano (50 Euro each). To reach the port we have three options which were walk down (free) about 400 steps, ride a donkey (5 Euro each) or take the cable car (4 Euro each). We chose the cable.

The volcano is called Tholos Naftilos and the last eruption was in 1950. A major earthquake followed in 1954 which destroyed most of the buildings on Santorini. We had to walk about one kilometre uphill to view the steam that permeates out through the crater. Thongs were not a very good choice for footwear on this walk.

Our next stop was for a swim in the hot springs that bubble into the sea close inshore. I am still an Inala boy at heart so I had to be the first one into the water. Without prompting I launched myself off the deck with a 9.5 score for my near perfectly executed bomb dive.

The hot springs were a bit of a let down. The water was lukewarm and if it had been in my bathtub it would have been sent down the plug hole. The water was also very muddy and Alice will have some trouble getting her white rash top clean.

The next part of the trip was spent relaxing on deck as they unfurled the sails for a sunset cruise. I feel like Jimmy Barnes at the moment as I'm consuming cheap wine and have a three day growth.

I filled up on a range of Greek appetizers and four plastic cups of wine. We really enjoyed the trip and you certainly get a different perspective of the caldera from down on the water.

Back in port we were ready to take the cable car back up but were informed that there had been a malfunction. I suspect the donkey handler may have thrown a spanner in the works. As we did not fancy walking up the steps we joined the queue for a donkey ride to the top of the caldera.

After a twenty minute wait we boarded our beasts of burden and headed for the top. Alice had the smallest one and it soon exacted some revenge by ensuring that she scraped her knee on the concrete wall. Mine on the other hand was intent on trying to throw me over the edge. I might be exaggerating just a little but it sure felt like it. Where's Shrek when you need him!

Our verdict is that Greece is a fantastic destination. From the moment we arrived to the day we left the Greek people were absolutely fabulous.

Athens for us was a real joy and part of the reason was the locality of our hotel and the ease of walking around or catching the metro. Every island was terrific but in a close call Alice and I would choose Naxos. For those much younger than us it would be Mykonos and Santorini.