Tuesday 30th November – The List
To get myself motivated I compiled a 10 point list over breakfast. There are some easy wins on the list like have a shave while the more difficult ones involve a strenuous walk to high view points. Let's see how things work out over my remaining time in Pokhara.
Feeling in the mood for a walk I donned my hiking boots and headed for the other end of Lakeside where I could hire a canoe. I ended up engaging a boat man to paddle me across the lake (one off the list) where I could walk up a steep trail to the Peace Pagoda.
My paddler was an old Nepali of indeterminate age who managed to keep us moving at a steady rate. Close to the shoreline there were a few ducks, water fowl and the most beautiful Kingfisher with light blue wings. After 45 minutes we reached the point where the trail to the Peace Pagoda began. As per our arrangement the boatman was to wait here until I returned from the walk.
The Pagoda can be seen from all over Pokhara as it stands sentinel high on a ridge overlooking the lake and the town. The trail went straight up from the shoreline and I soon felt the strain in my legs (two off the list) as I moved slowly up through the forest.
I encountered a few tourists coming down so I knew I was on the right path. When I reached the small plateau at the top I had great views of the lake, the urban sprawl of the town and of course the snow capped mountain ranges.
The Peace Pagoda is an imposing Buddhist Stupa with a huge gilt edged statue of Buddha as it's centre point. A few of the faithful were circling the structure in a clockwise direction. I was given a strange look as I was going around in the opposite direction.
I stayed 15 minutes before heading back down the lake. All up it is about 45 minutes up and another 25 minutes down if you ever intend a visit. A leisurely paddle back across the lake and past the old palace and we were back.
This little jaunt cost 600RP for the boat hire and was well worth it.
Numbers three and four off the list were quickly deposed of as all I had to do was book a bus ticket back to Kathmandu on the Greenline bus ($US18) and reserve my room at Kathmandu for four nights. The only snag at this point is that I could only confirm the first three nights. I have had no luck in booking a half day of rafting as there is no demand at the moment.
Wednesday 1st December – The Bike Ride
There is a lot of cloud out today so I will not bother trying to arrange a paragliding outing today. A trip on a bicycle seems more in order so I will try and find a half decent one to hire.
As I am starting to look like Santa Claus it was time to knock number five from the list and have a cut throat shave from a Nepali barber. While I was at it the barber gave me a haircut which combined with the shave has made me look ten years younger (56). The only downside is that when he gave me a head massage I could smell something like curry on his hands.
This barber has everything so I hired a bicycle for 100RP for a half day. The bicycle has no gears but that should be no problem as the terrain is reasonably flat around the lake. Strike number six from the list.
With my trusty bicycle and Pokhara map I went off in search of the Himalayan Mountain Museum. A couple of wrong turns down by the airport but I soon found the museum. The entry fee for foreigners is 300RP which is a reasonable price for this facility.
One of the more interesting sections is the different ethnic tribes that inhabit Nepal. The displays show traditional clothing and the various implements and utensils that were/are used in daily activities.
Other sections cover the flora and fauna as well as information on the 14 highest peaks. Also on display is the equipment that was used by some of the earliest mountain expeditions. There is a large area that has nothing on display and sadly the exhibits have not been increased or updated since my last visit with Alice in 2004.
Trusting my sense of direction I headed downhill in search of the Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave. I saw a sign that pointed me through a bazaar area which I wheeled the bike through and came out at a set of steps that led down to the cave entrance. After paying my 100RP entrance fee I descended into the depths of the cave which has some religious importance to the Hindus.
There are two shrines on the upper levels which you cannot photograph. To ensure obedience there are caretakers stationed where you least expect them. A few twists, turns and a climb down an old ladder brings you to the bottom.
This area seems to be connected to the Pardi River as you can hear the water rushing through the deep chasms. It was pretty stuffy, not much light and smelt like my barbers hands so I was glad when I reached the surface. My verdict was that it deserved a look but not highly recommended.
Just across the road was the entrance to Devi's Fall which was named after a Swiss woman who drowned there whilst bathing in the 1960's. The entrance fee was 20RP, a bargain.
The concourse is fenced off but you get a good view of the river flowing over the sandstone rock before it tumbles down the falls. The more interesting part of this area were the number of Nepalese men and women who elected to pee behind the bushes rather than use the toilet at the top of the steps.
Headed back to Phewa Lake and spent a good hour riding along the shoreline. It was good just to watch people going about there daily activities. I knew it was time to return the bike as I was feeling butt sore from the hard seat.
After resting up I went out to meet up with Matt and Sean the two English guys I had met earlier in the trek. It was a good night as we exchanged war stories, drank a few beers and shot some pool. I knew it was time to go when the shutters to the front door came down.
The boys kicked on but I decided it was time for bed. I was led out the back entrance and made my way along the dark and tourist deserted street to my hotel. I jumped the fence as the gate was closed and crawled into bed just before midnight. A very late night by my standards.
Thursday 2nd December – Sarangot (1592 metres)
There are no clouds this morning so I may hire a taxi for a trip up to Sarangot to see if I can get a good view of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna Himalayan Ranges.
I did eventually hire a taxi for 600RP and headed up this rather large hill at about 11.00am. There is a 25RP fee for entering the Sarangot area to help maintain paths and facilities for the area. The taxi drops you off a few hundred metres from the summit and then it is a good 30 minute walk to the top.
Once at the summit it is an incredible view when the clouds are not glued to the side of the mountains. I spent a bit of time watching the paragliders and the eagles riding the thermals. They could have stayed up in the sky for hours if they had wanted. That little trip made number seven off the list.
Number eight on the list was a massage so late in the afternoon I scheduled an hour's appointment.
I went for a trekkers special at the cost of 1400RP which is expensive by Nepal standards. The massage establishment is recommended by the Lonely Planet so that may explain the high price.
The massage was delivered by a young Nepali man who was quite vigorous with his technique. I think he may have worked out a few kinks and replenished some of the missing oil from my dry skin.
My last night in Pokhara was a quiet one. Just a light feed and a beer with the English before hitting the sack.
Friday 3rd December – Back to Kathmandu
Up nice and early to catch the 8.00am to catch the more upmarket Greenline bus to Kathmandu.
The bus itself is up to expectations with comfortable seats and plenty of leg room. We departed on schedule and made good time before our first toilet break. A large blanket of fog blocked out most of the scenery. We pulled up for lunch at the Riverside Hotel which is on the Kathmandu side of Mugling just before 11.00. The food was included in the ticket price and was quite good.
On our way again and we were making good time when the bus curse struck again. About 90 minutes out from Kathmandu the traffic just stopped. After a 30 minute delay we started crawling up the mountain. I did not see any signs of an accident but there were a number of broken down vehicles which did reduce the road width to one vehicle.
When we reached the top of the range and with the Kathmandu Valley below I estimated that we had lost about 2.5 hours. I was in good spirits and then the traffic stopped again.
We stop-started our way into the valley for the next 3 hours. To amuse myself I started reading the names on the trucks heading in the opposite direction. The one I liked best said “Road King – No Time For Love”.
When we eventually cleared the traffic I could only surmise that It was a traffic policeman at the one key intersection that caused the problem. At just before 8.00pm we pulled into the bus terminal and ended our 12 hour bus trip. At least I have a room booked and a refreshing shower beckons.
I shared a taxi with two Aussie girls who are also staying at the hotel.
I decided to have a cup of coffee on the house prior to checking in which proved to be a poor decision. When I had finished the night clerk sheepishly informed me that there were no rooms left but one would be available in the morning.
That was all I needed after the horror bus trip. They did help me carry my bags to another establishment that they are affiliated with called the Rosebud Hotel. I now feel like an extra in the great Orson Wells movie “Citizen Kane”. The room is small but clean and after stowing my bags I went out for a meal and a beer. Back at the hotel I chanced a shower in the dark as there is no electricity due to load shedding. The one moment of joy was that the shower was hot.
Saturday 4th December – Find a New Hotel
My room faces the street so I expected a little bit of noise, especially from barking dogs. They did not disappoint and woke me up around 3.30am. After that I could hear people banging what sounded like plastic and also the early risers on their way to work. Just to finish me off there were pigeons on the balcony cooing non-stop.
Daylight please do not tarry so that I can escape this nightmare.
The first hotel that I tried was called the Tibet Guesthouse. The room that they showed me had a television, wardrobes, chairs and supposedly 24hour electricity and hot water. The price was $US20 and the location is down a dead end street so the noise should not be an issue. I had not eaten breakfast so I paid the 300RP ($4.50) and took advantage of the buffet.
After filling up on food and a few cups of coffee I went back to the Rosebud and checked out. They were willing to go the extra yard to retain my patronage but my mind was made up because I did not want another early morning of pigeons.
After checking in to my new digs I decided to venture out for a little shopping. I managed to relieve my wallet of at least 10000RP on some small items like DVD's, woolen beanies and pashminas. All that shopping and associated bargaining has worn me out.
After a small meal of pizza It is off to bed with a good book.
Sunday 5th December – Mountain Flight
My early wake up call at 5.20am startled me out of a deep sleep with no disturbing annoyances to wake me up throughout the night. I am up early as I have booked a morning mountain flight which is due to take off at 7.00am.
The taxi dropped me at the airport at around 6.30am which I thought would give me plenty of time. I was right for once as 7.00 came and went. Luckily I had packed a book so I was able to wile away the time in the freezing departure lounge. Just after 8.00 our Guna Airlines flight bounced down the runway and lifted us off towards the Himalayas.
The aircraft only had two seats in each row which meant everyone on board had a view of the mountains.
The mountain range extended from Langtang to Makalu with the two biggest being Everest (8848m) and right next door Lhotse (8516m). One of the highlights was being invited up to the cockpit where the pilot pointed out Everest for me. The odd thing was at the angle I was looking from made it seem smaller.
All too soon (45 minutes) the flight was nearing the end and I had to resist the temptation to buy the Guna Air Everest T-Shirt.
After a very late breakfast I decided to visit the Monkey Temple. My first thought was to hire a taxi but I ended up in a rickshaw as I thought this would allow me to see more of Kathmandu.
The rickshaw has no gears and my driver pedaled and weaved his way through the traffic. We passed over one river which smelt and looked toxic as it appeared to be a dumping ground for the city's waste. When we arrived at a steep hill I had to alight and assist the driver (my choice) to push the rickshaw to the top.
The steps leading up to the temple cover about three tiers and a very steep and high. There were quite a few monkeys at the base of the steps all on the lookout for a free feed. They did not bother me but I had to run the gauntlet of salesmen on one level prior to beggars on the next who were mostly women with babies.
I passed quite a few Nepali's who were struggling their way to the top. Paying a 200RP entrance fee entitled me to a terrific view of Kathmandu and a good look at all the shrines and temples. In one of the trees there was a big flock of buzzards nesting.
There were still plenty of monkeys with young babies hanging around but one of the more disturbing sights was the number of sick looking dogs. Going back down the steps I slipped but just managed to avoid a nasty fall not to mention embarrassment.
My rickshaw driver waited for me and pedaled, with a little help from his friend, back to the hotel.
The afternoon and evening was spent relaxing, shopping, eating and drinking not necessarily in that order.
Monday 6th December – Shopping
A rather late start today as I just lounged about after breakfast reading a book and generally being lazy. I finally motivated myself for a few hours and just browsed through a few bookshops and stores.
A lot of time was also spent declining offers of assistance, step into my shop and hashish. I read in the paper today that a dumb Polish guy was picked up at the airport trying to smuggle out six kilos of hashish. What was even more stupid was that the plane was headed for Bangkok. Ah well, some people will get banged up abroad.
I did manage to purchase a couple of books and some Chinese ripoffs of popular television series such as America's Next Super Model. As usual I had my farewell meal at the Everest Steak House which was delicious and superbly complemented by two Everest beers.
Tuesday 7th December – Singapore
I was awake quite early this morning most likely due to the fact that I have to pack my bags for my flight to Singapore. At least I will not be traveling via India! Before settling my bill I will have to make a short trip to the ATM as I don't want to pay a 3% surcharge for the privilege of using my credit card.
Given that I was leaving for the airport a little before 11.00 I did not expect to be caught in a traffic jam. My resourceful taxi driver knew I did not want to be late so he took a back road and then scampered through a dusty bus terminal. We ended up avoiding a small delay and arrived with time to spare.
The Kathmandu terminal is always a chaotic scene as there is insufficient space to cater for all the departing passengers. Never worry though as there is always a handful of Nepali's who specialize in managing tourists through the minefield.
My first helping hands took my luggage and guided me to the security check-in where he said goodbye and relieved me of 100RP.
At security I had to open up the big back-pack as they had seen a mysterious package inside. Luckily for me I am not Polish and all they discovered was Jemma and Telissa's TV-DVDs. One good thing however is that there was no departure tax to be paid and so I now have just over 2000RP to splurge on another trip?
Never to fear after security another stepped in and with the help of another guided me to the Silk Air counter. After thanking them for their help and donating another 100RP each I headed for the immigration counter and another security check.
I then headed for the sanctuary and comfort of the business class lounge. Oh, those poor plebs below do not know what they are missing out on! Plush carpet, clean toilets, good food and drink and a view of the monkeys that inhabit the upper echelons of the airport.
I don't think I have ever seen monkeys at an airport before, although I have seen quite a few galahs.
I headed for the departure gate about twenty minutes prior to departure and joined another line for a security check. In Nepal there is a separate line for men and women as you can only be patted down by the same sex.
I did not have to hang around the departure lounge as they were already boarding the flight. Ah, I thought perfect timing. I could not have been further from the truth as I think the traffic delays I encountered had an impact on other travelers. Eventually, we took off for Singapore only one hour late.
At least in business class I could knock back a cheeky little French red.
Flight time from Kathmandu to Singapore is 4.5 hours and I must say that it was highly enjoyable, shades of Jane Hornibrook's trip to Japan.
The customer service that I received was exceptional. After my meal I sat back and relaxed with a few Brandies and contemplated life after business class. One of the other joys of not traveling cattle class is the priority treatment you receive.
First off the plane, no queue at immigration and your baggage is first on the carousel. After expediting myself through customs I went to the hotel reservations counter and picked up a room at Hotel 81, Geylang for $S50. A quick taxi ride and I was checked into my hotel before 10.00pm. A couple of Carlsberg beers from the 7/11 store and a little television finished my day off.
Wednesday 8th December – Goin' Home
I was really surprised at how good my room was given the price I paid. It was not large but was clean and comfortable and did not smell of cigarette smoke. Although not in the heart of Singapore it is only a ten minute walk to a MRT station.
I hit the streets a little after eight in search of breakfast. At this juncture in life I still cannot do an Asian breakfast but I did manage to find a place that did boiled eggs, toast and coffee. With a couple of hours to kill I just hung around my room watching Star movies.
My trip to the airport was uneventful but I did manage to tell the driver the wrong terminal. It was not a problem as I had plenty of time and could catch the skytrain to terminal 1. As I was early check -in was a breeze so I headed for the Emirates lounge to wile away a couple of hours before take off. Oh, I forgot to mention that I spent a few miles (thanks Alice) and upgraded to Business Class.
The lounge here at Singapore is beautifully decorated and you can also take a shower if required to freshen up. I however am content to sample some of the fine food and quaff a couple of glasses of champers prior to flying home into the arms of my loved ones.
Flying Emirates business class obviously has a few perks like priority luggage, fine food, wines etc however I now understand why Brian Bothwell does it on every trip between Brisbane and Dubai. Those reclining seats just keep folding down into a comfortable bed and a mattress is provided on request. It is an expensive hotel room but it is definitely worth it. I did manage to watch a couple of movies and work my way through the range of wines on offer, including the port.
Thursday 9th December – Home
Touch down Brisbane 12.50am. No queues, no delays and I was out through customs within twenty minutes of landing.
It was great to walk out and have Alice, Jemma and Telissa waiting for me. I have missed them and a big hug was in order. It is now back to reality and work next Monday.
I hope you all enjoyed my ramblings, so until next time safe travels, a Merry Christmas and great 2011.
Saturday, December 11, 2010
Friday, December 3, 2010
The End of the Road
After having a cup of Lemon Tea and some soup I was feeling a little better so I washed my socks and jocks again. Lost a fair amount of dirt but my hands froze in the water. Seeing I was on a cleaning rush I tried for a shower but that was a mistake. I dabbed under my arms and washed my face before calling it quits.
Went for a walk through the village and saw a number of shops selling trekking gear, so I might make a purchase because it is really cold. There were a number of bakeries selling delicious looking treats but I don't know how long they have been sitting in the display case. There are about three internet cafes so even though the rates were expensive I rang my darling wife to let her know that I was still alive and to forward the latest
installment.
Back at the hotel I was so cold that I emptied my backpack to find my long johns and gortex jacket. I'm feeling a bit brave so I ordered a Yak steak for dinner. It came on a sizzling platter with chips and was tender with a good taste. Netre seconded an extra blanket for me so at last I am nice and warm.
Thursday 18th November – Manang Rest Day
Woke up feeling pretty good with no ill effects from the Yak steak. No sun out this morning and it looks like it is snowing on the peaks. I need to go for a hike uphill today with my guide. The idea is too trick the body with the altitude by going up to a higher height and then back down again. This is one tactic to prevent acute mountain sickness (AMS) which has caused a few deaths and severe illness in this area.
We headed out of town at around 9.00am and were accompanied by a blanket of cloud. As we left the township we passed many Buddhist prayer wheels which are common in the area. It was all uphill and I was not out of breath which is good. After about 30 minutes it started to snow lightly.
Another first! As we continued uphill we passed herds of goats and a few cows and horses. I don't know what sustains them as there is virtually no grass in this very lunar like landscape. The snow started getting heavier and I was forced to put on some wet weather gear. I am concerned if this continues as it may make the high pass unsuitable to go over and I assume that there is much more snow at an altitude of over 5400 metres.
We are due to make our attempt to go over the pass in three days time so I have said a little prayer to God to assist me in my dream of completing the circuit. It continued to snow until about lunch time and I have seen a small patch of blue sky. Time will tell.
This afternoon I'll just relax and go for a short walk around Manang. After dinner I will spend a little time sorting out my kit as I need all the warm weather gear near the top of the bag. I don't envisage that I'll be having a wash for a few days but in this cold I am not sweating.
Friday 19th November – Yak Kharka (4018m - 9km)
I decided on another Yak Steak for dinner last night which may be the last time I eat it. Also had a reasonable sleep and probably snored. Headed off at around 8.15 for Yak Karka and the first section to Ghusang was quite steep. I was struggling for air on the slopes once again. At least today the weather was reasonably fine with only a few spots of snow. Along the way we had some good views of Chulu West (6419m) and Chulu East (6429m). There were also a couple of eagles flying up high on the thermals. We reached Yak Kharka at 11.45am and settled into the Thorung Peak Hotel. The rooms are basic and I can assure you very cold.
After lunch I joined three French people and climbed the hill behind the hotel. The idea again was to get to a higher altitude and then come back down. It was very steep and we passed a small herd of grazing Yaks. They are very timid and bolt as soon as you get too close for a photograph.
As we went higher I thought we might see the Von Trapp family singing the Sound of Music. We eventually called it quits and made our way back down before it became too cold. I have holed up in the restaurant as they have a fire fueled by Yak sh..... At least I am feeling warmer in this environment. I'll hang out here until after dinner and then hit the sack for another early night.
Saturday 20th November – Thorung Phedi High Camp (4925m - 8km)
For breakfast
this morning I had the light trekkers feed of tea, toast with honey, fried potato and two boiled eggs.. I pocketed the eggs for later and start off with Netre just after 8.ooam.
The trail up to Ledar (4200m) was a gentle slope and I had no difficulty walking. My breathing although short is a lot better today as I'm not gasping for air. Just prior to reaching the suspension bridge which leads you into Ledar , Netre pointed out two wild alpine deer on a nearby ridge.
At Ledar I took the opportunity to fill my water bottle at the safe water station. The last section into Thorung Phedi (4450m) was a lot steeper and harder but the amazing scenery helped to keep me going.
Once again I had the Garlic soup for lunch to ward off the possibility of sickness and vampires. I'm lucky that no one is sharing close quarters with me because I must reek of garlic. Originally we were going to stay overnight at Thorung Phedi and head for the high pass at 3.00am. This plan changed when the group that I have been walking with since Manang decided that they would bivouac at the High Camp.
The walk up to High Camp is very steep and just under 500 metres higher. It was a matter of putting one foot in front of the other and sucking in the big ones. After about one hour (1.00pm) and a lot of huffing and puffing we reached the camp. My immediate thought was that I was glad that I did not have to do that section at three in the morning. When we were given the key to room 220 I collapsed on my skinny bed with the thin mattress. After a while I roused myself and warmed my bones in the afternoon sun.
Relaxed and brimming with energy (not) I walked up to the top of a nearby knoll (5000m) to take in the majesty of God's work. The mountains are so close and they seem to surround you. Back down and the sun has disappeared behind one of the peaks. The temperature is so cold that I cannot help but shiver.
Back to my room to rug up and take some Panadol, Diamox and some tissues for my runny nose. I have also been sneezing uncontrollably. I hope it is only the high altitude causing this and not the onset of a head cold.
I found a place by the oven to keep warm but some Japanese women in a Down Jacket just planted herself at my back and stole my warmth. If I was not such a nice person, I would have thrown her off the mountain.
It will be another early night as there is absolutely nothing to do but sleep and stay warm. A cup of black tea and a feed of Dal Baht and it is off to bed.
Sunday 21st November – Thorung La Pass (5416 metres - 14km) and Muktinah (3760 metres)
During the night I had to get up twice for the toilet and that was when I could hear the wind howling down the mountain. When Netre woke me at 3.45am I just put on the rest of my clothes like a zombie and packed my bag. By 4.00am we were over at the restaurant having a cup of tea with all the other mad hatters.
There were quite a few sensible ones who remained in bed. When we set off at 4.15am it was dark and the wind was howling with a vengeance. My fingers, nose and lips felt like they were frozen as we slowly made our way upwards. Netre held the torch and lit the path so that I would not stumble over any loose rocks. The wind kept buffeting us but we trudged on.
I can say it is a real challenge to suck in oxygen at this altitude because your lungs are operating at around one third capacity.
Although I was getting only short breaths my breathing was not laboured. You just have to take very short, slow steps and keep moving. After a number of false summits we finally reached Thorung La Pass (2.5 hours) which is the highest pass in the world. The wind was even stronger here and it was freezing. It was time to take the all important photograph so I whipped off my glove and presto the battery was flat.
I took shelter from the wind inside a small teahouse that operates in season and ordered a cup of tea for 100RP. I tried changing the battery but still could not get enough power to operate it. You will just have to believe me!
Started heading down to Muktinah at 7.15am on what is probably the hardest section. It is 1656 metres down a path that is mostly steep with a lot of loose gravel which could easily cause a fall. It was getting colder and my ears, fingers and toes felt like ice.
After about 30 minutes I started to get some feeling back as did Netre who did not have an adequate jacket. By this time I could start to feel the pain in my quads, gluts and knees and Muktinah was nowhere in sight. The landscape s still spectacular and has a Tibetan feel to it. Just a lot of rock, not much greenery and a little snow.
After one hour my toes began to hurt from my feet sliding forwards in my boots. I really had to slow the pace otherwise I would have done some real damage. I did not bring much water and I was beginning to feel dehydrated when a few teahouses came into view. I quickly ordered a litre of water and felt a lot better after drinking half a bottle.
Kept going down for another hour before we reached the outskirts of Muktinah. There are a number of large monasteries in the area and you get great views of Nilgiri (7061m) and Dhaulagiri (8172m). I barely gave them a glimpse as all I want to do is get to a guesthouse and remove my boots to inspect the damage.
You could not imagine my chagrin when we walked right through the centre of town to the very last hotel. My feet were aching and I just wanted to stop. We ended up at the Hotel Dream Home which promises a hot shower and a power socket to recharge the camera batteries. My room on the third floor has an excellent view of the mountains and is quite pleasant.
The first order of business was to try out the shower which was gas operated. The water was just warm enough to allow me to wash my hair and the other nooks and crannies. while I was charging the batteries I went down and had lunch on the sunshine patio. It was great with no wind and all that sunshine on my back to warm me up.
After a couple of hours I returned to my room just to relax as I do not have enough energy to go wandering around town. I have given my toenails a clipping and both big toes have coped a hammering If they are still sore in the morning I'll try a few bandaids as we have another day of downhill trekking.
I must have been in the room for a while as Netre came and got me for dinner. They had some coals burning under the table which made it very pleasant. I tried a pizza for dinner and it was edible but not what you would call great. Went back to my room at 7,15pm and as I walked up the steps I could really feel it in my legs. I think that I would rather go uphill than downhill when it is of that distance.
Monday 22nd November – Jomson (2720metres - 19km)
It is supposed to be a six hour walk to Jomson and it is down another 1040 metres so it is going to be another 8.15am start.
Prior to leaving I applied a couple of heavy duty band-aids to both my big toes in order to reduce the pain when going downhill. As I was brushing my teeth I glanced in the mirror and too my surprise I noticed that my nose had suffered a little frostbite.
The trail was a combination of both trail and road and when a 4x4 went past it was a matter of covering your face so that you did not swallow mouthfulls of dust. In short time we passes the villages of Jharkot (3550m) and Khingar (3280m).
There is not a lot of vegetation but I suspect that in summer the area would be a little greener. As we were approaching Kagbeni (2800m) my feet started to hurt but the band-aids have assisted in that big descent.
At Kagbeni I gave them a rest while having a cup of tea. It was too early for lunch so we headed to the next village of Ekle Bhatti (2740m). Lunch took a little over one hour which really rested up my feet.
The walk into Jomsom followed the Kali Gandaki river and I saw a few interesting sights apart from the panorama. One was the head of a Yak with the horns intact resting on a pole. The other was a shepherd with a big herd of sheep coming down from the high pastures to the river. I also saw some locals fossicking for Ammonite Fossils in the dry section of the riverbed.
We reached Jomson which is the administrative centre for the Mustang region at around 2.15pm. All up I think the 19km took about 4.75 hours. The guides have picked out the Hotel Majesty and I could not be happier. The room comes equipped with it's own bathroom and western toilet and has three beds with doonas. I won't have to break out the sleeping bag tonight and I can order a big pot of tea without the fear of having to go outside for a toilet break.
Another bonus is that I have a television so I will be able to watch all the latest Bollywood movies.
After a nice hot shower I went for a walk around town mainly to buy some Vaseline for my chaffed thighs. There are a few nice hotels, bakeries, coffee shops and internet cafes. I tried one but there was no connection available at the time. The wind was starting to howl so I hightailed it back to the hotel and had a nice cup of tea in the warmth of the dining room. How very English of me.
All in all I'm glad that I did not decide to press on for another two hours to the village of Marpha. I have to remember that I'm not in the Great Race and that I should take my time and enjoy everything around me.
Tuesday 23rd November – Kalopani (2530 metres - 23km)
Last night I broke my no alcohol rule by having a a glass of the local apple brandy. A couple more of those and I would have been under the table. In terms of television I found an American movie to watch starring the "I'm not fat", Stephen Segal. Nothing like a bit of blood and guts to put you off to sleep high in the Himalaya's .
Most people are not walking the section between Jomson and Tatopani as they are opting for a bus or a flight back to Pokhora. As I would like to complete the majority of the trip on foot I have decided that I would not join the masses and instead walk the 23km to Kalopani.
We hit the road just after 8.15am under an overcast sky which was hinting at rain. I think that Netre would have been happier sitting on a bus than lugging my bag. The one good thing about the overnight rain is that there will be no dust from the vehicles traversing the road. The road/trail continues to follow the Kali Gandaki river which at the moment is not in full flow.
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onsequently there are wide expanses of exposed small boulders that form the base of the river's bed. We reached the village of Marpha (2670m) which is famous for it's apples after about one hour. There were also a lot of cultivated fields and livestock.
The next village was Tukuche (2590m) which operates a distillery for making apple and peach brandy. There is also a Buddhist Gompa and a couple of nice lodges. Continuing on after a short rest we came to the joint villages of Kobang (2560m) and Larjung (2550m) where we broke for a well deserved lunch.
I must say that I enjoyed the walk as the scenery was quite good and we were able to leave the road in places. I met up with two English lads in their twenties and spent a bit of time talking with them as we walked. We appear to be the only ones on the trail at present.
After lunch we crossed a very wide area of the riverbed and then traversed a suspension bridge that took us away from the road and put us on the old trail that I last walked in 1992. This section took us through the world's deepest gorge which I think is called the Kali Gandaki and is over 8,000 metres deep.
We passed a number of small farms and houses before reaching Kokhethanti (2545m). These areas now seem to be in a bit of a time warp as they do not get the same numbers of trekkers that they used to. Kalopani could be seen in the distance and after crossing an old wooden suspension bridge we reached the outskirts of the village. Kalopani is situated in a narrow valley surrounded by pine trees with the river hugging the edge at the lowest point.
Our lodgings for tonight are at the See You Lodge which was recommended to us by a German couple that we met heading towards Jomson. I have gone upmarket for the attached bathroom again and managed to have the price reduced from 500 RP to 400RP which is about six dollars.
Apart from not having a television this is the best room so far. I have a double bed and they even supply towels. The owner was nice and recommended that I use the common shower that operates on gas as my bathroom operates on solar power – no sun today. It was a relief to pull off the boots after six hours of walking. I have a couple of small blisters on my second toes which
I suspect were caused from rubbing on the big toe band-aids. I may have reassess my no bus policy for a short section. The shower exceeded expectations and was the hottest that I have had so far whilst trekking. I may be clean but the clothes I have to put back on are getting a little high. The owners of this hotel have done a good job by putting in decent fittings including an ar... shower and also a beautiful little garden full of Marigolds and other flowers.
Wednesday 24th November – Tatopani (1190 metres - 20km)
Last night was a big one as during my dinner we started drinking apple brandy. What started out as one glass bought by John a solo retired traveler from Alaska turned into three bottles. It was a good night but in the end I had to farewell John and the two young English guys (Rob and Chris). I woke up remarkably well and could enjoy the wonderful view from my bedroom. Chris on the other hand learned a valuable lesson which was not to mix beer and brandy. He had a nasty reaction and managed a projectile vomit that made a mess of his room and the patio below. At breakfast John treated me to a couple of cups of filtered coffee from the brew that he had brought with him.
The sun is out today and I was up early enough to see the rays of light glistening off the tips of the peaks while the rest of the mountains and valley were draped in shadow. Did not hit the trail until a very late 9.15am. The reason for the late start was that Netre and I were going to walk three hours to Ghasa (2010m) and then catch one of the many buses from there to Tatopani.
As we left Kalopani we had great views of the Dhaulagiri Ice Fall and Mt Dhaulagiri the 7th highest mountain on the planet. Directly opposite was Annapurna 1 and at 8091m is ranked number ten.
The walk itself was not to taxing as it was mostly downhill and did not always follow the gravel road. At one stage I saw a large Languor monkey lope across the trail before disappearing into a thicket of trees. We had made pretty good time and reached Ghasa at 11.30am. After completing the necessary formalities at the ACAP checkpoint we walked down to the bus stand.
There were heaps of buses at the terminal so we made inquiries about the next departure. Typical of all plans that I make relating to public transport in Nepal this one failed. The reason there were no departures was that there were not enough passengers. You mean two does not constitute a load!
There was a bus due from Jomson within the next hour so we decided to sit around and wait. Much to my surprise it arrived 15 minutes later but it was full and could not take us. Well I guess it was back to Shank's pony. I don't think Netre was too happy with the buses.
After Ghasa you can break away from the road and follow the old trail for about five kilometres but we opted for the road to save time. As there were no buses using the road it was a relaxing and enjoyable walk.
In this section the river sounds like thunder as it plummets down a narrow gorge. You can literally see the water boiling as it swirls around huge boulders. We had a ten minute rest at Kabra (1615m) to ease my aching feet. Not long afterwards I ran into the English lads who had caught a bus Ghasa and were now walking to Tatopani. They were breaking for lunch but I wanted to kick on to nearby Dana (1440m).
Finally took a break at 2.00pm and was glad to remove my boots and rest. A close inspection of my feet revealed another small blister under my toes. Some quick maintenance work with the band-aids and I'm as good as gold, sort of. A bowl of fresh tomato and onion soup, a mandarin and a forty minute break has revived me enough for the final push to Tatopani. Took a detour off the road to walk through the old village of Dana.
It was well worth it as I was able to watch some Nepali men ploughing their fields with water buffaloes whilst the women tended the crops. There were also lots of fruit trees and vegetables being grown. After eating a bit of Nepali powder that was generated by the buses returning to Jomson I staggered into Tatopani just before 4.00pm. What was supposed to be an easy day had turned into a 6.5 hour walk.
I was keen to stay at the Dhaulagiri Lodge where Alice and I stayed in 2004 as the facilities were quite good. The first room that I was shown was very tired, barren and smelt dank. I was shown a more expensive room which was a big improvement but it was also tired. They did not want to budge on their room rate of 450RP so I went across the road to the Hotel Himalaya.
The room I was shown here was also tired but the furnishings were okay and they reduced the rate to 250RP. No hot shower today but I managed to give myself a wash before heading down to dinner. My traveling companions from last night are also staying here so I had company over my alcohol free dinner. After todays journey an early night was what the doctor ordered.
Thursday 25th November – Tatopani Rest Day
Tatopani when translated into English means hot water and it is also famous for it's hot spring down on the banks of the river. My plan after breakfast is too wait until the sun envelopes the valley with it's warmth and then head down to the hot springs where I will soak in the recuperative waters. Ahhh!
I eventually made it down to the springs at around 11.00am and spent a couple of hours just relaxing. The water is quite hot and you need to hop out at regular intervals to avoid being a shriveled white prawn. The afternoon was spent at the roof top garden of the hotel just eating and allowing the tiredness in the legs to recede. At around 4.00pm I did the seven minute tour of the village, took a few photographs and chatted to some German trekkers who I had met earlier in the trek.
I even saw a huge vine of chokos growing which evoked some unpleasant childhood memories. I can still picture our vine, loaded with fruit, growing above the laundry gate and being forced to eat copious quantities of boiled, soggy choko for dinner.
Back at the hotel I picked up my laundry which I was too lazy to wash and went up to the garden until the last rays of daylight had disappeared. The only question mark on the day was the weather as it has been overcast since the early afternoon.
Tonight we celebrated Thanksgiving with John the Alaskan. He was buying beers which I declined but I could not say no to the apple crumble and custard for desert. Into bed just after eight as it is back on the road tomorrow for some arduous uphill walking.
I was just about asleep when the contingent of Indians who are staying here decided to call it a night. They have absolutely no idea how noisy they are and must think that they are the only guests. For at least 45 minutes there were banging doors and shouting up and down the hallways which have the most amazing acoustics. I secretly made plans to get even when I awake tomorrow.
Friday 26th November – Shikha (1935 metres), Ghorepani (2860 metres - 14km)
Foiled! The Indians must have organised wake up calls for 5.30am. It started with the management knocking on doors prior to he baton being passed to the guests. The contingent did a marvelous task and the cacophony of noise did not abate until after 7.00am. My conclusion is that the group must be heading to Muktinath for a Hindu religious pilgrimage and they had to be up early to catch a bus. At least I am heading in the opposite direction.
The plan for today is to start later (8.40am) and walk as far as Shikha where I can rest overnight before the last grind up the mountain to Ghorepani. The trek today is all uphill but the one compensating factor is the great views. Not long before we reached Ghara(1700m) Netre pointed out a nice little “weed” crop.
At a rocky outcrop atop a rise we rested and bought water and mandarins. This section of the route was very appealing as we walked under a canopy of trees in what could be described as a temperate forest. The hillsides in the area are under cultivation and the main crop is rice. I finally called a rest stop after 3.75 hours on the topside of Shikha.
Over a bowl of tomato soup I changed plans and decided to plug on to Ghorepani (Horse Water). There were three reasons for the change of plan and they were that the hotel in Shikha looked crappy, my legs and breathing were good and I could arrive Pokhara early. Besides I would have had to sit around all afternoon twiddling my thumbs.
The trail actually gets steeper in this section and it is a matter of putting one foot in front of the other. Just have to ensure that I pace myself and that there is sufficient energy to keep my legs pumping.
The landscape is changing slightly and it is getting colder the higher we go. Obvious Der! After about 80 minutes we passed through the village of Chitre (2390m). There are a few small waterfalls and streams in the area that cascade down the hill over mossy boulders. The Rhododendron Forest adds another dimension to the area with ancient looking trees covered in lichen.
I knew that I was close to Ghorepani when I saw my first blue building. Apparently it is custom or a village rule that all the buildings are blue.
At about 3.45pm we arrived at the Hill Top Hotel which I think Alice and I stayed at in 2004. I remember that we had to keep walking up and that it was the last hotel on Poon Hill. The trek up Poon Hill starts here. Thought I would risk a shower and was surprised when the hot water started to flow.
I am now nice and refreshed as well as clean and can sit back and reminisce about the day. Todays walk distance wise was not as long as some but the altitude increased by slightly over 1700 metres. Some say that this section is the world's longest staircase and the analogy is not far from the truth.
It will be early to bed tonight as I am praying that on this occasion there will be no cloud cover in the morning to spoil the view of the Annapurnas from Poon Hill. The walk up takes a little over an hour and you have to get up at about 5.00am if you want to see the sunrise.
Saturday 27th November – Poon Hill (3193 metres) and Ghandruk (1940metres)
When I looked out the window this morning at 4.30am there was not a cloud in the sky and the stars were shining. With high expectations I jumped out of bed and geared up for the one hour walk up to Poon Hill.
It was an amazing scene with all the headlamps and torches lighting the way up. It looked like a trail of Argentine ants or a Thamel traffic jam due to the high numbers of trekkers heading up.
When we reached the summit I would estimate that there were at least 200 people up there. The walk was worth it as God gave us a beautiful sunrise that highlighted the majesty of the Himalayas.
The camera battery was playing up again but I did manage to take a few photos after removing the battery and warming it up in my hot little hands.
After breakfast it was time to head off in the direction of Tadapani (2630m). The first hour of walking was mostly uphill which was not to bad as we were walking through the Rhododendron Forest which provided shade from the sun.
After passing through the Deurali Pass (3090m) we continued on to the village of Ban Thanti (3180m). From this area we had great views of Annapurna South (7219m) and the sacred mountain Machhapuchhre (6997m). This mountain is also known as Fishtail and by law has never been climbed. It was at this point that the trail became a bit of a nightmare.
The map indicated that it was a steep trail and it was. For the next two hours it was all down and that played havoc with my knees and toes. The only respite was when I stopped to admire the small streams that were tumbling down the adjacent gorge. I was so happy when the trail started going up again towards Tadapani. Thirty minutes traveling up was like heaven. I gave the feet a good rest over lunch in order to prepare myself as it is another 700 metre descent to Ghandruk.
The first 45 minutes of this section was reasonably flat as we walked through the forest. It was like walking through the forest on Lamington plateau. There were ferns, moss, decaying leaf matter, numerous small streams and the sunlight barely penetrated the leafy canopy above us.
As we approached the top of a small hill there was a troop of at least 20 Langur monkeys. They were all very skittish but we managed to get close to a large male who was eating the moss from the base of a tree. As we approached he scampered up the tree and joined a couple of the younger ones. As soon as we passed he came back down and went to the moss delicacy that he had been sucking on earlier.
After that short interlude it was back to the knee jarring descent. On the outskirts of Ghandruk I was lucky enough to spot two Himalayan Hens. They are like a big chook with bright markings almost like a peacock. The village of Ghandruk is quite large and well laid out. The path down is well maintained and bordered by a stone wall on both sides.
Tonight we are staying at the Trekkers Inn Hotel and again I was lucky enough to have a hot shower.
Afterwards I applied liberal amounts of Tiger Balm to my knee joints and calves in the hope that it will relieve some of my aches and pains. Unfortunately my big toes have suffered again and they will be in need of a couple of band-aids tomorrow.
Over dinner I chatted to a British couple and a Dane who also had similar complaints regarding the downhill sections. Hopefully a good nights rest after walking for over eight hours will put me in good stead for tomorrows downhill challenge.
Sunday 28th November – Pokhara (820 metres)
Woke up feeling reasonably pain free so I guess Tiger Balm really does work or it maybe just a placebo affect. Anyhow we set off after breakfast on the final big descent (720m) of the trek. Ghandruk is probably the largest and cleanest village that I have encountered in all my travels of Nepal.
The paths are well maintained and the descent in this part at least is not as hard as yesterday. There is another trail on the outskirts of the village which drops rather steeply into a valley and then ascends to the village of Landruk (1565m).
This is an alternative route to Pokhara which I will not travel as it adds another five hours to the walk. Both of these routes are the gateway to the Annapurna Sanctuary which is one of the most popular treks in Nepal.
Further down the trail I started to encounter a few Donkey and human trains hauling goods and supplies to the villages that support the ABC trek. I noticed one porter carrying a huge load that included a television and it wasn't an LCD model.
The only problems with the donkeys is that you have to be on the inside as they could easily knock you over the edge of the trail. You also have to be careful where you step as they leave a lot of waste.
I made good time and finished the descent after 1.75 hours at the village of Syauli Bazar (1220m). From here it was a relatively flat walk following the Modi River. An hour later we arrived at Birethanti (1025m) which is also serves as the main route to Ghorepani. After lunch it was a short stroll to Nayapul to catch a bus to Pokhara.
When Alice and I traveled this way in 2004 there were only a few buildings in Nayapul and the trail to Birethanti was quite beautiful. Regrettably this area has developed into a shanty town. Unlike Ghandruk, the buildings look like hovels and there is a lot of filth around. A road has been constructed and these structures line both sides all the way to the once beautiful Birethanti.
Enough wingeing, I have a bus to catch! After a ten minute wait a bus for Pokhara arrived. There were plenty of spare seats so I jumped on and thought how good is this. We traveled another 100 metres up the road and the driver pulled over, turned off the motor and went on a thirty minute lunch break.
After all this is Nepal and you just have to go with the flow. A busker took advantage of the break and serenaded us for a few rupees. The bus conductors loaded on a few more people, stacked quite a few bags of rice in the aisle and relieved me of 150RP for the trip. I could have caught a taxi for 1500RP but what would be the fun of that? The journey took about 1.75 hours with only a few stops for extra passengers.
The hotel that I chose is called the Peace Plaza. The deluxe room has a view of the lake and a small balcony where I can catch the afternoon sun and relax with a couple of beers. Tonight I will farewell Netre and shout him a dinner at an upmarket restaurant. I had forgotten how much a hungry Nepali could eat.
He took one look at his half a tandoori baked chicken and decided that he would need a dal baht top up. He stuck with tradition and scooped up his meal using his right hand which is a very effective utensil.
It was a good night and we finished up with Netre shouting me a Nepali whiskey which was quite smooth.
I managed to walk about 220km over 17 days and finished the trek three days early due mainly to a couple of big walking days. The trip is something that I have wanted to do for at least the last fifteen years and can at last cross it off my bucket list.
The journey was a physical challenge which I could not have completed without the aid of a porter. The trek itself takes you through an amazing cultural and geographical landscape which will leave you in awe.
My only tip is - do it soon as the roads that are being built are connecting communities but are altering the fabric of this fantastic area.
Went for a walk through the village and saw a number of shops selling trekking gear, so I might make a purchase because it is really cold. There were a number of bakeries selling delicious looking treats but I don't know how long they have been sitting in the display case. There are about three internet cafes so even though the rates were expensive I rang my darling wife to let her know that I was still alive and to forward the latest
installment.Back at the hotel I was so cold that I emptied my backpack to find my long johns and gortex jacket. I'm feeling a bit brave so I ordered a Yak steak for dinner. It came on a sizzling platter with chips and was tender with a good taste. Netre seconded an extra blanket for me so at last I am nice and warm.
Thursday 18th November – Manang Rest Day
Woke up feeling pretty good with no ill effects from the Yak steak. No sun out this morning and it looks like it is snowing on the peaks. I need to go for a hike uphill today with my guide. The idea is too trick the body with the altitude by going up to a higher height and then back down again. This is one tactic to prevent acute mountain sickness (AMS) which has caused a few deaths and severe illness in this area.
We headed out of town at around 9.00am and were accompanied by a blanket of cloud. As we left the township we passed many Buddhist prayer wheels which are common in the area. It was all uphill and I was not out of breath which is good. After about 30 minutes it started to snow lightly.
Another first! As we continued uphill we passed herds of goats and a few cows and horses. I don't know what sustains them as there is virtually no grass in this very lunar like landscape. The snow started getting heavier and I was forced to put on some wet weather gear. I am concerned if this continues as it may make the high pass unsuitable to go over and I assume that there is much more snow at an altitude of over 5400 metres.
We are due to make our attempt to go over the pass in three days time so I have said a little prayer to God to assist me in my dream of completing the circuit. It continued to snow until about lunch time and I have seen a small patch of blue sky. Time will tell.
This afternoon I'll just relax and go for a short walk around Manang. After dinner I will spend a little time sorting out my kit as I need all the warm weather gear near the top of the bag. I don't envisage that I'll be having a wash for a few days but in this cold I am not sweating.
Friday 19th November – Yak Kharka (4018m - 9km)
I decided on another Yak Steak for dinner last night which may be the last time I eat it. Also had a reasonable sleep and probably snored. Headed off at around 8.15 for Yak Karka and the first section to Ghusang was quite steep. I was struggling for air on the slopes once again. At least today the weather was reasonably fine with only a few spots of snow. Along the way we had some good views of Chulu West (6419m) and Chulu East (6429m). There were also a couple of eagles flying up high on the thermals. We reached Yak Kharka at 11.45am and settled into the Thorung Peak Hotel. The rooms are basic and I can assure you very cold.
After lunch I joined three French people and climbed the hill behind the hotel. The idea again was to get to a higher altitude and then come back down. It was very steep and we passed a small herd of grazing Yaks. They are very timid and bolt as soon as you get too close for a photograph.
As we went higher I thought we might see the Von Trapp family singing the Sound of Music. We eventually called it quits and made our way back down before it became too cold. I have holed up in the restaurant as they have a fire fueled by Yak sh..... At least I am feeling warmer in this environment. I'll hang out here until after dinner and then hit the sack for another early night.
Saturday 20th November – Thorung Phedi High Camp (4925m - 8km)
For breakfast
this morning I had the light trekkers feed of tea, toast with honey, fried potato and two boiled eggs.. I pocketed the eggs for later and start off with Netre just after 8.ooam.The trail up to Ledar (4200m) was a gentle slope and I had no difficulty walking. My breathing although short is a lot better today as I'm not gasping for air. Just prior to reaching the suspension bridge which leads you into Ledar , Netre pointed out two wild alpine deer on a nearby ridge.
At Ledar I took the opportunity to fill my water bottle at the safe water station. The last section into Thorung Phedi (4450m) was a lot steeper and harder but the amazing scenery helped to keep me going.
Once again I had the Garlic soup for lunch to ward off the possibility of sickness and vampires. I'm lucky that no one is sharing close quarters with me because I must reek of garlic. Originally we were going to stay overnight at Thorung Phedi and head for the high pass at 3.00am. This plan changed when the group that I have been walking with since Manang decided that they would bivouac at the High Camp.
The walk up to High Camp is very steep and just under 500 metres higher. It was a matter of putting one foot in front of the other and sucking in the big ones. After about one hour (1.00pm) and a lot of huffing and puffing we reached the camp. My immediate thought was that I was glad that I did not have to do that section at three in the morning. When we were given the key to room 220 I collapsed on my skinny bed with the thin mattress. After a while I roused myself and warmed my bones in the afternoon sun.
Relaxed and brimming with energy (not) I walked up to the top of a nearby knoll (5000m) to take in the majesty of God's work. The mountains are so close and they seem to surround you. Back down and the sun has disappeared behind one of the peaks. The temperature is so cold that I cannot help but shiver.
Back to my room to rug up and take some Panadol, Diamox and some tissues for my runny nose. I have also been sneezing uncontrollably. I hope it is only the high altitude causing this and not the onset of a head cold.
I found a place by the oven to keep warm but some Japanese women in a Down Jacket just planted herself at my back and stole my warmth. If I was not such a nice person, I would have thrown her off the mountain.
It will be another early night as there is absolutely nothing to do but sleep and stay warm. A cup of black tea and a feed of Dal Baht and it is off to bed.
Sunday 21st November – Thorung La Pass (5416 metres - 14km) and Muktinah (3760 metres)
During the night I had to get up twice for the toilet and that was when I could hear the wind howling down the mountain. When Netre woke me at 3.45am I just put on the rest of my clothes like a zombie and packed my bag. By 4.00am we were over at the restaurant having a cup of tea with all the other mad hatters.
There were quite a few sensible ones who remained in bed. When we set off at 4.15am it was dark and the wind was howling with a vengeance. My fingers, nose and lips felt like they were frozen as we slowly made our way upwards. Netre held the torch and lit the path so that I would not stumble over any loose rocks. The wind kept buffeting us but we trudged on.
I can say it is a real challenge to suck in oxygen at this altitude because your lungs are operating at around one third capacity.
Although I was getting only short breaths my breathing was not laboured. You just have to take very short, slow steps and keep moving. After a number of false summits we finally reached Thorung La Pass (2.5 hours) which is the highest pass in the world. The wind was even stronger here and it was freezing. It was time to take the all important photograph so I whipped off my glove and presto the battery was flat.I took shelter from the wind inside a small teahouse that operates in season and ordered a cup of tea for 100RP. I tried changing the battery but still could not get enough power to operate it. You will just have to believe me!
Started heading down to Muktinah at 7.15am on what is probably the hardest section. It is 1656 metres down a path that is mostly steep with a lot of loose gravel which could easily cause a fall. It was getting colder and my ears, fingers and toes felt like ice.
After about 30 minutes I started to get some feeling back as did Netre who did not have an adequate jacket. By this time I could start to feel the pain in my quads, gluts and knees and Muktinah was nowhere in sight. The landscape s still spectacular and has a Tibetan feel to it. Just a lot of rock, not much greenery and a little snow.
After one hour my toes began to hurt from my feet sliding forwards in my boots. I really had to slow the pace otherwise I would have done some real damage. I did not bring much water and I was beginning to feel dehydrated when a few teahouses came into view. I quickly ordered a litre of water and felt a lot better after drinking half a bottle.
Kept going down for another hour before we reached the outskirts of Muktinah. There are a number of large monasteries in the area and you get great views of Nilgiri (7061m) and Dhaulagiri (8172m). I barely gave them a glimpse as all I want to do is get to a guesthouse and remove my boots to inspect the damage.
You could not imagine my chagrin when we walked right through the centre of town to the very last hotel. My feet were aching and I just wanted to stop. We ended up at the Hotel Dream Home which promises a hot shower and a power socket to recharge the camera batteries. My room on the third floor has an excellent view of the mountains and is quite pleasant.
The first order of business was to try out the shower which was gas operated. The water was just warm enough to allow me to wash my hair and the other nooks and crannies. while I was charging the batteries I went down and had lunch on the sunshine patio. It was great with no wind and all that sunshine on my back to warm me up.
After a couple of hours I returned to my room just to relax as I do not have enough energy to go wandering around town. I have given my toenails a clipping and both big toes have coped a hammering If they are still sore in the morning I'll try a few bandaids as we have another day of downhill trekking.
I must have been in the room for a while as Netre came and got me for dinner. They had some coals burning under the table which made it very pleasant. I tried a pizza for dinner and it was edible but not what you would call great. Went back to my room at 7,15pm and as I walked up the steps I could really feel it in my legs. I think that I would rather go uphill than downhill when it is of that distance.
Monday 22nd November – Jomson (2720metres - 19km)
It is supposed to be a six hour walk to Jomson and it is down another 1040 metres so it is going to be another 8.15am start.Prior to leaving I applied a couple of heavy duty band-aids to both my big toes in order to reduce the pain when going downhill. As I was brushing my teeth I glanced in the mirror and too my surprise I noticed that my nose had suffered a little frostbite.
The trail was a combination of both trail and road and when a 4x4 went past it was a matter of covering your face so that you did not swallow mouthfulls of dust. In short time we passes the villages of Jharkot (3550m) and Khingar (3280m).
There is not a lot of vegetation but I suspect that in summer the area would be a little greener. As we were approaching Kagbeni (2800m) my feet started to hurt but the band-aids have assisted in that big descent.
At Kagbeni I gave them a rest while having a cup of tea. It was too early for lunch so we headed to the next village of Ekle Bhatti (2740m). Lunch took a little over one hour which really rested up my feet.
The walk into Jomsom followed the Kali Gandaki river and I saw a few interesting sights apart from the panorama. One was the head of a Yak with the horns intact resting on a pole. The other was a shepherd with a big herd of sheep coming down from the high pastures to the river. I also saw some locals fossicking for Ammonite Fossils in the dry section of the riverbed.
We reached Jomson which is the administrative centre for the Mustang region at around 2.15pm. All up I think the 19km took about 4.75 hours. The guides have picked out the Hotel Majesty and I could not be happier. The room comes equipped with it's own bathroom and western toilet and has three beds with doonas. I won't have to break out the sleeping bag tonight and I can order a big pot of tea without the fear of having to go outside for a toilet break.
Another bonus is that I have a television so I will be able to watch all the latest Bollywood movies.
After a nice hot shower I went for a walk around town mainly to buy some Vaseline for my chaffed thighs. There are a few nice hotels, bakeries, coffee shops and internet cafes. I tried one but there was no connection available at the time. The wind was starting to howl so I hightailed it back to the hotel and had a nice cup of tea in the warmth of the dining room. How very English of me.
All in all I'm glad that I did not decide to press on for another two hours to the village of Marpha. I have to remember that I'm not in the Great Race and that I should take my time and enjoy everything around me.
Tuesday 23rd November – Kalopani (2530 metres - 23km)
Last night I broke my no alcohol rule by having a a glass of the local apple brandy. A couple more of those and I would have been under the table. In terms of television I found an American movie to watch starring the "I'm not fat", Stephen Segal. Nothing like a bit of blood and guts to put you off to sleep high in the Himalaya's .
Most people are not walking the section between Jomson and Tatopani as they are opting for a bus or a flight back to Pokhora. As I would like to complete the majority of the trip on foot I have decided that I would not join the masses and instead walk the 23km to Kalopani.
We hit the road just after 8.15am under an overcast sky which was hinting at rain. I think that Netre would have been happier sitting on a bus than lugging my bag. The one good thing about the overnight rain is that there will be no dust from the vehicles traversing the road. The road/trail continues to follow the Kali Gandaki river which at the moment is not in full flow.
C
onsequently there are wide expanses of exposed small boulders that form the base of the river's bed. We reached the village of Marpha (2670m) which is famous for it's apples after about one hour. There were also a lot of cultivated fields and livestock.The next village was Tukuche (2590m) which operates a distillery for making apple and peach brandy. There is also a Buddhist Gompa and a couple of nice lodges. Continuing on after a short rest we came to the joint villages of Kobang (2560m) and Larjung (2550m) where we broke for a well deserved lunch.
I must say that I enjoyed the walk as the scenery was quite good and we were able to leave the road in places. I met up with two English lads in their twenties and spent a bit of time talking with them as we walked. We appear to be the only ones on the trail at present.
After lunch we crossed a very wide area of the riverbed and then traversed a suspension bridge that took us away from the road and put us on the old trail that I last walked in 1992. This section took us through the world's deepest gorge which I think is called the Kali Gandaki and is over 8,000 metres deep.
We passed a number of small farms and houses before reaching Kokhethanti (2545m). These areas now seem to be in a bit of a time warp as they do not get the same numbers of trekkers that they used to. Kalopani could be seen in the distance and after crossing an old wooden suspension bridge we reached the outskirts of the village. Kalopani is situated in a narrow valley surrounded by pine trees with the river hugging the edge at the lowest point.
Our lodgings for tonight are at the See You Lodge which was recommended to us by a German couple that we met heading towards Jomson. I have gone upmarket for the attached bathroom again and managed to have the price reduced from 500 RP to 400RP which is about six dollars.
Apart from not having a television this is the best room so far. I have a double bed and they even supply towels. The owner was nice and recommended that I use the common shower that operates on gas as my bathroom operates on solar power – no sun today. It was a relief to pull off the boots after six hours of walking. I have a couple of small blisters on my second toes which
I suspect were caused from rubbing on the big toe band-aids. I may have reassess my no bus policy for a short section. The shower exceeded expectations and was the hottest that I have had so far whilst trekking. I may be clean but the clothes I have to put back on are getting a little high. The owners of this hotel have done a good job by putting in decent fittings including an ar... shower and also a beautiful little garden full of Marigolds and other flowers.
Wednesday 24th November – Tatopani (1190 metres - 20km)
Last night was a big one as during my dinner we started drinking apple brandy. What started out as one glass bought by John a solo retired traveler from Alaska turned into three bottles. It was a good night but in the end I had to farewell John and the two young English guys (Rob and Chris). I woke up remarkably well and could enjoy the wonderful view from my bedroom. Chris on the other hand learned a valuable lesson which was not to mix beer and brandy. He had a nasty reaction and managed a projectile vomit that made a mess of his room and the patio below. At breakfast John treated me to a couple of cups of filtered coffee from the brew that he had brought with him.
The sun is out today and I was up early enough to see the rays of light glistening off the tips of the peaks while the rest of the mountains and valley were draped in shadow. Did not hit the trail until a very late 9.15am. The reason for the late start was that Netre and I were going to walk three hours to Ghasa (2010m) and then catch one of the many buses from there to Tatopani.
As we left Kalopani we had great views of the Dhaulagiri Ice Fall and Mt Dhaulagiri the 7th highest mountain on the planet. Directly opposite was Annapurna 1 and at 8091m is ranked number ten.
The walk itself was not to taxing as it was mostly downhill and did not always follow the gravel road. At one stage I saw a large Languor monkey lope across the trail before disappearing into a thicket of trees. We had made pretty good time and reached Ghasa at 11.30am. After completing the necessary formalities at the ACAP checkpoint we walked down to the bus stand.
There were heaps of buses at the terminal so we made inquiries about the next departure. Typical of all plans that I make relating to public transport in Nepal this one failed. The reason there were no departures was that there were not enough passengers. You mean two does not constitute a load!
There was a bus due from Jomson within the next hour so we decided to sit around and wait. Much to my surprise it arrived 15 minutes later but it was full and could not take us. Well I guess it was back to Shank's pony. I don't think Netre was too happy with the buses.
After Ghasa you can break away from the road and follow the old trail for about five kilometres but we opted for the road to save time. As there were no buses using the road it was a relaxing and enjoyable walk.
In this section the river sounds like thunder as it plummets down a narrow gorge. You can literally see the water boiling as it swirls around huge boulders. We had a ten minute rest at Kabra (1615m) to ease my aching feet. Not long afterwards I ran into the English lads who had caught a bus Ghasa and were now walking to Tatopani. They were breaking for lunch but I wanted to kick on to nearby Dana (1440m).
Finally took a break at 2.00pm and was glad to remove my boots and rest. A close inspection of my feet revealed another small blister under my toes. Some quick maintenance work with the band-aids and I'm as good as gold, sort of. A bowl of fresh tomato and onion soup, a mandarin and a forty minute break has revived me enough for the final push to Tatopani. Took a detour off the road to walk through the old village of Dana.
It was well worth it as I was able to watch some Nepali men ploughing their fields with water buffaloes whilst the women tended the crops. There were also lots of fruit trees and vegetables being grown. After eating a bit of Nepali powder that was generated by the buses returning to Jomson I staggered into Tatopani just before 4.00pm. What was supposed to be an easy day had turned into a 6.5 hour walk.
I was keen to stay at the Dhaulagiri Lodge where Alice and I stayed in 2004 as the facilities were quite good. The first room that I was shown was very tired, barren and smelt dank. I was shown a more expensive room which was a big improvement but it was also tired. They did not want to budge on their room rate of 450RP so I went across the road to the Hotel Himalaya.
The room I was shown here was also tired but the furnishings were okay and they reduced the rate to 250RP. No hot shower today but I managed to give myself a wash before heading down to dinner. My traveling companions from last night are also staying here so I had company over my alcohol free dinner. After todays journey an early night was what the doctor ordered.
Thursday 25th November – Tatopani Rest Day
Tatopani when translated into English means hot water and it is also famous for it's hot spring down on the banks of the river. My plan after breakfast is too wait until the sun envelopes the valley with it's warmth and then head down to the hot springs where I will soak in the recuperative waters. Ahhh!I eventually made it down to the springs at around 11.00am and spent a couple of hours just relaxing. The water is quite hot and you need to hop out at regular intervals to avoid being a shriveled white prawn. The afternoon was spent at the roof top garden of the hotel just eating and allowing the tiredness in the legs to recede. At around 4.00pm I did the seven minute tour of the village, took a few photographs and chatted to some German trekkers who I had met earlier in the trek.
I even saw a huge vine of chokos growing which evoked some unpleasant childhood memories. I can still picture our vine, loaded with fruit, growing above the laundry gate and being forced to eat copious quantities of boiled, soggy choko for dinner.
Back at the hotel I picked up my laundry which I was too lazy to wash and went up to the garden until the last rays of daylight had disappeared. The only question mark on the day was the weather as it has been overcast since the early afternoon.
Tonight we celebrated Thanksgiving with John the Alaskan. He was buying beers which I declined but I could not say no to the apple crumble and custard for desert. Into bed just after eight as it is back on the road tomorrow for some arduous uphill walking.
I was just about asleep when the contingent of Indians who are staying here decided to call it a night. They have absolutely no idea how noisy they are and must think that they are the only guests. For at least 45 minutes there were banging doors and shouting up and down the hallways which have the most amazing acoustics. I secretly made plans to get even when I awake tomorrow.
Friday 26th November – Shikha (1935 metres), Ghorepani (2860 metres - 14km)
Foiled! The Indians must have organised wake up calls for 5.30am. It started with the management knocking on doors prior to he baton being passed to the guests. The contingent did a marvelous task and the cacophony of noise did not abate until after 7.00am. My conclusion is that the group must be heading to Muktinath for a Hindu religious pilgrimage and they had to be up early to catch a bus. At least I am heading in the opposite direction.
The plan for today is to start later (8.40am) and walk as far as Shikha where I can rest overnight before the last grind up the mountain to Ghorepani. The trek today is all uphill but the one compensating factor is the great views. Not long before we reached Ghara(1700m) Netre pointed out a nice little “weed” crop.
At a rocky outcrop atop a rise we rested and bought water and mandarins. This section of the route was very appealing as we walked under a canopy of trees in what could be described as a temperate forest. The hillsides in the area are under cultivation and the main crop is rice. I finally called a rest stop after 3.75 hours on the topside of Shikha.
Over a bowl of tomato soup I changed plans and decided to plug on to Ghorepani (Horse Water). There were three reasons for the change of plan and they were that the hotel in Shikha looked crappy, my legs and breathing were good and I could arrive Pokhara early. Besides I would have had to sit around all afternoon twiddling my thumbs.
The trail actually gets steeper in this section and it is a matter of putting one foot in front of the other. Just have to ensure that I pace myself and that there is sufficient energy to keep my legs pumping.
The landscape is changing slightly and it is getting colder the higher we go. Obvious Der! After about 80 minutes we passed through the village of Chitre (2390m). There are a few small waterfalls and streams in the area that cascade down the hill over mossy boulders. The Rhododendron Forest adds another dimension to the area with ancient looking trees covered in lichen.
I knew that I was close to Ghorepani when I saw my first blue building. Apparently it is custom or a village rule that all the buildings are blue.
At about 3.45pm we arrived at the Hill Top Hotel which I think Alice and I stayed at in 2004. I remember that we had to keep walking up and that it was the last hotel on Poon Hill. The trek up Poon Hill starts here. Thought I would risk a shower and was surprised when the hot water started to flow.
I am now nice and refreshed as well as clean and can sit back and reminisce about the day. Todays walk distance wise was not as long as some but the altitude increased by slightly over 1700 metres. Some say that this section is the world's longest staircase and the analogy is not far from the truth.
It will be early to bed tonight as I am praying that on this occasion there will be no cloud cover in the morning to spoil the view of the Annapurnas from Poon Hill. The walk up takes a little over an hour and you have to get up at about 5.00am if you want to see the sunrise.
Saturday 27th November – Poon Hill (3193 metres) and Ghandruk (1940metres)
When I looked out the window this morning at 4.30am there was not a cloud in the sky and the stars were shining. With high expectations I jumped out of bed and geared up for the one hour walk up to Poon Hill.
It was an amazing scene with all the headlamps and torches lighting the way up. It looked like a trail of Argentine ants or a Thamel traffic jam due to the high numbers of trekkers heading up.
When we reached the summit I would estimate that there were at least 200 people up there. The walk was worth it as God gave us a beautiful sunrise that highlighted the majesty of the Himalayas.
The camera battery was playing up again but I did manage to take a few photos after removing the battery and warming it up in my hot little hands.
After breakfast it was time to head off in the direction of Tadapani (2630m). The first hour of walking was mostly uphill which was not to bad as we were walking through the Rhododendron Forest which provided shade from the sun.
After passing through the Deurali Pass (3090m) we continued on to the village of Ban Thanti (3180m). From this area we had great views of Annapurna South (7219m) and the sacred mountain Machhapuchhre (6997m). This mountain is also known as Fishtail and by law has never been climbed. It was at this point that the trail became a bit of a nightmare.
The map indicated that it was a steep trail and it was. For the next two hours it was all down and that played havoc with my knees and toes. The only respite was when I stopped to admire the small streams that were tumbling down the adjacent gorge. I was so happy when the trail started going up again towards Tadapani. Thirty minutes traveling up was like heaven. I gave the feet a good rest over lunch in order to prepare myself as it is another 700 metre descent to Ghandruk.
The first 45 minutes of this section was reasonably flat as we walked through the forest. It was like walking through the forest on Lamington plateau. There were ferns, moss, decaying leaf matter, numerous small streams and the sunlight barely penetrated the leafy canopy above us.
As we approached the top of a small hill there was a troop of at least 20 Langur monkeys. They were all very skittish but we managed to get close to a large male who was eating the moss from the base of a tree. As we approached he scampered up the tree and joined a couple of the younger ones. As soon as we passed he came back down and went to the moss delicacy that he had been sucking on earlier.
After that short interlude it was back to the knee jarring descent. On the outskirts of Ghandruk I was lucky enough to spot two Himalayan Hens. They are like a big chook with bright markings almost like a peacock. The village of Ghandruk is quite large and well laid out. The path down is well maintained and bordered by a stone wall on both sides.
Tonight we are staying at the Trekkers Inn Hotel and again I was lucky enough to have a hot shower.
Afterwards I applied liberal amounts of Tiger Balm to my knee joints and calves in the hope that it will relieve some of my aches and pains. Unfortunately my big toes have suffered again and they will be in need of a couple of band-aids tomorrow.
Over dinner I chatted to a British couple and a Dane who also had similar complaints regarding the downhill sections. Hopefully a good nights rest after walking for over eight hours will put me in good stead for tomorrows downhill challenge.
Sunday 28th November – Pokhara (820 metres)
Woke up feeling reasonably pain free so I guess Tiger Balm really does work or it maybe just a placebo affect. Anyhow we set off after breakfast on the final big descent (720m) of the trek. Ghandruk is probably the largest and cleanest village that I have encountered in all my travels of Nepal.The paths are well maintained and the descent in this part at least is not as hard as yesterday. There is another trail on the outskirts of the village which drops rather steeply into a valley and then ascends to the village of Landruk (1565m).
This is an alternative route to Pokhara which I will not travel as it adds another five hours to the walk. Both of these routes are the gateway to the Annapurna Sanctuary which is one of the most popular treks in Nepal.
Further down the trail I started to encounter a few Donkey and human trains hauling goods and supplies to the villages that support the ABC trek. I noticed one porter carrying a huge load that included a television and it wasn't an LCD model.
The only problems with the donkeys is that you have to be on the inside as they could easily knock you over the edge of the trail. You also have to be careful where you step as they leave a lot of waste.
I made good time and finished the descent after 1.75 hours at the village of Syauli Bazar (1220m). From here it was a relatively flat walk following the Modi River. An hour later we arrived at Birethanti (1025m) which is also serves as the main route to Ghorepani. After lunch it was a short stroll to Nayapul to catch a bus to Pokhara.
When Alice and I traveled this way in 2004 there were only a few buildings in Nayapul and the trail to Birethanti was quite beautiful. Regrettably this area has developed into a shanty town. Unlike Ghandruk, the buildings look like hovels and there is a lot of filth around. A road has been constructed and these structures line both sides all the way to the once beautiful Birethanti.
Enough wingeing, I have a bus to catch! After a ten minute wait a bus for Pokhara arrived. There were plenty of spare seats so I jumped on and thought how good is this. We traveled another 100 metres up the road and the driver pulled over, turned off the motor and went on a thirty minute lunch break.
After all this is Nepal and you just have to go with the flow. A busker took advantage of the break and serenaded us for a few rupees. The bus conductors loaded on a few more people, stacked quite a few bags of rice in the aisle and relieved me of 150RP for the trip. I could have caught a taxi for 1500RP but what would be the fun of that? The journey took about 1.75 hours with only a few stops for extra passengers.
The hotel that I chose is called the Peace Plaza. The deluxe room has a view of the lake and a small balcony where I can catch the afternoon sun and relax with a couple of beers. Tonight I will farewell Netre and shout him a dinner at an upmarket restaurant. I had forgotten how much a hungry Nepali could eat.
He took one look at his half a tandoori baked chicken and decided that he would need a dal baht top up. He stuck with tradition and scooped up his meal using his right hand which is a very effective utensil.
It was a good night and we finished up with Netre shouting me a Nepali whiskey which was quite smooth.
I managed to walk about 220km over 17 days and finished the trek three days early due mainly to a couple of big walking days. The trip is something that I have wanted to do for at least the last fifteen years and can at last cross it off my bucket list.
The journey was a physical challenge which I could not have completed without the aid of a porter. The trek itself takes you through an amazing cultural and geographical landscape which will leave you in awe.
My only tip is - do it soon as the roads that are being built are connecting communities but are altering the fabric of this fantastic area.
Thursday, November 18, 2010
Just a leisurely stroll
Wednesday 10th November – Dogmandu
Two of the things that do not change in Kathmandu is the continuous hawking of the local residents, careful where you step and the electricity load shedding.
Since our last visit it would appear that little money has been spent on upgrading infrastructure. The potholes in the roads are getting larger and the traffic thicker. Anyway I made some purchases and headed down the road to the Everest Steakhouse. A medium fillet steak served with chips, vegetables and a light pepper sauce which I washed down with an Everest beer was just what the doctor ordered. Really good value at just under $10. After the meal I navigated my way safely through darkened streets back to the hotel.
I needed a shower to get the dust and accumulated grime off me and was pleasantly surprised when the water came out nice and hot. The hotel has a generator so I had some light to read a little before dropping off to sleep. There was plenty of noise outside with someone letting off fire crackers, motorbikes and the ubiquitous barking dogs. Maybe the local authorities will consider changing the name to “Dogmandu”.
Thursday 11th November – A Quiet Day!
I woke at around six, feel reasonably refreshed and ready for breakfast. The hotel has a great garden area where you can dine and relax away from the outside madness.
After breakfast I went out hunting for the rest of my trekking supplies. I did not get lost this morning and soon found the trekking store that Jemma and I used in 2008. My plan was to jog his memory and hope that he would take pity on me and discount the prices. I was lucky as at that point in time I was the only customer and I do believe that he remembered Jemma and I as I was able to pinpoint the time that his uncle died.
In the end I spent $75 on a torch, sunglasses, windproof North Face (Fake) jacket, waterproof garters and another bag. Overall it was pretty good value. My next purchases were at the supermarket whee I bought a chocolate bar, toilet paper, tissues and some detol hand wash. After all this activity I needed a break so I settled in for a Yak cheese sandwich and a pot of black tea at one of my favourite spots the Pumpernickle Cafe. The food was good as usual but the outdoor area has really deteriorated.
When I arrived back at the hotel I jumped onto the lifesaver “Skype” and made contact with my Darlin'. It is always a pleasure when you can speak with someone that you love. It was also time to settle my trekking account which was just over 20000 rupees. I tried ringing Jemma and my sister Annie but all I got was the infernal message bank.
Well I needed some more cash to settle my hotel account and to fund my accommodation and food whilst trekking. After walking around for ages I managed to snare 10000 rupees which will at least settle my bill at the hotel and pay for dinner. There was a problem with a couple of the ATM's.
I was supposed to meet my guide at 6.00pm but he had shown up early and I had missed him by 10 minutes. The only saving grace was that my permits and bus tickets were available. It may have been serendipity as I gave Jem a call and this time she answered her mobile. We had a good chat before her battery ran out. After a short rest I decided to go out for dinner. As I past the Everest Steakhouse I dropped in and made a booking for another serving of iron laden red meat. My main goal however was to top up my cash for the trek. I finally found an ATM that was working but typical of banks they slugged me about $6 for the privilege of using their machine.
Back at the Everest I ordered the pepper steak once again and was not disappointed. I washed it down with a bottle of Everest and two red wines. The bill tonight was a measly $17. Back to the hotel I went to settle up my account and prepare for an early morning start. The bill for 2 nights accommodation, 2 large beers, 1 breakfast and laundry came to a staggering $55. You can bet “That I'll be back”.
Friday 12th November – On The Road Again
My 5.45am wake up call has jolted me out of a good night's sleep. My bags are packed and I am ready to leave at 6.45am on the tourist (no stops) bus to Besishahar (760 metres). My guide Netre has organised a taxi that gets us to the bus terminal with time to spare.
Our bus is nothing special and the leg room is non existent. After about one hour we finally escaped the clutches of Kathmandu's urban sprawl. The two young guys who do everything on our mini bus were touting for extra passengers as we drove out of town. So much for being a non stop service. As usual when I catch a bus in Nepal something goes astray. This time it was only minor as the bus blew out a rear tyre. A good excuse to get out and stretch my legs.
After four and a half hours we stopped just short of Mugling for lunch. At around 1.30pm we arrived at Dumre where the guys proceeded to fill the bus. When we left it was pretty squeezy.
About 25km from Besishahar we came to a sudden halt as the bus that was five minutes ahead of us had a head on collision with another bus. Luckily nobody was seriously hurt but traffic was at a standstill. After 90 minutes the police moved the vehicles which could have been done 80 minutes earlier. This delay provided a golden opportunity for the bus as none had been through for a while and we were the first in the queue. The boys packed them in like sardines. Eventually we arrived at our destination a mere 9 ¼ hours after we started.
Netre has decided that we will spend the night at the New Tibet Hotel. On inspection it looks like the old Tibet. The room is small and I will gauge how the sharing goes tonight. I'm too tired to argue and have a splitting headache as a result of dehydration and a kinked neck from the bus trip. A couple of Nurofern and plenty of water should fix me up.
Saturday 13th November - Syange (1100 metres)
Surprisingly, I had a good night's sleep despite the noise made by the Nepalese guests who came home after 10.00pm. The meals were just Okay but they filled the void. My plan for today was to catch a bus to Bhulbhule (try saying that with your mouth full) and then catch a jeep to Syange.
The bus departed at 8.00am and for once we were not jammed in. Best plans always go astray as there were no jeeps that had spare room available. I had no choice but to follow in the footsteps that Jemma and I made in 2008.
We set off at 9.00am and were traveling at a nice easy pace that I felt I could keep up. The road follows the Marsyangdi River and you are rewarded with fantastic scenery and waterfalls. Along the way you could see women and men working at harvesting rice. Water Buffalo tethered to a stake walked in endless circles crushing the rice underfoot. The good news at the moment is that my feet are not giving me an real trouble. I have to remember to rest at least every 90 minutes so that my feet can breathe.
I kept hoping for a jeep but nothing came along. On one section I looked down to the river and spotted 8 kayakers who were absolutely flying. At about 1.00 pm it started to rain quite heavily (it is supposed to be the dry season) so we took shelter in a teahouse.
After about an hour we continued on slushing our way through the mud. Finally reached Syange at 3.00pm but we only did about 4.5 hours of walking. My guide had no choice on accommodation as I wanted to stay at the Waterfall Guesthouse where Jemma and I stayed. The room is cheap but the food by Nepalese standards is expensive. One price for tourists and another for the guides which is not a problem considering how much they are paid.
Netre has told me that he is receiving 650RP per day out of the 1100RP that I paid the agency. Everyone has to make a profit. It will be early to bed again and still no alcohol has passed my lips. All I have for a drink is water and black tea and a little soup. The meal tonight is a break from Dal Bat so I hope the vegetable momo is up to scratch.
Sunday 14th November – Tal (1700 metres)
After a good nights sleep Netre and I hit the trail at 7.30am blessed with sunshine. The road has now been extended way past Syange almost to Jagat. The road/trail continued to follow the Marsyangdi River. I have never seen so many waterfalls in such a short stretch. We reached Jagat (one guesthouse even promised a high speed internet connection) after 1.5 hours and pushed on to Chyamche which was where it all went to hell for poor Jem in 2008. After resting and taking a few photographs we pushed on.
This is where the trail really begins to get hard. There are lots of loose stones and rocks and you are continually running into donkey trains who don't give an inch. The trail is mostly ascending but you do get an occasional respite with flat ground. The last uphill section before Tal really takes it out of you but when I spied a huge eagle soaring on the air currents my spirits lifted.
Just doing this reminded me of the courage that Jem displayed when she tackled this section feeling as sick as she did. When Tal came into view it lifted my spirits to know that I had nearly finished walking for the day. Walking time was about 5 hours and my feet were just beginning to get sore. I doubt that I could have gone much further without a big rest.
The guesthouse is called Mona Lisa and I had a room by 1.00pm. It is the typical style with wooden floors and detatched bathrooms. Hot water was promised so I jumped in for my first shower since Kathmandu. I would not say it was cold but I just was able to bear the water. It was also a good opportunity to hand wash my socks and jocks. Hopefully the cold wind that has replaced the sunshine will dry them by morning. There is a safe water station here so I will fill my water bottle and do my bit for the environment by not buying plastic. It is pretty cold so I might even get the long johns out tonight.
Monday 15th November – Chame (2670 metres)
This morning I have taken time out to remember my Mum whose birthday it would have been today. She may be gone but she is not forgotten.
Netre and I started walking at 7.45 am with the intention of reaching Dharapani as early as possible. Our path is still following the Marsyangdi River which has a milky blue colour.
There have been plenty of trekkers heading back down and as I'm such a friendly person I always greet them with good morning. The majority of them could barely grunt and if they did it was almost surly. Maybe they have had enough of trekking and want some of the good life again. My guess is that they are French.
The other surprising thing is the high number of trekkers who appear to be older than me. Well we made Dharapani by 10.15 which was ahead of schedule. I lingered for a while and took a few photos to remind Jemma of the place she spent four days trying to recuperate. After completing our trekking formalites at the checkpoint and devouring a boiled egg we continued on to Bagarchhap. From this point we had a good view of the snow caped peak of Manaslu.
We stopped for lunch at Danakyu and I filled up on some fried potato. After a half hour break and my feet well rested it was time to move on. At a restaurant five minutes up the road we encountered a German trio whom we spent the night with in Tal. They had decided to spend the night in Thanchok as they were not confident of reaching Chame. I had similar thoughts and said that I might see them there.
About 15 minutes after leaving them I began the long and arduous ascent to the village of Timang. I have to say that the climb really took it out of me and I'm glad that Jem never had to tackle it when she was sick.
Even though it was cloudy (beautiful sunshine until about 11.30) and cold I was sweating like a pig. The view from the top was terrific as you could look back at the villages hundreds of metres below. From Timang the trail flattened out somewhat which made it easier for walking. We were walking through pine forests and every now and then you would come across a pit where two Nepalese manually worked a two handed saw to cut trunks into usable timber planks.
After reaching Thanchok at 3.00pm I decided to try for Chame as it would make tomorrows trek more bearable. There was another checkpoint at Koto and the police officer on duty reckoned that there was not much accommodation available at Chame due to a large police presence. Netre reckoned he knew a place so we soldiered on. Twenty minutes later we were on the outskirts of Chame and straight into the Nurpu Linga Guesthouse.
I have to say this is the best room so far. It is clean, nicely laid out and has a power point so I can recharge the camera battery. The shower was also a warm trickle but it was sufficient to get the days grime off of me.
By the time I got back to my room I was freezing so I jumped under the blankets fully clothed and contemplated the days walk. I calculated that we must have walked for at least 7.5 hours plus breaks. It was a good test for the feet which just held up today. I think that I might need to take more frequent breaks.
Down for dinner at 5.45 and my extremities were numb from the cold. When I least expect it something good happens. The lady who owns the place came in with a stone slab and a brazier full of hot coals. The first thing I did was warm the pinkies and toes. It felt soooo good when the blood started circulating again. Dinner was good and was same, same. There are two English guys (Sean and Matt) staying here so we stayed up late until 9.00pm just chatting. Nice guys and it was great to have a chin wag in English even if it was only for a short time.
Tuesday 16th November – Upper Pisang (3300 metres)
Would definitely recommend the Nurpu Linga Guesthouse as the hospitality was great and they even have a western style toilet. Today we set off at 8.00am and it to ok about 30 minutes to walk from one end of Chame to the other. It is a big village with a doctor, high school and of course an internet cafe that charges 20RP a minute.
The police were out in force and some were carrying riot equipment. Apparently there is a dispute regarding who was awarded a contract for building a road in the area.
The trail is still following the right bank of the river and it is mostly flat with a small incline. The pine forest needles that line the path dampens the noise of your footsteps. The big plus this morning is that we have sunshine and a clear view of Annapurna 2 (7937m) and Annapurna 4 (7525m).
I think I must have had a slight touch of mountain sickness as I had a slight headache and a dry throat. I popped a Diamox tablet just in case the symptoms got worse. One thing with this tablet is it creates the need to pee so I ended up taking a few breaks.
After crossing the river to the left bank via the swing bridge we had our first and only steep incline. It was no where as bad as yesterday so I put my head down and plugged away at the slope.
The one thing I have noticed is that I am really short of breath when tackling any of the uphill sections. I come good as soon as it flatens out so I suspect that it has to do with the altitude. Not long afterwards we reached Dhikur Pokhari where we broke for lunch. It was great sitting in the sun eating a vegetable noodle soup.
From here it was only a one hour walk to Pisang. The accommodation did not look that great at Lower Pisang so I headed uphill to Upper Pisang. The walk up was straight up for 100 metres but it was certainly worth it. The Annapurna range is so close that you can almost touch the mountains.
We were the first ones to arrive at the Manang Marshyangdi Hotel at about 2.15pm so had the pick of the rooms. The hotel has completely filled up and the last guests to arrive were the English Matt and Sean who have the double bed in the honeymoon suite. Lucky guys!
Wednesday 17th November – Manang (3540 metres)
A very cold night at Upper Pisang but the view was worth it. The food was a bit ordinary and was probably the worst Dal Baht so far. The majority of trekkers are taking the high route for the views but I have settled on the flatter low route to conserve energy and time.
Started trekking around 8.00am but was soon interrupted by a funeral procession at Lower Pisang. It was a Budddist funeral where all the men followed the pall bearers. The women were nearby canting and humming.
The trail to Manang was quite easy with only one small incline. I'm glad that I took the lower path as I am struggling today. I feel like throwing up and my back aches. The views of the mountain ranges are great and I had good vision of Mt Pisang (6091m), and some of Chulu peaks which are also around the 6000m mark.
Today was a first as I headed down the hill towards Humde I was able to touch snow for the first time. I continued to struggle and after a few rest breaks we reached Manang just before 1.00pm.
Another first today, this is the highest altitude that I have ever reached without a plane!
Two of the things that do not change in Kathmandu is the continuous hawking of the local residents, careful where you step and the electricity load shedding.
Since our last visit it would appear that little money has been spent on upgrading infrastructure. The potholes in the roads are getting larger and the traffic thicker. Anyway I made some purchases and headed down the road to the Everest Steakhouse. A medium fillet steak served with chips, vegetables and a light pepper sauce which I washed down with an Everest beer was just what the doctor ordered. Really good value at just under $10. After the meal I navigated my way safely through darkened streets back to the hotel.
I needed a shower to get the dust and accumulated grime off me and was pleasantly surprised when the water came out nice and hot. The hotel has a generator so I had some light to read a little before dropping off to sleep. There was plenty of noise outside with someone letting off fire crackers, motorbikes and the ubiquitous barking dogs. Maybe the local authorities will consider changing the name to “Dogmandu”.
Thursday 11th November – A Quiet Day!
I woke at around six, feel reasonably refreshed and ready for breakfast. The hotel has a great garden area where you can dine and relax away from the outside madness.
After breakfast I went out hunting for the rest of my trekking supplies. I did not get lost this morning and soon found the trekking store that Jemma and I used in 2008. My plan was to jog his memory and hope that he would take pity on me and discount the prices. I was lucky as at that point in time I was the only customer and I do believe that he remembered Jemma and I as I was able to pinpoint the time that his uncle died.
In the end I spent $75 on a torch, sunglasses, windproof North Face (Fake) jacket, waterproof garters and another bag. Overall it was pretty good value. My next purchases were at the supermarket whee I bought a chocolate bar, toilet paper, tissues and some detol hand wash. After all this activity I needed a break so I settled in for a Yak cheese sandwich and a pot of black tea at one of my favourite spots the Pumpernickle Cafe. The food was good as usual but the outdoor area has really deteriorated.
When I arrived back at the hotel I jumped onto the lifesaver “Skype” and made contact with my Darlin'. It is always a pleasure when you can speak with someone that you love. It was also time to settle my trekking account which was just over 20000 rupees. I tried ringing Jemma and my sister Annie but all I got was the infernal message bank.
Well I needed some more cash to settle my hotel account and to fund my accommodation and food whilst trekking. After walking around for ages I managed to snare 10000 rupees which will at least settle my bill at the hotel and pay for dinner. There was a problem with a couple of the ATM's.
I was supposed to meet my guide at 6.00pm but he had shown up early and I had missed him by 10 minutes. The only saving grace was that my permits and bus tickets were available. It may have been serendipity as I gave Jem a call and this time she answered her mobile. We had a good chat before her battery ran out. After a short rest I decided to go out for dinner. As I past the Everest Steakhouse I dropped in and made a booking for another serving of iron laden red meat. My main goal however was to top up my cash for the trek. I finally found an ATM that was working but typical of banks they slugged me about $6 for the privilege of using their machine.
Back at the Everest I ordered the pepper steak once again and was not disappointed. I washed it down with a bottle of Everest and two red wines. The bill tonight was a measly $17. Back to the hotel I went to settle up my account and prepare for an early morning start. The bill for 2 nights accommodation, 2 large beers, 1 breakfast and laundry came to a staggering $55. You can bet “That I'll be back”.
Friday 12th November – On The Road Again
My 5.45am wake up call has jolted me out of a good night's sleep. My bags are packed and I am ready to leave at 6.45am on the tourist (no stops) bus to Besishahar (760 metres). My guide Netre has organised a taxi that gets us to the bus terminal with time to spare.
Our bus is nothing special and the leg room is non existent. After about one hour we finally escaped the clutches of Kathmandu's urban sprawl. The two young guys who do everything on our mini bus were touting for extra passengers as we drove out of town. So much for being a non stop service. As usual when I catch a bus in Nepal something goes astray. This time it was only minor as the bus blew out a rear tyre. A good excuse to get out and stretch my legs.
After four and a half hours we stopped just short of Mugling for lunch. At around 1.30pm we arrived at Dumre where the guys proceeded to fill the bus. When we left it was pretty squeezy.
About 25km from Besishahar we came to a sudden halt as the bus that was five minutes ahead of us had a head on collision with another bus. Luckily nobody was seriously hurt but traffic was at a standstill. After 90 minutes the police moved the vehicles which could have been done 80 minutes earlier. This delay provided a golden opportunity for the bus as none had been through for a while and we were the first in the queue. The boys packed them in like sardines. Eventually we arrived at our destination a mere 9 ¼ hours after we started.Netre has decided that we will spend the night at the New Tibet Hotel. On inspection it looks like the old Tibet. The room is small and I will gauge how the sharing goes tonight. I'm too tired to argue and have a splitting headache as a result of dehydration and a kinked neck from the bus trip. A couple of Nurofern and plenty of water should fix me up.
Saturday 13th November - Syange (1100 metres)
Surprisingly, I had a good night's sleep despite the noise made by the Nepalese guests who came home after 10.00pm. The meals were just Okay but they filled the void. My plan for today was to catch a bus to Bhulbhule (try saying that with your mouth full) and then catch a jeep to Syange.
The bus departed at 8.00am and for once we were not jammed in. Best plans always go astray as there were no jeeps that had spare room available. I had no choice but to follow in the footsteps that Jemma and I made in 2008.
We set off at 9.00am and were traveling at a nice easy pace that I felt I could keep up. The road follows the Marsyangdi River and you are rewarded with fantastic scenery and waterfalls. Along the way you could see women and men working at harvesting rice. Water Buffalo tethered to a stake walked in endless circles crushing the rice underfoot. The good news at the moment is that my feet are not giving me an real trouble. I have to remember to rest at least every 90 minutes so that my feet can breathe.
I kept hoping for a jeep but nothing came along. On one section I looked down to the river and spotted 8 kayakers who were absolutely flying. At about 1.00 pm it started to rain quite heavily (it is supposed to be the dry season) so we took shelter in a teahouse.
After about an hour we continued on slushing our way through the mud. Finally reached Syange at 3.00pm but we only did about 4.5 hours of walking. My guide had no choice on accommodation as I wanted to stay at the Waterfall Guesthouse where Jemma and I stayed. The room is cheap but the food by Nepalese standards is expensive. One price for tourists and another for the guides which is not a problem considering how much they are paid.
Netre has told me that he is receiving 650RP per day out of the 1100RP that I paid the agency. Everyone has to make a profit. It will be early to bed again and still no alcohol has passed my lips. All I have for a drink is water and black tea and a little soup. The meal tonight is a break from Dal Bat so I hope the vegetable momo is up to scratch.
Sunday 14th November – Tal (1700 metres)
After a good nights sleep Netre and I hit the trail at 7.30am blessed with sunshine. The road has now been extended way past Syange almost to Jagat. The road/trail continued to follow the Marsyangdi River. I have never seen so many waterfalls in such a short stretch. We reached Jagat (one guesthouse even promised a high speed internet connection) after 1.5 hours and pushed on to Chyamche which was where it all went to hell for poor Jem in 2008. After resting and taking a few photographs we pushed on.
This is where the trail really begins to get hard. There are lots of loose stones and rocks and you are continually running into donkey trains who don't give an inch. The trail is mostly ascending but you do get an occasional respite with flat ground. The last uphill section before Tal really takes it out of you but when I spied a huge eagle soaring on the air currents my spirits lifted.
Just doing this reminded me of the courage that Jem displayed when she tackled this section feeling as sick as she did. When Tal came into view it lifted my spirits to know that I had nearly finished walking for the day. Walking time was about 5 hours and my feet were just beginning to get sore. I doubt that I could have gone much further without a big rest.
The guesthouse is called Mona Lisa and I had a room by 1.00pm. It is the typical style with wooden floors and detatched bathrooms. Hot water was promised so I jumped in for my first shower since Kathmandu. I would not say it was cold but I just was able to bear the water. It was also a good opportunity to hand wash my socks and jocks. Hopefully the cold wind that has replaced the sunshine will dry them by morning. There is a safe water station here so I will fill my water bottle and do my bit for the environment by not buying plastic. It is pretty cold so I might even get the long johns out tonight.
Monday 15th November – Chame (2670 metres)
This morning I have taken time out to remember my Mum whose birthday it would have been today. She may be gone but she is not forgotten.Netre and I started walking at 7.45 am with the intention of reaching Dharapani as early as possible. Our path is still following the Marsyangdi River which has a milky blue colour.
There have been plenty of trekkers heading back down and as I'm such a friendly person I always greet them with good morning. The majority of them could barely grunt and if they did it was almost surly. Maybe they have had enough of trekking and want some of the good life again. My guess is that they are French.
The other surprising thing is the high number of trekkers who appear to be older than me. Well we made Dharapani by 10.15 which was ahead of schedule. I lingered for a while and took a few photos to remind Jemma of the place she spent four days trying to recuperate. After completing our trekking formalites at the checkpoint and devouring a boiled egg we continued on to Bagarchhap. From this point we had a good view of the snow caped peak of Manaslu.
We stopped for lunch at Danakyu and I filled up on some fried potato. After a half hour break and my feet well rested it was time to move on. At a restaurant five minutes up the road we encountered a German trio whom we spent the night with in Tal. They had decided to spend the night in Thanchok as they were not confident of reaching Chame. I had similar thoughts and said that I might see them there.
About 15 minutes after leaving them I began the long and arduous ascent to the village of Timang. I have to say that the climb really took it out of me and I'm glad that Jem never had to tackle it when she was sick.
Even though it was cloudy (beautiful sunshine until about 11.30) and cold I was sweating like a pig. The view from the top was terrific as you could look back at the villages hundreds of metres below. From Timang the trail flattened out somewhat which made it easier for walking. We were walking through pine forests and every now and then you would come across a pit where two Nepalese manually worked a two handed saw to cut trunks into usable timber planks.
After reaching Thanchok at 3.00pm I decided to try for Chame as it would make tomorrows trek more bearable. There was another checkpoint at Koto and the police officer on duty reckoned that there was not much accommodation available at Chame due to a large police presence. Netre reckoned he knew a place so we soldiered on. Twenty minutes later we were on the outskirts of Chame and straight into the Nurpu Linga Guesthouse.
I have to say this is the best room so far. It is clean, nicely laid out and has a power point so I can recharge the camera battery. The shower was also a warm trickle but it was sufficient to get the days grime off of me.
By the time I got back to my room I was freezing so I jumped under the blankets fully clothed and contemplated the days walk. I calculated that we must have walked for at least 7.5 hours plus breaks. It was a good test for the feet which just held up today. I think that I might need to take more frequent breaks.
Down for dinner at 5.45 and my extremities were numb from the cold. When I least expect it something good happens. The lady who owns the place came in with a stone slab and a brazier full of hot coals. The first thing I did was warm the pinkies and toes. It felt soooo good when the blood started circulating again. Dinner was good and was same, same. There are two English guys (Sean and Matt) staying here so we stayed up late until 9.00pm just chatting. Nice guys and it was great to have a chin wag in English even if it was only for a short time.
Tuesday 16th November – Upper Pisang (3300 metres)
Would definitely recommend the Nurpu Linga Guesthouse as the hospitality was great and they even have a western style toilet. Today we set off at 8.00am and it to ok about 30 minutes to walk from one end of Chame to the other. It is a big village with a doctor, high school and of course an internet cafe that charges 20RP a minute.
The police were out in force and some were carrying riot equipment. Apparently there is a dispute regarding who was awarded a contract for building a road in the area.
The trail is still following the right bank of the river and it is mostly flat with a small incline. The pine forest needles that line the path dampens the noise of your footsteps. The big plus this morning is that we have sunshine and a clear view of Annapurna 2 (7937m) and Annapurna 4 (7525m).
I think I must have had a slight touch of mountain sickness as I had a slight headache and a dry throat. I popped a Diamox tablet just in case the symptoms got worse. One thing with this tablet is it creates the need to pee so I ended up taking a few breaks.
After crossing the river to the left bank via the swing bridge we had our first and only steep incline. It was no where as bad as yesterday so I put my head down and plugged away at the slope.
The one thing I have noticed is that I am really short of breath when tackling any of the uphill sections. I come good as soon as it flatens out so I suspect that it has to do with the altitude. Not long afterwards we reached Dhikur Pokhari where we broke for lunch. It was great sitting in the sun eating a vegetable noodle soup.
From here it was only a one hour walk to Pisang. The accommodation did not look that great at Lower Pisang so I headed uphill to Upper Pisang. The walk up was straight up for 100 metres but it was certainly worth it. The Annapurna range is so close that you can almost touch the mountains.
We were the first ones to arrive at the Manang Marshyangdi Hotel at about 2.15pm so had the pick of the rooms. The hotel has completely filled up and the last guests to arrive were the English Matt and Sean who have the double bed in the honeymoon suite. Lucky guys!
Wednesday 17th November – Manang (3540 metres)
A very cold night at Upper Pisang but the view was worth it. The food was a bit ordinary and was probably the worst Dal Baht so far. The majority of trekkers are taking the high route for the views but I have settled on the flatter low route to conserve energy and time.
Started trekking around 8.00am but was soon interrupted by a funeral procession at Lower Pisang. It was a Budddist funeral where all the men followed the pall bearers. The women were nearby canting and humming.
The trail to Manang was quite easy with only one small incline. I'm glad that I took the lower path as I am struggling today. I feel like throwing up and my back aches. The views of the mountain ranges are great and I had good vision of Mt Pisang (6091m), and some of Chulu peaks which are also around the 6000m mark.Today was a first as I headed down the hill towards Humde I was able to touch snow for the first time. I continued to struggle and after a few rest breaks we reached Manang just before 1.00pm.
Another first today, this is the highest altitude that I have ever reached without a plane!
Friday, November 12, 2010
Welcome to Trivandrum, Nepal!
Wednesday 3rd November – Happy Anniversary
A magic day for Alice and I as we celebrate our 9th wedding anniversary today. It is hard to believe that she has put up with me for so long. Time does fly when you are in love and enjoying life. After exchanging anniversary cards and a light breakfast we met up with Tony and Julie for some sightseeing.
Our first visit was the Blue Mosque which Sultan Ahmet 1 built (1606-1616) to try and rival or even surpass the nearby Aya Sofya in beauty and grandeur. The mosque's exterior is voluptuous and has six minarets and the courtyard is the biggest of all the Ottoman mosques.
The interior has also been conceived on a grand scale and it is the blue tiles in the tens of thousands that give the building its unofficial name. There are 260 windows and the central prayer space is huge.
As we were leaving a minor miracle occurred. A young Turkish man approached Tony and asked him if anybody else thought that he looked like the musician Sting. After the son bit in Cappadocia and now this, I do not think that Tony will be returning with us to Australia as his head will not be able to fit through the door of the Emirates jumbo.
Next stop was Istanbul's most famous monument the Aya Sofya which in English is the "Church of the Divine Wisdom". Emperor Justinian (527-565) had the Aya Sofya built as part of his effort to restore the greatness of the Roman Empire. It was completed in 537 after five years by 1000 skilled craftsmen and 10000 unskilled workers. It regarded as the greatest church in Christendom until the conquest in 1453.
Mehmet the Conquerer had it converted to a mosque and so it remained until 1935, when Ataturk proclaimed it a museum. When you walk through the largest door you cannot help but look up at the magnificent dome that soars above you.
From the floor there are magnificent mosaic portraits including the Madonna and child. The upstairs gallery is reached via a switch-back ramp at the northern end of the inner narthex. They must have been ahead of their time as the ramp could be classified as wheelchair accessible. The mosaics on this level are the most impressive and include the Deesis Mosaic (Last Judgment) and portraits of Mary and John the Baptist. There was even some graffiti that tickled Alice's fancy as they had been left inscribed in the marble by Vikings who worked as guards in the 9th century.
After our sightseeing Alice packed a bag and whisked me away to another hotel for a romantic getaway to celebrate nine short years. Along the way we stopped off at Julie and Tony's and they surprised us with an expensive bottle of champagne which I will put to good use. Tony also plied Alice with a cup of Viagra tea which will assist our anniversary night as it helps to clear the sinuses and not what you may have been thinking!
The hotel room that Alice booked at the Great Western Obelisk hotel has been upgraded to a junior suite so we have heaps of room and a very romantic setting. We even have a mini bar which is the first we have seen on our travels in Turkey. The rest of the day is censored material but suffice to say Alice looked gorgeous in her black belly dancer's outfit.
Thursday 4th November – Topkapi Palace
Julie and Tony joined us for the buffet breakfast on the terrace of the Obelisk which overlooks the Marmara Sea. Once again the Turks have mistaken Tony for somebody else as his waiter asked him if he was a bodyguard. Will it ever stop!
After checking back into our original hotel we headed off to visit the Topkapi Palace and joined the masses who wanted to look at a palace that has been the subject of many colorful stories.
Mehmet the Conquerer started work on the palace shortly after the conquest in 1453 and lived there until his death in 1481. Subsequent sultans lived in this rarefied environment until the 19th century.
Topkapi grew and changed over the centuries but the basic four courtyard plan remained the same. This practice allowed the Ottomans to seclude the monarch from the people. The first court was open to all; the second only to people on imperial business; the third only to the imperial family, VIP's, and palace staff; while the fourth was the family quarters.
The second court has a beautiful park like setting with a series of pavillions. This area is also the entrance to perhaps the most famous sight, “THE HAREM”. This was a place where the sultan could engage in debauchery at will. Legend has it that Murat 111 did and managed to have 112 children. It is an extra admission to enter the Harem and highlights include the narrow courtyard of the Black Eunuchs, Sultan Ahmet's Kiosk, the courtyard of the Concubines and the Sultan's Consorts, the Bath House and the Crown Princes apartments.
You enter the Third Court through the Gate of Felicity also known as the Gate of the White Eunuchs. There are many chambers to visit but the most impressive is the Treasury. There was plenty of competition for this room so we dutifully lined up with the hordes. Some of the objects contained here include the sword of Suleyman the Magnificent, Throne of Ahmet 1, Topkapi Dagger and the Spoonmaker's Diamond. This 86 carat diamond has a history of it's own and was originally found in a rubbish dump and purchased by a street pedlar for three spoons.
The Fourth Court has a number of kiosks, swimming pool and all have great views of the Bosphorus and the Marmara Sea. The one place that intrigued us all was the Circumcision Room. The outer walls of the chamber are graced by beautiful tile panels which may have relaxed the young Muslim boys prior to the ritual that admits them to manhood. If only life was so simple today!
After our visit we were wandering up the main drag and spotted a restaurant that was serving food buffet style. Sitting in the hotbox to tempt our taste buds was a big dish of mashed potato. Needless to say we elbowed a few customers out of the way to satisfy our Aussie needs.
Tony and I then ventured off on a Lonely Planet walk that started at the Milion near the Basilica Cistern and finished at the Suleymaniye Camii. The walk took us past a few tombs, mosques, libraries and the grandiose entrance of Istanbul university. It was an interesting walk and a bargain for us as we did not spend anything. The girls headed back to the bazaar for some last minute purchases but were quite restrained as they returned with only a few purchases.
A couple of beers, a light meal and a few songs from Tony was a good end to a busy day.
Friday 5th November – Istanbul Final Day
Our bags needed rearranging so it was around 10.30am before we left the hotel for some more sightseeing. We followed the tram tracks down towards the Golden Horn but needed to take a bladder break at the Golden Arches.
Our goal was the Spice Bazaar which was constructed in the 1600's. There are colorful pyramids of spices and ornate displays of Turkish Delight which maybe where the term eye candy originated. I ended up buying a kilogram of Turkish Delight for 5TL which was substantially less than what the girls paid on our first day in town over near the grand bazaar. On the outskirts of the market there were clothes retailers who unlike The Grand did not hassle you to buy,buy,buy. The prices were excellent as well.
For lunch we walked over the Galata Bridge, past all the fishermen and down to the banks of the Golden Horn. It was a relaxing venue which we shared with Johnathan Livingstone Steroid Seagull. The prawns and fish were sumptuous with the beer and wine flowing freely. A spritely gentleman of 102 had his photograph taken by the girls. The tram ride back to Sultanahmet was packed to the rafters. Alice and I were pressed together so close that it appeared we were engaging in lewd behaviour. Tony managed to clear a path so that we could exit.
Our lift to the airport was early so we had no trouble checking in on time. We boarded our plane on time but all we did was sit tethered to our umbilical cord, the air bridge. Time dragged by slowly as we waited and waited for our plane to roll out onto the runway. To make matters worse I had the only video player on the whole plane that was broken.
After two long hours we were airborne for Dubai. Our pilot advised that there had been a minor technical problem which had been rectified and also heavy air traffic departing Istanbul. This was most likely true as there were a lot of Muslim pilgrims at the airport who were making the Haj to Mecca.
Saturday 6th November – In Transit
Touchdown Dubai 2.45am and we leaped out of our seats and raced for the transit lounge in the vain hope that we would catch our connecting flight to Singapore. Alas, as soon as we approached the transit area they directed us to a counter where we lined up with other passengers whose faces bore a forlorn look. The good folk who work this counter must have one of the world's worst jobs. They take the brunt of all those passengers who want to vent their spleens when a flight is missed. Our guy, clearly harassed, organised a flight at 7.45am for us and went to the trouble of seating the four of us together. Another five hours eating free airport food won't be the death of us. Alice and I lost Tony and Julie so we went off to the Marhabra lounge and wiled our time away.
No delays this time as we plunged down the runway en route for Colombo in Sri Lanka. Colombo!
They forgot to mention that there was a stopover on this flight. Oh well, at least we can say that we visited another country even it is only the tarmac of an airport. When we landed the plane literally bounced down the runway which was followed by loud clapping when we had safely stopped. After the Sri Lankan passengers had disembarked the rear door was opened as they cleaned and fueled the plane. We were able to see the palm trees that lined the edge of the airfield and the light tropical storm cooled th plane down. The plane took on a party atmosphere as passengers,including us, walked up and down the aisles quaffing cans of Heineken beer.
On our way again and at last we arrive in Singapore at around 9.15pm a mere eight hours late. It did not take long to clear immigration and retrieve our luggage that had miraculously arrived with us. To add insult to injury as we were walking out through the “Nothing To Declare” zone at customs we were signaled out for a security check of our bags. They were nice and thanked us for our patience. We were going to catch a taxi but the queue was longer than a Brisbane rank on a New Years Eve. Not in the mood to wait for over an hour we paid 50SD for an airport maxi cab that had us at our hotel by 10.30pm. Check in was smooth,the room better than expected and the bed large and comfortable. Sleep came easy and I imagine that there would have been some snoring from our room.
The signature tune of the legendary Long Bar of Raffles Hotel is the world famous Singapore Sling. First prepared in the original Raffles Hotel, the seriously fruity drink was invented by barman Ngiam Tong Boon. The popularity of the drink spread throughout the world and although tourists may have tasted the drink in their own country, they still love to sit and sip the drink in the very place that it was invented.
Colour varies with each concoction, but it is essential that the end result is either pink or red to reflect the original belief that it was a woman's drink. Fruit is also vital to the recipe, echoing the 1920's faux-Polynesian craze.
But one of the key, and often overlooked, ingredients in this drink is Benedictine. While the resultant flavour is not overly predominate, it does add a certain 'je ne sais que' that would be totally missing without this secret ingredient. So for a more 'authentic' experience, use:
30ml (1 fl oz) Gin, 15 ml (0.5 fl oz) Cherry Brandy, 120 ml (4.25 fl oz) Pineapple Juice, 15 ml (0.5 fl oz) Lime Juice, 7.5 ml (0.25 fl oz) Cointreau, 7.5 ml (0.25 fl oz) Dom Benedictine, 10 ml (0.35 fl oz) Grenadine, a dash of Angostura Bitters, and garnish with a slice of Pineapple and Cherry.
Sunday 7th November – Orchard Road and Raffles
Just before midday we eventually awoke from our long slumber. Being brave souls and lovers of public transport we jumped on the MRT and headed for the shopping mecca of Orchard Road. As soon as we left the station complex we were engulfed by a sea of shoppers with the majority being young Singaporeans. Being hungry we sought sanctuary from the masses in the first food hall that we saw.
Later we wandered down the length of Orchard Road marveling at the number of mega shopping outlets and the shopping zeal of all the people. I suspect that even hardened veterans like Julie and Alice would need a few days to adjust and decide where they could find the best bargains. As we neared the end of our walk we came across a changing of the guard ceremony near the town hall. The guards and the marching band were immaculate in their white uniforms and shiny spit polished black boots.
Before dinner we headed off to Raffles Hotel which is steeped in history and the epitome of elegant days gone by. Built in 1887, it was considered the place to stay by upper class British colonials and, even today, no visit to Singapore can be considered complete without stopping by.
Standing on the corner of Beach and Bras Basah roads in the heart of Old Singapore, it brings in thousands of daily visitors eager to catch a glimpse of a fashionable yesteryear. English writer, Somerset Maugham, once called Raffles Hotel the legendary symbol for "all the fables of the Exotic East". Popularized in the 1920's and onwards by the likes of Noel Coward, Rudyard Kipling, Joseph Conrad and Charlie Chaplin, Raffles guest list reads like a who's who of famous faces. Set in tropical gardens and terracotta-tiled courtyards, the hotel was a British oasis and relaxing in the Long Bar played a quintessential part in this civilized stopover to an unfamiliar, Asian world.
The Long Bar is designed in the style of the old Malaysian plantations of the 1920's, with many drawings of flapper girls and young men in their dinner suits and top hats. You can easily visualise Noel Coward in his smoking jacket, tinkling the ivories of the piano, while he sings songs about mad dogs and Englishmen. Suspended from the ceiling are rows of wicker fans attached to motorized contraptions that turn a pulley and cause the fans to twirl. It's an ingenious early pre-air conditioning method that wafts a cool breeze over you as you sip your drink. In the bar there are bowls of monkey nuts and it is slightly ironic that tradition dictates you drop the shells on the floor when littering is actually an offence in Singapore. Although sparrows fly in from the balcony outside and sit on the floor to eat the shells, wherever you walk there is a fabulous crunching sound, so don't be prudish.
Although many people find that a couple of hours are plenty, and that the prices are high, it wouldn't be the same if you went to Singapore and didn't have a Sing Sling. It's like having a Guinness in Dublin or a Manhattan in Manhattan. Sometimes these things just have to be done even if it did cost 101SD for two slings and two beers. Raffles now holds the record for the most expensive beer that I have ever purchased. It was lucky that Tony and I ate nearly 20SD of monkey nuts.
Julie was keen for some Indian food from little India but as it was raining and taxis scarce Alice and I decided on a steak near our hotel. As is always the case when you have your heart set on something it does not always work out. As we approached the doors they put up the closed sign so we had no choice but to head for the plastic chairs of a local Asian restaurant. It wasn't long before I was sucking back on a big tiger beer and eating some satay and fried rice.
The food was a little bit ordinary but the price was spot on. Tony reported back that they had given up on a taxi and decided to walk to Little India. They found a nice restaurant and had a reasonable curry meal but were a little put out when they noticed a giant rat (not in restaurant). On the way back to the hotel they also saw quite a few homeless people.
Monday 8th November – Singapore Zoo
The weather is still holding up so we decided to jump into a taxi and spend a day at the zoo. This was better and cheaper than booking a tour as we were able to set our own pace and agenda. The first stop was the famous free ranging Orangutans who are so close to being human. There was a new-born who did not venture too far from the protective mum. Next we jumped on a boat and headed to the opposite end of the zoo to view some more exotic animals. My favourite in this area was the colourful Mandrill who sat on a stump scratching himself and snarling at the spectators. He certainly reminded me of a few people that I know! There was a large troop of Chimpanzees who never fail to entertain as well as crocodiles, snakes, komodo dragons, sun bears and proboscis monkeys. If you have never seen a Proboscis Monkey then google it as their beer gut, nose and tail have to be seen to be believed.
After lunch we saw the lions being fed but they were obviously well fed as a crow decided to finish off the leftover meat. As you pass by the White Rhinoceros and the Zebras in their striped pyjamas you are overcome by the stench from the droppings that these animals have peppered the ground with. Other animals include Jemma's favourite the Cheetah, Gnu, Ostrich, Giraffe and the elusive Jaguar. The fragile forest exhibit also housed Ring-Tailed Lemur, Flying Foxes, Butterflies and a range of birds.
To ease our aching feet we jumped on the train foe a couple of circuits before alighting at the Great Rift Valley of Ethiopia exhibit. The main character in this play of animals was the Hamadryas Baboons. There is a troop of nearly 80 baboons, alongside the nubian ibexes, black backed jackals and banded mongooses in this impressive landscaped exhibit. The Pygmy Hippopotamus was also good as the female had just given birth. The new offspring is just one week old and is already learning to hold it's breath and walk underwater. Too round off a very good day we viewed the White Tigers, Malaysian Tapir, African Penguins, Manatee and Gibbons. All in all a day at the zoo brings out the child in you as you marvel at God's handiwork. The Singapore Zoo is world class and definitely deserves a visit.
Back near our hotel Tony and I are having a couple of beers while the girls check out a clothing store they have discovered. I chose a large Baron beer and was surprised when I read the alcohol content was 8.8%. A couple of these and I would be under the table.
Dinner tonight was next door to the hotel on the plastic chairs. Julie and I selected a dish called chili crab which should not have an adverse impact on our stomachs. We made a mess of the table as pieces of crab shell and chili sauce were thrown haphazardly onto the empty plates of Tony and Alice. They were a little more timid and selected a set Indian meal which judging by their plates was tasty.
Tuesday 9th November – Nightmare on “Silk Air” Street
While Tony and I relaxed at the hotel the girls hit the trenches for a last minute bargain at yesterdays shop. They did not disappoint and came back with armfuls of goodies. We checked out just after midday and headed off for the airport. On arrival we discovered that the taxi driver had dropped us at the wrong terminal so we boarded the skytrain to our respective terminals. I gave Alice a kiss goodbye and said I would meet her at the Emirates check in if I could get my bags checked for my flight which was not for another seven hours.
I was feeling pretty good when I approached the counter as they were willing to take my bag. Things turned bad when I was asked if I had a visa. I said I would get one when I arrived in Kathmandu. She replied “Sir, your ticket is for India” too which I replied I don't want to go to India. After some more discussion I worked out that I had booked the flight incorrectly. My mistake was that the Indian city I was booked to travel to had a similar name to Kathmandu's airport. I immediately cancelled the flight and made my way to the Singapore Airlines ticketing office where I took a ticket and waited for my turn. By this time I knew that I would not be catching up with the others for a quiet drink before takeoff. The following section will need updating by Alice.
My turn at the counter soon came around and I was greeted by a very efficient customer service officer. It must have been my lucky day to strike someone who not only knew her job but went out of her way to help the poor misguided fool standing in front of her. She could have left me to my own devices but she rang Silk Air and got them to refund my ticket and reissue a new ticket for Kathmandu. My only problem is that there were no economy seats left for my return flight on 7th December. Now when Alice reads this I know that she will be understanding when she sees I solved the return flight by flying business class at an extra cost of 870SD. Overall my mistake has cost about an extra $400 Australian.
My flight is at 9.00am tomorrow and as I am stuck in Singapore for an extra night I have decided to lash out on some McDonald's before trying to find a hotel room. Surfing the net I tried to find a budget hotel and found a few in the right price bracket. I decided not to book as I was not sure how quick the confirmation would be. Instead I sauntered over to the Hotel Reservations counter who promptly booked a night at the Fragrance Ruby Hotel for 55SD. This was about 10SD cheaper than I could get online.
At the next counter I booked a shuttle bus for 9SD and 30 minutes later I had checked in. The hotel is apparently in the red light district so that would explain the cheap rate. The room is clean, the size is reasonable, there is also a television but the room smells of cigarette smoke even though no smoking rules apply. I have asked for a wake up call as I don't want to miss another flight.
I went for a walk just before dinner and did not see any girls plying their trade. Perhaps I was a little early for ladies of the night. Choosing somewhere to eat was difficult as there are a plethora of restaurants. Ended up having some delicious seafood noodles and a couple of beers before heading back to the hotel. One thing that did strike me was that I was the only white face amongst a sea of Chinese and Indian faces. A little bit of television before a sleep which did not come until way after midnight. I guess that I may have been a little wound up after the days misadventures.
Namaste would have to be one of the world's best greetings. This traditional greeting is not a handshake but a spoken word that is expressed with a slight bow of the head along with clasping ones hands together in perfect form beneath the chin. Nepali people are very respectful to their guests and a guest to a Nepali is a God. This is an old attitude and a tradition in Nepalese society. You just can't help feeling that all the greetings are heartfelt and genuine. I am coming to the end of what has been a great break so I hope you can put with a few more pages of my ramblings.
Wednesday 10th November – Kathmandu
After a really poor night's sleep I was up at six feeling a little bleary and worse for wear and tear. A quick taxi ride to the airport and an even quicker check in allowed me some time to grab some breakfast. Once again I weakened and went for the McDonald's big breakfast with coffee. Whilst there I jumped on the net to find out where I would have ended up in India. Trivandrum is a beach resort area located on the south west bottom of India. Thank goodness I needed a visa as who knows what I would be doing now.
The five hour flight went without any hitches. The last 45 minutes is always the best and today was no exception as we had clear skies and a wonderful panorama of the Himalayan mountain range. I did not have a visa prior to arrival as I thought it would be cheaper than in Australia. For once I was correct and the beauty was that this line moved quicker than the line for people with visas. I was out of the airport in under 30 minutes and was hoping that the Hotel Ganesh Himal would be there to pick me up.
Someone grabbed me who had the hotel sign but he had no vehicle. To cut a long story short the hotel does not know David Gould, I guess they don't check random emails. The good news is they have a standard double room which looks and smells better than last night's room. It is also cheaper than the one I booked and they may not charge me for my no show.
A magic day for Alice and I as we celebrate our 9th wedding anniversary today. It is hard to believe that she has put up with me for so long. Time does fly when you are in love and enjoying life. After exchanging anniversary cards and a light breakfast we met up with Tony and Julie for some sightseeing.
Our first visit was the Blue Mosque which Sultan Ahmet 1 built (1606-1616) to try and rival or even surpass the nearby Aya Sofya in beauty and grandeur. The mosque's exterior is voluptuous and has six minarets and the courtyard is the biggest of all the Ottoman mosques.
The interior has also been conceived on a grand scale and it is the blue tiles in the tens of thousands that give the building its unofficial name. There are 260 windows and the central prayer space is huge.
As we were leaving a minor miracle occurred. A young Turkish man approached Tony and asked him if anybody else thought that he looked like the musician Sting. After the son bit in Cappadocia and now this, I do not think that Tony will be returning with us to Australia as his head will not be able to fit through the door of the Emirates jumbo.
Next stop was Istanbul's most famous monument the Aya Sofya which in English is the "Church of the Divine Wisdom". Emperor Justinian (527-565) had the Aya Sofya built as part of his effort to restore the greatness of the Roman Empire. It was completed in 537 after five years by 1000 skilled craftsmen and 10000 unskilled workers. It regarded as the greatest church in Christendom until the conquest in 1453.
Mehmet the Conquerer had it converted to a mosque and so it remained until 1935, when Ataturk proclaimed it a museum. When you walk through the largest door you cannot help but look up at the magnificent dome that soars above you.
From the floor there are magnificent mosaic portraits including the Madonna and child. The upstairs gallery is reached via a switch-back ramp at the northern end of the inner narthex. They must have been ahead of their time as the ramp could be classified as wheelchair accessible. The mosaics on this level are the most impressive and include the Deesis Mosaic (Last Judgment) and portraits of Mary and John the Baptist. There was even some graffiti that tickled Alice's fancy as they had been left inscribed in the marble by Vikings who worked as guards in the 9th century.
After our sightseeing Alice packed a bag and whisked me away to another hotel for a romantic getaway to celebrate nine short years. Along the way we stopped off at Julie and Tony's and they surprised us with an expensive bottle of champagne which I will put to good use. Tony also plied Alice with a cup of Viagra tea which will assist our anniversary night as it helps to clear the sinuses and not what you may have been thinking!
The hotel room that Alice booked at the Great Western Obelisk hotel has been upgraded to a junior suite so we have heaps of room and a very romantic setting. We even have a mini bar which is the first we have seen on our travels in Turkey. The rest of the day is censored material but suffice to say Alice looked gorgeous in her black belly dancer's outfit.
Thursday 4th November – Topkapi Palace
Julie and Tony joined us for the buffet breakfast on the terrace of the Obelisk which overlooks the Marmara Sea. Once again the Turks have mistaken Tony for somebody else as his waiter asked him if he was a bodyguard. Will it ever stop!
After checking back into our original hotel we headed off to visit the Topkapi Palace and joined the masses who wanted to look at a palace that has been the subject of many colorful stories.
Mehmet the Conquerer started work on the palace shortly after the conquest in 1453 and lived there until his death in 1481. Subsequent sultans lived in this rarefied environment until the 19th century.
Topkapi grew and changed over the centuries but the basic four courtyard plan remained the same. This practice allowed the Ottomans to seclude the monarch from the people. The first court was open to all; the second only to people on imperial business; the third only to the imperial family, VIP's, and palace staff; while the fourth was the family quarters.
The second court has a beautiful park like setting with a series of pavillions. This area is also the entrance to perhaps the most famous sight, “THE HAREM”. This was a place where the sultan could engage in debauchery at will. Legend has it that Murat 111 did and managed to have 112 children. It is an extra admission to enter the Harem and highlights include the narrow courtyard of the Black Eunuchs, Sultan Ahmet's Kiosk, the courtyard of the Concubines and the Sultan's Consorts, the Bath House and the Crown Princes apartments.
You enter the Third Court through the Gate of Felicity also known as the Gate of the White Eunuchs. There are many chambers to visit but the most impressive is the Treasury. There was plenty of competition for this room so we dutifully lined up with the hordes. Some of the objects contained here include the sword of Suleyman the Magnificent, Throne of Ahmet 1, Topkapi Dagger and the Spoonmaker's Diamond. This 86 carat diamond has a history of it's own and was originally found in a rubbish dump and purchased by a street pedlar for three spoons.
The Fourth Court has a number of kiosks, swimming pool and all have great views of the Bosphorus and the Marmara Sea. The one place that intrigued us all was the Circumcision Room. The outer walls of the chamber are graced by beautiful tile panels which may have relaxed the young Muslim boys prior to the ritual that admits them to manhood. If only life was so simple today!
After our visit we were wandering up the main drag and spotted a restaurant that was serving food buffet style. Sitting in the hotbox to tempt our taste buds was a big dish of mashed potato. Needless to say we elbowed a few customers out of the way to satisfy our Aussie needs.
Tony and I then ventured off on a Lonely Planet walk that started at the Milion near the Basilica Cistern and finished at the Suleymaniye Camii. The walk took us past a few tombs, mosques, libraries and the grandiose entrance of Istanbul university. It was an interesting walk and a bargain for us as we did not spend anything. The girls headed back to the bazaar for some last minute purchases but were quite restrained as they returned with only a few purchases.
A couple of beers, a light meal and a few songs from Tony was a good end to a busy day.
Friday 5th November – Istanbul Final Day
Our bags needed rearranging so it was around 10.30am before we left the hotel for some more sightseeing. We followed the tram tracks down towards the Golden Horn but needed to take a bladder break at the Golden Arches.
Our goal was the Spice Bazaar which was constructed in the 1600's. There are colorful pyramids of spices and ornate displays of Turkish Delight which maybe where the term eye candy originated. I ended up buying a kilogram of Turkish Delight for 5TL which was substantially less than what the girls paid on our first day in town over near the grand bazaar. On the outskirts of the market there were clothes retailers who unlike The Grand did not hassle you to buy,buy,buy. The prices were excellent as well.
For lunch we walked over the Galata Bridge, past all the fishermen and down to the banks of the Golden Horn. It was a relaxing venue which we shared with Johnathan Livingstone Steroid Seagull. The prawns and fish were sumptuous with the beer and wine flowing freely. A spritely gentleman of 102 had his photograph taken by the girls. The tram ride back to Sultanahmet was packed to the rafters. Alice and I were pressed together so close that it appeared we were engaging in lewd behaviour. Tony managed to clear a path so that we could exit.
Our lift to the airport was early so we had no trouble checking in on time. We boarded our plane on time but all we did was sit tethered to our umbilical cord, the air bridge. Time dragged by slowly as we waited and waited for our plane to roll out onto the runway. To make matters worse I had the only video player on the whole plane that was broken.
After two long hours we were airborne for Dubai. Our pilot advised that there had been a minor technical problem which had been rectified and also heavy air traffic departing Istanbul. This was most likely true as there were a lot of Muslim pilgrims at the airport who were making the Haj to Mecca.
Saturday 6th November – In Transit
Touchdown Dubai 2.45am and we leaped out of our seats and raced for the transit lounge in the vain hope that we would catch our connecting flight to Singapore. Alas, as soon as we approached the transit area they directed us to a counter where we lined up with other passengers whose faces bore a forlorn look. The good folk who work this counter must have one of the world's worst jobs. They take the brunt of all those passengers who want to vent their spleens when a flight is missed. Our guy, clearly harassed, organised a flight at 7.45am for us and went to the trouble of seating the four of us together. Another five hours eating free airport food won't be the death of us. Alice and I lost Tony and Julie so we went off to the Marhabra lounge and wiled our time away.
No delays this time as we plunged down the runway en route for Colombo in Sri Lanka. Colombo!
They forgot to mention that there was a stopover on this flight. Oh well, at least we can say that we visited another country even it is only the tarmac of an airport. When we landed the plane literally bounced down the runway which was followed by loud clapping when we had safely stopped. After the Sri Lankan passengers had disembarked the rear door was opened as they cleaned and fueled the plane. We were able to see the palm trees that lined the edge of the airfield and the light tropical storm cooled th plane down. The plane took on a party atmosphere as passengers,including us, walked up and down the aisles quaffing cans of Heineken beer.On our way again and at last we arrive in Singapore at around 9.15pm a mere eight hours late. It did not take long to clear immigration and retrieve our luggage that had miraculously arrived with us. To add insult to injury as we were walking out through the “Nothing To Declare” zone at customs we were signaled out for a security check of our bags. They were nice and thanked us for our patience. We were going to catch a taxi but the queue was longer than a Brisbane rank on a New Years Eve. Not in the mood to wait for over an hour we paid 50SD for an airport maxi cab that had us at our hotel by 10.30pm. Check in was smooth,the room better than expected and the bed large and comfortable. Sleep came easy and I imagine that there would have been some snoring from our room.
SINGAPORE SLING
The signature tune of the legendary Long Bar of Raffles Hotel is the world famous Singapore Sling. First prepared in the original Raffles Hotel, the seriously fruity drink was invented by barman Ngiam Tong Boon. The popularity of the drink spread throughout the world and although tourists may have tasted the drink in their own country, they still love to sit and sip the drink in the very place that it was invented.
Colour varies with each concoction, but it is essential that the end result is either pink or red to reflect the original belief that it was a woman's drink. Fruit is also vital to the recipe, echoing the 1920's faux-Polynesian craze.
But one of the key, and often overlooked, ingredients in this drink is Benedictine. While the resultant flavour is not overly predominate, it does add a certain 'je ne sais que' that would be totally missing without this secret ingredient. So for a more 'authentic' experience, use:
30ml (1 fl oz) Gin, 15 ml (0.5 fl oz) Cherry Brandy, 120 ml (4.25 fl oz) Pineapple Juice, 15 ml (0.5 fl oz) Lime Juice, 7.5 ml (0.25 fl oz) Cointreau, 7.5 ml (0.25 fl oz) Dom Benedictine, 10 ml (0.35 fl oz) Grenadine, a dash of Angostura Bitters, and garnish with a slice of Pineapple and Cherry.
Sunday 7th November – Orchard Road and Raffles
Just before midday we eventually awoke from our long slumber. Being brave souls and lovers of public transport we jumped on the MRT and headed for the shopping mecca of Orchard Road. As soon as we left the station complex we were engulfed by a sea of shoppers with the majority being young Singaporeans. Being hungry we sought sanctuary from the masses in the first food hall that we saw.
Later we wandered down the length of Orchard Road marveling at the number of mega shopping outlets and the shopping zeal of all the people. I suspect that even hardened veterans like Julie and Alice would need a few days to adjust and decide where they could find the best bargains. As we neared the end of our walk we came across a changing of the guard ceremony near the town hall. The guards and the marching band were immaculate in their white uniforms and shiny spit polished black boots.
Before dinner we headed off to Raffles Hotel which is steeped in history and the epitome of elegant days gone by. Built in 1887, it was considered the place to stay by upper class British colonials and, even today, no visit to Singapore can be considered complete without stopping by.Standing on the corner of Beach and Bras Basah roads in the heart of Old Singapore, it brings in thousands of daily visitors eager to catch a glimpse of a fashionable yesteryear. English writer, Somerset Maugham, once called Raffles Hotel the legendary symbol for "all the fables of the Exotic East". Popularized in the 1920's and onwards by the likes of Noel Coward, Rudyard Kipling, Joseph Conrad and Charlie Chaplin, Raffles guest list reads like a who's who of famous faces. Set in tropical gardens and terracotta-tiled courtyards, the hotel was a British oasis and relaxing in the Long Bar played a quintessential part in this civilized stopover to an unfamiliar, Asian world.
The Long Bar is designed in the style of the old Malaysian plantations of the 1920's, with many drawings of flapper girls and young men in their dinner suits and top hats. You can easily visualise Noel Coward in his smoking jacket, tinkling the ivories of the piano, while he sings songs about mad dogs and Englishmen. Suspended from the ceiling are rows of wicker fans attached to motorized contraptions that turn a pulley and cause the fans to twirl. It's an ingenious early pre-air conditioning method that wafts a cool breeze over you as you sip your drink. In the bar there are bowls of monkey nuts and it is slightly ironic that tradition dictates you drop the shells on the floor when littering is actually an offence in Singapore. Although sparrows fly in from the balcony outside and sit on the floor to eat the shells, wherever you walk there is a fabulous crunching sound, so don't be prudish.
Although many people find that a couple of hours are plenty, and that the prices are high, it wouldn't be the same if you went to Singapore and didn't have a Sing Sling. It's like having a Guinness in Dublin or a Manhattan in Manhattan. Sometimes these things just have to be done even if it did cost 101SD for two slings and two beers. Raffles now holds the record for the most expensive beer that I have ever purchased. It was lucky that Tony and I ate nearly 20SD of monkey nuts.
Julie was keen for some Indian food from little India but as it was raining and taxis scarce Alice and I decided on a steak near our hotel. As is always the case when you have your heart set on something it does not always work out. As we approached the doors they put up the closed sign so we had no choice but to head for the plastic chairs of a local Asian restaurant. It wasn't long before I was sucking back on a big tiger beer and eating some satay and fried rice.
The food was a little bit ordinary but the price was spot on. Tony reported back that they had given up on a taxi and decided to walk to Little India. They found a nice restaurant and had a reasonable curry meal but were a little put out when they noticed a giant rat (not in restaurant). On the way back to the hotel they also saw quite a few homeless people.
Monday 8th November – Singapore Zoo
The weather is still holding up so we decided to jump into a taxi and spend a day at the zoo. This was better and cheaper than booking a tour as we were able to set our own pace and agenda. The first stop was the famous free ranging Orangutans who are so close to being human. There was a new-born who did not venture too far from the protective mum. Next we jumped on a boat and headed to the opposite end of the zoo to view some more exotic animals. My favourite in this area was the colourful Mandrill who sat on a stump scratching himself and snarling at the spectators. He certainly reminded me of a few people that I know! There was a large troop of Chimpanzees who never fail to entertain as well as crocodiles, snakes, komodo dragons, sun bears and proboscis monkeys. If you have never seen a Proboscis Monkey then google it as their beer gut, nose and tail have to be seen to be believed.
After lunch we saw the lions being fed but they were obviously well fed as a crow decided to finish off the leftover meat. As you pass by the White Rhinoceros and the Zebras in their striped pyjamas you are overcome by the stench from the droppings that these animals have peppered the ground with. Other animals include Jemma's favourite the Cheetah, Gnu, Ostrich, Giraffe and the elusive Jaguar. The fragile forest exhibit also housed Ring-Tailed Lemur, Flying Foxes, Butterflies and a range of birds.
To ease our aching feet we jumped on the train foe a couple of circuits before alighting at the Great Rift Valley of Ethiopia exhibit. The main character in this play of animals was the Hamadryas Baboons. There is a troop of nearly 80 baboons, alongside the nubian ibexes, black backed jackals and banded mongooses in this impressive landscaped exhibit. The Pygmy Hippopotamus was also good as the female had just given birth. The new offspring is just one week old and is already learning to hold it's breath and walk underwater. Too round off a very good day we viewed the White Tigers, Malaysian Tapir, African Penguins, Manatee and Gibbons. All in all a day at the zoo brings out the child in you as you marvel at God's handiwork. The Singapore Zoo is world class and definitely deserves a visit.
Back near our hotel Tony and I are having a couple of beers while the girls check out a clothing store they have discovered. I chose a large Baron beer and was surprised when I read the alcohol content was 8.8%. A couple of these and I would be under the table.
Dinner tonight was next door to the hotel on the plastic chairs. Julie and I selected a dish called chili crab which should not have an adverse impact on our stomachs. We made a mess of the table as pieces of crab shell and chili sauce were thrown haphazardly onto the empty plates of Tony and Alice. They were a little more timid and selected a set Indian meal which judging by their plates was tasty.
Tuesday 9th November – Nightmare on “Silk Air” Street
While Tony and I relaxed at the hotel the girls hit the trenches for a last minute bargain at yesterdays shop. They did not disappoint and came back with armfuls of goodies. We checked out just after midday and headed off for the airport. On arrival we discovered that the taxi driver had dropped us at the wrong terminal so we boarded the skytrain to our respective terminals. I gave Alice a kiss goodbye and said I would meet her at the Emirates check in if I could get my bags checked for my flight which was not for another seven hours.
I was feeling pretty good when I approached the counter as they were willing to take my bag. Things turned bad when I was asked if I had a visa. I said I would get one when I arrived in Kathmandu. She replied “Sir, your ticket is for India” too which I replied I don't want to go to India. After some more discussion I worked out that I had booked the flight incorrectly. My mistake was that the Indian city I was booked to travel to had a similar name to Kathmandu's airport. I immediately cancelled the flight and made my way to the Singapore Airlines ticketing office where I took a ticket and waited for my turn. By this time I knew that I would not be catching up with the others for a quiet drink before takeoff. The following section will need updating by Alice.
My turn at the counter soon came around and I was greeted by a very efficient customer service officer. It must have been my lucky day to strike someone who not only knew her job but went out of her way to help the poor misguided fool standing in front of her. She could have left me to my own devices but she rang Silk Air and got them to refund my ticket and reissue a new ticket for Kathmandu. My only problem is that there were no economy seats left for my return flight on 7th December. Now when Alice reads this I know that she will be understanding when she sees I solved the return flight by flying business class at an extra cost of 870SD. Overall my mistake has cost about an extra $400 Australian.
My flight is at 9.00am tomorrow and as I am stuck in Singapore for an extra night I have decided to lash out on some McDonald's before trying to find a hotel room. Surfing the net I tried to find a budget hotel and found a few in the right price bracket. I decided not to book as I was not sure how quick the confirmation would be. Instead I sauntered over to the Hotel Reservations counter who promptly booked a night at the Fragrance Ruby Hotel for 55SD. This was about 10SD cheaper than I could get online.
At the next counter I booked a shuttle bus for 9SD and 30 minutes later I had checked in. The hotel is apparently in the red light district so that would explain the cheap rate. The room is clean, the size is reasonable, there is also a television but the room smells of cigarette smoke even though no smoking rules apply. I have asked for a wake up call as I don't want to miss another flight.
I went for a walk just before dinner and did not see any girls plying their trade. Perhaps I was a little early for ladies of the night. Choosing somewhere to eat was difficult as there are a plethora of restaurants. Ended up having some delicious seafood noodles and a couple of beers before heading back to the hotel. One thing that did strike me was that I was the only white face amongst a sea of Chinese and Indian faces. A little bit of television before a sleep which did not come until way after midnight. I guess that I may have been a little wound up after the days misadventures.
NAMASTE NEPAL
Namaste would have to be one of the world's best greetings. This traditional greeting is not a handshake but a spoken word that is expressed with a slight bow of the head along with clasping ones hands together in perfect form beneath the chin. Nepali people are very respectful to their guests and a guest to a Nepali is a God. This is an old attitude and a tradition in Nepalese society. You just can't help feeling that all the greetings are heartfelt and genuine. I am coming to the end of what has been a great break so I hope you can put with a few more pages of my ramblings.
Wednesday 10th November – Kathmandu
After a really poor night's sleep I was up at six feeling a little bleary and worse for wear and tear. A quick taxi ride to the airport and an even quicker check in allowed me some time to grab some breakfast. Once again I weakened and went for the McDonald's big breakfast with coffee. Whilst there I jumped on the net to find out where I would have ended up in India. Trivandrum is a beach resort area located on the south west bottom of India. Thank goodness I needed a visa as who knows what I would be doing now.The five hour flight went without any hitches. The last 45 minutes is always the best and today was no exception as we had clear skies and a wonderful panorama of the Himalayan mountain range. I did not have a visa prior to arrival as I thought it would be cheaper than in Australia. For once I was correct and the beauty was that this line moved quicker than the line for people with visas. I was out of the airport in under 30 minutes and was hoping that the Hotel Ganesh Himal would be there to pick me up.
Someone grabbed me who had the hotel sign but he had no vehicle. To cut a long story short the hotel does not know David Gould, I guess they don't check random emails. The good news is they have a standard double room which looks and smells better than last night's room. It is also cheaper than the one I booked and they may not charge me for my no show.
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