Slowly I turned

Day 26, 19th May – Calgary

Well it was a rough night last night as the youngsters staying at the lodge decided that sleep was not an option. The noise even though it wasn’t loud started at 1:30am and continued until after 4:00am. Apart from that our stay at the hostel was enjoyable. With our bags packed we decided that a nice start to the day would be to take a dip in the Banff Hot Springs. The temperature was a balmy 40 degrees centigrade and it soothed way all the aches and pains. Prior to departing Banff we took another scenic drive through the hills and were fortunate to see more elk and a lone wolf. It would have been easy to spend a lot more time in this area as there are plenty of sites and activities to keep one occupied.

With a sigh we headed out onto the Trans Canada Highway for our 125km trip to Calgary. The scenery was still spectacular as we headed towards the foothills of the Rocky Mountains. We had our first sight of beef cattle when the land flattened out into the endless prairie. When we were close to Calgary we passed the site of the 1988 winter Olympics.  I had a rough idea where our hotel was and with uncanny GPS like accuracy we found our next stay the Econo Lodge. Walking around the block I was amazed at the proliferation of hotels in the area. I suspect that the Winter Olympics may have been the catalyst of this development. The proximity of McMahon Football Stadium and a light rail station also helps to fill the rooms. A late lunch at Bostons Pizza and we are already for an afternoon nap. The hotel has a fitness centre so we jumped on the equipment and burnt off a few calories. With that out of the way we went for a late afternoon drive to check out the downtown area. There is a lot of public art on display but I still don’t understand the meaning of it. Most of it appears to be rusting pieces of scrap metal. One interesting observation is that the downtown buildings are all connected by 15 metre high enclosed walkways. It is like a giant meccano set. This means that the Calgarians do not have to go down to street level when there is inclement weather. Our evening meal tonight of chicken and salad was provided by the Safeway chain. It was delicious and a lot cheaper than lunch.

Day 27, 20th May – Up, Up and Away

We had to be up early this morning as we have to return the SUV to the airport and catch our WestJet flight to Hamilton. The journey takes 3 hours and 40 minutes and is our jumping off point for Niagara Falls. Our Econo breakfast on Styrofoam plates with plastic utensils was not an environmental start to the day but it filled our gastronomical void. The drive out to the airport during the morning peak was uneventful and took only 30 minutes including a fuel stop to ensure there was a full tank in our Avis rental. If we were travelling in the opposite direction it would have been a struggle as a minor accident had caused a major traffic jam. We pulled into the departure kerb, unloaded the bags and then dropped off the car. Our extra charge was only $13.21 which was much cheaper than the earlier quote. Meanwhile, Alice dropped off our GySpy guide somewhere in the arrivals area. The guide proved to be invaluable and I would recommend it do anyone travelling in the Rockies. You can download the app for only a few dollars but you need ensure that you bring the correct hardware for playing it through the radio. Our check-in was a breeze and far more efficient than our experience in Seattle. For once I have not left it do the last minute and we have 1 hour and 15 minutes before our flight departs. That leaves plenty of time for a Starbuck’s and updating the diary.

Our flight arrived in Hamilton early and as it a small regional airport there were no delays at the luggage carousel. The only problem with being early is that our pre booked taxi is not due for another 30 minutes. If you are travelling to Niagara Falls from within Canada then Hamilton is a better option than Toronto. It is about 75km closer and as a regional airport the taxes are cheaper. Our Indian taxi driver was a character and gave us plenty of local information as well as the state of affairs in India. Our room at the Knights Inn is very comfortable and at $45 a night with breakfast it is a real bargain.

It was close to 6:00pm so we thought it was worthwhile to head downhill for our first glimpse of the falls. Niagara Falls has always been one of those natural wonders that I have wanted to see. It stems not from romantic ideals but from a classic Three Stooges skit that I seen as a kid. Curly as usual cops a hammering from Moe whenever the words “Niagara Falls” are uttered. For those who love old fashioned slapstick look it up on you tube. My first impression was that the falls are not very high but the horseshoe shape coupled with the volume of water makes it an awesome sight. We bought ourselves an adventure pass for $50 which included two days free travel on the local bus. The first item on our pass was a visit to the 4D theatre to re-live the ancient story of the falls. When we received a poncho at the door I knew that it was not going to be a dry event.

The twenty minute show was entertaining with plenty of water and a wild stationary ride. There was still some light left so it was off to feel the thunder by journeying beneath the falls. Another poncho,  short descent in the elevator and we were in the bowels of the Falls. One of the portal openings was half way down and about a third across. The sound of the water was like thunder as it blasted its way down the rock face to the river below. A short walk and we were back on the edge of the falls and so close that we were being soaked with the mist and spray. It was lucky that Alice had her underwater camera to capture the moment. We all looked like drowned rats with our hair plastered to our heads as if we had overdosed on brilliantine. With hunger gnawing at our insides we tried pot luck at Elements Restaurant as it is right beside the falls. We were fortunate enough to snag a window seat with excellent views. Considering the location the prices for the excellent food and ample beverages was a reasonable $100. With a full stomach and in a state of bohemia we trudged up the hill in the light rain that had started earlier in the evening.

Day 28, 21st May – Niagara Falls

Another day, another poncho as today we are boarding the all new Hornblower Niagara cruise for the short boat trip to the base of the falls. The Maid of the Mist boat tours now leave from the USA side only. The tours do not start until 10:00am so we were able to take a leisurely breakfast as well as a deserved sleep in. The queues were quite long and there appeared to be a few tour buses that were disgorging Chinese tourists. Alice nearly caused an international incident as she chastised a queue jumping Chinese woman who I had restrained by gripping her poncho. She must have been thinking that she was visiting The House of Mary and that she would miss out on salvation. The trip up the river took us past the American Falls which are not as dynamic as the Horseshoe Falls. There were still huge chunks of ice at the base as a result of the very cold winter. The cacophony of noise from the thousands of seagulls that were perched on the boulders added another dimension to this wonderful scene. We were on the top deck and as we came closer to the falls we were deluged with water. This helped to clear the decks and give us plenty of space to act like Inala boys. It was such a great little trip that we were last off the cruise.

Tony and I are sensitive to the needs of our wives so we boarded the red line bus to Lundy Lane. Our destination was the Canada One factory outlets stores. With over 40 brand name stores to hold the girls attention Tony and I took our place on the suffering seat to while away our time. Alice could not find anything but Julie managed to snare a pair of runners and five pairs of pants. Later in the afternoon we took a walk down to the river with the intention of catching the green line bus to the White Water Walk which was the last of our tours. Unfortunately we did not read the timetable and had to be content with catching the last bus out to the terminus and back again. This wasn’t too bad as we had a good driver who gave us time to look at the floral clock and the whirlpool.  We alighted at Clifton Hill and walked up to Ferry Street in search of souvenirs and of course beer for our early evening happy hour. It was like walking through the heart of Surfers Paradise as there were Haunted Houses, Ripleys Believe It Or Not and the House of Wax just to name a few of the attractions all designed to tempt your hard earned cash from you.

This evening we are heading back to Elements restaurant to have dinner with Tony’s sister Juleen and her husband Fel. Alice and I were delayed for about twenty minutes as we could not find our room key. In the end we gave up and borrowed a spare from reception. On arrival at the restaurant we were able to determine that Tony had once again had a blonde moment. He had been in our room and assumed that the key on our table was his and so he pocketed it. There were laughs all round as we settled down to our dinner. It was a convivial evening that went so quick that we were nearly asked to leave. Our thanks to Fel and Juleen for shouting our meals.

Follow that car

Day 22, 15th May – Jasper

This morning Tony and I made the trek up to the Avis Car rental agency. We had pre booked the biggest sedan that they had but in our hearts we knew it would be unable to contain the luggage that Alice and Julie had bought with them. To our relief they had two spare SUV’s available for an additional $20 a day. To assist with the driving Tony volunteered to be the extra driver and that only added another $10 per day. These car companies know how to add on the extras especially when we asked for the GySpy guide at a mere $185 for five days. What the hell, we are on holidays and want to make the best of it. When they printed out our invoice there was a cost of around $295 not counting the GySpy.  I did the sums in my head and thought that is way more than the $150 for the extras that we had asked for. It turned out that the extra cost was for not having to return the vehicle with a full tank of fuel. I told them to cancel that option and that I would return it with a full tank. The new calculation ended up costing us only $13 which was a massive saving. When in doubt it pays to question the makeup of the costs.

With our gleaming near new black Chevrolet Equinox SUV we headed off into the Jasper National Park. Our first stop was at the Maligne Canyon where we undertook a short hike. At the first bridge crossing we were fortunate enough to spot a nest perched precariously to the cliff face. There was a brood of baby black swiftlets happily waiting for their next feed from Mum. Further down the canyon the ice wall from the waterfall had begun to melt which made it look like a white lace curtain. As we passed Medicine Lake we stopped to admire a few mountain goats that were ambling down the road. Medicine Lake is vast but it acts like a huge bathtub by draining into the underground karst system when the weather warms and the ice melts.

Our final stop for this morning was the beautiful Maligne Lake. Maligne when translated from French means evil or wicked so one would wonder what would prompt someone to name such a beautiful location so. It is one of the most photographed locations in the world and is famed  for the colour of its water, surrounding peaks and the three glaciers that are visible from the small island in the middle known as Spirit Island. In summer you can take boat and kayak trips on the lake but alas or good fortune the lake was still covered in a thick layer of ice. It looked as bright as a brilliant cut diamond when the sun cast its mighty rays upon it.

After lunch the girls decided that they wanted to do Jasper. After dropping them downtown Tony and I had the chance to relax for a while. With the afternoon drawing to a close we picked up the girls and headed out to Mt. Edith Cavell. Unfortunately the road was still closed due to the amount of ice in the area so we opted for a trip to Athabasca Falls. The falls themselves are not very high but the volume of water poring through such a small gap into the canyon below makes it sound like thunder. Again there is still plenty of snow on the ground. We walked up the trail for a short distance and came upon a cross commemorating the loss of a young male. There was nothing to indicate how he had died. It was a sad reminder of how fragile life can be.

Back at the hotel and it is time to save a few shekels. Alice has cooked up a tasty pork fillet with roast vegetables and red cabbage for dinner. The gravy was a rich concoction from a packet whipped up by yours truly. Tony supplied a few beers and gave us a few songs on his travelling guitar. Julie made it a memorable evening by volunteering to do the washing up.

Day 23, 16th May – The Icefields Parkway

This morning we were up at a reasonable time for our journey down the 230 km Icefields Parkway. It is hard to describe what a wonderful a fantastic drive this is. From the moment you start there are magnificent mountain ranges on either side of the road that seem to rear up right in front of you. The sun is shining so brightly that it is a wonder that there is any snow left. At the 54km mark we stopped for a short stroll to view Sunwapta Falls. It is a torrent of plunging water and one of many that has been created by hanging valleys in Jasper National Park. Our major stop for the morning is the Icefield Centre at the 103 km mark. This is a stop designed to extract your hard earned money from you. We have opted for the $89.95 Vista Explorer package which includes the Banff Gondola, Glacier Adventure and the Glacier Skywalk.

The Glacier Adventure tour is about 1 hour and 20 minutes and takes you onto the surface of the Athabasca Glacier. Our mode of transportation was a massive vehicle designed for glacial travel. We had about 20 minutes on the glacier which was long enough for Tony and I to engage in a snowball fight. Alice collected some glacial water and I’m sure that after her and Julie drank it that they looked 10 years younger. After leaving this stunning alpine and glacial vista we boarded another one of the Brewster buses for a trip to the skywalk. This tour starts with a cliff-edge walkway that is filled with nature inspired interpretive exhibits. It is in a great position to take advantage of the glacial vistas and the canyon floor. The grand finale to this experience is a glass-floored observation platform that is suspended 918 feet (sounds more impressive than 280 metres) over spectacular glacier-formed valleys and rushing waterfalls. Alice and Julie showed some trepidation in taking that first step but once started they were fine. It is hard to escape that feeling of vertigo when you look down and can only see the abyss. Tony and I were happy to jump around and even enjoyed some pretend planking on the glass. It is an expensive tour but one that should not be missed.

Time was marching on and it was just after 2:00pm so we had to find a place to have some lunch. Our lunch date was interrupted by some huge mountain sheep grazing by the side of the road. They just looked us in the eye and sauntered across the road in search of more edible grasses.  On our map there was an indication of picnic tables 23km down the parkway at Coleman Creek. The entrance was still closed so we parked outside and took our supplies to a table overlooking the creek. Once the food came out we were surrounded by squirrels that were cheeky enough to saunter over to the table in search of small offerings. It was a great spot for lunch but time was marching on.

We had a few more stops at Peyto Lake, Bow Lake, Bow Glacier Falls, Crowfoot Glacier and the wonderfully named Helen Lake. Everything was still like a winter wonderland and the short hikes were closed due to the depth of snow on the ground. It was only another kilometer to the Trans Canada Highway (get out the old Gene Pitney classic) when we noticed a group f cars pulled up on the edge of the tarmac. We pulled over to investigate and were rewarded with the sighting of a big old Grizzly Bear foraging for ants and insects by the side of the road. Alice and Julie snapped a few good pictures from about 15 metres as the bear went about its business as if we did not exist. After about 10 minutes it ambled up the hillside and plonked itself under a big spruce tree where it dug for more goodies. That was a real highlight and sustained us for our 80km drive down the highway to Golden.

Our room at the Ramada for $90 is exceptional. I have to wonder if North Americans actually sleep together as the room is furnished with two queen size beds. The liquor store is on the other side of the highway so we drove across to avoid the 20 minute walk. The ABC restaurant was attached to the Prestige Hotel and was recommended by the staff of the liquor store. We were pleasantly surprised by the prices and menu selection. I thought I was in heaven when I spotted the senior’s discount, a pot roast that included desert for $12.95. It was just like being at Easts Rugby League Club.

Day 24, 17th May – Lake Louise and Banff

It was a slow start to the day as we only have about 160km to travel. Our first stop was at the little town of Field which is the gateway to the Yoho National Park. Field is more like a village with some beautiful small homes and a selection of B and B’s. We took a detour up to Emerald Lake which was frozen over. The backdrop of mountains known as The President and Carnarvon add to the splendor of the scene. There is great but I suspect expensive accommodation available here. On the same road there is a good stop to view the Natural Bridge that has the Kicking Horse River plunging through it. This is a magnificent area with plenty of hiking trails and well worth a visit.

Our next stop was the picturesque Lake Louise. We could not believe how many people were here visiting. The car park was full despite the fact that the lake was still frozen. When we reached the shoreline you could understand why it is such an attraction. Words cannot do it justice so I will have to attach one of our many photographs. Julie and Alice posed for pictures outside the imposing Fairmont Chateau while I contented myself with bombarding Tony with snowballs. Time was getting away again so we stopped for lunch at a picnic area that was still mostly covered with snow.

Back in Lake Louise Township Alice found a Canadian Post Office open on a Saturday. We purchased a box and filled it with clothes that we no longer needed as well as a few coffee mugs. The shipping of our 5.2kg package which included $300 of insurance cost us a mere $100. This may represent false value as Alice now has room in her suitcase for more purchases. Back on the road we enjoyed a leisurely drive through the national park to Banff. Along the way we followed the railway line and managed to see some Elk as well as an Osprey.

When we arrived in Banff I could not believe the traffic. It was like being at Noosa Heads at Christmas time. The traffic jams made it difficult to find our lodgings at the Banff International Hostel located on Banff Avenue. We eventually found it and were pleasantly surprised by the quality and size of our room which is costing $80 a night. The hostel had a barbeque going and for the princely sum of $2 we were able to enjoy a frank on a roll and a piece of corn. No need for an expensive meal tonight. The great weather that we have enjoyed to date finally deserted us. Banff has greeted us with a light drizzle which meant bringing out the poncho and umbrellas. It was still early so the girls decided to take a look at the shops while Tony and I indulged ourselves with a pitcher of beer. The sidewalks were crowded with people all trying to dodge the rain that has continued to fall.

Day 25, 18th May – Banff

A late start again today but there is no hurry as we are only travelling within the local area. The weather is overcast and at the moment the rain is holding off. First port of call this morning was the historic Banff Springs Hotel which is part of the Fairmont chain. It is built from local rock in the style of a castle complemented by huge turrets.

After lunch we headed out of town to a lake that may have been named in our honour, Lake Minniewanka. Along the loop road we were able to see some big horned sheep grazing by the side of the road. The lake itself was still partly frozen but is expected to be clear in the next week or so. After crossing a long causeway we came to Two Jack Lake which was the first lake that was not frozen. The lake had a beautiful emerald colour which makes you think how beautiful the other lakes will be when the ice thaws. It was a quick detour to Johnson Lake where the locals swim in summer and then it was back to the hotel for a well deserved rest. Did I say rest, Alice is washing clothes and Julie has walked down town for some shop seeing.

It overlooks the 27 hole Stanley Thompson designed golf course. Just up the road we joined the throng of tourists waiting to travel to the summit of Sulphur Mountain. The views became increasingly spectacular as we climbed 698m to an elevation of 2281m at the upper terminal. From our gondola we could see keen hikers trudging up the snow covered slope over endless switchbacks. This would be hard enough without having to contend with the snow. After only a few minutes as banks of cloud blew in and obstructed our view of Banff and the valley. Revenge is a dish best served cold and I mean cold as Tony got square by lobbing a snowball down my back. At the summit there is a 1 km boardwalk that leads to Sanson’s Peak. We were nearly to the top when we felt the first of the drizzling rain. That was the signal to turn around and head back to the SUV. Stopping at the Cascade Gardens in the grounds of Canada Parks we were able to take a photograph looking across the Bow River Bridge and up Banff Avenue towards the mountains. Our tour continued past the Bow River Falls and across a small bridge that spanned the Spay River. This road is not always open as it travels via a loop through the golf course and the national park. This was a great drive as we were fortunate enough to spot a few separate herds of Elk. They just love chewing on the lush fairway grass.

“You're really in a pickle mister”

Day 17, 10th May – Sitka

A last hot breakfast onboard the Wilderness Discoverer and then it was time to say goodbye to the crew. The four of us agreed that travelling on a small ship allowed us the opportunity to get up close and personal with the Alaskan wilderness. An extra bonus is that you get the chance to really know your fellow travelers. Our experience with the Un-Cruise group was excellent and was so enjoyable that we have put down a deposit for another cruise in an exotic location yet to be determined.

We have one night booked at the Super 8 motel in downtown Sitka which should give us plenty of time to explore. Wandering around town we quickly ticked off all the major sights such as St. Michaels Russian Orthodox Cathedral which was built in the mid 1800’s. They seem to be very religious here in the land of the midnight sun as most denominations are represented. There was an interesting stain glass window with the Star of David in St. Peters Episcopal Church by the Sea. Our hotel is located on the quaint sounding name of Halibut Point Road.

There was still a need for us to see some Brown Bears from a close distance so we hired a taxi to convey us to the Fortress of the Bear. It is an educational bear and rescue centre and is home to five Alaskan brown bears and three black bears. On arrival we were met by an English guy who is working here with his wife who is an animal behaviourist.  Initially we were disappointed as all five bears were having a sleep. This all changed when some nice bloody salmon heads were thrown into the large enclosure. These big boys immediately came to life and the viewing platform was the place to be. As an added bonus there were at least ten bald eagles who were swooping down on any morsel that the bears did not eat.  The black bears were not available for viewing as the two females had just been neutered. The young male who was due to go on the chopping block next was in a small enclosure out the back. The staff must have liked us as they gave us a private viewing of the little fella. So cute! One interesting fact that we gleaned from our visit is that Barnof Island has one brown bear per square mile. Given that the island is over 1200 square miles that adds up to a lot of bears. They also had a menagerie of turkeys and one huge pig. If anyone is interested the fortress has a website and regularly post pictures of the bears on facebook.

Tony and I had a late afternoon walk and managed to find a supermarket. With some nibbles, a couple of microwave meals and a few beers we were set for the evening. We thought that Sitka was a beautiful small town and with its access to mountain trails and the sea had plenty to keep you entertained for a few days.

Day 18, 11th May – Up, Up and Away

This morning there is no need to rush as our flight is not until 11:30am. Our taxi for the five minute trip is booked for 9:45am which should give us plenty of time to check-in. Down at the airport we renewed acquaintances with some of our fellow travelers. Our first stop on the flight plan was the bustling northern city of Ketchikan where we waited on the tarmac for a short 30 minutes. The next leg to Seattle was a little more comfortable as the plane was only three quarters full and the four of us had seats to ourselves. The flight itself was uneventful and we now have a four hour layover in Seattle prior to our short 45 minute flight to Vancouver. To kill the time we have holed up in the United Club where we can enjoy a sip of wine and a few beers. Strike one for the Priority lounge Pass!  At around 7:45pm we boarded our flight for Vancouver and before you could sing all the lyrics of American Pie we were having our passports stamped for Canada.  After taking a large taxi to the Days Inn Metro we settled in for the night.

Day 19, 12th May – Vancouver

The rooms that were allocated to us are spacious (two queen size beds) and comfortable. After a slow continental breakfast we took a taxi to the steam clock in Gastown which is on the waterfront of downtown Vancouver. We opted for a two day ($45) hop on hop off bus tour on the big pink bus. Our first stop was the Vancouver Aquatic Centre where we caught a small toy ferry across to Granville Island. The short trip up False Creek gave us great views of the island and the Granville Bridge. Once on the island we spent a good amount of time checking out the markets and some of the boutique shops. Tony and I were a little disappointed that there was insufficient time for a drink at the micro brewery. Our consolation prize was lunch from one of the many food outlets offering organic delights.

After lunch it was back on the bus for a look at all the other areas of downtown (Petula Clarke) Vancouver. We put in some footwork through the Gastown area prior to jumping back on the bus. The section of route we were interested in took us along the waterfront past Sunset Beach and English Bay Beach. We alighted at English Bay and walked around the beach prior to jumping on another bus which would give us a 60 minute tour of Stanley Park.  This part of the tour was exceptional. The driver Larry was a bit of a comedian and knew how to give his customers a good time. The route took us past the Lost Lagoon before stopping at the Totem Poles opposite Coal Harbour. There was a good display of totems with one being dedicated to Chief Wanka. As we travelled along the Stanley Park Seawall the Lions Gate Bridge came into view. The design of the bridge is similar to the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco and was a private bridge for many years owned by the Guiness beer family. Prospect Point is the highest landmark in the park and with a ten minute break we were able to enjoy a great panorama. Our trip around the park concluded when we arrived back at the old fashioned Tea House restaurant. Stanley Park would be high on our list of places to visit in Vancouver.

A short wait and we were back on our open air bus to complete the remainder of the loop. With the different drivers you get some variants on the commentary and as a result you glean some interesting tidbits on the history of the city. The route took us back into the park and followed the trolley bus route to its terminus next to the aquarium. I was surprised to see that it was the route 19 bus which has a stop outside our hotel. You have to love a one seat journey. Our bus detoured over the bridge to Granville Island before heading back into the downtown area via the theatre district and its eclectic mix of inhabitants, the stunning public library, Chinatown and terminating at Gastown.

It was only 6:00pm so we decided to have a couple of beers and wines at the Steamrail micro brewery. The brown ale which was the beer of the day complemented our view of the waterfront. We decided to catch the skytrain which has a station only 15 minutes walking from our hotel. The AVM machine looked simple enough to use so I selected a one zone adult fare and put some coins into the slot. Nothing happened so I added another $2 coin and once again there was no result. I was getting frustrated so I did what all men do and put on my spectacles. It was then that I realized that I had been feeding coins into the credit card slot. Silly me, I could have gotten away without buying a ticket as there were no gates or staff to check tickets. I suspect fraud is high as I did not observe anyone swiping their go cards. By the time we reached our alighting station Tony and I started to feel the effects of the beers. Our pace quickened and the urge heightened the closer we got to the hotel. Things were getting desperate and dropping all pretence we sprinted the last 100 metres to the sanctuary of the little room at the hotel. Ah relief!

A gentleman we had met at the start of the day said there were some good Mexican restaurants in the area. Just turn the corner and walk up the hill and you will find them. There were lots of restaurants but the majority of them were Vietnamese offering bowls of Pho. We struggled on for 15 minutes and were about to give up when we came across two Mexican restaurants. We chose one and I think we were the first Australian customers to enter this establishment. The menu was simple enough but it was daunting when it came to ordering drinks. Julie and Alice ordered a red wine and our smiling waitress brought out a concoction that looked like milk with nutmeg. Tony and I did better and actually ended up with a nice luke warm Corona in a glass. Julie ever the pessimist attempted to order a glass of water. The waitress just looked at her like a stunned mullet as if she was from another planet. Julie tried hand signals, aqua and still had no luck. A lady at another table said to Americanize the pronunciation so Julie said “wardder”. A smile of recognition lit up her face and on returning she triumphantly placed a glass of water on the table. We all laughed at the thought of how difficult it must be to understand an Aussie if English is not your first language. It was an enjoyable meal and a great finish to the day.

Day 20, 13th May – Trip Interrupted

This morning we took our time as we cannot get a late check out without paying for an additional day. The upside is that the hotel has allowed us to store our luggage until 7:00pm at no extra charge. At around 11:00 we set off for some more mild adventure. The first part of the journey we spent down on the waterfront exploring the Canada walk. There was a cruise ship ready to sail and a seaplane taking off which added to the overall scene. We were getting hungry so we jumped on the tour bus and headed back to Granville Island for some more quality tucker. The soup that we chose was so good that Tony took his empty bowl back and purchased another. The owner commented on his obvious care of the environment by recycling his empty bowl. I suggested that he should offer his empty bowl to one of the other patrons but he scoffed at my stupidity. The girls went off to see what was on offer at the various stalls whilst Tony and I walked off our lunch. It was fortuitous when we ambled across the Granville Island micro-brewery as they were offering a beer tasting for $6. After choosing our 3 four ounce beers we settled back and slowly sampled them in convivial harmony. My favourite was the potato stout and Tony enjoyed the amber. The girls tracked us down and as the day was drawing to an end we reluctantly headed off on another leg of exploration. We jumped off the bus at English Bay with the intention of walking along the seawall to Second Beach. That idea went out the door when we spotted a drinking establishment called the “The Three Brits Pub” which had great views of the water. We did not want to miss the last bus so after an hour we headed over to our stop by the old Sylvia Hotel where Errol Flynn used to stay. I should have taken a photograph of it with the Tassie Devil. For insurance purposes we all took advantage of the restroom.

The bus which was the penultimate one for the day duly arrived and took us on our merry way. After about 15 minutes the jostling and bumps started to take their toll on me. The urge to pee started to overwhelm me but as it was the tour bus and it was not near our skytrain line I had no option but to hold on. I was quickly reaching the point of no return and the more I thought about it the more my bladder wanted to burst. Finally, I could take it no longer. I threw my bag at Alice, rushed up to the driver and whispered in his ear “I need to pee”. To my embarrassment he said “What”. Hoping that my reply would not be heard over the microphone that was clamped to his head I whispered “I really need to pee”. This time he heard me and said “You are really in a pickle mister”.  He pulled into the stop at The Best Western and gave me directions to the toilet and at the same time informing me that we would have to catch the next bus. I did not wait for the others as I was ready to blow. It must have been a curious sight as I burst through the doors of the restaurant grasping my nether region looking in vain for the restroom. A waiter pointed me in the right direction and just before the flood gates opened I found sanctuary. I was enveloped with a feeling of bliss as all the toxins were flushed away. With my discomfort gone I apologized to the others for impromptu performance. It really was a journey interrupted.

It was now after 6:00 and if we stuck to our original plan we would be very late back to the hotel. Tony suggested a taxi so we hailed a mini-van which of course was being driven by an Indian. After discerning what our travel needs were he set off on a direct course to our hotel. With our bags loaded he took us to the old Canada Rail station just off Main Street. For once we had arrived early and there was no need to rush. We unpacked the gear that we would need for the next 20 hours and checked in our big pieces of luggage. Our overnight train on Via Rail to Jasper is due to depart at 8:30pm and we have a sleeping apartment in car 221. The berth is reasonably big and we have easy access to a shower and toilet. At a cost of approximately $260 per person it is a much cheaper option than the $2500 Rocky Mountaineer.

The train left the station on time and we adjourned to the observation car where we relaxed with champagne and canapés. It was still daylight so we were able to enjoy the last vistas of the day. Tony managed to purloin some ice from the dining car which he used to chill down the few beers that we had brought with us. With the full moon throwing off sufficient light for us to enjoy the scenery we stayed up until midnight which is late for me these days.

Day 21, 14th May – The Rockies

The bed was very comfortable but due to my excitement I had a broken night’s sleep. From the window there is a good view of the Fraser River and the mountains covered in pine trees. Every so often we have to pull over for the freight trains that stretch like a huge centipede for over a mile. The dining car for breakfast is based on the first in, first served concept. After a steaming hot shower we were ready to sample the port a faire on offer. A delicious hot breakfast with toast, juice, bottomless coffee and a great view was a great start to the day. Tony had another blonde moment this morning when he took the towel belonging to the next compartment to his morning shower. His towel was still in the bag that we were given last night.

The train is still following the river and the terrain is becoming more rugged as it climbs slowly into the Rocky Mountains. Every now and then we catch a glimpse of the macadamized highway on the opposite side of the river. As we approached mile 113 there were great vistas of the snow capped peaks protruding above the tree line. The altitude is climbing and as a result we are seeing a lot more snow shrouding the floor of the pine forest. As we journeyed on my thoughts wandered back to an old Doors song called The End which had the lyrics “ride the snake”. This was due to the winding nature of the track and sitting up in the observation deck it appeared that we were slithering across the landscape. The freight trains keep coming which means we have to slow down and enjoy our surroundings. We almost have the observation deck to ourselves as half the passengers are at the first lunch sitting. At 12:15 there was some excitement as we were nearing one of the more spectacular landmarks, Pyramid Falls. The train crawled slowly past so all the passengers could get a good look at the water tumbling down the granite rock face.

Lunch is beckoning but I need to mention that the weather is still holding up. This is probably the only day which has been overcast but still it is not raining. The scenery just keeps on keeping on and the view from the observation car is best. The water along the six mile shoreline of Moose Lake was still slightly frozen. Mt Robson the highest mountain in the Rockies its peak shrouded in a cover of cloud was in the background. Towards the end of our journey we were fortunate enough to observe a large black bear in the open near the rail line. At approximately 4:30pm we pulled into the scenic town of Jasper.

We are staying for two nights at the Marmot Lodge and after conversing with a local have decided to walk to our hotel. The only problem was that he pointed us in the wrong direction so we had to turn around and head out of town in the opposite direction. After 30 minutes of wearing out shoe leather we reached the hotel. The walk was worth it as our room is huge and has a separate lounge and kitchen.  I think we could have a game of cricket in there.

Just before dinner the rain that had eluded us so far started to fall. It only lasted for 20 minutes and when it was over a huge rainbow lit up the sky. It was a little too late to cook dinner so it was a 15 minute walk into the centre of town for some pizza. On the way back to the hotel there were a few Caribou grazing next to the main road. Apparently, after eating snow covered lichen all winter they cannot resist the fresh shoots of grass that grow abundantly in the City area.

Ship of Fools

Day 8, 1st May -   Jumping Juneau

Juneau has a population of about 34,000 and today a large proportion will be waking from their winter hibernation as the first cruise boat of the season berths today. They will be out and about trying to extract some dollars from any unsuspecting tourist, including us. We did not saunter to the downtown area until a little after 10:00 where we caught a gondolier on the Mt Roberts tramway. At $US32 for a 20 minute round trip it is a little expensive. The view from 1800 feet however is
fantastic and today we have another perfectly clear sky. There was still plenty of snow on the ground and given Alice was in sandals a nature hike was out of the question. I did notice a patch of yellow snow which we gave a wide berth to. The temperate rainforest with tall spruce trees added a brilliant contrast to the white canopy of the snow. There were bald eagles riding on the thermals but they did not get close enough for a picture. Tony managed to have an encounter with a bear which turned a little nasty when Julie pushed him further into its clutches.

We joined many of the cruise ship passengers for lunch on the wharf at Tracy’s King Crab Shack. It is extremely popular and so we had to share a picnic table with the other ravenous patrons. Julie and I went for Tracy’s famous crab bisque which was delicious. The crab cakes and crab roll were also sumptuous.

After lunch Alice and Julie checked out the shops but managed to restrain themselves. I’m glad that they did as there are quite a few jewelry and fur stores. To finish off the day we hit the pavement to check out the main sights of Juneau. The main points of interest were St. Nicholas Orthodox church built in 1894, House of Judge Wickersham, The Governors House built in 1912 and the Federal Building. As we trudged up and down the steep hills the beer calories just fell off us. Alice still had some energy left so she participated in a Pilates class with one other energetic Alaskan. There wasn’t much else for me to do so I cooked us up a nice Chili Con Carne for dinner.

Day 9, 2nd May – On The Road Again

After reviewing our cruise documents we realized that we would need some waterproof boots (wellingtons) for our shore excursions. On an impulse Alice decided to check out the local Salvo sore which is just across the road from our hotel. I was surprised when she came back clutching a good pair of boots that cost her the princely sum of $6. Tony and I ambled across and I was lucky enough to end up with a pair of size 11 boots that Tony had to discard due to his size 12 feet. Alice also picked up a near new Columbia rain jacket for $2.50. We will try a hardware store to see if we can find a pair of wellingtons for Tony.

Today we have hired a car for some out of town exploring and driving on the right side of the road. The roads should not be too busy so it will be good practice for later. Well for around $100 we have ourselves an old Dodge sedan to transport us over the 40 miles of highway/roads of Juneau. The first stop on the agenda was the Mendenhall Glacier. As soon as you pull into the car park there is a great view of the glacier. Always in the need of some exercise we undertook the two and a half mile round trip walk along the Nugget Creek trail. This brought us to the base of a waterfall which was pouring huge amounts of glacial water into the still partly frozen lake. A local informed us that during winter that they can skate for over 8 miles.

Our next port of call was The Shrine of St. Therese which is about 23 miles from downtown. This shrine is part of a beautiful catholic church built of local stones and perched on a small promontory overlooking the passage. They have some beautiful monuments representing the Stations of the Cross. Whilst overlooking the water we were lucky enough to spot a large seal cruising up the channel in search of salmon.

After all this exciting sightseeing we went in search of refreshments. We had a rough idea of our destination and after a few wrong turns and some advice from locals the refreshment stop was found. Unfortunately, for Alice and Julie there was no food available at the Alaskan Brewery. Tony and I warmed to our task and managed to sample five beers before the girls asked us to leave. One of the brewers explained their processes and told us how they reduce their carbon footprint by recycling as much of the waste byproduct as possible. My favourite beer was the smoked porter while Tony lent his support to the Icy Bay IPA. All the beers were greater than 5% so we called on Alice to drive back to the hotel. It was her first experience of driving on the right side of the road and she handled it well.

Dinner tonight was some pan fried Halibut cooked in our room and served with a salad. Of course there were also a few wines and beers. You have to love this self catering experience.

Day 10, 3rd May – Happy Birthday Tony

The car is still ours until 11:00am so Julie, Tony and I went for a drive to Douglas Island. The island is connected to the mainland by the one and only bridge across the Gastineau Channel. The cruise ships that frequent the area cannot travel beyond this point. We took a right across the bridge and travelled approximately 11 miles to the end of the road. Along the way we passed quite a few joggers who were going all the way to the end. It is a beautiful area with walking trails through the temperate rainforest. At one point we came across a carpark that was full of vehicles. People were camping and fishing for salmon off the rocks. There was also a splendid view of the Mendenhall Glacier. The drive through the small town of Douglas was much shorter but just as beautiful.

After returning the car and being dropped at our hotel I realized that I had left my camera in the hire car. Luckily, I had the phone number for the rental agency and was relieved when the phone was picked up by the lady who had dropped us off. She retrieved the camera and made the 20 minute trip back to the hotel. I very sheepishly thanked her and apologized for my stupidity.

At midday we checked out and made our short transition to the prospector Hotel where we checked in for our cruise on the Wilderness Discoverer. With four hours to spare before boarding we had lunch at the Hangar on the waterfront with a younger couple (Rachel and Peter from Virginia) who were also travelling on the cruise. The girls wanted to have a look at the shops so Tony and I sauntered into a hotel that was aptly named the Arctic bar. One look at the barman should have been enough for us to turn around and walk out. He had straggly long hair with a Fu Manchu beard and looked very unkempt. When Tony ordered an Alaskan beer he informed him that we don’t serve that stuff. He ended up selling us a pitcher of beer for $5.50. Meanwhile the clientele were sizing us up and one yelled out that “You know this is a local bar (pregnant pause) but you are welcome”.  We said thanks and then a woman named Eleanor who was barely standing introduced herself. With her middle front tooth missing she reached across and with the grip of a strong man shook our hands. I thought she was going to proposition us for money so we tried our best to ignore her. Meanwhile I thought we were in a Billy Joel song as the guy sitting next to us was staring into his tonic and gin. He said a few sentences and for the life of me I could not understand a single word he said. Tony was wearing a vest with a boxing motif which encouraged more of the locals to make conversation. With our pitcher of beer finished we knew it was time to go when they wanted us to meet the former Alaskan champion who was downing a few ales a couple of bar stools down.

At around 5:00pm we boarded our vessel and set sail just after 6:00. For dinner we had the most tender piece of tenderloin that I have ever eaten. The after dinner introductions were cut short as a solitary humpback whale had been spotted from the bridge. We followed the whale for about 30 minutes and it looked magnificent silhouetted against the red sunset.

It was starting to get a little chilly so we adjourned to our cabin for some shuteye. Alice had just nodded off when there was an announcement over the intercom that we could see the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis and is named after the Roman goddess of dawn, Aurora, and the Greek name for the north wind, Boreas) from the upper deck. We quickly jumped out of bed, threw some warm clothes on and headed out on deck. It was certainly a wonderful sight but the lights were not strong. We went back to bed only to be awoken at 11:00pm by another announcement that there was an even stronger showing of the lights. After looking out the window to verify the announcement we decided to give it one more try. This time the lights were worth the effort of getting out of bed. We stayed out for quite a while and I managed a couple of photographs that I thought were half decent.   

Day 11, 4th May – Glacier Bay

Even after a broken sleep, I managed to get up at 6:00am for a session on the cross trainer. Tony joined me as we sweated away a few calories. Training has never been like this before as we could see otters and dolphins frolicking in the water with snow capped mountain ranges in the background. After breakfast we docked at Bartlett Cove where we disembarked for a forest walk. The walk was through the fern covered section of the rainforest. There was still snow on the ground and a film of ice covered the partly frozen lake. We did not see any bears but one of the independent groups did spot one as it fled into the forest canopy.

After a very healthy lunch we motored up to South Marble Island where we could hear a cacophony of sound. All the grunting was from a colony of male sea lions that inhabited the island. The skipper brought the boat in nice and slow so that we could get a good view of all the wildlife. There were sea otters floating on their backs, puffins, harlequin ducks and many other birds. The puffins with their bright orange feet and distinctive beaks are our favourites. Our next activity was an introduction to kayaking and the handing out of life jackets. Tony who had spent $35 on a pair of wellingtons was disappointed when he found out that there were wellingtons available for those passengers that did not have them. As we were cruising further along the coastline there were sightings of goats, bald eagles and an elusive black bear.

While I was finishing off the diary the other sybaritic heathens were enjoying cocktail hour. I managed to get down to the bar before 5:00pm and was enjoying my first Alaskan oatmeal stout beer when a large brown bear was spotted on the nearby cliff face. It was moving about and even from our distance we could see it with the naked eye which would indicate that it was huge. On the next set of cliffs there were over a dozen large white goats. As we are moving further into the bay there are the occasional small icebergs which means we are getting closer to the glaciers. Tomorrow we have the options of a three hour hike on the glacier, kayak trip or an hour on the skiff (zodiac).  We would all like to do all three so time will tell. Just before dusk the ship motored to within a few hundred metres of Margerie Glacier and the Grand Pacific Glacier. There were plenty of small icebergs as Margerie Glacier was calving on a regular basis. The sound from the toppling ice was like a small cannon as it echoed across Glacier Bay. Another excellent meal, a few wines and a bedtime story about earthquakes and tsunamis from our resident park ranger and it was time for bed.

Day 12, 5th May – Reid Glacier

We had a better night’s sleep as the ship was anchored all night in the lee of Russell Island and in close proximity of Johns Hopkins Glacier. Due to its location and lack of direct sunlight it is one of the few glaciers that are actually advancing. I was up at 6:00 and put in a hour of exercise before heading down to breakfast. Tony opted out on exercise claiming he was a little dusty from the previous night. During breakfast the ship travelled a short distance to Reid Glacier where we will undertake the day’s activities. The four of us chose to go kayaking this morning and I must say we all looked cute in our bright yellow skirts. These go over the top of the seating area and are designed to keep the water out and your butt dry. Mine must have been loose as I was pretty wet when I pulled myself out. Our trip went for nearly three hours and was made the more enjoyable due to no wind or current. We saw another Bald Eagle and caught a glimpse of a harbor seal. The highlight was paddling so close to all the icebergs.

After lunch it was time for a walk to the base of Reid Glacier. On deck I was feeling pretty warm so I decided to swap my large Gortex jacket for a little windbreaker. Safety is always paramount and before leaving on the skiff the lifejackets were donned. As soon as we had left I knew that I had made a big mistake. The catabatic wind that was blowing down on us from the glacier chilled me to the bone and I was wondering how I would last three hours. After landing our group walked along the rocky shoreline straight into a freezing headwind. I started to lag behind as the cold was having an impact on my bladder. My relief was immediate and I was able to catch up to the rest of the group who were staring intently at some bear scat. Not far from the scat there were some huge paw prints that made Tony’s feet look small. By this time I was wishing that my blood was infused with anti-freeze or that I was related to a polar bear. My hands were frozen from the wind chill as my gloves were still drying out after the morning’s excursion on the kayak. Peter from Virginia could see that I was suffering so he offered me the use of his spare jacket that was lying unused at the bottom of his backpack. I did not need to be asked twice and was soon looking like a ninja turtle in his bright green puffer jacket. It was like getting a blood transfusion as I warmed up almost immediately. The group continued up to the glacier but we were thwarted in our attempt to reach it as the melt water formed a fast and deep flowing stream that separated us from the base of the glacier. We headed back towards the shoreline and the group leader radioed the skiff to come and pick us up. It was great to get up so close to the glacier but I was so happy to be returning to the warmth of the ship.

After stowing all the equipment the crew have upped anchor and set a course for Beartrack Cove which is close to the entrance of Glacier Bay. Alice has signed us up for another hike but this time it will be in the rainforest. Another superb dinner and a bedtime story about the history of Glacier Bay from Mary Lou our informative Park Ranger. Her talks are very entertaining and you can feel her passion for this region and all that occurs here.

Day 13, 6th May – Beartrack Cove

Up again this morning at 6:00 for some more exercise and a leisurely breakfast. There is no need to rush as we are booked in for a 9:30 bush bashing hike in the forest. The skiff dropped us at the nearby shore and our guide took us into the temperate rainforest. There were game trails that we tramped over that I doubt that another human foot had touched. The moss underfoot was so thick that it felt we were walking on cushions. Our guide kept taking landmarks so that we could find our way back to the beach. After angling our way up we crested the ridge and headed down through the trees and came across some ponds that still had a covering of ice. There were indications of bear and moose scat but alas no sightings. The trees were tall and closely packed together and it is easy to imagine how you could get completely lost in this environment. After a couple of hours we were back on the beach and ready to go back on board.

Alice and I were nearly asleep when we heard the call for cabin 323 to make their way aft for the afternoon skiff tour. We quickly donned our warm gear, put on our life jackets and made our way onto the skiff. Julie and Tony did not participate in this activity as they wanted to have a sleep, so they say! In our haste we forgot our binoculars but we were still able to see plenty of Bald Eagles. There was a very stationary juvenile high up in a spruce tree and two others sitting in a large nest. An inquisitive otter kept poking its head up to make sure we did not get too close. It reminded me of a water based Meerkat.

It was only mid afternoon when we returned and most of the passengers were still on excursions. Alice and I thought it would be a wonderful opportunity to relax in the hot spa. With our togs on we tip toed out into the fresh and I really mean fresh air. Gingerly we dipped our toes into the water and could not believe how hot the temperature was. Like a submarine ready to dive we quickly lowered ourselves down and literally soaked in a stupendous view and of course enjoyed a relaxing drink. After 30 minutes of bliss we called it quits and headed back to the room to prepare for dinner.

It was another great meal with the choice of steak, seared scallops or a vegetarian meal. The previous day there was a competition to guess what time a large piece of ice would completely melt. Everyone had a go and after dinner they announced that cabin 323, Alice was the winner. She was only three minutes out with her guess and received a bottle of wine as her prize. As you can imagine she was chuffed at her success. We headed off to bed but Tony stayed up for a few guitar lessons from the very talented Peter.

Day 14, 7th May – Idaho Inlet

During the night we anchored in Idaho Inlet just off Chicagof Island where we will spend the day on more activities. This morning when I was exercising a couple of porpoises swam past which helped to break the monotony of the cross trainer. It is a mostly overcast sky and it does not appear that it will rain. Alice and I were a bit slow in signing up so we have opted for some free (unguided) kayaking time. Tony and Julie joined us and we paddled off to a nearby island for some exploring. No bears were sighted but we did see another otter and a few more bald eagles. There was a little wind and some current which gave us the chance for some exercise.

After lunch we upped anchor and headed to Inian Islands so named because they ran out of ”d’s”. The majority of passengers were out on skiff tours so I thought it would be a good opportunity to have the hot tub to myself. A lonesome otter was just off the starboard side and was so close that I could see it feeding on the mussels that it had been diving for. Tony and Julie went off on the third skiff tour while I was still luxuriating in the tub. After an hour I was starting to prune up so it was time to brave the cool Alaskan air and head to the cabin. There was a fourth skiff tour and a spare place was available. Our tour headed out towards the wide expanse of the Pacific Ocean and pulled up at a very small rocky outcrop that was covered in sea birds. There were quite a few sea lions present and one threw the birds into a frenzy when it surfaced with a fish. The gulls were all over it like a vacuum cleaner on a smartie. A bald eagle ever the opportunist swooped down from its lofty position on the cliff to join the fracas. We wound our way back to the ship through the narrow mosquito channel. At one stage we had to stop when the propellors became entangled with kelp that grows here in abundance. I was surprised when our skipper pointed out a house with a satellite dish and a fishing boat moored at a dock. We were the last group to return so it is time for cocktail hour as we motor to a new position.

Day 15, 8th May – Basket Bay

It was another beautiful morning and another great show from the majestic marine animals of Alaska. This morning there were two humpbacks breaching and waving their flukes at us. After breakfast it was straight into a skiff for a short run into Marble Creek to view a marble arch. The tide was running out but we did manage to motor under an impressive arch. The water here was fresh and apparently will be chock full of salmon in a few weeks. Prior to lunch we upped anchor and headed off from Basket Bay to Freshwater Bay. Once again our skipper slowed down so we could get up close and personal with the humpbacks. I have declined this afternoon’s activity which is snorkeling in the frigid Alaskan waters. Even with a 12mm wetsuit it will still be too cold for me.

With full bellies the four of us set off for a guided walk to Pavlov Lake. The walk was supposed to follow some trails but we were soon off the track and plunging into the wilderness. We were clambering over and under fallen trees and had to avoid grasping onto a bush with the seductive name Devil’s Thorn. Alice and Julie did well despite being hampered by their short legs. There were no sightings of animals but we did see plenty of deer scat. I think we were all pleased when the trail next to the creek came into view. The stream had a small series of cascades. To assist the migrating salmon a concrete fish ladder had been constructed. The walk had lasted two hours and the hot at the end could not be resisted.

We were enjoying another sumptuous dinner when all of a sudden there was a big commotion on the starboard side. Through the window and not more than 200 metres away there was a small pod of killer whales. The captain slowed down the boat speed and we were able to follow the Orcas for about 20 minutes. The one aspect that amazed me was the size of the dorsal fin. It was a perfect way to end the day.

Day 16, 9th May – The Polar Plunge

It is still hard to believe that we are in Alaska as this morning it is another perfect day. Here at the Magoo Islands which are about 15 miles north of Sitka the water is like glass and there is not a cloud in the sky. Our first up activity is a skiff ride to do some exploring around one of the many islands in this area. We have seen so many Bald Eagles that the sight of another one flying above us only caused minor excitement. In the waterway there were a couple of seals who paid scant attention to us. Just below the surface and close to sure there were a number of huge blue sea stars. Apparently, they are a relative of The Crown of Thorns sea star. When we arrived back at the boat the weather was still perfect so Tony, Alice and I thought we would give the stand up paddling a go. In no time the three of us were standing up and moving rapidly across the water. It gave us the opportunity to check out some of the marine environment. There were plenty of small translucent jellyfish, red sea stars, small schools of fingerling salmon and of course the ubiquitous kelp. Standing sentinel on every rocky outcrop is moss and lichen laden spruce, red cedar and hemlock tress.

We have not signed up for any afternoon activities and as the wind has picked up it is unlikely that the paddle boards will be available. With half the passengers off doing activities the captain decided it was time for a fire drill. By the time that had finished I had talked myself into having a swim off the end of the boat. After getting permission for my polar plunge I launched myself off the rear of the boat into the frigid water. I must say that the initial splash was not too bad but after a few strokes you could feel the cold getting into your bones. The other surprise was that the water was quite salty which I suppose it should be given our proximity to the Pacific Ocean. After a quick shower it was time to hit the hot tub.

The girls were tucking into their first champagne when the ship’s intercom announced that there would be an opportunity for everyone on board to take a polar plunge. Julie talked tony into taking a plunge and stupid me decided to keep him company. We both opted for an Inala boy entry and swung out on the rope swing before dropping un-tarzan like into the water. A quick hose down from the skipper and we were the first ones into the hot tub for another soak. It was a great way to finish off the activities. Sadly our cruise is coming to an end for tomorrow we disembark at Sitka.

ANOTHER ADVENTURE IN ECONOMY

Unlike the famous Jules Verne novel Around the World in Eighty Days which was published, believe it or not in 1873 this intrepid band of travelers will do it in seventy eight days. That is a one day improvement on Michael Palin’s 1988 effort which was his springboard for some fantastic travel documentaries. Planes, trains, automobiles, big ships and ferries will be the mode of conveyance for this intrepid band of travelers. Joining Phileas Fogg (David) and Princess Aouda (Alice) as they set out from the Reform Club (Kawaku Lodge) will be Jean Passepartout (Tony) and his Princess Julie. At the halfway point in the Greek Islands Inspector Fix (Allan) and Princess Doreen will join the cast to ensure the plot and the journey remain lively and on track.

Day 1 – Thursday 24th April (Brisbane to Los Angelos) – The Longest Day

If it wasn’t for the ability to check in on line I think we would be still sitting in the airport. QANTAS have three flights scheduled to depart within 30 minutes of each other and when we arrived at 8:30am the queue extended beyond the roped off section. The pre-checkin line however was nice and short and within ten minutes we were making our way through immigration. After a somewhat longer time spent clearing immigration we headed off to the Coffee Club to enjoy a two for one flat white.

After boarding our rather new 747 I was nearly able to watch an entire movie prior to take off. It seemed that the engineers had to fix something that keeps the plane flying. Glad we are flying QANTAS and not Malaysian. In the end the flight was uneventful except for some severe turbulence early in the flight. Three movies and numerous snacks later we touched down in L.A. and my first visit to the United States of America. It is amazing that we arrived in L.A. nearly 5 hours earlier than the time we left Brisbane.

The immigration process was straight forward but was a little slow. It took about 45 minutes to process us which was just long enough for us to miss our LAX shuttle at 7:30am to downtown Hollywood. As a result of the first delay we were delayed even further with a 45 minute wait for the prime time shuttle. Another one hour and fifteen minutes in the shuttle van and we reached our destination at the Trylon Hotel. It was a little after 10:00am and check in was not available until 2:30pm. Surprisingly, for a mere pittance of $25 a room could be made available to us. After what we had been through for the last three hours it was well worth the extra money just to get rid of our bags and have a hot shower.

Our goal today was to stay awake until at least 8:00pm so we could sleep through the night and get over our jet lag. To accomplish this we headed off to Universal Studios for some thrills and entertainment. It was a short $16 taxi ride, tip included to the front gate. To overcome my issue of queuing, which I hate with a passion we purchased some front of line tickets.

These were a godsend as I never had to wait in line for any of the shows or rides. The first ride we undertook was the studio tour with the highlight being the King Kong 3D ride. The Waterworld stunt show was spectacular especially when the seaplane crashed into the lagoon with pyrotechnics exploding all around. We managed to have a front row seat for the Blues Brothers show which was great until Elwood stuck a microphone in front of me and had me singing a couple of bars from Shout. Alice was much more professional when she sung out Freedom on the old Aretha Franklin number. Alice was feeling the impacts of no sleep so she declined the action of a few of the rides. My favourite was the Transformers 3D ride which was incredibly realistic. At around 6:00pm we called it a day and hailed a taxi which deposited us in Hollywood Boulevard.

We traversed the walk of fame looking for the names of stars that we were familiar with. Some that I remember were Harrison Ford, Jimi Hendrix, Al Jolson and Bob Hope to name just a few. Dinner was at a Mexican restaurant where we had a front row seat to watch the passing parade of locals and tourists. The sad part was watching the homeless searching through rubbish bins for plastic bottles, cans and if they were lucky a half eaten McDonalds hamburger. We more saddened than threatened as we watched these poor individuals moved on by what was a very strong police presence. One could nearly compare Hollywood with the Fortitude Valley. After our meal we sauntered up to our hotel on Franklin Avenue for a well deserved sleep.

Day 2, Friday 25th April – Sightseeing with Joe

At around 8:30 we eventually awoke from our slumber and rolled out of bed ready for dynamic action. Our good friend Joe Forgiarini is going to be our tour guide for the next three days and has graciously allowed us to bunk at his place in Moreno Valley which is about half way between Los Angelos and Palm Springs. I barely had time to snap a shot of the “HOLLYWOOD” sign as Joe was spot on time for our 9:30am pick up.

The first stop on our agenda was the iconic Hollywood Bowl which was about to host the old heavy metal band Black Sabbath. The major surprise was that the seating is just a basic timber bench with no back rest however you can hire a cushion for an extra dollar. The seats are cut into the surrounding hillside much like a Roman amphitheatre which most likely provides great acoustics. Next on the agenda was a drive along Sunset Boulevard all the way to the Pacific Ocean. The drive took us through Beverly Hills but I could not spot Jed Clampett or any other famous stars. There were plenty of mansions, famous clubs and bars lining the road. The affluent neighbourhoods of Bel Air (no fresh prince), Brentwood and the UCLA campus passed us by as we headed for Izzy’s diner for a well deserved brunch. The food and the bottomless cup of coffee was great and I can understand its popularity with former presidents of the USA.

After brunch we parked on the edge of the Pacific Ocean overlooking Santa Monica pier. The view was great but with the chilly wind blowing there was no one swimming in the choppy water. Just like the movies the expanse of sand between the road and the ocean was well over 100 metres. A highlight was where Santa Monica Boulevard (love the song by Sheryl Crow) meets the sea as it is the end point for the famous Route 66. A great walk along the beachfront and it was back into the car for a drive down Santa Monica and Whiltshire Boulevards. A highlight for Alice was a slow drive up Rodeo Drive where the rich and famous shop till they drop. Fortunately, I had Alice’s credit card safely locked away. (Yeh dream on, David)

Our next stop was at Griffith Park where parking was at a premium. This is the LA version of Mt Coot-tha and the view of the Hollywood sign, surrounding hills and the City was well worth the visit. At the observatory there was a bust of James Dean which was a tribute to the movie “Rebel Without A Cause” that was filmed in this area. With time running out Joe reluctantly headed off down the hill for a look at Union Station. Along the way we passed the Greek Theatre where Neil Diamond recorded his famous live album “Hot August Night”.

After a quick look of downtown LA and with the light fading, along with the occupants of Joe’s Ford Focus, we headed out onto the freeway system to do battle with the Friday rush. There was a lot of stopping and starting as Joe snaked his way from one freeway to another en route to his abode in Moreno Valley which was approximately 100 miles away. After what seemed like a long drive we pulled into his apartment complex where we waited for his son Andrew and Liliana who used to live with us at Kawaku Lodge. After a hearty meal at Sizzlers, they are exactly the same as ours at home we bid Liliana farewell and headed home for a goodnights sleep.

Day 3, 26th April – Operation Desert Storm

“I’ve been through the desert on a horse with no name” which was recorded by the band "America" would be a great song to start today’s adventure.

A slower start to begin the day as we are heading off to the Palm springs area (Coachella Valley) and for a picnic with the Sunline Transit Agency where Joe is employed as the Director of Transit Planning. Along the way we traveled through the Badlands which is a windy mountain pass and into the valley which passes through the towns of Beaumont and Banning. The valley is surrounded by 8000 foot mountains that are snow capped. As we approached the community of a Thousand Palms where Sunline has its headquarters we were engulfed by a sand storm. You could hear the sand hitting the car like a tropical rain storm and it is a wonder that it did not blast the paint off the car.

Sunline had hired the local community hall which was fortuitous otherwise we would have been eating sand burgers. Joe introduced us to his colleagues who made Alice and I feel welcome. Andrew had a great day as he participated in the softball game, sack racing and the more important egg hunt. He did collect a fair bounty and was more than happy to share with Alice and I. For the bus nuts Sunline produce their own CNG and Hydrogen for their five fuel cell buses. They also on sell their fuel to the public. Not bad for a company with a fleet of 69 buses.

After lunch we hit the desert highways to the city of Palm Desert where we travelled up the street of El Paseo which is the desert equivalent of Rodeo Drive. These communities are beautifully laid out and maintained which makes it a haven for retirees. From here we headed to Palm Springs via the cities of Rancho Mirage and Cathedral City. Again this city has a lot going for it with many hotels, restaurants, golf courses and a benevolent acceptance of the gay community. In fact this weekend Palm Springs was hosting the “White Party” which is a festival focused on gay men. In late March the lesbians get the Dinah Shore weekend to party.

After Palm Springs we headed west towards Moreno Valley and stopped at the Cabazon Premium outlet mall. Although Alice thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Sunline I am sure she would have been ecstatic to have spent the day trolling through the numerous outlets that inhabit this site. As it was Joe and I managed to spend a few dollars at the Columbia Sports store outlet where the prices were very competitive. If the discount stores cannot separate you from a few dollars then the casino, which is on Indian reservation land, will. As a footnote Alice did not spend a shekel here.

On arrival at Moreno we went to the Stater Brothers supermarket (IGA equivalent) to pick up a few supplies for dinner. We ended up purchasing a big slab of Atlantic Salmon for about $15 a kilo and some vegetables. The bulk of our expenditure was spent on for bottles of Freixenet Cava (champagne) at $6.99 a bottle and a six pack of Black Butte Porter from Deschutes Brewery in Oregon for $7.99. Alice cooked up a superb meal of marinated Honey Teriyaki Salmon with pan roasted vegetables and green beans which was beautifully plated on Joe’s fine china dinner service. The four of us declared the meal a winner.

Day 4, 27th April – Redemption Day in Carlsbad and San Diego

Alice was disappointed that she did not have ample time at the outlet store in Cabazon to do it justice so she has pleaded with Joe to give her the opportunity to explore the options that the Carlsbad premium outlet stores may have on offer. Joe who is exceedingly kind and helpful has acquiesced to her plea for retail or should I say wholesale therapy. The drive down to Carlsbad was approximately 85 miles.

Like yesterdays drive we are amazed by the rugged beauty of the terrain and the beautiful small towns that blanket the hills and valleys. Joe is a walking encyclopedia and is able to impart a lot of local knowledge that he has gained from living here and working as a transport consultant. We had to be careful not to bore Alice and Andrew with too much bus talk. Prior to hitting the discount stores we drove through the village area which was dotted with small beach cottages. The drive along the esplanade gave us a great view of the beach and the rolling Pacific waves. Unlike LA there were plenty of diehard surfers attempting to master the waves. We then drove through Carlsbad’s version of the Moorooka magic mile of motors before reaching the premium discount stores. The shops were bordered by a pick your own strawberry field and a hill that is aptly named the Flower Fields. It is covered with different flower types and set out in patterns that highlight the different varieties and colours. Enough of this as Alice had some serious shopping to undertake. While the boys were relaxing at the Subway store Alice managed to purchase a pair of shoes from Skechers and a beautiful pair of coral jeans from Ralph Lauren.

With our shopping and eating out of the way, we headed to Andrew’s mothers house in Encinitas. It was good to see Liliana again and just as sad to say goodbye. Back on the freeway again and we motored south to San Diego for some more sightseeing. The airport is located in the downtown area and it was amazing to see all the incoming flights skimming over the tops of the city buildings. It was reminiscent of the old Hong Kong airport. We came into the edge of the city centre at Petco Park which is the home of the Padres baseball team as well as the City’s homeless population.

The downtown area of San Diego has been largely rejuvenated with new upscale apartment buildings that complement the surrounding area. There is also a light rail system that travels through the downtown area and then heads down to the Mexican border a mere ten miles away. Maybe next time we will spend a day in Tiahuana. We did notice a few tattoo parlours which owe their popularity to the nearby naval bases.

On the waterfront you can visit the USS Midway, a retired aircraft carrier that has been converted to a museum or take a ferry across the bay to Coronado Island. We opted to drive across by taking the massive bridge that has a high arch to accommodate the large naval and cruise ships. The guard rails at the top of the bridge were only about 600cm high and I suspect that it is a favourite spot for jumpers. Joe managed to snag a parking space right on the waterfront. This allowed us ample opportunity to watch the sailing boats, ferries and the numerous planes landing at the airport. The real estate on the island is quite valuable as it is all so close to the water. There were many beautiful old bungalows that reminded us of places like Golden Beach. After sipping on a quiet coffee we headed back into the City for a trip up to Balboa Park.

Joe was surprised when we were caught in a traffic snarl at such a late time in the afternoon. It turned out that it was closing time for the world famous San Diego Zoo and some Earth Day festivities at Balboa Park. The traffic was at a standstill and was exacerbated by the inadequate skills of a very large team of traffic controllers on point duty. It could be best explained as organized chaos. Eventually, we made it to the parking lot for Balboa Park. Joe was correct in his assumption that this is a must see attraction.

The Park is home to 15 major museums, performing arts venues, lovely gardens and many other cultural and recreational attractions. Many of the attractions and much of the stunning architecture is the legacy of the 1915-16 Panama –California exposition that marked the opening of the Panama Canal. The El Prado pedestrian walkway features highly ornamented Spanish-Renaissance style buildings which reminded Alice and I of the architecture in Granada and Alicante, Spain.

At 6:30pm we were ready for the 90 minute drive back to the Moreno Valley. Unfortunately, the controllers were still playing and that somewhat delayed our departure. At around 8:00pm and with our bellies rumbling we pulled into the local In and Out Burger shop. Even at this hour on a Sunday night, the cars for the drive through extended out onto the main road. We opted to eat in and I could understand by the simple menu and the price why this diner chain is so popular. I had the double, double which set me back $3.30. Drinks, fries and burgers for the three of us cost under $15. The other reason for their popularity is that everything is cooked fresh, no frozen beef patties here. When we left our table was quickly snapped up by another horde of ravenous diners. The queue for the drive through still extended out onto the road. Unbelievable! It was a nice way to end a great day.

Day 5, 28th April – Moreno Valley to Seattle

Our bags are packed and Joe is ready to take us to the Ontario Airport which is approximately 20 miles away. Joe has been a great host and has driven us 100’s of miles showing us his part of the world as only a local can do. He even gave up his comfortable double bed for Alice and me.  It would be easy to spend a couple of weeks in this region of California as there is so much diversity with the things you can see and do. We said our reluctant goodbyes at the airport and by 9:10am our bags were checked in. It was lucky that I had read the small print on our Alaskan Airlines ticket as our checked luggage attracted a tariff of $25 per bag. The security check in for this domestic flight was more thorough than our international flight. If I had to take much more off I would have been naked. Our flight departed on time and we should be in Seattle at around 1:00pm. No meals on this flight but we did get a free packet of pretzels and a couple of cups of coffee. It is a bright sunny day and the view from the window of snow capped mountains, lakes and the surrounding countryside is awesome.

On arrival at Seattle Alice and I will endeavour to master the public transport by taking the light rail system to the downtown area. We will then try and navigate our way on foot with directions courtesy of Google maps to tour hotel the Kings Inn. A very impressive name which I hope it lives up to for the next two nights. Our travelling partners Julie and Tony arrived yesterday and should be over their jet lag by now. The weather report is for a mild day with a 10 percent chance of rain with improvements over the following days. All looks good for a pleasant stay in Frasier-land.

I was amazed by the orderly manner in which the Americans disembarked the plane. There was no rushing as row by row they gathered their luggage from the overhead compartments and made their way to the exit door. Our luggage was waiting by the time we reached the carousel which was about 15 minutes after landing. It was then only a short walk to the light rail system where we were charged the princely sum of $5.50 for the two of us. There are only about 10 stops and it took about 35 minutes to reach downtown Seattle. Our Google map only made one mistake as when we were walking to our hotel we passed another stop on the light rail system. We could have alighted at this stop and reduced the walk to our hotel.

After unpacking our bags we headed out for a late lunch and a trip down to the Pike Place Farmers market. There was plenty of seafood, flowers, fruit, vegetables and handicrafts for sale at this waterfront location. We even had time to drop into the original Starbucks store but declined a cup of their coffee as the queue was too long. One piece of trivia worth knowing is that the name for Starbucks was derived from the character “Starbuck” who was the first mate in the novel Moby Dick. In Third Avenue we found an IGA store and loaded up with a few supplies. Back at the Kings Inn we tracked Julie and Tony down and settled back on the verandah with cheese, crackers, a few beers and of course champagne. Tony serenaded us with a few songs that he picked out on his travelling guitar. We must have been enjoying ourselves as our neighbour, Dale from Bristol joined in the revelry. At around 10:00pm we called it stumps and headed off to bed for some shuteye.

Day 6, 29th April – Seattle by Land and Sea

It is another beautiful day in Seattle and there is not a cloud in the sky. There are clear views of the snow capped peaks and of course the space needle. We must have hit a rich vein of weather as it apparently rains for more than half of the year. It was perfect weather for walking so we took a long stroll along the waterfront prior to catching a Washington State Ferry across to Bainbridge Island. At a cost of $7.85 for the 70 minute round trip it is a cheap and great way to get a good appreciation of the Seattle waterfront and Puget Sound.

After a late lunch of fried salmon it was time to board our amphibious vehicle for the 90 minute Ride the Ducks Tour. The tour is quite interactive with the Captain playing music, imparting Seattle information of a historical, as well as gossip nature, and donning a variety of hats and wigs to stay in part. He did quite a good job on Bob Marley and Jimi Hendrix. The tour took us over to the suburb of Freemont which is famous for its nude bicycle race. It was here that the Duck entered the freshwater Union Lake. The lake is home to numerous houseboats, floating homes and seaplanes. One of the houseboats was used in the Tom Hanks tear jerker “Sleepless In Seattle”.  We passed by the Space Needle and the EMP Museum which was designed by Frank Gehry. This colourful museum is in the shape of one of Jimi Hendrix’s guitars . Apparently Jimi was a Seattle native. The last part of the tour was along the waterfront, Pioneer Square and Pike Place markets. At a cost of $28 the tour which was a lot of fun is good value.

After our early evening happy hour it was off to Pioneer Square for a night tour of Seattle’s underground. Our tour leader Rick was 75 years old and an old drummer who played with Tom Jones as well as on the old hit record “Bend Me, Shake Me”. I think the band may have been American Breed. Rick was a wealth of knowledge and he weaved the various facts into an entertaining story. Essentially, in the 1860’s the entire City was accidentally burnt to the ground with no loss of life. This gave the City Fathers the opportunity to rebuild above the areas that used to flood. This meant previous ground floors were now below ground. Our tour took us through a few of these old areas and you could see the old brickwork and some of the skylights in the footpaths above you. A great tour for $25 and at the end washed down with a cocktail and a beer. None of us felt like walking so we hailed a taxi and were back at the hotel in no time flat.

Day 7, 30th April – North to Alaska

A good hearty breakfast at McDonalds and then it was off to catch the light rail from Westlake Station to the airport. I thought we had allowed plenty of time but he check in process turned out to be a nightmare. We did the manual check in, paid our $50 for our two bags and then waited in the slow moving line to deposit our bags. It took so long that we missed the 40 minute deadline to deposit our bags. The nice lady informed us that it was highly likely that our bags would not make the flight but would be on the next flight to Juneau. She did give us the option of catching the next flight as well. I declined her gracious offer and remained calm in spite of my inner turmoil. It would have been much faster for them to have checked us in as they had to reissue our baggage receipts again.

In the meantime Julie and Tony had left us in their wake. They had no trouble checking in so they were ushered over to first class and processed well in front of us. With time running out to catch our flight we joined the long queue for our security check. This took another 15 to 20 minutes and we still had to get to our terminal. With about 20 minutes to take off we put on our shoes which we had to take off for security and made our way through the maze of corridors which led to an escalator where we could board our train shuttle to terminal N. When the train pulled into the station, the doors slowly opened and Alice and I charged up the escalator hoping that our gate N1 was not at the far end of the terminal. Luckily, it wasn’t and after we missed the final call we made the flight with one minute to spare. I did hear the staff call ahead to the plane and announce that we were there. As we walked down to the aisle to our seats 27D and 27E Tony reckoned he could see the stress on our faces. The stress wasn’t over as I had to remove a gentleman who had taken up squatters rights on my seat. After all that, the flight was 15 minutes late taking off due to a faulty light bulb on the wing. I certainly learned a lesson on this flight and that was to allow at least 90 minutes for checking in on domestic flights in the U.S.A. The stress is now gone and it will be in the lap of the gods to see if our luggage arrives at the same time as us.

As our aircraft approached Juneau our flight path brought us between snowcapped peaks that reminded me of the flight into Kathmandu. Alice remarked that the mountains looked like giant blobs of chocolate sprinkled with icing sugar. When we alighted from the plane, once again in orderly fashion I was mightily relieved to find our luggage on the carousel. We are staying at the Driftwood Lodge which offers a free pickup from the airport but alas there was no pickup when we arrived. We grabbed a taxi which cost about $25 and I was surprised when the driver suggested we ask the hotel to pay. Much to my surprise the hotel came to the party and coughed up the stipend. That means Tony and I can have a few more Alaskan beers. We are really happy with our rooms as they have a great view of the mountains and have cooking facilities.

After settling in we took off for a walk along the waterfront. It is a little surreal as most of the stores are closed or doing touch ups in order to be ready for the start of the cruise season which starts tomorrow. We ended up having a late lunch at the sawdust covered Red Dog Saloon. The weather is still holding up and the sun is so bright that we needed to lather and cover up. Our last task for the afternoon was to pay a visit to the local IGA which is only 100 metres from the hotel to purchase our dinner and breakfast supplies. Tony and I can almost smell the smoky bacon that will on tomorrow morning's menu. Alice has chosen salmon for our dinner tonight. Well it is almost 10:00 in the evening and the sun has finally gone down which means an eventful day has come to an end.