Ship of Fools

Day 8, 1st May -   Jumping Juneau

Juneau has a population of about 34,000 and today a large proportion will be waking from their winter hibernation as the first cruise boat of the season berths today. They will be out and about trying to extract some dollars from any unsuspecting tourist, including us. We did not saunter to the downtown area until a little after 10:00 where we caught a gondolier on the Mt Roberts tramway. At $US32 for a 20 minute round trip it is a little expensive. The view from 1800 feet however is
fantastic and today we have another perfectly clear sky. There was still plenty of snow on the ground and given Alice was in sandals a nature hike was out of the question. I did notice a patch of yellow snow which we gave a wide berth to. The temperate rainforest with tall spruce trees added a brilliant contrast to the white canopy of the snow. There were bald eagles riding on the thermals but they did not get close enough for a picture. Tony managed to have an encounter with a bear which turned a little nasty when Julie pushed him further into its clutches.

We joined many of the cruise ship passengers for lunch on the wharf at Tracy’s King Crab Shack. It is extremely popular and so we had to share a picnic table with the other ravenous patrons. Julie and I went for Tracy’s famous crab bisque which was delicious. The crab cakes and crab roll were also sumptuous.

After lunch Alice and Julie checked out the shops but managed to restrain themselves. I’m glad that they did as there are quite a few jewelry and fur stores. To finish off the day we hit the pavement to check out the main sights of Juneau. The main points of interest were St. Nicholas Orthodox church built in 1894, House of Judge Wickersham, The Governors House built in 1912 and the Federal Building. As we trudged up and down the steep hills the beer calories just fell off us. Alice still had some energy left so she participated in a Pilates class with one other energetic Alaskan. There wasn’t much else for me to do so I cooked us up a nice Chili Con Carne for dinner.

Day 9, 2nd May – On The Road Again

After reviewing our cruise documents we realized that we would need some waterproof boots (wellingtons) for our shore excursions. On an impulse Alice decided to check out the local Salvo sore which is just across the road from our hotel. I was surprised when she came back clutching a good pair of boots that cost her the princely sum of $6. Tony and I ambled across and I was lucky enough to end up with a pair of size 11 boots that Tony had to discard due to his size 12 feet. Alice also picked up a near new Columbia rain jacket for $2.50. We will try a hardware store to see if we can find a pair of wellingtons for Tony.

Today we have hired a car for some out of town exploring and driving on the right side of the road. The roads should not be too busy so it will be good practice for later. Well for around $100 we have ourselves an old Dodge sedan to transport us over the 40 miles of highway/roads of Juneau. The first stop on the agenda was the Mendenhall Glacier. As soon as you pull into the car park there is a great view of the glacier. Always in the need of some exercise we undertook the two and a half mile round trip walk along the Nugget Creek trail. This brought us to the base of a waterfall which was pouring huge amounts of glacial water into the still partly frozen lake. A local informed us that during winter that they can skate for over 8 miles.

Our next port of call was The Shrine of St. Therese which is about 23 miles from downtown. This shrine is part of a beautiful catholic church built of local stones and perched on a small promontory overlooking the passage. They have some beautiful monuments representing the Stations of the Cross. Whilst overlooking the water we were lucky enough to spot a large seal cruising up the channel in search of salmon.

After all this exciting sightseeing we went in search of refreshments. We had a rough idea of our destination and after a few wrong turns and some advice from locals the refreshment stop was found. Unfortunately, for Alice and Julie there was no food available at the Alaskan Brewery. Tony and I warmed to our task and managed to sample five beers before the girls asked us to leave. One of the brewers explained their processes and told us how they reduce their carbon footprint by recycling as much of the waste byproduct as possible. My favourite beer was the smoked porter while Tony lent his support to the Icy Bay IPA. All the beers were greater than 5% so we called on Alice to drive back to the hotel. It was her first experience of driving on the right side of the road and she handled it well.

Dinner tonight was some pan fried Halibut cooked in our room and served with a salad. Of course there were also a few wines and beers. You have to love this self catering experience.

Day 10, 3rd May – Happy Birthday Tony

The car is still ours until 11:00am so Julie, Tony and I went for a drive to Douglas Island. The island is connected to the mainland by the one and only bridge across the Gastineau Channel. The cruise ships that frequent the area cannot travel beyond this point. We took a right across the bridge and travelled approximately 11 miles to the end of the road. Along the way we passed quite a few joggers who were going all the way to the end. It is a beautiful area with walking trails through the temperate rainforest. At one point we came across a carpark that was full of vehicles. People were camping and fishing for salmon off the rocks. There was also a splendid view of the Mendenhall Glacier. The drive through the small town of Douglas was much shorter but just as beautiful.

After returning the car and being dropped at our hotel I realized that I had left my camera in the hire car. Luckily, I had the phone number for the rental agency and was relieved when the phone was picked up by the lady who had dropped us off. She retrieved the camera and made the 20 minute trip back to the hotel. I very sheepishly thanked her and apologized for my stupidity.

At midday we checked out and made our short transition to the prospector Hotel where we checked in for our cruise on the Wilderness Discoverer. With four hours to spare before boarding we had lunch at the Hangar on the waterfront with a younger couple (Rachel and Peter from Virginia) who were also travelling on the cruise. The girls wanted to have a look at the shops so Tony and I sauntered into a hotel that was aptly named the Arctic bar. One look at the barman should have been enough for us to turn around and walk out. He had straggly long hair with a Fu Manchu beard and looked very unkempt. When Tony ordered an Alaskan beer he informed him that we don’t serve that stuff. He ended up selling us a pitcher of beer for $5.50. Meanwhile the clientele were sizing us up and one yelled out that “You know this is a local bar (pregnant pause) but you are welcome”.  We said thanks and then a woman named Eleanor who was barely standing introduced herself. With her middle front tooth missing she reached across and with the grip of a strong man shook our hands. I thought she was going to proposition us for money so we tried our best to ignore her. Meanwhile I thought we were in a Billy Joel song as the guy sitting next to us was staring into his tonic and gin. He said a few sentences and for the life of me I could not understand a single word he said. Tony was wearing a vest with a boxing motif which encouraged more of the locals to make conversation. With our pitcher of beer finished we knew it was time to go when they wanted us to meet the former Alaskan champion who was downing a few ales a couple of bar stools down.

At around 5:00pm we boarded our vessel and set sail just after 6:00. For dinner we had the most tender piece of tenderloin that I have ever eaten. The after dinner introductions were cut short as a solitary humpback whale had been spotted from the bridge. We followed the whale for about 30 minutes and it looked magnificent silhouetted against the red sunset.

It was starting to get a little chilly so we adjourned to our cabin for some shuteye. Alice had just nodded off when there was an announcement over the intercom that we could see the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis and is named after the Roman goddess of dawn, Aurora, and the Greek name for the north wind, Boreas) from the upper deck. We quickly jumped out of bed, threw some warm clothes on and headed out on deck. It was certainly a wonderful sight but the lights were not strong. We went back to bed only to be awoken at 11:00pm by another announcement that there was an even stronger showing of the lights. After looking out the window to verify the announcement we decided to give it one more try. This time the lights were worth the effort of getting out of bed. We stayed out for quite a while and I managed a couple of photographs that I thought were half decent.   

Day 11, 4th May – Glacier Bay

Even after a broken sleep, I managed to get up at 6:00am for a session on the cross trainer. Tony joined me as we sweated away a few calories. Training has never been like this before as we could see otters and dolphins frolicking in the water with snow capped mountain ranges in the background. After breakfast we docked at Bartlett Cove where we disembarked for a forest walk. The walk was through the fern covered section of the rainforest. There was still snow on the ground and a film of ice covered the partly frozen lake. We did not see any bears but one of the independent groups did spot one as it fled into the forest canopy.

After a very healthy lunch we motored up to South Marble Island where we could hear a cacophony of sound. All the grunting was from a colony of male sea lions that inhabited the island. The skipper brought the boat in nice and slow so that we could get a good view of all the wildlife. There were sea otters floating on their backs, puffins, harlequin ducks and many other birds. The puffins with their bright orange feet and distinctive beaks are our favourites. Our next activity was an introduction to kayaking and the handing out of life jackets. Tony who had spent $35 on a pair of wellingtons was disappointed when he found out that there were wellingtons available for those passengers that did not have them. As we were cruising further along the coastline there were sightings of goats, bald eagles and an elusive black bear.

While I was finishing off the diary the other sybaritic heathens were enjoying cocktail hour. I managed to get down to the bar before 5:00pm and was enjoying my first Alaskan oatmeal stout beer when a large brown bear was spotted on the nearby cliff face. It was moving about and even from our distance we could see it with the naked eye which would indicate that it was huge. On the next set of cliffs there were over a dozen large white goats. As we are moving further into the bay there are the occasional small icebergs which means we are getting closer to the glaciers. Tomorrow we have the options of a three hour hike on the glacier, kayak trip or an hour on the skiff (zodiac).  We would all like to do all three so time will tell. Just before dusk the ship motored to within a few hundred metres of Margerie Glacier and the Grand Pacific Glacier. There were plenty of small icebergs as Margerie Glacier was calving on a regular basis. The sound from the toppling ice was like a small cannon as it echoed across Glacier Bay. Another excellent meal, a few wines and a bedtime story about earthquakes and tsunamis from our resident park ranger and it was time for bed.

Day 12, 5th May – Reid Glacier

We had a better night’s sleep as the ship was anchored all night in the lee of Russell Island and in close proximity of Johns Hopkins Glacier. Due to its location and lack of direct sunlight it is one of the few glaciers that are actually advancing. I was up at 6:00 and put in a hour of exercise before heading down to breakfast. Tony opted out on exercise claiming he was a little dusty from the previous night. During breakfast the ship travelled a short distance to Reid Glacier where we will undertake the day’s activities. The four of us chose to go kayaking this morning and I must say we all looked cute in our bright yellow skirts. These go over the top of the seating area and are designed to keep the water out and your butt dry. Mine must have been loose as I was pretty wet when I pulled myself out. Our trip went for nearly three hours and was made the more enjoyable due to no wind or current. We saw another Bald Eagle and caught a glimpse of a harbor seal. The highlight was paddling so close to all the icebergs.

After lunch it was time for a walk to the base of Reid Glacier. On deck I was feeling pretty warm so I decided to swap my large Gortex jacket for a little windbreaker. Safety is always paramount and before leaving on the skiff the lifejackets were donned. As soon as we had left I knew that I had made a big mistake. The catabatic wind that was blowing down on us from the glacier chilled me to the bone and I was wondering how I would last three hours. After landing our group walked along the rocky shoreline straight into a freezing headwind. I started to lag behind as the cold was having an impact on my bladder. My relief was immediate and I was able to catch up to the rest of the group who were staring intently at some bear scat. Not far from the scat there were some huge paw prints that made Tony’s feet look small. By this time I was wishing that my blood was infused with anti-freeze or that I was related to a polar bear. My hands were frozen from the wind chill as my gloves were still drying out after the morning’s excursion on the kayak. Peter from Virginia could see that I was suffering so he offered me the use of his spare jacket that was lying unused at the bottom of his backpack. I did not need to be asked twice and was soon looking like a ninja turtle in his bright green puffer jacket. It was like getting a blood transfusion as I warmed up almost immediately. The group continued up to the glacier but we were thwarted in our attempt to reach it as the melt water formed a fast and deep flowing stream that separated us from the base of the glacier. We headed back towards the shoreline and the group leader radioed the skiff to come and pick us up. It was great to get up so close to the glacier but I was so happy to be returning to the warmth of the ship.

After stowing all the equipment the crew have upped anchor and set a course for Beartrack Cove which is close to the entrance of Glacier Bay. Alice has signed us up for another hike but this time it will be in the rainforest. Another superb dinner and a bedtime story about the history of Glacier Bay from Mary Lou our informative Park Ranger. Her talks are very entertaining and you can feel her passion for this region and all that occurs here.

Day 13, 6th May – Beartrack Cove

Up again this morning at 6:00 for some more exercise and a leisurely breakfast. There is no need to rush as we are booked in for a 9:30 bush bashing hike in the forest. The skiff dropped us at the nearby shore and our guide took us into the temperate rainforest. There were game trails that we tramped over that I doubt that another human foot had touched. The moss underfoot was so thick that it felt we were walking on cushions. Our guide kept taking landmarks so that we could find our way back to the beach. After angling our way up we crested the ridge and headed down through the trees and came across some ponds that still had a covering of ice. There were indications of bear and moose scat but alas no sightings. The trees were tall and closely packed together and it is easy to imagine how you could get completely lost in this environment. After a couple of hours we were back on the beach and ready to go back on board.

Alice and I were nearly asleep when we heard the call for cabin 323 to make their way aft for the afternoon skiff tour. We quickly donned our warm gear, put on our life jackets and made our way onto the skiff. Julie and Tony did not participate in this activity as they wanted to have a sleep, so they say! In our haste we forgot our binoculars but we were still able to see plenty of Bald Eagles. There was a very stationary juvenile high up in a spruce tree and two others sitting in a large nest. An inquisitive otter kept poking its head up to make sure we did not get too close. It reminded me of a water based Meerkat.

It was only mid afternoon when we returned and most of the passengers were still on excursions. Alice and I thought it would be a wonderful opportunity to relax in the hot spa. With our togs on we tip toed out into the fresh and I really mean fresh air. Gingerly we dipped our toes into the water and could not believe how hot the temperature was. Like a submarine ready to dive we quickly lowered ourselves down and literally soaked in a stupendous view and of course enjoyed a relaxing drink. After 30 minutes of bliss we called it quits and headed back to the room to prepare for dinner.

It was another great meal with the choice of steak, seared scallops or a vegetarian meal. The previous day there was a competition to guess what time a large piece of ice would completely melt. Everyone had a go and after dinner they announced that cabin 323, Alice was the winner. She was only three minutes out with her guess and received a bottle of wine as her prize. As you can imagine she was chuffed at her success. We headed off to bed but Tony stayed up for a few guitar lessons from the very talented Peter.

Day 14, 7th May – Idaho Inlet

During the night we anchored in Idaho Inlet just off Chicagof Island where we will spend the day on more activities. This morning when I was exercising a couple of porpoises swam past which helped to break the monotony of the cross trainer. It is a mostly overcast sky and it does not appear that it will rain. Alice and I were a bit slow in signing up so we have opted for some free (unguided) kayaking time. Tony and Julie joined us and we paddled off to a nearby island for some exploring. No bears were sighted but we did see another otter and a few more bald eagles. There was a little wind and some current which gave us the chance for some exercise.

After lunch we upped anchor and headed to Inian Islands so named because they ran out of ”d’s”. The majority of passengers were out on skiff tours so I thought it would be a good opportunity to have the hot tub to myself. A lonesome otter was just off the starboard side and was so close that I could see it feeding on the mussels that it had been diving for. Tony and Julie went off on the third skiff tour while I was still luxuriating in the tub. After an hour I was starting to prune up so it was time to brave the cool Alaskan air and head to the cabin. There was a fourth skiff tour and a spare place was available. Our tour headed out towards the wide expanse of the Pacific Ocean and pulled up at a very small rocky outcrop that was covered in sea birds. There were quite a few sea lions present and one threw the birds into a frenzy when it surfaced with a fish. The gulls were all over it like a vacuum cleaner on a smartie. A bald eagle ever the opportunist swooped down from its lofty position on the cliff to join the fracas. We wound our way back to the ship through the narrow mosquito channel. At one stage we had to stop when the propellors became entangled with kelp that grows here in abundance. I was surprised when our skipper pointed out a house with a satellite dish and a fishing boat moored at a dock. We were the last group to return so it is time for cocktail hour as we motor to a new position.

Day 15, 8th May – Basket Bay

It was another beautiful morning and another great show from the majestic marine animals of Alaska. This morning there were two humpbacks breaching and waving their flukes at us. After breakfast it was straight into a skiff for a short run into Marble Creek to view a marble arch. The tide was running out but we did manage to motor under an impressive arch. The water here was fresh and apparently will be chock full of salmon in a few weeks. Prior to lunch we upped anchor and headed off from Basket Bay to Freshwater Bay. Once again our skipper slowed down so we could get up close and personal with the humpbacks. I have declined this afternoon’s activity which is snorkeling in the frigid Alaskan waters. Even with a 12mm wetsuit it will still be too cold for me.

With full bellies the four of us set off for a guided walk to Pavlov Lake. The walk was supposed to follow some trails but we were soon off the track and plunging into the wilderness. We were clambering over and under fallen trees and had to avoid grasping onto a bush with the seductive name Devil’s Thorn. Alice and Julie did well despite being hampered by their short legs. There were no sightings of animals but we did see plenty of deer scat. I think we were all pleased when the trail next to the creek came into view. The stream had a small series of cascades. To assist the migrating salmon a concrete fish ladder had been constructed. The walk had lasted two hours and the hot at the end could not be resisted.

We were enjoying another sumptuous dinner when all of a sudden there was a big commotion on the starboard side. Through the window and not more than 200 metres away there was a small pod of killer whales. The captain slowed down the boat speed and we were able to follow the Orcas for about 20 minutes. The one aspect that amazed me was the size of the dorsal fin. It was a perfect way to end the day.

Day 16, 9th May – The Polar Plunge

It is still hard to believe that we are in Alaska as this morning it is another perfect day. Here at the Magoo Islands which are about 15 miles north of Sitka the water is like glass and there is not a cloud in the sky. Our first up activity is a skiff ride to do some exploring around one of the many islands in this area. We have seen so many Bald Eagles that the sight of another one flying above us only caused minor excitement. In the waterway there were a couple of seals who paid scant attention to us. Just below the surface and close to sure there were a number of huge blue sea stars. Apparently, they are a relative of The Crown of Thorns sea star. When we arrived back at the boat the weather was still perfect so Tony, Alice and I thought we would give the stand up paddling a go. In no time the three of us were standing up and moving rapidly across the water. It gave us the opportunity to check out some of the marine environment. There were plenty of small translucent jellyfish, red sea stars, small schools of fingerling salmon and of course the ubiquitous kelp. Standing sentinel on every rocky outcrop is moss and lichen laden spruce, red cedar and hemlock tress.

We have not signed up for any afternoon activities and as the wind has picked up it is unlikely that the paddle boards will be available. With half the passengers off doing activities the captain decided it was time for a fire drill. By the time that had finished I had talked myself into having a swim off the end of the boat. After getting permission for my polar plunge I launched myself off the rear of the boat into the frigid water. I must say that the initial splash was not too bad but after a few strokes you could feel the cold getting into your bones. The other surprise was that the water was quite salty which I suppose it should be given our proximity to the Pacific Ocean. After a quick shower it was time to hit the hot tub.

The girls were tucking into their first champagne when the ship’s intercom announced that there would be an opportunity for everyone on board to take a polar plunge. Julie talked tony into taking a plunge and stupid me decided to keep him company. We both opted for an Inala boy entry and swung out on the rope swing before dropping un-tarzan like into the water. A quick hose down from the skipper and we were the first ones into the hot tub for another soak. It was a great way to finish off the activities. Sadly our cruise is coming to an end for tomorrow we disembark at Sitka.