“You're really in a pickle mister”

Day 17, 10th May – Sitka

A last hot breakfast onboard the Wilderness Discoverer and then it was time to say goodbye to the crew. The four of us agreed that travelling on a small ship allowed us the opportunity to get up close and personal with the Alaskan wilderness. An extra bonus is that you get the chance to really know your fellow travelers. Our experience with the Un-Cruise group was excellent and was so enjoyable that we have put down a deposit for another cruise in an exotic location yet to be determined.

We have one night booked at the Super 8 motel in downtown Sitka which should give us plenty of time to explore. Wandering around town we quickly ticked off all the major sights such as St. Michaels Russian Orthodox Cathedral which was built in the mid 1800’s. They seem to be very religious here in the land of the midnight sun as most denominations are represented. There was an interesting stain glass window with the Star of David in St. Peters Episcopal Church by the Sea. Our hotel is located on the quaint sounding name of Halibut Point Road.

There was still a need for us to see some Brown Bears from a close distance so we hired a taxi to convey us to the Fortress of the Bear. It is an educational bear and rescue centre and is home to five Alaskan brown bears and three black bears. On arrival we were met by an English guy who is working here with his wife who is an animal behaviourist.  Initially we were disappointed as all five bears were having a sleep. This all changed when some nice bloody salmon heads were thrown into the large enclosure. These big boys immediately came to life and the viewing platform was the place to be. As an added bonus there were at least ten bald eagles who were swooping down on any morsel that the bears did not eat.  The black bears were not available for viewing as the two females had just been neutered. The young male who was due to go on the chopping block next was in a small enclosure out the back. The staff must have liked us as they gave us a private viewing of the little fella. So cute! One interesting fact that we gleaned from our visit is that Barnof Island has one brown bear per square mile. Given that the island is over 1200 square miles that adds up to a lot of bears. They also had a menagerie of turkeys and one huge pig. If anyone is interested the fortress has a website and regularly post pictures of the bears on facebook.

Tony and I had a late afternoon walk and managed to find a supermarket. With some nibbles, a couple of microwave meals and a few beers we were set for the evening. We thought that Sitka was a beautiful small town and with its access to mountain trails and the sea had plenty to keep you entertained for a few days.

Day 18, 11th May – Up, Up and Away

This morning there is no need to rush as our flight is not until 11:30am. Our taxi for the five minute trip is booked for 9:45am which should give us plenty of time to check-in. Down at the airport we renewed acquaintances with some of our fellow travelers. Our first stop on the flight plan was the bustling northern city of Ketchikan where we waited on the tarmac for a short 30 minutes. The next leg to Seattle was a little more comfortable as the plane was only three quarters full and the four of us had seats to ourselves. The flight itself was uneventful and we now have a four hour layover in Seattle prior to our short 45 minute flight to Vancouver. To kill the time we have holed up in the United Club where we can enjoy a sip of wine and a few beers. Strike one for the Priority lounge Pass!  At around 7:45pm we boarded our flight for Vancouver and before you could sing all the lyrics of American Pie we were having our passports stamped for Canada.  After taking a large taxi to the Days Inn Metro we settled in for the night.

Day 19, 12th May – Vancouver

The rooms that were allocated to us are spacious (two queen size beds) and comfortable. After a slow continental breakfast we took a taxi to the steam clock in Gastown which is on the waterfront of downtown Vancouver. We opted for a two day ($45) hop on hop off bus tour on the big pink bus. Our first stop was the Vancouver Aquatic Centre where we caught a small toy ferry across to Granville Island. The short trip up False Creek gave us great views of the island and the Granville Bridge. Once on the island we spent a good amount of time checking out the markets and some of the boutique shops. Tony and I were a little disappointed that there was insufficient time for a drink at the micro brewery. Our consolation prize was lunch from one of the many food outlets offering organic delights.

After lunch it was back on the bus for a look at all the other areas of downtown (Petula Clarke) Vancouver. We put in some footwork through the Gastown area prior to jumping back on the bus. The section of route we were interested in took us along the waterfront past Sunset Beach and English Bay Beach. We alighted at English Bay and walked around the beach prior to jumping on another bus which would give us a 60 minute tour of Stanley Park.  This part of the tour was exceptional. The driver Larry was a bit of a comedian and knew how to give his customers a good time. The route took us past the Lost Lagoon before stopping at the Totem Poles opposite Coal Harbour. There was a good display of totems with one being dedicated to Chief Wanka. As we travelled along the Stanley Park Seawall the Lions Gate Bridge came into view. The design of the bridge is similar to the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco and was a private bridge for many years owned by the Guiness beer family. Prospect Point is the highest landmark in the park and with a ten minute break we were able to enjoy a great panorama. Our trip around the park concluded when we arrived back at the old fashioned Tea House restaurant. Stanley Park would be high on our list of places to visit in Vancouver.

A short wait and we were back on our open air bus to complete the remainder of the loop. With the different drivers you get some variants on the commentary and as a result you glean some interesting tidbits on the history of the city. The route took us back into the park and followed the trolley bus route to its terminus next to the aquarium. I was surprised to see that it was the route 19 bus which has a stop outside our hotel. You have to love a one seat journey. Our bus detoured over the bridge to Granville Island before heading back into the downtown area via the theatre district and its eclectic mix of inhabitants, the stunning public library, Chinatown and terminating at Gastown.

It was only 6:00pm so we decided to have a couple of beers and wines at the Steamrail micro brewery. The brown ale which was the beer of the day complemented our view of the waterfront. We decided to catch the skytrain which has a station only 15 minutes walking from our hotel. The AVM machine looked simple enough to use so I selected a one zone adult fare and put some coins into the slot. Nothing happened so I added another $2 coin and once again there was no result. I was getting frustrated so I did what all men do and put on my spectacles. It was then that I realized that I had been feeding coins into the credit card slot. Silly me, I could have gotten away without buying a ticket as there were no gates or staff to check tickets. I suspect fraud is high as I did not observe anyone swiping their go cards. By the time we reached our alighting station Tony and I started to feel the effects of the beers. Our pace quickened and the urge heightened the closer we got to the hotel. Things were getting desperate and dropping all pretence we sprinted the last 100 metres to the sanctuary of the little room at the hotel. Ah relief!

A gentleman we had met at the start of the day said there were some good Mexican restaurants in the area. Just turn the corner and walk up the hill and you will find them. There were lots of restaurants but the majority of them were Vietnamese offering bowls of Pho. We struggled on for 15 minutes and were about to give up when we came across two Mexican restaurants. We chose one and I think we were the first Australian customers to enter this establishment. The menu was simple enough but it was daunting when it came to ordering drinks. Julie and Alice ordered a red wine and our smiling waitress brought out a concoction that looked like milk with nutmeg. Tony and I did better and actually ended up with a nice luke warm Corona in a glass. Julie ever the pessimist attempted to order a glass of water. The waitress just looked at her like a stunned mullet as if she was from another planet. Julie tried hand signals, aqua and still had no luck. A lady at another table said to Americanize the pronunciation so Julie said “wardder”. A smile of recognition lit up her face and on returning she triumphantly placed a glass of water on the table. We all laughed at the thought of how difficult it must be to understand an Aussie if English is not your first language. It was an enjoyable meal and a great finish to the day.

Day 20, 13th May – Trip Interrupted

This morning we took our time as we cannot get a late check out without paying for an additional day. The upside is that the hotel has allowed us to store our luggage until 7:00pm at no extra charge. At around 11:00 we set off for some more mild adventure. The first part of the journey we spent down on the waterfront exploring the Canada walk. There was a cruise ship ready to sail and a seaplane taking off which added to the overall scene. We were getting hungry so we jumped on the tour bus and headed back to Granville Island for some more quality tucker. The soup that we chose was so good that Tony took his empty bowl back and purchased another. The owner commented on his obvious care of the environment by recycling his empty bowl. I suggested that he should offer his empty bowl to one of the other patrons but he scoffed at my stupidity. The girls went off to see what was on offer at the various stalls whilst Tony and I walked off our lunch. It was fortuitous when we ambled across the Granville Island micro-brewery as they were offering a beer tasting for $6. After choosing our 3 four ounce beers we settled back and slowly sampled them in convivial harmony. My favourite was the potato stout and Tony enjoyed the amber. The girls tracked us down and as the day was drawing to an end we reluctantly headed off on another leg of exploration. We jumped off the bus at English Bay with the intention of walking along the seawall to Second Beach. That idea went out the door when we spotted a drinking establishment called the “The Three Brits Pub” which had great views of the water. We did not want to miss the last bus so after an hour we headed over to our stop by the old Sylvia Hotel where Errol Flynn used to stay. I should have taken a photograph of it with the Tassie Devil. For insurance purposes we all took advantage of the restroom.

The bus which was the penultimate one for the day duly arrived and took us on our merry way. After about 15 minutes the jostling and bumps started to take their toll on me. The urge to pee started to overwhelm me but as it was the tour bus and it was not near our skytrain line I had no option but to hold on. I was quickly reaching the point of no return and the more I thought about it the more my bladder wanted to burst. Finally, I could take it no longer. I threw my bag at Alice, rushed up to the driver and whispered in his ear “I need to pee”. To my embarrassment he said “What”. Hoping that my reply would not be heard over the microphone that was clamped to his head I whispered “I really need to pee”. This time he heard me and said “You are really in a pickle mister”.  He pulled into the stop at The Best Western and gave me directions to the toilet and at the same time informing me that we would have to catch the next bus. I did not wait for the others as I was ready to blow. It must have been a curious sight as I burst through the doors of the restaurant grasping my nether region looking in vain for the restroom. A waiter pointed me in the right direction and just before the flood gates opened I found sanctuary. I was enveloped with a feeling of bliss as all the toxins were flushed away. With my discomfort gone I apologized to the others for impromptu performance. It really was a journey interrupted.

It was now after 6:00 and if we stuck to our original plan we would be very late back to the hotel. Tony suggested a taxi so we hailed a mini-van which of course was being driven by an Indian. After discerning what our travel needs were he set off on a direct course to our hotel. With our bags loaded he took us to the old Canada Rail station just off Main Street. For once we had arrived early and there was no need to rush. We unpacked the gear that we would need for the next 20 hours and checked in our big pieces of luggage. Our overnight train on Via Rail to Jasper is due to depart at 8:30pm and we have a sleeping apartment in car 221. The berth is reasonably big and we have easy access to a shower and toilet. At a cost of approximately $260 per person it is a much cheaper option than the $2500 Rocky Mountaineer.

The train left the station on time and we adjourned to the observation car where we relaxed with champagne and canapés. It was still daylight so we were able to enjoy the last vistas of the day. Tony managed to purloin some ice from the dining car which he used to chill down the few beers that we had brought with us. With the full moon throwing off sufficient light for us to enjoy the scenery we stayed up until midnight which is late for me these days.

Day 21, 14th May – The Rockies

The bed was very comfortable but due to my excitement I had a broken night’s sleep. From the window there is a good view of the Fraser River and the mountains covered in pine trees. Every so often we have to pull over for the freight trains that stretch like a huge centipede for over a mile. The dining car for breakfast is based on the first in, first served concept. After a steaming hot shower we were ready to sample the port a faire on offer. A delicious hot breakfast with toast, juice, bottomless coffee and a great view was a great start to the day. Tony had another blonde moment this morning when he took the towel belonging to the next compartment to his morning shower. His towel was still in the bag that we were given last night.

The train is still following the river and the terrain is becoming more rugged as it climbs slowly into the Rocky Mountains. Every now and then we catch a glimpse of the macadamized highway on the opposite side of the river. As we approached mile 113 there were great vistas of the snow capped peaks protruding above the tree line. The altitude is climbing and as a result we are seeing a lot more snow shrouding the floor of the pine forest. As we journeyed on my thoughts wandered back to an old Doors song called The End which had the lyrics “ride the snake”. This was due to the winding nature of the track and sitting up in the observation deck it appeared that we were slithering across the landscape. The freight trains keep coming which means we have to slow down and enjoy our surroundings. We almost have the observation deck to ourselves as half the passengers are at the first lunch sitting. At 12:15 there was some excitement as we were nearing one of the more spectacular landmarks, Pyramid Falls. The train crawled slowly past so all the passengers could get a good look at the water tumbling down the granite rock face.

Lunch is beckoning but I need to mention that the weather is still holding up. This is probably the only day which has been overcast but still it is not raining. The scenery just keeps on keeping on and the view from the observation car is best. The water along the six mile shoreline of Moose Lake was still slightly frozen. Mt Robson the highest mountain in the Rockies its peak shrouded in a cover of cloud was in the background. Towards the end of our journey we were fortunate enough to observe a large black bear in the open near the rail line. At approximately 4:30pm we pulled into the scenic town of Jasper.

We are staying for two nights at the Marmot Lodge and after conversing with a local have decided to walk to our hotel. The only problem was that he pointed us in the wrong direction so we had to turn around and head out of town in the opposite direction. After 30 minutes of wearing out shoe leather we reached the hotel. The walk was worth it as our room is huge and has a separate lounge and kitchen.  I think we could have a game of cricket in there.

Just before dinner the rain that had eluded us so far started to fall. It only lasted for 20 minutes and when it was over a huge rainbow lit up the sky. It was a little too late to cook dinner so it was a 15 minute walk into the centre of town for some pizza. On the way back to the hotel there were a few Caribou grazing next to the main road. Apparently, after eating snow covered lichen all winter they cannot resist the fresh shoots of grass that grow abundantly in the City area.