Wednesday 16th November – Pantip Plaza
I had great intentions of hitting the hotel gym before breakfast however I slept like a baby and did not wake until after 7:00. By the time I got out of bed the only motivation I had was for the buffet breakfast. Both of us should have been cows as we just took our time and grazed on the many food items that were available. Eventually we returned to our room and made ourselves ready for our today’s shopping adventure.
We have decided to visit Pantip Plaza which is an indoor IT Shopping Mall located on New Phetchaburi Road in Bangkok and a 150 baht taxi ride from our hotel. There are hundreds of small shops specialising in computer hardware, software, and accessories, including repair, modifications, networking, secondhand, laptops and peripherals. It used to be a major source of unauthorized copies of software, with software for both Windows and Mac readily available. Applications software and games, together with unlicensed copies of music and films were sold from many of the stalls on the lower three floors. These days only a few stores are selling pirated copies. We did manage to spend a few dollars but most of our time was taken up by browsing at all the gadgets.
With our electronic shopping over we caught up with Judy who is the mother of James’ partner Emily. It was pretty relaxing chilling out at another Novotel with great views of the canals and shopping district of Pratunam. With our visit over it was time for a late, light lunch. Street food was what we needed and a beef skewer and some spring rolls fitted the bill nicely. A leisurely stroll around the shopping district soon ate up the rest of the afternoon. A 200baht ($8) taxi fare and we were back at the hotel and a rest prior to dinner.
On speculation we walked along Silom Road for about 15 minutes looking at different options for dinner. We walked down one of the Sois and came across a street food restaurant aptly named Eat Cheaper that looked like it could deliver some good Thai food at a reasonable price. Alex the very camp head waiter/owner was gregarious and made everyone feel like they were special. He even gives the clientele the necessary 3 baht if they need to use the latrine. We ordered a couple of Thai dishes which we washed down with some beers. To finish we ordered some calamari skewers which were delicious. I think the total bill was an outrageous 300baht ($12) which meant that we would most likely return tomorrow night.
Thursday 17th November – MBK Centre
This morning I did manage to jump out of bed at 6:20 and head off down to the gym for some much needed exercise. I managed to get the heart rate up and raised quite a sweat. After a well needed shower it was time for grazing down at the buffet breakfast. I had a hankering for some poached eggs and the egg chef delivered with a perfect pair, eggs that is.
Today we are off on a train trip to do some more shopping. After topping up our “Rabbit Cards” we boarded our Skytrain for the twenty minute trip to the National Stadium station. The MBK Centre is a large shopping mall and we were determined to visit as many of the eight stories as possible. The center contains around 2,000 shops, restaurants and service outlets, including the 4-storey Tokyu department store. Daily visitor numbers are in excess of 100,000, half of whom are young Thai people and a third foreign visitors. It is popular with tourists, although the majority of shoppers are Bangkok residents. Many stores selling authentic merchandise are also available. MBK Center is connected to the Skytrain Silom line at the National Stadium station by elevated walkways.
I usually visit this store when I am in Bangkok as the prices are quite good and the range of goods available is extensive. As soon as we walked inside we knew that it was the place for a shopaholic to get their fix. Walking down the many aisles many of the store owners called out to us hoping to attract our attention and thus relieve us of our hard earned baht. We were certainly tempted at a few stores and James treated himself to a few needy purchases. With our bags full and both of us tired of shopping it was time for a feed.
Back at the hotel we sorted through our purchases and repacked them in the new bag that James bought. My old bag has a couple of tears and could not handle the 16kg that I need to convey home. With the repacking over I headed down to the hotel’s small pool for a relaxing late afternoon swim. There were only a couple of deck chairs available as it appears this is a popular location for those afflicted by the need for nicotine. Nevertheless, I managed to enjoy a quiet swim and the chance to catch up on some reading.
Around 18:30 we headed downstairs where James booked a taxi for his trip to the airport. Continuing up Silom Road we passed quite a few massage establishments that basically offered the same mix of massages at the same price. We eventually settled on one and had a one hour foot massage for 300baht ($12). Feeling relaxed it was time for dinner at Eat Cheaper. I had some king prawns and James went for the barbeque whole fish. The fish looked and according to James it tasted excellent. With dinner over we headed to the nearby Holiday Inn where we had spotted a bar selling craft beer. They had an extensive range but I settled on an IPA and James had a stout. I must have had a brain snap when I thought the beers were cheap as the final price for the two beers was 750baht ($30) which was substantially more than our dinner. The only saving grace was that they were great beers. James was in need of some essential supplies for Myanmar. A quick stop at Tops Supermarket gave him the opportunity to purchase some black tar or should I say Vegemite. You never know where this iconic brand will pop up.
Friday 18th November – Farewell James
After five weeks of travelling with James it is time to say goodbye as this morning he is off to the airport for a date with Myanmar (Burma). He has been a pleasure to travel with and neither of us feel the need that we have to do everything together. I put the gym on the backburner and after saying farewell to James adjourned to the buffet.
I did manage a session at the gym and afterwards headed off on the Skytrain for a bit of exploring. I ended up in the Patpong area and for some more exercise decided to walk back to my hotel. Along the way I discovered a Citibank ATM which dispensed cash with no ATM fee for Citibank cardholders. Thai banks are notorious for ripping off tourists as ATM fees are generally 200bht ($8). On a side note if you are travelling overseas then look at acquiring the Citibank Plus debit card as there is no international transaction conversion charge. Even though it was just after midday some of Patpong’s entrepreneurs were offering happy hour rates for who knows what. I declined their salacious offers and continued on my merry way down Silom Road.
In the early evening I headed out for another massage and then dinner once again at Eat Cheaper. Alex seated me at a table with one of his regulars who was dining alone. His name was Patrick and hailed from California. In between talking American politics I managed to order the whole fish I must agree with James that it was moist and delicious. After a relaxing evening I returned to the hotel and the late night Fox movie.
Saturday 19th November – Killing Time
I’m not really a gym junkie but I did manage another session prior to breakfast. After a refreshing shower I once again hit the buffet and grazed there until about 10:30. The rest of the morning was spent catching up on the diary and repacking my bag for the trip home. Eventually I headed downstairs and booked my taxi for my trip to the airport tonight. There were no problems and after handing over 550baht I headed off for lunch.
I spent the afternoon relaxing at the hotel and even managed to get in a swim. My ride to the airport isn’t until 20:00 so I headed out for another feed at Eat Cheaper. I only wanted a light meal so I tried the shrimp pad-thai and washed it down with a stubby of ice cold Singha beer. They have a simple accounting system in place at the restaurant. It involves not clearing the table until you are ready to leave. They then count the empty bottles and plates and presto you have the bill. My account for tonight’s meal was 100baht ($4). It was still too early for the airport so I returned to the Holiday Inn for one last craft beer. This time I opted for an American Stout which was full of flavor. The downside was it cost more than my previous two meals combined.
Finally it is time to leave for the airport and my taxi is not a taxi but a reasonably new wagon. Maybe I am travelling with Uber. Just as we departed the heavens opened up and the big fat rain tumbled down. The trip out to the airport took 45 minutes and as we approached mother nature put on a great light show. With all that thunder and lightning Alice and Bella would have been heading for the nearest bedroom.
On arrival at the terminal the check-in line wasn’t long and I soon had my bags on the conveyor belt. Unfortunately for me that is as far as they got. I knew that they were heavy but I didn’t think that they would weigh 40kg. I did my best pleading act but it was to no avail. It was now time to put my backup plan into action. I found a clear space in the middle of the foyer and removed a large plastic bag that I had strategically stored for such an event. Within a few minutes I had three separate carry on pieces and a new weight of 31.8kg which was acceptable. The security check was a little haphazard as they herded a very long queue to the other end of the terminal. The immigration queue was short and I was soon on my way to the CIP executive lounge. This is an excellent lounge with good facilities, food, drinks and includes alcohol. I’ll hang out here until it is time to board my flight which is scheduled to depart at 12:05am.
Sunday 20th November – Goin’ Home
Now that the time has finally arrived for my flight to depart I can allow myself a huge smile. I have really missed Alice, Jemma, Telissa, Aaron and of course Bob and can’t wait to see them. I will try and knock this flight on the head and will experiment by taking two sleeping tablets. Stay tuned for the results! There was no problem in boarding the flight but one thing I did notice is that you can now purchase duty free alcohol in Bangkok. It works in a similar way to Singapore where once you pay for the goods you can then pick up as you come to the stairs to the boarding lounge.
For a minute I thought that I was back in Kathmandu as there was no plane tethered to the air-bridge. Down the stairs we went and onto a bus for a 15 minute ride to the aircraft. Once there we were soon clambering up the stairs to take our seats. I didn’t have my glasses on so I ended up at the wrong seat and told the girl who was sitting there that she had my seat. She took one look at my boarding pass and politely informed me that I was three seats back. Suitably chastened I found my seat and went about stowing my three large items. Fortunately there was plenty of room in the overhead lockers. I held off taking the sleeping tablets as our aircraft seemed to be going nowhere. To kill the time I started watching a movie and we eventually took off 45 minutes late.
There was an announcement that a meal would be served and about one hour into the flight they delivered. I opted for a prawns and pasta which wasn’t half bad. Just prior to the meal I took 1.5 tablets as I did not want to risk being asleep when we touched down in Brisbane. I should not have worried as the tablets are not that strong. I did however manage about 3 to 4 hours sleep which is more than I usually get. About 100 minutes out of Brisbane there was movement at the station and the airline staff came around with some hot towels and a light breakfast. I think that the scrambled egg must have come from McDonalds as it was very ordinary. With some time to kill I managed to watch the Oscar winning movie ‘Bad Moms”. What it didn’t win an Oscar!
Just before midday we touched down in Brisbane. It is always a great feeling coming home and knowing what a great country we live in. I was in no hurry as I needed to stop for a mild code yellow, followed by a scan of my passport. The good news was that no other flights had landed prior to us so there were no queues at the duty free or passport control. After purchasing some Scotch for my gorgeous wife I headed over to the carousel for my luggage. I had some wood items and spices so I knew that I would have to those goods inspected at the quarantine station. There were no issues there but I was subjected to the Beagle sniffing my bags for drugs. With that over I was free to exit back into Australia and the arms of my Darlin! It is great to be home with loved ones and friends.
Saturday, November 26, 2016
I think I'm going to Katmandu
Saturday 12th November – Packing Day
After a leisurely breakfast I donned my Japanese Riding Boots (thongs) and headed down to the Busy Bee for my last yoga session. I decided that the 10:00 session would be good today as it would give me time this afternoon for some packing and organization of our bags. The class was once again enjoyable and this morning it was even more so as I was the lone male with ten women. Afterwards James and I met for lunch at the Sandwich Point. This is one of Pokhara’s good cheap eats as you can get a medium roll with ham and cheese for Rs190 ($2) and they always taste great. Afterwards I headed off to the barber as I wanted another close shave with the cutthroat razor. I thought that a haircut might also be in order so I lashed out and spent Rs300 ($3.70) for a cleanup. He even did a good job on removing my ear and nose hairs. I hope he gives the scissors a good clean after that sort of operation.
For our flight to Kathmandu we have a baggage limit of 20kg and we know that we will be slightly over that. With that in mind we have done an exceptional job of compartmentalizing our luggage. Between us we have about 46kg of luggage that we can place in the hold. We have now worked out a backup plan just in case they do not allow us the extra weight. Shekhar who knows people everywhere does not think we will have a problem. That is most likely because 1.5kg of that weight is some presents that I am bringing back to Brisbane for his daughter.
We have reserved a table for our last Pokhara dinner at the Concerto Restaurant. As we were leaving for dinner Shekhar asked if we would like to have dinner with him and his wife. His wife is a good cook and was going to prepare a special Dal Bhat for us. Due to our reservation we had to decline their generous offer but we promised to have a beer on our return. Our reserved table was adjacent to the fireplace and our waiter soon had an Everest beer on the table which was quickly followed by a smoothie and a bruschetta. Unfortunately that was as good as it gets. Our main course was delivered much too soon and the vegetables that came with it were cold. It seemed like they had been plated for some time before our beef and chicken were added. I voiced my displeasure to the waiter but declined the offer to reheat the food. It was a disappointing end to what has been a great culinary experience in Pokhara. We were back at the hotel quite early and managed to have a farewell drink.
Sunday 13th November – Back to Kathmandu
This morning we bid our farewell to Shekhar and his wife and at 9:00 we headed down to the airport for our return to Kathmandu. Both of us agreed that we could not face another 8 hour bus trip on the Prithvi Highway. Shekhar accompanied us down to the airport and ensured that we were not charged for our extra 9kg of luggage. After he left we stood in line and waited to be checked-in. We had arrived an hour before the scheduled flight time but it is Nepal and the check-in did not occur until 9:40. Our luggage went through without any trouble which is more than I can say about the large group who were trying to get their hand luggage through security. I don’t know what was in their bags but it took ages and a lot of emptying of bags before they got through. James and I just sailed straight through.
Our flight was scheduled to depart at 10:15 but there was no sight of our plane. With only five minutes before departure our plane finally touched down. I could not believe how fast they turned the plane around as we were airborne nine minutes later. It is only a small plane and each seat has an access to a window which in this case gives you a magnificent view of the Himalayas. There must have been some air traffic buildup as we did a couple of loops over the Kathmandu Valley. By the time we were ready to land I had a code yellow that was starting to incapacitate me. As soon as we hit the terminal I left James to take care of the baggage whilst I went in search of a comfort stop. With business taken care and then some negotiation with the taxi drivers we headed off to the Tibet Peace Inn.
After we had settled in we headed off to the Pumpernickel Café for lunch. It lived up to expectations and fortified us for a walk around Thamel. The rest of the afternoon was spent trolling the shops looking for some last minute bargains. When 18:00 rolled around I had to wake James who has needed a little shuteye. It was time for a pre-dinner drink at the Hole In The Wall bar that we visited when we were last in Kathmandu. There must be a couple of owners as there was a different Nepalese guy in charge. Nevertheless the music was great and the beer as promised was as cold as your ex’s heart. By the time James fronted I had nearly finished my beer but there was still enough time for a couple of beers. Dinner tonight was at the upmarket Third Eye restaurant that specializes in curries. We both looked resplendent in our shorts, tee-shirts and thongs. The food was great but I think my leg of baby lamb must have come from a giant sheep as it was huge.
Monday 14th November – Short Walks
With the majority of our shopping done we were in no hurry to head out into the hustle and bustle of Thamel. In fact we were so slow off the mark that our first stop of the morning was the Pumpernickel Café for lunch. I had my Lonely Planet with me so we decided on doing a couple of walks that should give us a medium workout of about 6km. With lunch over we launched ourselves into our first walk and headed south towards Durbar Square. This is a great walk as the Lonely Planet descriptions give you a good insight into what the various temples and gods represent. There are small side trip into small courtyards such as Itum Bahal which is one of the oldest in the city, with some lovely architecture and stupas. Unfortunately, many monuments were lost here in the 2015 earthquake. Piles of rubble and steel props holding up crumbling brickwork are evident as you wind your way through this myriad of alleys and main thoroughfares. The Nepalese are out in force today and on the main corridors the motorcycles with shrilling horns force their way through the tightly packed pedestrian traffic. By the end of our first walk we were seeking some respite from this cacophony of sound and the debilitating exhaust fumes.
When we reached Durbar Square the officials wanted us to pay Rs1000 to enter this area but we pointed out that we were headed further south away from the square on a walking tour. They relented and pointed us in the right direction. This walk isn’t quite as good as the first one as the temples and bahals are a little further apart. Whilst walking we only saw a couple of Westerners and they were close to Durbar Square. One of the more interesting sites was the old brick water tanks which are still used today despite the advent of a reticulated water supply. Closer to Durbar Square we visited the Adko Narayan Temple which is one of the four most important Vishnu temples in Kathmandu. Interestingly enough when we approached Durbar Square from this direction there was no ticket box to collect entrance fees. As a result James and I strolled around the square with impunity and time to explore the many temples.
By the end of our walks both of us had slight headaches and were feeling a little nauseous. Our condition was most likely caused by exhaust fumes and the unrelenting noise from motorcycles. It was with some relief when we escaped and found respite in an air-conditioned restaurant. Later in the evening we tried the Momo Hut for dinner. We ordered seven different types of momo including buffalo. There are several different styles of cooking momos so we enlisted the help of our waiter to choose the best style appropriate to each dish. The excellent food was complimented by a couple of Belgian beers.
Tuesday 15th November – Please Sir, Come This Way or Onwards to Bangkok
This morning I said a quiet prayer in remembrance of my Mum’s birthday. Also this morning we have to pack our bags and leave for the airport at around 10:30. The hotel staff called a taxi for us and we negotiated a price of Rs600 ($7.50) for the trip. It was easy to tell that the holiday period was over because even at this time of the day the traffic was chaos. I think most of the gridlock problems occur as a direct result of the police officers who are on point duty. They tend to let traffic flow in one direction for too long a period which causes no end of frustration and exceptionally long queues. Our driver tried a few rat runs only to find himself trapped. On one occasion we were held up for over ten minutes. In the end it took about 40 minutes to travel the short distance to the airport. I ended up giving the driver some extra money due to the long journey time.
On arrival at the airport we took on the services of a porter who seemed to know how to navigate his way around the terminal. There were a few flights leaving before us and the line for the baggage security check was out the door and onto the footpath. I took a walk to gauge the length of the queue and estimated that it would take up to an hour to get through. I need not have worried as our intrepid porter took us to a different area where there were no queues or delays. He couldn’t go past security so we gladly handed over Rs200 and thanked him for his help. Our Thai check-in was a similar experience as we ushered to the head of the line for an immediate check-in. Next it was up to the immigration counter and as luck would have it there were only two other foreigners in front of us. What could have been a nightmare experience turned out to be a breeze.
Our speedy transition allowed us to take full advantage of my Priority Pass and the access to the Executive Lounge. We both enjoyed the serenity of the lounge as well as the delicious food and beverages. The lounge was our home until they announced it was time for boarding our flight. Prior to entering the departure lounge you have to endure another security check. The queue was long but moving at a reasonable speed. Once again however someone with some authority ushered us to the front of the queue where we were immediately processed. We had no sooner sat down in the departure lounge when it was announced that we could board our flight. Given that there are no air bridges at Kathmandu we walked out onto the tarmac and boarded the old fashioned way up the back steps. Our two seats were at the rear of the plane and as a result we had plenty of leg room.
Our flight was uneventful and before long we began our descent into Bangkok. Due to our arrival time of 18:55 there were long queues waiting to be processed through immigration. There was no please sir on this occasion and it took about 40 minutes to have passports stamped. We obviously didn’t have to wait for our luggage as our bags had obviously been doing endless loops on the carousel. After collecting our gear we headed down to level 1 for a taxi to our hotel. The taxi system here is excellent and you receive a number which directs you to a bay where your taxi will pull up. The drivers don’t like using a meter and we had to negotiate a price of B500 ($20) for our trip into the City. We were using the tollway so overall the price was reasonable given the distance we are travelling. It was about 20:20 when we arrived at our destination the Novotel Fenix Silom. After staying in one to two star hotels for over a month we are both looking forward to some luxury.
After checking-in we were escorted to our large room on the 17th floor. The first thing we noticed was that our twin beds were right next to each other. They were so close we may as well have taken the upgrade and shared a king bed. Not quite, we did however reconfigure our room by moving the lounge and one of the beds to create a large space between us. The other great thing about the room is that we cannot hear dogs barking, pigeons cooing, motorcycles starting and unknown persons hawking. After picking up some supplies from the local 7-11 store we relaxed with a movie and then bed.
After a leisurely breakfast I donned my Japanese Riding Boots (thongs) and headed down to the Busy Bee for my last yoga session. I decided that the 10:00 session would be good today as it would give me time this afternoon for some packing and organization of our bags. The class was once again enjoyable and this morning it was even more so as I was the lone male with ten women. Afterwards James and I met for lunch at the Sandwich Point. This is one of Pokhara’s good cheap eats as you can get a medium roll with ham and cheese for Rs190 ($2) and they always taste great. Afterwards I headed off to the barber as I wanted another close shave with the cutthroat razor. I thought that a haircut might also be in order so I lashed out and spent Rs300 ($3.70) for a cleanup. He even did a good job on removing my ear and nose hairs. I hope he gives the scissors a good clean after that sort of operation.
For our flight to Kathmandu we have a baggage limit of 20kg and we know that we will be slightly over that. With that in mind we have done an exceptional job of compartmentalizing our luggage. Between us we have about 46kg of luggage that we can place in the hold. We have now worked out a backup plan just in case they do not allow us the extra weight. Shekhar who knows people everywhere does not think we will have a problem. That is most likely because 1.5kg of that weight is some presents that I am bringing back to Brisbane for his daughter.
We have reserved a table for our last Pokhara dinner at the Concerto Restaurant. As we were leaving for dinner Shekhar asked if we would like to have dinner with him and his wife. His wife is a good cook and was going to prepare a special Dal Bhat for us. Due to our reservation we had to decline their generous offer but we promised to have a beer on our return. Our reserved table was adjacent to the fireplace and our waiter soon had an Everest beer on the table which was quickly followed by a smoothie and a bruschetta. Unfortunately that was as good as it gets. Our main course was delivered much too soon and the vegetables that came with it were cold. It seemed like they had been plated for some time before our beef and chicken were added. I voiced my displeasure to the waiter but declined the offer to reheat the food. It was a disappointing end to what has been a great culinary experience in Pokhara. We were back at the hotel quite early and managed to have a farewell drink.
Sunday 13th November – Back to Kathmandu
This morning we bid our farewell to Shekhar and his wife and at 9:00 we headed down to the airport for our return to Kathmandu. Both of us agreed that we could not face another 8 hour bus trip on the Prithvi Highway. Shekhar accompanied us down to the airport and ensured that we were not charged for our extra 9kg of luggage. After he left we stood in line and waited to be checked-in. We had arrived an hour before the scheduled flight time but it is Nepal and the check-in did not occur until 9:40. Our luggage went through without any trouble which is more than I can say about the large group who were trying to get their hand luggage through security. I don’t know what was in their bags but it took ages and a lot of emptying of bags before they got through. James and I just sailed straight through.
Our flight was scheduled to depart at 10:15 but there was no sight of our plane. With only five minutes before departure our plane finally touched down. I could not believe how fast they turned the plane around as we were airborne nine minutes later. It is only a small plane and each seat has an access to a window which in this case gives you a magnificent view of the Himalayas. There must have been some air traffic buildup as we did a couple of loops over the Kathmandu Valley. By the time we were ready to land I had a code yellow that was starting to incapacitate me. As soon as we hit the terminal I left James to take care of the baggage whilst I went in search of a comfort stop. With business taken care and then some negotiation with the taxi drivers we headed off to the Tibet Peace Inn.
After we had settled in we headed off to the Pumpernickel Café for lunch. It lived up to expectations and fortified us for a walk around Thamel. The rest of the afternoon was spent trolling the shops looking for some last minute bargains. When 18:00 rolled around I had to wake James who has needed a little shuteye. It was time for a pre-dinner drink at the Hole In The Wall bar that we visited when we were last in Kathmandu. There must be a couple of owners as there was a different Nepalese guy in charge. Nevertheless the music was great and the beer as promised was as cold as your ex’s heart. By the time James fronted I had nearly finished my beer but there was still enough time for a couple of beers. Dinner tonight was at the upmarket Third Eye restaurant that specializes in curries. We both looked resplendent in our shorts, tee-shirts and thongs. The food was great but I think my leg of baby lamb must have come from a giant sheep as it was huge.
Monday 14th November – Short Walks
With the majority of our shopping done we were in no hurry to head out into the hustle and bustle of Thamel. In fact we were so slow off the mark that our first stop of the morning was the Pumpernickel Café for lunch. I had my Lonely Planet with me so we decided on doing a couple of walks that should give us a medium workout of about 6km. With lunch over we launched ourselves into our first walk and headed south towards Durbar Square. This is a great walk as the Lonely Planet descriptions give you a good insight into what the various temples and gods represent. There are small side trip into small courtyards such as Itum Bahal which is one of the oldest in the city, with some lovely architecture and stupas. Unfortunately, many monuments were lost here in the 2015 earthquake. Piles of rubble and steel props holding up crumbling brickwork are evident as you wind your way through this myriad of alleys and main thoroughfares. The Nepalese are out in force today and on the main corridors the motorcycles with shrilling horns force their way through the tightly packed pedestrian traffic. By the end of our first walk we were seeking some respite from this cacophony of sound and the debilitating exhaust fumes.
When we reached Durbar Square the officials wanted us to pay Rs1000 to enter this area but we pointed out that we were headed further south away from the square on a walking tour. They relented and pointed us in the right direction. This walk isn’t quite as good as the first one as the temples and bahals are a little further apart. Whilst walking we only saw a couple of Westerners and they were close to Durbar Square. One of the more interesting sites was the old brick water tanks which are still used today despite the advent of a reticulated water supply. Closer to Durbar Square we visited the Adko Narayan Temple which is one of the four most important Vishnu temples in Kathmandu. Interestingly enough when we approached Durbar Square from this direction there was no ticket box to collect entrance fees. As a result James and I strolled around the square with impunity and time to explore the many temples.
By the end of our walks both of us had slight headaches and were feeling a little nauseous. Our condition was most likely caused by exhaust fumes and the unrelenting noise from motorcycles. It was with some relief when we escaped and found respite in an air-conditioned restaurant. Later in the evening we tried the Momo Hut for dinner. We ordered seven different types of momo including buffalo. There are several different styles of cooking momos so we enlisted the help of our waiter to choose the best style appropriate to each dish. The excellent food was complimented by a couple of Belgian beers.
Tuesday 15th November – Please Sir, Come This Way or Onwards to Bangkok
This morning I said a quiet prayer in remembrance of my Mum’s birthday. Also this morning we have to pack our bags and leave for the airport at around 10:30. The hotel staff called a taxi for us and we negotiated a price of Rs600 ($7.50) for the trip. It was easy to tell that the holiday period was over because even at this time of the day the traffic was chaos. I think most of the gridlock problems occur as a direct result of the police officers who are on point duty. They tend to let traffic flow in one direction for too long a period which causes no end of frustration and exceptionally long queues. Our driver tried a few rat runs only to find himself trapped. On one occasion we were held up for over ten minutes. In the end it took about 40 minutes to travel the short distance to the airport. I ended up giving the driver some extra money due to the long journey time.
On arrival at the airport we took on the services of a porter who seemed to know how to navigate his way around the terminal. There were a few flights leaving before us and the line for the baggage security check was out the door and onto the footpath. I took a walk to gauge the length of the queue and estimated that it would take up to an hour to get through. I need not have worried as our intrepid porter took us to a different area where there were no queues or delays. He couldn’t go past security so we gladly handed over Rs200 and thanked him for his help. Our Thai check-in was a similar experience as we ushered to the head of the line for an immediate check-in. Next it was up to the immigration counter and as luck would have it there were only two other foreigners in front of us. What could have been a nightmare experience turned out to be a breeze.
Our speedy transition allowed us to take full advantage of my Priority Pass and the access to the Executive Lounge. We both enjoyed the serenity of the lounge as well as the delicious food and beverages. The lounge was our home until they announced it was time for boarding our flight. Prior to entering the departure lounge you have to endure another security check. The queue was long but moving at a reasonable speed. Once again however someone with some authority ushered us to the front of the queue where we were immediately processed. We had no sooner sat down in the departure lounge when it was announced that we could board our flight. Given that there are no air bridges at Kathmandu we walked out onto the tarmac and boarded the old fashioned way up the back steps. Our two seats were at the rear of the plane and as a result we had plenty of leg room.
Our flight was uneventful and before long we began our descent into Bangkok. Due to our arrival time of 18:55 there were long queues waiting to be processed through immigration. There was no please sir on this occasion and it took about 40 minutes to have passports stamped. We obviously didn’t have to wait for our luggage as our bags had obviously been doing endless loops on the carousel. After collecting our gear we headed down to level 1 for a taxi to our hotel. The taxi system here is excellent and you receive a number which directs you to a bay where your taxi will pull up. The drivers don’t like using a meter and we had to negotiate a price of B500 ($20) for our trip into the City. We were using the tollway so overall the price was reasonable given the distance we are travelling. It was about 20:20 when we arrived at our destination the Novotel Fenix Silom. After staying in one to two star hotels for over a month we are both looking forward to some luxury.
After checking-in we were escorted to our large room on the 17th floor. The first thing we noticed was that our twin beds were right next to each other. They were so close we may as well have taken the upgrade and shared a king bed. Not quite, we did however reconfigure our room by moving the lounge and one of the beds to create a large space between us. The other great thing about the room is that we cannot hear dogs barking, pigeons cooing, motorcycles starting and unknown persons hawking. After picking up some supplies from the local 7-11 store we relaxed with a movie and then bed.
Saturday, November 12, 2016
Rafting and Golf
Tuesday 8th November – White Water Rafting, Upper Seti River
Today’s adrenalin rush is a short dose of grade 3 to 4 white water rafting with the Paddle Nepal company. The advantage of this trip is that it is only a 30 minute drive from Pokhara’s Lakeside, this short and sweet rafting adventure offers 1 ½ hours of non-stop adrenaline filled rapids. The company has its own bus and sure enough we arrived at the Seti River pretty well on time. They geared us up with a helmet, life jacket, a much appreciated waterproof jacket and of course a paddle. It was a pretty thorough safety briefing covering all aspects including what to do if you fall overboard. Big James Phillips was allocated the prime front position which I secretly coveted. Alas, when they look at me they see a skinny old man who should be placed at the back. James thought that the Swedish guy who was next to him paddled like a wimp.
As soon as we launched into the river the fun began. Mother Nature seems to pack more rapids into 90 minutes on the Upper Seti than some other rivers provide in 2 to 3 days. It was like being on a roller coaster with non-stop action. There are fantastic Annapurna mountain views, crystal clear Himalayan whitewater and a beautiful gorge decorated with a suspension bridge and prayer flags. One section was considered too dangerous for us so we had to walk around this particular rapid. The bonus was that we got to jump off a cliff into the icy waters of the Seti. I gave a good impression of the famous Kawaku Dive or in this instance jump. After completing our last rapid James and I thought that rafting the Upper Seti River is the ultimate half day rafting trip in Nepal. It is definitely more fun than the Trisuli River. The cost of the trip was Rs 5400 ($67) and I would really consider a two or three day trip with them next time I visit.
www.paddlenepal.com/rafting-upper-seti-river. Upper Seti River Rafting is a short and sweet paddling adventure which offers 1 ½ hours of non-stop adrenaline filled class III+/IV rapids.
Lunch was provided so on arrival at Pokhara we returned to the hotel. After a short rest I ventured down to the Busy Bee for 90 minutes of stretching at the Yoga class. This session I think that I was a little more flexible but the old knees go into shutdown mode on a couple of the stretches. At the end of the class the instructor said that I was reasonably flexible. She left out the part “for an old guy”. After the class James and I went up to the Godfather Restaurant so I could have a couple of cheap beers. We ordered a garlic pizza which was delicious. Unfortunately, James stomach cramps hit him straight after eating so he had to return to the hotel for rest. I kicked on for another hour before returning to the hotel.
Wednesday 9th November – Time for a Doctor
James had another bad night with stomach pain so this morning he has arranged with Shekhar to see a doctor. His appointment is for 13:00 so he killed some time by booking us in for an early evening massage. Meanwhile I headed off for a 10:00 yoga class for some more stretching. The only pose that I had a problem with was the Warrior 3 where I just could not stretch and balance on one leg at the same time. It was a good class and with only three students I had plenty of room to hide my inadequacies.
I went out for lunch whilst Shekhar escorted James to the doctor’s surgery. James’ prognosis after his visit is that he has a gastric issue and needs to eat bland foods and take some prescription drugs. Hopefully they will kick in over the next couple of days and kill the bug. This afternoon was spent relaxing and keeping an eye on the weather. For the first time in weeks the sky is overcast and it may rain.
For something different this evening we went for a massage at the Jiva Spa. James who is feeling a little better has opted for the 90 minute Swedish massage whilst I went for a hot stone massage. This is a more gentle form of massage and the hot stones help to relax the muscles. The only problem was that some of the stones were way to hot and left a few red marks on my stomach and chest. Nevertheless I did enjoy the fact that a lot of essential oils have helped rejuvenate my skin. Afterwards we adjourned to the Moondance which is one of Pokharas premium restaurants. We had booked a table on the balcony which gave us an excellent repository to view our surrounds. James has to avoid meat and spices so he opted for an enchilada with plain rice whilst I went for the more expensive wild boar stew with a red wine and tomato base. Both dishes were excellent and even though it is slightly more expensive here the overall cost for both of us was well under $40.
Thursday 10th November – Peace Pagoda, Pokhara
There was no urgency this morning as we are quite flexible with our plans. It is another gorgeous day and coupled with James’ health improvement we have decided to hike up to the Peace Pagoda that stands sentinel high on the hill overlooking Phewa Lake and Pokhara. A little prior to 10:00 we sauntered down to the lake and hired a boat with a paddler for a return trip across the lake. The cost was Rs1120 ($14) which included the two hour wait on the other side of the lake whist we clambered to the top of the hill. The major surprise for the trip across was that the person who was the designated paddler was a female. With two big buffoons in the canoe she powerfully stroked her way down and across the lake. We had a great view of the island temple as well as the snow-capped mountain range.
When we reached our disembarkation point we jumped out and started our slow steady climb to the summit. It wasn’t a walk in the park but given what we had scaled in the last few weeks it wasn’t a difficult ascent. James and I soon found our slow but steady pace and soon passed the climbers who need to stop to catch their breath. At a couple of points on our ascent there were some great panoramas and hopefully our photographs will reflect what we saw. I was a little in front of James and reached the Pagoda a little after 30 minutes. When James did not arrive I surmised that he had taken a wrong turn and gone to the viewpoint. Whilst James was off taking in the Himalayan views I was relaxing at the Peace Pagoda and soaking up the tranquility of the site. About 25 minutes later James arrived after his sojourn to the view point. Even with his wrong turn we were in front of our two hour schedule. After the obligatory photographs we thought it was time to start our descent back down to the lake.
The walk down was obviously a lot quicker but we still had to take our time as the steeper sections are quite treacherous and slippery underfoot. At the lake our boat lady with a cigarette dangling from the side of her mouth was still patiently waiting for our return. Once on board she wasted no time in propelling us back to the opposite shore. It was after 13:00 by the time we returned so we took a late lunch at a restaurant which does a pretty good coffee. A young trainee was serving us and his speed of service was at least faster than the kitchen staff. There were a couple of people in the restaurant and it appears that they are only competent enough to cook one meal at a time. It took nearly an hour to boil some soup and fry a vegie burger. The one saving grace was that the food and coffee was good.
By the time 16:00 came around I was ready for another stint of yoga. I’m still improving but my dagwood (downward) dog could be better. James’ drugs are working fine so he was up for a curry dinner. We found a good little vegetarian curry establishment and had an exceptional meal at a very reasonable price. Mine was so plentiful that I over indulged to the point of gluttony.
Friday 11th November – Himalayan Golf
Today we have organized a game of golf at the internationally acclaimed Himalayan Golf Course which is located on the outskirts of Pokhara about 30 minutes away. It isn’t really internationally acclaimed but is considered by many to be one of the 10 most unique golf courses in the world. The Himalayan Golf Course is one of only two 18 holes courses in Nepal. The course is well laid out championship course at 6,100 yards yardage with a par of 70. The course for the most part inside a sweeping canyon created by the Himalayan snowed waters of the Bijayapur River. Framed by the towering the Annapurna range, cattle and buffalo roam freely providing most of the grass mowing. The course wanders through aerial cliff drops of hundreds of feet down to the signature island hole within the either tranquil or raging Bijayapur river, full of exposed boulders washed down over centuries from the towering mountains above.
After parting with $US 50 for green fees, clubs and a caddy we had to dip into our pockets for some balls and tees. The club professional convinced us to purchase 15 balls as given our skill level he thought we would need everyone of them. James got the professional caddy who also played off single figures and I was stuck with a talkative and somewhat annoying 12 year old. The plus side was that he didn’t mind searching for the balls that I inevitably sprayed all over the course.
We bypassed play on the 1st and 2nd holes which also double as the 17th and 18th. They are fairly straightforward as these par 4's are laid out on relatively level ground on each side of the clubhouse. Our baptism to the truly unique character of this course came when we stepped up to the 3rd tee to be confronted with a flawless panorama which encompasses the magnificent Fishtail and Annapurna mountain range. Below our elevated tee you see and hear the meandering Bijayapur River some 300 feet below. There are sheer canyon walls dotted with eagle's nests, waterfalls and a barely perceptible flag. Some 300 yards distant and 90 feet below, this small triangular piece of fabric marks the place where your ball should end up after only four strokes. As luck would have it both our tee shots found the fairway and I ended up with a credible bogey. There is no other experience that duplicates or even comes close to the thrill of teeing off on the 3rd.
Our journey over the course was frustrating, infuriating and above all rewarding. At times it was like being back on the Annapurna Circuit as we traipsed uphill and down dale. Our ball supplies were dwindling as fast as the credits on a poker machine and thankfully our caddies were able to find quite a few that we had given up as lost. With no local knowledge and greens that were often not visible we were playing like the Blind Boys from Alabama. My shots were getting progressively worse and in one instance I threw my club at the bag and narrowly missed my caddy. I did apologise but he still gave me a filthy look. The one saving grace was that he did quiet down a bit. After completing the 15th hole we trudged back up the side of the canyon to face the 16th hole known as the Abyss. It is a par 3 and you have to hit your ball 160 yards across the canyon. I stepped nervously up to the tee and hit a reasonable shot that took a lucky bounce off the rock wall. James wasn’t so lucky and his ball ended up in the abyss. We finished off the last two holes with the club professional and acquitted ourselves reasonably well. We finished our round with one ball each and a healthy respect for the course. While we waited for our taxi we shared a cool beer overlooking the canyon and the hole far below.
I was a little disappointed this afternoon as my yoga class was cancelled due to a band performing a late afternoon gig next door. Just too noisy for yoga! Nevertheless I still had my 17:30 massage to look forward to. I must be coming a sensitive metrosexual guy as today I have opted for a body scrub with traditional Nepalese massage. The body scrub was invigorating as the masseuse really worked the scrub into my dry old skin. The scrub was a mixture of coffee, honey, rice flour, olive oil and hot milk. I wished that I could have taken a picture as when I was completely basted I looked like a chocolate brownie. All they had to do was stick me in the oven, set the temperature at 180 degrees and I would have been done. It did however take me about ten minutes to wash myself. The massage was very relaxing and I almost fell asleep. For dinner we treated ourselves to a medium rare steak from the Everest Steakhouse.
Today’s adrenalin rush is a short dose of grade 3 to 4 white water rafting with the Paddle Nepal company. The advantage of this trip is that it is only a 30 minute drive from Pokhara’s Lakeside, this short and sweet rafting adventure offers 1 ½ hours of non-stop adrenaline filled rapids. The company has its own bus and sure enough we arrived at the Seti River pretty well on time. They geared us up with a helmet, life jacket, a much appreciated waterproof jacket and of course a paddle. It was a pretty thorough safety briefing covering all aspects including what to do if you fall overboard. Big James Phillips was allocated the prime front position which I secretly coveted. Alas, when they look at me they see a skinny old man who should be placed at the back. James thought that the Swedish guy who was next to him paddled like a wimp.
As soon as we launched into the river the fun began. Mother Nature seems to pack more rapids into 90 minutes on the Upper Seti than some other rivers provide in 2 to 3 days. It was like being on a roller coaster with non-stop action. There are fantastic Annapurna mountain views, crystal clear Himalayan whitewater and a beautiful gorge decorated with a suspension bridge and prayer flags. One section was considered too dangerous for us so we had to walk around this particular rapid. The bonus was that we got to jump off a cliff into the icy waters of the Seti. I gave a good impression of the famous Kawaku Dive or in this instance jump. After completing our last rapid James and I thought that rafting the Upper Seti River is the ultimate half day rafting trip in Nepal. It is definitely more fun than the Trisuli River. The cost of the trip was Rs 5400 ($67) and I would really consider a two or three day trip with them next time I visit.
www.paddlenepal.com/rafting-upper-seti-river. Upper Seti River Rafting is a short and sweet paddling adventure which offers 1 ½ hours of non-stop adrenaline filled class III+/IV rapids.
Lunch was provided so on arrival at Pokhara we returned to the hotel. After a short rest I ventured down to the Busy Bee for 90 minutes of stretching at the Yoga class. This session I think that I was a little more flexible but the old knees go into shutdown mode on a couple of the stretches. At the end of the class the instructor said that I was reasonably flexible. She left out the part “for an old guy”. After the class James and I went up to the Godfather Restaurant so I could have a couple of cheap beers. We ordered a garlic pizza which was delicious. Unfortunately, James stomach cramps hit him straight after eating so he had to return to the hotel for rest. I kicked on for another hour before returning to the hotel.
Wednesday 9th November – Time for a Doctor
James had another bad night with stomach pain so this morning he has arranged with Shekhar to see a doctor. His appointment is for 13:00 so he killed some time by booking us in for an early evening massage. Meanwhile I headed off for a 10:00 yoga class for some more stretching. The only pose that I had a problem with was the Warrior 3 where I just could not stretch and balance on one leg at the same time. It was a good class and with only three students I had plenty of room to hide my inadequacies.
I went out for lunch whilst Shekhar escorted James to the doctor’s surgery. James’ prognosis after his visit is that he has a gastric issue and needs to eat bland foods and take some prescription drugs. Hopefully they will kick in over the next couple of days and kill the bug. This afternoon was spent relaxing and keeping an eye on the weather. For the first time in weeks the sky is overcast and it may rain.
For something different this evening we went for a massage at the Jiva Spa. James who is feeling a little better has opted for the 90 minute Swedish massage whilst I went for a hot stone massage. This is a more gentle form of massage and the hot stones help to relax the muscles. The only problem was that some of the stones were way to hot and left a few red marks on my stomach and chest. Nevertheless I did enjoy the fact that a lot of essential oils have helped rejuvenate my skin. Afterwards we adjourned to the Moondance which is one of Pokharas premium restaurants. We had booked a table on the balcony which gave us an excellent repository to view our surrounds. James has to avoid meat and spices so he opted for an enchilada with plain rice whilst I went for the more expensive wild boar stew with a red wine and tomato base. Both dishes were excellent and even though it is slightly more expensive here the overall cost for both of us was well under $40.
Thursday 10th November – Peace Pagoda, Pokhara
There was no urgency this morning as we are quite flexible with our plans. It is another gorgeous day and coupled with James’ health improvement we have decided to hike up to the Peace Pagoda that stands sentinel high on the hill overlooking Phewa Lake and Pokhara. A little prior to 10:00 we sauntered down to the lake and hired a boat with a paddler for a return trip across the lake. The cost was Rs1120 ($14) which included the two hour wait on the other side of the lake whist we clambered to the top of the hill. The major surprise for the trip across was that the person who was the designated paddler was a female. With two big buffoons in the canoe she powerfully stroked her way down and across the lake. We had a great view of the island temple as well as the snow-capped mountain range.
When we reached our disembarkation point we jumped out and started our slow steady climb to the summit. It wasn’t a walk in the park but given what we had scaled in the last few weeks it wasn’t a difficult ascent. James and I soon found our slow but steady pace and soon passed the climbers who need to stop to catch their breath. At a couple of points on our ascent there were some great panoramas and hopefully our photographs will reflect what we saw. I was a little in front of James and reached the Pagoda a little after 30 minutes. When James did not arrive I surmised that he had taken a wrong turn and gone to the viewpoint. Whilst James was off taking in the Himalayan views I was relaxing at the Peace Pagoda and soaking up the tranquility of the site. About 25 minutes later James arrived after his sojourn to the view point. Even with his wrong turn we were in front of our two hour schedule. After the obligatory photographs we thought it was time to start our descent back down to the lake.
The walk down was obviously a lot quicker but we still had to take our time as the steeper sections are quite treacherous and slippery underfoot. At the lake our boat lady with a cigarette dangling from the side of her mouth was still patiently waiting for our return. Once on board she wasted no time in propelling us back to the opposite shore. It was after 13:00 by the time we returned so we took a late lunch at a restaurant which does a pretty good coffee. A young trainee was serving us and his speed of service was at least faster than the kitchen staff. There were a couple of people in the restaurant and it appears that they are only competent enough to cook one meal at a time. It took nearly an hour to boil some soup and fry a vegie burger. The one saving grace was that the food and coffee was good.
By the time 16:00 came around I was ready for another stint of yoga. I’m still improving but my dagwood (downward) dog could be better. James’ drugs are working fine so he was up for a curry dinner. We found a good little vegetarian curry establishment and had an exceptional meal at a very reasonable price. Mine was so plentiful that I over indulged to the point of gluttony.
Friday 11th November – Himalayan Golf
Today we have organized a game of golf at the internationally acclaimed Himalayan Golf Course which is located on the outskirts of Pokhara about 30 minutes away. It isn’t really internationally acclaimed but is considered by many to be one of the 10 most unique golf courses in the world. The Himalayan Golf Course is one of only two 18 holes courses in Nepal. The course is well laid out championship course at 6,100 yards yardage with a par of 70. The course for the most part inside a sweeping canyon created by the Himalayan snowed waters of the Bijayapur River. Framed by the towering the Annapurna range, cattle and buffalo roam freely providing most of the grass mowing. The course wanders through aerial cliff drops of hundreds of feet down to the signature island hole within the either tranquil or raging Bijayapur river, full of exposed boulders washed down over centuries from the towering mountains above.
After parting with $US 50 for green fees, clubs and a caddy we had to dip into our pockets for some balls and tees. The club professional convinced us to purchase 15 balls as given our skill level he thought we would need everyone of them. James got the professional caddy who also played off single figures and I was stuck with a talkative and somewhat annoying 12 year old. The plus side was that he didn’t mind searching for the balls that I inevitably sprayed all over the course.
We bypassed play on the 1st and 2nd holes which also double as the 17th and 18th. They are fairly straightforward as these par 4's are laid out on relatively level ground on each side of the clubhouse. Our baptism to the truly unique character of this course came when we stepped up to the 3rd tee to be confronted with a flawless panorama which encompasses the magnificent Fishtail and Annapurna mountain range. Below our elevated tee you see and hear the meandering Bijayapur River some 300 feet below. There are sheer canyon walls dotted with eagle's nests, waterfalls and a barely perceptible flag. Some 300 yards distant and 90 feet below, this small triangular piece of fabric marks the place where your ball should end up after only four strokes. As luck would have it both our tee shots found the fairway and I ended up with a credible bogey. There is no other experience that duplicates or even comes close to the thrill of teeing off on the 3rd.
Our journey over the course was frustrating, infuriating and above all rewarding. At times it was like being back on the Annapurna Circuit as we traipsed uphill and down dale. Our ball supplies were dwindling as fast as the credits on a poker machine and thankfully our caddies were able to find quite a few that we had given up as lost. With no local knowledge and greens that were often not visible we were playing like the Blind Boys from Alabama. My shots were getting progressively worse and in one instance I threw my club at the bag and narrowly missed my caddy. I did apologise but he still gave me a filthy look. The one saving grace was that he did quiet down a bit. After completing the 15th hole we trudged back up the side of the canyon to face the 16th hole known as the Abyss. It is a par 3 and you have to hit your ball 160 yards across the canyon. I stepped nervously up to the tee and hit a reasonable shot that took a lucky bounce off the rock wall. James wasn’t so lucky and his ball ended up in the abyss. We finished off the last two holes with the club professional and acquitted ourselves reasonably well. We finished our round with one ball each and a healthy respect for the course. While we waited for our taxi we shared a cool beer overlooking the canyon and the hole far below.
I was a little disappointed this afternoon as my yoga class was cancelled due to a band performing a late afternoon gig next door. Just too noisy for yoga! Nevertheless I still had my 17:30 massage to look forward to. I must be coming a sensitive metrosexual guy as today I have opted for a body scrub with traditional Nepalese massage. The body scrub was invigorating as the masseuse really worked the scrub into my dry old skin. The scrub was a mixture of coffee, honey, rice flour, olive oil and hot milk. I wished that I could have taken a picture as when I was completely basted I looked like a chocolate brownie. All they had to do was stick me in the oven, set the temperature at 180 degrees and I would have been done. It did however take me about ten minutes to wash myself. The massage was very relaxing and I almost fell asleep. For dinner we treated ourselves to a medium rare steak from the Everest Steakhouse.
Up in the air
Thursday 3rd November – Happy Anniversary (Poon Hill, Ghorepani to Tadapani – 15km, 2710m)
This morning I was awake at 4:35 to determine if it is worth the effort of ascending to Poon Hill (3210m) for sunrise. A quick look out the window confirmed it was another beautiful day and that an early morning stroll was in order. James has begged off on accompanying me as after a bad night he is not feeling too great. Tika offered to go with me but I told him to go back to bed. Judging by the smile on his face he was relieved that he could return to the land of nod. I started off at 5:00 and after faltering early, soon settled into a nice rhythm and made it to the top in a very credible 35 mins. The spectacular panorama stretches from Dhaulagiri I (8167m) and Tukuche (6920m) to Nilgiri (6940m), Annapurna South, Annapurna I (8091m), Hiunchuli (6441m) and Tarke Kang (7193m). Watching the sun rise over the unobstructed Himalaya is a special moment but due to the other 100 plus people at the pass there is not much serenity. There was a bit of a cool breeze and by 6:30 I’d had enough and headed back down to the lodge for breakfast.
I mucked around a bit and did not get away until 8:45. Tika and I took off like startled gazelles and headed east from Ghorepani in an effort to catch James who had left much earlier. We caught up at a chautaara (resting place for porters) on a grassy knoll that offered good mountain views similar to those from Poon Hill, including a view of Machhapuchhare and a panorama all the way south to the plains of India. We kept climbing past a teahouse and meandered along the ridge in pine and rhododendron forests to a crest at 3210m. The descent on the north side of the ridge is along a slippery, muddy trail interlaced with tree roots to Deorali (3090m).
A ridge hides the mountains as the trail makes a steep, sometimes treacherous descent on a narrow path alongside the stream. The stream has some potential swimming pools alongside the trail and finally becomes a series of waterfalls over a jumble of boulders and logs that are washed down when this harmless-looking stream runs amok during the monsoon rains. The descent becomes easier as the route reaches Banthanti (2606m) which is in the shadow of a huge rock face. After crossing to the north side of the stream the trail starts climbing, leaving the moist, high mountain forests and entering a field of cane, making some ups and downs to a ridge top at 2700m, offering great views over the gorge to Ulleri. A rocky trail descends steeply to the Bhurungdi Khola before climbing again dishearteningly through steep forests for a further 20 minutes to Tadapani (2710m). The village is a jumble of hotels and souvenir stands. Tadapani means ‘far water’ and the water supply is a long distance below the village. The views of Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhare are spectacular from here, especially at sunset and from the Shiva Temple just above the village.
Business is brisk in Tadapani today as Tika and I had to try half a dozen lodges before we found two rooms at the Panorama Lodge. As James isn’t well he is getting the double room whilst I have the pleasure of sleeping in a matchbox next to the toilet. After storing the bags I walked downhill and caught up with James who has doggedly made his way up. He looked relieved when he finally laid his carcass on the extra thick mattress. After a quick bite to eat he retired to his room for a quick break. Meanwhile I rang Alice and caught up for a chat and a long distance celebration of our 15th wedding anniversary. Time flies when you are in love and having fun. I felt well and truly alive after that call. The rest of the afternoon we spent relaxing and enjoying the great views. As the sun prepared to set we could see from our eagles nest position the smoke rising from the chimneys of the other lodges. Our wood fired stove is chugging along nicely and the dining room is real toasty.
Friday 4th November – Another Easy Day (Tadapani to Ghandruk – 9km, 1990m)
Well tonight will be our last night on the trail but first we have a reasonably easy mostly downhill trek to Ghandruk. After a leisurely breakfast we hit the trail which descends steeply from the Himalaya Tourist Guest House a little after 8:30. The first section took us through forests where we were fortunate to spot a wood-pecker. For over two hours we enjoyed the serenity of the forest and the birdlife. There were a couple of big groups heading up but we had to concentrate on where we placed our feet on the slippery shale. In some of the steeper sections there was a stream that cascaded down the mountainside. Some of the deeper holes looked good enough to swim in.
We eventually emerged at a clearing with two hotels known as Baise Kharka (Buffalo Pasture). There are two trails from here and we took the right-hand trail making a short, steep descent among rocks to a stream crossing which then leads out on a ridge towards Ghandruk. It reaches the top of Ghandruk and descends on stone steps into the maze of the village itself. All up I think we only walked for 2.5 hours and neither of us broke into a sweat. Our digs tonight are at the Trekkers Inn and because we were so early they had no rooms ready.
After lunch I decided on a stroll and donned my best footwear a pair of thongs to explore Ghandruk. It is wonderfully easy to get lost in the network of narrow alleyways. The dozen or so lodges are scattered throughout the village and are quite far apart, both in distance and elevation. There are little signboards at most trail junctions directing you to various hotels that are ‘1 minute away’. The times are very optimistic but time is what I had plenty of. There is not one but two museums dueling for your attention. Best is the Gurung Traditional Museum (admission Rs 75) which is an Aladdin’s Cave of hidden treasures. It is down a small alley off the main path. Highlights include a shield made from elephant skin and a bow string made from nettle fibre. The other museum (which has the same name and admission fee) is also worth a visit and has a restaurant offering a variety of dishes unique to this region. I took a shortcut back to my lodge through a German Bakery but did not see any pastries.
There is still plenty of sunlight but the lodge is now in shadow so I decided to take a quick shower before the solar hot water lost its steam.
Saturday 5th November – Day 20 the Last Day (Ghandruk, Naya Pul to Pokhara – 14km, 990m)
As we left town the trail descended to a stream and water-driven mill. A little further on there is an entrance arch where the trail to Landruk starts downhill on a steep stone staircase. The main trail to Birethanti which we are taking leads south from here, dropping at first on a staircase, then traversing high above the river on a wide stone-paved trail. There is a stream to cross at Chane (1690m) and you then continue to Kimche (1640m), where there are a few teashops and restaurants. This village is now quite ugly as the road from Naya Pul now finishes here. It also means it is a hub for buses and jeeps as villagers and trekkers can save a few hours by not having to walk uphill or downhill.
We kept following the ridge downhill to join the Modi Khola at Syauli Bazaar (1140m). The hotels and cafes here suddenly seem quite cosmopolitan. From here on the road becomes the trail. For the next 90 minutes the walking is relatively flat, which after the last 20 days seems distinctly weird. The road follows the river valley through a lovely birch forest and extensive rice terraces to Chimrong and then Lamakhet. It’s another 20 minutes to Birethanti (1000m). The last stretch of dirt road is dusty, rough and rocky, and follows the Modi Khola. We could have caught a taxi from Birethanti to Pokhara for Rs2000 but decided that we would finish the trek the way we started, on our own two legs. It’s a 30-minute walk on the rough road to Naya Pul, where it is a short climb to the road. Taxis and buses to Pokhara are available at Naya Pul well into the night. At Naya Pul the taxis were the same price but we ended up negotiating a price of Rs2500for an old worn out van that could not pull the skin off a rice custard. We wanted the extra room for a young Austrian backpacker, Lilly that we had met a few times on the trail.
It is only 40km to Pokhara but the road in places is so severely potholed that it took nearly two hours to reach the hotel. We may have been a little rude but we quickly paid our porters and headed straight to our room for a hot shower. I must say however that Tika and Krishna despite their inexperience have been a pleasure to travel with. Tika is the one with the get up and go which will make him an excellent porter/guide in the years to come. If anyone is travelling to Nepal I would be happy to give you his contact details.
In short order this afternoon I did manage to have a close shave for Rs200 ($2.50) from an excellent Nepalese barber. It feels good to have a fuzz free face once again. There was also a heap of laundry (Rs150 per kilo) that needed attending to and between us there was 6.5kg of soiled garments. At 5:30 we arrived at the Jiva Spa where we had a 90 minute Swedish massage (Rs2700) to rejuvenate our tired limbs. When the masseuse reached my calves I nearly went through the ceiling. By the end of the 90 minutes I thought that I had been twelve rounds with Rocky Balboa. To finish off our last day of trekking we paid a visit to the Everest Steakhouse for some medium rare eye fillet steak and my first beer.
Sunday 6th November - Perfect Paragliding
Another beautiful day and we do not have to hike anywhere. After paying Shekhar about Rs17000 for the balance of our porter fees and our airline tickets to Kathmandu we needed to take another trip to the ATM for some cash. There is not much point putting anything on the credit card as there is usually a surcharge of 3.5% to 5%. The weather is so perfect that I couldn’t miss the opportunity to go paragliding once again. As a consequence Shekhar has lined up a small company who will pick me up from the hotel at midday.
I arrived back early and to my surprise the paragliding agent was waiting for me. A quick change of clothes and I was whisked off to the office to sign my life away. The cost for a thirty minute flight is Rs9000 ($112) which includes photographs and a short video. Our transport arrived at the Sarangot launch pad about 12:30 and it wasn’t long before my pilot, Rocky from Nepal had me geared up. I think that our timing was perfect as there were less tandem paragliders than normal taking advantage of Pokhara’s great thermals. Our launch was just about perfect and I was soon soaring high above Sarangot. The views of the Himalayan range were of course breathtaking but the patchwork of rice paddies was also great. Rocky gave me a real panoramic flight and took me across the ridge line where I had some great views of the Seti River and new Pokhara. On previous flights the pilots had stuck to the same areas around Sarangot so this was a new experience. All too soon the flight was over as we touched ground on the shoreline of Phewa Lake. After checking his computer Rocky informed me that we had reached an altitude of 1619m and had been airborne for 33 minutes. After picking up my photographs it was back to the hotel and a late lunch with James.
James has been unwell for the last couple of days but he is determined to get a little food down. We settled on an old sandwich bar which served up a tasty ham and cheese roll and a lassi. Afterwards we strolled along the main drag before I left James to attend a 90 minute Yoga class. The female instructor was from Austria and she was quite passionate. The style of yoga is very similar to what I have been doing at the South Bank gym but the session was longer. I managed to accomplish most of the stretches but had to take a couple of short breaks. With the class over and my body stretched to the limits I headed back to the hotel to check up on James. He is still not great but I did manage to coax him out to dinner. The Concerto Restaurant is and old favourite of mine as I enjoyed a couple of meals there previously with Alice. They lived up to expectations and our roast chicken and oven roasted beef were delicious. It was so good that we will be definitely back for more.
Monday 7th November – Time for some UltraLight Flying
At 6:15 I jumped out of bed and hurriedly dressed as I am being picked up soon for my 7:00 appointment with an UltraLight open cockpit flight. I must be coming an adrenalin junkie or a more likely explanation is that I enjoy spending the kid’s inheritance. Seriously, with the great early morning weather, no clouds and fabulous views it was a one off opportunity to experience something different. The cost of a 30 minute flight with a photo and video package is an expensive Rs 21200 ($265).
It didn’t take long to gear me up and make sure that I was nice and warm. I didn’t put on any gloves because I wanted to keep my hands free for taking photographs. An Ultralight (Microlight) is a two-seated small aircraft with powered engine designed to carry no more than two people (pilot and passenger), with a maximum fuel capacity of 90 liters and a total weight of less than 600kg, including fuel and persons onboard. It has an imposed speed limit of less than 130 km/hr. Average speeds are about 80 km/hr. I was really impressed by the speed and the ease of the lift off. My package is called the Glory of Mt. Fishtail and after ten minutes flying we were tantalizing close to this sacred mountain as well as the Annapurnas. I could rave on for ages about how great this flight was but suffice to say it would have been great to book the sixty minute package. Our flight path also took us over Pokhara, Sarangot, Phewa Lake, Peace Pagoda and Devi Falls. All too soon my time was up and we coasted in for an ultra-smooth landing. Hopefully the photos will be a permanent reminder of a great adventure activity.
I was back at the hotel by 8:15 and ready for a decent breakfast. Unfortunately, James is still a bit squeamish and has decided to forego breakfast. After refueling the body I was off on another adventure, this time with Shekhar. I was his pillion passenger on the back of his motorcycle for a trip into the old part of Pokhara where all the residents shop and conduct their business. It is an adventure due to the number of buses, trucks, motorcycles and other mechanized implements of destruction. Our first stop was the bank and I accompanied Shekhar inside. I was amazed by the length of the queues of ordinary citizens who were trying to conduct a transaction. The only time I see queues like this at home is when Aldi have a good sale on or the Boxing Day sales. The Nepalese just wait patiently for their turn to come around. This scene was repeated at other banks around the town. Shekhar seemed to know someone one just about every corner. After finding a store for me where I purchased a knick knack for myself we headed off back to Lakeside and escaped the hustle and bustle of the big smoke. It was certainly a different two hour excursion.
After a late lunch James and I headed off to the Pokhara Immigration Office where we will try and extend our visas for another 15 days. We had completed the necessary documentation on-line but forgot to print a copy of our passports and current visa page. The office closed at 15:00 and we only had 10 minutes to comply with this regulation. Fortunately just around the corner from the office there is a couple of agencies who specialize in filling out the on-line application and printing the necessary documentation. We only the needed the photocopy which set us back a huge Rs20 (25cents). It only took us five minutes so we had a few minutes to spare before closing time. The visa extension costs Rs3200 ($40) which is a cheaper option than a 90 day visa which now costs $US100. Next time we will use the services of the agencies and remove the hassle of doing it ourselves.
With our administrative tasks over we took a 2km walk along the lake front back to our hotel. Another massage was in order so we organized one through Shekhar at the Tranquility Spa. We thought that a pickup had been arranged but I suspect that the reduction in price that we negotiated negated our free ride. In the end we had a ten minute walk to the spa which was okay but not as well laid out as the Jiva Spa. We both had the one hour Swedish massage which for me was excellent. James thought his was a little ordinary. It was around 18:30 and we did not feel like going back to the hotel prior to dinner. We were not flush with cash so on a whim we chose a cheap option called the Machhapuchhre Kitchen. I am a believer in the six degrees of separation as when we sat down at our table we spotted our Austrian friend Lilly who was dining alone. She joined us and within a few minutes our German friend Helge took a smoking table outside. We went out and said hello and had a couple of hugs before he introduced us to his Australian friend Nic. After dinner they joined us at the table and then it got really weird. It turns out that Nic lives in Annie Street at Milton, went to Milton State School and worked at the local IGA and Palace cinemas. He is about 22 and has embarked on a motorcycle adventure that started in Brisbane and finished for the interim in Nepal due to mechanical issues. A couple of Everest beers and we all said goodnight.
This morning I was awake at 4:35 to determine if it is worth the effort of ascending to Poon Hill (3210m) for sunrise. A quick look out the window confirmed it was another beautiful day and that an early morning stroll was in order. James has begged off on accompanying me as after a bad night he is not feeling too great. Tika offered to go with me but I told him to go back to bed. Judging by the smile on his face he was relieved that he could return to the land of nod. I started off at 5:00 and after faltering early, soon settled into a nice rhythm and made it to the top in a very credible 35 mins. The spectacular panorama stretches from Dhaulagiri I (8167m) and Tukuche (6920m) to Nilgiri (6940m), Annapurna South, Annapurna I (8091m), Hiunchuli (6441m) and Tarke Kang (7193m). Watching the sun rise over the unobstructed Himalaya is a special moment but due to the other 100 plus people at the pass there is not much serenity. There was a bit of a cool breeze and by 6:30 I’d had enough and headed back down to the lodge for breakfast.
I mucked around a bit and did not get away until 8:45. Tika and I took off like startled gazelles and headed east from Ghorepani in an effort to catch James who had left much earlier. We caught up at a chautaara (resting place for porters) on a grassy knoll that offered good mountain views similar to those from Poon Hill, including a view of Machhapuchhare and a panorama all the way south to the plains of India. We kept climbing past a teahouse and meandered along the ridge in pine and rhododendron forests to a crest at 3210m. The descent on the north side of the ridge is along a slippery, muddy trail interlaced with tree roots to Deorali (3090m).
A ridge hides the mountains as the trail makes a steep, sometimes treacherous descent on a narrow path alongside the stream. The stream has some potential swimming pools alongside the trail and finally becomes a series of waterfalls over a jumble of boulders and logs that are washed down when this harmless-looking stream runs amok during the monsoon rains. The descent becomes easier as the route reaches Banthanti (2606m) which is in the shadow of a huge rock face. After crossing to the north side of the stream the trail starts climbing, leaving the moist, high mountain forests and entering a field of cane, making some ups and downs to a ridge top at 2700m, offering great views over the gorge to Ulleri. A rocky trail descends steeply to the Bhurungdi Khola before climbing again dishearteningly through steep forests for a further 20 minutes to Tadapani (2710m). The village is a jumble of hotels and souvenir stands. Tadapani means ‘far water’ and the water supply is a long distance below the village. The views of Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhare are spectacular from here, especially at sunset and from the Shiva Temple just above the village.
Business is brisk in Tadapani today as Tika and I had to try half a dozen lodges before we found two rooms at the Panorama Lodge. As James isn’t well he is getting the double room whilst I have the pleasure of sleeping in a matchbox next to the toilet. After storing the bags I walked downhill and caught up with James who has doggedly made his way up. He looked relieved when he finally laid his carcass on the extra thick mattress. After a quick bite to eat he retired to his room for a quick break. Meanwhile I rang Alice and caught up for a chat and a long distance celebration of our 15th wedding anniversary. Time flies when you are in love and having fun. I felt well and truly alive after that call. The rest of the afternoon we spent relaxing and enjoying the great views. As the sun prepared to set we could see from our eagles nest position the smoke rising from the chimneys of the other lodges. Our wood fired stove is chugging along nicely and the dining room is real toasty.
Friday 4th November – Another Easy Day (Tadapani to Ghandruk – 9km, 1990m)
Well tonight will be our last night on the trail but first we have a reasonably easy mostly downhill trek to Ghandruk. After a leisurely breakfast we hit the trail which descends steeply from the Himalaya Tourist Guest House a little after 8:30. The first section took us through forests where we were fortunate to spot a wood-pecker. For over two hours we enjoyed the serenity of the forest and the birdlife. There were a couple of big groups heading up but we had to concentrate on where we placed our feet on the slippery shale. In some of the steeper sections there was a stream that cascaded down the mountainside. Some of the deeper holes looked good enough to swim in.
We eventually emerged at a clearing with two hotels known as Baise Kharka (Buffalo Pasture). There are two trails from here and we took the right-hand trail making a short, steep descent among rocks to a stream crossing which then leads out on a ridge towards Ghandruk. It reaches the top of Ghandruk and descends on stone steps into the maze of the village itself. All up I think we only walked for 2.5 hours and neither of us broke into a sweat. Our digs tonight are at the Trekkers Inn and because we were so early they had no rooms ready.
After lunch I decided on a stroll and donned my best footwear a pair of thongs to explore Ghandruk. It is wonderfully easy to get lost in the network of narrow alleyways. The dozen or so lodges are scattered throughout the village and are quite far apart, both in distance and elevation. There are little signboards at most trail junctions directing you to various hotels that are ‘1 minute away’. The times are very optimistic but time is what I had plenty of. There is not one but two museums dueling for your attention. Best is the Gurung Traditional Museum (admission Rs 75) which is an Aladdin’s Cave of hidden treasures. It is down a small alley off the main path. Highlights include a shield made from elephant skin and a bow string made from nettle fibre. The other museum (which has the same name and admission fee) is also worth a visit and has a restaurant offering a variety of dishes unique to this region. I took a shortcut back to my lodge through a German Bakery but did not see any pastries.
There is still plenty of sunlight but the lodge is now in shadow so I decided to take a quick shower before the solar hot water lost its steam.
Saturday 5th November – Day 20 the Last Day (Ghandruk, Naya Pul to Pokhara – 14km, 990m)
As we left town the trail descended to a stream and water-driven mill. A little further on there is an entrance arch where the trail to Landruk starts downhill on a steep stone staircase. The main trail to Birethanti which we are taking leads south from here, dropping at first on a staircase, then traversing high above the river on a wide stone-paved trail. There is a stream to cross at Chane (1690m) and you then continue to Kimche (1640m), where there are a few teashops and restaurants. This village is now quite ugly as the road from Naya Pul now finishes here. It also means it is a hub for buses and jeeps as villagers and trekkers can save a few hours by not having to walk uphill or downhill.
We kept following the ridge downhill to join the Modi Khola at Syauli Bazaar (1140m). The hotels and cafes here suddenly seem quite cosmopolitan. From here on the road becomes the trail. For the next 90 minutes the walking is relatively flat, which after the last 20 days seems distinctly weird. The road follows the river valley through a lovely birch forest and extensive rice terraces to Chimrong and then Lamakhet. It’s another 20 minutes to Birethanti (1000m). The last stretch of dirt road is dusty, rough and rocky, and follows the Modi Khola. We could have caught a taxi from Birethanti to Pokhara for Rs2000 but decided that we would finish the trek the way we started, on our own two legs. It’s a 30-minute walk on the rough road to Naya Pul, where it is a short climb to the road. Taxis and buses to Pokhara are available at Naya Pul well into the night. At Naya Pul the taxis were the same price but we ended up negotiating a price of Rs2500for an old worn out van that could not pull the skin off a rice custard. We wanted the extra room for a young Austrian backpacker, Lilly that we had met a few times on the trail.
It is only 40km to Pokhara but the road in places is so severely potholed that it took nearly two hours to reach the hotel. We may have been a little rude but we quickly paid our porters and headed straight to our room for a hot shower. I must say however that Tika and Krishna despite their inexperience have been a pleasure to travel with. Tika is the one with the get up and go which will make him an excellent porter/guide in the years to come. If anyone is travelling to Nepal I would be happy to give you his contact details.
In short order this afternoon I did manage to have a close shave for Rs200 ($2.50) from an excellent Nepalese barber. It feels good to have a fuzz free face once again. There was also a heap of laundry (Rs150 per kilo) that needed attending to and between us there was 6.5kg of soiled garments. At 5:30 we arrived at the Jiva Spa where we had a 90 minute Swedish massage (Rs2700) to rejuvenate our tired limbs. When the masseuse reached my calves I nearly went through the ceiling. By the end of the 90 minutes I thought that I had been twelve rounds with Rocky Balboa. To finish off our last day of trekking we paid a visit to the Everest Steakhouse for some medium rare eye fillet steak and my first beer.
Sunday 6th November - Perfect Paragliding
Another beautiful day and we do not have to hike anywhere. After paying Shekhar about Rs17000 for the balance of our porter fees and our airline tickets to Kathmandu we needed to take another trip to the ATM for some cash. There is not much point putting anything on the credit card as there is usually a surcharge of 3.5% to 5%. The weather is so perfect that I couldn’t miss the opportunity to go paragliding once again. As a consequence Shekhar has lined up a small company who will pick me up from the hotel at midday.
I arrived back early and to my surprise the paragliding agent was waiting for me. A quick change of clothes and I was whisked off to the office to sign my life away. The cost for a thirty minute flight is Rs9000 ($112) which includes photographs and a short video. Our transport arrived at the Sarangot launch pad about 12:30 and it wasn’t long before my pilot, Rocky from Nepal had me geared up. I think that our timing was perfect as there were less tandem paragliders than normal taking advantage of Pokhara’s great thermals. Our launch was just about perfect and I was soon soaring high above Sarangot. The views of the Himalayan range were of course breathtaking but the patchwork of rice paddies was also great. Rocky gave me a real panoramic flight and took me across the ridge line where I had some great views of the Seti River and new Pokhara. On previous flights the pilots had stuck to the same areas around Sarangot so this was a new experience. All too soon the flight was over as we touched ground on the shoreline of Phewa Lake. After checking his computer Rocky informed me that we had reached an altitude of 1619m and had been airborne for 33 minutes. After picking up my photographs it was back to the hotel and a late lunch with James.
James has been unwell for the last couple of days but he is determined to get a little food down. We settled on an old sandwich bar which served up a tasty ham and cheese roll and a lassi. Afterwards we strolled along the main drag before I left James to attend a 90 minute Yoga class. The female instructor was from Austria and she was quite passionate. The style of yoga is very similar to what I have been doing at the South Bank gym but the session was longer. I managed to accomplish most of the stretches but had to take a couple of short breaks. With the class over and my body stretched to the limits I headed back to the hotel to check up on James. He is still not great but I did manage to coax him out to dinner. The Concerto Restaurant is and old favourite of mine as I enjoyed a couple of meals there previously with Alice. They lived up to expectations and our roast chicken and oven roasted beef were delicious. It was so good that we will be definitely back for more.
Monday 7th November – Time for some UltraLight Flying
At 6:15 I jumped out of bed and hurriedly dressed as I am being picked up soon for my 7:00 appointment with an UltraLight open cockpit flight. I must be coming an adrenalin junkie or a more likely explanation is that I enjoy spending the kid’s inheritance. Seriously, with the great early morning weather, no clouds and fabulous views it was a one off opportunity to experience something different. The cost of a 30 minute flight with a photo and video package is an expensive Rs 21200 ($265).
It didn’t take long to gear me up and make sure that I was nice and warm. I didn’t put on any gloves because I wanted to keep my hands free for taking photographs. An Ultralight (Microlight) is a two-seated small aircraft with powered engine designed to carry no more than two people (pilot and passenger), with a maximum fuel capacity of 90 liters and a total weight of less than 600kg, including fuel and persons onboard. It has an imposed speed limit of less than 130 km/hr. Average speeds are about 80 km/hr. I was really impressed by the speed and the ease of the lift off. My package is called the Glory of Mt. Fishtail and after ten minutes flying we were tantalizing close to this sacred mountain as well as the Annapurnas. I could rave on for ages about how great this flight was but suffice to say it would have been great to book the sixty minute package. Our flight path also took us over Pokhara, Sarangot, Phewa Lake, Peace Pagoda and Devi Falls. All too soon my time was up and we coasted in for an ultra-smooth landing. Hopefully the photos will be a permanent reminder of a great adventure activity.
I was back at the hotel by 8:15 and ready for a decent breakfast. Unfortunately, James is still a bit squeamish and has decided to forego breakfast. After refueling the body I was off on another adventure, this time with Shekhar. I was his pillion passenger on the back of his motorcycle for a trip into the old part of Pokhara where all the residents shop and conduct their business. It is an adventure due to the number of buses, trucks, motorcycles and other mechanized implements of destruction. Our first stop was the bank and I accompanied Shekhar inside. I was amazed by the length of the queues of ordinary citizens who were trying to conduct a transaction. The only time I see queues like this at home is when Aldi have a good sale on or the Boxing Day sales. The Nepalese just wait patiently for their turn to come around. This scene was repeated at other banks around the town. Shekhar seemed to know someone one just about every corner. After finding a store for me where I purchased a knick knack for myself we headed off back to Lakeside and escaped the hustle and bustle of the big smoke. It was certainly a different two hour excursion.
After a late lunch James and I headed off to the Pokhara Immigration Office where we will try and extend our visas for another 15 days. We had completed the necessary documentation on-line but forgot to print a copy of our passports and current visa page. The office closed at 15:00 and we only had 10 minutes to comply with this regulation. Fortunately just around the corner from the office there is a couple of agencies who specialize in filling out the on-line application and printing the necessary documentation. We only the needed the photocopy which set us back a huge Rs20 (25cents). It only took us five minutes so we had a few minutes to spare before closing time. The visa extension costs Rs3200 ($40) which is a cheaper option than a 90 day visa which now costs $US100. Next time we will use the services of the agencies and remove the hassle of doing it ourselves.
With our administrative tasks over we took a 2km walk along the lake front back to our hotel. Another massage was in order so we organized one through Shekhar at the Tranquility Spa. We thought that a pickup had been arranged but I suspect that the reduction in price that we negotiated negated our free ride. In the end we had a ten minute walk to the spa which was okay but not as well laid out as the Jiva Spa. We both had the one hour Swedish massage which for me was excellent. James thought his was a little ordinary. It was around 18:30 and we did not feel like going back to the hotel prior to dinner. We were not flush with cash so on a whim we chose a cheap option called the Machhapuchhre Kitchen. I am a believer in the six degrees of separation as when we sat down at our table we spotted our Austrian friend Lilly who was dining alone. She joined us and within a few minutes our German friend Helge took a smoking table outside. We went out and said hello and had a couple of hugs before he introduced us to his Australian friend Nic. After dinner they joined us at the table and then it got really weird. It turns out that Nic lives in Annie Street at Milton, went to Milton State School and worked at the local IGA and Palace cinemas. He is about 22 and has embarked on a motorcycle adventure that started in Brisbane and finished for the interim in Nepal due to mechanical issues. A couple of Everest beers and we all said goodnight.
Tatopani
Tuesday 1st November – They’re Racing (Tatopani to Shikha – 11km, 1935m)
Of course today is the day where the Australian nation stops to watch the Melbourne Cup. I have by the way asked Alice to place a bet on numbers 9 and 12. You may well ask why these numbers? If you are a fan of rugby league you would know that 12 was the original number for the hooker which has been since superseded by 9. They didn’t call me the Happy Hooker for nothing! We will have to check the results after arriving in Shikha.
If we had decided to trek to Ghorepani then this ascent would make it the biggest of the Annapurna Circuit. We have decided to take it easy by walking to the halfway point at Shikha. After departing Tatopani at 8:45 we headed south for 30 minutes, leaving the road to cross the Kali Gandaki and then the Ghar Khola rivers on high suspension bridges. At Ghar Khola village the trail branches left up a series of stairs. A steep ascent of 380m leads to the Santosh viewpoint and teahouse, atop a rocky spur called Durbin Danda (1555m). From here on the valley opened up and we ascended through terraced fields to the top of Ghara (1780m). The trail then made a gentle ascent across a landslide area to the first houses of Shikha, a large and prosperous Magar village. At midday we crossed a stream and then climbed to Shikha’s stone paved main street. It was a tough ascent but both of us handled it with ease as the altitude is not so debilitating now.
After checking out a couple of lodges we chose the Hotel Arpan which has a triple room with attached bathroom. I negotiated the price down to RS400 and then ordered lunch. The food was good and there was so much that neither of us could finish. The view from the rooftop dining area is superb. You can see the snow-capped peaks in the distance as well as right down the valley to Ghara. The Nepali’s have a big day today and this afternoon they celebrate the second most important festival on their calendar, Tihar. Our porters are disappointed that they are on the trail and will miss the excitement.
Directly opposite our hotel is the Mona Lisa Hotel and it has been invaded by the local population as they gather to celebrate the festival. Young girls are attired in traditional costume and of course are taking selfies. The older women have also dressed up for the occasion and have positioned themselves on the steps. The men have also turned it on and look debonair in their best caps. Someone has set up a large speaker and a soundboard which puts out a big sound, hopefully not into the night. It is a sensational sight as three men are playing traditional drums, the women are chanting or harmonizing to the beat as a small group of men and young girls dance rhythmically in a slow circle. Their delicate hand movements help to tell a traditional story. Judging by some of the laughter the eldest man who appears to have had a skin full of the local Raxi (firewater distilled from rice) is singing a song with ribald lyrics. I don’t know how long the music and dance will last but we feel privileged to be witnessing these festivities. Towards the end of the festivities the men were becoming concerned over the drunken antics of one of the villagers. He was blind drunk and thought he could dance so he kept on joining into the girls dance routine. One guy tried to restrain him as he looked like kicking over the offering plates that were next to the dancers. His name will be mud in the morning.
Wednesday 2nd November – Top of the Hill (Shikha to Ghorepani – 7km, 3000m)
It was a cold night but we both managed to be up by 7:15 for breakfast. The sun is shining which should make it nice and warm later in the day. We got away at 8:15 and immediately started walking uphill. James is in rare form and is powering his way up. My legs are a little tight and in the beginning it was hard yakka. After climbing for 15 minutes we had to drop into the ACAP checkpost before we could continue. From here it’s another 3 hours to Ghorepani. It was still up, up, up as we kept climbing to Phalate (2390m). We passed a large landslide area and then a primary school en-route to Chitre (2420m). There are several trail junctions, but the correct trail almost invariably leads uphill. The large New Dhaulagiri View Hotel is a fine place with sunny garden seating where I stopped for a cup of tea and to admire the stunning views back towards the high peaks.
From Chitre the trail makes a steep ascent for an hour through lovely rhododendron and magnolia forests, interspersed with waterfalls, a few shepherds’ huts and pastures. Even with all this amazing scenery the one thing in your mind is to keep moving up by placing one foot in front of the other. Prior to reaching the first lodges you walk through an entrance portal welcoming you to Ghorepani and Poon Hill. This is a bit of a false hope as you still have to hike up a steep incline for another 15 minutes. The boys were keen to stay at the Super View Hotel and I must say that it would have been a good choice. The only problem is that James and I have become accustomed to having separate rooms (no snoring) with an attached bathroom, glamping Nepal style. They only had one room left and it came with a double bed and I am sure neither of us wanted to go there. I climbed the next set of stairs and the Hill Top Lodge where I have stayed twice before was able to accommodate us.
After settling in I went back down the steep flight of steps and escorted James up to our lodging. The porters did not have to wait long for their Dal Baht lunch and they gave it a thumbs up. Tika thinks that this lodge on the strength of his lunch is better than Super View. James had pizza which he thought was below par but my Vege Burger rated high on the David scale. Afterwards we took a stroll down in the village and bought some Pringles and some Marpha Apple Brandy. Back up at our lodge we decided to take advantage of the sunny patio that has amazing views of Dhaulagiri. It doesn’t get much better than this a few snacks, great company and a view to die for. There was a little afternoon cloud about so we have decided not to hike up to Poon Hill for the sunset. We will wait and see what the morning brings and if there are no clouds we will set off at 5:00.
Inside the lodge is nice and cozy due to the wood fired stove that pumps out some amazing heat. Dinner has been ordered for 18:30 and afterwards we will hit the sack for hopefully an early start.
Of course today is the day where the Australian nation stops to watch the Melbourne Cup. I have by the way asked Alice to place a bet on numbers 9 and 12. You may well ask why these numbers? If you are a fan of rugby league you would know that 12 was the original number for the hooker which has been since superseded by 9. They didn’t call me the Happy Hooker for nothing! We will have to check the results after arriving in Shikha.
If we had decided to trek to Ghorepani then this ascent would make it the biggest of the Annapurna Circuit. We have decided to take it easy by walking to the halfway point at Shikha. After departing Tatopani at 8:45 we headed south for 30 minutes, leaving the road to cross the Kali Gandaki and then the Ghar Khola rivers on high suspension bridges. At Ghar Khola village the trail branches left up a series of stairs. A steep ascent of 380m leads to the Santosh viewpoint and teahouse, atop a rocky spur called Durbin Danda (1555m). From here on the valley opened up and we ascended through terraced fields to the top of Ghara (1780m). The trail then made a gentle ascent across a landslide area to the first houses of Shikha, a large and prosperous Magar village. At midday we crossed a stream and then climbed to Shikha’s stone paved main street. It was a tough ascent but both of us handled it with ease as the altitude is not so debilitating now.
After checking out a couple of lodges we chose the Hotel Arpan which has a triple room with attached bathroom. I negotiated the price down to RS400 and then ordered lunch. The food was good and there was so much that neither of us could finish. The view from the rooftop dining area is superb. You can see the snow-capped peaks in the distance as well as right down the valley to Ghara. The Nepali’s have a big day today and this afternoon they celebrate the second most important festival on their calendar, Tihar. Our porters are disappointed that they are on the trail and will miss the excitement.
Directly opposite our hotel is the Mona Lisa Hotel and it has been invaded by the local population as they gather to celebrate the festival. Young girls are attired in traditional costume and of course are taking selfies. The older women have also dressed up for the occasion and have positioned themselves on the steps. The men have also turned it on and look debonair in their best caps. Someone has set up a large speaker and a soundboard which puts out a big sound, hopefully not into the night. It is a sensational sight as three men are playing traditional drums, the women are chanting or harmonizing to the beat as a small group of men and young girls dance rhythmically in a slow circle. Their delicate hand movements help to tell a traditional story. Judging by some of the laughter the eldest man who appears to have had a skin full of the local Raxi (firewater distilled from rice) is singing a song with ribald lyrics. I don’t know how long the music and dance will last but we feel privileged to be witnessing these festivities. Towards the end of the festivities the men were becoming concerned over the drunken antics of one of the villagers. He was blind drunk and thought he could dance so he kept on joining into the girls dance routine. One guy tried to restrain him as he looked like kicking over the offering plates that were next to the dancers. His name will be mud in the morning.
Wednesday 2nd November – Top of the Hill (Shikha to Ghorepani – 7km, 3000m)
It was a cold night but we both managed to be up by 7:15 for breakfast. The sun is shining which should make it nice and warm later in the day. We got away at 8:15 and immediately started walking uphill. James is in rare form and is powering his way up. My legs are a little tight and in the beginning it was hard yakka. After climbing for 15 minutes we had to drop into the ACAP checkpost before we could continue. From here it’s another 3 hours to Ghorepani. It was still up, up, up as we kept climbing to Phalate (2390m). We passed a large landslide area and then a primary school en-route to Chitre (2420m). There are several trail junctions, but the correct trail almost invariably leads uphill. The large New Dhaulagiri View Hotel is a fine place with sunny garden seating where I stopped for a cup of tea and to admire the stunning views back towards the high peaks.
From Chitre the trail makes a steep ascent for an hour through lovely rhododendron and magnolia forests, interspersed with waterfalls, a few shepherds’ huts and pastures. Even with all this amazing scenery the one thing in your mind is to keep moving up by placing one foot in front of the other. Prior to reaching the first lodges you walk through an entrance portal welcoming you to Ghorepani and Poon Hill. This is a bit of a false hope as you still have to hike up a steep incline for another 15 minutes. The boys were keen to stay at the Super View Hotel and I must say that it would have been a good choice. The only problem is that James and I have become accustomed to having separate rooms (no snoring) with an attached bathroom, glamping Nepal style. They only had one room left and it came with a double bed and I am sure neither of us wanted to go there. I climbed the next set of stairs and the Hill Top Lodge where I have stayed twice before was able to accommodate us.
After settling in I went back down the steep flight of steps and escorted James up to our lodging. The porters did not have to wait long for their Dal Baht lunch and they gave it a thumbs up. Tika thinks that this lodge on the strength of his lunch is better than Super View. James had pizza which he thought was below par but my Vege Burger rated high on the David scale. Afterwards we took a stroll down in the village and bought some Pringles and some Marpha Apple Brandy. Back up at our lodge we decided to take advantage of the sunny patio that has amazing views of Dhaulagiri. It doesn’t get much better than this a few snacks, great company and a view to die for. There was a little afternoon cloud about so we have decided not to hike up to Poon Hill for the sunset. We will wait and see what the morning brings and if there are no clouds we will set off at 5:00.
Inside the lodge is nice and cozy due to the wood fired stove that pumps out some amazing heat. Dinner has been ordered for 18:30 and afterwards we will hit the sack for hopefully an early start.
Sunday, November 6, 2016
Nepal and a Question of Toilet Seats
Friday 28th October – She’ll Be Apples (Kagbeni to Marpha – 15km, 2670m)
During the night I had an epiphany as I remembered that I inadvertently had left my good wet weather trousers at the Bob Marley Hotel. I can kiss them goodbye and perhaps they will go up in smoke. The Nepali film crew was a rowdy bunch and unfortunately they were placed next to James and me. When they get together as a group they get boisterous and try to outdo each other. This morning the noise started at 5:00 and did not let up. We wanted an early start from Kagbeni to avoid the winds that whistle up the valley after 11:00 but that was a no go. After ordering breakfast for 7:00 it did not arrive until 7:45. I guess it is three strikes and you’re out. We scoffed down what was a good breakfast and managed to hit the trail just after 8:00.
From Kagbeni the trail quickly joins the road from Muktinath and continues through desert scenery to Chhancha Lhumba, better known as Eklai Bhatti (‘alone hotel’). A few groups stopped here for a refreshment break but we continued on towards Jomson. We did have some great views of Nilgiri another of the big Himalayan peaks. A little past the village there was an air of festivity as it turned out that the road was blocked by an excavator doing repair work to the road. The Nepali’s were having a great time just clowning around and of course taking selfies. The good news for us was that it meant less dust at least for a short time. One other thing I did notice was that the pillion passenger on just about every motorcycle was engrossed in taking selfies on their mobile phones. The trail continued to follow the road through the stony river valley, eventually short-cutting along the riverbed to reach the entrance to Jomsom. It wasn’t much of a shortcut as James wrenched his knee on the loose stones.
Straddling the Kali Gandaki, Jomsom (2760m), or more correctly Dzongsam (New Fort), is the region’s administrative headquarters, home to bureaucrats, military personnel, merchants and jeep owners. It’s a scruffy, fairly charmless place, mainly of interest to those who need to catch an early morning flight or change some money. Since my last visit in 2010 it has degenerated further and I’m glad we decided not to stay here. Nevertheless we needed to have our TIMS permit checked and also James needed to give his knee a rest. We feasted on a stale chocolate croissant and I had a cup of tea. By the time we exited Jomson at 11:30 the dreaded wind was blowing its guts out.
Since my last trek the trail is now completely different as a result of the road building and quarrying of the river gravel. Every time a vehicle passed us and there were plenty of them we were engulfed in a cloud of dust. After 45 minutes I decided to take an alternative route up a foot trail detours right to Syang (2800m), where the interesting and picturesque old town as well as a few monasteries. It was definitely worth the effort and the views were outstanding. At the southern end of Syang, I could see James and the porters swallowing dust on the road below. After descending I rejoined the road, passed James and the porters and followed it all the way to Marpha. Tika caught up with me and we crossed the Pankya Khola to enter at the northern end of town.
Marpha is a large and well-maintained Thakali village and has long been a favourite amongst trekkers. It has kept its traditional narrow paved alleys and passageways and an extensive drainage system flows under the flagstone-paved street. Fortunately the road bypasses Marpha and has not destroyed the atmosphere of the town. Impressive kanis mark both ends of town.
Our job was to find some accommodation and the first few places we tried were all full. We backtracked and eventually settled on the Sunrise Hotel which had two double rooms for RS200 each. After settling in we had a late lunch and tried to catch up on our emails and administrative tasks. The Wi-Fi is a bit slow but I did manage to logon and send a few emails. I delayed making a Skype call to Alice as I know she does not like being interrupted when Family Feud is on. Unfortunately when I did call she was just about to enter the Lyric Theatre with her good friend Carina to watch a performance of Singing in the Rain. How silly of me to forget! I had a few dirty clothes and for RS200 a local lady hand washed my clothes for me. Unfortunately, the sun has disappeared and they are still a bit damp. Hopefully they will dry a little more overnight but given how cold it is that is wishful thinking. I finished the night off with an alcoholic drink which was Marpha’s famous apple brandy.
Saturday 29th October – Road Less Travelled (Marpha to Kalopani – 19km, 2535m)
Well my clothes are dry and we have demolished our omelets for breakfast so we are nearly to depart almost. Prior to hitting the trail, oops I meant road I had to purchase an item from the lady who washed my clothes yesterday. In the end I ended up with a hand platted Tibetan belt for RS250. Our next stop was the safe water station where we refilled our plastic bottles before heading out of Marpha at 8:15. The road continues south for 90 minutes directly to Tukuche but to the chagrin of our porters we took the alternative east-bank trail via Chhairo and Chimang. I had to explain to them that if we wanted to walk the dusty road we would have taken the bus. This way we avoided the road traffic and get great views of Dhaulagiri en route. Across the bridge on the east side of the river, Chhairo is a Tibetan refugee settlement of around 40 houses. This was definitely the best option as we walked past babbling brooks, apple orchards and pine forest and above all no dust.
I wanted to visit the traditional village of Chimang and at the turn off I said farewell to James whom I will catch up with in Tukuche. I followed the signs left to Chimang, climbed to a meadow and a small waterfall and continued uphill, curving around fields of apples and corn to Chimang (2870m) which is perched on a ridge. The little-visited village offers some of the best views you’ll get of Dhaulagiri and is worth some exploring. Unfortunately for me there was some cloud cover which inhibited the view. It was time to descend via a little used road on the far side of the ridge to the river far below. After crossing a bridge I rejoined the main road into Tukuche. There was a trail that meandered above the road but it was far easier to just stay on the road and swallow a little dust.
James was waiting for me at a small café on the outskirts of the village. Fortunately he had been waiting for only 20 minutes which gave me time for a quick cup of tea. After exiting Tukuche we avoided the road by taking short cuts across the riverside gravel bars. It was a pity when we had to head back on the road and tussle with the motorcycles, buses and above all the wind which has been blowing straight into our faces since 10:00. We arrived Larjung just before midday and decided to take lunch of noodle soup. Our plan was to stay the night here but James is feeling good so we will kick onto Kalopani.
Just prior to 13:00 we departed from Larjung and joined the road as it swung into the wide mouth of the Ghatta Khola. The road bridge is a long distance upstream so we decided to save some time by cutting straight across the river. There were no temporary bridges so we had to remove our boots and ford the fast flowing but shallow river. James with his dodgy ankles gave a good impression of a gypsy tap as he tried to maintain his footing on the submerged rocks. The trail eventually crosses the Kali Gandaki on a high suspension bridge and climbs through fir, juniper and cypress trees to descend to Kokhethati. It then continues south to Dhampu, crossing the Kali Gandaki to arrive in Kalopani. I would have to say that this section is one of the more pleasurable to trek on. The only downside today has been the wind and the cloud that has obscured the high peaks. On the last section there was a little sprinkle of rain so we played it safe and pulled out our ponchos.
Around 15:00 we arrived at Kalopani and headed straight for the upmarket See You Lodge where I had stayed in 2010. There are a couple of groups staying tonight so we were lucky enough to snag a decent room each that came with an attached bathroom. I don’t know what the rate is but the cost will be worth it just to enjoy the privacy of my own toilet. I wasted no time in having a hot solar shower and was pleasantly surprised to find a folded towel on my bed. Speaking of beds I am looking forward to relaxing in my ¾ double bed tonight. We have both ordered the sizzling Yak steaks for dinner and I may just wash that down with an apple brandy.
Sunday 30th October – GoCard not Accepted (Kalopani to Tatopani – 30km, 1200m)
We ordered breakfast for 7:00 and despite the large group who were in front of us it was served in a timely manner. They were probably the best fried eggs we have had so far on this trip. James had to take care of a little business so I went to the rooftop and took some pictures of Dhaulagiri which today is brilliant in the clear blue sky. By 8:15 we were strolling out of Kalopani and heading into the village of Lete which is basically next. It is a little like Coolangatta and Tweed Heads but on a significantly smaller scale. The only high rises here are the peaks. As a side note if you trek in this area and have the time it would be worth spending an extra night at Kalopani and then do a side trip to Titi Lake where you will get fantastic views of Nilgiri and Dhaulagiri Icefall.
There is an option to travel on a trail between Kalopani and Ghasa but that meant walking back to access it. We decided to take the road option as James’ knee is giving him curry. After departing Lete we had a small respite from the road by taking a trail on a grassy knoll. The problem was that the trail at the end of the knoll was in a state of disrepair due to a landside. The steep descent down to the road was quite dangerous and any slip would have resulted in a serious injury. After crossing a suspension bridge it was back to the road all the way to Ghasa. It was only for an hour and thankfully there was a lull in the traffic. We did see a small troop of Grey Langur Monkeys that briefly entertained us with their antics. I arrived Ghasa at 10:15 and checked-in at the TIMS post and then waited for James whose knee is really playing up.
Earlier on we made the decision for him and the two porters to catch the bus for the 18km trip to Ghasa but first we had to get to the bus park. Whilst I checked James’ TIMS card in, I sent him scurrying downhill for the bus. There were a couple of girls in front of him but he put on a rare burst of speed and passed them. We didn’t want to miss out on a seat on the bus. Meanwhile up at the bus park I had purchased three tickets (RS1080), the Go-Card was no use here as it is a cash only business. James took the best seat on the bus which is the middle of the back seat. By all reports it was an unpleasant journey with lots of bumps, jolts and jam packed with Nepali passengers.
Meanwhile I said farewell and at 10:30 started walking down the road. Fifteen minutes later just south of the Eagle’s Nest Guest House I crossed a suspension footbridge and followed the old mule caravan trail down the eastern side of the valley. The mule track climbs the rocky cliffside to a ridge and then a long descent on steps past a few neglected teahouses to a bridge at Kopchepani. It was only 11:45 so I thought I would continue for another 45 minutes before taking a break for lunch. The only problem with this idea was there were no more villages in this section, just isolated farmhouses with the obligatory water buffalo. I ended up stopping under a shady tree and had a half of a granola bar and most of my water. During my 25 minute break I did not see a solitary person, oh what bliss.
This section takes a little longer but you are rewarded with great views, strands of bamboo, waterfalls and the odd trekker. The real bonus is that you are not getting covered in dust from the road traffic. After my break I continued down the east bank from Kopchepani to Garpar. It was nearly 14:00 and this little village had a small restaurant and a sign offering freshly squeezed orange juice. I couldn’t resist and ordered some vegetable noodle soup, litre of water and the O.J (RS390). I met up with a young Swiss couple and we continued trekking down the east bank. I could see the village of Dana on the opposite bank but the trail continued further down. Eventually I left the trail and bid the Swiss farewell. From where I crossed over it was only a 25 minute walk into Tatopani. It is definitely the best way if you are going to walk this section.
The good thing about James catching the bus is that he already has booked my room with attached bathroom and broken toilet seat. It seems every western toilet in Nepal has a broken seat. I suppose that’s what happens when you are used to squatting. As I walked into Tatopani at 15:30 I could see James waiting for me outside the Himalayan Hotel. After a short rest I was ready to join James for a trip to Tatopani’s (it means hot water) famous hot springs. There was already a big crowd of westerners and Nepali luxuriating in the water but James and I had no hesitation in parting with RS150 ($1.88) for the entrance fee. We found a vacant section and then lowered ourselves slowly into the piping hot water. It was pure bliss. You can purchase a bottle of beer, no glass and sip it while sitting in the water. The thought of a beer in this environment was very appealing however I stayed strong to my commitment in not having a beer or a shave until reaching Pokhara. It was nearly 18:00 when we emerged from the pool with skin the texture of old prunes.
Back at the hotel we were so relaxed that we had to be roused for dinner. At this altitude the nights are a lot warmer so it was a real pleasure to go down to the dining room clothed in shorts and a tee-shirt. There are plenty of items on the menu to choose from but I settled on a bean and cheese burrito and pizza for James. With all that exercise today both of us were ready for yet another early night.
During the night I had an epiphany as I remembered that I inadvertently had left my good wet weather trousers at the Bob Marley Hotel. I can kiss them goodbye and perhaps they will go up in smoke. The Nepali film crew was a rowdy bunch and unfortunately they were placed next to James and me. When they get together as a group they get boisterous and try to outdo each other. This morning the noise started at 5:00 and did not let up. We wanted an early start from Kagbeni to avoid the winds that whistle up the valley after 11:00 but that was a no go. After ordering breakfast for 7:00 it did not arrive until 7:45. I guess it is three strikes and you’re out. We scoffed down what was a good breakfast and managed to hit the trail just after 8:00.
From Kagbeni the trail quickly joins the road from Muktinath and continues through desert scenery to Chhancha Lhumba, better known as Eklai Bhatti (‘alone hotel’). A few groups stopped here for a refreshment break but we continued on towards Jomson. We did have some great views of Nilgiri another of the big Himalayan peaks. A little past the village there was an air of festivity as it turned out that the road was blocked by an excavator doing repair work to the road. The Nepali’s were having a great time just clowning around and of course taking selfies. The good news for us was that it meant less dust at least for a short time. One other thing I did notice was that the pillion passenger on just about every motorcycle was engrossed in taking selfies on their mobile phones. The trail continued to follow the road through the stony river valley, eventually short-cutting along the riverbed to reach the entrance to Jomsom. It wasn’t much of a shortcut as James wrenched his knee on the loose stones.
Straddling the Kali Gandaki, Jomsom (2760m), or more correctly Dzongsam (New Fort), is the region’s administrative headquarters, home to bureaucrats, military personnel, merchants and jeep owners. It’s a scruffy, fairly charmless place, mainly of interest to those who need to catch an early morning flight or change some money. Since my last visit in 2010 it has degenerated further and I’m glad we decided not to stay here. Nevertheless we needed to have our TIMS permit checked and also James needed to give his knee a rest. We feasted on a stale chocolate croissant and I had a cup of tea. By the time we exited Jomson at 11:30 the dreaded wind was blowing its guts out.
Since my last trek the trail is now completely different as a result of the road building and quarrying of the river gravel. Every time a vehicle passed us and there were plenty of them we were engulfed in a cloud of dust. After 45 minutes I decided to take an alternative route up a foot trail detours right to Syang (2800m), where the interesting and picturesque old town as well as a few monasteries. It was definitely worth the effort and the views were outstanding. At the southern end of Syang, I could see James and the porters swallowing dust on the road below. After descending I rejoined the road, passed James and the porters and followed it all the way to Marpha. Tika caught up with me and we crossed the Pankya Khola to enter at the northern end of town.
Marpha is a large and well-maintained Thakali village and has long been a favourite amongst trekkers. It has kept its traditional narrow paved alleys and passageways and an extensive drainage system flows under the flagstone-paved street. Fortunately the road bypasses Marpha and has not destroyed the atmosphere of the town. Impressive kanis mark both ends of town.
Our job was to find some accommodation and the first few places we tried were all full. We backtracked and eventually settled on the Sunrise Hotel which had two double rooms for RS200 each. After settling in we had a late lunch and tried to catch up on our emails and administrative tasks. The Wi-Fi is a bit slow but I did manage to logon and send a few emails. I delayed making a Skype call to Alice as I know she does not like being interrupted when Family Feud is on. Unfortunately when I did call she was just about to enter the Lyric Theatre with her good friend Carina to watch a performance of Singing in the Rain. How silly of me to forget! I had a few dirty clothes and for RS200 a local lady hand washed my clothes for me. Unfortunately, the sun has disappeared and they are still a bit damp. Hopefully they will dry a little more overnight but given how cold it is that is wishful thinking. I finished the night off with an alcoholic drink which was Marpha’s famous apple brandy.
Saturday 29th October – Road Less Travelled (Marpha to Kalopani – 19km, 2535m)
Well my clothes are dry and we have demolished our omelets for breakfast so we are nearly to depart almost. Prior to hitting the trail, oops I meant road I had to purchase an item from the lady who washed my clothes yesterday. In the end I ended up with a hand platted Tibetan belt for RS250. Our next stop was the safe water station where we refilled our plastic bottles before heading out of Marpha at 8:15. The road continues south for 90 minutes directly to Tukuche but to the chagrin of our porters we took the alternative east-bank trail via Chhairo and Chimang. I had to explain to them that if we wanted to walk the dusty road we would have taken the bus. This way we avoided the road traffic and get great views of Dhaulagiri en route. Across the bridge on the east side of the river, Chhairo is a Tibetan refugee settlement of around 40 houses. This was definitely the best option as we walked past babbling brooks, apple orchards and pine forest and above all no dust.
I wanted to visit the traditional village of Chimang and at the turn off I said farewell to James whom I will catch up with in Tukuche. I followed the signs left to Chimang, climbed to a meadow and a small waterfall and continued uphill, curving around fields of apples and corn to Chimang (2870m) which is perched on a ridge. The little-visited village offers some of the best views you’ll get of Dhaulagiri and is worth some exploring. Unfortunately for me there was some cloud cover which inhibited the view. It was time to descend via a little used road on the far side of the ridge to the river far below. After crossing a bridge I rejoined the main road into Tukuche. There was a trail that meandered above the road but it was far easier to just stay on the road and swallow a little dust.
James was waiting for me at a small café on the outskirts of the village. Fortunately he had been waiting for only 20 minutes which gave me time for a quick cup of tea. After exiting Tukuche we avoided the road by taking short cuts across the riverside gravel bars. It was a pity when we had to head back on the road and tussle with the motorcycles, buses and above all the wind which has been blowing straight into our faces since 10:00. We arrived Larjung just before midday and decided to take lunch of noodle soup. Our plan was to stay the night here but James is feeling good so we will kick onto Kalopani.
Just prior to 13:00 we departed from Larjung and joined the road as it swung into the wide mouth of the Ghatta Khola. The road bridge is a long distance upstream so we decided to save some time by cutting straight across the river. There were no temporary bridges so we had to remove our boots and ford the fast flowing but shallow river. James with his dodgy ankles gave a good impression of a gypsy tap as he tried to maintain his footing on the submerged rocks. The trail eventually crosses the Kali Gandaki on a high suspension bridge and climbs through fir, juniper and cypress trees to descend to Kokhethati. It then continues south to Dhampu, crossing the Kali Gandaki to arrive in Kalopani. I would have to say that this section is one of the more pleasurable to trek on. The only downside today has been the wind and the cloud that has obscured the high peaks. On the last section there was a little sprinkle of rain so we played it safe and pulled out our ponchos.
Around 15:00 we arrived at Kalopani and headed straight for the upmarket See You Lodge where I had stayed in 2010. There are a couple of groups staying tonight so we were lucky enough to snag a decent room each that came with an attached bathroom. I don’t know what the rate is but the cost will be worth it just to enjoy the privacy of my own toilet. I wasted no time in having a hot solar shower and was pleasantly surprised to find a folded towel on my bed. Speaking of beds I am looking forward to relaxing in my ¾ double bed tonight. We have both ordered the sizzling Yak steaks for dinner and I may just wash that down with an apple brandy.
Sunday 30th October – GoCard not Accepted (Kalopani to Tatopani – 30km, 1200m)
We ordered breakfast for 7:00 and despite the large group who were in front of us it was served in a timely manner. They were probably the best fried eggs we have had so far on this trip. James had to take care of a little business so I went to the rooftop and took some pictures of Dhaulagiri which today is brilliant in the clear blue sky. By 8:15 we were strolling out of Kalopani and heading into the village of Lete which is basically next. It is a little like Coolangatta and Tweed Heads but on a significantly smaller scale. The only high rises here are the peaks. As a side note if you trek in this area and have the time it would be worth spending an extra night at Kalopani and then do a side trip to Titi Lake where you will get fantastic views of Nilgiri and Dhaulagiri Icefall.
There is an option to travel on a trail between Kalopani and Ghasa but that meant walking back to access it. We decided to take the road option as James’ knee is giving him curry. After departing Lete we had a small respite from the road by taking a trail on a grassy knoll. The problem was that the trail at the end of the knoll was in a state of disrepair due to a landside. The steep descent down to the road was quite dangerous and any slip would have resulted in a serious injury. After crossing a suspension bridge it was back to the road all the way to Ghasa. It was only for an hour and thankfully there was a lull in the traffic. We did see a small troop of Grey Langur Monkeys that briefly entertained us with their antics. I arrived Ghasa at 10:15 and checked-in at the TIMS post and then waited for James whose knee is really playing up.
Earlier on we made the decision for him and the two porters to catch the bus for the 18km trip to Ghasa but first we had to get to the bus park. Whilst I checked James’ TIMS card in, I sent him scurrying downhill for the bus. There were a couple of girls in front of him but he put on a rare burst of speed and passed them. We didn’t want to miss out on a seat on the bus. Meanwhile up at the bus park I had purchased three tickets (RS1080), the Go-Card was no use here as it is a cash only business. James took the best seat on the bus which is the middle of the back seat. By all reports it was an unpleasant journey with lots of bumps, jolts and jam packed with Nepali passengers.
Meanwhile I said farewell and at 10:30 started walking down the road. Fifteen minutes later just south of the Eagle’s Nest Guest House I crossed a suspension footbridge and followed the old mule caravan trail down the eastern side of the valley. The mule track climbs the rocky cliffside to a ridge and then a long descent on steps past a few neglected teahouses to a bridge at Kopchepani. It was only 11:45 so I thought I would continue for another 45 minutes before taking a break for lunch. The only problem with this idea was there were no more villages in this section, just isolated farmhouses with the obligatory water buffalo. I ended up stopping under a shady tree and had a half of a granola bar and most of my water. During my 25 minute break I did not see a solitary person, oh what bliss.
This section takes a little longer but you are rewarded with great views, strands of bamboo, waterfalls and the odd trekker. The real bonus is that you are not getting covered in dust from the road traffic. After my break I continued down the east bank from Kopchepani to Garpar. It was nearly 14:00 and this little village had a small restaurant and a sign offering freshly squeezed orange juice. I couldn’t resist and ordered some vegetable noodle soup, litre of water and the O.J (RS390). I met up with a young Swiss couple and we continued trekking down the east bank. I could see the village of Dana on the opposite bank but the trail continued further down. Eventually I left the trail and bid the Swiss farewell. From where I crossed over it was only a 25 minute walk into Tatopani. It is definitely the best way if you are going to walk this section.
The good thing about James catching the bus is that he already has booked my room with attached bathroom and broken toilet seat. It seems every western toilet in Nepal has a broken seat. I suppose that’s what happens when you are used to squatting. As I walked into Tatopani at 15:30 I could see James waiting for me outside the Himalayan Hotel. After a short rest I was ready to join James for a trip to Tatopani’s (it means hot water) famous hot springs. There was already a big crowd of westerners and Nepali luxuriating in the water but James and I had no hesitation in parting with RS150 ($1.88) for the entrance fee. We found a vacant section and then lowered ourselves slowly into the piping hot water. It was pure bliss. You can purchase a bottle of beer, no glass and sip it while sitting in the water. The thought of a beer in this environment was very appealing however I stayed strong to my commitment in not having a beer or a shave until reaching Pokhara. It was nearly 18:00 when we emerged from the pool with skin the texture of old prunes.
Back at the hotel we were so relaxed that we had to be roused for dinner. At this altitude the nights are a lot warmer so it was a real pleasure to go down to the dining room clothed in shorts and a tee-shirt. There are plenty of items on the menu to choose from but I settled on a bean and cheese burrito and pizza for James. With all that exercise today both of us were ready for yet another early night.
Root, Rock, Reggae.
Monday 24th October – Shopping Spree ( Bragha to Ledtar – 12km, 4200m)
Despite the punishment my legs received yesterday they feel surprisingly good. After breakfast we hit the trail at 8:30 and thirty minutes later we cruised into Manang. This thriving metropolis is the administrative hub for the region. It is also the last place that you can purchase those forgotten items you need for going over the high pass, Thorung La. We purchased a few items including beanies, sunglasses, batteries and then went to fill our bottles at the safe water station. Our last task was to check-in at the TIMS office. We finally departed Manang at 9:45 which was a little behind schedule. The trail in this section is a steady uphill climb and you gain about 500m in altitude. The weather is again perfect, not a cloud in the sky. It wasn’t long before we stripped down to our shorts and T-shirts. The trail climbs to the small village of Gunsang (3920m). With good accommodation and fine views of Annapurna II and IV, Gunsang makes a lovely tea break which we took at 11:30 at the simple Chullu West Hotel. The hotel is owned by a European woman and her female Nepali partner and they served us up some delicious lemon muffins.
Time to get moving as our plan is to have a late lunch at Yak Kharka which in the end took us another 1.75 hours. The good news was that this section was relatively easy. Just prior to Yak Kharka we were lucky enough to spot a pair of Himalayan deer grazing on a ridge high above us. We would have had a porter revolt if we had kept on walking so we took lunch as planned much to the satisfaction of the boys. It was 14:20 when we set off on our last leg to Letdar. It was another hour to travel and another 200m in altitude which should stand us in good stead for tomorrow. The Hotel Snowland where we wanted to stay had only one room left so I continued down the road. At the Hotel Churi Lattar I secured two rooms for RS200 each and then waited a few minutes for James to arrive.
After depositing our bags in the rooms it was time for another acclimatization walk. We found a bit of a goat track and climbed up for a 100 metres before James headed back down. I continued on for a little longer and had a great view of Chulu West. I met a couple of guys who were going to scale this 6500m peak in a few days time. I’m certainly not in that league. By the time I got back to the hotel it was in shadow and some thick clouds were rolling in. We will have to wait to see what tomorrow brings weather wise. Tonight will be a Samoan shower as there is no hot water available here. It reminds me of the old trekking days. It is pretty cold in the dining room and everybody is crowded around the wood fired stove trying to suck in some heat. Once dinner is over we will be heading to the warmth of our sleeping bags and as a consequence it will be an early night.
Tuesday 25th October – Going Up (Ledtar to High Camp – 7km, 4850m)
It was a cold last night but I did manage to get a good sleep despite it being interrupted by a couple of code yellows. On one of my nocturnal visits at 3:00 the heavens were ablaze in a sea of stars. Another trekkers breakfast that we did not have to hurry due to the short day ahead. We finally moved into gear and hit the trail at 8:15. From Letdar the trail continues to climb along the east bank of the Jarsang Khola, then descends and crosses the stream on a wooden bridge at 4310m. We made a short ascent to a collection of prayer flags which had us both gasping for air and then to the Deurali Teahouse. It is run by an irascible couple who know how to charge for a cup of tea. I couldn’t resist the urge to purchase a couple of Mars Bars and Snickers for our porters. The sugar hit was just what we needed and we strode out on a narrow trail across an exposed slope that climbs to Thorung Phedi (4540m). It is a desolate rock-strewn meadow surrounded by vertical cliffs.
I arrived just prior to 11:00 and decided to slog up the last few hundred metres to the High Camp. My reasoning was to ensure that we secured a room for the night. At over 4600m it really zapped me. On this occasion I found that my legs were burning from the strain and I had to make frequent stops to catch my breath. Nevertheless I did manage to make this arduous climb in 45 minutes. Just prior to reaching the camp I caught up with the slow but resilient trio from Calcutta. I secured our room and then decided to take an early lunch while I waited for the rest of the team to crest the ridge. James arrived an hour later and looked done in. He really was in need of a short rest and some fuel to regain his equilibrium.
Whilst he was taking lunch I hiked up to the view point with my other buddie, Tassie. On the way up I met my Swedish admirer and her new travelling companions from the Netherlands. The height at the view point is 4877m which means that you are close to all the peaks. The landscape is like being on the moon with lots of rocks and maybe a few tufts of grass. Tassie enjoyed the serenity of the occasion as well as the stupendous views. The Annapurna Range looks magnificent as the wind whips the snow from the peaks. The Thorong High Camp View Hotel has a real Tibetan feel right down to the furnishings and the ethnicity of the staff. Once James recovered he also hiked up to the view point and is now ready for the ultimate challenge, the high pass. The rest of the day was spent keeping ourselves warm and preparing for an early start in the morning. The early start also means that before you head off to bed you have to settle your account.
Wednesday 26th October – Going Down (High Camp to Muktinath – 14km, 3800m)
I had a bit of a broken sleep and James reckons he did to. It is a little hard to believe as he was certainly cutting a lot of wood. We both woke up at 4:15 and all we had to do was put on our boots. It was so cold that we slept with our trekking clothes on. I had a cup of tea and we both ordered some boiled eggs and chapatti for the trip ahead. It was still dark when we headed off at 5:00 into the unknown. Thanks to Barry Ingham’s head torch I was able to avoid falling over the edge. It was bitterly cold, so cold in fact that the water in my backpack froze. My cheap gloves let me down big time as they could not stop the cold from freezing my fingers. Since my last trek over the pass in 2012 the trail has been significantly upgraded. Don’t get me wrong, I still struggled in this rarified air to reach the pass at 5416m. Every 20 metres or so I needed to stop and catch my breath. The trick is not to linger and get moving again as quickly as possible. I thought I was moving slowly but I reached the Thorung La pass at 7:15 (2.25hrs) which was pretty good going.
The wide Thorung La with its traditional chorten, prayer flags and stone cairn, is at an elevation of 5416m. The views from the trail, and from the pass itself, are outstanding. You can see the long Great Barrier ridge, which separates the drier, Tibet-like region of Manang from the rest of Nepal, as well as (to the south) the Annapurnas and Gangapurna. Whilst I was waiting for James I took refuge in the small stone building with earthen floors. The owner makes a decent living dispensing piping hot tea for RS200 a small cup. It was just what I needed and after 20 minutes of vigorous rubbing I had restored some feeling to my fingers. I did brave the elements to take a few pictures for posterity. On my last visit my battery froze and I had no proof of my accomplishment. At 8:30 James sauntered in with a tale of woe to be told. By the time he had reached the Yakawa Thorung Ri teashop at 5030m he was feeling nauseous and suffering from a bad headache. The altitude can impact on you at any time. He had two choices either walk back down and return to Pokhara or continue the journey. He chose the latter but decided to use public transport. Even though he was suffering he managed to hire a pony and barter the price down to RS3000. By the time he alighted the pony express his quads were shaking uncontrollably and the poor pony had a bowed back.
When he had recovered sufficiently we took a few more obligatory photos and then started our assault on the tough 1800m descent to Muktinath. As usual I raced ahead and stopped when I found a rare flat spot that was in the sun. It was the perfect place to wolf down our boiled eggs. There were a few people in front of us so I left James to his own world of pain that was to follow. My goal was to reach Muktinath and find some lodging for tonight. The scenery on this side of the pass is bleak, treeless and rocky. This section would have to be the most torturous of the whole circuit. There is a lot of loose gravel which can cause you to slip due to the steep descent. I slipped a few times but was lucky enough not to do any damage.
After the worst of it I stopped for a cup of tea at one of the lodges at Chabarbu. From here it was a brisk one hour walk, still downhill to Muktinath. On the outskirts there is a Hindu Temple that attracts devotees from India and Nepal. It is a strange sight watching elderly Indians gingerly making their way up the steep incline. Some like james hitch a ride on a pony for their pilgrimage to this sacred temple. I had sent the boys ahead to find us a room and I met them just as I entered Muktinath. They have chosen the Bob Marley Hotel, yes Bob Marley. There was only one room left and on inspection I thought it would suit us perfectly.
The porters brought our bags in and even though it was only 12:30 I headed straight to the shower room. It was just hot enough to wash away two days worth of grime and sweat. I then took a seat on the balcony where I would be in a good position to spot James trudging up the dusty road. Lunch came and went and after an hour there was still no sign of him. Tika went for a walk to the outskirts of the village but there was no sign of him. I was starting to get worried so I asked a trekker who had just arrived if he had seen a large man wearing black. To my relief he replied in the affirmative and said he was about 30 minutes away. Tika went out to meet him and told him the name of our hotel. When he pulled in at 14:15 he looked like he had been in the wars. A shower and a change of clothes seemed to invigorate him. The rest of the afternoon was spent listening to Reggae music and trying to keep warm. After a delicious Mexican meal that was prepared by a chef who had worked in Sydney it was time for bed. Hopefully a good sleep will help to repair our bodies after what has been the toughest day of the trek.
Thursday 27th October – Dust, Wind and Traffic (Muktinath to Kagbeni – 10km, 2800m)
Even though we shared the same room both of us had a reasonable night’s sleep. We had ordered a late breakfast for 7:45 but neither of us wanted to get out of bed. Eventually hunger overtook us so it was up to the dining hall for more fried eggs and hash browns. I had no sooner sat down when my breakfast arrived. The bonus was that it was served on a hot platter which kept it warm in this frigid environment. We are in no hurry this morning as it is only a 3.5 hour downhill walk to Kagbeni. Just after 9:00 we said farewell to Bob Marley and a few of the people that we had met at the High Camp. I think the walk through the village was the most interesting part of today's travel. There was always something happening like a baby pony following me down the street and old men and women just hanging around. On the outskirts of Muktinath we saw the bus terminal which is situated in a large dustbowl. Judging by the number of buses we saw coming up the mountain I think they have a better frequency than the Rainworth 475. Come on TransLink I’m nearly ready to retire!
From here you follow the road down the steep, barren hillside. You soon get spectacular views down onto Jharkot (3500m) which is perched on a bluff just 20 minutes away. The walk from Jharkot down to Khingar (3400m) is a delightful stroll among meadows, streams, poplar and fruit trees. That is about as good as it gets as from this point onwards we were basically stuck on the dusty, rocky road which you have to share with a steady stream of motorcycles and of course the high frequency bus service. All of these modes of transport kick up a fair amount of dust which forces you to turn your back so that you can protect your eyes and lungs. The other factor we had to contend with was the wind. The flow of air between the peaks of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri creates strong winds that howl up the Kali Gandaki Valley. The breezes blow gently from the north during the early hours of the day, then shift to powerful gusts from the south throughout the late morning and afternoon. We learnt the hard way as you have to make sure you set off early and wear a bandana, scarf and sunglasses to avoid the dust and sand that kicks up at around 11:00. By the time we reached Kagbeni we were covered in dust and I could not wear my peaked cap for fear of losing it.
The porters have us staying at the Nilgiri View Lodge which is at the southern entrance to the town. The rooms are fine but the place is a bit of a rabbit warren. I unpacked some of my gear and wandered back up the road to wait for James who was about twenty minutes behind. We ordered lunch but had to be moved upstairs as a large group of students arrived for a Dal Baht feast. No need to guess who had to wait for their lunch which eventually arrived at 14:00. The only saving grace was that the hot shower I had was the best so far on the trek. I spent the afternoon catching up on the diary as it was just too miserable to go exploring Kagbeni. Dinner was a repeat of lunch however this time it was a Nepali film crew that took precedence. Again we had to wait an hour but it was worth waiting for. James smashed his sizzling Yak steak and I enjoyed my Indian vegetarian meal.
If I ever do this trek again I will take the alternative and more scenic route to Kagbeni. It takes about five hours and starts just prior to Muktinath as you come down from Thorung La.
Despite the punishment my legs received yesterday they feel surprisingly good. After breakfast we hit the trail at 8:30 and thirty minutes later we cruised into Manang. This thriving metropolis is the administrative hub for the region. It is also the last place that you can purchase those forgotten items you need for going over the high pass, Thorung La. We purchased a few items including beanies, sunglasses, batteries and then went to fill our bottles at the safe water station. Our last task was to check-in at the TIMS office. We finally departed Manang at 9:45 which was a little behind schedule. The trail in this section is a steady uphill climb and you gain about 500m in altitude. The weather is again perfect, not a cloud in the sky. It wasn’t long before we stripped down to our shorts and T-shirts. The trail climbs to the small village of Gunsang (3920m). With good accommodation and fine views of Annapurna II and IV, Gunsang makes a lovely tea break which we took at 11:30 at the simple Chullu West Hotel. The hotel is owned by a European woman and her female Nepali partner and they served us up some delicious lemon muffins.
Time to get moving as our plan is to have a late lunch at Yak Kharka which in the end took us another 1.75 hours. The good news was that this section was relatively easy. Just prior to Yak Kharka we were lucky enough to spot a pair of Himalayan deer grazing on a ridge high above us. We would have had a porter revolt if we had kept on walking so we took lunch as planned much to the satisfaction of the boys. It was 14:20 when we set off on our last leg to Letdar. It was another hour to travel and another 200m in altitude which should stand us in good stead for tomorrow. The Hotel Snowland where we wanted to stay had only one room left so I continued down the road. At the Hotel Churi Lattar I secured two rooms for RS200 each and then waited a few minutes for James to arrive.
After depositing our bags in the rooms it was time for another acclimatization walk. We found a bit of a goat track and climbed up for a 100 metres before James headed back down. I continued on for a little longer and had a great view of Chulu West. I met a couple of guys who were going to scale this 6500m peak in a few days time. I’m certainly not in that league. By the time I got back to the hotel it was in shadow and some thick clouds were rolling in. We will have to wait to see what tomorrow brings weather wise. Tonight will be a Samoan shower as there is no hot water available here. It reminds me of the old trekking days. It is pretty cold in the dining room and everybody is crowded around the wood fired stove trying to suck in some heat. Once dinner is over we will be heading to the warmth of our sleeping bags and as a consequence it will be an early night.
Tuesday 25th October – Going Up (Ledtar to High Camp – 7km, 4850m)
It was a cold last night but I did manage to get a good sleep despite it being interrupted by a couple of code yellows. On one of my nocturnal visits at 3:00 the heavens were ablaze in a sea of stars. Another trekkers breakfast that we did not have to hurry due to the short day ahead. We finally moved into gear and hit the trail at 8:15. From Letdar the trail continues to climb along the east bank of the Jarsang Khola, then descends and crosses the stream on a wooden bridge at 4310m. We made a short ascent to a collection of prayer flags which had us both gasping for air and then to the Deurali Teahouse. It is run by an irascible couple who know how to charge for a cup of tea. I couldn’t resist the urge to purchase a couple of Mars Bars and Snickers for our porters. The sugar hit was just what we needed and we strode out on a narrow trail across an exposed slope that climbs to Thorung Phedi (4540m). It is a desolate rock-strewn meadow surrounded by vertical cliffs.
I arrived just prior to 11:00 and decided to slog up the last few hundred metres to the High Camp. My reasoning was to ensure that we secured a room for the night. At over 4600m it really zapped me. On this occasion I found that my legs were burning from the strain and I had to make frequent stops to catch my breath. Nevertheless I did manage to make this arduous climb in 45 minutes. Just prior to reaching the camp I caught up with the slow but resilient trio from Calcutta. I secured our room and then decided to take an early lunch while I waited for the rest of the team to crest the ridge. James arrived an hour later and looked done in. He really was in need of a short rest and some fuel to regain his equilibrium.
Whilst he was taking lunch I hiked up to the view point with my other buddie, Tassie. On the way up I met my Swedish admirer and her new travelling companions from the Netherlands. The height at the view point is 4877m which means that you are close to all the peaks. The landscape is like being on the moon with lots of rocks and maybe a few tufts of grass. Tassie enjoyed the serenity of the occasion as well as the stupendous views. The Annapurna Range looks magnificent as the wind whips the snow from the peaks. The Thorong High Camp View Hotel has a real Tibetan feel right down to the furnishings and the ethnicity of the staff. Once James recovered he also hiked up to the view point and is now ready for the ultimate challenge, the high pass. The rest of the day was spent keeping ourselves warm and preparing for an early start in the morning. The early start also means that before you head off to bed you have to settle your account.
Wednesday 26th October – Going Down (High Camp to Muktinath – 14km, 3800m)
I had a bit of a broken sleep and James reckons he did to. It is a little hard to believe as he was certainly cutting a lot of wood. We both woke up at 4:15 and all we had to do was put on our boots. It was so cold that we slept with our trekking clothes on. I had a cup of tea and we both ordered some boiled eggs and chapatti for the trip ahead. It was still dark when we headed off at 5:00 into the unknown. Thanks to Barry Ingham’s head torch I was able to avoid falling over the edge. It was bitterly cold, so cold in fact that the water in my backpack froze. My cheap gloves let me down big time as they could not stop the cold from freezing my fingers. Since my last trek over the pass in 2012 the trail has been significantly upgraded. Don’t get me wrong, I still struggled in this rarified air to reach the pass at 5416m. Every 20 metres or so I needed to stop and catch my breath. The trick is not to linger and get moving again as quickly as possible. I thought I was moving slowly but I reached the Thorung La pass at 7:15 (2.25hrs) which was pretty good going.
The wide Thorung La with its traditional chorten, prayer flags and stone cairn, is at an elevation of 5416m. The views from the trail, and from the pass itself, are outstanding. You can see the long Great Barrier ridge, which separates the drier, Tibet-like region of Manang from the rest of Nepal, as well as (to the south) the Annapurnas and Gangapurna. Whilst I was waiting for James I took refuge in the small stone building with earthen floors. The owner makes a decent living dispensing piping hot tea for RS200 a small cup. It was just what I needed and after 20 minutes of vigorous rubbing I had restored some feeling to my fingers. I did brave the elements to take a few pictures for posterity. On my last visit my battery froze and I had no proof of my accomplishment. At 8:30 James sauntered in with a tale of woe to be told. By the time he had reached the Yakawa Thorung Ri teashop at 5030m he was feeling nauseous and suffering from a bad headache. The altitude can impact on you at any time. He had two choices either walk back down and return to Pokhara or continue the journey. He chose the latter but decided to use public transport. Even though he was suffering he managed to hire a pony and barter the price down to RS3000. By the time he alighted the pony express his quads were shaking uncontrollably and the poor pony had a bowed back.
When he had recovered sufficiently we took a few more obligatory photos and then started our assault on the tough 1800m descent to Muktinath. As usual I raced ahead and stopped when I found a rare flat spot that was in the sun. It was the perfect place to wolf down our boiled eggs. There were a few people in front of us so I left James to his own world of pain that was to follow. My goal was to reach Muktinath and find some lodging for tonight. The scenery on this side of the pass is bleak, treeless and rocky. This section would have to be the most torturous of the whole circuit. There is a lot of loose gravel which can cause you to slip due to the steep descent. I slipped a few times but was lucky enough not to do any damage.
After the worst of it I stopped for a cup of tea at one of the lodges at Chabarbu. From here it was a brisk one hour walk, still downhill to Muktinath. On the outskirts there is a Hindu Temple that attracts devotees from India and Nepal. It is a strange sight watching elderly Indians gingerly making their way up the steep incline. Some like james hitch a ride on a pony for their pilgrimage to this sacred temple. I had sent the boys ahead to find us a room and I met them just as I entered Muktinath. They have chosen the Bob Marley Hotel, yes Bob Marley. There was only one room left and on inspection I thought it would suit us perfectly.
The porters brought our bags in and even though it was only 12:30 I headed straight to the shower room. It was just hot enough to wash away two days worth of grime and sweat. I then took a seat on the balcony where I would be in a good position to spot James trudging up the dusty road. Lunch came and went and after an hour there was still no sign of him. Tika went for a walk to the outskirts of the village but there was no sign of him. I was starting to get worried so I asked a trekker who had just arrived if he had seen a large man wearing black. To my relief he replied in the affirmative and said he was about 30 minutes away. Tika went out to meet him and told him the name of our hotel. When he pulled in at 14:15 he looked like he had been in the wars. A shower and a change of clothes seemed to invigorate him. The rest of the afternoon was spent listening to Reggae music and trying to keep warm. After a delicious Mexican meal that was prepared by a chef who had worked in Sydney it was time for bed. Hopefully a good sleep will help to repair our bodies after what has been the toughest day of the trek.
Thursday 27th October – Dust, Wind and Traffic (Muktinath to Kagbeni – 10km, 2800m)
Even though we shared the same room both of us had a reasonable night’s sleep. We had ordered a late breakfast for 7:45 but neither of us wanted to get out of bed. Eventually hunger overtook us so it was up to the dining hall for more fried eggs and hash browns. I had no sooner sat down when my breakfast arrived. The bonus was that it was served on a hot platter which kept it warm in this frigid environment. We are in no hurry this morning as it is only a 3.5 hour downhill walk to Kagbeni. Just after 9:00 we said farewell to Bob Marley and a few of the people that we had met at the High Camp. I think the walk through the village was the most interesting part of today's travel. There was always something happening like a baby pony following me down the street and old men and women just hanging around. On the outskirts of Muktinath we saw the bus terminal which is situated in a large dustbowl. Judging by the number of buses we saw coming up the mountain I think they have a better frequency than the Rainworth 475. Come on TransLink I’m nearly ready to retire!
From here you follow the road down the steep, barren hillside. You soon get spectacular views down onto Jharkot (3500m) which is perched on a bluff just 20 minutes away. The walk from Jharkot down to Khingar (3400m) is a delightful stroll among meadows, streams, poplar and fruit trees. That is about as good as it gets as from this point onwards we were basically stuck on the dusty, rocky road which you have to share with a steady stream of motorcycles and of course the high frequency bus service. All of these modes of transport kick up a fair amount of dust which forces you to turn your back so that you can protect your eyes and lungs. The other factor we had to contend with was the wind. The flow of air between the peaks of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri creates strong winds that howl up the Kali Gandaki Valley. The breezes blow gently from the north during the early hours of the day, then shift to powerful gusts from the south throughout the late morning and afternoon. We learnt the hard way as you have to make sure you set off early and wear a bandana, scarf and sunglasses to avoid the dust and sand that kicks up at around 11:00. By the time we reached Kagbeni we were covered in dust and I could not wear my peaked cap for fear of losing it.
The porters have us staying at the Nilgiri View Lodge which is at the southern entrance to the town. The rooms are fine but the place is a bit of a rabbit warren. I unpacked some of my gear and wandered back up the road to wait for James who was about twenty minutes behind. We ordered lunch but had to be moved upstairs as a large group of students arrived for a Dal Baht feast. No need to guess who had to wait for their lunch which eventually arrived at 14:00. The only saving grace was that the hot shower I had was the best so far on the trek. I spent the afternoon catching up on the diary as it was just too miserable to go exploring Kagbeni. Dinner was a repeat of lunch however this time it was a Nepali film crew that took precedence. Again we had to wait an hour but it was worth waiting for. James smashed his sizzling Yak steak and I enjoyed my Indian vegetarian meal.
If I ever do this trek again I will take the alternative and more scenic route to Kagbeni. It takes about five hours and starts just prior to Muktinath as you come down from Thorung La.
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