Friday 28th October – She’ll Be Apples (Kagbeni to Marpha – 15km, 2670m)
During the night I had an epiphany as I remembered that I inadvertently had left my good wet weather trousers at the Bob Marley Hotel. I can kiss them goodbye and perhaps they will go up in smoke. The Nepali film crew was a rowdy bunch and unfortunately they were placed next to James and me. When they get together as a group they get boisterous and try to outdo each other. This morning the noise started at 5:00 and did not let up. We wanted an early start from Kagbeni to avoid the winds that whistle up the valley after 11:00 but that was a no go. After ordering breakfast for 7:00 it did not arrive until 7:45. I guess it is three strikes and you’re out. We scoffed down what was a good breakfast and managed to hit the trail just after 8:00.
From Kagbeni the trail quickly joins the road from Muktinath and continues through desert scenery to Chhancha Lhumba, better known as Eklai Bhatti (‘alone hotel’). A few groups stopped here for a refreshment break but we continued on towards Jomson. We did have some great views of Nilgiri another of the big Himalayan peaks. A little past the village there was an air of festivity as it turned out that the road was blocked by an excavator doing repair work to the road. The Nepali’s were having a great time just clowning around and of course taking selfies. The good news for us was that it meant less dust at least for a short time. One other thing I did notice was that the pillion passenger on just about every motorcycle was engrossed in taking selfies on their mobile phones. The trail continued to follow the road through the stony river valley, eventually short-cutting along the riverbed to reach the entrance to Jomsom. It wasn’t much of a shortcut as James wrenched his knee on the loose stones.
Straddling the Kali Gandaki, Jomsom (2760m), or more correctly Dzongsam (New Fort), is the region’s administrative headquarters, home to bureaucrats, military personnel, merchants and jeep owners. It’s a scruffy, fairly charmless place, mainly of interest to those who need to catch an early morning flight or change some money. Since my last visit in 2010 it has degenerated further and I’m glad we decided not to stay here. Nevertheless we needed to have our TIMS permit checked and also James needed to give his knee a rest. We feasted on a stale chocolate croissant and I had a cup of tea. By the time we exited Jomson at 11:30 the dreaded wind was blowing its guts out.
Since my last trek the trail is now completely different as a result of the road building and quarrying of the river gravel. Every time a vehicle passed us and there were plenty of them we were engulfed in a cloud of dust. After 45 minutes I decided to take an alternative route up a foot trail detours right to Syang (2800m), where the interesting and picturesque old town as well as a few monasteries. It was definitely worth the effort and the views were outstanding. At the southern end of Syang, I could see James and the porters swallowing dust on the road below. After descending I rejoined the road, passed James and the porters and followed it all the way to Marpha. Tika caught up with me and we crossed the Pankya Khola to enter at the northern end of town.
Marpha is a large and well-maintained Thakali village and has long been a favourite amongst trekkers. It has kept its traditional narrow paved alleys and passageways and an extensive drainage system flows under the flagstone-paved street. Fortunately the road bypasses Marpha and has not destroyed the atmosphere of the town. Impressive kanis mark both ends of town.
Our job was to find some accommodation and the first few places we tried were all full. We backtracked and eventually settled on the Sunrise Hotel which had two double rooms for RS200 each. After settling in we had a late lunch and tried to catch up on our emails and administrative tasks. The Wi-Fi is a bit slow but I did manage to logon and send a few emails. I delayed making a Skype call to Alice as I know she does not like being interrupted when Family Feud is on. Unfortunately when I did call she was just about to enter the Lyric Theatre with her good friend Carina to watch a performance of Singing in the Rain. How silly of me to forget! I had a few dirty clothes and for RS200 a local lady hand washed my clothes for me. Unfortunately, the sun has disappeared and they are still a bit damp. Hopefully they will dry a little more overnight but given how cold it is that is wishful thinking. I finished the night off with an alcoholic drink which was Marpha’s famous apple brandy.
Saturday 29th October – Road Less Travelled (Marpha to Kalopani – 19km, 2535m)
Well my clothes are dry and we have demolished our omelets for breakfast so we are nearly to depart almost. Prior to hitting the trail, oops I meant road I had to purchase an item from the lady who washed my clothes yesterday. In the end I ended up with a hand platted Tibetan belt for RS250. Our next stop was the safe water station where we refilled our plastic bottles before heading out of Marpha at 8:15. The road continues south for 90 minutes directly to Tukuche but to the chagrin of our porters we took the alternative east-bank trail via Chhairo and Chimang. I had to explain to them that if we wanted to walk the dusty road we would have taken the bus. This way we avoided the road traffic and get great views of Dhaulagiri en route. Across the bridge on the east side of the river, Chhairo is a Tibetan refugee settlement of around 40 houses. This was definitely the best option as we walked past babbling brooks, apple orchards and pine forest and above all no dust.
I wanted to visit the traditional village of Chimang and at the turn off I said farewell to James whom I will catch up with in Tukuche. I followed the signs left to Chimang, climbed to a meadow and a small waterfall and continued uphill, curving around fields of apples and corn to Chimang (2870m) which is perched on a ridge. The little-visited village offers some of the best views you’ll get of Dhaulagiri and is worth some exploring. Unfortunately for me there was some cloud cover which inhibited the view. It was time to descend via a little used road on the far side of the ridge to the river far below. After crossing a bridge I rejoined the main road into Tukuche. There was a trail that meandered above the road but it was far easier to just stay on the road and swallow a little dust.
James was waiting for me at a small café on the outskirts of the village. Fortunately he had been waiting for only 20 minutes which gave me time for a quick cup of tea. After exiting Tukuche we avoided the road by taking short cuts across the riverside gravel bars. It was a pity when we had to head back on the road and tussle with the motorcycles, buses and above all the wind which has been blowing straight into our faces since 10:00. We arrived Larjung just before midday and decided to take lunch of noodle soup. Our plan was to stay the night here but James is feeling good so we will kick onto Kalopani.
Just prior to 13:00 we departed from Larjung and joined the road as it swung into the wide mouth of the Ghatta Khola. The road bridge is a long distance upstream so we decided to save some time by cutting straight across the river. There were no temporary bridges so we had to remove our boots and ford the fast flowing but shallow river. James with his dodgy ankles gave a good impression of a gypsy tap as he tried to maintain his footing on the submerged rocks. The trail eventually crosses the Kali Gandaki on a high suspension bridge and climbs through fir, juniper and cypress trees to descend to Kokhethati. It then continues south to Dhampu, crossing the Kali Gandaki to arrive in Kalopani. I would have to say that this section is one of the more pleasurable to trek on. The only downside today has been the wind and the cloud that has obscured the high peaks. On the last section there was a little sprinkle of rain so we played it safe and pulled out our ponchos.
Around 15:00 we arrived at Kalopani and headed straight for the upmarket See You Lodge where I had stayed in 2010. There are a couple of groups staying tonight so we were lucky enough to snag a decent room each that came with an attached bathroom. I don’t know what the rate is but the cost will be worth it just to enjoy the privacy of my own toilet. I wasted no time in having a hot solar shower and was pleasantly surprised to find a folded towel on my bed. Speaking of beds I am looking forward to relaxing in my ¾ double bed tonight. We have both ordered the sizzling Yak steaks for dinner and I may just wash that down with an apple brandy.
Sunday 30th October – GoCard not Accepted (Kalopani to Tatopani – 30km, 1200m)
We ordered breakfast for 7:00 and despite the large group who were in front of us it was served in a timely manner. They were probably the best fried eggs we have had so far on this trip. James had to take care of a little business so I went to the rooftop and took some pictures of Dhaulagiri which today is brilliant in the clear blue sky. By 8:15 we were strolling out of Kalopani and heading into the village of Lete which is basically next. It is a little like Coolangatta and Tweed Heads but on a significantly smaller scale. The only high rises here are the peaks. As a side note if you trek in this area and have the time it would be worth spending an extra night at Kalopani and then do a side trip to Titi Lake where you will get fantastic views of Nilgiri and Dhaulagiri Icefall.
There is an option to travel on a trail between Kalopani and Ghasa but that meant walking back to access it. We decided to take the road option as James’ knee is giving him curry. After departing Lete we had a small respite from the road by taking a trail on a grassy knoll. The problem was that the trail at the end of the knoll was in a state of disrepair due to a landside. The steep descent down to the road was quite dangerous and any slip would have resulted in a serious injury. After crossing a suspension bridge it was back to the road all the way to Ghasa. It was only for an hour and thankfully there was a lull in the traffic. We did see a small troop of Grey Langur Monkeys that briefly entertained us with their antics. I arrived Ghasa at 10:15 and checked-in at the TIMS post and then waited for James whose knee is really playing up.
Earlier on we made the decision for him and the two porters to catch the bus for the 18km trip to Ghasa but first we had to get to the bus park. Whilst I checked James’ TIMS card in, I sent him scurrying downhill for the bus. There were a couple of girls in front of him but he put on a rare burst of speed and passed them. We didn’t want to miss out on a seat on the bus. Meanwhile up at the bus park I had purchased three tickets (RS1080), the Go-Card was no use here as it is a cash only business. James took the best seat on the bus which is the middle of the back seat. By all reports it was an unpleasant journey with lots of bumps, jolts and jam packed with Nepali passengers.
Meanwhile I said farewell and at 10:30 started walking down the road. Fifteen minutes later just south of the Eagle’s Nest Guest House I crossed a suspension footbridge and followed the old mule caravan trail down the eastern side of the valley. The mule track climbs the rocky cliffside to a ridge and then a long descent on steps past a few neglected teahouses to a bridge at Kopchepani. It was only 11:45 so I thought I would continue for another 45 minutes before taking a break for lunch. The only problem with this idea was there were no more villages in this section, just isolated farmhouses with the obligatory water buffalo. I ended up stopping under a shady tree and had a half of a granola bar and most of my water. During my 25 minute break I did not see a solitary person, oh what bliss.
This section takes a little longer but you are rewarded with great views, strands of bamboo, waterfalls and the odd trekker. The real bonus is that you are not getting covered in dust from the road traffic. After my break I continued down the east bank from Kopchepani to Garpar. It was nearly 14:00 and this little village had a small restaurant and a sign offering freshly squeezed orange juice. I couldn’t resist and ordered some vegetable noodle soup, litre of water and the O.J (RS390). I met up with a young Swiss couple and we continued trekking down the east bank. I could see the village of Dana on the opposite bank but the trail continued further down. Eventually I left the trail and bid the Swiss farewell. From where I crossed over it was only a 25 minute walk into Tatopani. It is definitely the best way if you are going to walk this section.
The good thing about James catching the bus is that he already has booked my room with attached bathroom and broken toilet seat. It seems every western toilet in Nepal has a broken seat. I suppose that’s what happens when you are used to squatting. As I walked into Tatopani at 15:30 I could see James waiting for me outside the Himalayan Hotel. After a short rest I was ready to join James for a trip to Tatopani’s (it means hot water) famous hot springs. There was already a big crowd of westerners and Nepali luxuriating in the water but James and I had no hesitation in parting with RS150 ($1.88) for the entrance fee. We found a vacant section and then lowered ourselves slowly into the piping hot water. It was pure bliss. You can purchase a bottle of beer, no glass and sip it while sitting in the water. The thought of a beer in this environment was very appealing however I stayed strong to my commitment in not having a beer or a shave until reaching Pokhara. It was nearly 18:00 when we emerged from the pool with skin the texture of old prunes.
Back at the hotel we were so relaxed that we had to be roused for dinner. At this altitude the nights are a lot warmer so it was a real pleasure to go down to the dining room clothed in shorts and a tee-shirt. There are plenty of items on the menu to choose from but I settled on a bean and cheese burrito and pizza for James. With all that exercise today both of us were ready for yet another early night.
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