Up in the air

Thursday 3rd November – Happy Anniversary (Poon Hill, Ghorepani to Tadapani – 15km, 2710m)

This morning I was awake at 4:35 to determine if it is worth the effort of ascending to Poon Hill (3210m) for sunrise. A quick look out the window confirmed it was another beautiful day and that an early morning stroll was in order. James has begged off on accompanying me as after a bad night he is not feeling too great. Tika offered to go with me but I told him to go back to bed. Judging by the smile on his face he was relieved that he could return to the land of nod. I started off at 5:00 and after faltering early, soon settled into a nice rhythm and made it to the top in a very credible 35 mins. The spectacular panorama stretches from Dhaulagiri I (8167m) and Tukuche (6920m) to Nilgiri (6940m), Annapurna South, Annapurna I (8091m), Hiunchuli (6441m) and Tarke Kang (7193m). Watching the sun rise over the unobstructed Himalaya is a special moment but due to the other 100 plus people at the pass there is not much serenity. There was a bit of a cool breeze and by 6:30 I’d had enough and headed back down to the lodge for breakfast.

I mucked around a bit and did not get away until 8:45. Tika and I took off like startled gazelles and headed east from Ghorepani in an effort to catch James who had left much earlier. We caught up at a chautaara (resting place for porters) on a grassy knoll that offered good mountain views similar to those from Poon Hill, including a view of Machhapuchhare and a panorama all the way south to the plains of India. We kept climbing past a teahouse and meandered along the ridge in pine and rhododendron forests to a crest at 3210m. The descent on the north side of the ridge is along a slippery, muddy trail interlaced with tree roots to Deorali (3090m).

A ridge hides the mountains as the trail makes a steep, sometimes treacherous descent on a narrow path alongside the stream. The stream has some potential swimming pools alongside the trail and finally becomes a series of waterfalls over a jumble of boulders and logs that are washed down when this harmless-looking stream runs amok during the monsoon rains. The descent becomes easier as the route reaches Banthanti (2606m) which is in the shadow of a huge rock face. After crossing to the north side of the stream the trail starts climbing, leaving the moist, high mountain forests and entering a field of cane, making some ups and downs to a ridge top at 2700m, offering great views over the gorge to Ulleri. A rocky trail descends steeply to the Bhurungdi Khola before climbing again dishearteningly through steep forests for a further 20 minutes to Tadapani (2710m). The village is a jumble of hotels and souvenir stands. Tadapani means ‘far water’ and the water supply is a long distance below the village. The views of Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhare are spectacular from here, especially at sunset and from the Shiva Temple just above the village.

Business is brisk in Tadapani today as Tika and I had to try half a dozen lodges before we found two rooms at the Panorama Lodge. As James isn’t well he is getting the double room whilst I have the pleasure of sleeping in a matchbox next to the toilet. After storing the bags I walked downhill and caught up with James who has doggedly made his way up. He looked relieved when he finally laid his carcass on the extra thick mattress. After a quick bite to eat he retired to his room for a quick break. Meanwhile I rang Alice and caught up for a chat and a long distance celebration of our 15th wedding anniversary. Time flies when you are in love and having fun. I felt well and truly alive after that call. The rest of the afternoon we spent relaxing and enjoying the great views. As the sun prepared to set we could see from our eagles nest position the smoke rising from the chimneys of the other lodges. Our wood fired stove is chugging along nicely and the dining room is real toasty.

Friday 4th November – Another Easy Day (Tadapani to Ghandruk – 9km, 1990m)

Well tonight will be our last night on the trail but first we have a reasonably easy mostly downhill trek to Ghandruk. After a leisurely breakfast we hit the trail which descends steeply from the Himalaya Tourist Guest House a little after 8:30. The first section took us through forests where we were fortunate to spot a wood-pecker. For over two hours we enjoyed the serenity of the forest and the birdlife. There were a couple of big groups heading up but we had to concentrate on where we placed our feet on the slippery shale. In some of the steeper sections there was a stream that cascaded down the mountainside. Some of the deeper holes looked good enough to swim in.

We eventually emerged at a clearing with two hotels known as Baise Kharka (Buffalo Pasture). There are two trails from here and we took the right-hand trail making a short, steep descent among rocks to a stream crossing which then leads out on a ridge towards Ghandruk. It reaches the top of Ghandruk and descends on stone steps into the maze of the village itself. All up I think we only walked for 2.5 hours and neither of us broke into a sweat. Our digs tonight are at the Trekkers Inn and because we were so early they had no rooms ready.

After lunch I decided on a stroll and donned my best footwear a pair of thongs to explore Ghandruk. It is wonderfully easy to get lost in the network of narrow alleyways. The dozen or so lodges are scattered throughout the village and are quite far apart, both in distance and elevation. There are little signboards at most trail junctions directing you to various hotels that are ‘1 minute away’. The times are very optimistic but time is what I had plenty of. There is not one but two museums dueling for your attention. Best is the Gurung Traditional Museum (admission Rs 75) which is an Aladdin’s Cave of hidden treasures. It is down a small alley off the main path. Highlights include a shield made from elephant skin and a bow string made from nettle fibre. The other museum (which has the same name and admission fee) is also worth a visit and has a restaurant offering a variety of dishes unique to this region. I took a shortcut back to my lodge through a German Bakery but did not see any pastries.

There is still plenty of sunlight but the lodge is now in shadow so I decided to take a quick shower before the solar hot water lost its steam.

Saturday 5th November – Day 20 the Last Day (Ghandruk, Naya Pul to Pokhara – 14km, 990m)

As we left town the trail descended to a stream and water-driven mill. A little further on there is an entrance arch where the trail to Landruk starts downhill on a steep stone staircase. The main trail to Birethanti which we are taking leads south from here, dropping at first on a staircase, then traversing high above the river on a wide stone-paved trail. There is a stream to cross at Chane (1690m) and you then continue to Kimche (1640m), where there are a few teashops and restaurants. This village is now quite ugly as the road from Naya Pul now finishes here. It also means it is a hub for buses and jeeps as villagers and trekkers can save a few hours by not having to walk uphill or downhill.

We kept following the ridge downhill to join the Modi Khola at Syauli Bazaar (1140m). The hotels and cafes here suddenly seem quite cosmopolitan. From here on the road becomes the trail. For the next 90 minutes the walking is relatively flat, which after the last 20 days seems distinctly weird. The road follows the river valley through a lovely birch forest and extensive rice terraces to Chimrong and then Lamakhet. It’s another 20 minutes to Birethanti (1000m). The last stretch of dirt road is dusty, rough and rocky, and follows the Modi Khola. We could have caught a taxi from Birethanti to Pokhara for Rs2000 but decided that we would finish the trek the way we started, on our own two legs. It’s a 30-minute walk on the rough road to Naya Pul, where it is a short climb to the road. Taxis and buses to Pokhara are available at Naya Pul well into the night. At Naya Pul the taxis were the same price but we ended up negotiating a price of Rs2500for an old worn out van that could not pull the skin off a rice custard. We wanted the extra room for a young Austrian backpacker, Lilly that we had met a few times on the trail.

It is only 40km to Pokhara but the road in places is so severely potholed that it took nearly two hours to reach the hotel. We may have been a little rude but we quickly paid our porters and headed straight to our room for a hot shower. I must say however that Tika and Krishna despite their inexperience have been a pleasure to travel with. Tika is the one with the get up and go which will make him an excellent porter/guide in the years to come. If anyone is travelling to Nepal I would be happy to give you his contact details.

In short order this afternoon I did manage to have a close shave for Rs200 ($2.50) from an excellent Nepalese barber. It feels good to have a fuzz free face once again. There was also a heap of laundry (Rs150 per kilo) that needed attending to and between us there was 6.5kg of soiled garments. At 5:30 we arrived at the Jiva Spa where we had a 90 minute Swedish massage (Rs2700) to rejuvenate our tired limbs. When the masseuse reached my calves I nearly went through the ceiling. By the end of the 90 minutes I thought that I had been twelve rounds with Rocky Balboa. To finish off our last day of trekking we paid a visit to the Everest Steakhouse for some medium rare eye fillet steak and my first beer.

Sunday 6th November - Perfect Paragliding

Another beautiful day and we do not have to hike anywhere. After paying Shekhar about Rs17000 for the balance of our porter fees and our airline tickets to Kathmandu we needed to take another trip to the ATM for some cash. There is not much point putting anything on the credit card as there is usually a surcharge of 3.5% to 5%. The weather is so perfect that I couldn’t miss the opportunity to go paragliding once again. As a consequence Shekhar has lined up a small company who will pick me up from the hotel at midday.

I arrived back early and to my surprise the paragliding agent was waiting for me. A quick change of clothes and I was whisked off to the office to sign my life away. The cost for a thirty minute flight is Rs9000 ($112) which includes photographs and a short video. Our transport arrived at the Sarangot launch pad about 12:30 and it wasn’t long before my pilot, Rocky from Nepal had me geared up. I think that our timing was perfect as there were less tandem paragliders than normal taking advantage of Pokhara’s great thermals. Our launch was just about perfect and I was soon soaring high above Sarangot. The views of the Himalayan range were of course breathtaking but the patchwork of rice paddies was also great. Rocky gave me a real panoramic flight and took me across the ridge line where I had some great views of the Seti River and new Pokhara. On previous flights the pilots had stuck to the same areas around Sarangot so this was a new experience. All too soon the flight was over as we touched ground on the shoreline of Phewa Lake. After checking his computer Rocky informed me that we had reached an altitude of 1619m and had been airborne for 33 minutes. After picking up my photographs it was back to the hotel and a late lunch with James.

James has been unwell for the last couple of days but he is determined to get a little food down. We settled on an old sandwich bar which served up a tasty ham and cheese roll and a lassi. Afterwards we strolled along the main drag before I left James to attend a 90 minute Yoga class. The female instructor was from Austria and she was quite passionate. The style of yoga is very similar to what I have been doing at the South Bank gym but the session was longer. I managed to accomplish most of the stretches but had to take a couple of short breaks. With the class over and my body stretched to the limits I headed back to the hotel to check up on James. He is still not great but I did manage to coax him out to dinner. The Concerto Restaurant is and old favourite of mine as I enjoyed a couple of meals there previously with Alice. They lived up to expectations and our roast chicken and oven roasted beef were delicious. It was so good that we will be definitely back for more.

Monday 7th November – Time for some UltraLight Flying

At 6:15 I jumped out of bed and hurriedly dressed as I am being picked up soon for my 7:00 appointment with an UltraLight open cockpit flight. I must be coming an adrenalin junkie or a more likely explanation is that I enjoy spending the kid’s inheritance. Seriously, with the great early morning weather, no clouds and fabulous views it was a one off opportunity to experience something different. The cost of a 30 minute flight with a photo and video package is an expensive Rs 21200 ($265).

It didn’t take long to gear me up and make sure that I was nice and warm. I didn’t put on any gloves because I wanted to keep my hands free for taking photographs. An Ultralight (Microlight) is a two-seated small aircraft with powered engine designed to carry no more than two people (pilot and passenger), with a maximum fuel capacity of 90 liters and a total weight of less than 600kg, including fuel and persons onboard. It has an imposed speed limit of less than 130 km/hr. Average speeds are about 80 km/hr. I was really impressed by the speed and the ease of the lift off. My package is called the Glory of Mt. Fishtail and after ten minutes flying we were tantalizing close to this sacred mountain as well as the Annapurnas. I could rave on for ages about how great this flight was but suffice to say it would have been great to book the sixty minute package. Our flight path also took us over Pokhara, Sarangot, Phewa Lake, Peace Pagoda and Devi Falls. All too soon my time was up and we coasted in for an ultra-smooth landing. Hopefully the photos will be a permanent reminder of a great adventure activity.

I was back at the hotel by 8:15 and ready for a decent breakfast. Unfortunately, James is still a bit squeamish and has decided to forego breakfast. After refueling the body I was off on another adventure, this time with Shekhar. I was his pillion passenger on the back of his motorcycle for a trip into the old part of Pokhara where all the residents shop and conduct their business. It is an adventure due to the number of buses, trucks, motorcycles and other mechanized implements of destruction. Our first stop was the bank and I accompanied Shekhar inside. I was amazed by the length of the queues of ordinary citizens who were trying to conduct a transaction. The only time I see queues like this at home is when Aldi have a good sale on or the Boxing Day sales. The Nepalese just wait patiently for their turn to come around. This scene was repeated at other banks around the town. Shekhar seemed to know someone one just about every corner. After finding a store for me where I purchased a knick knack for myself we headed off back to Lakeside and escaped the hustle and bustle of the big smoke. It was certainly a different two hour excursion.

After a late lunch James and I headed off to the Pokhara Immigration Office where we will try and extend our visas for another 15 days. We had completed the necessary documentation on-line but forgot to print a copy of our passports and current visa page. The office closed at 15:00 and we only had 10 minutes to comply with this regulation. Fortunately just around the corner from the office there is a couple of agencies who specialize in filling out the on-line application and printing the necessary documentation. We only the needed the photocopy which set us back a huge Rs20 (25cents). It only took us five minutes so we had a few minutes to spare before closing time. The visa extension costs Rs3200 ($40) which is a cheaper option than a 90 day visa which now costs $US100. Next time we will use the services of the agencies and remove the hassle of doing it ourselves.

With our administrative tasks over we took a 2km walk along the lake front back to our hotel. Another massage was in order so we organized one through Shekhar at the Tranquility Spa. We thought that a pickup had been arranged but I suspect that the reduction in price that we negotiated negated our free ride. In the end we had a ten minute walk to the spa which was okay but not as well laid out as the Jiva Spa. We both had the one hour Swedish massage which for me was excellent. James thought his was a little ordinary. It was around 18:30 and we did not feel like going back to the hotel prior to dinner. We were not flush with cash so on a whim we chose a cheap option called the Machhapuchhre Kitchen. I am a believer in the six degrees of separation as when we sat down at our table we spotted our Austrian friend Lilly who was dining alone. She joined us and within a few minutes our German friend Helge took a smoking table outside. We went out and said hello and had a couple of hugs before he introduced us to his Australian friend Nic. After dinner they joined us at the table and then it got really weird. It turns out that Nic lives in Annie Street at Milton, went to Milton State School and worked at the local IGA and Palace cinemas. He is about 22 and has embarked on a motorcycle adventure that started in Brisbane and finished for the interim in Nepal due to mechanical issues. A couple of Everest beers and we all said goodnight.